In detail: do-it-yourself abs e39 block repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks
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Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks
The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during icy conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.
Video (click to play).
The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency
An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing the sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.
BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking. In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are located throughout the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).
Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.
The wheel sensors have also been changed. Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.
After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:
Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.
If the anti-lock braking system light continues to burn, then most likely you will have to go to a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there.Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.
The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.
ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors
After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.
For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.
The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.
Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.
If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly.He may have defects that may appear later.
It is possible to drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.
The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during icy conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.
The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency
An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing the sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.
BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking.In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are located throughout the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).
Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold.
Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.
The wheel sensors have also been changed. Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.
After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:
Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.
If the anti-lock braking system light continues to burn, then most likely you will have to go to a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there. Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.
The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.
ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors
After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.
For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.
The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.
The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board
Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.
If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. He may have defects that may appear later.
It is possible to drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.
