DIY binocular repair

There are two problems with it - the diopter adjustment of the right eyepiece does not work and the binoculars themselves double.

This raised two questions.

First. How to loosen the objective lens for alignment? I have removed the protective decorative cover, but the lens does not rotate. There is a hole in the frame, but what it is for is not clear.

The second question. Are all parts in place for diopter adjustment. maybe they just twisted the right eyepiece too much and it jammed?

Dear experts in optics, thank you in advance.

You have an ordinary BPC5 8x30 of the Kazan Optical and Mechanical Plant of 1990, made simply for export Revue 8X30 Weitwinkel!

Give it to optics repair, it will be easier!

Transmittal letter.
I ask you to repair the BPC5 8x30 binoculars, s / n No. No. No. and No. No. No. taking into account the requirements for this product.
Binocular malfunctions s / n №№№: when observing through binoculars, the image doubles, the right eye conch is absent, the diopter correction of the right eyepiece does not work, cleaning of the optics is required.
Binocular malfunctions s / n №№№: when observing through binoculars, the image doubles, the right eye conch is missing, the diopter correction of the right eyepiece does not work, the thread on the left lens cap is torn off, cleaning of the optics is required.
I also ask you to consider the possibility of repairing B6x30 binoculars, s / n No. No. No. and No. No. No.
Binocular malfunctions s / n №№№: when observing through binoculars the image doubles, cleaning of the optics is required, the reticle is installed at an angle, the eyepieces rotate very easily.
Binocular malfunctions s / n №№№: when observing through binoculars, the image doubles, cleaning of the optics is required, the grid is installed at an angle, the eyepieces rotate very tightly, there are no eye concha.
I guarantee payment for the work performed.

The binoculars got to the repair shop about 2 weeks after they were sent. That is, by mid-July. In early August, I asked how things were going with the repair, to which I was told that they would issue an invoice in the next few days and asked for the fax number to send it to. This is where the fun began. I had to wait until September 4 to issue an invoice - for almost a month I was asked to wait a little, because there are a lot of binoculars under repair, and the repair shop does not have time for everything at once. An account for about 2 thousand, 600 rubles each - for BPC5, 200 - for B6, plus the bank's commission. After paying the bill, I began to wait for the package from the factory. After 2 weeks of waiting, I called the factory, where they asked me when I would pay the bill. As it turned out, the payment documents were stuck somewhere and were safely found 2 days after my call. After another call, I learned that on September 26 the binoculars had left the factory, and again began to wait. They could not find the package in auto trading, and I had to call the factory again. There they began to look for the invoice number, after which they called back and said that the binoculars were sent on October 4. On October 9, I received the package. The binoculars came back in my own box, only already sealed, they were sealed with my own newspapers.

The quality of the repairs is up to the mark, the impression is that you are holding new binoculars in your hands. Replaced parts do not stand out either in color or in texture. The only drawback is that we replaced the slightly crumpled cover on which it says “BPC5 made in USSR” with “BPC5 made in Russia”, IMHO reduces the value of the binoculars. I would have known, I would have asked not to change in the cover letter. The B6 was cleaned very well, there is not a speck of dust inside, the mesh was set straight, the binoculars were sealed with some kind of black putty. Minus - the diopter adjustment scales on the eyepieces were not set exactly, and now they do not mean anything. But you can fix it yourself.

Overall happy, I got 4 excellent binoculars, which were once rubbish. Once again, the quality is excellent, but the waiting time leaves much to be desired. If you missed something, ask, I will answer.

The usefulness of binoculars is hard to overestimate. Its presence or absence can become critically important for people in such professions as rescuers and researchers. Also, hunters and tourists cannot do without it. The binoculars will surely serve for more than one year. You just need to choose the right one.

Signs of misalignment of binoculars - the image doubles, eyes get tired. This may also be because the exit pupils are not collinear. Fatigue of vision is explained by the fact that with small values ​​of bifurcations, a person instinctively tries to compensate for this phenomenon. The images are aligned due to the natural binocular vision device. Getting rid of this phenomenon is sometimes even more difficult than repairing binoculars with your own hands.

To set up binoculars yourself, there are many simple techniques that do not require specific knowledge, skills, devices and laboratory conditions. They consist in installing and debugging using the adjusting screws of the horizontal (from the horizon) and vertical (from the supports) of the planes.

Only these methods do not give the required accuracy. Due to the physiological characteristics of human vision, it is not possible to accurately reduce the planes.

One of the most accurate methods is alignment using a distant, powerful point light source.

This process is described in full step by step below.

The first step is to determine what shape the exit pupils are. The adjustment is made to that part, the exit pupil of which has a shape other than round or its prism is asymmetric. If no visible faults are found, the binoculars are relatively usable. The setting is done sequentially. You can start with either half.

Now you need to check the tuned device, aiming at other objects. If there are no problems with the image, you need to fix the settings. To do this, fix the screws with a little super glue or quick-drying varnish. And finally, glue the guide in place.

In bright light, the exit pupils are unevenly lit. Holding the binoculars at a distance of 5 ... 8 cm from the eyes, and directing the eyepieces to the sky, you can see an interesting optical effect: a light circle with darkening in the middle. By exploiting this phenomenon, it is possible to precisely match the views of the subject without defocusing.

All you need to do is point the binoculars at a bright light source and combine the bifurcated view using the adjusting screws. Moreover, the eyes do not get tired if you focus on the circle, and not on the object.

Do-it-yourself binoculars can be repaired even if the binoculars are not equipped with adjusting screws. You can, for example, release (tighten) the threaded eyepiece ring by turning the adjustment dial (if any). You can also install tube spacers. You can control the results in the same way as described above.

In the previous article "Choosing and Adjusting Binoculars" I told you how to choose the right binoculars when buying and how to customize it for yourself. Now the time has come to understand the problem when the image is doubled during observation, which leads to rapid eye fatigue and even headaches.

If, after purchasing the binoculars, you come across these signs, then it is not aligned and needs careful adjustment. Fortunately, this can be done at home, making the procedure much easier.

Let's see why such problems arise.

The binoculars consist of two identical halves, each of which must be accurately directed to the object of observation, that is, the optical axes of the tubes must be parallel. If the binoculars are incorrectly adjusted (misaligned), your eyes will try to compensate for the double image, which leads to excessive eye strain.

Before adjusting the optical system of the binoculars, correctly set the interpupillary distance, as described in the previous article, and aim it at any sharp horizontal distant object (wire, roof ridge). Then set the diopter adjustment ring at the right eyepiece to zero.

While continuing to look through the eyepieces, slowly move the binoculars away from you. In this case, the image should not be bifurcated. From the first try, you may not see the difference, because the eyes tend to automatically compensate for the split. Plus, binoculars with good alignment will only show split for a short time. Therefore, check your binoculars several times.

In my binoculars, I immediately noticed a split, as I could not immediately count the stretched cable strings on the wall of a distant building. If you also see that the image is noticeably doubled, either asymmetrically vertically and horizontally, or the left image is rotated at an angle relative to the right, your binoculars definitely need to be adjusted.

Adjusting binoculars with Roof or Porro prisms

It is worth remembering that adjustment at home is possible only for those binoculars that have access to the adjustment screws. They can be used to correct the prismatic units of binoculars (usually of the Porro type).

In my case, the screws were hidden under the rubber pads, so I had to carefully peel off their edges.

Binoculars with a Roof prism, as well as nitrogen-filled devices should be adjusted only with the help of special equipment. It is quite difficult to adjust binoculars with variable magnification. Their optical elements have a large degree of mobility, therefore, distortions in their relative position may occur, which can lead to image distortion when the magnification is changed. If you have these types of binoculars, try replacing them at a store or contact a specialist workshop.

If the image is double, you need to align the binoculars

To carry out this procedure yourself, follow the steps outlined below:

1. Check how tightly and completely the objective tubes are screwed into the instrument body. Even the smallest backlash greatly affects the image quality.

2. Make sure the eyepiece assemblies are not skewed.

3. If these factors are present, eliminate them.

4. The most convenient is the setting for ground objects in the daytime. To do this, select an object with a regular structure, located at least 100 meters. This can be a fence, brickwork, or a surface with large tiles.

5. Fix the binoculars in a fixed position using a tripod or support (window sill).

6. Set the interpupillary distance, then point the binoculars at the selected object and focus the image.

7. Relax your eyes as much as possible and look at the eyepieces, not through binoculars. Alternately closing your eyes, follow the subject's image, which should shift slightly towards the closed eye.

8. Move your eyes 5 cm away from the eyepieces. If the horizontal lines on the object diverge vertically, your binoculars are misaligned.

9. For subsequent adjustments, you must have access to the adjusting screws, which on Porro instruments are usually hidden under the rubber cover of the case (as shown in the above photos).

10. Each pipe usually has a pair of these screws. The first one adjusts the eyepiece prism, and the second one adjusts the objective one. Therefore, the first one should be looked for on top of the prismatic unit of binoculars, near the eyepiece assembly, and the second one - on the inner side of the unit, closer to the lens.

Carefully bend the rubber cover with a "clock" screwdriver and, without applying excessive force, try to turn the screw. At the factory, they are filled with varnish, so effort is necessary, but the slot is very small. Don't cut it off!

11. Remember! The image moves in the direction the screw is rotating.So when adjusting the right optical channel, turning the screw inward (clockwise), the image will move down from right to left. By unscrewing the screw (counterclockwise) you will move the image upward from left to right.

12. Turning the screw on the left optical channel clockwise will shift the object image from left to down and to the right, and counterclockwise - from right to up and to the left.

13. As you can see, the movement of the image in the field of view of the optical channels occurs diagonally. In this case, clockwise rotation of the screws shifts it to the center of the field of view, and rotating it counterclockwise we move it away from the center.

Scheme of moving the image of an object in optical channels, depending on the screws used.

14. Minor misalignment is usually corrected by adjusting one pair of screws. In this case, small turns should not be more than 1/5 of a screw turn, and after each adjustment, a visual assessment of the result is necessary, as described above.

A common case of horizontal misalignment requires adjustment of only the first (ocular) pair of screws. By turning slightly clockwise, you seem to push the images of the object down and towards each other. You should end up with perfect vertical alignment.

It should be remembered that a slight displacement of the object's image to the left when closing the left eye, and also to the right when closing the right eye is quite normal. The main thing is to make sure that the images do not move in the opposite direction, which will cause a headache.

Night alignment of binoculars

Having achieved the symmetry of the image in the left and right optical channels, it is necessary to carry out a similar alignment at night.

In this case, you need to select a point light source located at a distance of several kilometers as an object for observation. It can be a lantern, a lamp, or an "artificial star". As the latter, you can use a lamp or a bright LED, wrapped in foil, with a small hole made by a needle.

You can use bright planets and stars, but due to the constant movement of the celestial sphere, this option is less convenient.

The binoculars are adjusted in the same way as during the daytime, although one rather original technique can be applied. To do this, you need to catch a bright star and focus the image on it. Then, using the diopter adjustment ring, defocus the right optical channel as much as possible, in which the star will take the form of a small disk. Using the adjusting screws, carefully move the focused image of the left eyepiece to the center of this dial. Thus, the alignment is excellent!

Be sure, after completing the adjustment, fix the position of all screws. To do this, just drip on them with nail polish or paint.

Useful Tips

Aligning binoculars is quite tiring on your eyes, so take occasional breaks to let them rest.

Perfect alignment will allow observation for a long time without discomfort.

The most accurate optics test is performed when observing stars in the night sky.

1. First look at the moon, whether any bright planet. Chromatism will probably be visible along the edge of its disk. Moreover, the smaller it is, the clearer you will see the image through binoculars.

2. After that, find a bright star and look in turn with one eye. Try focusing to bring her image to one point. If turning the focusing mechanism causes thin beams of light to grow in one direction before they disappear in the perpendicular direction, this is astigmatism. It greatly interferes with stargazing. As a rule, binoculars that do not have this distortion are forgiven for some other optical errors.

3. Move the image from the center of the field of view to its edge. Only in the absence of optical distortion and field curvature would the image remain focused.For high-quality optics, subtle distortions at a distance of 2/3 of the radius from the center of the field of view are considered acceptable.

Caring for binoculars

• Keep your lenses clean. It is best to use the supplied tissue to clean the optical surfaces. If not, use a soft and clean cloth (fine velvet, flannel).

• Before wiping, wipe off dirt and dust from optical surfaces with a soft brush. I purchased my optics care products using this link on AliExpress. I was very pleased with the quality. And now there is an opportunity to buy these products at a discount, which you can read about in my article.

• After working with binoculars, be sure to cover the lenses and eyepieces with protective caps.

• The emerging grease stains must be removed with a special damp cloth intended for cleaning the optics. If not, use a special liquid applied to a cotton swab. After cleaning, wipe the optic surfaces dry from edge to center in a circular motion, gently pressing.

• To avoid possible damage to the anti-reflective coating, do not wipe the lenses with paper, either dry or wet. Do not breathe on them or wipe them with alcohol and household glass cleaning fluids.

• It is not necessary to try to wash the optical surfaces to a shine. Slightly dirty optics show better than thoroughly scratched ones.

• Clean the housing with a dry cloth. If you want to give it a shine, apply a few drops of synthetic detergent, then rub gently. Although in the field, this is an unmasking factor.

• Do not expose the binoculars to both low and high temperatures for extended periods. This also applies to direct sunlight. Use a carrying case or wardrobe trunk.

• Protect it from knocks. Store in dry and warm dough.

These are the main points that I wanted to tell you about. Let your binoculars last for many years.

Topic: Binoculars repair - Do it yourself. Manufacturing and repair - All about equipment - Main section - Forums of the Open Club Petersburg Okhotnik

After reading the topic about the repair of optical sights, I remembered that there are two binoculars that would not hurt to be repaired, and perhaps with our own hands.

Both have one problem - doubles.

We have 2 inexpensive binoculars:

1. Nikon Action 7 × 35 was bought about 8 years ago. Written by Japan, but most likely China. Per
Several years ago, it began to fog up. I tried to disassemble and unscrew everything that I could unscrew. It also fogs up + doubles more (maybe doubles before parsing). I noticed about 2 years ago. Didn't use it often.

2. Bushnell Waterproof 8 × 42 (I don't remember the exact model), I bought a scout kit on Cabelas about 4 years ago for $ 280

In which there was this binocular + rangefinder.

These binoculars began to double after a trip to South Africa. Apparently did not survive the transportation with heat (probably).

Question: is it possible at home to try to “cure” these binoculars from a “double” image? And if you can, then what to twist?

• October 26, 2010 09:50:13
• Reviews: 0
• Views: 5408
• 

The following article describes what we think binocular wearers need to know before they try a simple repair binoculars - collimation of binoculars prisms (binocular alignment) using the prism tilt screws. For the preparation of article about the repair of binoculars we used astronomical equipment and binoculars that have served for over 30 years. We had about 10 different pieces of equipment, including 6 binoculars. Cloudy nights were our first exposure to astronomical information.

Is it really possible repair binoculars with your own hands? Is not it binocular alignment so simple?

How many of you, during the repair of binoculars, did not open the free protective rubber cover of your Oberwerk binoculars (or another similar brand), gain access to the prism, and tilt the “adjusting” screw? Turning the screws quickly and aligning them seems much more rewarding than before.The images of the star are kind of "connected", and you already consider your binoculars "collimated". Okay - but maybe the images seem to merge, but diverge on the midline, or on the optical axis of the refurbished binoculars?

We just recently bought an Oberwerk 20 × 80’s. The manufacturer has confirmed that we can adjust the binoculars when we buy them. The binoculars, as we have already observed, had a small protective glue spot in the place above both screws on the left prism placement, but we still got access to the screws on the right placement and the possibility of repair. These binoculars may have been adapted to "merge" images, but they are by no means collimated. Properly collimated binoculars will show solid images of the star and show a good, round exit pupil. These binoculars almost blew out the images, but the light in the exit pupil of the right eyepiece was so reduced that it looked like a cat's eye. We would estimate the shape of the exit pupil as 30% - 40% image loss.

Now take a step back from your newly collimated binoculars and take a clear look at the exit pupils. Are they still perfectly round? Or one, or both of them now look like a cat's eye in daylight? Here. Incorrectly adjusting the prism deviates from the norm, “adjusting” screws can tilt the axis of one prism so inappropriately relative to another eyepiece prism that eventually a slight “vignette” “track” appears in the eyepiece. This can be considered an indicator that you will be able to visually reduce the image at the exit pupils. If you see this sharp and small image, then you must do it in both eyepieces.

To see firsthand what we are talking about, do the following test in daylight. However, be careful - this test will change the collimation of your binoculars! But, if he already "mows", you will not lose anything. Place your binoculars on a table or on a tripod by the window in bright daylight. This will allow you to easily see the exit pupils. Now, with a set of jewelry screwdrivers in the prism, tilt the screw, and when it is ready to turn, move your eyes away from the eyepieces - maybe a meter and a half or so. Turn the screw back and forth slightly and look at the exit pupil. Not only will it slide off the center in your eyepiece - it will also change its shape. You will see that over-adjusting the prism tilt screw results in an unacceptable change in the shape of the exit pupil image. Circular images indicate that a solid light “track” is going through both prisms and through the eyepiece. The generated cat-eye images indicate that the prisms are not tilted evenly and you are losing light that does not pass through the prisms to the eyepiece. If you don't support close and perfectly circular exit pupils, then you've gone too far!

Try this. Do you have a circle template handy? Use it to draw a perfect circle on your document. Now move the template a little and free up one quarter of the distance across the first circle you made. Now overlay the second circle. You now have two circles that partially overlap each other and two crescent sections that do not overlap the other circle. The center overlay area is now highlighted. You can see that you are kind of taking a photograph, which is an image of the exit pupil, which contracts as if the two circles of light in it were not completely overlapping. This is the same as the resulting image where the light passage through the two binocular prisms is not fully transmitted from one prism to the other. This is what happens when you tilt the prisms in your binoculars.

For binoculars with a 5mm field of view, the exit pupil, if the image is contraction, is circular, while a 4mm field of view gives a wide, sharp ellipse.Mathematical calculations show that this area of ​​the image has been reduced by about 30%. This is the equivalent of taking 80mm binoculars and masking the objective lens down to 66mm — or 70mm binoculars reducing the target to 58mm. Remember that we are dealing with a circular area here. The 4mm circle, being only 20% smaller in diameter, the 5mm circle, has only 64% of this area.

For those of you who have already given the exit pupils the look of a cat's eye by turning the prism tilt screw to its original position, it will be just as easy to remember how you turned the screws before and returned them to where they were. You have to revert the exit pupil image to the circle state. This will likely result in another collimation of your binoculars, but in this case you will at least have a fully illuminated optical light path in each eyepiece of your binoculars.

The first and probably most important thing you should know is that proper binocular alignment can be achieved primarily by adjusting the objective lens without tilting the prism. TOUCHING THE PRISM TILT SCREWS IS THE MOST EXTREME REMEDY IN ADJUSTING THE BINOCULARS. But if you look at things realistically, then few of us would agree to remove the objective lenses from my binoculars in order to refocus the lens on an object with an optical axis. And sometimes the binoculars you have may not even have the ability to remove the objective lens. Therefore, read foreign literature on this topic: “Selection, use and repair of binoculars”, J.W.Seyfried, University Optics, Inc, 1995. Seyfried is the founder and president of “University Optics”. This book is available at for $ 19.95.

The second thing you should know is that there are two prisms in each eyepiece and THERE ARE TWO PRISM TILTING SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE OF EACH eyepiece PRISM. One screw is easy to find on top of the binoculars body, on top of the prism, just under the rubber edge. Another screw is located in front of the prism, almost behind the binocular center strip. Adjust the binoculars to 12 o'clock according to its markings. For the left eyepiece, the first screw is located at 11 o'clock in the back and the other at 90 degrees or 2 o'clock in the front. Likewise for the right eyepiece - if you find the first screw at a distance of 1 hour from the back, then the other screw is exactly 90 degrees or 10 o'clock in front.

Do some people need to be "adjusted"? (Most of us, probably?). No no no! However, binoculars need a little adjustment. If your binocular collimation only needs the slightest adjustment, then you could probably get away with adjusting just one screw on each eyepiece without perceivable slight contraction. And if you can achieve fusion images without noticeably altering the exit pupil image, then you can stop and consider it a stroke of luck. But if your collimation needs even a little adjustment, then this process should consist of a small rotation of the screws on one eyepiece and then a small rotation of the screws on the other eyepiece. The screws should be turned in tiny steps, similar to how the Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope is adjusted.

So how do you determine if images are merged in binoculars that need alignment? If they don't fuse just a little, then it's easy. It all looks very strange. You will not see the same image on each side of the binoculars. If they are not fused in a moderate amount, your eyes will strain a lot, linking the images together, causing inappropriate eye strain and even headaches. If they don't fuse a little, then your eyes will do the job of connecting the image, and you will never notice it.

The easiest way for us to see the discrepancy in the images should be from 6 "to 12" on a tripod mounted binoculars, which are aimed at a very bright star.Try to choose one that is not too high in the sky so as not to stretch your neck too far. When you move in the opposite direction, you must keep your eyes on the eyepieces. You have to rely on your visual memory when you Deliberately, like a child, look at something and then allow your eyes to act on their own, as if you were not really looking at anything. What you will find as a result of this process when you allow your eyes to “relax” in a similar manner are two separate images that you see before you start moving. Focus your eyes on the image. They will either stop at a certain point, showing you the discrepancy or division in the images, or they will act together. Do this several times until you are sure that your eyes are not connecting or slightly connecting the images.

Once you have identified the need for alignment, you must tune in to do this very alignment. We mean that it is fairly easy to make alignment adjustments at night using a bright star. No other object you can see will give you the same point accuracy as in the image of the center of a bright star. The same position is used for the adjustment process: 6 "to 12" pull back from the binoculars. Once you have acquired the ability to delaminate your eyes and see different images in the left and right eyepieces, you will easily observe this process as you "move" the images with the adjusting screws.

You must check if each of the screws is adjusted to see the path that drives the image. Move these screws very slowly. With a tiny rotation step, you can significantly move the image in the eyepiece. If you try to adjust everything completely using one screw on one side of the binoculars, you will very quickly distort your exit pupil into the shape of a cat's eye. So, we recommend that you separately adjust and correct the image with each screw on each side of the binoculars, but evenly.

Convergence occurs when the image in the right eyepiece is to the left of the image in the left eyepiece. A slight horizontal convergence of the image can be tolerated. The discrepancy is noticeable when the image in the right eyepiece is to the right of the image in the left eyepiece. Horizontal misalignment of the image must not be allowed. So does the vertical divergence. The eyes do not have any muscles to accommodate these two visual errors. For a more detailed overview of convergence and divergence, see Seyfried's book mentioned above.

First of all, you will benefit from improved images - if you needed a lot of adjustment toalign your binoculars... Your eyes will look through binoculars with less strain. You will also notice a significant improvement in light transmittance if you have successfully corrected the exit pupil shape. We improved the 15x70 image of the binoculars so that we could clearly see the double image at 16 ", and although it was not crushing, it matched correctly and the position angle changed from 13" to 10 ". We also improved the 20x80 image so that the previously visible difference in light bandwidth between the two eyepieces became much less noticeable and the 10 ”dual image was shattered.

If you have binoculars, then you should know how to adjust them slightly. We view this process in the same light as the adjustment of the Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope or Newtonian telescope. Anyone with a mirror telescope like this should learn the process of adjusting their mirror, as these telescopes require regular adjustment. Likewise, you should know how to determine if your binoculars need adjustment, and if so, you should also know how to do it correctly.

We do not limit binocular alignment exclusively through the adjustment of the prism tilt screws. However, we have 5 binoculars and two of them seem to need significant adjustment to improve collimation. We have not yet discovered how to remove the objective lenses of either of these two binoculars. In fact, in every binocular, the objective lenses are tightly sealed with a glue-like substance. This forces one to resort to an alternative method - trying to align by adjusting the prism tilt screws. We see these procedures as a temporary solution to a more complex process, which must then be fully studied and tested in order to solve this alignment problem completely and completely.

There are Soviet-made BPC5 8x30 binoculars, tourist, without a net, with Olympic symbols and a leather case! Everything was perfectly visible until the child once dropped it. Now each “monocular” has its own focusing - each one is individually adjusted, but it is impossible to look together: it has two. Therefore, the question is - can it be repaired or is it easier to let the child break it completely?

Specify what kind of binoculars we are talking about? Probably BPC5 8x30 or BPC 7x50, the Olympics sign was on these and another 12x40, well, not counting the theatrical!

These binoculars have central focusing, repair is possible, you need it to repair optics, where they repair sights, cameras, etc.

gavarun,
if nothing has fallen off and continues to spin and fold, then you should contact your home or any photographic store, and ask the optician.
Preliminary verdict - prisms went off when dropped.

quote: Originally posted by gavarun:

BPC5 8x30

Good binoculars, by the way, I had just such an Olympics 80 and a year of release like your 1980, the optics, compared to other BPC5s, are light and without yellowness.
To adjust it.

quote: Originally posted by master5:

To adjust it

but really do it yourself? for example, having instructions? most likely in the workshop they will rip off as much as it costs second-hand?

if you didn’t, it’s better to go to a specialist, a working BPC5 Olympian in good preservation costs from 3tr, give it for diagnostics ..

these are binoculars produced by KOMZ, you can send them for repair.
They repaired me, though B6. site

quote: these are binoculars produced by KOMZ, you can send them for repair.
They repaired me,
The quality of the renovation is terrible.
They do not know their technique and do it carelessly. Dust, fingerprints and misaligned scales are small things.
The actual adjustment is also not very good - they assure what is done on the collimator, but a significant diagonal is visible by eye - usually diagonally.
TS if you do not find any options - send.
Communication in RM.

my B6x30 1946 eliminated the terribly tight adjustment of the MZR and the backlash of the right eyepiece, which also rotated in jerks.
What you wrote can be attributed to ZOMZ - there is experience.

quote: eliminated the terribly tight adjustment of the MZR and the backlash of the right eyepiece, which also rotated in jerks
This is a mechanic, if it worked out - then there must be a locksmith there still bearable.
As for the optics technicians, see above. I won't say anything for ZOMZ - I had no experience.
I personally did not cooperate with KOMZ, but I had occasion to edit binoculars after them - they are cruel people, as harsh as “Chelyabinsk men”.
Although there used to be a unique team.

It is possible and even necessary to repair. I have for this the "optical bench" equipment and the corresponding higher image for this profile. If you decide, then contact through this forum.

You cannot get optical axes parallel to the optical axis of binoculars without a collimator.
You can try to achieve at least parallelism of optical channels for your vision.
At night, put the binoculars on a tripod and aim at a bright star. Check the interpupillary distance with a ruler, it should correspond to yours. Defocus one eyepiece and look with two eyes, using the lens eccentrics (the lens is adjusted with two eccentric rings) drive the point-star into the center of the defocused star. As a result, we get binoculars adjusted for your interpupillary distance (periodically, for a while, look not through the binoculars, otherwise the brain will reduce the image in the binoculars), the optical axes are parallel, but not parallel to the optical axis of the binoculars, therefore, when the interpupillary distance changes, the optic parallelism. axes will be broken.Just in case, mark the initial position of the eccentrics. Twist the eccentrics of one lens, which one you choose yourself, roughly looking through binoculars and at a distant object (it moves away from the object more strongly).
You should not touch the prisms of the USSR binoculars, they are fixed in the seats and do not have adjusting screws, if they are lost, look for the master.

I never found a repair shop in Moscow, who knows, tell me.

Astronomy lovers and many ordinary people often enjoy simply observing the starry sky through binoculars. The enchanting picture of the sky, with a large field of view visible with both eyes, is sometimes simply mesmerizing.

Unfortunately, for various reasons (either dropping it or getting a used copy), this pleasure can deteriorate.

Many binoculars wearers have noticed clear double vision or some eye fatigue after even short observation. It's all about misalignment or lack of parallelism of the exit pupils. When the magnitude of double vision is small, the human brain, thanks to the innate binocularity of vision, compensates for this subconsciously, trying to bring two familiar pictures into one. The most difficult thing is to get rid of such a "built-in compensator" during the adjustment procedure itself. How can this be done in practice? I have tried many of the available i.e. without special devices of the methods described on the Internet. This is the definition, and the reduction with adjusting screws of the parallelism of the horizontal (for example, along the roofs or the horizon) and the vertical (along the pipes and towers). For example, Unfortunately, they are all very approximate and not accurate enough. Due to the above physiological effect, all attempts at accurate information are almost impossible.

But recently, I am adjusting another device, I came across a method proposed on the forum for a bright distant point light source, or a bright star. Only he has sufficient accuracy, with relative simplicity.

I will try to describe the complete step-by-step procedure for adjusting the binoculars equipped with special screws.

single star view of unadjusted binoculars

single star view with defocused eyepiece

Using a clock screwdriver, we rotate screws 1 and 2, achieving the alignment of the light sources. The adjustment range may not be enough, then you will have to grab the other half of the binoculars, and rotate exactly the same way to achieve the ideal.

Correct star image

Exit pupil method

Having practiced on a couple of copies, I want to offer another method, with greater accuracy. I found that in the daytime (or even bright twilight), uneven illumination of the exit pupils is noticeable, at a small distance from the eyepiece. Therefore, if you look at the sky through binoculars from a distance of about 5-7 cm, you will see a peculiar picture: a circle with some darkening in the center. Just use this effect to blend the picture for both eyes. There is something to make a visual reference. By aiming the binoculars at a bright light (I used Venus), you can very accurately adjust without defocusing. Just a bifurcated image of a star (or a planet in my case) using the same adjusting screws, we can easily combine it into one. At the same time, I did not notice eye fatigue from such an unusual picture, you can easily "force" the brain to combine vision precisely on this dark circle. not on the star. Plus the considerable distance to the eyepieces makes it possible to make the exit pupils truly parallel.

In conclusion, for the owners of binoculars without external adjustment screws, I will advise other methods of adjustment. This can be loosening or light tightening of the threaded lens ring by turning a special adjusting ring (if any), a lining of gaskets for tubes, etc. The principle of control remains the same.