Do-it-yourself brown 4191 blender repair

Good afternoon, in a blender (I don't remember the model - 600W) the following problem: the motor is running, but under load, neither the knife nor the whisk rotates. Rotates at idle speed. Post-warranty repair, how much will it cost and how long will the repair take? Thank you.

Alexander user
July 4, 2011 at 01:51 AM #

Hello! I have the same problem. Blender 600W (Type: 4191). The motor operates in all power ranges, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. I suppose the problem is with the reducer. Post-warranty repair, how much will it cost and how long will the repair take? Thanks in advance.

Sergey user
July 27, 2011 at 11:46 PM #

Good day!
If you are in Kiev, go to the service center - st. Glubochitskaya, 53, office 404
Tel: 044-428-65-06.
In another city? Let us know, we will suggest the address of the service center.

Larisa Zagura user
November 4, 2011 at 20:30 #

Hello! B and my blender has the same problem. Blender 600W (Type: 6550 Multiqick profesional). The motor operates in all power ranges, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. Can it be repaired and how much will it cost to repair it?

Alla user
February 7, 2012 at 07:39 PM #

I advise, they charged 80 UAH from me for repairing this problem. enough for one week!
I took over the repair myself, pulled out the black drive on the bushing with thin pliers
and dripped a little glue, then put it back on the axle. And it worked.

Valya user
January 20, 2013 at 05:04 PM #

The reason that it does not spin under load is simple, on a black adapter (easily pulled out with the help of round-nose pliers) on the blender itself, the edges are licked, just put some paper or something at your discretion and everything works fine.

sergey user
June 17, 2013 at 03:54 PM #

Sergey and Valik have a huge respect and respect, I almost ruined this device into the trash, 6 seconds and everything works.

Eugene user
August 3, 2013 at 09:22 AM #

I put a cambric on the axis of the engine. Everything is working.

Artalex user
August 11, 2013 at 01:40 PM #

And the task is even more difficult: if the motor is running and all the attachments except the whisk (with which the cream for the cake is made? The problem is this: the motor turns
the nozzle itself, but the ik veins do not spin, but makes a crackle? I would have done it myself if I knew how the nozzle is disassembled. Who can help you? Dnipropetrovsk

vadim user
August 12, 2013 at 09:33 AM #

Good afternoon, Vadim!
These blenders are considered non-repairable and no spare parts are produced for them.
If it is not under warranty, I can only advise you to buy a new motor

Alexander moderator
12 August 2013 at 09:53 #

The motor works fine. Other attachments spin just fine too. Only this nozzle whisk does not rotate - it cracks, but the whisk itself does not rotate. I thought that the whisk could be disassembled, so I asked this question. I thought that I probably need to buy a new whisk or pick it up from someone whose blender is broken.
Thank you for responding to my appeal.

Vadim user
August 12, 2013 at 12:25 PM #

So it can be a problem in the gearbox from the whisk.
If with other attachments, if everything is good, then the problem is in it.

Alexander moderator
August 12, 2013 at 01:12 PM #

Most likely, indeed, the problem is in the gearbox.

Thanks for helping me figure out the problem.

Vadim user
November 28, 2013 at 08:44 PM #

I am looking for a motor block coupling
buy or tell me where to buy
Blender 600W

Julia user
November 29, 2013 at 09:50 AM #

Hello Julia.
Braun engine blocks are considered non-repairable and the manufacturer does not produce spare parts for them.
If the warranty is over, I can only offer a new motor unit.
There are homemade products that offer solutions, but this is not for us. We are the official Braun service!

Alexander moderator
March 14, 2014 at 12:09 PM #

My slots were ripped off. Put paper from a pack of cigarettes while it helped.

ivan user
September 11, 2014 at 14:21 #

Good afternoon, we need to fix the motor unit of the Brown blender, the problem at first was in turning it on (the button fell down), then it stopped turning on altogether.
Are you doing this kind of renovation?
Thank you

Lesya user
September 11, 2014 at 04:31 PM #

Motor units from Braun hand blenders are not repairable. A new one is bought - in the catalog.

IBS Service moderator
April 28, 2015 at 08:43 AM #

Hello, the adjustable switch button does not work, the turbo works, can you tell me what's the matter? Thanks.

Timur user
April 28, 2015 at 03:23 PM #

There are many options, but these motor units are not repairable.
Only a new one can offer - Braun 67051239.

Alexander moderator
August 24, 2015 at 11:44 am #

Hello! In the blender, all the attachments work, only the reducer that is put on the bowl has stopped working. The parts that are in the center of the gearbox do not spin (the knife is inserted there on one side, and the blender on the other side), I do not know what they are called.

Irina user
August 25, 2015 at 12:43 PM #

Alexander moderator
August 25, 2015 at 02:16 PM #

Can't you fix the old one?

Irina user
August 26, 2015 at 11:41 AM #

They are not repaired - a new one is bought.

Alexander moderator
November 1, 2015 at 09:07 AM #

Blender braun 600 turbo type 4191. The gear cover is broken, tell me the catalog number.

Alexander user
November 2, 2015 at 10:03 AM #

This model has 4 different bowls (in terms of volume) and, accordingly, reducer lids.
Look at the cup with two letters on the side wall and here are all the lids for this model. (by these letters you will find the necessary one)

Alexander moderator
August 22, 2016 at 11:28 PM #

Good day!
The gearbox (for whipping) and the grinder of the braun 600 watt turbo blender cannot be inserted into the electric motor after the nozzle (working shaft) has worked before. Can you tell me how to fix the problem?
Thank you for your prompt response!

Alla user
August 23, 2016 at 05:04 PM #

Alla user
August 9, 2017 at 11:28 am #

How long does it take to repair a blender? Are you going to the place?

Vasily user
August 10, 2017 at 01:14 PM #

Only to us you can bring to the service center or send by Nova Poshta.

xarl,

There is such a part in the inside, I tried to turn it, but there maybe you need some kind of key in the form of a tube with an internal diameter of 21 cm in which there would be 4 protrusions, they can probably turn this part!

There may be a fuse in the winding, or the winding itself has fallen off somewhere, because it warmed up then be healthy (in front of a coma!).

I raised the topic earlier. Conclusion - nothing, if after disassembly it must assemble and work. I don't remember the details.

vovanfun, this part will not turn. You will understand after you disassemble it with a more barbaric method.
I was seduced, I cut out the key with a specialist.

Klinanuli engines - already 2 pieces passed through my hands with a similar defect - in one only a resistor, in the other there is also a symistor to a heap and the track is burnt. In the second, the owners admitted that the device was jammed, but they did not turn it off immediately.

Today I disassembled the same blender, only with a slightly different number: Type: 4191

I'll start from the end: there was a problem with the transfer of rotation to the working body. All the advisers began to talk about gears, so there was not even a thought, there are no gears! And accordingly there was nothing to break, except for a black piece, through which rotation is transmitted to the working body. There is a notch on the shaft, and this black plastic wiped off when the blender jammed. But she did not want to shoot, as the melted plastic flowed out above the notch, and formed a side there.

And now about the disassembly itself (since there are no pictures, I will indicate the diameters and other sizes of the places that need to be picked - at least some kind of reference point:

... Attention, you should not try to twist a crap made of yellow-transparent plastic that looks like a nut with four protrusions, as advised at the beginning of the topic. This is part of the engine body, and it is firmly clamped by iron clamps-locks. There will be nothing for the clamps, and you can pull out the plastic from there "with meat" as you can't do. ...

1. You still need to remove the white, tapered part, on which the model is stamped, and other numbers. Without this, the destruction of the hulls will be terrible.
To remove it, you need to take a screwdriver and from above, insert a screwdriver into the gap (its diameter is 28 mm) between the outer and inner white cone and with careful movements try to crush the inner cylinder “towards the center”, and in the outer cylinder at the same time you need to try to flatten the ring ( only it holds the outer cone-cylinder, not counting the locking buttons). And at the same time, you need to pull this part up. I would not recommend scrolling, since there are edges inside this structure - they break at the same time. The inner cylinder is flexible enough that it quickly takes on the old shape. ... In general, you need to somehow pull out the outer cylinder-cone.

2. Now you can, like other people, pick the glue seam between the THIN blender body and the inner cylinder. The seam is very strong, and if it remains glued at least at one point, then the engine cannot be knocked out with a hammer. As soon as the seam is destroyed, the cone, together with the motor, will EASILY fall out of the body. They are not afraid of damage to the wires - they are not there. All electrical connections are spring-loaded and solder-free.

3. If you suddenly go to separate the white cylinder from the engine, then I came up with, albeit not an ideal technology, but better than complete destruction. The white cylinder is held on to the yellow-transparent plastic of the engine using the same ring as in item 1.
This ring is about 23-24mm from the top edge of the white cylinder. Carefully cut off the plastic from both sides with a knife (otherwise it will not work - there are two ribs that are needed for some reason) so that the groove can be seen. And we put a screwdriver in there to loosen the ring. Somehow the white top hat will come off.

4. I won't tell you how to properly disassemble the upper part (there are very hard latches, but thank God they are ordinary). I will just say that at first the cover-knob of the speed regulator is easily removed, and there you can see at least something.

Message Gorecvv 09 Jul 2012 15:42

... no there is nothing ..
PPC in vain only rubber removed ((((

NOT WHAT IS AN OPTION - ALSO AN OPTION)))

Message bolgar »28 Jul 2012 18:36

Message telect »17 Mar 2013 11:13

Message transfor »17 Mar 2013 11:55

Message telect »17 Mar 2013 12:30

Message transfor »17 Mar 2013 15:48

None, this is a double zener diode - two oppositely switched on.
The name in the color code or voltage on the case, full parameters in the datasheet or reference -
it knows like everything else:

Message telect »15 Sep 2013 18:50

I remembered that I still hadn't fixed it and decided to give it a second chance.
Everything rings out except for this blue element in the middle. what is this?

It does not ring, another one is the same on the other side and a 4W resistor in ceramic insulation. Tried to check with an ohmmeter. Did you do it right?

True, this 4-watt resistor is not for sale with us, there is only 5 watts. can I stick it in there?

Message transfor »15 Sep 2013 19:29

This is the problem that has emerged quite recently. Many consumers have chosen the excellent Braun product as their blender and chopper. One fine moment, while chopping meat, my blender squealed and smoked like a leg on a skewer. The device did not turn on again. A more or less technical person, I decided to disassemble this device and see if it is possible to replace the faulty part.

Blender Brown not yet disassembled

Now the most important thing: THIS BLENDER IS NOT Dismountable.

The following will show the process of trying to disassemble the blender and what came of it.

With the help of force and a screwdriver, we tear off the top cover of the blender. If you see a ring inside, then this is just a dummy. I made my way with this ring for half an hour until I realized that it would not twist off.

Torn off top. Previously, blender attachments were inserted into it. On the left, there is a plastic ring with nozzle latches. I had to pull it out, as it was soldered to the right side tightly.

In order to tear it off, I had to really sweat, since there was no way to get to the clutch. I turned everything clean.

Torn off the top of the Brown blender. Otherwise, it will hardly be possible to dismantle it, although you may be able to do it more accurately.

The powered back cover can be snapped off very easily. You can see the control board through it, but you can't get to anything and pull it out too.

Another type of back cover.There was nothing to break here, but there was absolutely no sense from the open lid.

The case was hastily cut with wire cutters, and the motor is sealed tightly into the case, so there is absolutely no direct access to the motor. By the way, this is also a plus of the design, since it is practically impossible for moisture to get inside, unless you frankly wash the device under the tap.

On the motor, you can see that the plastic has remained on it. picking it out was also laborious, but in the end it snapped off. You could have been more careful if you knew how it snapped in there.

Here is the engine, burned spots are visible on it, but no obvious faults are visible.

Completely disassembled blender. The blender broke a couple of weeks ago, so Brown was bought but of a newer series.

The last attempt to start the blender and the device is sent to the trash.

I bought myself just such a model. The quality is good. If it works in the same mode for 3 years, then this is quite normal 🙂

I hope the article was useful to those who are going to disassemble this wonderful device.

The upper part is fastened by snapping onto the central axle without damaging it - it is unrealistic to remove it. The ring is cut with a knife, then the upper part is simply pushed out (removed). Further - the ass (fused housing with the motor), it is unrealistic to pull out the adhesion place without unraveling. The blender is disposable, and given its cost, it is unreasonable to purchase such a blender. He died after working a total of 1 hour for the entire half year of his existence in the kitchen. Signs of death - either electronics or brushes (which is more likely if we draw an analogy with a drill (began to twitch during operation). I did not disassemble further, I would have to look closely at another model or even another manufacturer.

I work in a service, we don’t take such people for repairs at all ... but FOR myself - I am fixing a marriage.
the body must be carefully cut with a knife about 4 cm long from the regulator, then insert a needle or a thin scalpel into the incision and gently guide it around the circumference, tearing / cutting off the body from the lid. assembly was shrunk and sonicated. after that (not all models.) you can access the control panel, etc. but there will be no beautiful completeness, after which the blender fell into the honorable dead: look, but try not to work. alas, it cannot be repaired.

began to disassemble as shown but immediately stopped. the consequences of such a disassembly: a slide of plastic and individual spare parts. I sawed the body crosswise along the line of the silicone inserts with a metal hacksaw and the blender broke up perfectly. everything that can break is in the sealed case. I was lucky that the engine winding did not burn out. I turned off the blender at the first sign of a breakdown. disassembling the engine, it was not difficult, I cleaned the insides from the scorched plastic (apparently the noise-reducing gasket melted and wound on the shaft) collected and glued the cut with liquid plastic. the view is certainly not marketable and it seems to work louder but still WORKS. but in general I agree that the thing is disposable and does not justify its price.

At the expense of the price, I disagree with you: 2 thousand rubles for such a blender is quite an adequate price, especially if it works for 3 years.

But I have a problem - a gear for cutting vegetables, which is damaged and is now scrolling, and the blender itself also works for about 3-4 years. since such an ass is dismantled with the engine, then the gearbox is probably not even worth trying to disassemble ...

In fact, it's easier to buy a new one, and this one is to disassemble and write an article 🙂

You are not the only one in such trouble. The motors are good - if not overheated, they work for a long time. But the nozzles of the bowls and knives fly quickly. It is not realistic to buy, there are practically no supplies, they cost up to 40% of the motor itself, the attachments are all different in fit. I won't take BRAUN anymore.

This blender worked for me for 7-8 years! in extreme mode, I make cakes and I cook at home too ..therefore it is used 2-3 times a day, and sometimes much more often ... another would not have withstood such a load, but one day it burned out! It’s a pity of course, but I didn’t even think about fixing it 🙂 but now I’m sure of this that I didn’t ask my husband to do it 🙂 less headache. I hope that with such a new model you will be just as lucky

It can be easier to do by drilling 4 holes around the only holding key! when reassembling, already glue!

The second blender is being covered!
And it would not be a shame if they burned down!
Otherwise, the motor runs and turns at idle, but under load only the motor!
The first was sent from Germany and worked for six years, but rarely used it.
The second one bought from our store, and worked for four years, but almost every day!
So I think, take another brand (especially this one is produced in Poland), but what to do with two sets of accessories?

Anatoly, sell as spare parts.
Blender Brown I praise: 10.5 years worked. I use it almost every day, but with great care. Made in Spain.
Grief befell: the 1.5 liter bowl reducer crumbled. I disassembled it, but due to the dust that remained inside I could not figure out how to repair it. I found only a spare parts store in Moscow time.

The wife accidentally dropped the blender, its body cracked, and the blender stopped working. Before that I worked for 11 years! Today I decided to start repairing. I sawed the case carefully and looked at what was the matter. It turned out that just after the impact, the contact between the motor and the board disappeared. Everything is working now. I am writing a message while the body dries after gluing with superglue. I forgot to say that the blender also had the inscription "Made in Spain". So draw your own conclusions!

The blender was lovely. Worked for 10 years faithfully. It was used 3-4 times a week for whipping pancake dough, chopping vegetables, preparing minced fish and poultry, whipping cocktails ... During operation, the whisk and knife for a small chopping bowl were changed (they worked together and became unusable). Made in Spain. Something sparkled from under the speed variator in the engine, it cannot be repaired, the service said so: it is easier to buy a new motor part assembly if the other accessories are intact. But its cost is decent, and with production in Poland - the quality, I think, will not be so perfect. Although, with proper use, excluding overheating, it is quite a worthy product.

I had Polish, worked a total of 10-12 hours, minutes on

10; the armature winding burned out: D, did not check the electronic part. Practically only a whisk was used. It is better to buy something new than to renovate it.

A blender is an integral part of every kitchen that can mix, whip, grind whatever your heart desires. In order for it to always work perfectly, it needs to be cleaned from time to time, but here's how to repair the Brown mixer with your own hands? To deal with this issue, you must have an idea of ​​the main probable problems with such a technique. This is what this article is about.

In order for you to be able to disassemble and repair the Brown blender with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• pliers;
• a narrow, thin knife or a flat and thin screwdriver;
• long and flat screwdriver;
• glue for aeromodelling or superglue;
• hammer.

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To properly disassemble and then repair the "Brown" blender (mixer) and not damage important elements, do everything in accordance with the following algorithm:

• Using the pliers, remove the chuck, also called the bit holder.
• Take a narrow and thin knife or a screwdriver, push this tool between the casing and the body, and then knock out the weld with simple hammer blows.
• Repeat the same action around the housing perimeter until the motor and casing move freely inside the housing.

Important! Be extremely careful around the retainers - never knock them off. Also, do not use a wide knife or a thick screwdriver, as the entire thin outer case may burst.

• Then press in the clips and remove the engine.
• You can pull the motor directly together with the control board itself. If this does not happen, using pliers, pull the edge of the board, so that it can be easily removed.
• Inside you will see 4 back cover latches. Fold out these latches in the direction of the arrows so that the top cover will be in your hands.
• Insert the speed control cap with a screwdriver. Peel back all external power cord retainer clips from the inside.

Important! Be extremely careful when handling the board as it is fragile.

Malfunctions can appear in any technique, but due to the fact that not everyone can afford expensive options, quite often on the forums you can find questions about how to properly disassemble the "Brown" blender, what problems it may have.

This problem is hidden in the knife speed switch.

In a blender and mixer, power plays an incredibly important role. In case you have chosen a blender of insufficient power or of insufficient quality type, the efficiency of work, of course, will be low.

It is possible that something is stuck inside it, or the engine has burned out from overuse.

Important! In certain cases, a decrease in voltage throughout the entire power grid affects in a similar way.

This is most likely a drive or control problem.

This is the most common problem. Such parts can be purchased in almost every brand store. There is no way to repair them, which is why it is necessary to replace them.

In the event that the gearbox is faulty, the device, as a rule, simply does not turn on - such repairs are extremely difficult to carry out with your own hands. Engine Replacement Instructions:

1. Disassemble your device according to the scheme described above.
2. Be sure to read the recommendations from the manufacturer, as well as the technical parameters of this device.
3. Check the on / off and lock buttons - it is quite possible that the problem lies specifically with it. If, when you turn on the blender to the mains, you hear a buzz, then you need to squeeze the contacts, and then test them with a multimeter. In special cases, they do not have the ability to close when turned on.
4. You can buy the engine separately in specialized stores, but such spare parts can be bought separately only for expensive models or for Kenwood HBM, Polaris PHB, Gastrorag food processors.
5. Install the new engine in place of the old one, reassemble and then check the entire system.

Disassembly of the Saturn, Bork and Vitek hand blender is impossible, because their design is made of molded plastic, and a plastic ring is soldered into the base, and it cannot be removed.

Therefore, you only have 2 options to solve this problem if the device has problems:

1. Purchase a new blender. Because it is impossible to repair the device without damaging the case.
2. Solder the panel directly. To connect the body, plastic soldering technologies are used, as a result of which disassembly can be carried out using high-temperature technology. Carefully cut the body and insert a few small needles or metal plates into the cut. Heat them up and then remove the melted plastic. After you have completed the repair, you can glue the plastic back together.

Important! Directly in the body itself is the working part of the blender, specifically: the motor, the spindle and the control unit. This block is a diagram that helps to configure all modes and functions.After disassembly, you can replace all the necessary spare parts with working ones or clean the contacts of your device.