In detail: do-it-yourself gorenje boiler repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Poor water quality is considered to be the main cause of boiler breakdown. Because of this, scale forms on the surface of the heating element, the inner walls of the tank are susceptible to corrosion, which in the future entails more serious consequences and expensive repairs in the service center. In addition, the water heater may stop working due to improper connection to the power supply and the hot / cold water circuits.
As for the latter, when connecting the boiler, it is imperative to install a safety valve between the branch pipe coming out of the tank and the cold water supply pipe, which will protect the tank from rupture during a water hammer. You should also make the connection according to the instructions and, no less important, do not confuse where-what is connected. Sometimes situations arise that, if installed incorrectly, the water heater does not collect water. Please note that you should not panic in this case. It is better to look again at how to properly connect the equipment to the pipes and, most likely, you will understand why your water is not collected.
So that you understand how to repair a storage water heater in different conditions, then we will separately consider how to repair all possible breakdowns with our own hands.
If the boiler does not heat the water to the required temperature, but still makes noise when turned on, it means that scale has formed on the heating element, which you need to clean yourself. This is not difficult to do, you just need to disconnect the equipment from the network, drain the water from the tank and disassemble the case to remove the heating element. You will not have any difficulties with disconnecting the plug from the outlet, but draining the water can make the repair a little more difficult. Immediately we recommend watching a video lesson, which shows a simple method for solving this problem:
Video (click to play). |
After you empty the tank, you will need to disassemble the boiler yourself. To do this, carefully disconnect all fastons connected to the thermostat and unscrew the screws, which are usually 6 pieces.
During the removal of the heating element, a little more water will pour out, which remains in the tank. It is recommended to clean the heating element itself immediately, before it is wet and the scale deposits have not hardened. We recommend using special cleaning agents that can be sprayed onto the heater. After a while, the deposits are effortlessly scraped off with a wooden spatula or even a blunt knife. Also, for repairs, you can boil the heating element in a bucket with the addition of special acid to the water, which will effectively solve the problem. To get rid of limescale for sure, we advise you to use fine-grained emery paper ("sandpaper") to clean the tubes to a metallic color.
Simultaneously with the repair of the boiler, which heats the water for a long time or weakly, it is recommended to replace the magnesium anode, which protects the tank from corrosion. To do this, dismantle the worn out rod and purchase exactly the same one in order to replace it yourself!
After that, you need to assemble the boiler in the reverse order and check whether it was possible to repair the weak heating of the water. Do not forget that first of all you must fill the tank completely with water, then connect the plug to the mains and start.
We draw your attention to the fact that there is a situation when the boiler does not heat the water, because the heater is broken. In this case, self-repair is that you need to ring it with a multimeter, setting the resistance measurement mode.We will tell you about this below!
If the light on the boiler is on and the water does not heat up, then it is likely that the heater, which we talked about above, is not working. It is quite simple to check it at home, you need to install the tester probes on the contacts of the heating element and see the resistance on the display. With a working heater, the resistance can vary between 0.4-0.7, as shown in the photo below. If you see "1" on the display, then there is a breakage and you need to replace the part with a new one, because it is almost impossible to repair it.
By the way, if the boiler beats with current or when it is turned on, the RCD is turned off by itself, then the cause of the breakdown, again, is in the heater from which the leak occurs. You can check the malfunction by connecting one probe to the contact of the heating element, and the second to the tube itself. You will see “1” on the display, the part is in good order and there is no need for repairs, a minus value or too large - replacement is required. In more detail about how to check the heating element with a multimeter, we talked in a separate article.
Another reason why the boiler does not heat the water or, on the contrary, heats up very much, is the failure of the thermostat. You can check it in two ways - with a tester or a lighter. Everything is clear with the tester, you need to act according to a similar method, but as for the lighter, everything is more interesting here. First, dismantle the thermostat and press the button on it (it is circled in the photo below). After that, the copper contact of the thermostat must be heated. If after some time the button returns to its original position (knocks it out), the thermostat is operational. If the thermostat does not work, you can repair the boiler that does not turn off or does not turn on by replacing this part with a new one. I would also like to note that there is no need to drain the water to replace the thermostat on the water heater. It is enough just to disconnect the equipment from the network and disconnect all the supplied wires.
Also, sometimes there is a breakdown - the temperature is not shown on the display of the water heater or the display does not work at all. In this case, check all the elements of the circuit and if you do not find an open circuit, most likely the control unit has broken. You will not be able to repair electronics with your own hands in the absence of experience and knowledge, so you will have to take the electric water heater to a service center for repair.
If you notice that water is dripping from the boiler, it is not always possible to repair it yourself. It is good if the cause of the leak is the wear of the seal on the flange. In this case, the gasket must be replaced with the same size, which will allow the breakage to be repaired. The situation is much worse if the water heater leaks due to the wear of the tank itself. Some advise to glue or solder the holes, but, as practice shows, after a short period of time you will still have to say goodbye to the boiler, because such leak repair methods are extremely short-lived.
That's all I wanted to tell you about DIY boiler repair. We hope that now you know what to do if an electric water heater is leaking, does not heat the water well or does not work at all. These devices do not have many problems and you can get rid of them by timely maintenance of the system. At least once a year, check the non-return valve and clean the heating element so that malfunctions bypass you!
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Today I will talk about how the Gorenje boiler with dry heating elements is cleaned. Basically, the cleaning process is the same for all types of water heaters. Even with a "wet" heating element, even with a "dry" one.The main thing is to force yourself to do it. For additional incentive, read the article "When to Clean Your Boiler".
So - Gorenje GBF 50. The first stumbling block is the lid. Many cannot take it off, they even break it. Although it is removed very easily. Prying from below with a screwdriver, pull out the front panel towards ourselves. The panel has two plastic pins that simply slide into the holes on the cover.
Pulling it towards you, remove the temperature regulator knob. The handle is not screwed on, just clamped by a spring plate. Unscrew the two screws from above and that's it, the cover is removed.
ATTENTION! Check the disconnection of the boiler from the mains again. Your life and health are very dear to all of us!
By the way, pay attention to the device indicated by the arrow. This is a safety device that is triggered when the water is overheated. A much needed gadget on your water heater. The red button on it is the restart button.
Then we disconnect all the wires, remove the metal panel on which the control is attached. In the wires, of course, you can get lost if you want, but it's difficult. They are all of different lengths, when assembled, they clearly fall into place. Just in case, you can additionally take pictures from different angles.
The arrows show the heating element fastening screws. Very comfortable design. To replace any heating element, there is no need to drain the water.
We unscrew the flange (the water is naturally drained in advance). I will talk about how to drain the water from the boiler in another article. The flange is screwed on with six M8 nuts with a head of 13.
Lime, like all boilers that have not been cleaned for several years. There is nothing wrong with that. It's just a chemical process. Well, there will be a small colony of bacteria in this heap, a hundred million individuals. Above, I already wrote what to read in order to get additional incentive.
We wash, we clean. It is strictly forbidden to use abrasive paper and any kind of grinding power tools. Rubbed with a rag and that's enough. Do not scrub until shiny. Especially the water heater tank. Limescale on the tank walls provides additional protection against corrosion. Pay particular attention to the rubber gasket. I just wash it out with my fingers.
The protective anode in these boilers is attached to the top of the tank, it also changes through the top. From the inside, it is unrealistic to unscrew it with your hands. By the way, in the comments they ask you to fix it to “it's hard to unscrew, but you can try”. On small liters, where the hand reaches, it may work out. You only need to change from the outside. Not only is it necessary to remove the boiler itself, but for one person this is an unrealistic task. Plus, you need to remove the cork from above, pick out the foam, there is a shoe, an anode is screwed into the shoe. Just like in a fairy tale: a needle in an egg, an egg in a duck, a duck in a duck.
The futorka is unscrewed with some cunning key, either 32 or 36. And then it must be screwed back, and even hermetically sealed. Why is everything so inconvenient? Because when making a water heater, a hole is made on top of the tank for painting. So, in order not to brew it, and then paint it again, they came up with an anode to pour in there. They even came up with a theory that a top-mounted magnesium anode prolongs the life of a tank. Yeah, it extends by five days.
In short, the anodes in Gorenje are strong, they last for a long time. For peace of mind and additional protection, I screw any other magnesium anode to the temperature sensor and put everything back. If you are wondering what anodes are for, then read the article "What is a magnesium anode for".
It is often asked whether it is necessary to lubricate the rubber gasket on the flange with silicone. I do not grease. Metal, pressure, temperature drops, water of dubious quality, no one knows how the silicone on the gasket will behave. And I have not seen any silicone for rubber.
P.S. What if you need advice or consultation?
... Subscribe to the pages of Electro-Plumbing, there is a lot of other interesting information that did not get on the site.
All the best! Good luck!
Vladimir.
Construction of all water heaters despite the fact that there are a lot of different modifications on sale, it is practically the same. The difference is in the materials used, the power of the heating elements, the volume and the design. And the breakdowns are the same. The boiler device is quite simple. An electric water heater consists of two, usually steel, tanks: internal (working) and external. The inner tank, as well as the outer one, can have various coatings to protect against rust, or it can be made of stainless steel. Thickness also varies. Here, the thicker the better. There is a thermal insulation layer made of polyurethane foam between the tanks. The building contains
two branch pipes: a short one with a divider for supplying cold water and a long one for taking hot water. The electrical part of the boiler is mounted on a flange and consists of a heating element, thermostat, signal lamp and magnesium anode.
The temperature gauge is used to indicate the heating or cooling process. A safety valve is always included with the water heater, which, during installation, must be installed on the cold water supply pipe.
If you install the electric boiler yourself, A simple diagram will help you. There is nothing difficult here, it is important to correctly connect all the pipes. When using a water heater, it is highly recommended to install and connect an earthing connection. Electricity and water are a pretty dangerous combination. As a minimum, an RCD must be used. The use of an RCD for a storage water heater is highly desirable, especially in the country, as it will avoid electric shock, reduce electrocorrosion and show the malfunction of the water heater by the frequent disconnection of the RCD. The RCD can have a RCD rating of 16A 10mA or RCD 16A 30mA or with a high operating current, depending on the capacity of the water heater.
Tips for choosing the type and type of electric water heater will help you decide when buying a new device for heating water.
The most common problem is a tank leak. This is mainly due to the corrosion of the inner surface. To prevent its occurrence, manufacturers install magnesium anodes in their units, which protect the metal from corrosion. However, these devices are also short-lived. Therefore, timely replacement of the anode is very important - this significantly extends the life of the boiler. Sometimes there is leakage under the gasket at the inlet or outlet pipe connections. Then you are in luck and it is quite easy to “heal”. If a leak in the tank itself is the worst malfunction, which is almost impossible to fix on your own. All attempts to brew and the like are just a waste of time and nerves. In this case (if the warranty has expired) - there is only one way out - buying a new one. Here it is necessary to approach more responsibly to the choice of the material from which the internal tank is made, as well as not to skip maintenance (replacement of the anode) in the future.
Faults that you can identify and fix yourself:
1. If cold water flows instead of hot, then, most likely, the problem lies in the malfunction of the heating element. In some cases, these symptoms can be caused by a poor electrical connection between the thermostat and the heating element, or problems with the power supply in general. Failure of the heating element itself is also possible.
- The water in the switched on boiler does not heat up.
- When the tank is connected to the network, the ouzo is instantly triggered, this indicates a short circuit.
Replacing the heating element of the water heater, even serviceable, should be carried out at least once every five years. The water we use is not of the best quality, therefore scale often appears on it. Even if you regularly clean it off the heating element, it will still crumble to the bottom of the tank. The sediment can be determined by the presence of characteristic sounds, a rumble when the liquid is heated, as well as by the presence of a sulfur odor. With frequent cleaning of the heating element from scale, it can begin to "open up", while the water will be shocked or a short circuit will simply occur.
Disconnect the water heater from the electrical network and water supply, then completely drain the water from the tank. Remove the cover (panel) covering access to the heating element. Measure the resistance with a multimeter, if the heating element is intact, then the device will show a small resistance, if there is an open circuit, then the resistance tends to infinity.
For this, the tester probes are installed on the contacts of the heating element. When the probes touch the heating element, the resistance value is displayed on the multimeter, for example, 0.68 or 0.37. If a unit appears on the left of the display, this means that the coil has broken in the heating element.
Check for “body leakage” immediately. One probe of the multimeter is connected to the copper tube, and the other must touch one of the contacts (leads) of the heating element. If it is faulty, the device will show a minimum (minus) or vice versa a huge value. In the event that there is no “leakage to the case” in the heating element and it is in good working order, the tester will show a so-called break, for example, number 1.
It should be remembered that even a seemingly working heating element can punch onto the body, by the way, this can also be checked with the same tester. Take out the heating element. Most likely you will see heating elements in a large amount of scale, its amount depends on the hardness of the water in your area. It is necessary to rinse the tank, remove all scale. Then you install the new heating element in the old place, you can also replace the gasket, after which you can assemble the boiler in the reverse order. Before switching on a new heating element for the first time, it is necessary to fill the tank with water, otherwise the heating element can be burned. Before collapsible, write down the connection of all electrical contacts and wires - then it will be easier to connect them back correctly.
2. If the water is too hot, then this symptom indicates a thermostat failure.
Thermostats are designed to maintain the specified temperature of the water in the tank, as well as for emergency shutdown of the heating element, like all electrical parts, they have their own service life, which means they need to be replaced at some point. As a rule, the thermostat is installed on the heating element itself or next to it, does not touch the water, which means that its replacement does not require draining the water, and in general it is a much simpler procedure than replacing the heating element. You just need to remove the panel from the boiler, disconnect all the wires from the thermostat and replace it with a new one, it is very important to connect all the wires to their places. It should be remembered that all work should be carried out using similar original thermostats on tanks disconnected from the electrical network.
3. If the on and off cycles are very frequent, this may indicate that a large amount of scale has formed on the heating element. If such signs appear immediately after the purchase of the device, then a heating element is installed in it, which does not correspond to the capacity of the tank.
The "enemies" of the heating element are impurities contained in the water, which adhere to its surface in the form of scale. Scale changes the heat transfer from the heater surface to the water. As a result, firstly, the water heating time increases and, accordingly, the power consumption. And secondly, there is insufficient heat removal from the surface of the heating element: its temperature turns out to be higher than the normal operating temperature. This leads to damage to the water heater.
4. Magnesium anode - this is a tube that is installed inside the boiler and protects its inner surface from corrosion, is located next to the heating element. Magnesium is more chemically active than iron, so it reacts with oxygen faster. Thus, the anode itself, collapsing, protects the walls of the water heater. If the anode is not replaced on time, it will completely collapse and the walls of the water heater will begin to corrode. Its periodic replacement is required, if it is carried out regularly, your boiler will last much longer.
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Today I will talk about how the Gorenje boiler with dry heating elements is cleaned. Basically, the cleaning process is the same for all types of water heaters. Even with a "wet" heating element, even with a "dry" one. The main thing is to force yourself to do it. For additional incentive, read the article "When to Clean Your Boiler".
So - Gorenje GBF 50. The first stumbling block is the lid. Many cannot take it off, they even break it.Although it is removed very easily. Prying from below with a screwdriver, pull out the front panel towards ourselves. The panel has two plastic pins that simply slide into the holes on the cover.
Pulling towards you, remove the temperature regulator knob. The handle is not screwed on, just clamped by a spring plate. Unscrew the two screws from above and that's it, the cover is removed.
ATTENTION! Check the disconnection of the boiler from the mains again. Your life and health are very dear to all of us!
By the way, pay attention to the device indicated by the arrow. This is a safety device that is triggered when the water is overheated. A much needed gadget on your water heater. The red button on it is the restart button.
Then we disconnect all the wires, remove the metal panel on which the control is attached. In the wires, of course, you can get lost if you want, but it's difficult. They are all of different lengths, when assembled, they clearly fall into place. Just in case, you can additionally take pictures from different angles.
The arrows show the heating element fastening screws. Very comfortable design. There is no need to drain the water to replace any heating element.
We unscrew the flange (the water is naturally drained in advance). I will talk about how to drain the water from the boiler in another article. The flange is screwed on with six M8 nuts with a head of 13.
Lime, like all boilers that have not been cleaned for several years. There is nothing wrong with that. It's just a chemical process. Well, there will be a small colony of bacteria in this heap, a hundred million individuals. Above, I already wrote what to read in order to get additional incentive.
We wash, we clean. It is strictly forbidden to use abrasive paper and any kind of grinding power tools. Rubbed with a rag and that's enough. Do not scrub until shiny. Especially the water heater tank. Limescale on the tank walls provides additional protection against corrosion. Pay particular attention to the rubber gasket. I just wash it out with my fingers.
The protective anode in these boilers is attached to the top of the tank, it also changes through the top. From the inside, it is unrealistic to unscrew it with your hands. You only need to change from the outside. Not only is it necessary to remove the boiler itself, but for one person this is an unrealistic task. Plus, you need to remove the cork from above, pick out the foam, there is a foot there, an anode is screwed into the foot. Just like in a fairy tale: a needle in an egg, an egg in a duck, a duck in a duck. The futorka is unscrewed with some cunning key, either 32 or 36. And then it is necessary to screw it back, and even hermetically. Why is everything so inconvenient? Because when making a water heater, a hole is made on top of the tank for painting. So, in order not to brew it, and then paint it again, they came up with an anode to pour in there. They even came up with a theory that a top-mounted magnesium anode prolongs the life of a tank. Yeah, it extends by five days.
In short, the anodes in Gorenje are strong, they last for a long time. For peace of mind and additional protection, I screw any other magnesium anode to the temperature sensor and put everything back together. If you are wondering what anodes are for, then read the article "What is a magnesium anode for".
It is often asked whether it is necessary to lubricate the rubber gasket on the flange with silicone. I do not grease. Metal, pressure, temperature drops, water of dubious quality, how the silicone on the gasket will behave is not known to anyone. And I have not seen any silicone for rubber.
P.S. What if you need advice or consultation?
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DIY boiler repair Gorenje ogb 100 sedd / v9. Tena cleaning, replacing the anode on the M5 hairpin. Magnesium anodes for Boilers Water heaters
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My grandmother in the village has an old RAINFORD boiler leaking after seven years of operation. At first I hoped that the gasket had leaked where the heating element is screwed on - this was already two years ago. Then the heating element was simply removed and re-planted on the sealant. The leak has ceased. This time it turned out that the tank was leaking, but at first it was not possible to diagnose it, because everything was wet and the impression was that it was flowing from all the cracks. After the ten was removed and reinstalled, it became obvious that it was not leaking. The boiler tank has leaked. At this point, the service life of the water heater is over - it is necessary to install a new boiler. The BASIC MISTAKE, I believe, was that two years ago, when removing the heating element, we did not replace the magnesium anode. A photo from that time shows that a small piece remained of the magnesium alloy. And now only the steel core remains. I think if a new magnesium anode had been installed then, the boiler's service life would have been increased. Thanks for watching! Subscribe to the HotSEM channel! Find out what the next video will be about!
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The magnesium anode is needed in order to protect the storage water heater from corrosion, and also to prevent the formation of scale in the case of using a copper "wet" heating element. In an electrochemical reaction of the interaction of several metals that are in an aqueous solution, the metal with the lowest potential of the electrodes is exposed to corrosion. In the case of a boiler, the highest potential is in the copper from which the heating element is made. Next comes steel (water heater tank). The lowest potential is at the magnesium anode. It is he who undergoes corrosion, eventually completely collapsing, and therefore requires periodic replacement. The safety valve prevents water from flowing out of the tank if there is no water supply in the water supply system. Also, this valve serves to relieve pressure that is excessively formed in the tank during heating, and therefore an increase in the volume of water. Upon reaching pressure indicators of 8 atm. a small amount of water is discharged from a special hole in the valve, thereby reducing the pressure in the tank.
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In this video I will try to describe the process of repairing a water heater with my own hands. The breakdown is quite serious - the water heater is dripping. To determine the place through which water is oozing, we need to disassemble the water heater. Next, we order the necessary parts for the water heater. Parts for the water heater must be taken from stainless steel. We independently replace the flange and gasket of the water heater and assemble the water heater. In the video you will find short cuts on the above-described water heater repair. # water heater repair # repair the water heater # replace the flange # drip water heater # replace the water heater # replace the gaskets #MasteRrrTV