DIY boiler repair etalon fsd 100v

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

I have an Etalon 50 S RE storage water heater produced in 2014. The switch does not turn on (the on / off button is not recessed). I disassembled almost the entire EVN in order to drain the water from the tank, in this regard, I have a question. Can water be drained from the tank without disassembling?

The water from this appliance can be drained only by disassembling it.

Our storage water heater Boiler Etalon 80 liters is more than a year old. It worked properly. The hot water was running fine last night, but silence this morning when the hot water tap was opened. The device is heating normally. We live in a private house, on the street at least -20, but a strong north wind. Is the water in the supply pipe frozen? Although the pipes run through the house. What could be the reason? If the filter clogged, the process would be gradual, probably? Please answer what to do?

If water does not flow out, then this is due to the plumbing, it must be checked (valves and lines). It is unlikely that the instrument itself is to blame.

The heating element burned out in the Etalon 50 water heater. I removed 6 nuts and a washer. The heating element got out halfway. Do I need to remove the disc with 6 pins in order to remove the heating element? If so, how to unscrew, “pick out” or do you need a device?

In your case, the ten needs to be picked out. A lot of scale has accumulated there, it prevents you from getting it.

The 80 liter electric water heater Etalon does not heat the water, the light does not light up. The instructions say that you need to remove the cover and press the button until it clicks, the question is - how to remove it? I dismantled the eyeliner. I unscrewed 4 screws on the case under the sticker and in other places the cover has no screws, but it cannot be removed.

This cover just fits snugly on the case. It must be carefully removed.

I bought a boiler Etalon for 50 liters. He worked for 1 year and 20 days as it should. And now the water heating does not stop until I unplug it from the outlet. It does not react to switching the water heating level in any way. Can you tell me what to do with it? Or something needs to be changed in it? The light is on and it heats up without stopping until the water boils.

If so, then you definitely need to change the thermostat.

I have an Etalon 350 Jet instantaneous water heater. A flask burst in EVN, can you find out why the flask fails?

Most often, the bulb bursts due to overheating, and overheating, as a result of improper installation or improper operation.

Boiler Etalon is in operation. One day the fuse in the dashboard went off. Disconnected it and it became clear that the reason was in it. At first I thought the problem was in the outlet, plugged it into another outlet through the extension cord and it worked, but the extension cord had no ground wire. I plugged it into the old outlet with this extension cord, it also works, but without grounding it breaks the current through the water. What can be wrong? With grounding, a fuse is triggered, but without grounding it works, but it shocks.

We bought a new Etalon instantaneous water heater, we did not use it for two years, now we need it, but it does not heat at all. There are no buttons on it, just plug it in and that's it. Maybe they did something wrong? Tell me please.

And after plugging into the network, did you set the temperature by turning the regulator? In fact, it is difficult to determine the problem without inspection, if the heating indicator is on, you need to check the heating element, if not, then look at the electrical cord, safety thermostat, temperature thermostat, etc.

I have a boiler Etalon 80 liters, stopped heating the water, when turned on, the button lights up red, but the water does not heat up and does not show signs of life at all. I changed the ten - it didn’t help. The thermal protection button is not pressed. What can be wrong?

If the thermal protection button is snapped off and not pressed, change this thermostat.

Faced a problem in using the Etalon 50 boiler.The bottom line is this: hot water runs out extremely quickly. The regulator is set to maximum, both water heating buttons are on. After heating the water almost to the maximum mark, two people do not have time to wash (20 minutes for two).

If you have been using the device for a long time, then most likely the problem is in the scale on the heating element. Due to scale, it is possible that the adjustable thermostat does not turn off the unit correctly. It is possible that the adjustable thermostat itself is not working properly.

My electric boiler stopped heating water, but the buttons are on. What is the problem?

Most likely, the heating element in your boiler is out of order.

I have an Etalon 80 s re electric water heater. The following problem came up recently. Water started dripping from the non-return valve. I installed an adapter with a faucet, thereby eliminating the leak. Water immediately began to flow from the heating element mounting bolts. I shut off the water supply, drained all the water from the boiler, removed the heating element, cleaned everything from scale. Wrapped the bolts with insulating tape, tightened. Water also drips from the bolts. How do I
be, tell me, please?

Replace the non-return valve. It should drip from it when the pressure inside the tank is exceeded. Otherwise, water, under pressure, will find other ways to escape.

Tell me, please, the electric water heater is working fine, but when cold water runs in the tap, even in the kitchen, even in the bathroom, when the cold water tap is closed, the appliance starts bubbling. What could it be and is it scary?

Most likely, the matter is in the water pressure - at first there is a flow rate, and when the tap is closed, the pressure increases and water enters the device. But in order for it to go there, it is necessary that before that it flowed out of there. The safety valve is probably leaking in the opposite direction. Better contact the service.

The water heater ATT Etalon RES50V stopped heating my water. I removed the cover of the thermostat, and there was a little water, and the thermostat was a little rusty and the contacts of the heating element were oxidized. I am inclined to think that my heating element is out of order. Do you think I am right? Maybe another reason?

Most likely, the matter is in the out-of-order heating element. Usually traces of rust on the contacts are a sign of burnt heating elements.

I have a two-fuel (0.8 and 1.2 kW) water heater Etalon. Shock, pulled out the heating element, it turned out to be destroyed in several places. Now I will periodically check with a tester according to the instructions whether the heating element is destroyed. After replacing it with a new heating element, the water heats up, but the thermocouple from the thermostat does not seem to work, and the device does not turn off when a high temperature is reached, the heating element activation buttons are on. The thermocouple for the thermostat is in the taller tube. I pulled the thermocouple out of this tall tube again, slightly bent the thermocouple so that it exactly touched the tube walls, inserted it to the end of the tube, and turned on the unit again. The thermostat was set to a lower temperature so that the auto shutdown would work faster. But it didn't work again. In my opinion, there are two options: either the thermocouple has stopped working and therefore the auto shutdown does not work, or something has happened to the thermostat. But how do you check what exactly isn't working? It is also possible that during disassembly, due to inexperience, I cut the copper wire of this thermocouple, but then of course I connected it through an iron wire
additional. Could this somehow change the behavior of the thermostat?

Change the thermostat. You, by cutting the copper capillary tube, broke the thermostat with your own hands. The fact is that there is liquid in the copper capillary tube. Under the influence of heating the water, it expands. This pressure is transmitted to the thermostat, and it breaks the power supply circuit of the heating element. The thermostat can now only be thrown away. But first buy the same one. When installing a new one, be careful not to damage the tube.

Accumulative water heater flat Etalon 80 liters. I changed the heating element.But now the thermal relay does not work. What can be and how to check the thermal sensor?

Thermal relay - in the sense of an adjustable thermostat? If so, you can check by turning the knob. Usually, a faulty thermostat will not click when turned clockwise. A distinct click should be heard when turning against the arrow until it stops. Sometimes a malfunction of an adjustable thermostat can be judged by indirect signs - when heated, the water constantly overheats to boiling water with steam and constantly
the safety thermostat is triggered. This is also a malfunction of the adjustable thermostat. Also, when replacing, you could damage the copper capillary tube that goes from the device to the flask, which is inserted into the heating element. In these cases, it must be replaced.

The device has worked perfectly since 2006, periodically when the hot water is turned off, no more than 30-40 days a year. Now I was doing repairs in the toilet room, leaked, removed, hung back. Summer, the hot water was turned off. The attempt to turn on failed, the button (key), which should be highlighted when turned on, is not fixed. You press it - it lights up, you release it - nothing. What to do?

If the button nevertheless lights up when pressed, it means that power is supplied to the device. Change the button. There is a cog to the left of the button. It is located under a decorative rubber (sometimes plastic) plug. It is better to remove this plug with a knife. After unscrewing the screw, carefully remove the bezel. It is held in place by plastic clips at the edges.

We have an electric water heater Etalon. First, a hose leaked, which connected the tank with cold water and was shocked. They removed this hose, connected it directly. Electrocuted in the shower. And today I stopped heating the water. The light is on, it seems to be working, but it does not heat up.

Do not turn on the unit, it is very dangerous. Apparently the heating element struck. You need to call the master.

A water heater of 80 liters, used to give out a full volume, now in reality it gives out 20-25 liters of hot water and then cold water runs. Can you please tell me the possible causes of the problem? The boiler was not removed or turned off, it works all year round.

I suspect a malfunction of the hot water outlet pipe. The water in the tank does not mix properly.

Can you please tell me how to check the thermal protection and thermostat?

Thermal protection should be triggered when the heating temperature of the sensor (spiral) is over 95 degrees. The thermostat should work when the temperature of the sensor (bulb) is heated to 77 degrees. I cannot advise how and how to heat the sensors, as there have been situations. In stationary conditions, heating with a hairdryer is quite suitable.

Installed storage water heater Etalon 50 s re. Recently, problems have begun: when one heating element is turned on, the thermal relay does not work, the water heats up until the thermal protection is triggered (92 degrees), the arrow of the temperature indicator goes far beyond the scale. When you turn off this heating element and turn on the second, the situation repeats if you set the water heating temperature slightly less than the maximum. What could be the reason?

You have a problem with the thermostat. It needs to be replaced. Although there are cases that the thermostat has nothing to do with it - the thermal protection setting gets lost (that is, it should work at 95 degrees, but in fact it works at about 50 degrees), and the water does not even heat up to the set one, but the thermal protection works. If you have boiling water coming out of the device after the thermal protection is triggered, then you need to change the thermostat.

Boiler Etalon 80 liters has been in operation for 6 years, worked fine. Today I look, the temperature arrow has dropped, I removed the lid, checked the heating elements with a tester, they ring up normally, the current is fine. I connected the current directly to the heating elements, waited half an hour, but the temperature did not rise. Does it mean that the heating element is faulty? What to do?

If you connected directly, and there is no water heating, then the heating element is to blame.

The storage water heater Etalon 50 worked for 5 years. It worked only when the water was turned off in summer, now it does not turn on.Tell me what could have happened? Even in the instructions it is written about the thermal switch, I could not find it.

Press the safety thermostat button until it locks into place. Although, if the unit has not been descaled, I advise you to do it. It is possible that limescale is causing the safety thermostat to trip.

Electric water heater Etalon for 80 liters has stopped heating water - it is cold, but the red light on the front panel is on. Where to start looking for reasons, and what can they be?

If the light is on, I would immediately pay close attention to the heating element and the wires going to it. Most likely, the spiral inside the heating element has broken off. That does not heat. Although, maybe the point is in the broken wire supplying the heating element.

Installed an electric instantaneous water heater Etalon 10 kW. The thermal sensor clicks all the time - instead of hot, it goes cold.

Check the connection of the device again, if everything is correct, then it is better to contact the service center, since it is recommended to repair new units under warranty.

I have an Etalon 350 Jet instantaneous water heater. A flask burst in EVN, can you find out why the flask fails?

Most often, the bulb bursts due to overheating, and overheating, as a result of improper installation or improper operation.

Water heater Etalon for 50 liters, it is a little over a year old. Operated for only 1 month last summer. Now, when turned on, only 2 modes can be selected: demo or eco. Is it possible to solve this problem or only the service department?

Before contacting the service, try this method: Remove the plug from the socket. Hold for about a minute (the more the better). Put it back in and try turning on the heating. If the problem is resolved, then it was just a malfunction of the electronic control. If the problem persists, it means that the matter is in electronic control and only contacting the service will help.

We bought a new Etalon instantaneous water heater, we did not use it for two years, now we need it, but it does not heat at all. There are no buttons on it, just plug it in and that's it. Maybe they did something wrong? Tell me please.

And after plugging into the network, did you set the temperature by turning the regulator? In fact, it is difficult to determine the problem without inspection, if the heating indicator is on, you need to check the heating element, if not, then look at the electrical cord, safety thermostat, temperature thermostat, etc.

Boiler Etalon is in operation. One day the fuse in the dashboard went off. Disconnected it and it became clear that the reason was in it. At first I thought the problem was in the outlet, plugged it into another outlet through the extension cord and it worked, but the extension cord had no ground wire. I plugged it into the old outlet with this extension cord, it also works, but without grounding it breaks the current through the water. What can be wrong? With grounding, a fuse is triggered, but without grounding it works, but it shocks.

I have a boiler Etalon 80 liters, stopped heating the water, when turned on, the button lights up red, but the water does not heat up and does not show signs of life at all. I changed the ten - it didn’t help. The thermal protection button is not pressed. What can be wrong?

If the thermal protection button is snapped off and not pressed, change this thermostat.

I faced a problem in using the Etalon 50 boiler. The bottom line is the following: hot water runs out extremely quickly. The regulator is set to maximum, both water heating buttons are on. After heating the water almost to the maximum mark, two people do not have time to wash (20 minutes for two).

If you have been using the device for a long time, then most likely the problem is in the scale on the heating element. Due to scale, it is possible that the adjustable thermostat does not turn off the unit correctly. It is possible that the adjustable thermostat itself is not working properly.

My electric boiler stopped heating water, but the buttons are on. What is the problem?

Most likely, the heating element in your boiler is out of order.

I have an Etalon 80 s re electric water heater. The following problem came up recently. Water started dripping from the non-return valve. I installed an adapter with a faucet, thereby eliminating the leak. Water immediately began to flow from the heating element mounting bolts. I turned off the water supply, drained all the water from the boiler, removed the heating element, cleaned everything from scale. Wrapped the bolts with insulating tape, tightened. Water also drips from the bolts. How can I be, tell me, please?

Replace the non-return valve. It should drip from it when the pressure inside the tank is exceeded. Otherwise, water, under pressure, will find other ways to escape.

Tell me, please, the electric water heater is working fine, but when cold water runs in the tap, even in the kitchen, even in the bathroom, when the cold water tap is closed, the appliance starts bubbling. What could it be and is it scary?

Most likely, the matter is in the water pressure - first there is a flow rate, and when the tap is closed, the pressure increases and water enters the device. But in order for it to go there, it is necessary that before that it flowed out of there. The safety valve is probably leaking in the opposite direction. Better contact the service.

The water heater ATT Etalon RES50V stopped heating my water. I removed the cover of the thermostat, and there was a little water, and the thermostat was a little rusty and the contacts of the heating element were oxidized. I am inclined to think that my heating element is out of order. Do you think I am right? Maybe another reason?

Most likely, the matter is in the out-of-order heating element. Usually traces of rust on the contacts are a sign of burnt heating elements.

I have a two-fuel (0.8 and 1.2 kW) water heater Etalon. Shock, pulled out the heating element, it turned out to be destroyed in several places. Now I will periodically check with a tester according to the instructions whether the heating element is destroyed. After replacing it with a new heating element, the water heats up, but the thermocouple from the thermostat does not seem to work, and the device does not turn off when a high temperature is reached, the heating element activation buttons are on. The thermocouple for the thermostat is in the taller tube. I pulled the thermocouple out of this tall tube again, slightly bent the thermocouple so that it exactly touched the tube walls, inserted it to the end of the tube, and turned on the unit again. The thermostat was set to a lower temperature so that the auto shutdown would work faster. But it didn't work again. In my opinion, there are two options: either the thermocouple stopped working and therefore the auto shutdown does not work, or something happened to the thermostat. But how do you check what exactly isn't working? It is also possible that during disassembly, due to inexperience, I cut the copper wire of this thermocouple, but then of course I connected it through an additional iron wire. Could this somehow change the behavior of the thermostat?

Change the thermostat. You, by cutting the copper capillary tube, broke the thermostat with your own hands. The fact is that there is liquid in the copper capillary tube. Under the influence of heating the water, it expands. This pressure is transmitted to the thermostat, and it breaks the power supply circuit of the heating element. The thermostat can now only be thrown away. But first buy the same one. When putting in a new one, be careful not to damage the tube.

Accumulative water heater flat Etalon 80 liters. I changed the heating element. But now the thermal relay does not work. What can be and how to check the thermal sensor?

Thermal relay - in the sense of an adjustable thermostat? If so, you can check by turning the knob. Usually, a faulty thermostat will not click when turned clockwise. A distinct click should be heard when turning against the arrow until it stops. Sometimes a malfunction of an adjustable thermostat can be judged by indirect signs - when heated, the water constantly overheats to boiling water with steam and the protective thermostat constantly works. This is also a malfunction of the adjustable thermostat.Also, when replacing, you could damage the copper capillary tube that goes from the device to the flask, which is inserted into the heating element. In these cases, it must be replaced.

The device has worked perfectly since 2006, periodically when the hot water is turned off, no more than 30-40 days a year. Now I was doing repairs in the toilet room, leaked, removed, hung back. Summer, the hot water was turned off. The attempt to turn on failed, the button (key), which should be highlighted when turned on, is not fixed. You press it - it lights up, you release it - nothing. What to do?

If the button nevertheless lights up when pressed, it means that power is supplied to the device. Change the button. There is a cog to the left of the button. It is located under a decorative rubber (sometimes plastic) plug. It is better to remove this plug with a knife. After unscrewing the screw, carefully remove the bezel. It is held in place by plastic clips at the edges.

We have an electric water heater Etalon. First, a hose leaked, which connected the tank with cold water and was shocked. They removed this hose, connected it directly. Electrocuted in the shower. And today I stopped heating the water. The light is on, it seems to be working, but it does not heat up.

Do not turn on the unit, it is very dangerous. Apparently the heating element struck. You need to call the master.

A water heater of 80 liters, used to give out a full volume, now in reality it gives out 20-25 liters of hot water and then cold water runs. Can you please tell me the possible causes of the problem? The boiler was not removed or turned off, it works all year round.

I suspect a malfunction of the hot water outlet pipe. The water in the tank does not mix properly.

Can you please tell me how to check the thermal protection and thermostat?

Thermal protection should be triggered when the heating temperature of the sensor (spiral) is over 95 degrees. The thermostat should work when the temperature of the sensor (bulb) is heated to 77 degrees. I cannot advise how and how to heat the sensors, as there have been situations. In stationary conditions, heating with a hairdryer is quite suitable.

An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, breaks down periodically.

If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.

To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.

An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.

The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.

Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.

The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick.No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.

To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is designed specifically to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.

As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.

Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.

Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.

Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.

The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.

The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.

Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.

First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.

If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.

If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.

Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important.These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.

To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.

After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.

Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.

If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.

A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.

The water heater tank most often leaks if:

• damage to the internal tank has occurred;
• the heating element has deteriorated;
• leaky gasket.

If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.

A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.

If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.

Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.

On horizontal devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front.On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.

After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.

If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.

The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:

• increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
• the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
• the appearance of impurities in tap water, a change in its color, smell or taste.

If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:

1. Disconnect the device from the power supply.
2. Remove the protective cover.
3. Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
4. Shut off cold water supply.
5. Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
6. Unscrew the screws that hold the heating element.
7. Remove the heating element and descale it.
8. Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
9. Rinse the device thoroughly.
10. Check the health of the magnesium anode.
11. If necessary, replace this element immediately.
12. Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
13. Install the heating element in place.
14. Reassemble the device.
15. Check the tightness of all fasteners.
16. Connect the water heater to the power supply.
17. Check for grounding.

The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.

This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there are breakdowns in the control system.

A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of household water heaters can be viewed here:

It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center. Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.

According to BusinesStat estimates, about 22 million domestic water heaters are currently in use in Russia, and by 2014 their number will approach 25 million. That's a lot, isn't it? Many of these water heaters have been serving for more than a year, and sooner or later the owners will face the issue of repair. What, then, to do? Call the technician from the service center? Perhaps this is the easiest and most expensive way.

You can go the other way, i.e. repair the water heater with your own hands. How can this be done? Not so difficult as it seems at first glance, carefully read the purpose of the main elements, arm yourself with the necessary tools and, following the recommendations from the article, proceed with the repair.

Let's look at the main elements of electric water heaters, both storage and flow type. Let's make a reservation right away that we still won't repair the gas water heater - the cost of an error can be very high. Therefore, it is better to entrust the repair of gas water heaters to authorized service centers.

So, if we have to, for example, repair a storage-type Ariston water heater, we need to know its main components. The picture above will help us with this, on it all the elements are indicated and named. To repair the Termeks water heater with our own hands, we will take a closer look at their purpose in the boiler: