DIY Honda Accord abs block repair

It was: periodically the lamp of malfunction of ABS, electric power steering was switched on.

After renovation: everything functions flawlessly.

In general, ABS control units have had a number of features before. Firstly, they used to represent 2, and sometimes 3 different parts, which were divided into a valve body with solenoid valves, an electronic ABS control unit and, if there was, then also a separate control unit for directional stability. Moreover, the control units themselves had the most common printed circuit board, connectors, etc.

In this combination, the ABS systems had a number of external problems, such as sensor defects, wire breaks and short circuits. There were problems with connectors and connectors, bad contacts. There were flaws in the printed circuit boards themselves and the elements. Moreover, the printed circuit boards themselves were quite easily repairable, the components were affordable.

After some time, the manufacturers of ABS blocks decided to change the manufacturing technology of the boards for ABS blocks. The goal was to increase the reliability of the system by getting rid of unnecessary connectors and wires. Namely, the electronic part of the system (the control unit itself) and a set of valves with a pump were decided to be placed in one housing. Due to the lack of the possibility at that time of some custom-made elements that needed to fit in one tiny place, it was decided to immediately order a board in the form of a hybrid circuit on a ceramic substrate. Inside the block, such a circuit was a ceramic pad with deposited resistors and soldered capacitors. The microcircuits themselves were unpackaged there, which made it possible to save space. And to the ceramic board, a connection was made with small gold-plated or silver-plated wires.

This method had several advantages. Firstly, it turned out to achieve what the manufacturer wanted - to get rid of unnecessary wires. Secondly, it was possible to place as many as 2 control units with power cascades on an area of ​​3x4 centimeters. It was both the ABS unit and the ESP unit. Everything turned out very well, even nothing. If only it were not for another problem - the system has become very sensitive to temperature changes and vibrations. The first thing we got was the detached conductors from the hybrid board itself. Although there weren't really that many problems.

However, the ability to manufacture PCBs with more than 2 layers and the availability of custom ICs with a high sampling rate allowed the transition to the 3rd generation of ABS units, where a regular PCB was again used. Only in this case everything was housed in one enclosure of the ABS unit. We managed to get rid of the defects of the hybrid circuit, but nevertheless, some problems remained.

Even Japanese electronics manufacturers have stepped on this rake. Europeans did not lag behind them. A defective printed circuit board here leads to the inoperability of the system. To fix it, you first need to get to the board itself. The block is "trepanned", excellent access is obtained. After repairing the board defect, the unit is sealed. You can operate the car without worrying about problems with ABS and stability control.

However, there was a defect with the block on our Honda Accord, which is not typical for ABS blocks of modern European manufacturers. Here there was a non-contact of the conductors connecting the printed circuit board with a group of external connectors, which led to a periodic system failure. The conductors have been replaced with MGTF stranded wires, everything has been tested and works perfectly.

The following does not belong to me, but I think it will come in handy)

KOKOREV Vasily Vladimirovich, Kurgan

Continuing the topic (link with pictures I give html? Start = 1):
In continuation of the article published on the site by Sergey from 13.01.2003. (for which many thanks).
When repairing the ABS sensor, I tried to record all my actions. A digital camera is always at hand, so illustrated, step-by-step operations turned out.

Background: with an interval of five days, both front ABS sensors (Toyota Carina E, sensor code - 89542-05020, 89543-05020) failed, ABS error indication, reading of fault codes gave - an open circuit of the sensors (photo 1, 2).

The resistance between the terminals of both sensors showed zero. True, I still do not understand, and I will be grateful to everyone who can tell you the reason for this breakdown of the sensors. Naturally, the thought immediately came to mind of a wire break between the sensor connector and the sensor itself. I stepped back 10 cm from the sensor and cut the wire, the resistance measurement gave the same result. Then I cut the wire as much as possible to the sensor body, and again the result is the same. My next steps were actions to gradually saw off part of the sensor body from the wire side, and so several iterations - sawing off, measuring resistance. By such actions, I reached the part of the case with the mount. I was disappointed, as a result of two hours of painstaking work, there was no result, thoughts flashed in my head: “I'll have to pay $ 200 for sensors”. But interest still took its toll. Moreover, one of the sensors has already been disassembled by half. And I decided to go all the way. The next step, with a vernier caliper, measured the parameters of the sensor - the length from the mount to the tip - 22mm, diameter 17mm (photo 3).

The next step is to saw off the part of the sensor with the coil inside. Using a metal saw, carefully, so as not to spoil the sensor mount, make a cut between the mount and the working part of the sensor. Feeling that the saw blade has reached the metal (this is a sensor magnet, (unfortunately it is half in the sensor mount) we cut a cut around the sensor and then carefully disconnect the sensor mount from the coil (photo 4, 5)

The next step is to remove the plastic sheath from the sensor coil without damaging the coil. (photo 6, 7).

To do this, we cut through the extreme part of the coil, slightly touching the coil winding (photo 6), then pry the shell from the side of the winding with a sharp object and remove it. They breathed a sigh of relief, the coil body is not damaged. This is followed by the tedious part of winding up the wire, and in the end we end up with an intact coil frame (photo 7).

The next step, one of the most critical, is winding a new coil. I used a similar wire from the RES-8 relay coil, however, it is slightly thinner than the original one (judging by the filling of the coil - the original coil frame is almost completely filled, I got less), but I don't have a device that measures the wire diameter and therefore I had to act on eye. You can wind up as Sergey advised in a previous article with an electric drill with a speed controller. The wire is really thin, the slightest mistake and it breaks. Proceeding from this, it is better not to rush - you will drive quieter further. (photo 8).

We wind the largest possible amount, tear off the wire, and make the first resistance measurement. The resistance according to the manual should be in the range of 0.92 - 1.22 kOhm. After several iterations of unwinding the wire and measuring, we solder the leads, it is desirable to make the conclusions from a stranded wire. Next, we strengthen the leads and isolate the coil. We make a control measurement of resistance (you never know in the process of soldering, insulating, etc., there was a wire break). After the conclusions are fixed (by the way, you can fix them by winding several turns of thread), you can already breathe a sigh of relief - the coil is ready. (photo 9)

The most important work has been done, you can proceed to the formation of a durable sensor body. To do this, you will need: glue based on epoxy resins. You can use our Russian epoxy glue, but I used state glue from Done Deal.Unlike ours, it sets in four minutes and completely polymerizes in 1 hour. The casting mold was used from the body of an electrolytic capacitor with an inner diameter of 17mm. I cut off the bottom of the capacitor, took out all the insides from it. Then, in the opposite side, in the center, I made a hole for the coil core. We solder the coil leads to the sensor wire. We prepare the glue, pour it into the case from under the condenser and immerse the entire structure there. (Photo 10).

We wait 1 hour, and carefully using pliers or pliers, remove the capacitor case from the coil. As a result, we get a ready-made sensor (photo 11).

It remains a little to prepare the sensor mount and glue them to each other. We drill a hole in the sensor mount along the diameter of the coil body (17mm). Next, we measure 22mm from the spout of the coil core, put on the mount to this mark and glue it. The main thing is to observe the perpendicularity of these parts, otherwise in the future, when you have to attach to the wheel hub, there may be installation problems. (photo 12, 13).

Final steps: we try to insert the sensor into place, if necessary, carefully remove the layer of glue with emery paper until the sensor can easily enter the hole. We check the distance between the teeth on the hub and the sensor core (according to the manual, the distance should be 0.9 - 1.1 mm), if required, use a gasket. Well, for the sake of aesthetics, as a final operation, we paint the sensor with black paint from a spray can.

Everything is ready, we connect the sensor to the connector, turn on the ignition and get the long-awaited result - the ABS display went out after 3 seconds. The ABS brain didn't even notice the change. Naturally, the performance of the ABS must be checked in action and the braking result obtained.

The sensor broke down as expected - the part with the screw broke off from the coil itself, the coil remained inside the fist and there was no way to pull it out. Then he drilled the winding and gouged it all out with an awl.
I wanted to keep the sensor body, but failed. Only the core remained intact. Well, I took a caliper and took measurements. Next, I made a frame using the core as a mandrel for gluing the cylindrical part. I made the cylindrical part itself a little longer than necessary. After gluing, the core was taken out and replaced with a metal rod (like a mandrel, it is more convenient to work with it).
Further, I cut out the side parts of the coil from thick paper to size and glued them, according to the required dimensions. Then I soaked the whole coil with Super-glue, dried it, dries quickly (on the battery).

If the end part of the old coil remains on it, then it must be removed, there is a magnet under it. If the old conclusions fall away, it doesn't matter. We halve the part that is outside, where the external wire fits. We find contacts there and pierce holes next to them. Now the terminals of the windings can be pushed into them and soldered. We measure the resistance from the block - we are OK, i.e. did not cut anything off. Well, a second sigh of relief. The coil on the base holds well enough, the magnet is strong, but just in case a few drops of the same glue will not interfere. Everything, insert, tighten the bolt - to hell with it, with a gap between the base of the sensor and the fist! The pad is thick. We plug in the connector, turn on the ignition - the ABS display goes out after 3 seconds - well, we hit the resistance. We put the wheel on, go - the display does not light up (there is a chance that the signal level is not sufficient), we brake to the floor and, lo and behold, the pedal twitched!
Mustache! Working.

We go to the garage, cover the gap with sislikon sealant, screw on all the clamps, and that's EVERYTHING! There was a thought that the signal level would not be sufficient - then either the core is far from the cogwheel - it is necessary to move it, or increase the number of turns in the winding, but it seemed to work out.
But there are no pictures, there was no confidence in success, and then everything was very artisanal and primitively done right in the kitchen

Increase font A A A

This is how the block looked initially, after unscrewing the fastening screws:

Next, let's take a look at the same block, which has already been disassembled. Let's analyze it again.

Block together with a fastener.

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I put on GD1 from GD3, without removing the middle part of the modulator, so as not to bleed the brakes. I changed the motor and the microcircuit. Works without problems.

Post has been edited egorlunev – 17.9.2013, 17:04

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interesting situevina.
when the ignition is turned on, the ABS lamp on the tidy lights up and goes out.
But! the wires to the two ABS sensors are just torn off) and ABS naturally does not work.
elm327 only shows lambda error.

what is this and how to understand it?

where can you start diagnostics? maybe the abs is somehow turned off altogether?

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Most likely it coincided. Check the gap (according to the manual 0.5mm), ring the wires.

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Help me figure out the abs. I bought it with a non-working one. There are two errors - 14 and 51.
The sensor was replaced, the abs motor too. I reset the errors, no change, after 200 m it will light up again. The same errors as before the replacement.
The fuses are intact.

Post has been edited DenisKA67 – 12.2.2014, 20:21

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Post has been edited DenisKA67 – 12.2.2014, 20:18

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Have you checked the fuses in the engine compartment? Did you check the performance of the motor? I took off my brushes and replaced it, but he hums and does not twist, the winding has shorted out.

Post has been edited bobr5551 – 12.2.2014, 20:56

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DTC 11, 13, 15, 17: Wheel Speed ​​Sensor (open circuit / short to ground / short to power)

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Disconnect the 25P connector from the ABS electronics.
3. Reconnect the battery cable.
4. Start the engine.
5. Measure the voltage between vehicle ground and terminals + B and GND of the corresponding wheel sensor at the 25P connector of the ABS control unit (see table).

Is there tension?
YES - Repair the short to battery voltage between the ABS modulator-control unit and the appropriate wheel speed sensor.
NO - Go to 6.

6. Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position.
7. Measure the resistance of the electrical circuit between vehicle ground and terminals + B and GND of the corresponding wheel sensor at the 25P connector of the ABS control unit (see table).

Is the connection continuous?
YES - Go to 8.
NO - Go to 10.

8. Disconnect the 2P harness connector from the appropriate wheel speed sensor.
9.Measure the resistance of the electrical circuit between vehicle ground and terminals + B and GND of the corresponding wheel sensor at the 25P connector of the ABS control unit (see table).

Is the connection continuous?
YES - Repair the short to ground between the ABS modulator-control unit and the wheel speed sensor
NO - Replace the wheel speed sensor.n

10. Measure the resistance between the + B and GND 25P terminals of the ABS unit connector of the appropriate wheel sensor (see table), then measure the resistance between the same terminals after you have swapped the positive and negative test leads on the tester.

Is the resistance equal to infinity on both sides?
YES - Go to 11.
NO - Go to 13.

11. Disconnect the 2P harness connector from the appropriate wheel speed sensor.
12. Measure the resistance between the + B and GND 25P terminals of the ABS unit connector of the appropriate wheel sensor (see table), then measure the resistance between the same terminals after swapping the positive and negative test leads on the tester.

Is the resistance equal to infinity on both sides?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the ABS modulator-control unit and the wheel speed sensor.
NO - Replace the wheel speed sensor.

13. Check for continuity between the + B and GND 25P terminals of the ABS unit connector of the appropriate wheel sensor (see table), then check for continuity between the same terminals after you have swapped the positive and negative test leads on the tester.

Is there chain continuity on both sides?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ABS modulator-control unit and the wheel speed sensor.
NO - Check that the 25P connector of the ABS control unit is secure. If necessary, replace the ABS modulator-control unit with a serviceable one and retest.

Today we will talk about one rather simple breakdown, which in bad weather can contribute to loss of control on the road. A Honda Accord came to us with an ABS badge on the board. It was decided to carry out diagnostics, during which it was revealed that the ABS unit was out of order. Our foreman installed the ABS contract unit. Since this unit is very capricious, we recommend installing it only in specialized centers. The main thing is to install exactly the same ABS unit that was on the car, the number must match, otherwise it will not work. After installation, we checked the operation of the car.

Our other works with Honda cars can be viewed: here.

Diagnostics of Honda cars on Paveletskaya. Installation of the ABS block Honda Accord.

We use only high quality and proven equipment.

For all questions of interest, as well as an appointment for repairs, you can call: +7 (495) 507-90-17.

Most modern cars are equipped with a set of systems aimed at driving safety. To prevent wheel blocking during heavy braking or on a slippery road, the anti-lock braking system ABS (ABS) is used. Fully locked wheels are known to increase the stopping distance of a car, and if only a few wheels are locked, the car is more likely to skid.

The ABS includes several systems - the anti-lock braking system itself, the stability control system and emergency braking. The whole complex is controlled by an electronic control unit, and the final device is the hydraulic system of the vehicle.

The signals for the operation of the ABS systems come from a sensor installed on each of the wheels and monitoring the rotation of the wheel at each moment of movement. Based on the speed of the vehicle, the speed of rotation of the wheel, the condition of the road surface or the angle of inclination of the road, signals for the control valves of hydraulic systems are generated at the output of the electronic unit.

The ABS system is very important for the safe driving of a car, therefore, before undertaking repairs with your own hands, you need to carefully weigh everything. Diagnostics and repair of blocks of the ABS system in a car service, even if it will cost a little more than with your own hands, will give a guarantee that failures will not occur at the most inopportune time.

This is especially true for those who are accustomed to using the ABS and rely on its performance.

Like most electronic systems, the ABS has primary self-diagnostics that operate when the key is turned. Diagnostics usually takes a few seconds. If after this time no system malfunctions are noticed, the alarm on the dashboard will go out. When the car is moving, the ABS diagnostics works continuously, and when the parameters of the sensors or terminal devices are not included in the tolerance zone, a malfunction alarm is triggered. When signaling a malfunction, it is necessary with special care to find a convenient place to inspect the car or get to the nearest car service, especially in cold weather, when the roads are slippery. Sometimes it happens that a malfunction can be eliminated with your own hands in a couple of tens of minutes.

To repair blocks of the ABS system with your own hands, you must first measure the voltage of the battery. If the voltage is less than 10.5 V, the ABS control unit will not turn on, so that there are no errors in operation. At normal voltage, you will have to continue troubleshooting. Most of them are due to the wiring of the sensors. Moisture, getting into the connectors, causes oxidation of the contacts, therefore, first of all, you need to assess the condition of the contacts of each sensor of the ABS systems.

Very often, breakdowns of ABS systems are caused by a malfunction of the control unit sensors. To operate the ABS sensor, a gear wheel is attached to the hubs, and the sensor itself is an inductor located at a distance of 0.2–1.5 mm from the teeth. If all the teeth are in place, then it is necessary to measure the gaps between them and the sensors, if necessary, readjust the mounting of the sensors. Dirt accumulated on the teeth and surfaces of the sensors can adversely affect the operation of the ABS.

The coils themselves are checked with an ohmmeter. The device should show a resistance of 1-3 kOhm, depending on the type of sensor. The main thing is that they are all the same on one car. If the ABS sensor coil shows an open or short circuit or is very different from the rest, then it needs to be replaced or repaired. One can only advise to check the place of entry of the connecting conductors into the device. Perhaps the wires are broken, and, having removed a little insulation from the sensor, you can try to solder the break or short. Many devices can be disassembled by heating them with an assembly hair dryer and removing the plastic cover at the wire entry point. It is under this cover that breaks occur most often. In this case, do-it-yourself ABS repairs will not be very serious. Considering the cost of the sensor, such a technique may have a right to exist.

If the sensors are in order, the state of the wiring from them to the electronic unit is not satisfactory, then you need to inspect the control unit. DIY repair of ABS control units is advisable only for those who are very well versed in electronics, know how to use a soldering iron and have the skills to repair electronic devices.

The ABS control unit, as a rule, is made non-separable and hermetically sealed with glue. The printed circuit board on it is filled with a special sealant. If you carefully open it, you can look at the wires soldered to the printed circuit board of the block. Very often they do not withstand vibration and come off. The broken wire must be carefully evaporated and another must be soldered instead. For soldering, you need to use an electric soldering iron with a power of no more than 40 watts. Rosin or its solution in ethyl alcohol is used as a flux.

Do not use soldering acid for soldering ferrous metals as it will corrode printed tracks and copper wires over time.

To check the coils of the hydraulic valves, you need to free their leads from the sealant and apply a voltage of 12 V. A normal coil should work like an electromagnet, attracting steel objects.

Coil rewinding and PCB repair should only be performed by a specialist. It is very difficult to do this with your own hands and, moreover, without any guarantee. In any case, after the repair has been completed, the sealant layer must be restored. You can use neutral silicone for this. Regular silicone contains acetic acid. It cannot be used categorically.

Some time after the repair, the printed conductors on the control unit board will be completely corroded. For the most part, replacement of the control unit is required.

One more note. When replacing brake fluid in a car, it must also be drained from the accumulator (pressure accumulator) of the ABS. This can be done by pressing the brake pedal several times with the ignition off. With the ignition on, the pump in the hydraulic block will try to make up for the loss of fluid. In order to avoid damage to the electronics, during welding on a car, the ABS control unit must also be disconnected from the power circuits by pulling out the connector.

The location of the elements of the braking system with ABS on the car

The ABS control unit has the following functions:

- controls ABS;
- calculates the speed of the car;
- Carries out self-diagnosis of the system: fault codes with self-diagnosis and safety functions are stored in the memory by two separate microprocessors.

The ABS control unit continuously checks each wheel for locking and controls each valve to adjust the brake fluid pressure if required.

The ABS control unit also verifies that the components are working properly and disengages the ABS when a malfunction is detected.
The braking system then acts as a standard braking system.

The speed sensor detects the rotation of the wheel and consists of a permanent magnet and a coil. The front wheel sensors receive information from cogwheel rotors located on the drive shafts.

When the rotor teeth pass near the sensor, the magnetic field of the sensor changes, as a result of which a voltage pulse is generated.

This voltage is proportional to the wheel speed and can be measured.

The ABS and EBD warning lamps are located in the instrument cluster.

1) Lights up for 3 seconds after turning on the ignition and then goes out.
2) It goes out when the engine is started.
3) If the lamp is on constantly, then there are violations in the ABS.
4) The lamp is on during self-test.
5) If the control lamp lights up periodically, it means that there are abnormalities in the ABS and the car's systems operate in such a way as if there are no ABS and TCS systems in the car.
6) The lamp is on when the electrical connector is disconnected from the ECU.

EBD warning lamp (electronic brake force distribution):

1) Lights up after turning on the ignition.
2) It goes out when the engine is started.
3) Lights up when the parking brake lever is applied.
4) Lights up when the brake fluid level is low.
5) Lights up if the electronic brake force distribution EBD is not working:
- in case of a malfunction in the solenoid valve;
- if more than one sensor fails;
- in the event of a malfunction of the ECU control unit;
- when voltage is exceeded.

Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)

The Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) consists of a pump with an electric motor and a valve block for controlling the ABS pressure.

The sensor is located in the pump motor and provides an output signal to the ABS unit, which determines the pump's performance.

Front brake fluid pipe hole diameter: 4.8mm
Rear brake fluid pipe hole diameter: 4.8mm

A double-circuit pump supplies the required pressure and the valve block distributes the pressure to the wheel brakes.

The ABS control unit starts performing self-diagnostic functions after turning on the ignition. The ABS control unit detects a fault for each circuit and component by comparing the system status with a limited set of conditions in the ABS control unit. The ABS control unit stores the fault code and then outputs it to the diagnostic tool in the form of codes indicated by four digits.

Self-diagnosis codes check

The DTC is a four-digit number that appears continuously until the DTC is cleared by a scan tool.

In the instructions, we will repair the unit of the brand - Bosch. This is not the best of the abesoks, and in addition, this is exactly what is installed on most brands.

for instance in Audi, Volkswagen, Ford, Skoda, Seat, Renault and even Mercedes come across.

Location of the ABS unit under the hood of the Audi A4

The problem starts with a pesky error and a full screen exclamation mark. Because of which nothing else can be shown by the tidy, it cannot until it fixes the problem.

Everything would be fine and it seems possible to drive, but when selling, the buyer often asks a lot of questions seeing this disgrace. And the most calm when on the electrics - everything is in order.

More often, a breakdown occurs in the electronic part of the unit.

The contacts there are thin and fragile. If the problem is similar to the one described below, with sufficient experience with a soldering iron, you will succeed.

We disassemble.
First, let's remove the electronic part. It is connected to the hydraulic (main) part by six bolts. We disconnect the supply cable, then crawl up and unscrew it with a convenient key.

12 contacts of the electro-module

Now you need to carefully open the plastic case of the module. We cut with a cutter along the seam, very carefully, without driving the knife deeply. You can touch the contacts inside.

The case has been opened.
We carefully examine the board under a magnifying glass and a bright lamp. Inspection of this unit revealed damage to two contacts on the left side going to the connector.

From the outside, everything seems normal.

By slightly moving these wires, they easily moved away from the contacts.

Gently solder the wiring into place. You can also solder a new common wire instead of these two. You need to solder very carefully - do not overheat the entire module with the board.

If in the soldering experience they are not strong - it is better to give it to an experienced friend or to the workshop.

We glue the case back - with good glue (not super).

We return the module to its place.

This instruction was used by: 10999 once.

We give a guarantee for the work performed and the spare parts purchased from us!

Express delivery if required. We will offer and recommend various options. Official leading suppliers only.

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Emergency braking causes loss of control with the maximum likelihood that the vehicle will skid. A similar situation arises due to blocking of the wheels, which slide (skid) on the road surface. The gained speed dramatically increases the length of the braking distance, at which the car can significantly skid. The adhesion of the wheels to the road surface is sharply reduced.

To prevent such a situation, the car is equipped with a system that guarantees smooth braking. With such a task at the highest level, a driver with great experience can cope, but in this case ABS (anti-lock braking system) will not be superfluous. It is installed on the entire range of Honda vehicles.

Anti-lock braking system is a complex electronic-mechanical unit, consisting of:

• Control valves and channels built into the main line of the brake system. They help control the brake fluid pressure.
• Speed ​​sensors that measure the acceleration and deceleration of each wheel. The data goes to the control unit.
• The ABS unit is an electronic device that receives information from motion sensors. The obtained values ​​are compared, on the basis of which the control of channels and valves is corrected. The electronic unit is the most vulnerable component of the system, in most cases it is he who undergoes refurbishment.

To repair the anti-lock braking system, modern special equipment is required, and not every car service can afford to purchase it. Only when using it, you can correctly assess the operation of ABS, and make a full restoration of the ABS system.

All Yauza Motors technical service centers are equipped with the required equipment for repairing ABS of various modifications. The specialists of all our ATCs have extensive experience in the implementation of effective repairs in this area.

Having entrusted the repair of the ABS system to the Yauza Motors masters, the client is guaranteed to receive a restored anti-lock braking system that meets the standards of the automaker, with an extended service life.

Self-diagnosis ABS, Honda Accord CC7

There is a good answer to the topic ABS Self-Diagnosis (CC7)
SELF-DIAGNOSTICS
First of all, if any light on the electronic control systems of the car comes on (and there are 4 of them in the Honda Accord CC7: ECU (Check Engine), ABS, SRS, AT (Avtomatic Transmission)) - carry out a self-test and draw conclusions based on its results about errors and malfunctions in systems.

There are several topics in the FAQ about self-diagnostics (although according to nods, but the technology does not differ at all)

Everything is very simple:
1. Move the passenger seat back until it stops.
2. Take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the two bolts securing the glove compartment from the bottom to the aluminum panel. The second time you do not have to unscrew the glove compartment - because you will already know where the connector is and so you will crawl.
3. you look under the control unit for the air intake flap of the stove - in short, you will see a box with a foam rubber door - and there you see a bunch of all kinds of wires (this is the wiring to the passenger door, the wiring for controlling the air intake flap block, etc.) - and you are looking for such a two-pin chip there (connector ) which is not connected to anything (red arrow in the photo)

4. As you find it (and, as a rule, it is, as a rule, right in tight to the wall in the very corner) - you take a very small wire - you clean it from the oxide and stick one end into one hole of the chip, and the other into the other.
5. Insert the ignition key into the lock and turn it one step: the lights on your panel should light up. Depending on the vehicle configuration, there may be a lot of them or not very much, but we are interested in one yellow light - the one with the engine image. It still goes out when it goes out in normal mode (not during self-diagnosis) - a click is heard under the panel.

It can be seen in the photo (lower left above the engine temperature gauge).

She will blink.Moreover, the blinking will consist of long and short blinks. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones.
For example: four long, three short - 43.
Then you look here at the self-diagnostic code plate:

The code or codes are repeated at intervals of two seconds
The same is true for self-diagnostics of such systems as ABS (Anti-block Break System) and SRS (in Russian speaking - Air Bag)
You need to close the same two-pin connector, here's a photo of it (though the car is English, but everything is exactly the same as ours):

ZY I remind you that the delay is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
З.З.Ы. On the forum you can find several decryptions of self-diagnostic codes, but I recommend even using my nameplate - because it is taken from the Owner Manual Honda Accord CC7 (Repair Manual for Honda Accord CC7 modification)

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