Do-it-yourself eagle repair binoculars

The usefulness of binoculars is hard to overestimate. Its presence or absence can become critically important for people in such professions as rescuers and researchers. Also, hunters and tourists cannot do without it. Binoculars will surely serve for more than one year. You just need to choose the right one.

Signs of misalignment of binoculars - the image doubles, eyes get tired. This may also be because the exit pupils are not collinear. Fatigue of vision is explained by the fact that with small values ​​of bifurcations, a person instinctively tries to compensate for this phenomenon. The images are aligned due to the natural binocular vision device. Getting rid of this phenomenon is sometimes even more difficult than repairing binoculars with your own hands.

To set up binoculars yourself, there are many simple techniques that do not require specific knowledge, skills, devices and laboratory conditions. They consist in installation and debugging using the adjusting screws of the horizontal (from the horizon) and vertical (from the supports) of the planes.

Only these methods do not give the required accuracy. Due to the physiological characteristics of human vision, it is not possible to accurately reduce the planes.

One of the most accurate methods is alignment using a distant, powerful point light source.

This process is described in full step by step below.

The first step is to determine what shape the exit pupils are. Adjustment should be made on that part, the exit pupil of which has a shape other than round or its prism is asymmetrical. If no visible faults are found, the binoculars are relatively usable. The setting is done sequentially. You can start with either half.

Now you need to check the tuned device, aiming at other objects. If there are no problems with the image, you need to fix the settings. To do this, fix the screws with a little super glue or quick-drying varnish. And finally, glue the guide in place.

In bright light, the exit pupils are unevenly lit. Holding the binoculars at a distance of 5 ... 8 cm from the eyes, and directing the eyepieces to the sky, you can see an interesting optical effect: a light circle with darkening in the middle. By exploiting this phenomenon, it is possible to precisely match the views of the subject without defocusing.

You just need to point the binoculars at a bright light source and combine the bifurcated view using the adjusting screws. Moreover, the eyes do not get tired if you focus on the circle, and not on the object.

Do-it-yourself binocular repairs can be performed even if the binoculars are not equipped with adjusting screws. You can, for example, release (tighten) the threaded eyepiece ring by turning the adjustment dial (if any). You can also install tube spacers. You can control the results in the same way as described above.

In the previous article "Choosing and Adjusting Binoculars" I told you how to choose the right binoculars when buying and how to customize it for yourself. Now the time has come to understand the problem when the image is doubled during observation, which leads to rapid eye fatigue and even headaches.

If, after purchasing the binoculars, you come across these signs, then it is not adjusted and needs careful adjustment. Fortunately, this can be done at home, making the procedure much easier.

Let's see why such problems arise.

The binoculars consist of two identical halves, each of which must be precisely directed to the object of observation, that is, the optical axes of the tubes must be necessarily parallel. If the binoculars are incorrectly adjusted (misaligned), your eyes will try to compensate for the double image, which leads to excessive eye strain.

Before adjusting the optical system of the binoculars, correctly set the interpupillary distance, as described in the previous article, and aim it at any sharp horizontal distant object (wire, roof ridge). Then set the diopter adjustment ring at the right eyepiece to zero.

While continuing to look through the eyepieces, slowly move the binoculars away from you. In this case, the image should not be doubled. From the first try, you may not see the difference, because the eyes tend to automatically compensate for the split. Plus, binoculars with good alignment will only show split for a short time. Therefore, check your binoculars several times.

In my binoculars, I immediately noticed a split, as I could not immediately count the stretched cable strands on the wall of a distant building. If you also see that the image is noticeably doubled, either asymmetrically vertically and horizontally, or the left image is rotated at an angle relative to the right, your binoculars definitely need to be adjusted.

Adjusting binoculars with Roof or Porro prisms

It is worth remembering that adjustment at home is possible only for those binoculars that have access to the adjustment screws. They can be used to correct the prismatic units of binoculars (usually of the Porro type).

In my case, the screws were hidden under the rubber pads, so I had to carefully peel off their edges.

Binoculars with a Roof prism, as well as nitrogen-filled devices should be adjusted only with the help of special equipment. It is quite difficult to adjust binoculars with variable magnification. Their optical elements have a large degree of mobility, therefore, distortions in their relative position may occur, which can lead to image distortion when the magnification is changed. If you have these types of binoculars, try replacing them at a store or contact a specialist workshop.

If the image is double, you need to align the binoculars

To carry out this procedure yourself, follow the steps outlined below:

1. Check how tightly and completely the objective tubes are screwed into the instrument body. Even the smallest backlash greatly affects the image quality.

2. Make sure the eyepiece assemblies are not skewed.

3. If these factors are present, eliminate them.

4. The most convenient is the setting for ground objects in the daytime. To do this, select an object with a regular structure, located at least 100 meters. This can be a fence, brickwork, or a surface with large tiles.

5. Fix the binoculars in a fixed position using a tripod or support (window sill).

6. Set the interpupillary distance, then point the binoculars at the selected object and focus the image.

7. Relax your eyes as much as possible and look at the eyepieces, not through binoculars. Alternately closing your eyes, follow the subject's image, which should shift slightly towards the closed eye.

8. Move your eyes 5 cm away from the eyepieces. If the horizontal lines on the object diverge vertically, your binoculars are misaligned.

9. For subsequent adjustments, you must have access to the adjusting screws, which on Porro instruments are usually hidden under the rubber cover of the case (as shown in the above photos).

10. Each pipe usually has a pair of these screws. The first one adjusts the eyepiece prism, and the second one adjusts the objective one. Therefore, the first one should be looked for on top of the prismatic unit of binoculars, near the eyepiece assembly, and the second one - on the inner side of the unit, closer to the lens.

Carefully bend the rubber cover with a "watch" screwdriver and, without applying excessive force, try to turn the screw. At the factory, they are filled with varnish, so effort is necessary, but the slot is very small. Don't cut it off!

11. Remember! The image moves in the direction the screw is rotating. So when adjusting the right optical channel, turning the screw inward (clockwise), the image will move down from right to left. By unscrewing the screw (counterclockwise) you will move the image up from left to right.

12. Turning the screw on the left optical channel clockwise will shift the object image from left to down and to the right, and counterclockwise - from right to up and to the left.

13. As you can see, the movement of the image in the field of view of the optical channels is done diagonally. In this case, clockwise rotation of the screws shifts it to the center of the field of view, and rotating it counterclockwise we move it away from the center.

Scheme of moving the image of an object in optical channels, depending on the screws used.

14. Minor misalignment is usually corrected by adjusting one pair of screws. In this case, small turns should not be more than 1/5 of a screw turn, and after each adjustment, a visual assessment of the result is necessary, as described above.

A common case of horizontal misalignment requires adjustment of only the first (ocular) pair of screws. By turning slightly clockwise, you seem to push the images of the object down and towards each other. You should end up with perfect vertical alignment.

It should be remembered that a slight displacement of the object's image to the left when closing the left eye, and also to the right when closing the right eye is quite normal. The main thing is to make sure that the images do not move in the opposite direction, which will cause a headache.

Night alignment of binoculars

Having achieved the symmetry of the image in the left and right optical channels, it is necessary to carry out a similar alignment at night.

In this case, you need to select a point light source located at a distance of several kilometers as an object for observation. It can be a lantern, a lamp, or an "artificial star". As the latter, you can use a lamp or a bright LED, wrapped in foil, with a small hole made by a needle.

You can use bright planets and stars, but due to the constant movement of the celestial sphere, this option is less convenient.

The binoculars are adjusted in the same way as during the daytime, although one rather original technique can be applied. To do this, you need to catch a bright star and focus the image on it. Then, using the diopter adjustment ring, defocus the right optical channel as much as possible, in which the star will take the form of a small disk. Using the adjusting screws, carefully move the focused image of the left eyepiece to the center of this dial. Thus, the alignment is excellent!

Be sure, after completing the adjustment, fix the position of all screws. To do this, just drip on them with nail polish or paint.

Useful Tips

Aligning binoculars is quite tiring on your eyes, so take occasional breaks to let them rest.

Perfect alignment will allow observation for a long time without discomfort.

The most accurate optics test is performed when observing stars in the night sky.

1. First look at the moon, whether any bright planet. Chromatism will probably be visible along the edge of its disk. Moreover, the smaller it is, the clearer you will see the image through binoculars.

2. Then find a bright star and look in turn with one eye. Try focusing to bring her image to one point. If turning the focusing mechanism causes thin beams of light to grow in one direction before they disappear in the perpendicular direction, this is astigmatism.It greatly interferes with stargazing. As a rule, binoculars that do not have this distortion are forgiven for some other optical errors.

3. Move the image from the center of the field of view to its edge. Only in the absence of optical distortion and field curvature would the image remain focused. For high-quality optics, subtle distortions at a distance of 2/3 of the radius from the center of the field of view are considered acceptable.

Caring for binoculars

• Keep your lenses clean. It is best to use the supplied tissue to clean the optical surfaces. If not, use a soft and clean cloth (fine velvet, flannel).

• Before wiping, brush off dirt and dust from optical surfaces with a soft brush. I purchased my optics care products using this link on AliExpress. I was very pleased with the quality. And now there is an opportunity to buy these products at a discount, which you can read about in my article.

• After working with binoculars, be sure to cover the lenses and eyepieces with protective caps.

• The emerging grease stains must be removed with a special damp cloth intended for cleaning the optics. If not, use a special liquid applied to a cotton swab. After cleaning, wipe the optic surfaces dry from edge to center in a circular motion, gently pressing.

• To avoid possible damage to the anti-reflective coating, do not wipe the lenses with paper, either dry or wet. Do not breathe on them or wipe them with alcohol and household glass cleaning fluids.

• It is not necessary to try to wash the optical surfaces to a shine. Slightly dirty optics show better than thoroughly scratched ones.

• Clean the housing with a dry cloth. If you want to give it a shine, apply a few drops of synthetic detergent, then rub gently. Although in the field, this is an unmasking factor.

• Do not expose the binoculars to both low and high temperatures for extended periods. This also applies to direct sunlight. Use a carrying case or wardrobe trunk.

• Protect it from knocks. Store in dry and warm dough.

These are the main points that I wanted to tell you about. Let your binoculars last for many years.

Topic: Binoculars repair - Do it yourself. Manufacturing and repair - All about equipment - Main section - Forums of the Open Club Petersburg Okhotnik

After reading the topic about the repair of optical sights, I remembered that there are two binoculars that would not hurt to be repaired, and perhaps with our own hands.

Both have one problem - doubles.

We have 2 inexpensive binoculars:

1. Nikon Action 7 × 35 was bought about 8 years ago. Written by Japan, but most likely China. Per
Several years ago, it began to fog up. I tried to disassemble and unscrew everything that I could unscrew. It also fogs up + doubles more (maybe doubles before parsing). I noticed about 2 years ago. Didn't use it often.

2. Bushnell Waterproof 8 × 42 (I don't remember the exact model), I bought a scout kit on Cabelas about 4 years ago for $ 280

In which there was this binocular + rangefinder.

These binoculars began to double after a trip to South Africa. Apparently did not survive the transportation with heat (probably).

Question: is it possible at home to try to “cure” these binoculars from a “double” image? And if you can, then what to twist?

• October 26, 2010 09:50:13
• Reviews: 0
• Views: 5415
• 

The following article describes what we think binocular wearers need to know before they try a simple repair binoculars - collimation of binocular prisms (binocular alignment) using the prism tilt screws. For the preparation of article about the repair of binoculars we used astronomical equipment and binoculars that have served for over 30 years. We had about 10 different pieces of equipment, including 6 binoculars. Cloudy nights were our first exposure to astronomical information.

Is it really possible repair binoculars with your own hands? Is not it binocular alignment so simple?

How many of you, during the repair of binoculars, did not open the free protective rubber cover of your Oberwerk binoculars (or another similar brand), gain access to the prism, and tilt the “adjusting” screw? Turning the screws quickly and aligning them seems much more rewarding than they were previously. The images of the star are kind of "connected", and you already consider your binoculars "collimated". Okay - but maybe the images seem to merge, but diverge on the midline, or on the optical axis of the refurbished binoculars?

We just recently bought an Oberwerk 20 × 80’s. The manufacturer has confirmed that we can adjust the binoculars when we buy them. The binoculars, as we have already observed, had a small protective glue spot in the place above both screws on the left prism placement, but we still got access to the screws on the right placement and the possibility of repair. These binoculars may have been adapted to "merge" images, but they are by no means collimated. Properly collimated binoculars will show solid images of the star and show a good, round exit pupil. These binoculars almost blew out the images, but the light in the exit pupil of the right eyepiece was so reduced that it looked like a cat's eye. We would estimate the shape of the exit pupil as 30% - 40% image loss.

Now take a step back from your newly collimated binoculars and take a clear look at the exit pupils. Are they still perfectly round? Or one, or both of them now look like a cat's eye in daylight? Here. Incorrectly adjusting the prism deviates from the norm, “adjusting” screws can tilt the axis of one prism so inappropriately relative to another eyepiece prism that eventually a slight “vignette” “track” appears in the eyepiece. This can be considered an indicator that you will be able to visually reduce the image at the exit pupils. If you see this sharp and small image, then you must do it in both eyepieces.

To see firsthand what we are talking about, do the following test in daylight. However, be careful - this test will change the collimation of your binoculars! But, if he already "mows", you will not lose anything. Place your binoculars on a table or on a tripod by the window in bright daylight. This will allow you to easily see the exit pupils. Now, with a set of jewelry screwdrivers in the prism, tilt the screw, and when it is ready to turn, move your eyes away from the eyepieces - maybe a meter and a half or so. Turn the screw back and forth slightly and look at the exit pupil. Not only will it slide off the center in your eyepiece - it will also change its shape. You will see that over-adjusting the prism tilt screw results in an unacceptable change in the shape of the exit pupil image. Circular images indicate that a solid light “track” is going through both prisms and through the eyepiece. The generated cat-eye images indicate that the prisms are not tilted evenly and you are losing light that does not pass through the prisms to the eyepiece. If you don't support close and perfectly circular exit pupils, then you've gone too far!

Try this. Do you have a circle template handy? Use it to draw a perfect circle on your document. Now move the template a little and free up one quarter of the distance across the first circle you made. Now overlay the second circle. You now have two circles that partially overlap each other and two crescent sections that do not overlap the other circle. The center overlay area is now highlighted. You can see that you are kind of taking a photograph, which is an image of the exit pupil, which contracts as if the two circles of light in it were not completely overlapping.This is the same as the resulting image where the light passage through the two binocular prisms is not fully transmitted from one prism to the other. This is what happens when you tilt the prisms in your binoculars.

For binoculars with a 5mm field of view, the exit pupil, if the image is contraction, is circular, while a 4mm field of view gives a wide, sharp ellipse. Mathematical calculations show that this area of ​​the image has been reduced by about 30%. This is the equivalent of taking 80mm binoculars and masking the objective lens to 66mm — or 70mm binoculars reducing the target to 58mm. Remember that we are dealing with a circular area here. The 4mm circle, being only 20% smaller in diameter, the 5mm circle, has only 64% of this area.

For those of you who have already given the exit pupils the look of a cat's eye by turning the prism tilt screw to its original position, it will be just as easy to remember how you turned the screws before and returned them to where they were. You have to revert the exit pupil image to the circle state. This will likely result in another collimation of your binoculars, but in this case you will at least have a fully illuminated optical light path in each eyepiece of your binoculars.

The first and probably the most important thing you should know is that proper binocular alignment can be achieved primarily by adjusting the objective lens without tilting the prism. TOUCHING THE PRISM TILT SCREWS IS THE MOST EXTREME REMEDY IN ADJUSTING THE BINOCULARS. But if you look at things realistically, then few of us would agree to remove the objective lenses from my binoculars in order to refocus the lens on an object with an optical axis. And sometimes the binoculars you have may not even have the ability to remove the objective lens. Therefore, read the foreign literature on this topic: “Selection, use and repair of binoculars”, J.W.Seyfried, University Optics, Inc, 1995. Seyfried is the founder and president of “University Optics”. This book is available at for $ 19.95.

The second thing you should know is that there are two prisms in each eyepiece and THERE ARE TWO PRISM TILTING SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE OF EACH eyepiece PRISM. One screw is easy to find on top of the binoculars body, on top of the prism, just under the rubber edge. Another screw is located in front of the prism, almost behind the binocular center strip. Adjust the binoculars to 12 o'clock according to its markings. For the left eyepiece, the first screw is located at 11 o'clock in the back and the other at 90 degrees or 2 o'clock in the front. Likewise for the right eyepiece - if you find the first screw at a distance of 1 hour from the back, then the other screw is exactly 90 degrees or 10 o'clock in front.

Do some people need to be "adjusted"? (Most of us, probably?). No no no! However, binoculars need a little adjustment. If your binocular collimation needs only the slightest adjustment, then you could probably get away with adjusting just one screw on each eyepiece without perceivable slight contraction. And if you can achieve fusion images without noticeably altering the exit pupil image, then you can stop and consider it a stroke of luck. But if your collimation needs even a little adjustment, then this process should consist of a slight rotation of the screws on one eyepiece and then a small rotation of the screws on the other eyepiece. The screws should be turned in tiny steps, similar to how the Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope is adjusted.

So how do you determine if images are merged in binoculars that need alignment? If they don't fuse just a little, then it's easy. It all looks very strange. You will not see the same image on each side of the binoculars.If they are not fused together in moderation, your eyes will strain a lot, linking the images together, causing inappropriate eye strain and even headaches. If they don't fuse a little, then your eyes will do the job of connecting the image, and you will never notice it.

The easiest way for us to see the discrepancy in the images should be from 6 "to 12" on a tripod mounted binoculars, which are aimed at a very bright star. Try to choose one that is not too high in the sky so as not to stretch your neck too far. When you move in the opposite direction, you must keep your eyes on the eyepieces. You have to rely on your visual memory when you Deliberately, like a child, look at something and then allow your eyes to act on their own, as if you were not really looking at anything. What you will find as a result of this process when you allow your eyes to “relax” in a similar manner are two separate images that you see before you start moving. Focus your eyes on the image. They will either stop at a certain point, showing you the discrepancy or division in the images, or they will act together. Do this several times until you are sure that your eyes are not connecting or slightly connecting the images.

Once you have identified the need for alignment, you must tune in to do this very alignment. We mean that it is fairly easy to make alignment adjustments at night using a bright star. No other object you can see will give you the same point accuracy as in the image of the center of a bright star. The same position is used for the adjustment process: 6 "to 12" pull back from the binoculars. Once you have acquired the ability to delaminate your eyes and see different images in the left and right eyepieces, you will easily observe this process as you "move" the images with the adjusting screws.

You must check if each of the screws is adjusted to see the path that drives the image. Move these screws very slowly. With a tiny rotation step, you can significantly move the image in the eyepiece. If you try to adjust everything completely using one screw on one side of the binoculars, you will very quickly distort your exit pupil into the shape of a cat's eye. So, we recommend that you separately adjust and correct the image with each screw on each side of the binoculars, but evenly.

Convergence occurs when the image in the right eyepiece is to the left of the image in the left eyepiece. A slight horizontal convergence of the image can be tolerated. The discrepancy is noticeable when the image in the right eyepiece is to the right of the image in the left eyepiece. Horizontal misalignment of the image must not be allowed. So does the vertical divergence. The eyes do not have any muscles to accommodate these two visual errors. For a more detailed overview of convergence and divergence, see Seyfried's book mentioned above.

First of all, you will benefit from improved images - if you needed a lot of adjustment toalign your binoculars... Your eyes will look through binoculars with less strain. You will also notice a significant improvement in light transmittance if you have successfully corrected the exit pupil shape. We improved the 15x70 image of the binoculars so that we could clearly see the double image at 16 ", and although it was not crushing, it matched correctly and the position angle changed from 13" to 10 ". We also improved the 20x80 image so that the previously visible difference in light bandwidth between the two eyepieces became much less noticeable and the 10 ”dual image was shattered.

If you have binoculars, then you should know how to adjust them slightly. We view this process in the same light as the adjustment of the Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope or Newtonian telescope. Anyone with a mirror telescope like this should learn the process of adjusting their mirror, as these telescopes require regular adjustment. Likewise, you should know how to determine if your binoculars need adjustment, and if so, you should also know how to do it correctly.

We do not limit binocular alignment exclusively through the adjustment of the prism tilt screws. However, we have 5 binoculars and two of them seem to need significant adjustment to improve collimation. We have not yet discovered how to remove the objective lenses of either of these two binoculars. In fact, in every binocular, the objective lenses are tightly sealed with a glue-like substance. This forces one to resort to an alternative method - trying to align by adjusting the prism tilt screws. We see these procedures as a temporary solution to a more complex process, which must then be fully studied and tested in order to solve this alignment problem completely and completely.

Good day! There is a plate with the inscription YUKON on this cover, it must be carefully pry off. Beneath it is the screw that holds the cover. Maybe he got off the ground. But most likely, the sides under this screw broke.
Sincerely, Alexander.

Good day! There is a plate with the inscription YUKON on this cover, it must be carefully pry off. Beneath it is the screw that holds the cover. Maybe he got off the ground. But most likely, the sides under this screw broke.
Sincerely, Alexander.

This plate is glued, so you need to pry it very carefully.

Many people ask themselves the question of how, after all, to correctly adjust the binoculars so that there is no split and get a clear focus? In this article we will try to tell you everything about setting up binoculars.

To begin with, what is binocular adjustment and how it differs from adjustment. Surely, many simply do not know what alignment is, and this is the answer to this question that Wikipedia has prepared for us.

Yusyrovka (from German justieren to measure) - a set of operations to align structures and structural elements (surfaces, pillars, racks, etc.) along a certain direction ("axial"), as well as to bring a measure, measuring or optical device, mechanisms ( or their parts) into working condition, ensuring the accuracy, correctness and reliability of their operation. When adjusting the instruments, the checking and adjustment of the measuring and / or optical instrument is carried out, implying the achievement of the correct interposition of the instrument elements and their correct interaction. The term “adjustment” or calibration is also used to refer to such actions for various instruments.

That is, setting up binoculars is a correct focusing and adjustment "for yourself", and adjustment is a deeper and more complex procedure, which implies the presence of straight arms and dexterity.

So, back to the setup ...

First, you need to adjust the correct distance between the binoculars between the eyes, or to be precise, the "interpupillary distance". We all have different faces, and therefore an individual adjustment is required.

Grasp both halves of the binoculars, bring them to your eyes and move the halves closer and further apart until the image forms a circle, as shown in the picture below.

There are several types and options for focusing, it all depends on the type of model.

• Center focus
• Fixed focus
• Adjustable multiplicity
• Individual focusing

The most common type of binoculars are equipped with a central focusing mechanism. In order to properly adjust the focus, you must:

1. Presets the interpupillary distance
2. Set the diopter setting to its original position.(Keep both eyes open while doing this.)
3. Close one lens from the diopter adjustment side (usually the right one) with a cover or palm, look at a distant object in the other.
4. Twisting the focusing ring (on some models, the lever) to get the maximum clarity of the image.
5. Close the lens through which the focus was adjusted, open the second one.
6. Focus on the same object with the other eye, but only by adjusting the diopter ring.

Ready! Now, to focus the binoculars at different distances, you just need to turn the focusing ring. We recommend that you write down the diopter settings, or remember, but it is better to write them down.

Check the setting of the binoculars, focusing on objects of different distances. Optimal - the adjustment should not exceed one turn of the focusing wheel.

Fixed focus binoculars do not need to be adjusted, they provide a clear image at distances of 10-30 meters and up to infinity (depending on the model). The only thing that you can adjust is the distance between the eyepieces - the "interpupillary distance", which we mentioned earlier, and also carry out the diopter adjustment.

When setting up binoculars with adjustable magnification, you should use a little "life hack". These binoculars have an additional control. responsible for the multiplicity - adjustable magnification.

Set the binoculars to the maximum magnification mode (as a rule, a lever is responsible for this action, less often a ring). Then adjust the focus (we wrote about how to do this above). In this case, even when changing the magnification, the deviations will be insignificant and only a slight adjustment of the focus will be required.

If you try to adjust the focus at the minimum magnification, then with further magnification, the focusing ring will have to be twisted diligently in search of ideal image clarity.

In this type of binoculars, focusing is performed by separate diopter adjustment for each lens. Rotate the diopter rings alternately for the best result.

The final step in setting up binoculars is adjusting the eyecups. An important factor influencing the use of binoculars depends on this - comfort.

There are 2 types of eyecups

• Rubber - there are adjustable and non-adjustable
• Swivel or "twist" - with variable height adjustment.

The adjustable rubber eyecups fold back to change the lens-to-eye distance. Swivel eyecups, as the name implies, change their height by turning.

We recommend adjusting the height of the eyecups in such a way that the eyes can only see the picture of the binoculars without side, vertical or horizontal glare, while not resting on the lenses.

Additional advice: If you wear glasses with dipotria or ballistic glasses, we recommend that you screw the rubber caps (if any) for more convenient use.

For the most curious: Never, do you hear, never (!) Look at the sun through binoculars. If, looking at the sun in a telescope, you retain sight in at least one eye, then when using binoculars, you risk losing sight in both at once - this is a "strike", gentlemen!

We hope this article will allow you to set up your binoculars as correctly as possible, whether you are a hunter, airsoft player, tourist or just a curious reader.

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Hello everyone! I decided to write this little instruction in the hope that there are still people on the Internet (like me until recently) who do not know how to solve this problem. And in order to at least somehow try to help them cope with this very common problem of "double vision" of old binoculars of the system Porro.

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Below is a diagram so that you can visually familiarize yourself with the main elements of the binocular design:

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And so, just recently I got hold of a wonderful binocular from the 80s. The most common, with a Porro prism system.
Atlas 8 × 25. Made in Japan.

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I like everything about him. The picture is bright and clear. Compact. Robust, reliable construction of this device. But he had one joint that I could not get used to. This is the same duplication of the image. I saw a picture in it like this:

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2. Weaken (We do not unscrew completely) both inner rings of the lens.

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In general, here the preparation for the adjustment is over.
All we needed to do was to release the lens adjusting rings.

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This ring is unthreaded and has one adjustment hole.
Rotates freely in a circle.
This ring adjusts the angle of the lens.

Now be patient. The most troublesome and tedious part begins.
ADJUSTMENT by eye.
Attach the binoculars to a tripod by the window (I did it with my hands 🙂). Choose some object. for example, an antenna on the next roof or a satalite in the next house. My reference point was the corner of a neighboring building. I could clearly see the split horizontally and vertically. At the same time, I do not recommend looking through binoculars with both eyes. Since the eyes themselves bring the image horizontally into one whole. I looked through the binoculars with my left eye, then my right and adjusted the rings until the image in the left and right eyepieces ceased to differ.

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As soon as you find the most optimal position of the lenses, the image in the binoculars will become clear (uniform), remember this position. Gently tighten the inner lens rings. In this case, when the inner rings of the lens are pressed against the adjusting ring, be sure to make sure that the position of the adjusting ring does not stray from its position.
We twist the rim rings back.

After about forty minutes of these (dancing with a tambourine), I achieved an amazingly clear and whole picture (without double vision).
Looking through my binoculars has become a pleasure.

Do not judge strictly for such a Nubian instruction. I'm not an expert at writing like that. There was just a problem, I tried to solve it myself and it worked. Than I actually share with others who have a similar problem. Thanks to all.

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