DIY abs block repair on bmw

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DIY abs block repair

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Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks

DIY abs block repair

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Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks

The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during ice conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.

The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency

An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.

BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking. In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are spaced around the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold.

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.

The wheel sensors have also been changed. Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.

After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:

1. Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
2. Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
3. Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
4. Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.

If the anti-lock braking system lamp continues to burn, then most likely you will have to contact a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there. Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.

The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.

ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors

After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.

For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board

1. Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
2. Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
3. Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
4. We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
5. We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.

If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. He may have defects that may appear later.

You can drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.

The complete set of the BMW E39 car includes a system that unlocks the wheels during emergency braking. This system is included in most new vehicles. The main function of ABS is that in a critical situation it prevents the wheels from completely blocking during hard braking. This system also helps to better control the machine during hard braking. This mainly happens when entering a bend and also on an ice-covered road. The ABS system includes:

• Control block.
• System breakdown lamp. It is located in the passenger compartment on the dashboard.
• Special sensors located on BMW wheels.

An electronic device, which is located in the control device, performs the function of monitoring the appearance of problems in the system itself. In the event of a breakdown, a light comes on on the information panel, and the system itself ceases to function. Driving a car in such a situation is allowed, but with a sharp braking, the car will weigh itself differently. Almost any BMW E39 driver can diagnose and fix problems in the system.

After the vehicle has been factory tested, the ABC system begins. In this case, the lamp in the passenger compartment on the torpedo lights up for 3 seconds. After the elapsed time, the light goes out. If the indicator has not gone out, you should do the following:

1. If the car was moving, it should be stopped and the engine turned off. It should take 3 minutes. Then start the car again.
2. The voltage in the battery should be checked - 10.5 W.
3. It is necessary to check the terminals and power wires.
4. View all wires that go to the wheel sensors.

If the light bulb continues to work, you should contact a BMW service professional for diagnostics. With the help of a special electronic device, information is read from the unit and the point of the problem is determined.

To understand that there is a problem with the E39 ABS unit, you can notice a different behavior of the car:

1. No communication with sensors on wheels.
2. Installing new sensors does not solve this problem.
3. The order of destruction of the block by sensors: left - behind; right - in front; front - left; the back is on the right.
4. The speedometer stops working.
5. Indicators on the instrument panel in the passenger compartment are illuminated to indicate a problem.
6. After warming up the BMW vehicle, the system is automatically deactivated.
7. ABC turns off when driving on uneven road surfaces.

An independent check must begin with the cycle number sensors. The device is bolted to the hub. Therefore, remove the brake disc assembly and other parts. The bolts can be unscrewed with a special hex key, counterclockwise. For better removal, sprinkle the bolts with WD-40 (a special tool - wedge).

After removing the sensor, disconnect the connector located on the upper wing. You should also check the wires for integrity. If a wire is found to be damaged, it must be replaced with a new one; twisting and insulation are not suitable in this case. The wire needs the same length and the same cross-section. Sensor resistance 0.9-1.3 kOhm.

In the BMW E39 until 1999, there were no problems with the anti-lock braking system. But newer car releases have such a weak spot. This is due to an unsuccessful fixation of the control unit. It is located near the power unit. To restore the hydroelectronic unit after 1999, a rosin and tin soldering iron will be required.

The weak point of the control unit is the conductors that connect the connector to the device board. Contact is lost precisely at this point. This is due to constant vibration as well as sudden changes in temperature.

1. Remove the cover from the unit using a large knife or a hacksaw.
2. Carefully remove the protection layer from the edge of the board. You do not need to remove the entire layer. Need access to guides. They are made of aluminum and run from the board to the connector. Use a regular needle to check the contact. The needle should be lightly pricked into the guide wire.
3. With tweezers or tweezers, the conductor is removed without contact. And a new one is put in its place using soldering. The best conductor is copper wire. The same cross-section and alloy wire from the mobile phone charger.
4. There are 16 wires connected to the connector itself. They all need to be checked. If there is no conductivity, the wire changes in the same way.
5. Before installing the cover in its place, you should use a sealant. The block returns to its place in the car. High pressure pipes and sensor contacts are connected to it.

If the ABS unit has already been repaired, then it cannot be repaired again.Purchase a new one from a specialist store. Do not drip this block on the workbenches. Most often it has defects.

It is permitted to operate a BMW with a broken ABS system, but this is the safety of the driver, passengers and others.

Dear foromuchane advice where to dig the problem with the ABS. (E46 m54) There was an abs sensor native HZ sko.

Hey! the board on the abs block burned out .. four-wheel drive is difficult.

Hello everyone, there was a vibration from 1000-1500 rpm, I wang an automatic transmission on a bagel, in fact, what kind of offices.

Hello everybody. Maybe someone has contacts of an intelligent repairman.

I welcome everyone. The theme is this. Due to the increased fuel consumption and gray smoke during acceleration above avg.

Hello. Italian replica, wide: front 8j, bridgestone tires 225/35/19 rear 9j.

Who collided ?, bmw e39 crack on the glass at the point of attachment of the rack, the crack comes out of the hole.

should actually earn. but it's not easy to find + and - there. And so after the replacement, you need to initialize the block, throw off the errors with a scanner.

I changed all the fuses, everything worked, I left all winter with a garland on the tidy and an inoperative ABS DSC tin

The main thing is not in one service they did not even think to look at the fuses

I changed all the fuses, everything worked, I left all winter with a garland on the tidy and an inoperative ABS DSC tin

The main thing is not in one service they did not even think to look at the fuses

these are the masters

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each ABS sensor is connected with a sealed chip to the connector either in the wheel housing (front wheels) or under the rear part of the sills (rear wheels)

looks like a rectangular black box with latches .. two wires fit there - from the ABS sensor, and from the pad wear sensor - maybe you have a break there. detach the ABS sensor from the chip and test it in a short section.

So I suffered a mournful fate to see a garland of lights on the tidy, hear the sound of the ABS motor from under the hood, and worry about the absence of ABS, traction and antibuks when driving.

after 1.5 hours of fucking with keys, heads, fittings, and sawn-off heads, torch E5 .. I unscrewed the control unit.

He did not cut, but with a screwdriver and a hammer broke the lid around the perimeter. if you beat carefully but firmly, then everything diverges wonderfully.

it means so - the contacts of the motor were in order - but this is natural, because the motor was making holes like a victim.

but thanks to a hint on the 5th or 6th page of this thread, I decided to ring the electronic keys of the MOSFETs with a tester .. and so both were pierced. these keys open and shut off the power to the motor

if someone also has to change them - remember a couple of things:

1.fit ANY N-channel mosfets with parameters 30 Volts / 30 Amperes heat dissipation 40-50 watts .. at first I put mosfets 24 volts / 30 A - after 10 kilometers they died

2.Mosfets are standard FR3303 - look for their counterparts, it will find it on the radio markets, and it is even better to solder it from computer motherboards) mosfets with such parameters are in the power supply circuits of the processor. PCI-EX slot.

3.based on the previous point, I recommend that you repair the unit at computer electronics engineers - because it is so easy for old components to be soldered and new ones are not soldered, the substrate for these mosfets from the back side apparently goes to a powerful radiator .. which immediately removes heat and the mosfet lies in the coil like glued. I soldered with a hair dryer (520 degrees, full blowing, narrow nozzle) + a 40 watt soldering iron - but I couldn’t “blow off” the transistors .. but I “blew off” a couple of resistors. in the end, I dremel grinded off the old components and soldered on top of the new ones .. in general - give this matter to a specialist in the repair of electronic equipment.

4.there are 4 FR3303 mosfets on the board - but only 2 of them need to be changed - those that are soldered next to the engine contacts.

in the end - I saved the budget from losing 150 euros (used block for disassembly))

every corner

Diagnostics showed error 71 (pump motor abs).
I took off the BU ABS:
I checked the soldering (they beat microcracks on the contacts) I drunk everything,
checked the transistors - everything is in order.
I installed the ABS BU on the typewriter, but the error did not go away.
He supplied power directly to the ABS motor, zakolhozu semblance of a plug as on the ABS control unit. Result-0, the infection is silent.

Who cleaned the thread of the motor itself?

Useful subject) Colleagues, the same situation, only there is a question - after opening the ABS unit, indeed, two wiring were bared, soldered, but the problem did not go away, I also noticed that 3 antennae were soldered off the white "square", marked it in the photo, someone know what he is responsible for?

Thank you, guys! soldering helped me!

hesitated to look for the E5 head, I had to buy a set
and since there is a great risk of burning the head in the bowels of the engine compartment, I made a special key

cut off the head with a dremel
the cut is simply driven into a suitable size spanner

the uncut head did not fit into the lower screws at all

Damn exactly the same signs as yours, I changed all the sensors around and soldered the contacts in the control unit to the pump, but the problem did not go away, do you think this is also the case in this transistor?

So I suffered a mournful fate to see a garland of lights on the tidy, hear the sound of the ABS motor from under the hood, and worry about the absence of ABS, traction and antibuks when driving.

after 1.5 hours of fucking with keys, heads, fittings, and sawn-off heads, torch E5 .. I unscrewed the control unit.

He did not cut, but with a screwdriver and a hammer broke the lid around the perimeter. if you beat carefully but firmly, then everything diverges wonderfully.

it means so - the contacts of the motor were in order - but this is natural, because the motor was making holes like a victim.

but thanks to a hint on the 5th or 6th page of this thread, I decided to ring the electronic keys of the MOSFETs with a tester .. and so both were pierced. these keys open and shut off the power to the motor

if someone also has to change them - remember a couple of things:

1.fit ANY N-channel mosfets with parameters 30 Volts / 30 Amperes heat dissipation 40-50 watts .. at first I put mosfets 24 volts / 30 A - after 10 kilometers they died

2.Mosfets are standard FR3303 - look for their counterparts, it will find it on the radio markets, and it is even better to solder it from computer motherboards) mosfets with such parameters are in the power supply circuits of the processor. PCI-EX slot.

3.based on the previous point, I recommend that you repair the unit at computer electronics engineers - because it is so easy for old components to be soldered and new ones are not soldered, the substrate for these mosfets from the back side apparently goes to a powerful radiator .. which immediately removes heat and the mosfet lies in the coil like glued. I soldered with a hair dryer (520 degrees, full blowing, narrow nozzle) + a 40 watt soldering iron - but I couldn’t “blow off” the transistors .. but I “blew off” a couple of resistors. in the end, I dremel grinded off the old components and soldered on top of the new ones .. in general - give this matter to a specialist in the repair of electronic equipment.

4. there are 4 FR3303 mosfets on the board - but only 2 of them need to be changed - those that are soldered next to the motor contacts.

in the end - I saved the budget from losing 150 euros (used block for disassembly))

Most modern cars are equipped with a set of systems aimed at driving safety. To prevent wheel blocking during heavy braking or on a slippery road, the anti-lock braking system ABS (ABS) is used. Fully locked wheels are known to increase the stopping distance of a car, and if only a few wheels are locked, the car is more likely to skid.

The ABS includes several systems - the anti-lock braking system itself, the stability control system and emergency braking. The whole complex is controlled by an electronic control unit, and the final device is the hydraulic system of the vehicle.

The signals for the operation of the ABS systems come from a sensor installed on each of the wheels and monitoring the rotation of the wheel at each moment of movement. Based on the speed of the vehicle, the speed of rotation of the wheel, the condition of the road surface or the angle of inclination of the road, signals for the control valves of hydraulic systems are generated at the output of the electronic unit.

The ABS system is very important for the safe driving of a car, therefore, before undertaking repairs with your own hands, you need to carefully weigh everything. Diagnostics and repair of blocks of the ABS system in a car service, even if it will cost a little more than with your own hands, will give a guarantee that failures will not occur at the most inopportune time.

This is especially true for those who are accustomed to using the ABS and rely on its performance.

Like most electronic systems, the ABS has primary self-diagnostics that operate when the key is turned. Diagnostics usually takes a few seconds. If after this time no system malfunctions are noticed, the alarm on the dashboard will go out. When the car is moving, the ABS diagnostics works continuously, and when the parameters of the sensors or terminal devices are not included in the tolerance zone, a malfunction alarm is triggered. When signaling a malfunction, it is necessary with special care to find a convenient place to inspect the car or get to the nearest car service, especially in cold weather, when the roads are slippery. Sometimes it happens that a malfunction can be eliminated with your own hands in a couple of tens of minutes.

To repair blocks of the ABS system with your own hands, you must first measure the voltage of the battery. If the voltage is less than 10.5 V, the ABS control unit will not turn on, so that there are no errors in operation. At normal voltage, you will have to continue troubleshooting. Most of them are due to the wiring of the sensors. Moisture, getting into the connectors, causes oxidation of the contacts, therefore, first of all, you need to assess the condition of the contacts of each sensor of the ABS systems.

Very often, breakdowns of ABS systems are caused by a malfunction of the control unit sensors. To operate the ABS sensor, a gear wheel is attached to the hubs, and the sensor itself is an inductor located at a distance of 0.2–1.5 mm from the teeth. If all the teeth are in place, then it is necessary to measure the gaps between them and the sensors, if necessary, readjust the mounting of the sensors. Dirt accumulated on the teeth and surfaces of the sensors can adversely affect the operation of the ABS.

The coils themselves are checked with an ohmmeter. The device should show a resistance of 1-3 kOhm, depending on the type of sensor. The main thing is that they are all the same on one car. If the ABS sensor coil shows an open or short circuit or is very different from the rest, then it needs to be replaced or repaired. One can only advise to check the place of entry of the connecting conductors into the device. Perhaps the wires are broken, and, having removed a little insulation from the sensor, you can try to solder the break or short. Many devices can be disassembled by heating them with an assembly hair dryer and removing the plastic cover at the wire entry point. It is under this cover that breaks occur most often. In this case, do-it-yourself ABS repairs will not be very serious. Considering the cost of the sensor, such a technique may have a right to exist.