DIY abs e39 block repair

Useful DIY Tips

DIY abs block repair

BMW 5 series logbook Crystal blue

Repair of the abs block on a bmw e39 with their own

DIY abs block repair

E39 - Problems with the abs block and BMW Club wipers

DIY bmw abs block repair

DIY bmw abs block repair

DIY bmw e39 abs block repair., Detailed video report

DIY abs block repair

Abs block for BMW E39 buy in North Ossetia on Avito - Announcements on the Avito website

Repair of the abs block 8E0614111в passat B5 ... and not only "Autoschemes, diagrams for cars, do it yourself

Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks

DIY abs block repair

repair of the dsc abs block BMW E38

How I repaired the ABS block BMW e53.

Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks

The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during icy conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.

The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency

An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing the sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.

BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking. In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are located throughout the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.

The wheel sensors have also been changed. Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.

After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:

1. Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
2. Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
3. Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
4. Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.

If the anti-lock braking system light continues to burn, then most likely you will have to go to a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there.Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.

The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.

ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors

After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.

For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.

1. Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
2. Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
3. Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
4. We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
5. We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.

If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. He may have defects that may appear later.

It is possible to drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.

The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during icy conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.

The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency

An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing the sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.

BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking.In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are located throughout the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold.

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.

The wheel sensors have also been changed. Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.

After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:

1. Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
2. Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
3. Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
4. Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.

If the anti-lock braking system light continues to burn, then most likely you will have to go to a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there. Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.

The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.

ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors

After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.

For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board

1. Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
2. Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
3. Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
4. We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
5. We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.

If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. He may have defects that may appear later.

It is possible to drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.

There are 4 ABS sensors, one on each wheel.

ASC - Dynamic Stability Control System. You can turn it off if you want.

Dynamic Stability Control (ASC) is designed to maintain vehicle control on slippery roads and during harsh maneuvers. It regulates the engine torque and controls the braking mechanisms of each wheel separately.

Dynamic Stability Control is automatically activated when the ignition is turned ON. The system can be deactivated by pressing and holding the ASC OFF switch for 3 seconds or more while the vehicle is at a standstill. When the ASC is deactivated, the message "ASC OFF" appears on the multifunction display. To turn on the system, press the ASC OFF switch again. And again, turn it on and off, only when the car is stationary.

Yes, there is a connection when these bulbs turned on together. In your case, when the warning lamp of the ASC system and the ABS lamp turn on, this indicates that the ASC system is not working. But why and how to fix it - they will help you at the car service.

Good day. Friends today finally figured out the problem of why ASC ABS did not work. I visited different service stations, I went to neighboring regions, I was looking for a good diagnostician, everyone had different diagnoses, changed all four ABS dates, then they said it was necessary to change the rear hub, like he changed everything to VAG, the bitch does not go out severely, again went to the diagnosis and again shows the front left , but what is it, then it is necessary to change the front hub. Explain why, such as the abs sensor does not read the teeth from the hub, I went and bought the front left hub, the bitches, bitches, bitches do not go out. All the electricians came, a lady so I want to sell the car to the burial ground and get ready. I wasted already 23 tons, the result is nothing, there is a friend in a neighboring village, too, an electrician went to him, he opened the hood and says Beck you have a torn cable from ASC, you will not believe your friends I didn’t believe him, but I bought a cable from ASC, changed the machine, and both lights went out, and happiness was so stupid.

# 34 Repair of the DSC stabilization unit (ABS) BMW E39 - logbook BMW 5 series Pontorezka 2001 on DRIVE2

Hello everyone! If you have an E39 and you don't know what the problem is, get ready, you will find out soon. This is one of the sores of this BMW model.

The fact is that the DSC electronic stabilization unit is very close to the output manifold, and the heat-insulating screen that goes along the body does not reach the unit. As a result, this block is always heated and over time the soldering in the block begins to be unsoldered from old age. So it happened with me. Traveled with this error for about six months, but soon winter, it was necessary to solve it. I went to the diagnostics, where it was confirmed that it was this particular unit, and not the pumps, sensors on the wheels and the steering wheel position sensor (these elements are tied to the stabilization system).

Googling, we find out how much this unit costs: DSC new, original (34 52 6 769 862, 34 52 2 285 051) - 98,000 rubles DSC new, refurbished at the factory (34 52 6 752 740) - 67,000 rubles DSC new, under Bosch brand (1265950002) - 33,000 rubles DSC from disassembly - 14,000 rubles

DSC re-soldering - 7,000r (found in the blog

I decided to take it to my colleagues at work. We have a whole group of electronics engineers in our office who could help me. So, let's remove the block. It can be removed very simply: you need to remove the connector and unscrew 6 screws from the T15. If it were not for the gas equipment reducer, access would be generally very convenient, and so I had to take a wrench with a flexible shaft.

We carry the block to the electronics engineers. To open the block, we had to go along the contour with a soldering iron. We open the block and see a diagram with uncased elements, filled with gel, which has not lost its properties for 15 years.The wires are very thin, thinner than human hair, and appear to be either silver or silvered.

We carefully examine the circuit, looking for which wiring has been sealed off.

We try to solder in the center of the circuit, where there are more solders, in order to determine how to solder and choose a solder. As it turned out, it is soldered very poorly, the available solders and other pribluda for soldering workers are not doing very well. But they soldered it. We went to the car, set it up - the error was gone. HOORAY! Think.

We soldered the block itself, and passed it along the contour with a high-temperature sealant. In the evening I put the block back in place, drove off, reach the first intersection and the orange triangle lit up again. Well, I think, damn it, everything is gone, I'll have to send it to Moscow to Bavarian for soldering. Upon arrival home, I wrote to the guy who soldered, says bring it tomorrow we'll see.

In general, the next day in the morning I remove the block again, I carry it to the electronics engineers. We opened it, we look, the wires that were soldered are again sealed off. Those. silver wires do not want to be soldered, replaced them with copper ones. They sealed the block again, put it on the car and a MIRACLE - for the fourth day I've been driving all the buzz, there is no mistake.

Soldering modes: soldered with a soldering iron with a thick tip for 400, with a thin tip 420-450. Indium solder Sn62 CW-802 Activated flux

The wire was taken from MGTF017

Now there are more than one error on the panel, it pleases

I want to say a big thank you to Eugene, who soldered the block for me. Till!

• Like
• I do not like

andreynt1 25 Mar 2010

bought a new block for BMW from 39 0 269 900 001

Abs earned and antibuks not in abs there is an error Variable coding

Dear Guru, tell me how to register it? what programs can I do it? Lunch

or where can i see step-by-step instructions?

• Like
• I do not like

Kutuzoff Mar 25, 2010

They are usually prescribed with a ballpoint pen. Well, or feather - depending on who is used to what)))))))))

You can encode the block either with native diagnostics (DIS), or with the BMW engineering program. As far as I remember, Lunch cannot code.

• Like
• I do not like

deusex 25 Mar 2010

• Like
• I do not like

andreynt1 25 Mar 2010

There is a Karmanskan! How do you not know?

Where can I see the procedure? for the encoding of the Abs block?

There is a Karmanskan! How do you not know?

Where can I see the procedure? for the encoding of the Abs block?

Multibrands - most likely, none can.
All infa about BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

• Like
• I do not like

andreynt1 25 Mar 2010

yes your face is not angry

Tell me what programs can make this miracle?

All infa about BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

Is this information in Russian? and where can you read it?

• Like
• I do not like

StasAV 25 Mar 2010

yes your face is not angry

Tell me what programs can make this miracle?

All infa about BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

Is this information in Russian? and where can you read it?

1) “my face” does not know how to be angry.
2) native BMW - DIS, Progman, NCS.
3) there is.
4) “kettle” is not a vice. if you are lazy, you will remain so

• Like
• I do not like

Bmwm 06 Aug 2010

Hello everyone!
I coded ABS / DSC on 2001 E39 with NCS.
Took about 15 minutes.

I Coding.
1. Launch the NCS Expert program
2. Select a profile (Load Profil) For example Expertmode?
3. We identify the car (we get the Master code)
a) Press F1 (VIN / ZCS / FA)
b) Next, press F3 (ZCS / FA f. ECU), select the body of the encoded car and take the main code from the available ECUs (for example, from EWS, IKE or KMB)
4. Press F6 (Back), a list of blocks available for encoding appears.
5. Select the block F3 requiring coding (Choose ECU)

1 ABS / ASC / ABD Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake / limited-slip differential
2 ABS. DSC 2 Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake / limited-slip differential
Dynamic Stability Control 2

You need to choose according to your block, most likely you have option 1 ABS / ASC / ABD Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake / limited-slip differential

We see JOBNAME = SG_CODIEREN this means that when you press F2 (Execute job), this is the Execute Key - the block will be encoded (SG_CODIEREN).

When you click on F1 (Change job), this is the key for changing the work - it is possible to change the operation that we wake up to perform on the block, for example, it was JOBNAME = SG_CODIEREN selected INFO on the screen began to be displayed JOBNAME = INFO means the block will not be encoded but the INFO operation will be performed
===================
Those.first we read the main code, and then we encode the block to be installed with it (in your case, ABS / ASC / ABD)
Just don't write it off and do everything carefully.
Attached file NCS_Expert_Tools_Coding_Contorl.rar, in pdf - it is clearly shown what needs to be done.

• Like
• I do not like

Bmwm 09 Aug 2010

• Like
• I do not like

SVR 09 Aug 2010

• Like
• I do not like

megars 10 Aug 2010

• Like
• I do not like

lexa-dok 31 oct 2010

• Like
• I do not like

mike880 09 Nov 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Alex07 09 Nov 2010

With what fright the ABS unit. 001 antibuks should support? It only supports DSC. And the block is different there and the connector and the attachment.

• Like
• I do not like

AVATAR Nov 12, 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Dell 16 Nov 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Kutuzoff 17 Nov 2010

The new block is encoded as I wrote Bmwm, plus he also asks to do something like commissioning (for this reason, there is an error in the ABS unit), this procedure consists in a visual check of the brake lines, the amount of brake fluid, the condition of the pads, etc. after which it will confirm that everything is “OK” in the program and this error disappears. There is no such moment with CU blocks.

Wow - eyes pop out of the yellow head and inspect the car. Guys, pour it off, otherwise the brute force has already gone.

PS We read the test block carefully - everything is very simple.

The complete set of the BMW E39 car includes a system that unlocks the wheels during emergency braking. This system is included in most new vehicles. The main function of ABS is that in a critical situation it prevents the wheels from completely blocking during hard braking. This system also helps to better control the machine during hard braking. This mainly happens when entering a bend and also on an ice-covered road. The ABS system includes:

• Control block.
• System breakdown lamp. It is located in the passenger compartment on the dashboard.
• Special sensors located on BMW wheels.

An electronic device, which is located in the control device, performs the function of monitoring the appearance of problems in the system itself. In the event of a breakdown, a light comes on on the information panel, and the system itself ceases to function. Driving a car in such a situation is allowed, but with a sharp braking, the car will weigh itself differently. Almost any BMW E39 driver can diagnose and fix problems in the system.

After the vehicle has been factory tested, the ABC system begins. In this case, the lamp in the passenger compartment on the torpedo lights up for 3 seconds. After the elapsed time, the light goes out. If the indicator has not gone out, you should do the following:

1. If the car was moving, it should be stopped and the engine turned off. It should take 3 minutes. Then start the car again.
2. The voltage in the battery should be checked - 10.5 W.
3. It is necessary to check the terminals and power wires.
4. View all wires that go to the wheel sensors.

If the light bulb continues to work, you should contact a BMW service professional for diagnostics. With the help of a special electronic device, information is read from the unit and the point of the problem is determined.

To understand that there is a problem with the E39 ABS unit, you can notice a different behavior of the car:

1. No communication with sensors on wheels.
2. Installing new sensors does not solve this problem.
3. The order of destruction of the block by sensors: left - behind; right - in front; front - left; the back is on the right.
4. The speedometer stops working.
5. Indicators on the instrument panel in the passenger compartment are illuminated to indicate a problem.
6. After warming up the BMW vehicle, the system is automatically deactivated.
7. ABC turns off when driving on uneven road surfaces.

An independent check must begin with the cycle number sensors. The device is bolted to the hub. Therefore, remove the brake disc assembly and other parts. The bolts can be unscrewed with a special hex key, counterclockwise. For better removal, sprinkle the bolts with WD-40 (a special tool - wedge).

After removing the sensor, disconnect the connector located on the upper wing. You should also check the wires for integrity. If a wire is found to be damaged, it must be replaced with a new one; twisting and insulation are not suitable in this case. The wire needs the same length and the same cross-section. Sensor resistance 0.9-1.3 kOhm.

In the BMW E39 until 1999, there were no problems with the anti-lock braking system. But newer car releases have such a weak spot. This is due to an unsuccessful fixation of the control unit. It is located near the power unit. To restore the hydroelectronic unit after 1999, a rosin and tin soldering iron will be required.

The weak point of the control unit is the conductors that connect the connector to the device board. Contact is lost precisely at this point. This is due to constant vibration as well as sudden changes in temperature.

1. Remove the cover from the unit using a large knife or a hacksaw.
2. Carefully remove the protection layer from the edge of the board. You do not need to remove the entire layer. Need access to guides. They are made of aluminum and run from the board to the connector. Use a regular needle to check the contact. The needle should be lightly pricked into the guidewire.
3. With tweezers or tweezers, the conductor is removed without contact. And a new one is put in its place using soldering. The best conductor is copper wire. The same cross-section and alloy wire from the mobile phone charger.
4. There are 16 wires connected to the connector itself. They all need to be checked. If there is no conductivity, the wire changes in the same way.
5. Before installing the cover in its place, you should use a sealant. The block returns to its place in the car. High pressure pipes and sensor contacts are connected to it.

If the ABS unit has already been repaired, then it cannot be repaired again. Purchase a new one from a specialist store. Do not drip this block on the workbenches. Most often it has defects.

It is permitted to operate a BMW with a broken ABS system, but this is the safety of the driver, passengers and others.

The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during ice conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.

The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency

An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing the sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.

BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking. In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are spaced around the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold.

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.

The wheel sensors have also changed. Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.

After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:

1. Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
2. Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
3. Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
4. Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.

If the anti-lock braking system lamp continues to burn, then most likely you will have to contact a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there. Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.

The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.

ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors

After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.

For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board

1. Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
2. Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
3. Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
4. We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
5. We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.

If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. He may have defects that may appear later.

You can drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.

There are 4 ABS sensors, one on each wheel.

ASC - Dynamic Stability Control System. You can turn it off if you want.

Dynamic Stability Control (ASC) is designed to maintain vehicle control on slippery roads and during harsh maneuvers. It regulates the engine torque and controls the braking mechanisms of each wheel separately.

Dynamic Stability Control is automatically activated when the ignition is turned ON. The system can be deactivated by pressing and holding the ASC OFF switch for 3 seconds or more while the vehicle is at a standstill. When the ASC is deactivated, the message "ASC OFF" appears on the multifunction display. To turn on the system, press the ASC OFF switch again. And again, turn it on and off, only when the car is stationary.

Yes, there is a connection when these lights turn on together. In your case, when the warning lamp of the ASC system and the ABS lamp turn on, this indicates that the ASC system is not working. But why and how to fix it - they will help you at the car service.

Good day. Friends today finally figured out the problem of why ASC ABS did not work. I visited different service stations, I went to neighboring regions, I was looking for a good diagnostician, everyone had different diagnoses, changed all four ABS dates, then they said it was necessary to change the rear hub, like he changed everything to VAG, the bitch does not go out severely, again went to the diagnosis and again shows the front left , but what is it, then it is necessary to change the front hub. Explain why, such as the abs sensor does not read the teeth from the hub, I went and bought the front left hub, bitches bitches do not go out. All the electricians came, a lady so I want to sell the car to the burial ground and get ready for it. I wasted already 23 tons, the result is nothing, there is a friend in a neighboring village, too, an electrician went to him, he opened the hood and Beck says you have a torn cable from ASC, you won't believe your friends I didn’t believe him, but I bought a cable from ASC, changed the machine, and both lights went out, and happiness was so stupid.

# 34 Repair of the DSC stabilization unit (ABS) BMW E39 - logbook BMW 5 series Pontorezka 2001 on DRIVE2

Hello everyone! If you have an E39 and you don't know what the problem is, get ready, you will find out soon. This is one of the sores of this BMW model.

The fact is that the DSC electronic stabilization unit is very close to the outlet manifold, and the heat-insulating screen that goes along the body does not reach the unit. As a result, this block is always heated and over time the soldering in the block begins to be unsoldered from old age. So it happened with me. Traveled with this error for about six months, but soon winter, it was necessary to solve it. I went to the diagnostics, where it was confirmed that it was this unit, and not the pumps, sensors on the wheels and the steering wheel position sensor (these elements are tied to the stabilization system).

Googling, we find out how much this unit costs: DSC new, original (34 52 6 769 862, 34 52 2 285 051) - 98,000 rubles DSC new, refurbished at the factory (34 52 6 752 740) - 67,000 rubles DSC new, under Bosch brand (1265950002) - 33,000 rubles DSC from disassembly - 14,000 rubles

DSC re-soldering - 7,000r (found in the blog

I decided to take it to my colleagues at work. We have a whole group of electronics engineers in our office who could help me. So, let's remove the block. It can be removed very simply: you need to remove the connector and unscrew 6 screws from the T15. If it were not for the gas equipment reducer, access would be generally very convenient, and so I had to take a wrench with a flexible shaft.

We carry the block to the electronics engineers. To open the block, we had to go along the contour with a soldering iron. We open the block and see a diagram with uncased elements, filled with gel, which has not lost its properties for 15 years. The wires are very thin, thinner than human hair, and appear to be either silver or silvered.

We carefully examine the circuit, looking for which wiring has been sealed off.

We try to solder in the center of the circuit, where there are more solders, in order to determine how to solder and choose a solder. As it turned out, it is soldered very poorly, the available solders and other pribluda for soldering workers are not doing very well. But they soldered it. We went to the car, set it up - the error was gone. HOORAY! Think.

We soldered the block itself, and passed it along the contour with a high-temperature sealant. In the evening I put the block back in place, drove off, reach the first intersection and the orange triangle lit up again. Well, I think, damn it, everything is gone, I'll have to send it to Moscow to Bavarian for soldering. Upon arrival home, I wrote to the guy who soldered, says bring it tomorrow we'll see.

In general, the next day in the morning I remove the block again, I carry it to the electronics engineers. We opened it, we look, the wires that were soldered are again sealed off. Those. silver wires do not want to be soldered, replaced them with copper ones. They sealed the block again, put it on the car and a MIRACLE - for the fourth day I've been driving all the buzz, there is no mistake.

Soldering modes: soldered with a soldering iron with a thick tip for 400, with a thin tip 420-450. Indium solder Sn62 CW-802 Activated flux

The wire was taken from MGTF017

Now there are more than one error on the panel, it pleases

I want to say a big thank you to Eugene, who soldered the block for me. Till!