DIY Samsung washing machine power supply repair

Often there is such a situation when you once again go to the washing machine, try to turn it on, but unfortunately nothing happens - the machine does not react to pressing the “on” button. In 90% of cases, this symptom means a failure of the switching power supply unit assembled on the TNY266 driver (a pulse converter from Power Integrations). This power supply unit is always energized if the plug of the washing machine is plugged into a power outlet. The TNY266 driver is designed for a supply voltage of 265 V, but if a pulse exceeds this voltage in the network, the driver fails. And it turns out that the washing machine worked normally, completed a full wash cycle, turned off normally, and the next time it just did not turn on. The electrical diagram of the power supply unit of the Samsung WF6450S7W washing machine is shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1. Electrical diagram of the power supply of the washing machine Samsung WF6450S7W

This power source is designed to generate a DC voltage of 12 V, 5 V when powered by an alternating current of 220 V. The power source controls the peripheral devices of the washing machine system (VALVES, DOOR, DRAIN PUMP) by switching a relay or on. / off. triac.

• - When AC 220V is supplied to CN3, D17 to D20 will convert it to 300V DC.
• - DC 300V is pulsed to LVT1, IC3 and PC1 provide pulse generation.
• - Secondary 12V depends on the value of ZD1.
• - The 12V secondary of LVT1 is converted to 5V DC through IC4.

Failure of the TNY266 driver is usually accompanied by a swelling of the electrolytic capacitor CE1 (green), and a strong heating of the PTC thermistor (gray). The visual location of these components is shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2. Visual location of the components of the power supply unit of the washing machine Samsung WF6450S7W

Thus, to eliminate the malfunction of the power supply unit of the Samsung WF6450S7W washing machine, it is necessary to replace the TNY266 driver and the 10 μF x 450 V electrolytic capacitor.

In some models of this washing machine, the board may be filled with compounds (as shown in Figure 2). In such cases, the compound at the location of the electronic elements will have to be removed, then the driver and capacitor will have to be cut off so that new elements can be soldered to their remaining legs.

Attention - the board of the control unit is made of gethenax, therefore, if you try to tear the board off the plastic base, it may break.

All modern washing machines are equipped with a control module. The more functionality the SM has, the more delicate the electronics: it is more susceptible to breakdowns, since it is sensitive to voltage surges in the network. Is it possible to repair the "brains" of washing machines with your own hands, how to diagnose their breakdown, we will find out in this article.

The main control box of the washing machine is equipped with two boards. One of them is responsible for the operation of all the details of the washing machine. The other provides the operation of the control panel - buttons, indicators - and has appropriate connectors for wiring.

Is the board not overload protected in any way? Of course, the manufacturer has provided a surge protector for such cases, which takes a hit during a power surge.

How to check the washing machine board and determine the breakdown?

The fact is that most of the signs can indicate a breakdown of both the module and other parts. For example, you notice that the machine has stopped working, the wash will not start. This may be due to a problem with the module or motor of the washing machine.

What may indicate a malfunction and subsequent repair of the board in the washing machine:

• СМА give an error code on the display.
• The system is "frozen" and does not respond to user manipulations.
• Washes for too long.The machine fills up and then drains the water, after which the system "freezes".
• The drum changes direction abruptly for no apparent reason.
• The spin mode does not turn on.
• The water overheats or does not heat up, which does not correspond to the selected mode.

However, the next time the washer is started, it may work as usual again.

Some models of the CMA have an autotest, which allows you to determine the cause of the breakdown. How to start it is written in the instruction manual of the machine.

1. A short circuit as a result of a voltage drop can lead to burnout of capacitors, thyristors, triggers and other elements on the board.
2. High humidity. If the SM is operated in a bathroom, over time, humidity affects the main unit, which leads to its malfunction.
3. Broken power wire. If the wire is cut abruptly, a power surge may occur, affecting the operation of the module.
4. Frequent abrupt unplugging of the machine over time may cause a malfunction.
5. Factory defects are less common.

Be careful when transporting SM from place to place. Be sure to pull out the powder dispenser as there is some water left in it. During transportation, water gets on the main unit, which leads to its combustion when connected.

To start repairs, you need a circuit board for the washing machine, as shown in the example of the Indesit washing machine.

We can advise you to superficially inspect the module to find burnouts and damage. There are other ways to check, but they can only be carried out by an experienced specialist. If faults are identified, you will have to replace the "brains" for the washing machine.

To carry out a visual inspection, we will figure out how to remove the washing machine board. First unplug the washing machine, then proceed as follows:

• Pull out the detergent dispenser drawer. To do this, pull it towards you while pressing the latch in the center.
• Now remove all screws holding the control panel.

• Use a screwdriver to release the plastic clips. Remove the panel from the case.

• The main unit is located behind the panel. Take a photo or mark the location of the wires with a marker. Then disconnect them and remove the unit.
• You may need to release the block latches to get to the board.

Once the board is in front of you, carefully examine it. Did you notice some burnt areas? Then you need to repair the control unit of the washing machine.

We will show you how you can replace some of the elements. To do this, you need a soldering iron and a new part.

• Capacitor. On the control board, it serves as a kind of stabilizer. To replace it, you need to solder the new part to the positive electrode. Use a tester to find out where which electrode is.

• Resistor. A tester is used to check the operation of the resistor. 1st order resistors should show a result of 8 ohms and an overload of 2A. Second-order resistors show 3-5A, while the resistance indicators depend on the frequency of the module. If the indicators do not correspond to the norm, the elements are replaced by soldering.
• Thyristor block. You can check the thyristor unit by measuring the negative resistance. Indicators should be no higher than 20V. The filter of the block could also burn out. You can repair it by cleaning the cathode.
• Trigger. Trigger test consists in measuring the voltage of the input contacts. Their readings should not exceed 12 V. The resistance of the trigger filter should be 20 ohms. Replacement of the element is also carried out by soldering.

The soldering of the board components can be disturbed by strong vibrations from the machine. Therefore, you need to monitor the correct and stable installation of the washer.

The master knows how to properly repair the control board. Think before you start your self-repair, because the electronic unit is quite expensive.If you do not have the skills to work with a soldering iron, and the verification indicators do not give specific results, contact the service center.

For those who nevertheless decided on an independent repair, a video on the topic:

As it usually happens, a technician works at home for about 9 years, and then suddenly dies quietly. So it did not pass us by. The washing machine stopped turning on.
They didn’t call the masters, as it was already a sad experience, and the hands seemed to grow out of their shoulders.

I got into the typewriter. I unscrewed two screws from the back from the cover, removed it, disassembled the front panel, got to the control board, and the power supply board.

DC41-00060A power supply assembly with control board

On the power supply board I immediately saw a swollen capacitor, well, in principle, the cause of the malfunction became clear. The capacity has dried up and instead of a constant voltage we get a pulsating one, very few people will like this mode of operation.

It remains to find out what other components the capacitor dragged along.

Visible swollen capacitor 10μF 450V

Here you can see that everything was very hot

Having rummaged on the Internet, I found a similar case to mine. Not many screenshots.

Well, somewhere in the same place I found part of the power supply circuit

Samsung Power Supply Assembly DC41-00060A WF722S8R

And I began to saw and hack 🙂

Marked the autopsy area

I cut through the plastic with a stationery knife

Got access to component pins

Here I started to remove the sealant from the top side of the board.

I clean the section of the board from the sealant

Removed the sealant from the top of the board, gained access to the components

When the components were ringing, it turned out that the TNY266PN PWM controller also failed, it also dropped out

I put everything back in place, turned it on, and everything worked

Thanks to Eugene for consultations and support.

Owners of home appliances of a well-known South Korean brand will be interested in how a Samsung washing machine is repaired with their own hands.

Unfortunately, sometimes it is necessary to eliminate breakdowns and leaks of washing machines, even in an expensive price segment, and knowledge of error codes and related malfunctions may also be required.

First, you should familiarize yourself a little with the main features of these machines. First, it is stylish design.

Secondly, it is the original design of the drum. Modern modifications of Samsung washing machines are equipped with a fundamentally new technical solution - Drum Diamond Drum .

It belongs to an innovative type of honeycomb drums with a surface covered with many convex pyramids and small water holes, into which the fabric is not drawn.

Thanks to this design, a gentle wash cycle is provided. These drums can be very spacious - with a load of up to 12 kg of laundry, depending on the model of the machine.

Thirdly, worthy of attention heaters with double ceramic coatingnot covered with limescale, and inverter motorattached directly to the drum in some modifications.

Also interesting are the functions Fuzzy Logic and Smart Check responsible for the correct calculation of the washing mode depending on the amount of loaded laundry, as well as for diagnosing various machine malfunctions.

The number of wash programs depends on the model of the washing machine. Even the simplest modifications are equipped with all the necessary set of programs, and the new models have a washing mode called ECO Bubble - with the help of air bubbles, laundry is easier to wash even in cold water.

If the machine is marked with Wf, it means that this model is front-loaded, and if its name contains the abbreviation WD, it means that the machine is equipped with a built-in dryer.

But Samsung brand machines also have one small drawback - their instability to voltage drops in the network, which is important in our Russian reality.

When the voltage becomes either too high or low, then a control system called Volt Control simply turns off the washing mode to resume it immediately after the mains voltage has stabilized. This is not always convenient, so it is better to connect the washing machine through a voltage regulator.

After a short acquaintance with the parameters of this brand, let's move on to considering the main breakdowns.

To understand the malfunction that has arisen, you need to consider the most common of them and the reasons for their occurrence.

Here is a list of common problems:

Further, the methods of repairing them with your own hands will be considered, because it is not always possible to call the master. And for this you need to have a set of necessary tools.

Before starting repairs, you need to make sure that all the tools from this list are available:

• flat and Phillips screwdrivers or screwdriver;
• set of wrenches;
• pliers, pliers, wire cutters;
• tweezers - elongated and curved;
• powerful flashlight;
• long-handled mirror;
• soldering iron;
• gas-burner;
• small hammer;
• knife.

In addition to the listed tools, you may need a magnet to pull out small metal objects inside the machine, a long metal ruler to align the drum, a multimeter or voltage indicator.

But that's not all. In addition to the required set of instruments, the following building materials will need to be purchased for repairs:

• sealant;
• Super glue;
• insulating resin;
• soldering materials - rosin, flux, etc .;
• wires;
• clamps;
• current fuses;
• rust remover;
• electrical tape and scotch tape.

Sometimes a multimeter is not needed, it is enough to turn on the machine and select a mode with a high water temperature. From the operation of an apartment electricity meter, it is easy to understand whether the heating element is receiving power.

If you are a beginner, then you can advise using a camera to shoot a video or to photograph a workflow, so as not to confuse the sequence of actions and then assemble the machine correctly.

There are several important rules to remember that must be followed before starting repair work:

• it is necessary to drain all the water from the machine;
• before disassembly, be sure to (!) disconnect the device from the power supply;
• choose a bright and spacious enough place for renovation.

If the unit cannot be moved to a convenient location, then ensure maximum illumination of the workplace.

The first step is to remove the top panel of the washing machine.

The second step is to take out the container for powders, this is not difficult to do. Next, you need to remove the cuff from the hatch. Caution is needed here. Use a screwdriver to pry the retaining clip, remove it, and then remove the O-ring. This should be done carefully, trying not to tear the soft rubber.

It was the turn of the control panel. In order to remove it, you need to unscrew two screws on the front of the panel and one on the right.

Next, you can proceed to dismantle the lower front panel. Pulling the latch lever, we separate the basement part of the facade - access to the drain filter and the hose for the emergency filter is open. The front panel can now be removed by unscrewing the eight fixing screws. The heating element and the drain pump open.

If during the repair process it is necessary to remove the tank and drum, then we advise you not to do this alone. Be sure to involve an assistant in this matter. Before removing the tank, you need to de-energize the heating element, disconnect all pipes, as well as the electrical wiring from the motor.

To do this, put the machine on its side, then remove the 4 screws on the bottom cover. The engine opens with a counterweight secured by shock absorbers. Disconnect the wiring from the connectors. It is important to remember what is being attached to what, therefore, before disassembling, it is advisable to photograph everything, in order to repeat everything exactly as in the picture.

But it remains to disconnect the drive belt from the engine. To do this, simply remove the belt from the pulley.Remember to put the drive belt on the small drive pulley first, then slide it over the large driven pulley and align to the center of the pulley when putting on the belt.

We present to you a diagram of the device, which will be very useful for repairs. The technical content of machines of different brands is about the same, and if you have already come across the replacement of spare parts for a washing machine, then it will be easier for you to cope with the next repair.

Now you can start a story about certain types of breakdowns and how to repair them.

The most common cause is insufficient water pressure. Then the machine stops, and in order to start it again, it must be turned off and then turned on again. If there is a lot of laundry loaded, for the machine to start, just turn it off and remove the excess.

If there is a break in the power cord or initially poor contact in the power button, then the device periodically turns off by itself. The machine may also stop if it is not level and slightly skewed.

To solve this problem, first check the water pressure in the water supply system, and also make sure that the valve supplying water to the machine is open well.

You should be aware that the free end of the drain hose connected from below must be located at a height of more than 2/3 of the height of the device, otherwise water will immediately pour out of the machine.

There are many reasons for this problem. Sometimes it is enough just to clean the powder container well - due to its clogging, water can simply flow out of it.

If, after checking these hoses, you are convinced that everything is in order with them, then the reason lies in the O-ring.

It is necessary to check the tightness of the seals, both in the door and in the connection of the filling hose. If they are worn out, they should be replaced. Then you need to check the drain pump and hose for foreign objects stuck there.

Therefore, the wash water is not heated. This is due to the failure of the heating element, but do not rush to change it - this may also be damage to the electrical wiring.

Therefore, you should carefully check the entire electrical circuit, as well as the contacts of the heating element itself, using a multimeter. If the tester shows the presence of voltage in the entire circuit, then this means that the heating element will still have to be replaced.

The place where the heater is installed should be thoroughly cleaned, only after that it will be possible to mount a new heating element.

The most common cause of noise is incorrect machine installation. Because of this, the unit produces a strong hum during spinning. For this, the position of the machine must be leveled using a spirit level.

But sometimes excessive noise can occur due to heavy wear on the bearings. It is impossible to fix them - only to change them. For an inexperienced repairman, this is a rather difficult task, because it may be necessary to saw and then glue the non-separable tank, behind which the bearing is located. Therefore, if you are not sure of your skill, then do not take up this business, it is better to call a qualified specialist.

But if the tank of your car can be disassembled, then this task can be within your power. To do this, you need to remove the tank, then disassemble it by unscrewing the bolts and disconnecting the fastening latches.

After the defective bearing has already been removed, you should thoroughly clean the shaft, check if it is worn out, and then just install a new bearing.

Finally, we present a short list of error codes that are most often issued by the unit.

E1 - system error when filling with water. Means that the required water level during filling is not reached within 20 minutes. Eliminated by turning off and then turning on the machine.

E2 - error when draining. Most often occurs when the drain filter is clogged.

E3 - too much water. You do not need to do anything, the water is automatically drained within 2 minutes.

E4 - too many things.Their mass does not correspond to the parameters of the machine. You need to extract the excess.

E5 - water heating does not work.

E6 - malfunction of the heating element.

E7 - malfunction of the water level sensor in the tank.

E8 - water heating does not match the selected wash program. Most often due to problems with the heating element.

E9 - water leakage or drain, recorded more than 4 times.

DE, DOOR - bad blocking. Most often - a badly closed hatch door.

We bring to your attention a good video that you need to watch before you start replacing the bearing yourself.

The process of dismantling and replacing bearings: