In detail: DIY bmw e39 abs block repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks
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Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks
The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during ice conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.
Video (click to play).
The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency
An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing the sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.
BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking. In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are located throughout the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).
Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold.
Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.
The wheel sensors have also been changed. Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.
After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:
Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.
If the anti-lock braking system light continues to burn, then most likely you will have to go to a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there. Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.
The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.
ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors
After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.
For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.
The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.
The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board
Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.
If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. He may have defects that may appear later.
You can drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.
There are 4 ABS sensors, one on each wheel.
ASC - Dynamic Stability Control System. You can turn it off if you want.
Dynamic Stability Control (ASC) is designed to maintain vehicle control on slippery roads and during harsh maneuvers. It regulates the engine torque and controls the braking mechanisms of each wheel separately.
Dynamic Stability Control is automatically activated when the ignition is turned ON. The system can be deactivated by pressing and holding the ASC OFF switch for 3 seconds or more while the vehicle is at a standstill. When the ASC is deactivated, the message "ASC OFF" appears on the multifunction display. To turn on the system, press the ASC OFF switch again. And again, turn it on and off, only when the car is stationary.
Yes, there is a connection when these bulbs turned on together.In your case, when the warning lamp of the ASC system and the ABS lamp turn on, this indicates that the ASC system is not working. But why and how to fix it - they will help you at the car service.
Good day. Friends today finally figured out the problem of why ASC ABS did not work. I visited different service stations, I went to neighboring regions, I was looking for a good diagnostician, everyone had different diagnoses, changed all four ABS dates, then they said it was necessary to change the rear hub, like he changed everything to VAG, the bitch does not go out severely, again went to the diagnosis and again shows the front left , but what is it, then it is necessary to change the front hub. Explain why, such as the abs sensor does not read the teeth from the hub, I went and bought the front left hub, bitches bitches do not go out. All the electricians came, a lady so I want to sell the car to the burial ground and get ready for it. I wasted already 23 tons, the result is nothing, there is a friend in a neighboring village, too, an electrician went to him, he opened the hood and Beck says you have a torn cable from ASC, you won't believe your friends I didn’t believe him, but I bought a cable from ASC, changed the machine, and both lights went out, and happiness was so stupid.
# 34 Repair of the DSC stabilization unit (ABS) BMW E39 - logbook BMW 5 series Pontorezka 2001 on DRIVE2
Hello everyone! If you have an E39 and you don't know what the problem is, get ready, you will find out soon. This is one of the sores of this BMW model.
The fact is that the DSC electronic stabilization unit is very close to the output manifold, and the heat-insulating screen that goes along the body does not reach the unit. As a result, this block is always heated and over time the soldering in the block begins to be unsoldered from old age. So it happened with me. Traveled with this error for about six months, but soon winter, it was necessary to solve it. I went to the diagnostics, where it was confirmed that it was this unit, and not the pumps, sensors on the wheels and the steering wheel position sensor (these elements are tied to the stabilization system).
Googling, we find out how much this unit costs: DSC new, original (34 52 6 769 862, 34 52 2 285 051) - 98,000 rubles DSC new, refurbished at the factory (34 52 6 752 740) - 67,000 rubles DSC new, under Bosch brand (1265950002) - 33,000 rubles DSC from disassembly - 14,000 rubles
DSC re-soldering - 7,000r (found in the blog
I decided to take it to my colleagues at work. We have a whole group of electronics engineers in our office who could help me. So, let's remove the block. It can be removed very simply: you need to remove the connector and unscrew 6 screws from the T15. If it were not for the gas equipment reducer, access would be generally very convenient, and so I had to take a wrench with a flexible shaft.
We carry the block to the electronics engineers. To open the block, we had to go along the contour with a soldering iron. We open the block and see a diagram with uncased elements, filled with gel, which has not lost its properties for 15 years. The wires are very thin, thinner than human hair, and appear to be either silver or silvered.
We carefully examine the circuit, looking for which wiring has been sealed off.
We try to solder in the center of the circuit, where there are more solders, in order to determine how to solder and choose a solder. As it turned out, it is soldered very poorly, the available solders and other pribluda for soldering workers are not doing very well. But they soldered it. We went to the car, set it up - the error was gone. HOORAY! Think.
We soldered the block itself, and passed it along the contour with a high-temperature sealant. In the evening I put the block back in place, drove off, reach the first intersection and the orange triangle lit up again. Well, I think, damn it, everything is gone, I'll have to send it to Moscow to Bavarian for soldering. Upon arrival home, I wrote to the guy who soldered, says bring it tomorrow we'll see.
In general, the next day in the morning I remove the block again, I carry it to the electronics engineers. We opened it, we look, the wires that were soldered are again sealed off. Those. silver wires do not want to be soldered, replaced them with copper ones. They sealed the block again, put it on the car and a MIRACLE - for the fourth day I've been driving all the buzz, there is no mistake.
Soldering modes: soldered with a soldering iron with a thick tip for 400, with a thin tip 420-450. Indium solder Sn62 CW-802 Activated flux
The wire was taken from MGTF017
Now there are more than one error on the panel, it pleases
I want to say a big thank you to Eugene, who soldered the block for me. Till!
