homeThe bestDo-it-yourself gazelle side body repair
Do-it-yourself gazelle side body repair
In detail: do-it-yourself gazelle side body repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Gordej 17 Jun 2014
The other day, I decided to repair the sides. I got bored with putty, glue and so on. Preliminarily I stopped at the option of a square pipe 40X80mm. Length 3m12cm on each side. I bought two cheaper by 3 meters so I had to build up both a little. In short, we take the pipe, we glue one end with tape well and conveniently putting on the table we pour inside the liquid diluted primer for metal. Closing the end with a plastic bag with a rag, carefully begin to “drive” the liquid back and forth by turning the edges of the pipe. Drain it back into the jar, remove the tape from the end (required) and put it on the lining on the hot sunny wall so that the draft of air in the inside of the pipe occurs. We do the same with the second pipe. Now you can do the sides.
We put the board on the supports at knee level and cut it with a grinder along the edge of the shelf of the rotted tunnel, getting as close as possible to the uprights. = w271-h203-p-no
Then we cut the edges at the posts and end pieces
We take out all the rot. A little here and there you will have to cut the contact welding with a sharp chisel. you get such a picture.
We clean everything thoroughly.
We carefully weld the ends of the dried pipes (from penetrating moisture).
We insert the pipe into place and tighten one end with the bead
We tighten the other end and press the pipe through the rack. We fix everything with tacks. Each rack is pulled separately to the pipe.
We carefully weld everything on the racks and grab the fabric of the bead itself to the pipe with dots. I did not succeed in doing this very well due to a lack of welding experience, but I tried to grab everything from the inside.
Video (click to play).
We clean all the seams and putty (if desired).
We put the board in place without any problems. The only thing is that the constipation began to close tightly, but over time I think everything will settle down and loosen up.
We paint the primer-enamel with paint and for the next 15 years we will not bother with this topic. Yes, do not forget to degrease everything well before painting!
It took one day and 1000 rubles of expenses.
Post has been edited by Gordej: 17 June 2014 - 00:07
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zenya 17 Jun 2014
well done, I have done the same in front of the going owner yet again, for the fourth year as a car in my hands and the sides are like new, I paint every year
And I have almost seven years and no rot is planned,
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Gordej 17 Jun 2014
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Gordej 17 Jun 2014
I will add more detailed photos. I did the topic for the first time and did not understand that it was necessary to expand the photos.
I will add more detailed photos. I did the topic for the first time and did not understand that it was necessary to expand the photos.
did not look further. these sides are of high quality, on the old woman 96g from the inside one "rusted", on its solid corrosion from the inside. I measured it on the "pad" -3.17, height 44, I want to rivet luminium, such as a notch, they drive gazelles in Perm. question: lope of money and what the topic looks like, mona in a personal)
Gazelle repair has many features, and you should know about them in advance before starting any work. The first thing to understand is that common breakdowns are described in the user manual, therefore, after reading this booklet, you can not only identify, but also successfully eliminate most of the faults.
In some cases, it is better not to make self-repair due to the fact that the use of special equipment is required.
Do-it-yourself Gazelle repairs are mainly carried out due to malfunctions of the car's chassis. In most cases, such a machine is used to transport goods, and the Gazelle Business can be used as a vehicle for passengers. Due to the fact that many motorists often overload the car, the suspension elements wear out and break much faster.
Repair of chassis on a Gazelle truck
spring bolts;
springs;
leaf springs and springs;
other bridge mountings.
Due to the breakdown of one of the listed parts, the performance of the car can significantly decrease: speed, smoothness, handling. If the Gazelle is used for transportation, it is recommended to carry out regular maintenance, check the chassis, and also carry out design upgrades to increase the operational capabilities of the machine.
Since the repair of most types of faults is described in the instructions, just remember which parts you need to check. To avoid frequent problems, it is recommended:
Less overloading the car. The instructions indicate the recommended weight that the Gazelle design can withstand. Of course, it can be exceeded, but in the future this will affect in the form of breakdowns, and these are unnecessary costs that can be avoided.
Carry out a technical inspection regularly, as it will prevent various troubles on the road.
Drive on the highest quality road surface.
Back to the table of contents
Most users of Gazelle and Gazelle Business car models claim that the axle and suspension of the car have a very strong structure and practically do not break even in the most severe conditions. In fact, this is not the case. The design is really very strong, despite many shortcomings, but it can withstand overload only by a miracle, which will be seen later, when the car "sags" under its own weight. Here are the consequences of overloading:
nuts and bolts on the bridge burst;
the spring and springs are deformed;
fastenings on compression springs are untwisted;
shock absorbers break.
All these breakdowns are easy to fix yourself using a minimal set of tools.
Gazelle truck with air suspension
If you use your Gazelle Business for cargo transportation, strengthen its springs with several additional sheets. In addition, replacing oil shock absorbers with more modern gas ones will come in handy.
Chassis Gazelle Next
Serving the Gazelle with your own hands is quite simple, here is a list of actions that are recommended to be performed regularly:
Every 10-15 thousand km it is necessary to carry out a full check of the car. If the transport is used in harsh conditions, it is recommended to check more often - once every 6-7 thousand km.
Every day it is worth checking the quantity indicators: oil, fuel, coolant, technical fluids in the brake system and clutch drive.
Check the performance of the braking system before driving on the road, as well as the tire pressure.
The driver of the car does not have to perform this service on his own, you can visit the service station, where they will carry out a full diagnosis of the car for problems, pump up the wheels and carry out repairs, but you will have to pay for the services. The price for such a service will be about several thousand rubles, and in case of repair of the node - up to 10 thousand rubles. and even more.
You can independently change oil, fuel and other technical fluids, partially disassemble the unit, change some parts.
Inexperienced users are not recommended to completely disassemble the chassis and engine assemblies. Installation of additional electronic devices - stove, radio, GPS, board computer, etc. - leads to a load on the system. Make sure that the electronic resource of the car will be sufficient to maintain the performance of the battery and installed gadgets. Otherwise, the battery will often be discharged, as a result, the car will stop.
The old-school Gazelle engine rarely breaks down, but neatly.
Replacing the engine on a Gazelle car
But there are some engine problems that you can fix yourself. A good example is the service Gazelle 405. It often happens that the car simply stalls. Experts say the problem is the sheer amount of electronics in the system.
In most cases, the cause is an open ground contact. Check it out, and if it really is, then here is one method to solve the problem:
Cut the conductor a few centimeters below the oxidized contact.
Strip the wire.
Screw on the new contact, isolate it using any convenient method.
Screw the contact onto the stud. File the contact area with a file.
More complex manipulations with wiring, if you do not have the necessary knowledge and skills, are not recommended to be performed.
The simplest do-it-yourself Gazelle repair consists in various little things - to clean the filter, replace the liquid. Oddly enough, this also helps with fairly serious problems, for example, when the engine does not start.
Clogging of various systems can lead to overheating of the engine, improper formation of the air-fuel mixture, and deterioration of fuel quality. When driving on dusty roads, frequent checking of the air filter is recommended.
Here is a small list of the simplest steps to take to solve various engine problems:
The engine will not start in cold weather. Most likely, this is due to hypothermia of the system. Warming up the knot helps to cope with this inconvenience.
When the engine is turned on, pops are heard from the carburetor or exhaust system - check the filters in the fuel line and air duct, replace or clean them, check the details of the above units.
It is not recommended to disassemble the node without a special stand, as you are more likely to waste more time and get several additional problems than get rid of one problem.
Channel link:
Be sure to write in the comments what you think about this rework.
In this video, I wanted to show you one of hundreds of other ideas and options that are on the Internet, about how you can make the sides for a gazelle with your own hands. The task was as follows: to make the sides with minimal costs and maximum practicality. The task was completed!
Watch other videos on repairs and all sorts of alterations on the channel. Link above ↑
Adam Grozny you have an interesting humor. send squares)
It seems to me that OSB is not practical, snow, rain and so on in a couple of years need to be changed.
I have an awning stretched on top to the bottom of the sides. there is no effect at all on OSB (I'm talking about the weather). the only thing that can break it is some kind of incorrectly placed load
On KAMAZ, cops e @ ut. Retrofitting
I also made the boards myself, 20 * 40 * 1.5 main, there were no oblique crossbars only 4pcs, each of them was reinforced with sheet strips 3mm, 10cm wide and inserted boards from pallets into these gaps, each board on two galvanized m6 bolts (so that if that it is no problem to change the plank), in addition to the planks, in addition to the planks, the 3mm sheet metal from the outdoor is still heavy (it turned out to be heavy, but strong, because I mainly drive 6-meter metal on the horns, which presses on it decently, the factory board gave in, put in the hooks and hung the chains ), I also drive firewood, nothing bends, although the factory ones were decently rounded
Wow! YOU are certainly confused. how much does one board weigh? the design is probably very, very heavy. but on the other hand, the main thing is that they perform their function. if you have mainly such heavy loads. and the firewood generally bends the sides strongly.
On the contrary, loading from all sides, this option is not suitable, you have to rattle all over the street. ))) If only the hinges were on sale, to add.
I saw a cool system of boards in the man. also loading from all sides and high. shorter than full minced meat for transportation. maybe I'll do it somehow and draw this project and post it.maybe someone will be interested. though he had a lot of trouble to make such beauty
It turned out well and reliably. I would not sheathed the sides with plywood and aluminum sheets. (Expensive, of course, but forever.)
Aster. 46 lumin can also be opened with varnish))))
Alexandr Bazuev Lumin will rot faster than steel. How to paint the luminous. Wheels on cars are all varnished.
from the inside, not plywood, but osb. until he pulled the awning - 100 times fell under the rain and nothing, did not swell. and from the outside he did not sheathe anything. I lowered the awning to the very bottom of the side and that's it (sewed on order)
There is nothing terrible in the repair of frames, so that those who have heard something somewhere do not tell. This article is for those who will repair the frame themselves. Having experience in working with the frames of semi-trailers of long-range trucks, I encountered a crack on the frame of the Gazelle - it turned out to be a work that can be done in ordinary garage conditions. In the Gazelle, there is less space to get to the problem area of the frame with a grinder or welding, but there is also less work.
The first thing I had to face was a cracked frame under the support of the front shock absorber. from the top shelf and almost reached the bottom. Although not convenient, there is not enough space, I chamfered along the crack on both sides and at the end I drilled a hole to stop its growth, then I welded it with a semiautomatic device on both sides. I cleaned the seam from the inside. Along the seam - on the wall of the frame, I drilled three holes (10 mm in diameter): top, middle and bottom, and also three to five centimeters parallel to them, three to five centimeters on both sides. I cut out the plate for the bookmark into the inner part of the five metal so that it overlaps all the holes and, pressing it with a clamp, welded all the holes to the plate (electric riveting). And also welded the upper and lower edges of the plate to the frame (longitudinal seams). The driver experienced the first 10-20 thousand, (already more than 200), now he tells others how to do it.
Cars of the Gazelle family have a frame structure. The frame consists of two longitudinal side members with transverse load-bearing members. On the long version, the frame has an insert that is fixed with bolts or rivets. The cab is mounted through hard rubber cushions. The onboard platform is installed on special elements. The engine is mounted through rubber cushions on the front cross-member with two front points. The third engine fixing point is the gearbox, which is also fixed to the frame. Front and rear springs, a gas tank are attached to the frame, brake pipes and electrical wiring to the rear lighting devices pass inside the frame.
The frame design of a modern Gazelle is quite reliable, subject to successful assembly and careful operation. There are many negative reviews on the quality of gazelle frames (in real life and on the Internet). You can find the opinion that on the Gazelles of the 1990s, the frame was weakened, that the elongated versions of the frames are less reliable, etc. There are many photos of Gazelles broken in half on the Internet. This all raises questions and concerns.
It must be said here that there can be no absolutely reliable (eternal) construction. Any frame can be broken or "wrapped", i.e. deform. Everything has a tensile strength, which it is advisable not to exceed. Also, the Gazelle frame has load standards. Do not forget that the carrying capacity of the Gazelle is only 1.5 tons, and not 2, 3 or 4. Many owners "forget", and then they are surprised - only 3 tons of potatoes were loaded, and the frame for some reason broke. Of course, it's a bad frame, not a nerd driver. The carrying capacity of the extended onboard Gazelles is less than 1.5 tons, the lifting capacity of the Farmers is even less due to the heavier two-row cab. The frame handles the load it is designed to handle well, but no more. If someone thinks to increase the carrying capacity by adjusting the rear springs (freight carriers and market workers sin with this), then he does it at his own peril and risk.Also, towing should be carried out only when absolutely necessary and only in tension, without jerking. On my Farmer, I pulled out the rear bulkhead, trying to "help" a stuck manipulator with a total weight of more than 5 tons. Then he welded 120 channel into it.
There are no complaints about the reliability of the frame itself, the geometry and loads are well calculated. But the build quality traditionally floats within wide limits. At the plant, it may be elementary not to put some kind of bolt or rivet, not to mention that all other parts of the car (cab, body, engine, gearbox, gas tank) may be poorly fixed, that is, not fully tightened. On a new car, a full broach of everything that is available is required.
The cracks in the frame must be welded. Usually, a diamond-shaped patch is made from a sheet of 3-4 mm and scalded with a semiautomatic device. When registering a car with a welded frame, the traffic police may require an act of completed work from a car service.
Some frame elements cannot be repaired, but must be replaced. For example, if there is a crack on the traverse on which the engine is attached with two points. In the photo there is a crack in the area of the bolts attached to the frame side member.
There is usually no need to reinforce the frame structure. The exception is the cases of installation of heavy vans - manufactured goods, furniture, isothermo, refrigerators and others. But in these cases, an additional channel is included in the van, and the companies that install the van are engaged in its installation.
Straightening the frame of the elongated "Gazelle" with the help of a reinforced body. The frame over the rear axle bent from overload. The photo shows that the factory body is welded from 2 body halves. Even the tailgate attachments are visible in the middle. The frame is cut and docked. Due to the point-fixing of the old body and the large rear overhang, the load was not evenly distributed, and the frame was bent.
We make a one-piece reinforced body on a subframe in full length. We fasten the body with stepladders across the board. This subframe also reinforces the vehicle's frame. The car's frame has straightened. It turns out that the body is stronger than the frame !?) Method number 1.
works with overloads, and this is practically everything, there is such
The body with the load sways and breaks off pieces of the frame along with the bolt.
If the fastening bolts are loose, then the fastening socket in the frame breaks and
the frame is cracking. Or, with a strong impact from behind, the legs bend and
Video uploaded by Donbass Rulit Search Donbass Rulit 2 years ago
Simple and quick repair of the sides of the Gazelle truck.
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I bought a profile pipe 40x20x2, cut off all unnecessary (rotten) and welded the pipe, cooked the fasteners locally, i.e. first hung the board, then put the mount in place and welded. In the future, I will process the boards, paint them and attach the material (which one I don’t know better yet) for rolling advertising. Put your likes, comment, will serve as an impetus for creating new videos!
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Most modern drivers involved in cargo transportation opt for the Gazelle. Indeed, this car can, if anything, be successfully repaired with your own hands, without resorting to expensive services at a service station. We will learn in detail from the article on how the body repair of this domestic car is carried out.
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How many times have the world been told that “disease” is easier to prevent than to cure. So it is with the body. It is necessary to periodically monitor and take care of him, carrying out maintenance competently and at a high level.
More specifically, on the body of the Gazelle and other models of the GAZ automobile concern, maintenance will look like this:
Inspection and maintenance will need to be carried out daily;
Every 10 thousand kilometers traveled, carry out a general, major technical inspection (if the operation of the car takes place in extreme conditions, then the inspection period can be reduced to 6 thousand).
With regard to specific procedures:
Check first of all those body parts that are near the roadway. This includes sills, wheel arches, floor, and so on;
Check the entire body for rusty spots, scratches, etc.
Refers to popular repair operations related to the general modernization of Gazelles, Gaz 69, 3110, 3102, Gaz 24 and other models. In addition, this operation is recommended for carrying out after obvious overload on semi-trucks.
As you know, the factory Gazelle body is welded from two halves. The frame itself is cut and docked. All this, coupled with the fact that the old body is point-welded, and due to the rather large rear overhang, the load falls unevenly, the frame easily bends from overload.
In order to reinforce the body and thus avoid further problems, it is recommended to make a one-piece long section on the subframe. The frame will be fixed already with the help of stepladders across the board. Thanks to the subframe, the frame will also be strengthened, which can even be straightened in this way.
In some cases, the frame will crack. Undoubtedly, this is akin to a nightmare for a "gazelist", because it will be adjustment with a major bias. The main thing here is not to despair and understand why the frame breaks, and how the part can be repaired.
So, you should know that the body is initially fixed to the top of the frame with bolts. All in all, this decision has been described by many body repair experts as unfortunate. Because of this, the frame easily cracks along the bolt holes, because the loaded body constantly sways during the movement of the machine, thereby exerting enormous loads on the weak zones (in this case, the bolt holes).
After the bolts loosen, the fixation point inevitably breaks, which immediately affects the frame, which cracks.
Here's what you can recommend to car owners in this case:
If the frame is intact, then it is easy to remake the bolt mounts for stirrup and strengthen everything by welding a bent channel;
On a frame with cracks, you will have to tinker. In particular, it will be necessary to remove the body in order to put special inserts inside the frame.
The next type of Gazelle repair is carried out long before the appearance of cracks, so to speak, at a preventive level. As mentioned above, proactive measures are always more enjoyable and cheaper.
In this case, it is recommended to insert a 4 mm thick profile into the frame in the place where the cab joins the body.
Useful video about Gazelle body repair
This repair option is most often carried out on the body of Gas 3110, Gas 69, 24, 3102 and Gazelle, if corroded areas are visible. Below is a detailed sequence of actions:
With the help of a grinder, a rusty place in the body is cut out.If the body is so rotten that a hole has appeared, it should be cut off, adding 1-2 centimeters around the entire perimeter.
Attention. It is desirable to cut the hole evenly, for example, observing a rectangular or square shape. This is done so that the patch can be installed more conveniently, without problems.
Metallic surfaces around the edges of the hole are carefully cleaned. Also, deburring is cleaned from the inside of the hole, which is easy to do with a file;
Then you need to prepare a suitable patch from a piece of steel sheet having a thickness of at least 0.8 mm.
Note. When preparing the patch, do not forget to leave a decent margin of 1-1.5 cm.
The patch is welded to the body.
Advice. To make it easier to cook, it is recommended to weld some piece of metal, a tail, to the patch. This will allow you to conveniently hold the patch while welding.
At first, the patch is not welded in the corners with a continuous seam, but only slightly tacked for accuracy;
Then comes the full weld line, overlapping welding.
Attention. It is necessary to adhere to this order: the welding points on the line of the continuous seam should be at a distance of 10-20 mm from each other, no more. If you can make a continuous seam, keeping even smaller distances, so much the better. Much will depend on the skill of the welder.
Cleaning the seams is a mandatory welding procedure;
After that, a car putty is applied to the place of work;
Then the primer is applied, first the starting, and then the finishing;
The leveled surface is painted in the desired color.
Bodywork experts also recommend sealing the weld. Thanks to this, the delivered patch will last much longer on Gas 3110, 69, 24, 3102 and Gazelle. Sealing is an operation to eliminate possible moisture penetration into the weld seam through the putty.
In addition, it would be nice to carry out anticorrosive treatment of all seams and the patch itself. This is done before priming, applying the filler.
In general, in the process of active operation of Gaz 3110, Gazelle and Gaz 69 vehicles, various damages may occur. As a rule, we are talking about dents, cracks, chips of a metal surface, etc. If body parts are welded in places of damage, it is recommended to weld a local reinforcement on the back side.
In this regard, I would like to give two good advice:
The amplifier should be cut from sheet steel, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the metal of the part being repaired;
The parts should be welded so that the seams are in the direction perpendicular to the crack.
If the paintwork is damaged, then it is better to thoroughly clean this area of the body from dirt with sandpaper, then degrease it with some good means and tint with nitro enamel.
Note. It will be useful for a body specialist to know that nitro enamel is dried in air for at least two hours. But, for example, synthetic enamel, which can also be used, is dried with a reflector.
Before painting with enamel, if areas of the body are significantly damaged, that is, before the metal, a primer should be applied. After that, wait for drying for one hour, and only then proceed to the main work.
As for the elimination of the dust obtained by painting the damaged body part, this is done more efficiently by hand. Polishing has proven to be the best method for removing dust.
If work is being carried out to eliminate floor defects, then it is imperative to use BPM-1 mastic or some other.
You can learn more about body repair from other publications on our website. Watch video and photo materials, study detailed tables and instructions. All this, taken together, will definitely help you in your work.
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We buy the necessary body parts for repair, in this case it is an arch, a tail and a side plate for a gas tank;
Trying on new details;
We cut off the old metal from the body;
We will weld on new linings (arch, tail, gas tank cover);
We prime, plaster and paint the body. The repair is over.
We will show you step by step how to carry out body repair with your own hands, which will not be difficult. Body damage can be of different "severity":
scratch;
dent;
broken or rotten part of the leaf, etc.
To begin with, any, even micro-damage to the body does not paint the car, moreover, they can lead to negative consequences under the influence of the environment (for example, metal corrosion). You can look at the video on the Gazelle body repair with your own hands. Therefore, in order to avoid expensive repair work, you should monitor the condition of your car on a daily basis. We carry out repairs in the following sequence:
we apply a repair insert;
draw a contour along it;
cut off the damaged parts of the body below the outline by 1 centimeter;
then we make edges on the body with an edge bend;
then we try on a repair insert, and around its perimeter we beat holes with a hole punch every 2 centimeters;
we clean the edge on the body;
we apply a repair insert to our already edge, and scald along the holes;
then we clean the welding points;
primed from the inside;
we pass the primed internal joint seam with a special sealant;
putty outside, take out, primer;
paint.
It is important that when performing welding work, do not forget about eye protection, wear a special mask. Even an avid welder can get burned when performing such work. Do not forget to undergo periodic inspection, this will save not only your money, but also time.
Semara's body repair began by accident, because of the falling glass of the rear door. The solution was to reinforce the glass frame. But when they began to disassemble the door, they saw that the lower strip of the doorway had rotted and burst. Then I had to disassemble the interior and floor to weld it. After removing the floor, we saw a not very beautiful picture: the interior floor frame is outwardly normal (albeit rusty), it was easily broken through with a screwdriver. The frame tubes are rotten on the inside. In short, it was removed in an hour, the grinder simply cut it like paper.
There are no photos of the beginning of work - the camera was being repaired. Therefore, a photograph of the car with the already repaired side walls. The walls were restored simply: they cut out a rotten piece of pipe and welded in a new one, and so step by step so as not to write down or sketch the structure of the walls. Yes, welding was carried out semiautomatic, and in the absence of a welding wire, an electric arc was used, that is, you can cook with anything.
The rear compartment floor frame was welded on the model of the old one and put in place. It was carried diagonally through the rear doors.
For about an hour, the frame was exposed relative to the side walls and half an hour was enough to weld them to each other. But two hours before that they had a discussion on how to weld correctly, but it turned out to be elementary - take it and do it.
It can be seen that the different sides stood quite accurately.
The problem of corrosion of the main vehicle of the farm - the truck - can be solved without significant material costs.
Entrepreneurs know that the traffic inspectorate prohibits the use of a used truck, even when all the mechanisms are in good order, but corroded and the body is falling apart.
Spending about 3,500 rubles and two days to complete the work, you can equip the truck with an excellent homemade wooden body. A corrosion-free body will last for years, and a truck with such a body will be of great value due to improved handling stability.
Each body option has its own characteristics, but in general they are all almost the same. One of the variants of the "Gazelle" body design involves attaching the latter to the chassis using 8 bolts.
In an auto repair shop, the bolts holding the body to the frame can be cut with a gas torch in less than 15 minutes. The sheared bolt truck returns to the farm without much difficulty. It is easy to carry out the work of removing the body there, with the involvement of 3 people.
Don't make a serious mistake when performing the dismantling:
• do not forget to disconnect the wires leading to the brake lights;
Otherwise, it could cost you several hours of unsuccessful labor while performing the reverse operation.
The truck chassis can have 2 different profiles. This is easy to see when the body is removed. The chassis profile can be straight or curved over the rear wheel. Attach 4 "x 4" longitudinal rails (and further all dimensions in inches) to the chassis members.
If the chassis has a curved profile, the gap between the chassis structural member and the timber should be filled with trimmings.
The design principle and the sequence of work can be applied both on the Gazelle and on a truck of any brand:
• place 4 beams (4 × 4) across the chassis elements;
• the body platform must be fixed to these beams with nails;
• before nailing the transverse beams, it is necessary to fasten 4 oak or ash racks (2 × 3) using carriage bolts, these are vertical elements of the front part of the body;
• then it is necessary to center the transverse elements of the body, install them at equal distances from each other and fasten.
Next, make the flooring of the body (platform) from lumber. For the manufacture of flooring, spruce, oak or ash are used, depending on the operating conditions of the flooring.
The floorboards are positioned in the direction of the longitudinal axis of the body. The use of tongue-and-groove connections is possible.
Most timber body builders prefer to build the sideboards on the basis of posts. In the design of each of the sides, 4 vertical posts of ash or oak are used, as well as 4 cross-beams from pine.
Cutouts are made in the floorboards to accommodate the uprights. Cutouts are made in areas adjacent to the cross-planks.
The end parts of the 4 transverse deck elements are connected with 2 steel strips. By installing the struts into the grooves, you will receive a removable board. For the side of a one-piece structure, a rectangular frame must be made and sheathed with one-inch boards.
The assembly of the frontal body structure element is carried out directly on the truck:
• 3 strips (2 × 6) are nailed in the transverse direction from the uprights;
• then all this must be sewn up with boards;
• preliminarily, a cutout is made in them according to the dimensions of the rear window of the cab.
The front element provides protection for the cab and supports the sides.
The tailgate of the body is made as follows:
• boards are nailed to a frame corresponding to the size of the side;
• they are overlapped on the front side of the frame;
• in the closed position, all the edges of the tailgate must come close to the edges of the other boards;
• two T-shaped loops are used for attaching the tailgate;
• a movable tailgate is also made on the basis of struts, which demonstrates the structural similarity of the latter to the side walls.
The new body is coated with linseed oil or oil paint.
In the body structure, it is necessary to use mud flaps (attached to the bars with nails). Some farmers install mud flaps on either side of each rear wheel.
Video (click to play).
The main feature of a wooden body is the use of struts. The side boards are removable. Such a body appears to be functional, and only basic carpentry skills are required to make it.