Do-it-yourself gazelle side body repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gazelle side body repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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Gordej 17 Jun 2014

The other day, I decided to repair the sides. I got bored with putty, glue and so on. Preliminarily I stopped at the option of a square pipe 40X80mm. Length 3m12cm on each side. I bought two cheaper by 3 meters so I had to build up both a little. In short, we take the pipe, we glue one end with tape well and conveniently putting on the table we pour inside the liquid diluted primer for metal. Closing the end with a plastic bag with a rag, carefully begin to “drive” the liquid back and forth by turning the edges of the pipe. Drain it back into the jar, remove the tape from the end (required) and put it on the lining on the hot sunny wall so that the air draft in the inside of the pipe occurs. We do the same with the second pipe. Now you can do the sides.

We put the board on the supports at knee level and cut it with a grinder along the edge of the shelf of the rotted tunnel, getting as close as possible to the uprights. = w271-h203-p-no

Then we cut the edges at the posts and end pieces

We take out all the rot. A little here and there it is necessary to cut the contact welding with a sharp chisel. you get such a picture.

We clean everything thoroughly.

We weld the ends of dried pipes thoroughly (from penetrating moisture).

We insert the pipe into place and tighten one end with the bead

We tighten the other end and press the pipe through the stand. Fix everything with tacks. Each stand is pulled separately to the pipe.

We carefully weld everything on the racks and grab the fabric of the bead itself to the pipe with dots. I didn’t do it very well due to a lack of welding experience, but I tried to grab everything from the inside.

Video (click to play).

We clean all the seams and putty (if desired).

We put the board in place without any problems. The only thing is that the constipations began to close tightly, but over time I think everything will settle down and become loose.

We paint the primer-enamel with paint and for the next 15 years we will not bother with this topic. Yes, do not forget to degrease everything well before painting!

It took one day and 1000 rubles of expenses.

Post has been edited by Gordej: 17 June 2014 - 00:07

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zenya 17 Jun 2014

well done, I have also done the same in front of the going owner yet again, for the fourth year as a car in my hands and the sides are like new, I paint every year

And I have almost seven years and no rot is planned,

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Gordej 17 Jun 2014

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Gordej 17 Jun 2014

I will add more detailed photos. I did the topic for the first time and did not understand that it was necessary to expand the photos.

did not look further. these sides are of high quality, on the old woman 96g from the inside one "rusted", on its solid corrosion from the inside. I measured it on the "pad" -3.17, height 44, I want to rivet luminium, such as a notch, they drive gazelles in Perm. question: lope of money and what the topic looks like, mona in a personal)

Gazelle repair has many features, and you should know about them in advance before starting any work. The first thing to understand is that common breakdowns are described in the user manual, therefore, after reading this booklet, you can not only identify, but also successfully eliminate most of the faults.

In some cases, it is better not to make self-repair due to the fact that the use of special equipment is required.

Do-it-yourself Gazelle repairs are mainly carried out due to malfunctions of the car's chassis. In most cases, such a machine is used to transport goods, and the Gazelle Business can be used as a vehicle for passengers. Due to the fact that many motorists often overload the car, the suspension elements wear out and break down much faster.

Repair of chassis on a Gazelle truck

spring bolts;
springs;
leaf springs and springs;
other bridge mountings.

Due to the breakdown of one of the listed parts, the performance of the car can significantly decrease: speed, smoothness, handling. If the Gazelle is used for transportation, it is recommended to carry out regular maintenance, check the chassis, and also carry out design upgrades to increase the operational capabilities of the machine.

Since the repair of most types of faults is described in the instructions, just remember which parts you need to check. To avoid frequent problems, it is recommended:

Less overloading the car. The instructions indicate the recommended weight that the Gazelle design can withstand. Of course, it can be exceeded, but in the future this will affect in the form of breakdowns, and these are unnecessary costs that can be avoided.
Carry out a technical inspection regularly, as it will prevent various troubles on the road.
Drive on the highest quality road surface.

Back to the table of contents

Most users of Gazelle and Gazelle Business car models claim that the axle and suspension of the car have a very strong structure and practically do not break even in the most severe conditions. In fact, this is not the case. The design is really very strong, despite many shortcomings, but it can withstand overload only by a miracle, which will be seen later, when the car "sags" under its own weight. Here are the consequences of overloading:

nuts and bolts on the bridge burst;
the spring and springs are deformed;
fastenings on compression springs are untwisted;
shock absorbers break.

All these breakdowns are easy to fix yourself using a minimal set of tools.

Gazelle truck with air suspension

If you use your Gazelle Business for cargo transportation, strengthen its springs with several additional sheets. In addition, replacing oil shock absorbers with more modern gas ones will come in handy.

Chassis Gazelle Next

Serving the Gazelle with your own hands is quite simple, here is a list of actions that are recommended to be performed regularly:

Every 10-15 thousand km it is necessary to carry out a full check of the car. If the transport is used in harsh conditions, it is recommended to check more often - once every 6-7 thousand km.
It is worth checking the quantity indicators daily: oil, fuel, coolant, technical fluids in the brake system and clutch drive.
Check the performance of the braking system before driving on the road, as well as the tire pressure.
The driver of the car does not have to perform this service on his own, you can visit the service station, where they will carry out a full diagnosis of the car for problems, pump up the wheels and carry out repairs, but you will have to pay for the services. The price for such a service will be about several thousand rubles, and in case of repair of the node - up to 10 thousand rubles. and even more.
You can independently change oil, fuel and other technical fluids, partially disassemble the unit, change some parts.

Inexperienced users are not recommended to completely disassemble the chassis and engine assemblies. The installation of additional electronic devices - a stove, a radio tape recorder, a GPS, an on-board computer, etc. - leads to a load on the system. Make sure that the electronic resource of the car will be sufficient to maintain the performance of the battery and installed gadgets. Otherwise, the battery will often be discharged, as a result, the car will stop.

The old-school Gazelle engine rarely breaks down, but neatly.

Replacing the engine on a Gazelle car

But there are some engine problems that you can fix yourself. A good example is the service Gazelle 405. It often happens that the car simply stalls. Experts say the problem is the sheer amount of electronics in the system.

In most cases, the cause is an open ground contact. Check it out, and if it really is, then here is one method to solve the problem:

Cut the conductor a few centimeters below the oxidized contact.
Strip the wire.
Screw on the new contact, isolate it using any convenient method.
Screw the contact onto the stud. File the contact area with a file.

More complex manipulations with wiring, if you do not have the necessary knowledge and skills, are not recommended to be performed.

The simplest do-it-yourself Gazelle repair consists in various little things - to clean the filter, replace the liquid. Oddly enough, this also helps with fairly serious problems, for example, when the engine does not start.

Clogging of various systems can lead to overheating of the engine, improper formation of the air-fuel mixture, and deterioration of fuel quality. When driving on dusty roads, frequent checking of the air filter is recommended.

Here is a small list of the simplest steps to take to solve various engine problems:

The engine will not start in cold weather. Most likely, this is due to hypothermia of the system. Warming up the knot helps to cope with this inconvenience.
When the engine is turned on, pops are heard from the carburetor or exhaust system - check the filters in the fuel line and air duct, replace or clean them, check the details of the above units.
It is not recommended to disassemble the node without a special stand, as you are more likely to waste more time and get several additional problems than get rid of one problem.

Channel link:

Be sure to write in the comments what you think about this rework.

In this video, I wanted to show you one of hundreds of other ideas and options that are on the Internet, about how you can make sides for a gazelle with your own hands.
The task was as follows: to make the sides with minimal costs and maximum practicality. The task was completed!

See other videos on repairs and all sorts of alterations on the channel. Link above ↑

Adam Grozny you have an interesting humor. send squares)

It seems to me that OSB is not practical, snow, rain, and so on in a couple of years need to be changed.

I have an awning stretched on top to the bottom of the sides. there is no effect at all on osb (I'm talking about the weather).
the only thing that can break it is some kind of incorrectly placed load

On KAMAZ, cops e @ ut. Retrofitting

I also made the boards myself, 20 * 40 * 1.5 main, there were no oblique crossbars only 4pcs, each of them was reinforced with sheet strips 3mm, 10cm wide and inserted boards from pallets into these gaps, each board on two galvanized m6 bolts (so that if that it is no problem to change the plank), in addition to the planks, in addition to the planks, the 3mm sheet metal from the outdoor is still heavy (it turned out to be heavy, but strong, because I mainly drive 6 meter metal on the horns, which presses on it decently, the factory board gave in, put in the hooks and hung the chains ), I also drive firewood, nothing bends, although the factory ones were decently rounded

Wow! YOU are certainly confused. how much does one board weigh? the design is probably very, very heavy. but on the other hand, the main thing is that they perform their function. if you have mainly such heavy loads. and the firewood generally bends the sides strongly.

On the contrary, loading from all sides, this option is not suitable, you have to rattle all over the street. ))) If only the loops were sold, to add.

I saw a cool system of boards in the man. also loading from all sides and high. shorter than full minced meat for transportation. maybe I'll do it somehow and draw this project and post it.maybe someone will be interested. though he had a lot of trouble to make such beauty

It turned out well and reliably.
I would not sheathed the sides with plywood and aluminum sheets. (Expensive, of course, but forever.)

Aster. 46 lumin can also be opened with varnish))))

Alexandr Bazuev Lumin will rot faster than steel. How to paint the luminous. Wheels on cars are all varnished.

from the inside, not plywood, but osb. until he pulled the awning - 100 times fell under the rain and nothing, did not swell.
and from the outside he did not sheathe anything. I lowered the awning to the very bottom of the side and that's it (sewed on order)

There is nothing terrible in the repair of frames, so that those who have heard something somewhere do not tell. This article is for those who will repair the frame themselves. Having experience in working with the frames of semi-trailers of long-range trucks, I encountered a crack on the frame of the Gazelle - it turned out to be a work that can be done in ordinary garage conditions. In the Gazelle, there is less space to get to the problem area of the frame with a grinder or welding, but there is also less work.

The first thing I had to face was a cracked frame under the support of the front shock absorber. from the top shelf and almost reached the bottom. Although not convenient, there is not enough space, I chamfered along the crack on both sides and at the end I drilled a hole to stop its growth, then I welded it with a semiautomatic device on both sides. I cleaned the seam from the inside. Along the seam - on the wall of the frame, I drilled three holes (10 mm in diameter): top, middle and bottom, and also three to five centimeters parallel to them, three to five centimeters on both sides. I cut out the plate for the bookmark into the inner part of the five metal so that it overlaps all the holes and, pressing it with a clamp, welded all the holes to the plate (electric riveting). And also welded the upper and lower edges of the plate to the frame (longitudinal seams). The driver experienced the first 10-20 thousand, (already more than 200), now he tells others how to do it.

Cars of the Gazelle family have a frame structure. The frame consists of two longitudinal side members with transverse load-bearing members. On the long version, the frame has an insert that is fixed with bolts or rivets. The cab is mounted through hard rubber cushions. The onboard platform is installed on special elements. The engine is mounted through rubber cushions on the front cross-member with two front points. The third engine fixing point is the gearbox, which is also fixed to the frame. Front and rear springs, a gas tank are attached to the frame, brake pipes and electrical wiring to the rear lighting devices pass inside the frame.

The frame design of a modern Gazelle is quite reliable, subject to successful assembly and careful operation. There are many negative reviews on the quality of gazelle frames (in real life and on the Internet). You can find the opinion that on the Gazelles of the 1990s, the frame was weakened, that the elongated versions of the frames are less reliable, etc. There are many photos of Gazelles broken in half on the Internet. This all raises questions and concerns.

It must be said here that there can be no absolutely reliable (eternal) construction. Any frame can be broken or "wrapped", i.e. deform. Everything has a tensile strength, which it is advisable not to exceed. Also, the Gazelle frame has load standards. Do not forget that the carrying capacity of the Gazelle is only 1.5 tons, and not 2, 3 or 4. Many owners "forget", and then they are surprised - only 3 tons of potatoes were loaded, and the frame for some reason broke. Of course, it's a bad frame, not a nerd driver. The carrying capacity of the extended onboard Gazelles is less than 1.5 tons, the lifting capacity of the Farmers is even less due to the heavier two-row cab. The frame handles the load it is designed to handle well, but no more. If someone thinks to increase the carrying capacity by adjusting the rear springs (freight carriers and market workers sin with this), then he does it at his own peril and risk.Also, towing should be carried out only when absolutely necessary and only in tension, without jerking. On my Farmer, I pulled out the rear bulkhead, trying to "help" a stuck manipulator with a total weight of more than 5 tons. Then he welded 120 channel into it.

There are no complaints about the reliability of the frame itself, the geometry and loads are well calculated. But the build quality traditionally floats within wide limits. At the plant, it may be elementary not to put some kind of bolt or rivet, not to mention that all other parts of the car (cab, body, engine, gearbox, gas tank) may be poorly fastened, that is, not fully tightened. On a new car, a full broach of everything that is available is required.

The cracks in the frame must be welded. Usually, a diamond-shaped patch is made from a sheet of 3-4 mm and scalded with a semiautomatic device. When registering a car with a welded frame, the traffic police may require an act of completed work from a car service.

Some frame elements cannot be repaired, but must be replaced. For example, if there is a crack on the traverse on which the engine is attached with two points. In the photo there is a crack in the area of the bolts attached to the frame side member.

There is usually no need to reinforce the frame structure. The exception is the cases of installation of heavy vans - manufactured goods, furniture, isothermo, refrigerators and others. But in these cases, an additional channel is included in the van, and the companies that install the van are engaged in its installation.

Straightening the frame of the elongated "Gazelle" with the help of a reinforced body. The frame over the rear axle bent from overload. The photo shows that the factory body is welded from 2 body halves. Even the tailgate attachments are visible in the middle. The frame is cut and docked. Due to the point-fixing of the old body and the large rear overhang, the load was not evenly distributed, and the frame was bent.

We make a one-piece reinforced body on a subframe in full length. We fasten the body with stepladders across the board. This subframe also reinforces the vehicle's frame. The car's frame has straightened. It turns out that the body is stronger than the frame !?) Method number 1.

works with overloads, and this is practically everything, there is such

The body with the load sways and breaks off pieces of the frame along with the bolt.

If the fastening bolts are loose, then the fastening socket in the frame breaks and

the frame is cracking. Or, with a strong impact from behind, the legs bend and