DIY abs block repair toyota avensis

In detail: do-it-yourself abs block repair Toyota Avensis from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Shut down the ABS. Symptoms: the ABS lamp on the panel was constantly on, incl. when diagnosing with a paper clip. The ABS did not work.
Checking the connector and wiring continuity did not reveal any faults. Sometimes the lamp went out, at this moment the paper clip
the diagnostics showed no errors, but this did not last long, the lamp came on again.

I bought a used block from a member of the forum
Rusmaster55, installed it and everything was fine - the light went out, the ABS is working.

Before throwing away my old block, out of pure curiosity, I decided to open it and see what he had
broke. Moreover, the Internet is full of ads from all kinds of firms about the repair of ABS units, and in the Slavac99 report
there is a link to the allegedly successful repair of a similar VW Passat ABS block.

We see a board covered with a thick layer of gel. Carefully remove the gel in the place where
the two thickest wires from the case are suitable for the board:

The board is fixed in the case not rigidly, but through rubber bands, therefore, when the ABS is working
it vibrates relative to the case, because of this, IMHO thick wiring gradually
broke off. Apparently the length of these loops is not enough to compensate for vibrations between
body and board. I think this is a flaw of Bosch, although it was enough for 14 years.
The tightness of the microassembly is ensured only by gel, when the unit is removed from the reverse
there is air access to the side of the board, so it cannot be said that the microassembly
completely sealed in the case, when the unit is removed, dust may get there, but
I think the gel will protect against dust particles and other debris.

On reflection, I decided that it is quite possible to restore even at home, the main thing
make sure that the contact compensates for vibrations, then as done in the report> I don’t
I liked it - the connection is too rigid, it will quickly fall off from vibration.
I decided to do it differently.

Video (click to play).

Armed with two pairs of glasses, a 10x magnifying glass, thin tweezers and a sharpened soldering iron, we begin the repair.

We make a flagellum from six thinner and longer wires, which should
compensate for vibration:

Having cleared the contact pads from the gel (conveniently with a sharpened match) and tinned them:

He made a mistake - he damaged the thinnest wiring on the left side, and did not notice it right away.
When I put the unit on the car and turned on the ignition, the ABS lamp did not go out, paper clip diagnostics
showed error 35 - open circuit of the front left / rear right wheel sensor.
I took it off, started looking - I found a break in the wiring on the left side. These wires are so thin that
burned out by touching a soldering iron. While I was changing the first posting, I damaged the second one. Replaced.
I also made it in the form of a loop, but in one posting. I stopped there, and left the next ones intact.

I covered the soldering points with the same gel, took a little from the edge of the board.

Put it on the car - everything is OK.
I carried out tests, the ABS works, the soldered wires do not fall off yet, I have been driving for the second week.
How long will the repair last - let's see if there is a spare block, transfer blocks from me
now takes 5 minutes - remove two connectors and unscrew six screws, even the air case
I do not remove the filter.

If something burned out on the board itself, it would hardly be possible to repair it without a special tool,
and to restore the contact of the board with the body / connector or valve solenoids, in my opinion, is quite realistic.
It all depends on the quality of the soldering and the materials, I used a thin tinned copper wire and Soviet POS-90 solder.

I rate my work as 3+ (quite satisfactory), next time I will try to do better.

I hope my report will be of interest to someone.

_________________
Avensis 1998 7A-FE Terra Liftback

Last edited by Valery 58 on Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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There's a 90% chance it's not the pressure sensor. It is very simple to change it, only the brake has to be drained and filled in, pumped over.

Rather, the problem is precisely in the electronic part of the ABS unit. Repaired normally.

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There's a 90% chance it's not the pressure sensor. It is very simple to change it, only the brake has to be drained and filled in, pumped over.

Rather, the problem is precisely in the electronic part of the ABS unit. Repaired normally.

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There was even a theme with photographs.

It is necessary to unscrew the plastic part from the ABS block, there seem to be 4 star screws.
Disconnect the connector and carefully detach the electrical part from the hydraulic part.

Then I closed the block with clean non-woven rags (super-rag in rolls), wrapped it with a film and drove on until it was fixed.

And the removed one - cut off the lid with a hacksaw, was horrified by the microscopic nature of the installation and the procrastination and ... carried it to the telephone repair shop.

If your hands are sharpened for something else, it is better to entrust the thread to someone.

Is registered: 27.05.2015
Posts: 5

There was even a theme with photographs.

It is necessary to unscrew the plastic part from the ABS block, there seem to be 4 star screws.
Disconnect the connector and carefully detach the electrical part from the hydraulic part.

Then I closed the block with clean non-woven rags (super-rag in rolls), wrapped it with a film and drove on until it was fixed.

And the removed one - cut off the lid with a hacksaw, was horrified by the microscopic nature of the installation and the procrastination and ... carried it to the telephone repair shop.

If your hands are sharpened for something else, it is better to entrust the thread to someone.

Is registered: 27.05.2015
Posts: 5

I understood not a fool I will wait for warmth

Upon further check, it turned out that a 40 A fuse burned out in fuse block No. 2 under the hood, in addition, when checking (according to the manual) of the pressure modulator, the circuit was found to be passable between terminals B2 and B1 according to the scheme, these terminals go to the pressure modulator engine.
Yes, in addition to this, the diagnostics of the speed sensors were accepted, all turned out to be in good order (when disconnected, the tests showed the corresponding error, the errors were then reset).
What and who can offer in this regard?

I had it like that, I took apart the hub on the Kalda, after the assembly, the abs lamp also burned, I took it apart again, and the chips got into the sensor, cleaned it and everything was fine!

Take off all the wheels, clean the sensors on the hubs, maybe the snow melted the ice and you still say it was buzzing, but in the morning everything is bad, so it’s very likely!

Good day to all. car toyota gaia sxm15 4wd 3s-fe engine (2.0l). not for no reason. the abs and four-wheel drive stopped working. began to ring up all that was possible. did self-diagnostics, showed error 11 (error in the electromagnetic relay circuit) and some other on 4wd (error due to the fact that the abska does not work). threw off all the errors with the brake pedal - it helped for 5 seconds. the problem did not go away .. the resistance rang out on all the speed sensors. before 1.65kOhm back 1.3kOhm. everything is within the normal range of 0.9-1.8 kOhm.
the relay is working properly. applied voltage from the battery. everything clicks and switches as needed. began to measure further in the book all the resistances on the connectors.
got to the modulator connectors. Confused by one ringing of contacts. the book says that there should be 33 ohms. showed me that 58 ohms.
could someone measure the result on this connector. I am attaching the picture. would be very grateful. and then in the city there are few such cars. and if there is something with front-wheel drive (differently done).

I don’t even know what to do. wires are all alive. relyuhi too (tested 2 relyuhi). fuses are ok too

Self-repair of ABS. result 50/50

ABS Repair Kelsey - Hayes EBS 430

WHAT'S INSIDE? ABS block ABS inside

Location of the ABS unit under the hood of the Audi A4

The problem starts with a pesky error and a full screen exclamation mark. Because of which nothing else can be shown by the tidy, it cannot until it fixes the problem.

Everything would be fine and it seems possible to drive, but when selling, the buyer often asks a lot of questions seeing this disgrace. And the most calm when on the electrics - everything is in order.

More often, a breakdown occurs in the electronic part of the unit.

The contacts there are thin and fragile. If the problem is similar to the one described below, with sufficient experience with a soldering iron, you will succeed.

We disassemble.
First, let's remove the electronic part. It is connected to the hydraulic (main) part by six bolts. Disconnect the supply cable, then crawl up and unscrew it with a convenient key.

12 contacts of the electro-module

Now you need to carefully open the plastic case of the module. We cut with a cutter along the seam, very carefully, without driving the knife deeply. You can touch the contacts inside.

The case has been opened.
We carefully examine the board under a magnifying glass and a bright lamp. Inspection of this unit revealed damage to two contacts on the left side going to the connector.

From the outside, everything seems normal.

By slightly moving these wires, they easily moved away from the contacts.

Gently solder the wiring into place. You can also solder a new common wire instead of these two. You need to solder very carefully - do not overheat the entire module with the board.

If in the soldering experience they are not strong - it is better to give it to an experienced friend or workshop.

We glue the case back - with good glue (not super).

We return the module to its place.

This instruction was used by: 11030 once.

Like any other system in a car, the ABS periodically requires maintenance, preventive maintenance and repair. Of course, all the electronic units of this useful system are well protected from external influences and rarely fail, but every motorist should be prepared for the fact that sooner or later they will have to roll up their sleeves and start preventive or repair work. Periodic self-diagnosis is not canceled even by the presence of a self-test system in each car.

It is necessary to pay attention to the prevention of ABS, since it performs a very important function in the car - it prevents the complete blocking of the wheels during braking. This, in turn, not only reduces the braking distance, but also allows the driver to maneuver during braking - without ABS, with locked wheels, any steering movement will lead to an uncontrollable skid of the vehicle, the consequences of which can turn into a disaster.

It is quite natural that do-it-yourself ABS repair is possible only if the problem is accurately identified. Any car with an anti-lock braking system also has a self-test mechanism that is activated when the ignition is turned on. If the system is faulty, an error code is displayed on the on-board computer. Having looked at the instruction manual, the driver will easily understand the current problem and appreciate the possibility of self-repair.

The entire anti-lock braking system can be conditionally divided into a central part, which includes electronic and hydraulic units, and a peripheral part, which includes wheel sensors. It is they who most often become the culprits of failures in the operation of the ABS. The second most popular cause of problems is worn wiring and poor connections that are unable to ensure the integrity of the electrical circuit.

The main part of the ABS is the electronics and the hydraulic unit. They fail quite rarely, and their self-repair is highly undesirable without the appropriate equipment and qualifications. If the reason for the interruptions in the wiring, terminals or the sensors themselves, which are installed on each hub, it is quite possible to do without a visit to the car service.

If it is almost impossible to repair the ABS unit with your own hands, then the wires and sensors are completely at the mercy of the driver. If the ABS indicator lights up frequently while driving, the first step is to check all the wires leading from the unit to the sensors. They should not have strong creases, damage to the insulation. If there are bare areas, such wiring must be urgently replaced - it is better to spend a little time on this than to find yourself in a critical situation without the help of the ABS.

The next step in self-troubleshooting of the ABS will be checking the sensors. To accurately determine their performance, you will need a multimeter with which the resistance on each of them is checked. The normal values of this indicator can be clarified in the car operating manual - for each system it can differ significantly. To check, you need to either lift the car with a lift, or alternately jack up each wheel.

Each sensor is a fairly simple induction coil, so there is no difficulty in understanding whether it is functional or not - if the resistance does not correspond to the standard, the sensor must be definitely replaced. The cost of a new one is not high, the sensor cannot be called a deficit either, and the procedure for self-replacement is not difficult even for a novice car owner.

Normally, after turning the ignition key, the ABS indicator on the dashboard should light up, and after 3 seconds go out - this indicates a successful self-test and no problems. If it continues to burn, or lights up while the car is moving, it is advisable to perform the following actions:

park and turn off the engine;
try to start the engine again after 3-5 minutes;
check the voltage at the output of the battery with a multimeter - its minimum value should be 10.5 V;
check the quality of the contact of the power wires, as well as the wires leading directly to the ABS sensors on the wheels.

To do the above, it will take no more than 5-7 minutes. If, after a cursory check of violations, it is not possible to identify the violations, you will have to seek help from professionals, or do it yourself, having devoted a lot of time to checking each sensor.

As practice shows, more than 80% of ABS malfunctions are associated precisely with sensors located on the wheels. They have to work in very unfavorable conditions, therefore, periodic problems that arise in their work are more likely a pattern. When starting to repair ABS with your own hands, you can go in two ways - just replace the sensors with new ones or restore the old one to work. In the latter case, you will have to rewind the coil located inside the sensor - this is a difficult and painstaking job, and without skills, a positive result is not guaranteed.

It is much easier and more reliable to replace the sensor. To do this, you need to remove the old one, which is attached to the hub with one bolt. To get to the attachment point, you will need to dismantle the wheel, remove the caliper and brake disc. To make it easier for yourself to remove the sensor, you can pre-treat the mounting area with WD-40. Install a new one in reverse order. Repairing the anti-lock braking system, in addition to replacing the sensor, should also include checking the wires; if damaged, they should also be replaced. Otherwise, even a new sensor will not be able to ensure the smooth functioning of the system, and the slightest short circuit will lead to its immediate shutdown.How to properly repair the sensor is shown in the video:

Today I took the block to the workshop, we could not solder it, now I will look for "Danila Master"What kind of soldering tools are needed?Good day! The problem exists as described aboveHi, I have the same problem in the morning, I’m looking for something — nothing beeps, it’s worth driving for 30 minutes so it lights up! -Abs and squeaks 3 times. when these light bulbs are on, VAG COM does not cling to either the engine or the ABS unit. as it seemed to me, when the temperature rises under the hood, it leaves somewhere in the contact in the ABS block. when the VAg COM bulbs are off, no errors are found. As I understand it, it is necessary to remove the ABS unit and look for torn contacts. On AUDI A6, 1999, 2.4, block number 8ЕО 614 111АН, the same trouble? (as Pavel lucidly explained!) Or do you need to look at some other contacts? And then they ask for repairs from us sickly grandmothers, but they do not give a guarantee! Thanks a lot for the future information!Diagnostics and repair of cars "TECHNICAL ARCHIVES of the forum" ARCHIVE (2004 - 2014): cars from Japan, Korea, China "Washed Avensis. Image - DIY abs block repair toyota avensis

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Sakhalin Island, - Diagnost

We are often approached by Internet users with various questions about car repair. Due to the fact that we work on a remote basis, that is, we do not have the opportunity to inspect the car, our specialists try to give recommendations as accurately as possible to solve your problems. Below we will answer a few questions that came to the site editorial office not so long ago.

The ABC and slip indicators on the panel lit up, and the stove does not give out heat, the air does not come out. When you knock on the side of the stove, the stove starts to work and a hum appears. How to replace the motor on the stove? (Baur)

If the ABS system bulbs light up on the dashboard, then first of all you need to diagnose the sensor and the wiring that goes to it. It may be that the appearance of these indicators on the tidy is due to the incorrect operation of the sensor or its contacts. In practice, it often happens that oxidized contacts are the cause of such errors, so try to dismantle the controller and clean the connector from oxidation. If this does not solve the problem, then replace the sensor.

As for the stove, in this case everything is individual. If you indicated the model of your car, we could give some recommendations regarding the issue. If you believe the symptoms, then the problem really lies in the operation of the motor. Try using the service book for your car to learn more about the disassembly of the unit and its repair (video by Chevrolet Aveo).

Good day! Need advice, please tell me. Recently I bought myself an Avensis 1.8 CVT in 2010, when I did not notice this problem. The problem is that with a slight acceleration or when climbing a small hill in simple words (with a small load), the car accelerates normally, but if you continue to hold the pedal in one position from the moment of acceleration, then the rpm rises to 3 thousand and stands still and at the same time, the box does not switch gears until you release the gas pedal a bit, then it starts to switch speeds. And if you press the gas pedal harder, it continues to pick up speed.It feels like the car does not understand what to do to accelerate or switch speeds, and you help it with the gas pedal to understand whether to start switching speeds or continue to accelerate. When driving quietly, so to speak (grandfather's riding), then everything switches normally. Because of this, the fuel consumption of the computer constantly writes at least 13.5 l / hundred in the city. The question is, is this normal or not ?!

What I did: Cleaned the throttle valve and adapted it. Change the oil. We did computer diagnostics, but it showed nothing. At the Toyota Center they say: "We can do a second computer diagnostics and visually see the engine, we cannot help anything else."

Tell me where to start so as not to go into the variator. CVT repair is not a cheap thing, or so CVTs do not behave in the event of a malfunction, and this may be another reason. Thank you in advance! P.s. I hope I get off with a slight fright! (Sergei)

Disassembled CVT transmission

Hello Sergey. We could give a more accurate recommendation if we inspected the car on site. Most likely, if the symptoms are to be believed, the problem may be with the control unit. Therefore, the first step is to diagnose the wiring connecting the control unit to the transmission. You will also need to check in more detail all electronic controllers and regulators, which are located both on the transmission and on the motor. In practice, quite often Avensis automatic transmissions do not work correctly due to solenoids, but this does not sound like your symptoms.

It should be noted that not in all service centers the so-called specialists can make high-quality computer diagnostics. Therefore, you can try to do everything yourself at home. You only need a working computer with diagnostic software (downloaded from the Web, taking into account your car model), as well as a diagnostic tester.

The tester can also be purchased on the Internet, especially since this device may come in handy in the future. You will also need to find out where the diagnostic connector is located in your car, in this case, use the service book (usually this connector is located to the left of the steering wheel at the bottom and is hidden from the cover). In general, there is nothing complicated in computer diagnostics; more detailed information is presented in this article.

Hello! Tell me please. I have a problem with the alarm, I opened the car - started everything as always. And then the alarm went off with a weak signal from the siren. The machine is open, the engine is running and the alarm is running. I tried to reboot the alarm, removed the brand from the battery, as I put on the brand, it again gives a signal, but does not react to the remote control at all. What could be the problem? (Paul)

Car alarm UNIVERSE

Hello Pavel. First of all, if the anti-theft system stops responding to the remote control, diagnose it - perhaps you just need to change the battery in it. If there is a second keychain, try using it. The mass on the alarm unit may disappear and then the serena beeps quietly and does not respond to the key fob.

Judging by your symptoms, there can be two reasons for the problem - either a malfunction of the alarm control unit, or a siren. As for the latter, in practice it can be triggered when the engine is running in the event of a short circuit. Therefore, you need to find the siren, remove it and inspect the contacts - perhaps they just need to be cleaned (if you notice that the problem is in the wiring, then it would be better to replace it).

But if the problem is in the control unit, then everything is more complicated here. It may be that moisture gets on the block, which has a destructive effect on its structure as a whole. In any case, it is also necessary to get to the block and inspect it thoroughly. We would recommend contacting an electrician for help - a qualified technician can easily determine the cause of the malfunction and correct the problem.

The procedure for restoring the anti-theft system block is shown in the video below (the author of the video is the peling channel).

these are completely different blocks

but what is the difference, what can not be screwed in any way?, there are no hardware differences

efiop 29 Aug 2014

Toyota avensis 2006. The question is whether the abs block from the same, but Japanese avensis is suitable. The block numbers do not match, the native was 44540-05050, and there is 44540-05032. They told the owner that they might not fit, there are troubles. Outwardly one to one. The motor was removed and all the wiring was disassembled, and the unit was given for verification, to give back tomorrow. I would like to know in advance what will fit or not. To put and check in any way yet.

By the year, I understand that this is an AV-250.
That's just a rarity in Yapi, the course system.
And so they are identical.

The cost of repairing pre-removed electronic control units of the anti-lock braking system (ABS, ABS) of Toyota cars:

Bosch 5.3 - 8,000 rubles.
Bosch 5.7 - 10,000 rubles;
Bosch 8.0, Sumitomo, ATE ESP MK60 10,000 - 13,000 rubles.

The warranty for the work performed by us on the repair of the ABS control unit is 6 months. The time required for the repair is 2-4 business days.

A huge request before you call, be ready to give the block number, year of manufacture of the car and its main parameters (engine size and number, gearbox type and fault codes that were shown by computer diagnostics). Viber and WhatsApp are installed on the phone, you can write to them and reset the screenshot from the computer diagnostics there.

Various electronic control units (ECU) ABS (ABS) with various defects were installed on Toyota cars. Below is an example of the most common ones:

1) The ABS control unit does not enter diagnostics (the ABS icon (if there is also an ESP icon) lights up on the instrument panel, computer diagnostics cannot enter the ABS system.

2) The error of ABS (ABS) and ESP lights up (if this system is present on the car). Computer diagnostics sees errors on the breakage of one or more wheel speed sensors.

3) When an ABS (ABS) malfunction indication (icon) appears on the instrument panel, computer diagnostics sees an error on the booster pump. In this case, the booster pump may constantly work (even with the ignition off), or it may not show signs of life.

4) Computer diagnostics shows an error:

C1246 - brake pressure sensor error.

In case of other malfunctions, call or write to us, we will be happy to help you.

Below are the numbers of the ABS control units in which the problems described above are encountered:

TOYOTA 4451005020 Bosch 0273004229 0265216485 (TOYOTA Avensis 2.0 Diesel Turbo Wagon (Avensis, T22) 2000)
TOYOTA 4451005030 Bosch 0273004559 0265216825 (TOYOTA Avensis 1.8 VVT-i (Avensis, T22) 2002, TOYOTA Avensis 2.0 Diesel Turbo Wagon (Avensis, T22) 2001)
TOYOTA 89541002030 Bosch 0273004571 (TOYOTA Corolla 1.4 VVT-i (Corolla, E12) 2003, TOYOTA Corolla 1.6i (Corolla, E12) 2003)

TOYOTA 4454002010 8954102040 Bosch 0265950051 0265225117
TOYOTA 8954105100 4454005050 4454005051 Bosch 0265950178 0265225387
TOYOTA 8954105090 4454005040 Bosch 0265950149 0265225325 (TOYOTA Avensis 1.8 VVT-i (Avensis, T25) 2006, TOYOTA Avensis 2.2 D-CAT (Avensis, T25) 2005 - 2006)
TOYOTA 4454002040 Bosch 0265950131 0265225286 (TOYOTA Corolla 1.4i 16V Hatchback (Corolla, E12) 2004)
TOYOTA 4454005033 Bosch 0265950147 0265225319 (TOYOTA Avensis 1.8 VVT-i (Avensis, T25) 2004, TOYOTA Avensis 1.8i 16V (Avensis, T25) 2004, TOYOTA Avensis 2.0 VVT-i (Avensis, T25) 2004)
TOYOTA 8954105072 Bosch 0265950129
TOYOTA 8954102090 Bosch 0265950133 0265225290
TOYOTA 8954102070 4454002030 Bosch 0265950132 0265225288 (TOYOTA Corolla 2.0 D-4D (Corolla, E12) 2004, TOYOTA Corolla 1.6 VVT-i (Corolla, E12) 2007)

TOYOTA Bosch 0265800441 0265231579 (TOYOTA Aygo 1.0 VVT-i (Aygo, AB1) 2007 - 2009)
TOYOTA 445400F020 Bosch 0265950412 0265234222 (TOYOTA Corolla Verso 2.2 D-4D (Corolla Verso, R10) 2006 - 2008, TOYOTA Corolla Verso 2.2 D-CAT (Corolla Verso, R10) 2007)
TOYOTA 445400F030 Bosch 0265950824 0265230017
TOYOTA 8954105150 4454005070 Bosch 0265950749 0265035406 771
TOYOTA 445400F020 Bosch 0265950412 0265234222

TOYOTA 8954152110 4451052220 Sumitomo TY39Y161 BT87 (TOYOTA Yaris 1.3 VVT-i (Yaris, P1) 2001)

TOYOTA 895410D060 445100D110 ATE 06210956223 06210212114 28570087033
TOYOTA 44540-0D011 ATE 06.2109-0319.3 (TOYOTA Yaris 1.0 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2006 - 2008, TOYOTA Yaris 1.3 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2006 - 2008 TOYOTA Yaris 1.4 D-4D (Yaris, P9) 2006 - 2007)
TOYOTA 44540-0D011 ATE 06.2109-0319.3 (TOYOTA Yaris 1.0 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2006 - 2008, TOYOTA Yaris 1.3 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2006 - 2008, TOYOTA Yaris 1.4 D-4D (Yaris, P9) 2006 - 2007)
TOYOTA 44540-0D010 ATE 06.2102-0167.4 (TOYOTA Yaris 1.0 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2006, TOYOTA Yaris 1.3 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2006)
TOYOTA 445400D011 ATE 06210903193 06219007024 (TOYOTA Yaris 1.0 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2007, TOYOTA Yaris 1.3 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2006 - 2007)
TOYOTA 445400D110 ATE 06210958563 06210217534 2139 (TOYOTA Yaris 1.4 D-4D (Yaris, P9) 2011)
TOYOTA 895410D050 445400D040 ATE 06210956173 06210212054 2139 (TOYOTA Yaris 1.0 VVT-i (Yaris, P9) 2010, TOYOTA Yaris 1.4 D-4D (Yaris, P9) 2009)

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This is how the block looked initially, after unscrewing the fastening screws:

Next, let's take a look at the same block, which has already been disassembled. Let's analyze it again.

Block together with a fastener.

Share the article with your friends on social networks! I would be very grateful to you.

REPAIR UNIT ABS 8E0 614 111B VW PASSAT B5. and not only, the design of ABS blocks is in many ways similar to other blocks and the repair of these blocks is often similar, so if someone has an ABS block, this article can help fix this situation with your own hands.

SYMPTOMS: If during the diagnosis there is no connection between the diagnostic equipment and the ABS unit (the computer does not see the unit) or an error pops up 01203 - Electrical Connection between ABS and Instrument Cluster 03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent

When the car is running, the ABS and STOP lamps (!) Are constantly lit or periodically lit and the buzzer sounds three times.

ALL Operations described in this article are for informational purposes only. The authors do not bear any responsibility for the result of your self-repair. The ABS unit is part of the braking system, according to the traffic rules of the Russian Federation, any intervention in it is prohibited.

If you do not have sufficient skill and experience in repair, then I advise you not to do what will be described in this article.

Using the described method, several units were repaired, which function and work perfectly.

The ABS unit itself usually consists of two parts, an electronic unit and a valve body.

This is how it looks on the car.

I would like to point out that if your ABS electronic part fails, this does not mean that the brakes will disappear “no”, the car will work, drive and brake like an ordinary car. only the ABS, EDL, ESP systems will not work. Even if you remove the electronic part of the ABS unit from your car, then you can safely drive it, just keep in mind that some systems are not in order. And do not forget to cover the disassembled parts with something to protect from dust and dirt.

We start repairs and remove the electronic unit from the car, for this you need to: Jack up the left wheel, remove it and put some kind of support for safety, because you will have to crawl under the wheel arch

We remove, if there is a fender liner, unscrewing the screws, then we remove the washer tank, it is fastened with three M6 bolts, two from the bottom and one under the hood.

Carefully move the barrels to the side. and remove the connector from the electronic unit.

There is a return pump connector under the electronic unit, remove it. Using Torx T20, unscrew six screws and carefully remove the ABS electronic unit from the valve body

Then you need to carefully cut off the cover of the block, for this we use a cutter or some suitable object, scratch grooves on the plastic in all accessible places along the entire perimeter of our cover at the end. Its thickness is about 2 mm. Be very careful and watch carefully so that your cutter does not jump off, and does not fall inside and damage the block there.

When you make deep grooves, try to take a flathead screwdriver and slightly pry the cover on the other side of the main connector. The cover should easily break off from the body.

After we removed the cover, we will see a board with radio components inside and covered with some kind of jelly-like substance.

Do not under any circumstances pick this substance, as there are

small parts and conductors. you may damage them and the unit will become unusable.

The dimensions of our box in which the board is located are 70 mm x 83 mm.

Now we take scotch tape and something else and close that part of the electronic board in which we will not do anything, so as not to damage anything there. we leave only the place where the board is connected to the contact pads on the body of the block itself,

Somewhere in the middle of the contact pads, we will see that the board is connected by two thick wires with the contact pads on the block case. If you take a needle and shake these wires, we will see poor contact from the side of the case.

This is the big drawback of these blocks. Now you need to carefully take some thing with which you can remove the substance from the contact pad, where we will solder. Remove the jelly carefully, the conductors there are very thin, they can be easily damaged. After you remove this jelly, you need to tin this contact pad on the block body. Then we take a wire (copper) 10 centimeters long, 0.3 thick and solder it.

Then we take and service the conductors that go from the ceramic board in the place where they have the maximum distance in height from the board. Carefully push the soldered conductor between the silver conductors and solder everything into one piece, while ensuring heat dissipation of the copper conductor from the contact pad. This is necessary so that the conductor does not get unsoldered from the contact pad. Now take and carefully cut off the remaining wire.

Video (click to play).

When all this has been done, then for self-satisfaction we check our unit for operability. We take the electronic part and attach it to the valve body. until screwing, we connect both connectors and turn on the ignition. If there is no buzzer and ABS light and (!) In order, then we have completed the work at 5. Now you can collect everything and put it in its place.The lid that was cut off needs to be glued with eboksidkoy or poxipol.

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