In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a side puncture of a tubeless tire from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Due to insufficient knowledge gained at a driving school, or economic insolvency, many car owners neglect basic safety rules for tire maintenance, which makes the operation of a vehicle dangerous and significantly reduces the life of tires. As a good proverb says, "Forewarned is forearmed."
Of course, one should not "bite" into academic encyclopedias and cram the basics of tire construction. But learning the basics of servicing tires and their operation is a must. Information about the repair of automobile tires will also be useful. After all, a poorly done repair can cost you your life if a tubeless tire bursts while driving, and you will be very lucky if the car does not tip over.
More importantly, tire sidewall repair is required as it requires more rigorous rubber hardfacing and multi-purpose adhesive seating. In this article we will try to describe the process as simple as possible. repair of side puncture tires.
Materials and algorithm of actions
In most cases, for repair of side puncture tires with dimensions of at least 3 millimeters and not more than 8 millimeters without disturbing the edging threads, a universal plaster is used, which restores the tightness of the tire in places where it is not possible to repair it with a fungus or a special flagellum. In cases of edge damage and through damage, radial plasters are used.
Standard tire repair using a fungus is carried out in the following sequence:
- Accurate location tire puncture.
- Detection and removal of objects from the tire.
- Processing the installation site of the future patch.
- Glue application.
- Installing a patch (fungus) on side puncture.
- Fixing the patch by applying a special sealant.
Video (click to play). |
Preparation of the damaged site for repair
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First, take a good look at the tire and the damaged area, make sure tubeless puncture to be repaired. First you need to remove the damaged rubber with a knife, and then, if necessary, remove the damaged, rusty or weakened cord wire. It is necessary to treat the damage from the outside and inside with a special cleaner, and then remove all dirt with a scraper.
Welding rubber to the place of repair
Stir the thermal solution thoroughly before using it. On the prepared surface of the funnel, it is required to apply the thermal solution in two layers from the inside and outside. Drying time for the first layer is 60 minutes, and for the second, about 10-15 minutes. The second layer should retain light adhesion properties. To fill the funnel, you need strips of raw rubber, which must be heated on a special stove. An extruder can be used to speed up the filling process.
Filling with hot rubber occurs in the following sequence:
- Close the funnel with one or two wet rubber pads and roll them in with a toothed roller.
- Sequentially fill the funnel with strips of raw rubber and roll them well to avoid the appearance of air bubbles.
- Cut off irregularities with a knife so that the level of wet rubber exceeds the general level of rubber by 3-5 millimeters, depending on the type of tires.
On the outside of the tire, we recommend applying auxiliary lines that go through the center of the damage to ensure that the vulcanizer is positioned exactly in the center of the tire damage.Thoroughly heat the surface of the filled funnel with thermal solution and immediately cover the inside and outside with heat-resistant material. Use a vulcanizer to vulcanize.
Installing a patch for a tubeless puncture
At repairing a side puncture of a tire you should be extremely careful and check how well the rubber surfacing is done before installing the patch. If a large amount of air bubbles is found in the fused rubber, the repair site should be cleaned from it and the vulcanization procedure repeated.
To correctly install the patch, you will first need to draw lines in the axial and radial directions on the inner side of the tire in the center of the place of the former damage, then draw auxiliary lines in the center of the patch. Install it in such a way that the auxiliary lines on the plaster and rubber coincide. With an allowance of 10 millimeters, circle the patch along the contour.
On the inner surface at the place of repair, clean it with a special cleaner and a scraper. Remove all working dirt, fine rubber residues, dust and other foreign elements. Check the quality carefully tubeless puncture repair and a layer of reclaimed rubber.
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After reading this article, you have gained basic knowledge, and if your car happened tire puncture, repair you can do it yourself. Be attentive on the roads and respect other road users. Carefully monitor the technical condition of your vehicle, your life and the lives of the people around you depend on it. Spend just a few minutes researching the information. Easy roads for you, reliable car and safe driving.
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One of the most common problems with wheels that arise during the operation of a car are punctures and cuts. They lead to the fact that the operation of the damaged wheel is impossible. But such problems are relatively easy to fix by repairing the resulting damage.
The method of restoring the tightness of a wheel depends on the type of tire. Tubeless and tubeless cars are now used on cars. But in view of the fact that the second option is outdated and is used less and less, we will not consider methods for repairing chamber tires.
But here it is worth noting that before choosing a recovery method, you should definitely make sure that the tire is tubeless. Of course, the easiest way to find out is by disassembling the wheel. But there are other signs that do not require any disassembly. There are only two of them:
- Marking. All tires are marked with information, which includes dimensional parameters, design and operation features, as well as its type. If, looking at the markings, you find the word "tubeless", then the tire is tubeless. The chamber is designated as "tube type". In some cases, not words are used for designation, but letter indices - for a tubeless one it is "T", and for a chamber one - "TT".
- Nipple. If the marking is erased, or the type designation is not found, you can carefully examine the nipple. In a tubeless tire, the valve is not high and has a flange at the base, which ensures a snug fit in the opening of the disc. In a chamber tire, the nipple is high and if you move it, it easily changes its position relative to the disc. Alternatively, you can lower the wheel and try to push the valve inward (in a tubeless tube, this cannot be done without applying significant effort, since it sits tightly);
We figured out the type of tire, now about the repair.The best option for a puncture or cut is to go to a tire service station, where the wheel will be disassembled and the damage will be repaired from the inside with high quality. But this is far from always possible, so you will have to repair tubeless tires with your own hands.
There are several ways to restore tightness. It is worth noting that if a self-tapping screw, a piece of wire or a nail is found in the tire, do not rush to pull it out. While the element that pierced the wheel is in it, it clogs the hole. And although the air through it will etch, but not much. It will be quite possible to operate the car, periodically checking the condition of the tire and pumping it up.
If you pull out the element, air will escape through the hole very quickly. In this case, repair is required, which is reduced to blocking the resulting hole.
Repair kit for tubeless tires (awl, rasp, 3 harnesses)
The most common option is to use special harnesses. They are usually sold in a repair kit for repairing tubeless tires. Often such a set is popularly called a "wheel kit". The repair kit includes:
- harnesses;
- an awl for cleaning a hole (with a screw thread);
- an awl for pulling a tourniquet;
- glue;
Repair using such a set is convenient in that it does not require removing and disassembling the wheel, since it is possible to close the breakdown without any problems even on a car.
A little about the types of harnesses, since they come in different types. The most common are cord, treated with butyl rubber impregnation. They are the cheapest, but they have one drawback - over time, the material dries up and air begins to escape through it. Although re-sealing with a new harness solves this problem.
The second option is rubber bands with an adhesive sheath. They are more expensive, but the service life is higher. But for such products, a special pulling awl is required - with a side exit.
The third type is a cord made of porous rubber with the same adhesive shell. They differ in that, after tightening, they are able to work out the entire service life of the tire. But they require special awls for cleaning and tightening. Note that the harnesses themselves can be bought separately, and not as part of a set, which allows you to buy a set just once, and then buy them in addition as you use it.
The tire repair technology with harness is very simple:
The first step is to mark the puncture
Second stage - determine the puncture angle
The third stage - we coat the puncture with a spiral awl along the entire depth
The fourth stage - we place the tourniquet in the needle
The fifth stage - we coat the tourniquet with glue on both sides, then place the needle with the tourniquet until it stops in the damaged area of the tire and remove the handle with the needle in the opposite direction
- We remove the element that punctured the tire, then lower the tire. If the puncture is not visible, the inflated wheel can be removed and immersed in water. On the way, so as not to remove the wheel, it can be poured with water, after which the breakdown will be visible by air bubbles. After finding the puncture, we mark it.
- We take an awl for cleaning the hole and put it in the puncture, after which we release the handle and determine the angle of the hole position.
- Apply a layer of glue to the surface of the awl and screw it all the way into the tire, then turn it out. We make several such passes, each time applying glue to the awl. At the last pass, we sink the awl all the way down and leave it in this position.
- We take the harness and install it in the slot of the awl for tightening (if there is a protective film, remove it first). Then we cover the entire surface of the bundle with a layer of glue.
- Unscrew the cleaning awl and quickly drive the broaching awl into the hole. In this case, it should be monitored so that the ends of the bundle do not fall through (they must be on the surface). We take out the awl, while the tourniquet remains in the hole.
- We inflate the wheel and check the tightness with water.
- Cut off the protruding ends of the bundle.
It should be noted that in this way it is recommended to seal punctures only on the working surface. As for damage to the sidewalls, the tourniquet can only be used to patch up the breakdown for a short time (to get to the service station, where the sidewall puncture will be sealed with vulcanization and patches).
If a cut with a short length is closed, but one cord is not enough for sealing, then you can stretch two of them in order to reliably clog the sample.
The second method of repairing a tubeless with your own hands is carried out using special sealants in the form of a spray. On the market, we purchase a can of such a product (the kit includes a tube with a tip for screwing onto the nipple) and take it with us. Note that only well-known brands should be purchased, otherwise a low-quality sealant will not cope with the task at hand.
The breakdown is sealed with a sealant like this: first, we remove the element that pierced the tire (if it is not visible, then you do not need to look for the hole). Next, the damaged wheel must be jacked up. Using a tube with a tip, we connect the can with the nipple. We inject all the available sealant inside the tire, after which we turn the wheel several times so that the sealant spreads evenly over the inner surface. We are waiting for a couple of minutes for the product to fill the hole and thicken, thereby clogging the existing hole.
The following self-repairs involve removing and disassembling the wheel, since the puncture is repaired from the inside. Minor damages are repaired with patches glued to the breakdown site. Medium-sized breakdowns are eliminated by "fungi". For large damages, vulcanization is already involved. These methods are often used at service stations. On the way, it is very difficult to use them due to the need to disassemble the wheel.
Every motorist should be able to find and repair punctures on his own. It is much cheaper and faster than calling a specialist. But it is not always possible to find a puncture site in tubeless tires. The exception is the protruding caps of screws or nails.
Do not get rid of foreign bodies in the tire. Unlike chamber products, tubeless ones lose air for an extremely long time. Better to get to the parking lot or garage, and already carry out repair work. Photo: my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1335
It is not always possible to quickly determine the puncture site of tubeless tires. It is best to wet the tire with water. Protruding bubbles will indicate the puncture site (just like in the photo below). If you are on the road and do not have water with you, you can use an anti-freeze liquid designed for washing windows.
This simple trick will help determine the puncture site in a tubeless tire. Photo:>
The most important advantage of tubeless tires is the ability to plug a puncture with a rubber band. No need to disassemble or remove the wheel. It is only necessary to turn the steering wheel to the side, and then raise the vehicle with a jack. Finding such a tourniquet on sale will not be difficult.
The most common option is to use a cord harness. It is based on nylon fiber impregnated with sticky butyl rubber. To install the harness, you must use a spiral and introductory (installation) awl. With the help of the first, a through puncture is carried out. Rotating it clockwise, you should clean the place of dirt. The awl significantly widens the channel, pushing apart the wires of the metal cord. However, they are not damaged.
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The tourniquet must be threaded into the hole of the adjusting awl.The spiral product must be pushed out of the puncture, while the awl with a tourniquet must be pushed at a distance of 3-4 centimeters. Pulling out the awl, the tourniquet will remain in place. However, the excess must be cut off (about 2-3 millimeters should remain above the protector). The wheel needs to be pumped up and you can safely hit the road.
Rubber bands with an adhesive sheath are considered extremely reliable. Photo: pqautoservices.com
The technology is extremely similar to cord products, but there are certain peculiarities. Using the awl as a rasp is highly discouraged. This is due to the fact that the awl does not fit between the metal cord threads. It cuts them off, while during installation, the tourniquet is cut into sharp ends.
You can replace the straight introductory awl with a product that has a side exit.
The basis of such products is nylon cord. Outside, the tourniquet has a special adhesive layer. Photo:>
Installation is carried out in the same way as conventional rubber models. The glue should be used according to the instructions.
Reinforced tourniquets are slightly more expensive than rubber ones, but they are more durable, reliable and durable. However, they do not provide an eternal guarantee.
Repairing tubeless tires can be done with a sealant. Photo:
Each balloon has instructions for use. If it is absent, or not translated into Russian, you should adhere to the following recommendations and rules:
- First, you need to get rid of the foreign object that caused the puncture of the wheel. If this object is stuck too deep in the tire, it is better to use pliers. After removing it, it is better to throw it as far away from the road as possible in order to protect it from punctures by other drivers;
- It is best to heat the sealant bottle during the winter season. It is forbidden to use open fire.
The disadvantage is that the tire is still damaged and the puncture is not reinforced with an internal patch.
You can get rid of small punctures with a universal patch. Remove the tire from the wheel, and then glue the hole from the inside. If the puncture has a diameter of more than 6 millimeters, you can get rid of it with the help of a special “leg” or “fungus”. These materials can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
- "Fungi" - elements that are made of rubber. The product is a mixture of a universal patch and a leg. It is coated with a cold vulcanization layer. A “fungus” is installed inside the tire.
- The “legs” are also made of rubber with a cold vulcanization layer. Such elements have a cylindrical shape and are used to repair a tubeless treadmill.
You will learn about the features of tubeless tire repair in this video:
The highest quality tubeless tire repair is the insert often referred to as the “anchor”. This product greatly enhances the tread tread. "Anchor" is made of porous rubber, which is reinforced with a special adhesive layer.
To prepare a tire puncture, you must use a special cutter with a diameter of 6 millimeters. It has no effect on the cord. Whereas for installation, an awl with a side exit is used. The reliability and service life of the tire directly depends on the exact adherence to the technology of repair work.
The advantage of such repair methods is the speed of execution and the low cost of products. However, you can get rid of the puncture only by removing the tire from the wheel, which is not always possible on the road (with the exception of the anchor).
The choice of a method for repairing tubeless tires directly depends on the specific case and the availability of materials, as well as special tools. Vehicle location, driver training and skills play a big role.
In ancient times, there was GOST 5170-73 "First aid kits for the repair of pneumatic tires."What components were not in these first-aid kits! And the fungus, and the grater with the plaster, and the roller ... And now each manufacturer decides for himself what to put in his set.
Let's check what the descendants of those travel first aid kits are capable of. The editorial office of Grant pushed for decisive action, one of the wheels of which expired. Instead of a tire service, we visited several shops where we purchased 16 different tubeless tire repair kits. The range of prices is sevenfold, although the principle of operation is the same. After detecting a puncture, you need to remove the culprit of the trouble (self-tapping screw, nail), then widen the hole and tightly insert the folded rubber flagellum into it. The nuances of technology and tools may vary, but in general, the repair algorithm is just that.
Having repaired the tire, which met a self-tapping screw on the road, we decided to test all 16 repair kits on the poor thing. However, in the end, only 13 stabbing wounds were inflicted on her, since three sets were rejected at once: the flagella in them are frankly bad, instantly tearing in their hands.
The tools also vary quite a bit. So, the nice handle in the CityUp CA-793 set managed to turn against the tip at the very first attempt to get inside the tire.
Note that in some kits, no "picks" are provided, and in some places there is no glue. And the names of the tools are different for almost all manufacturers - in the explanations we give exactly the "proprietary" version.
A tire with so many holes in the tread has passed the test at speeds of over a hundred for a couple of weeks without losing a drop of precious air. For the sake of experiment, we didn't even cut a few ponytails - and we all resisted. A small puncture in the sidewall was also managed with the help of a flagellum. Although the reliability of sealing is noticeably lower than in the case when the harness is kept in a thick (even for a worn tire) tread layer.
At the close of the curtain, another test was carried out - a kind of "everyday" test: they pierced the sidewall of the tire, like some bully with a knife or a screwdriver. We were no longer engaged in comparative tests, but simply fought for survivability. By the way, the same damage occurs, for example, when the tire contacts the curb or the sharp edge of the pit. Such a temporary repair is a priori more difficult: the sidewall is thinner than the tread, and therefore it is more difficult for the flagellum to stay in the hole.
Equipment: spiral awl, harness installation tool, raw rubber strips (5 pieces),
adhesive activator
The spiral awl destroys the cord - when installing, you can hear the cracking of breaking threads. However, the repaired wheel runs successfully.
Equipment: tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eyelet, reinforced cords (5 pieces), glue
The beautiful handle of the rasp immediately turned - the set can be removed from the test. Okay, we took an analogue of the "pick" from another set ... As a result, the wheel was repaired, but one cannot help advising to purchase such a first-aid kit.
Equipment: twisted tip tool, eye tool, wet rubber activator, wet rubber strips (8 pieces), cutter
The spiral awl is good, the handles are comfortable. Note the presence of a cutter in the kit - in other kits it is not. I liked the first aid kit, but a little expensive.
Equipment: tool with twisted tip, tool with eyelet, glue-activator for raw rubber, rubber cords (3 pieces)
I didn’t like the picker: it was tearing the cord. But the wheel was still repaired.
Equipment: tool with twisted tip, tool with eyelet, glue-activator for wet rubber, harnesses (5 pieces)
A tool with a hole such as the eye of a needle has a groove too wide. Nevertheless, the kit passed the test.
Equipment: a tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eyelet for installing a harness, reinforced harnesses (5 pieces), glue
An inexpensive set coped with the task successfully, demonstrating the best value for money.
Equipment: rasp for cleaning and shaping a hole, an awl with an eyelet, reinforced cords (5 pieces), glue
The handle is sloppy.
The glue feels very runny. However, it works.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, wet rubber activator, black tapered plugs (6 pieces)
The stepped "wedges" broke almost immediately. Fail.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, raw rubber strips (10 pieces), adhesive activator
The set failed pretty quickly: weak unreinforced strips of raw rubber tore at the very first attempt to push them into the workplace with the supplied tool. Doesn't matter!
Equipment: pressure gauge, rasp, eye tool, repair harnesses (10 pieces), glue, 4 caps, 4 spools, universal wrench for valve thread cleaning, 10 camera patches
The most expensive, but also the most complete kit in our selection. The kit coped with the puncture. However, the tool is inconvenient. And not everyone will need most of the content.
Equipment: rasp, needle tool, repair strips (3 pieces), glue
The glue is liquid, like water. But the wheel was repaired pretty quickly.
Equipment: tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eyelet for harnesses, harnesses for repair (5 pieces)
There is no glue in the kit. However, the set has fulfilled its direct function.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, long black "self-vulcanizing" cords (4 pieces)
There is no glue in the set. The tourniquets look very thin. There is no tool for preparing a hole in the set - you have to act immediately with a "needle". However, we have sealed the hole.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, wet rubber activator, tapered red plugs (6 pieces)
The red "gags" of the stepped shape break even before they are inserted into the tire.
Fail.
Equipment: spiral file, awl with eyelet, bundles (3 pieces), glue
An inexpensive set did the job successfully.
Equipment: tool with file tip, tool with eyelet, green rubber bands (5 pieces), adhesive activator
The tip of the pick tool is too thin. But the wheel was repaired.
Of these sets, we single out the Titan T-609 for 130 rubles - at an affordable price, it is equipped with a set of tools that did not cause any complaints from us.
Separately, we note the DoneDeal DD0320 for 540 rubles - the only set in which a cutter is provided to cut the ends of the bundles sticking out of the tire. If not for the price, he would be a champion.
The most general recommendations are as follows: the flagella should be thick and reinforced, the "pick" should not be too "toothy", but glue is still needed.
Determine the puncture site. If an external examination does not help, we immerse the wheel in water or, at worst, douse it with water to detect air bubbles. Sometimes for this you need to increase the pressure to 2-3 bar. Having found a puncture, we mark it. Using the pliers, we extract the culprit.
We take the tool [1] for stripping and holes (in common parlance - "pick"), install it in the puncture site and release the handle - by the angle of inclination we are trying to determine the direction of the puncture.
We apply a layer of glue to the surface of the "pick" (if it is present in the repair kit) and first screw it all the way into the tire, and then pull it out. The operation must be repeated two to three times. On the last pass, leave the tool in the recessed position.
We take the tourniquet and install it in the eyelet of the awl (also called the “needle”). We apply glue to the surface of the bundle.
We take out the tool for stripping and shaping and quickly drive an awl with a tourniquet into the hole [2]... The ends of the bundle must always remain on the surface.
We take out the awl - the tourniquet should remain in the hole.
The tire is the same, inside view [3]... Filmed with a hidden camera ...
We inflate the wheel and check the tightness with water or at least by ear.
Cut off the ends of the bundle sticking out from the outside, flush with the tire tread surface [4].
- Use only "classic" filaments reinforced with synthetic threads. Outwardly, they resemble a twisted rope impregnated with a rubber-like compound. Do not use tapered plugs or strips without reinforcement, otherwise you will cry.
- It is advisable to choose a "pick" with a T-shaped handle. Otherwise, corns are guaranteed.
- We do not recommend using sharp, rasp cleaners for repairs. They almost always break the cord.
- Before starting the repair, the wheel must be pumped up to at least 0.5–1.0 bar.
- If you doubt the quality of your repair, move the repaired wheel back.
- If a puncture is found while driving, and it is impossible to carry out immediate repairs, do not rush to remove the nail or self-tapping screw sticking out of the tire. While it is in place, the tire will not deflate as quickly. It is better to pump up the punctured wheel from time to time before the start of a full repair.
- Remember that with the glue included in the kit, the installation of the flagella is easier and the chances of a long service life are higher.
- If the kit has been lying in the trunk for a long time and the glue has dried, you can use gasoline (but not diesel fuel) instead.
We wish everyone that our advice will never come in handy! Bon Voyage!
Despite the obvious progress in the automotive industry, the trivial problems associated with the car, unfortunately, do not go away. So, for example, even the newest and most sophisticated “gelding” can become a victim of the simplest nail, which is already “a hundred years old”.
Therefore, such skills as changing a wheel with your own hands, as well as repairing a “tubeless” will always be useful even for those who have a cool foreign car. Of course, there will be those among you who will say that the one who has a cool "gelding" can not do this and call the gun carriage or service employees. Well, in theory, yes, but there are places in Russia where there is no service station, and calling employees to the place is simply impossible due to the lack of cellular network coverage. And in general, it is unlikely that our site is read by "mersovody", but the owner of "classics" or some "dozen" such knowledge oh how useful. In principle, it is easier, and it would seem, rather, to change the wheel, and upon arrival give the wheel for repair to some craftsman, who for a symbolic payment will repair the puncture and bring the wheel back to life. But as I already said, situations are different, just like people, it is even difficult for one to even change a wheel, while the other has never been to a service station in his life and always fixes everything himself. Well, enough reasoning, let's, as they say, from words to deeds.
There are several ways to repair tubeless wheels. The most popular among them are: tire repair with a harness, puncture repair with a crib patch, as well as with the help of special sprays that “tighten” the puncture site, eliminating air leakage. In order to repair a tubeless tire, you need to have some tools and accessories, although it largely depends on which method of repair you choose, as well as the degree of damage to the wheel itself.
To execute repairing a tire using a special repair harness, it is necessary to have a special kit to carry out this kind of repair. The set includes: two awls (for preparing and installing the harness), glue, a set of harnesses. In principle, this set may differ depending on the manufacturer of this set.
- The first thing to do is to remove the wheel and find the puncture site. If the puncture site is visible and accessible, then the wheel can be left on. If the puncture cannot be found, you can use the old “old-fashioned” method: lower the wheel to the input and look where the air bubbles come from. Or, in extreme cases, we take a bottle of water and water the tire, watching for bubbles.
- Further, the place for convenience is marked with a marker or chalk, and is cleaned of dirt. If there is a foreign object at the puncture site, remove it.
- After that, the hole is cleaned with a special awl, that is, preparation for installing the harness.
- When the place is cleaned and prepared, a repair harness is installed in an awl with an eyelet, coated with glue, and carefully inserted into the puncture site.
- The awl is removed after you make sure that the tourniquet has passed through and the puncture site is sealed.
- If the hole is large and the installed harness has not completely sealed the hole, steps “4” and “5” should be repeated.
- After completing the procedure, the ponytails sticking out of the hole are carefully trimmed.
- We swing the wheel, check the tire pressure and continue driving.
This method, with the right approach and proper execution, allows you to reliably glue the tubeless, which will last a long time.
For those who do not like to read or do not perceive information in printed form, I suggest watching a video on how to seal a tubeless wheel in road conditions using an awl and a tourniquet.
This method involves removing the wheel and the tire itself from the rim. To work, you must have: patches in the form of fungi, which are sold in all car dealerships, sandpaper (or another tool for roughing the surface), glue.
- The first step is to clean the puncture site, wash it and remove all unnecessary from the tire.
- Next, you need to clean the puncture site from the inside using sandpaper or, alternatively, you can use a drill with a nozzle.
- After that, we select the fungus of the required diameter and size, depending on how large your puncture is.
- Lubricate the fungus with glue, then install it in the puncture site and press it tightly. Depending on the size of the puncture and the quality of the glue, let the patch dry, after which you can start assembling.
Tire sealant, which is popularly nicknamed “a spare tire in a spray can,” as a rule, is included in a repair kit in “premium” cars, where do-it-yourself car repair is, in principle, not provided. However, over time, such cans appeared on the free market, and now any lazy person can quickly and inexpensively glue the wheel automotive tubeless tire sealant.
- The first step is to unscrew the nipple, although it all depends on the type of sealant and the way it is used, some manufacturers claim that there is no need to unscrew the nipple.
- Next, the contents of the bottle are squeezed into the nipple hole, according to the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. After that, the nipple is screwed into place.
- The wheel is inflated to the required pressure and already 10 minutes after the completion of the procedure, you can continue to move.
Despite the seeming simplicity and "frivolity" of such a repair of tubeless tires, the sealant is quite popular among motorists, who confirm the uniqueness and high efficiency of this method of repairing wheels.
Video (click to play). |