In detail: do-it-yourself tubeless tire side puncture repair from a real master for my.housecope.com.
Due to insufficient knowledge gained in a driving school or economic insolvency, many car owners neglect elementary tire maintenance safety rules, which makes vehicle operation dangerous and significantly reduces the life of tires. As the saying goes, "Forewarned is forearmed."
Of course, one should not “bite” into academic encyclopedias and cram the basics of tire building. But to learn the basics of tire maintenance and operation is a must. It will also be useful information about the repair of car tires. After all, a poorly done repair can cost you your life if a tubeless tire bursts while driving, and you'll be lucky if the car doesn't tip over.
More importantly, the repair of the sidewall of the tire, since it requires more thorough procedures for surfacing the rubber and fitting the universal patch. In this article, we will try to describe the process as simply as possible. tire side puncture repair.
Materials and algorithm of actions
In most cases for tire side puncture repair with sizes not less than 3 mm and not more than 8 mm without breaking the threads of the edge, a universal patch is used, which restores the tightness of the tire in places where it is not possible to repair with a fungus or a special flagellum. In cases of damage to the edging and through damage, radial patches are used.
Standard tire repair with a fungus is performed in the following sequence:
- Precise location tire puncture.
- Detection and extraction of objects that have got there from the tire.
- Processing the installation site of the future patch.
- Applying glue.
- Installing a patch (fungus) on tire side puncture.
- Fixing the patch by applying a special sealant.
Video (click to play). |
Preparing the damage site for repair
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First, take a good look at the tire and the damaged area, make sure that tubeless tire puncture to be repaired. First you need to remove the damaged rubber with a knife, and then, if necessary, remove the damaged, rusted or loose cord wire. It is necessary to treat the damage from the outer and inner sides with a special cleaner, and then remove all contaminants with a scraper.
Welding of rubber in the place of repair
Before using the thermal solution, mix it thoroughly. On the prepared surface of the funnel, it is required to apply a thermal solution in two layers from the inside and outside. The drying time of the first layer is 60 minutes, and the second one is about 10-15 minutes. The second layer should retain light adhesion properties. To fill the funnel, you will need strips of raw rubber, which must be heated on a special stove. An extruder can be used to speed up the filling process.
Filling with heated rubber occurs in the following sequence:
- Close the funnel with one or two raw rubber pads and roll them with a toothed roller.
- Consistently fill the funnel with strips of raw rubber and roll them well to eliminate the appearance of air bubbles.
- Cut off irregularities with a knife so that the level of raw rubber exceeds the general level of rubber by 3-5 millimeters, depending on the type of tire.
On the outer side of the tire, we recommend applying auxiliary lines that pass through the center of the damage to ensure that the vulcanizer is positioned exactly in the center of the tire damage.Thoroughly treat the surface of the filled funnel with a thermal solution and immediately cover the inside and outside with a heat-resistant material. Use a vulcanizer to carry out the vulcanization operation.
Installing a patch for a tubeless tire puncture
At tire side puncture repair you should be extremely careful and check how well the rubber is surfacing before installing the patch. If a large number of air bubbles are found in the deposited rubber, it is necessary to clean the place of repair from it and repeat the vulcanization procedure.
To properly install the patch, you will first need to draw lines in the axial and radial directions on the inside of the tire in the center of the site of the former damage, then apply auxiliary lines in the center of the patch. Install it in such a way that the auxiliary lines on the patch and rubber match. With an allowance of 10 millimeters, circle the patch along the contour.
On the inner surface at the place of repair, clean with a special cleaner and a scraper. Remove all working dirt, small rubber residues, dust and other foreign elements. Carefully check the quality tubeless tire puncture repair and a layer of retreaded rubber.
He who owns the information owns the world
After reading this article, you have gained basic knowledge, and if your car has tire puncture, repair you can do it yourself. Be careful on the roads and respect other road users. Carefully monitor the technical condition of your vehicle, your life and the lives of those around you depend on it. Take just a few minutes to study the information. Easy roads for you, reliable car and safe driving.
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One of the most common wheel problems that occur during the operation of a car are punctures and cuts. They lead to the fact that the operation of the damaged wheel is impossible. But such problems are relatively easy to eliminate by repairing the resulting damage.
The method of re-sealing a wheel depends on the type of tire. On cars, tubeless and chamber are now used. But due to the fact that the second option is outdated and is used less and less, we will not consider methods for repairing chamber tires.
But here it is worth noting that before choosing a recovery method, you should make sure that the tire is tubeless. Of course, the easiest way to find out is by disassembling the wheel. But there are other signs that do not require any disassembly. There are only two of them:
- Marking. Information is applied to all tires, which includes dimensional parameters, design and operation features, as well as its type. If looking at the markings you find the word "tubeless" - it means that the tire is tubeless. The chamber one is designated as "tube type". In some cases, not words are used for designation, but letter indices - for a tubeless one it is “T”, and for a chamber one it is “TT”.
- Nipple. If the marking is erased, or the type designation is not found, you can carefully examine the nipple. In a tubeless tire, the valve is not tall and has a flange at the base that ensures a snug fit in the disc hole. In the chamber tire, the nipple is high and if you move it, it easily changes position relative to the disk. Alternatively, you can lower the wheel and try to push the valve inward (in a tubeless it is impossible to do this without applying significant effort, since it sits tightly);
We figured out the type of tire, now about the repair.The best option for a puncture or cut is to contact a tire service station, where the wheel will be disassembled and the damage repaired from the inside. But this is far from always possible, so you will have to repair tubeless tires with your own hands.
There are several ways to restore tightness. It is worth noting that if a protruding screw, piece of wire or nail is found in the tire, do not rush to pull it out. While the element that has pierced the wheel is in it, it clogs the hole. And although the air through it will be etched, but not much. It will be quite possible to operate the car, periodically checking the condition of the tire and pumping it up.
If you pull out the element, the air will exit through the hole very quickly. In this case, repair is required, which boils down to blockage of the resulting hole.
Tubeless tire repair kit (awl, rasp, 3 bands)
The most common option is to use special harnesses. They are usually sold in a repair kit for repairing tubeless tires. Often such a set is popularly called a "first aid kit for wheels." The repair kit includes:
- harnesses;
- awl for cleaning the hole (with screw thread);
- an awl for pulling the tourniquet;
- glue;
Repair using such a kit is convenient because it does not require removal and disassembly of the wheel, since you can repair a breakdown without problems even on a car.
A little about the types of harnesses, as they come in different types. The most common are cord, treated with butyl rubber impregnation. They are the cheapest, but they have one drawback - over time, the material dries out and air begins to escape through it. Although re-terminating with a new harness solves this problem.
The second option is rubber bands with an adhesive sheath. They are more expensive, but the service life is longer. But for such products, a special awl for pulling is required - with a side exit.
The third type is porous rubber bundles with the same adhesive sheath. They differ in that they are able to work out the entire life of the tire after tightening. But they require special awls for cleaning and tightening. Note that the harnesses themselves can be bought separately, and not as part of a kit, which allows you to buy a set only once, and then buy more of them as you use them.
Tire repair technology using harnesses is very simple:
The first step is to mark the puncture
The second stage - determine the puncture angle
The third stage - we coat the puncture with a spiral awl over the entire depth
The fourth stage - we place the tourniquet in the needle
Fifth stage - coat the tourniquet with glue on both sides, then place the needle with the tourniquet all the way into the damaged area of the tire and remove the handle with the needle in the opposite direction
- We remove the element that punctured the tire, then lower the tire. If the puncture is not visible, you can remove the inflated wheel and immerse it in water. On the way, in order not to remove the wheel, it can be poured with water, after which the breakdown will be visible by air bubbles. After finding the puncture, we mark it.
- We take an awl to clean the hole and put it in the puncture, after which we release the handle and determine the angle of the hole.
- We apply a layer of glue on the surface of the awl and screw it all the way into the tire, then turn it out. We make several such passes, each time applying glue to the awl. At the last pass, we sink the awl to the stop and leave it in this position.
- We take the tourniquet and install it in the slot of the awl for tightening (if there is a protective film, we first remove it). Then cover the entire surface of the tourniquet with a layer of glue.
- We unscrew the awl for cleaning and quickly drive the awl for pulling into the hole. In this case, it should be controlled that the ends of the bundle do not fail (they must be on the surface). We take out the awl, while the tourniquet remains in the hole.
- We inflate the wheel and check the tightness with water.
- Cut off the protruding ends of the bundle.
It is worth noting that in this way it is recommended to close up punctures only on the working surface. With regard to damage to the sidewalls, the tourniquet can only be used to repair the breakdown for a short time (to get to the service station, where the sidewall puncture will be repaired with the help of vulcanization and patches).
If a cut that is short in length is closed, but one tourniquet is not enough for embedding, then two of them can be pulled in order to securely clog the sample.
The second method of do-it-yourself tubeless repair is carried out using special sealants in the form of a spray. On the market, we buy a can of such a product (the kit comes with a tube with a tip for screwing onto the nipple) and take it with us. Note that only well-known brands should be purchased, otherwise a low-quality sealant cannot cope with the task.
The breakdown is sealed with sealant as follows: first, remove the element that pierced the tire (if it is not visible, then you do not need to look for a hole). Next, the damaged wheel must be jacked up. Using a tube with a tip, we connect the can to the nipple. We inject all the existing sealant into the tire, after which we turn the wheel several times so that the sealant evenly spreads over the inner surface. We wait a couple of minutes for the product to fill the hole and thicken, thereby clogging the existing hole.
The following types of self-repairs involve removing and disassembling the wheel, since the puncture is repaired from the inside. Minor damage is repaired with patches glued to the breakdown site. Medium-sized breakdowns are eliminated by "fungi". For large damage, vulcanization is already involved. These methods are often used in service stations. On the way, it is very difficult to use them because of the need to disassemble the wheel.
Each motorist should be able to find and fix punctures on their own. It is much cheaper and faster than calling a specialist. That's just to find a puncture in tubeless tires is not always possible. An exception is the protruding hats of self-tapping screws or nails.
Do not get rid of foreign bodies in the tire. Unlike chamber products, tubeless ones lose air for an extremely long time. It is better to get to the parking lot or garage, and already carry out repair work. Photo: my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1335
It is not always possible to quickly determine the puncture site of tubeless tires. It is best to wet the tire with water. The protruding bubbles will indicate the puncture site (just like in the photo below). If you are on the road, and there is no water with you, you can use an anti-freeze liquid designed for washing windows.
Such a simple trick will help determine the location of a puncture in a tubeless tire. Photo:>
The most important advantage of tubeless tires is the ability to plug a puncture with a sealing band. There is no need to disassemble or remove the wheel. It is only necessary to turn the steering wheel to the side, and then raise the vehicle with a jack. Finding such a harness on sale is not difficult.
The most common option is to use a cord harness. It is based on nylon fiber impregnated with sticky butyl rubber. To install the harness, you must use a spiral and introductory (installation) awl. With the help of the first, a through puncture is carried out. Rotating it clockwise, you should clean the place of dirt. The awl significantly expands the channel, pushing the wires of the metal cord. However, they are not damaged.
The cost of an engine overhaul depends on many factors. Details are on our website.
The tourniquet must be threaded into the hole of the installation awl.The spiral product must be pulled out of the puncture, while the awl with the tourniquet should be pushed a distance of 3-4 centimeters. Pulling the awl, the tourniquet will remain in place. Nevertheless, the excess must be cut off (about 2-3 millimeters should remain above the tread). The wheel needs to be pumped up and you can safely hit the road.
Rubber bands with an adhesive sheath are considered extremely reliable. Photo: pqautoservices.com
The technology is very similar to cord products, but there are certain features. It is strongly not recommended to use an awl as a rasp. This is due to the fact that the awl does not fit between the metal cord threads. It breaks them off, while during installation the tourniquet is cut on sharp ends.
You can replace the direct introductory awl with a product that has a side exit.
The basis of such products is a nylon cord. Outside, the tourniquet has a special adhesive layer. Photo:>
Installation is carried out according to the same principle as conventional rubber models. Glue should be used according to the instructions.
Reinforced harnesses are slightly more expensive than rubber ones, but they are stronger, more reliable and durable. However, they do not provide a permanent guarantee.
Repair of tubeless tires can be done with sealant. Photo:
Each balloon has instructions for use. If it is missing or not translated into Russian, you should adhere to the following recommendations and rules:
- Initially, you need to get rid of the foreign object that caused the puncture of the wheel. If this item is too deep in the tire, it is better to use pliers. After extraction, it is better to throw it away from the road as far as possible in order to protect other drivers from punctures;
- In the winter season, the sealant bottle is best heated. It is forbidden to use open fire.
The disadvantage is that the tire is still damaged and the puncture is not aggravated by the internal patch.
You can get rid of small punctures with a universal patch. Remove the tire from the wheel, then seal the hole from the inside. If the puncture has a diameter of more than 6 millimeters, you can get rid of it with a special “leg” or “fungus”. These materials can be purchased from your nearest auto parts store.
- "Fungi" - elements that are made of rubber. The product is a mixture of a universal patch and a leg. It is covered with a layer of cold vulcanization. A “fungus” is installed inside the tire.
- The "legs" are also made from cold vulcanized rubber. Such elements have a cylindrical shape and are used to repair the treadmill of a tubeless tire.
You will learn about the features of repairing tubeless tires from this video:
The highest quality tubeless tire repair is the insert, often referred to as the “anchor”. This product greatly enhances the tread tread. The “anchor” is made of porous rubber, which is reinforced with a special adhesive layer.
To prepare a tire puncture, it is necessary to use a special cutter with a diameter of 6 millimeters. It has no effect on the cord. Whereas for installation, an awl with a side exit is used. The reliability and service life of the tire directly depends on the exact observance of the technology of repair work.
The advantage of such repair methods is the speed of execution and low cost of products. However, you can get rid of a puncture only by removing the tire from the wheel, which is not always possible on the road (with the exception of the anchor).
The choice of repair method for tubeless tires directly depends on the specific case and the availability of materials, as well as special tools. The location of the vehicle, the training and skills of the driver play a big role.
In ancient times, there was GOST 5170-73 "First-aid kits for the repair of pneumatic tires."What components were not in these first-aid kits! And a fungus, and a grater with a band-aid, and a roller ... And now each manufacturer decides for himself what exactly to put in his kit.
Let's check what the descendants of those travel kits are capable of. Pushed to decisive action editorial Grant, one of the wheels of which has expired. Instead of a tire changer, we visited several shops where we purchased 16 different tubeless tire repair kits. The spread of prices is sevenfold, although the principle of operation is the same. After detecting a puncture, you need to remove the culprit of the trouble (a self-tapping screw, a nail), then expand the hole and firmly insert a folded rubber flagellum into it. The nuances of technology and tools may vary, but in general, the repair algorithm is exactly the same.
Having repaired the tire, which met the self-tapping screw on the road, we decided to test all 16 repair kits on the poor thing. However, in the end, only 13 stab wounds were inflicted on her, since three sets were rejected at once: the flagella in them are frankly bad, instantly torn in the hands.
The instruments also differ quite a lot. So, the cute handle in the CityUp CA-793 set managed to turn around relative to the sting at the first attempt to get inside the tire.
Note that in some sets there are no “pickers” provided, and in some places there is no glue. And the names of the instruments are different for almost all manufacturers - in the explanations we give exactly the “branded” version.
A tire with so many holes in the tread part passed the test of running at speeds of over a hundred for a couple of weeks without losing a drop of precious air. For the sake of the experiment, we did not even cut off a few ponytails - and everyone resisted. A small puncture in the sidewall was also managed with the help of a flagellum. Although the reliability of sealing is noticeably lower than in the case when the tourniquet is held in a thick (even for a used tire) tread layer.
Towards the end, they conducted another test - a kind of "household": they pierced the sidewall of the tire, like some kind of bully with a knife or a screwdriver. We were no longer engaged in comparative tests, but simply fought for survivability. By the way, the same damage occurs, for example, when the tire makes hard contact with a curb or a sharp edge of a pit. Such a temporary repair is a priori more difficult: the sidewall is thinner than the tread, and therefore it is more difficult for the flagellum to stay in the hole.
Equipment: spiral awl, tool for installing harnesses, raw rubber strips (5 pieces),
adhesive activator
The spiral awl destroys the cord - when installed, a crackling of breaking threads is heard. However, the repaired wheel drives successfully.
Equipment: a tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eye, reinforced plaits (5 pieces), glue
The beautiful handle of the rasp turned right away - the set can be removed from the tests. Okay, we took an analogue of a “picker” from another set ... As a result, the wheel was repaired, but it’s hard to advise buying such a first-aid kit.
Equipment: Twisted tip tool, eye tool, raw rubber activator adhesive, raw rubber strips (8 pieces), cutter
The spiral awl is good, the handles are comfortable. Note the presence of a cutter in the kit - it is not in other kits. I liked the first aid kit, but it's pricey.
Equipment: tool with a twisted tip, a tool with an eye, an activator adhesive for raw rubber, raw rubber flagella (3 pieces)
I didn’t like the picker: the cord breaks. But the wheel was still fixed.
Equipment: twisted tip tool, eye tool, wet rubber activator adhesive, plaits (5 pcs)
A tool with a hole like the eye of a needle has a too wide groove. Nevertheless, the set has stood the test.
Equipment: a tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eyelet for installing a tourniquet, reinforced cords (5 pieces), glue
The inexpensive kit coped with the task successfully, demonstrating the best value for money.
Equipment: rasp for cleaning and forming a hole, awl with an eye, reinforced braids (5 pieces), glue
The handle is poorly made.
The glue feels very watery. However, it works.
Equipment: lug tool, wet rubber activator adhesive, conical black plugs (6 pieces)
Stepped "wedges" broke almost immediately. Failed.
Equipment: eye tool, raw rubber strips (10 pieces), activator glue
The set failed rather quickly: weak, unreinforced strips of raw rubber tore at the first attempt to shove them with the included tool into the workplace. Failed!
Equipment: pressure gauge, rasp, eye tool, repair harnesses (10 pieces), glue, 4 caps, 4 spools, universal wrench for cleaning valve threads, 10 chamber patches
The most expensive, but also the most complete set in our selection. The kit coped with the puncture. However, the tool is inconvenient. And most of the content will not be needed by everyone.
Equipment: rasp, needle tool, repair strips (3 pieces), glue
Glue is liquid, like water. But the wheel was repaired pretty quickly.
Equipment: tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eye for harnesses, harnesses for repairs (5 pieces)
There is no glue included. However, the set fulfilled its immediate function.
Equipment: eye tool, long black "self-vulcanizing" cords (4 pieces)
Glue is not included in the kit. The straps appear to be very thin. There is no tool for preparing the hole in the kit - you have to act immediately with a “needle”. However, we completed the sealing of the hole.
Equipment: lug tool, wet rubber activator adhesive, conical red plugs (6 pieces)
Red step-shaped "gags" are torn even before they are installed in the tire.
Failed.
Equipment: spiral file, awl with eye, plaits (3 pieces), glue
Inexpensive set successfully coped with the task.
Equipment: file tip tool, eye tool, raw rubber bands (5 pieces), activator glue
The sting of the “picking” tool is too thin. But the wheel was repaired.
Of the listed kits, we highlight the Titan T-609 for 130 rubles - at an affordable price, it is equipped with a set of tools that did not cause us any complaints.
Separately, we note DoneDeal DD0320 for 540 rubles - the only set in which a cutter is provided to cut off the ends of the bundles sticking out of the tire. If not for the price, he would be a champion.
The most general recommendations are as follows: the flagella should be thick and reinforced, the “picker” should not be too “toothy”, but the glue is still necessary.
We determine the place of the puncture. If an external examination does not help, immerse the wheel in water or, at worst, douse it with water to detect air bubbles. Sometimes for this you need to increase the pressure to 2-3 bar. Having found a puncture, we mark it. Pliers extract the culprit.
We take the tool [1] for stripping and holes (colloquially - “picking tool”), set it to the puncture site and release the handle - we are trying to determine the direction of the puncture by the angle of inclination.
We apply a layer of glue to the surface of the “picker” (if it is present in the repair kit) and first screw it all the way into the tire, and then pull it out. The operation must be repeated two or three times. With the last pass, leave the tool in a recessed position.
We take a tourniquet and install it in the eye of an awl (it is also called a “needle”). We apply glue to the surface of the bundle.
We take out the tool for stripping and shaping and quickly drive an awl with a tourniquet into the hole [2]. The ends of the bundle must remain on the surface.
We take out the awl - the tourniquet should remain in the hole.
Same tire, inside view [3]. Captured with a hidden camera...
We inflate the wheel and check the tightness with water or at least by ear.
We cut the ends of the bundle sticking out from the outside flush with the surface of the tire tread [4].
- Use only "classic" flagella reinforced with synthetic threads. Outwardly, they resemble a twisted rope impregnated with a rubber-like composition. Do not use any conical plugs or strips without reinforcement, otherwise you will cry.
- It is advisable to choose a "picker" with a T-shaped handle. Otherwise, calluses are guaranteed.
- We do not recommend using sharp, rasp cleaners for repairs. They almost always break the cord.
- Before starting repairs, the wheel must be pumped up to at least 0.5–1.0 bar.
- If you are in doubt about the quality of your repair, move the repaired wheel back.
- If a puncture is discovered while driving, and immediate repair is not possible, do not rush to remove a nail or self-tapping screw sticking out of the tire. As long as it is in place, the tire will not deflate as quickly. It is better to pump up a punctured wheel from time to time before starting a full repair.
- Remember that with the presence of glue in the kit, the installation of the flagellum becomes easier, and the chances of a long service life are higher.
- If the set has been lying in the trunk for a long time and the glue has dried, you can use gasoline (but not diesel fuel) instead.
We wish everyone that our advice will never come in handy! Bon Voyage!
Despite the obvious progress in the automotive industry, the trivial problems associated with the car, unfortunately, do not disappear anywhere. So, for example, even the newest and fancy “gelding” can become a victim of the simplest nail, which is already “a hundred years old”.
Therefore, skills such as do-it-yourself wheel replacement, as well as tubeless repair, will always come in handy even for those who have a cool foreign car. Of course, there will be those among you who will say that the one who has a cool “gelding” can not do this and call a gun carriage or service employees. Well, theoretically yes, but there are places in Russia where there is no service station, and calling employees to the place is simply impossible due to the lack of cellular network coverage. And in general, it is unlikely that “mersovods” read our site, but for the owner of the “classics” or some kind of “dozens”, such knowledge will come in handy. In principle, it is easier, and it would seem, rather, to change the wheel, and upon arrival, give the wheel for repair to some craftsman who, for a nominal fee, will repair the puncture and return the wheel “to life”. But as I said, situations are different, just like people, it’s difficult for one even to change a wheel, while the other has never been to a service station in his life and always repairs everything himself. Well, enough talk, let's, as they say, from words to deeds.
There are several ways to repair tubeless wheels. The most popular among them are: tire repair with harness, repair of a puncture with a patch-crib, as well as with the help of special sprays that “tighten” the puncture site, eliminating air leakage. To repair a tubeless tire, you need to have some tools and fixtures, though everything depends to a large extent on which repair method you choose, as well as the degree of damage to the wheel itself.
To fulfill tire repair using a special repair harness, you need a special kit to perform this kind of repair. The kit includes: two awls (for preparing and installing the harness), glue, a set of harnesses. In principle, this set may differ depending on the manufacturer of this set.
- The first thing to do is to remove the wheel and find the puncture site. If the puncture site is visible and there is access to it, then the wheel can not be removed. If the puncture cannot be found, you can use the old “grandfather” method: lower the input wheel and look where the air bubbles come from. Or, in extreme cases, take a bottle of water and water the tire, watching for bubbles to appear.
- Further, for convenience, the place is marked with a marker or chalk, and cleaned of dirt. If there is a foreign object at the puncture site, it should be removed.
- After that, the hole is cleaned with a special awl, that is, preparation for installing the tourniquet.
- When the place is cleaned and prepared, a repair tourniquet is installed in the awl with an eyelet, smeared with glue, and carefully inserted into the puncture site.
- The awl is removed after you make sure that the tourniquet has gone through and the puncture site is sealed.
- If the hole is large and the installed harness did not completely seal the hole, steps “4” and “5” should be repeated.
- After the procedure is completed, the ponytails sticking out of the hole are carefully trimmed.
- We pump the wheel, check the pressure in the tires and continue driving.
This method, with the right approach and proper implementation, allows you to securely seal the tubeless, which will last a long time.
For those who do not like to read or do not perceive information in printed form, I suggest watching a video on how to seal a tubeless wheel on the road using an awl and a tourniquet.
This method involves removing the wheel and the tire itself from the disk. For work, you must have: patches in the form of fungi, which are sold in all car dealerships, sandpaper (or other tool for roughening the surface), glue.
- The first step is to clean the puncture site, wash and remove all unnecessary from the tire.
- Next, you need to clean the puncture site from the inside, using sandpaper, or alternatively, you can use a drill with a nozzle.
- After that, we select the fungus of the desired diameter and size, depending on how large your puncture is.
- We lubricate the fungus with glue, after which we install it in the puncture site and press it tightly. Depending on the size of the puncture and the quality of the glue, let the patch dry, after which you can proceed with the assembly.
Tire sealant, which is popularly called the “spare in a can”, as a rule, comes in a repair kit in “premium class” cars, where do-it-yourself car repair, in principle, is not provided. However, over time, such cans appeared on the free market, and now any lazy person can quickly and inexpensively seal the wheel automotive sealant for tubeless tires.
- The first step is to unscrew the nipple, although it all depends on the type of sealant and how it is applied, some manufacturers claim that it is not necessary to unscrew the nipple.
- Next, the contents of the vial are squeezed into the nipple opening, according to the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer. After that, the nipple is screwed into place.
- The wheel is inflated to the required pressure and after 10 minutes after the completion of the procedure, you can continue to move.
Despite the apparent simplicity and “frivolity” of such repair of tubeless tires, the sealant is quite popular among motorists, who confirm the uniqueness and high efficiency of this method of repairing wheels.
Video (click to play). |