DIY ewh 50 sl boiler repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an ewh 50 sl electrolux boiler from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Content

1 Device and repair of storage water heaters Electrolux EWH 30-150 SL, EWH 200 R, EWH Digital, EWH Slim, AEG EWH 30-150 Comfort.
2 Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

Device and repair of storage water heaters Electrolux EWH 30-150 SL, EWH 200 R, EWH Digital, EWH Slim, AEG EWH 30-150 Comfort.

These models are produced by the Spanish factory Fagor, have been produced for more than 20 years and are considered the most durable of a similar model range. This plant is currently closed. The tank of these water heaters is made of black steel with a durable enamel coating. From the bottom to the tank, with six embedded bolts through the gasket, a black steel flange covered with enamel is attached. Tubes for installing heating elements and an adjustable thermostat are welded to the flange at a certain angle. The slope of the tubes (guides) for the heating elements and the thermostat is necessary for the versatility of the installation (vertically and horizontally) of the water heater.

No water temperature gauge (except for EWH Digital). Heating elements 2 or 3 pcs are inserted into the flange tubes. power from 800 to 1200 W. depending on the volume of the water heater. Heating elements are fixed with screws.

After replacing the heating element, it is necessary to check the reliability of fixing the heating element (there were cases of the heating element falling out during the operation of the water heater). An adjustable thermostat (balloon and capillary) is inserted into the free tube, the thermostat mechanism itself is attached to the control panel.

On the inner side of the flange there is a bracket for the magnesium anode. The anode has a sacrificial function, gradually collapsing saves the tank and flange from corrosion when the enamel is chipped (inevitable during operation). A protective thermostat is attached to the bottom of the flange; it also serves as a terminal block. A safety thermostat monitors the temperature of the flange. In case of overheating of the flange, the thermostat removes power from the entire electrical circuit. To restart, press the red button on the thermostat housing. In the absence of a bimetallic safety thermostat, a capillary thermostat can be installed. In this case, insert the capillary of the safety thermostat into the flange sleeve together with the capillary of the adjustable thermostat.

Video (click to play).

There is no RCD on the power cord. This requires the installation of additional protection in the electrical panel.

In water heaters of the EWH Eco series, a wet heating element is installed instead of a flange. Fitting dimensions are the same with the flange.

On water heaters of the Digital series, instead of a thermostat, an electronic unit with temperature control is installed. The weak point of electronics is the relay. In the absence of heating, the relay contacts may burn out, or the printed circuit board is not soldered.

Feature of EWH Slim water heater models: elongated, cigar-shaped body. A rod thermostat is used. Installed heating elements 800 W of the "hairpin" type L = 325 (short), more powerful ones will not fit into the flange along the length. There is no 1/2 power commutation, two heating elements are constantly working.

Weak heating or no heating when the heating indicator lamp is on indicates a malfunction of one or all heating elements. To replace the heating elements, there is no need to drain the water and dismantle the water heater (if the distances between the water heater and the floor or wall are observed). We remove the bottom cover, for this we unscrew 10-12 screws, move the cover down a little, then with considerable effort, we pull the cover towards ourselves.

We remove the terminals from the heating element, unscrew the fixing screw and pull the heating element down.

As a rule, the heating element is removed without problems, there have been single cases of welding the heating element to the flange tube (usually due to a lack of grounding or an incorrectly selected circuit breaker).

To dismantle the stuck heating element, you need to grab it with pliers, and pull it out by turning it. If it was not possible to dismantle the heating element, the flange with heating elements changes.

If there is no heating and the indicator lamp is off, the safety thermostat has turned off. There are several reasons. Malfunction of the working thermostat (violation of the tightness of the capillary of the thermostat, contacts welded) in this case, the thermostat did not turn off the heating and the emergency protection worked. Malfunction of the safety thermostat (contacts burned out). More often, the emergency protection is triggered due to the formation of scale and sludge on the flange. In this case, there is a violation of heat transfer and overheating of the flange. To eliminate this malfunction, it is necessary to dismantle everything from the flange, then remove the flange itself and clean out sludge and scale everywhere.

The flange is installed in any position out of six relative to the bolts, but the correct position is one, in which the safety thermostat will fit correctly. This flange position must be noted or remembered.

The flange gasket must be changed (reuse of the old gasket, as a rule, does not ensure tightness). The gasket has the same position relative to the flange.

The flange bolts are tightened in a circle (in any flange connections) with a final torque of 8-10 N / M. After installing the flange, heating elements and thermostats are mounted, electrical tips are installed in their places. Before installation, the tips must be tightened and after installation, check the tightness.

Leakage violation. Water can leak from under the bottom cover at different rates. This can be due to water hammer and corrosion of the tank or flange. Water damage occurs if the safety valve is not installed. When heated, the water expands (about 3-4 liters in a 100 liter boiler) and a very high pressure acts on the walls of the tank. First, it squeezes out the gasket, then bends the flange, chipping off and crumbling the enamel from the tank.

It can be repaired by replacing the flange and gasket if there are no chips on the enamel inside the tank. If the enamel has crumbled, then it makes no sense to repair, the water heater will rust very quickly. After prolonged operation without maintenance (replacing the anode and cleaning from sludge), punch-through corrosion may appear in the inner tank and flange. The presence and location of corrosion must be established visually.

If traces of corrosion are everywhere and moisture is on all elements of the circuit, then the tank itself is most likely corroded. Pull-through corrosion of the inner tank is irreparable. If you see dripping or water flowing out of the tubes of the flange for heating elements or a thermostat, this one indicates perforating corrosion of the flange. In this case, you should not rush to replace the flange; it is necessary to inspect the tank and decide on the expediency of repair. In case of complete destruction of the anode, there may be several places of corrosion.

In case of incomplete water supply to the boiler tank, it is necessary to check the presence of the hot water extraction pipe.

Main features: the water heater produces about a third of the nominal volume of boiling water with steam generation. A similar problem will occur if you confuse the input with the output. The water heater is designed to heat water.

Use for heating and heating a heated towel rail is not permitted!

If a circulation pump is installed and water is constantly circulating, the heating elements fail quickly, lime is quickly formed, and produces little hot water. In the water heater, the water is heated layer-by-layer (at the top it is hot, at the bottom when water comes in, it is cold). If there is circulation, the water quickly mixes and becomes cold, the heating element works without shutting down, quickly breaks down, a lot of lime and sludge falls out.

Exactly the same water heaters - Electrolux EWH 30-100 SL and AEG 30-100 Comfort. Completely different water heaters - AEG 30-100 Comfort and AEG Comfort 30-100.

They are produced by different factories using different components.

Very similar in design to the water heaters of the Fagor plant, the water heaters manufactured by Gorenje.

Posted by admin in Household appliances 21.05.2018 0 232 Views

Warranty and post-warranty repair of Electrolux water heaters.

Electrolux Authorized Service Center.

Service partnership with the federal online store Rusklimat.

EWH Centurio water heaters are available in 30,50,80 and 100 liter models. Manufactured in China.

The most common failure of an EWH Centurio water heater is a heating element malfunction. Symptoms of malfunction: there is no heating of water or, more often, it knocks out the RCD either on the power cord or on the electrical panel. (Here you can see how to check the heating element) Cutting the RCD from the power cord is strictly prohibited. For repairs, we dismantle the water heater (be careful, the water is never completely drained). After dismantling, turn it upside down with fittings and remove the protective cover.

Then we gradually begin to remove the thermostats, the thermometer's power supply, unscrew all the nuts and remove the heating element mounting flange.

We take out the heating element from the tank. When replacing the heating element, the heating element gasket can be left unchanged. There was not a single case of leakage even with the secondary replacement of the heating element.

Putting everything in place and checking.

If there is no heating and temperature indication on the thermometer, then turn on the RCD on the power cord. Checking the safety thermostat.

If the emergency thermostat opens, the power button is pressed with little effort and an audible click.

View of the water heater inside.

The tank is solidly made of stainless steel. There is no corrosion protection anode. Apparently, the frequent failure of the heating element is due to the lack of an anode.

The second most common breakdown is that the thermometer display does not work. Repair is not possible without dismantling the bottom cover. In this case, it is necessary to replace the display power supply (thermometer).

The thermometer is made on a single microcircuit and an LED matrix, and practically does not fail. There are two independent electrical circuits in the water heater, one for heating the water, the other for measuring the temperature. Regardless of the health of the thermometer, the water is heated.

The "native" power supply unit can be replaced with an AC-DC network converter MeanWell IRM-05-5 (the most optimal option).

The third malfunction is a violation of the tightness of the water heater tank itself. As a rule, it occurs with an incorrect installation. Do not install a safety valve that relieves excess pressure. In this case, repair is not possible. (Purpose of the safety valve)

If the water heater is placed in a closed niche of a plumbing booth, or on a wall behind a non-removable decorative wall, repair is possible with an increase in repair time and labor intensity. In this case, the approach to repair is individual.

In this case, you need to unscrew the side screws for securing the bottom cover, where there is access, if there is no access to the screws, you can forcefully pull the bottom base and pull it off. Damage to the hull will be minimal.

Remove the bottom cover (after draining the water and dismantling the attached fittings).

Then disconnect the emergency thermostat, thermometer power supply, power cord clamp and thermostats. Then remove the power wires from the heating element and pulling downwards to dismantle the control panel.

Next, we gradually release the fastening nuts of the heating element ring clamp. It is imperative to substitute a container of at least 5 liters to drain water and sludge. Carefully remove the ring clamp and heating element.

The heating element mounting bolts are embedded, and if they are not foamed, they may fall out. The bolts are original, and in case of loss, it will be difficult to pick up.

Assembly is carried out upside-down. We install a heating element, a fixing ring, a control panel, an emergency thermostat, sensors with a clamp, restore the connections of the electrical circuit and close the bottom cover. We connect the water inlet and outlet, fill it with water, plug it into the mains and use it. Without water, plugging into the power grid is not permissible.

It makes no sense to install the original Chinese heating element.

An anode is attached to the flange to protect the tank seams. When installing this flange, there is no need to drain water when replacing heating elements.

The capacity of the water heater is approximately 5-10 percent lower than the declared one.

Identical storage water heaters with Electrolux EWH Centurio: Ballu BWH / S Nexus, BWH / S Nexus titanium; Zanussi ZWH / S BRILLIANTO, ZWH / S PREMIERO.

Poor water quality is considered to be the main cause of boiler breakdown. Because of this, scale forms on the surface of the heating element, the inner walls of the tank are susceptible to corrosion, which in the future entails more serious consequences and expensive repairs in the service center. In addition, the water heater may stop working due to improper connection to the power supply and the hot / cold water circuits.

As for the latter, when connecting the boiler, it is imperative to install a safety valve between the branch pipe coming out of the tank and the cold water supply pipe, which will protect the tank from rupture during a water hammer. You should also make the connection according to the instructions and, no less important, do not confuse where-what is connected. Sometimes situations arise that, if installed incorrectly, the water heater does not collect water. Please note that you should not panic in this case. It is better to look again at how to properly connect the equipment to the pipes and, most likely, you will understand why your water is not collected.

So that you understand how to repair a storage water heater in different conditions, then we will separately consider how to repair all possible breakdowns with our own hands.

If the boiler does not heat the water to the required temperature, but still makes noise when turned on, it means that scale has formed on the heating element, which you need to clean yourself. This is not difficult to do, you just need to disconnect the equipment from the network, drain the water from the tank and disassemble the case to remove the heating element. You will not have any difficulties with disconnecting the plug from the outlet, but draining the water can make the repair a little more difficult. Immediately we recommend watching a video lesson, which shows a simple method for solving this problem:

After you empty the tank, you will need to disassemble the boiler yourself. To do this, carefully disconnect all fastons connected to the thermostat and unscrew the screws, which are usually 6 pieces.

During the removal of the heating element, a little more water will pour out, which remains in the tank. It is recommended to clean the heating element itself immediately, before it is wet and the scale deposits have not hardened. We recommend using special cleaning agents that can be sprayed onto the heater. After a while, the deposits are effortlessly scraped off with a wooden spatula or even a blunt knife. Also, for repairs, you can boil the heating element in a bucket with the addition of special acid to the water, which will effectively solve the problem. To get rid of limescale for sure, we advise you to use fine-grained emery paper ("sandpaper") to clean the tubes to a metallic color.

Simultaneously with the repair of the boiler, which heats the water for a long time or weakly, it is recommended to replace the magnesium anode, which protects the tank from corrosion. To do this, dismantle the worn out rod and purchase exactly the same one in order to replace it yourself!

After that, you need to assemble the boiler in the reverse order and check whether it was possible to repair the weak heating of the water. Do not forget that first of all you must fill the tank completely with water, then connect the plug to the mains and start.

We draw your attention to the fact that there is a situation when the boiler does not heat the water, because the heater is broken. In this case, self-repair is that you need to ring it with a multimeter, setting the resistance measurement mode. We will tell you about this below!

If the light on the boiler is on and the water does not heat up, then it is likely that the heater, which we talked about above, is not working.It is quite simple to check it at home, you need to install the tester probes on the contacts of the heating element and see the resistance on the display. With a working heater, the resistance can vary between 0.4-0.7, as shown in the photo below. If you see "1" on the display, then there is a breakage and you need to replace the part with a new one, because it is almost impossible to repair it.

By the way, if the boiler beats with current or when it is turned on, the RCD is turned off by itself, then the cause of the breakdown, again, is in the heater from which the leak occurs. You can check the malfunction by connecting one probe to the contact of the heating element, and the second to the tube itself. You will see "1" on the display, the part is in good order and there is no need for repair, a minus value or too large - replacement is required. In more detail about how to check the heating element with a multimeter, we talked in a separate article.

Another reason why the boiler does not heat the water or, on the contrary, heats up very much, is the failure of the thermostat. You can check it in two ways - with a tester or a lighter. Everything is clear with the tester, you need to act according to a similar method, but as for the lighter, everything is more interesting here. First, dismantle the thermostat and press the button on it (it is circled in the photo below). After that, the copper contact of the thermostat must be heated. If after some time the button returns to its original position (knocks it out), the thermostat is operational. If the thermostat does not work, you can repair the boiler that does not turn off or does not turn on by replacing this part with a new one. I would also like to note that there is no need to drain the water to replace the thermostat on the water heater. It is enough just to disconnect the equipment from the network and disconnect all the supplied wires.

Also, sometimes there is a breakdown - the temperature is not shown on the display of the water heater or the display does not work at all. In this case, check all the elements of the circuit and if you do not find an open circuit, most likely the control unit has broken. You will not be able to repair electronics with your own hands in the absence of experience and knowledge, so you will have to take the electric water heater to a service center for repair.

If you notice that water is dripping from the boiler, it is not always possible to repair it yourself. It is good if the cause of the leak is the wear of the seal on the flange. In this case, the gasket must be replaced with the same size, which will allow the breakage to be repaired. The situation is much worse if the water heater leaks due to the wear of the tank itself. Some advise to glue or solder the holes, but, as practice shows, after a short period of time you will still have to say goodbye to the boiler, because such leak repair methods are extremely short-lived.

That's all I wanted to tell you about DIY boiler repair. We hope that now you know what to do if an electric water heater is leaking, does not heat the water well or does not work at all. These devices do not have many problems and you can get rid of them by timely maintenance of the system. At least once a year, check the non-return valve and clean the heating element so that malfunctions bypass you!

It will be interesting to read:

Repair of a flow-through or storage type water heater (with a volume of 50, 80 and 100 liters) can be done by hand, without contacting a service center for repairing equipment at home.

The main thing is to know the internal structure and purpose of each individual element of the water heater.

In the article, we will consider common breakdowns and the possibility of doing it yourself repairing water heaters of different brands, including Ariston, Termex and Electrolux.

To make an independent repair of storage-type ariston water heaters at home (with a volume of 50, 80 or 100 liters), you need to familiarize yourself with the main components of the structure:

Temperature sensor. In the event of a breakdown, the boiler will not stop working, but it will be impossible to determine the temperature of the water and its amount;
Heat insulating casing - due to it, the temperature of the water in the ariston water heater is maintained;
The outlet pipe for the supply of hot water to the outside, as well as the heat-insulating element, does not need to be repaired;
Water intake tube;
Ariston water heater metal or plastic outer shell;
Internal container made of stainless steel, with wall thickness up to 2 mm. May require replacement if damaged by electrocorrosion caused by anode current;
Magnesium anode - resists anode current and protects the internal container from corrosion;
Teng is a water heating element. The rate of water heating depends on its power. This element more often than other parts of the Ariston boiler for 50, 80 liters requires do-it-yourself repair;
Thermostat - performs the function of automatically starting water heating;
Insulating seals require planned replacement. They perform the function of sealing the joints of the Ariston water heater structure and provide electrical protection.

The device of flow-through electric water heaters Ariston is similar to the storage type, but it does not have a storage tank for 50, 80 liters, and the heating element has a higher power.

If the electronic board of the water heater fails, basic knowledge of electrical engineering is required.

Since the board is put into operation in parallel with the electric power supply circuit of the heating element, it can be turned off and the circuit connected as on conventional boilers, after which the equipment will work.

When the ariston boiler is on, the heating element operation indicator does not light up, the water does not heat up:

Using a tester, we determine the malfunction. Having set a scale of 220-250V on the measuring device, we measure the connection of the thermostat and the cable at the terminals, at normal voltage, we proceed to measuring the voltage of the heating element. If in this case the voltage is normal, then the heating element itself has broken;
We turn off the boiler and set the tester to the resistance measuring scale. We disconnect the heating device from the thermostat, the ends of the heating element are exposed. We carry out a measurement on the contacts, with a working device, the tester will show a certain level of resistance (accuracy is not important here). In the absence of any indicators, the heating element of the water heater cannot be repaired.

To complement the above, a thematic video will allow.

Repair of Termeks water heaters, in case of a heating element breakdown, is carried out according to the diagram below.The malfunction of the water heater is determined in the same sequence as for the ariston 50 l storage boiler.Further, to replace the heating element with your own hands in thermex, you need to do the following:

We drain the water - for this, we attach a drain hose to the pipe of the cold water pipe and drain the water into the sewer;

Then we photograph or memorize the circuit for connecting the wires, after which we disconnect them;

We remove the thermal sensors. Unscrew the flange with a 14 wrench, remove everything;

The new heating element is installed in the thermex water heater in the reverse order. When installing the temperature sensors back, they are lubricated with thermal grease so that they can be easily removed if necessary.

To read the instructions, select the file in the list that you want to download, click on the “Download” button and you will be redirected to the page where you will need to enter the code from the picture. If the answer is correct, a button will appear in place of the picture to receive the file.

If there is a “View” button in the file field, it means that you can view the instruction online without having to download it to your computer.

If your material is not complete or you need additional information on this device, for example, a driver, additional files such as firmware or firmware, then you can ask a question to the moderators and members of our community, who will try to promptly respond to your question.

You can also view the instructions on your Android device.

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

Just yesterday, the Electrolux EWH 80 Heatronic Slim Dryheat storage water heater was launched. Later I noticed that there was a slight flow of water through the drainage hole in the bottom of the lid. What kind of breakdown is this?

It looks like the rubber seal in the reservoir is not tight enough. Replacement required.

We use the EWH 50 Royal Flash boiler in the house. At the moment of operation, the device produces different sounds: crackling, humming, whistling. Explain how this breakdown can be repaired?

The safety valve may be clogged. You need to unscrew the valve, and then clean it.

The storage water heater EWH 50 Axiomatic Slim is in operation. The other day the device stopped heating water. The mains light is on. What is the problem?

Alternatively, the heating element does not function. Diagnose it and, if necessary, change it.

The temperature regulator is in the minimum position (Cotherme thermostat), the temperature of the liquid at the outlet from the device reaches 80 degrees, although, judging from the information in the passport, it should heat up to 70 degrees. With this operation, the thermal relay is triggered, this leads to an open circuit. What exactly needs to be changed and how to check the operation of the thermostat and thermostat?

If, in the case of the minimum set temperature, the boiler heats up to 80 degrees, then the thermostat needs to be replaced. It is possible that problems with thermal insulation may arise. If the key is used all the time, it can lead to a decrease in the temperature threshold.

Interested in the following, does the Electrolux EWH 100 Royal H boiler first of all consume the heated tank, and only then does it fill or mix all the time as hot water is consumed? Can't change the temperature at the outlet?

The device is connected to cold water supply all the time, and when the tap with hot water is opened, the cold water supply immediately displaces hot water under the pressure in the line. In other words, it mixes, as you said, it happens all the time, as the hot water is consumed. The temperature will decrease depending on the speed of parsing. You will begin to feel this when there is half the tank. Thermal mixers can be installed to replace the taps. They will adjust the temperature of the liquid, both from the centralized hot water supply and from the water supply from the EVN. I personally did not bet, but I heard - many praise, it pays off quickly. Although, it is worth noting that as a result of the inappropriate water standard for which such mixers are made, it will quickly become overgrown with all kinds of waste - be prepared for the fact that it needs to be cleaned from time to time.

How to replace the magnesium anode with an Electrolux EWH 30 Magnum Slim Unifix (below I can only get to the heating elements and thermal relay)? The EVN turns off from time to time (thermal protection is triggered) if the temperature is set above the E mark (saving mode). Heats up to 55 degrees. There is no temperature scale on it. There are only marks of maximum, minimum and economy. What could be the problem?

When the safety thermostat is triggered at this temperature (55 degrees), then it needs to be replaced. The magnesium anode is located inside the tank on the flange. Disconnect the electrical part, drain the liquid and unscrew the six flange bolts. When disassembling, be sure to remember, or even better, photograph or mark the correct location of the bolts, the direction of the flange and gasket. Magnesium anode with M8 thread.

We use an electric water heater EWH 150 Axiomatic. It functions properly, but began to whistle somehow. When I unscrew the hot water supply valve, the valve is whistling, probably. Need advice on how to replace it or can this one be repaired? The valve was included in the package, did not overtighten, there is only one valve, it unscrews - there is a whistle, if you open it completely, it whistles a little less. This problem arose after a month of operation.

I would advise you to remove and look at the valve, it could simply get clogged up. Loosen the check valve spring, which is marked with a burgundy arrow (if possible). Look at the green line, it is not recommended to screw a part with an external thread below it. Otherwise, the check valve disc will rest.

He installed and connected the Electrolux EWH 80 Royal Flash electric water heater, the last time the heating element was changed more than three years ago. In general, we have been using it for about eight years. There was such a breakdown - a small volume of water heats up, in other words, hot water from the mixer goes for about one or two minutes, then cold water runs, and then the heating turns off altogether, if you believe the light bulb (it goes out). As a result, only 15-20 liters are warmed up (by means of a valve at the inlet of cold water supply, everything that was in the tank is drained - in the region of 20 liters of hot water). After 40 minutes. again, mountains appear for a few minutes. water. One more nuance - a single outlet from the HW boiler has three pipes: one on the 1st floor, the second on the 2nd floor and the 3rd on the basement, in which the device is located. The first half a meter or even a meter of these pipes are hot, and then they are cold. This is the problem. Can you please tell me who has experience, where to look for a malfunction, what to pay special attention to?

I would recommend contacting a service center for help.

Breakdown of the Electrolux EWH 100 SL electric water heater. I just can't figure it out on my own, I decided to ask you, perhaps someone came across. The boiler has stopped heating the liquid, although it is turned on at 1/2 power (the key is not pressed) - there is an indication, the relay does not snap off, no matter what position the regulator is in. When I turn it on at maximum power (the key is held down), the water heats up. Like me
I can fix this malfunction with my own hands and is it possible?

If it does not heat up at 1/2 power, then, most likely, one of the heating elements has broken down. When you turn on full power and it works stably, it means that the second heating element and the thermostat are in good condition.

We use a water heater Electrolux EWH 50 Royal Flash Silver. Almost all the time it works at half power, that year it stopped heating and I connected one (the second heating element), began to heat at half power. It would seem that everything is clear, the first heating element has broken. But literally last night the device itself turned on. I thought that the second heating element also worked out its own. I dismantled the heating elements and, before throwing them away, I decided to check - and what was my surprise when they both turned out to be workers. Although I did not pay attention to the fact that the lamp on the device does not light up. What do you think, where to start looking for the cause and how to do it correctly?

You need to check if the key, the thermostat is working properly.

Accumulative water heater Electrolux EWH 80 Interio 2. In general, we are completely satisfied with the device. But then one caveat appeared - a small leak formed on the nut of the magnesium anode (small drops, accumulate for a long time and then drain). The most interesting thing is that this nut is deaf, and liquid appears on the cut of the nut. There is even a plaque forming. I checked the thread - everything seems to be dry. So I think, whether I checked the thread badly, or something else. What do you think it can be?

Probably leaky somewhere. It is recommended to change the nut. It would be nice to drain all the water from the tank.

At the moment, I decided to purchase an electric water heater, the choice fell on the Electrolux EWH 50 Royal H. I would like to know the feedback from real users, what difficulties may arise, how to eliminate them, in general, all possible information is of interest.

A few years ago, we installed an EVN EWH 80 Magnum Slim in the apartment. Because the house was just being completed at that moment (muddy water was running out, it was necessary to spend a lot of time for normal hot water to flow), they immediately began to use the water heater, and in fact, they did not turn it off until that moment. My wife and I are generally enough, but 100 liters would be ideal. Advantages of this model - GW goes
instantly, always clean (not cloudy), you don't have to depend on the work schedule of utilities, independence. The disadvantages I personally can attribute to the fact that the volume of water is not large enough (for example, to take a bath). But in general, my opinion is that this device is a worthy option, I had no problems with it.

Another question about the Electrolux EWH 30 Heatronic Slim Dryheat electric water heater with dry heating elements. How often did you replace the magnesium anode and if you put a new one, in what state was the previous one? And, as I understand it, you always had it connected to the mains and filled with water? Interested also, what temperature was set and what about the scale, if you took it apart?

During all this time, he turned off the device from the outlet only during a long absence (when he left for several weeks) and when the cold water supply was turned off throughout the house. I did not disassemble, I did not change the magnesium anode, it was always connected to the mains and filled with water. My temperature is set at 55 degrees; and before taking a shower, I rearrange it to 70 degrees.

EVN EWH 100 Royal Flash. It is assumed that the heater is protected from dry operation (no liquid). This is, so to speak, a summer cottage option - a pumping station is installed, and the pressure does not exceed 3 atmospheres. Hence the question - is the following scheme permissible - an incoming central unit from a pumping station - a valve - a check valve (typical) - a tee to the boiler inlet and to the cold water supply valve. If the pump functions, then lift is guaranteed and all is well. When the pump is off or when the inlet valve is closed, we use water from the tank of the device. I carry out the drain in the winter in the same way. What's wrong?

This option is really convenient for draining, when cold water is connected, the risk of automatic draining of the liquid from the device is too high, as a result - the combustion of the heating element.

I want to buy EVN Electrolux EWH 50 Interio 2. I plan to put it horizontally.I have such a question, but how, in this case, to drain the liquid from it? With a vertical installation, everything is clear, the tee is in the middle of the heater and the return line, but is it generally drained in a horizontal installation?

There are practically no difficulties with draining from the EWH 50 Interio 2 electric storage boiler. Just when installing between the tank and the safety valve, you need to install a small in-line valve for the washing machine. It is to this valve that a drain pipe for a washing machine of the corresponding size is screwed. The flushing process looks something like this: a flexible tube is placed in the toilet or
sink, the water turns off, the hot water supply valve in the shower opens, and the valve for the washing machine is unscrewed. Then blow into the shower tube or suck the hose from the valve for the washing machine, this is necessary so that there is no residual water from the tank in the pipe. It is possible to drain from the tank, which is installed in an apartment with central hot water supply, using a 2-way valve, for this, install it between the hot water supply riser, the hot water line from the tank and the hot water line to the users.

Private sector, permanent residence. Central water supply. An Electrolux EWH 50 Major LZR storage EVN is installed horizontally in the bathtub directly under the ceiling. Installed a few years ago. Recent days he began to grumble, the noise is like a kettle boiling. As soon as I open the valve, the tone of the murmur changes. As soon as the water heats up, the noise disappears, and so on until the next time. This has never happened before. Experienced people think that this may be due to the formation of scale. Or incorrect system pressure. What do you think this malfunction is? And how can you fix this problem? I would not like to put another one. Perhaps you should carry out preventive work?

A large amount of hard limescale is believed to have formed. And most of it is located in inaccessible places. It is not necessary to dismantle it, but you still need to disassemble it. Remove the thermostat, the flask with heating elements, check the condition of the magnesium anode. If anything happens, replace the anode.

We have been using the Electrolux EWH 50 Royal water heater for more than three years. After repairs in the bathroom and replacing all the old pipes, a month later there was a water cut-off and, starting the device, I noticed that after heating, the valve began to leak. Replaced it with a more powerful one - nothing has changed.

Run the tubing into the fluid drain. The check valve can be omitted, it is better to return the old one (3 bar). The longer the liquid in the EVN is heated without water consumption, the higher the pressure. If you leave 4 - 5 bar, then the pressure in the device will inflate more inside. And the tube can be taken out to the drain.

Yesterday I had to remove the Electrolux EWH 80 Royal Flash Silver water heater from the wall. The thing is, when I tried to drain the water in the tank, it began to squelch, rumble and only a few milliliters poured out. When they saw that there was still a lot of water, it was already too late. We barely dismantled it, but I don’t know how to return it to its original place. Feels like there's still a lot of liquid in there. But when you open the drain valve, nothing comes out. Still, how to completely drain the water from the tank?

Allow air to enter the system, in other words, unscrew the cold water supply pipe. There is a check valve in the valve that prevents the water from moving back, there is a drain lever, or squeeze the membrane with a screwdriver for a quick drain, or open the valve.

Boiler breakdown. A pumping station has been installed, which pumps liquid from the well. A storage water heater EWH 50 Royal Flash is connected. Corresponding branch pipe from above - inlet of HV, branch pipe from below - outlet of hot water. It has been installed for quite a long time, but it seems that it does not work as it should, because the filling line also heats up when the water is heated. I came to the conclusion that there was a breakdown
check valve. The question arose, how should it be connected? Where should you install a pressure gauge? What is a magnesium anode for?

Video (click to play).

Intake of cold water is made from below. The hot water liquid comes out from the top as a result of pressure. The check valve must be placed in cold water.The magnesium anode is necessary in order to prolong the life of the device case; it must be replaced from time to time with a new one.

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