DIY armored wire repair

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This revision is also suitable for those who do not have the above problems, but want throttle response and good feedback when pressing the gas pedal! Moreover, you will get gasoline savings from a more powerful spark, which will ignite the fuel mixture much more efficiently, and thus give the efficiency completely to the engine.

Silicone wires are no longer a novelty, they were made so that the wires do not crack in the cold or from time to time and our spark does not run to the “mother-in-law for pancakes”. But there is one, and a very tangible minus of such wires, this is a hair braid inside, along which our kilo-ohms are greatly lost, the longer the wire, the weaker the spark.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

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Does it make sense to make high voltage zero resistance ignition wires?

Good day to all.

I have long wanted to change the BB wires and the toad was choking to give everything from 700r to 3000r for them.
And then one day a friend gave me BB wires from the Elephant firm) Funny name.
The wires are natural for the cans, they did not fit mine on the connectors. For a long time they lay in my garage in a package.

And then one day I came across a report as a comrade maksik71 Taz wires were remaking for Mazdovsky. Well, I decided to keep up and also took up this business, since the camera was at hand and the wires were free.
Everything is very simple. It is necessary to remove the lugs from our wires and put them on the Taz wires.
We take the wire from the Elephant).

We cut off the insulators from him.

and the wire itself

You can do the same, but in a more cultured way.

Remove the insulation and leave about 1.5 cm of cord. The wires I came across were not simple) "The wire rope is made of high-strength graphite-filled Kevlar threads."

Then you need to remove the tips from your own wires. It will be more difficult here.
Since the Japanese made wires according to their minds, the wire was glued to the insulator, so you just can't tear it off with your finger. This was probably done so that water would not accidentally get under the tip insulator.
And so, we tear off this case from the wire.
I just slipped a thin screwdriver and went around the entire circumference of the wire. In this way, separating the wire from the ferrule insulator.

After that, using pliers, we pull out the wire by the tip.

Well, we free the wire from the tip with a flat screwdriver. It is necessary to unclench the clamped wire.

We bend the wire rope from the pelvis and clamp it into our tip.

It turns out this is the picture.

A tip and an insulator that fits over the candle. Everything follows the same principle.
Everything is glued almost tightly.
To make it more convenient, we tear off the wire from the insulator, then cut it off and only after that we remove the insulator.

Then we expose the rope and clamp our tip on the Tozovsky wire by bending the rope.

Assembly. We put on a rubber insulator, then a plastic insulator, we expose the rope and clamp our tip on the Tozov wire by bending the rope to the insulator.

This is such a beauty)

SUPERVISOR of the process Doberman puppy named Dobie).

Classic car high voltage wire is no different from ordinary copper single core cable, except for powerful protection against high voltage radiation. The insulating layer is made from different materials. As technology advances, manufacturers are increasingly opting for a powerful and flexible material - silicone.

Until the 30s of the last century, the influence of impulse noise on car instruments was neglected. The resistance of the copper strand was close to zero. With the advent of car radios, it became clear that pickups from high-voltage electrical cords create such strong radio interference that the devices crackle and cannot be a source of pleasant sound. Engineers came up with the idea of ​​installing a 4-15 kOhm resistor in series with the current-carrying core. This reduced radio interference.

Modern high-voltage wires are made with a 5-20 kOhm conductive graphite layer. They can be used without an additional current limiter.

Twisted steel strands are also used, reinforced with strong Kevlar threads, with a ferrimagnetic core.

As insulators, materials are used:

• polyethylene;
• polyvinyl chloride;
• feroplast;
• silicone;
• metal wrapping, like a screen.

Insulation is a combination of layers that differ in the presence of one component or the other, depending on the manufacturer's preference.

• the engine is troit;
• the thrust changes unjustifiably;
• the engine stalls, does not start well;
• increased fuel consumption;
• increased CO emissions;
• BB wires spark;
• reduced engine power.

Symptoms show that the malfunction is caused by incomplete combustion of fuel and is associated with the ignition system, although similar signs of breakdowns are typical for other auto systems.

If you find the above malfunctions in the car, then pay attention to the high-voltage ignition wires. In modern cars, they work for a long time, more than 100 thousand km. But in cars that have traveled only a thousand kilometers, but have stood in the garage without moving for more than five years, there are the same problems. Microcracks appear in the insulation, and the cable breaks through with a high voltage onto the case.

Find a dark place, preferably in the garage, clean the wires from burning and grease. Start the engine and see what happens under the bonnet. You will see a slight glow around the armored wires. If you don’t see, and the engine is running, then that’s very good. But if the glow is pronounced or the wires spark, then these are signs of a violation of the dielectric.

Sometimes grease or oils trapped in the handpieces are to blame for leaks. In this case, the voltage becomes an extremely dangerous source of ignition for a car.

Easily diagnose the ignition system by the sound of the audio system. The method is only suitable for owners of cars with old analog radio tape recorders. As soon as problems with cables begin, the radio tape recorders crackle and no power filters will help.

How to check armored wires? You can determine which of them is faulty using a conventional analog or digital tester. Checking high-voltage wires does not require an electrician's qualifications, it is enough to be able to use a multimeter and remember that no matter what product you use, the grease on the insulation must be thoroughly cleaned.

Types of conductive cores of high-voltage cables:

• copper;
• copper with built-in resistor;
• graphite;
• twisted steel winding on a dielectric.

In the first case, the resistance of high-voltage wires will approach zero, in the next three, it should fluctuate from 4 to 20 kΩ, depending on the brand. If the multimeter displays the reading above, then this is a sign that the cord is unusable. Grease on an uncleaned dipstick and a dirty surface of the insulation will distort the reading. The grease can be conductive and by measuring the resistance of the conductor you can actually see the result of the resistance of the grease and not the wire.

Checking with a tester will not detect dielectric faults and contact problems in the terminals if they are covered with grease.

How to check high voltage wires without a multimeter? Only by bringing them with the bare end to the body of the car. The presence of a spark indicates that the circuit is working. The spark must be powerful and stable.

Be sure to bend the braid and insulation during measurements, especially where the connectors are attached. If the readings of the device change, then the device is unreliable and it is better to replace it.

For example, you have determined that the armored cord of the fourth cylinder penetrates the body or in a complete break and does not affect the spark plug. Replacement required.

Replacing high voltage wires is a simple operation that any car enthusiast can perform.

It is safer to purchase a complete set. Practice has shown that products of one manufacturer produced at the same time fail almost simultaneously.

If this is an expensive decision for you, then you can make the armored wires yourself. It will be much cheaper. Before making them with your own hands, decide that the connection diagram is clear to you.

To make a kit with your own hands, it is enough to purchase:

• silicone vacuum hose with a diameter of 7-8 mm;
• tips, you can use old ones if they are in good condition;
• copper stranded cord with any suitable cross-section;
• half-watt resistors with a nominal value of 1-1.5 kOhm.

An additional element required for smoothing radio interference in modern cars should be in the range of 10-20 kOhm. If you install one element of this rating, then there is a high probability of failure during peak loads. It is better to distribute the load on several 1 kOhm devices connected in series.

A chain of self-soldered resistors is inserted into a silicone hose, cut and cleaned. Then we squeeze the ends. To improve contact, graphite grease is used at the joints.

If the insulators are difficult to put on, lubricating them with a soapy solution will help.

• there is a high probability of breaking the soldering of contacts, in conditions of high temperature;
• dependence of the ruler on one part;
• the difficulty of identifying the failed element.

If you decide to make cables with your own hands, then do not forget that high-voltage zero resistance wires are connected only through series resistance.

If the distributor cover is installed with your own hands correctly, then the connection diagram for high-voltage wires will be as follows:

• distributor output, looking towards the front bumper, towards the first cylinder;
• tip facing down towards the third cylinder;
• looking back to the fourth cylinder;
• looking up to the second cylinder;
• the central current carrying always goes to the ignition coil

Do not forget that the order of connecting high-voltage wires in cars is such that their length will not allow making an incorrect connection. Therefore, when making cords with your own hands, try to follow the same principle so as not to get confused.

Good day to all!
I'll make a reservation right away, I didn't take a photo, but I think everything will be clear.

Problem: When replacing candles on a Sunday afternoon in the evening, one high-voltage wire breaks. When repairing and replacing, one more. )) And now everything is in order.

When removing the rubber cap from the candle, a metal fastener remains in the candle well on the candle itself. In this case, it is not possible to unscrew the candle because this clip is long, narrow and so long that when you put on the candle wrench, it turns out to be just under the face with the place of fixation of the extension cord. In general, the head is on the candle, and do not fasten the extension cord, respectively, do not unscrew the candle.
I pulled out the candle head with long pliers. Then, with the same tool, he pulled off the metal residue from the candle. Its length was about 7cm. Next, we unscrew the candle in the standard way and replace it.

Next, we expand the metal tip with the broken end. We cut off the metal 10th tip and in its place we roll-crimp the Subarovsky one. Now, slowly, we tighten the new wire back into the cap. How deep to pull? There are two options: look at live-unbroken wires inward, how deep the metal fastener is from the edge; the second case, we pull slowly and if nothing superfluous is drilled out, there are seats in it in the form of circular rings along the inner perimeter of the rubber cap, i.e. you will feel that something snaps slightly into place.
We leave the opposite end of the 10th wire unchanged and simply put it on the coil to replace the broken one.
Voila, you're done!
We put the other end with a rubber cap on the candle, listen for the replaced retainer to snap into place on the candle.
Checking by car factory.
If everything is done correctly, the car starts up, does not troit, the engine does not sausage.
The price of the issue? I don’t know, just unnecessary wires in the garage, possibly a neighbor’s one. Well, or the most common ones from any auto shop.

PS While one wire was being repaired, the other was torn. Apparently they just got old. Fortunately, there was a second wire that I spoke about at the beginning, and they put it. For one, and consolidated the performed operation.
It took about 30 minutes to repair the second cable with a full hand.

Good luck to all!
(There can be a way out of any situation. A little self-control, straight arms and ingenuity will help you).

High-voltage automobile armored wires are a fairly simple element of the ignition system. In this case, the high-voltage wire performs the most important function in the operation of this system. With the help of high-voltage automobile wires from the ignition coil, electric current is transmitted to the spark plugs to generate a spark and timely ignite the fuel-air mixture in the engine cylinders.

The efficiency of ignition of the mixture directly depends on the quality of the high-voltage wires, which means the stability of the engine in different modes. A defective high voltage ignition wire or multiple wires can lead to engine triplets, increased fuel consumption, loss of power, etc. The simplicity of the device and the location of the car armored conduits allows you to accurately and quickly carry out their independent check with your own hands.

Failure of a high-voltage wire is accompanied by symptoms that are similar to failures during spark plug operation. Often, the engine starts to work unstable, twitches when you press the gas pedal, troit at idle. Electric current may not be supplied to the spark plug at all, or it may not reach the spark plug completely. In the second case, a breakdown of the high-voltage ignition wire usually takes place.

If the ignition armored wire is punctured, then the engine starts to work with noticeable interruptions. The main reasons for the failure of high-voltage automotive wires are:

• malfunction of the contacts of the high-voltage wire at the junction with the spark plugs or ignition coil;
• the conductive core of the wire for impulse supply is damaged;
• destruction of the insulation of the high-voltage automotive ignition wire, which leads to current breakdown and leaks;
• increased resistance of high-voltage armored wires;

In the event that there is a break in the main core, then a spark is formed inside the high-voltage wire at the place of such a break. The formation of an electrical discharge between the two ends of a high-voltage armored wire broken under the insulation leads to a voltage drop, causing an unwanted electromagnetic pulse. Such an impulse has a negative effect on automotive sensors of the electronic engine control system (ECM), the correctness of their readings is violated.

In some cases, when the cylinder does not work completely, fuel consumption can increase significantly and the color of the exhaust changes. This is due to the ingress of unburned fuel from the combustion chamber into the exhaust system.

It is necessary to start diagnostics with an external examination of high-voltage wires. With such an external examination, the presence of noticeable defects in the form of cracks, fractures, etc. is not allowed.

The other high-voltage ignition wires should be checked in the same way. It should be borne in mind that the spread in readings between all wires should not be higher than 2 or a maximum of 4 kOhm. Exceeding this threshold will indicate the need to replace high-voltage automotive ignition wires.

It should be added that if a faulty wire is found, replacing only one defective element is not recommended, since it is a temporary measure. It is optimal to change high-voltage armored ignition cables in a car as a set. This approach allows for the most efficient operation of the ignition system and smooth operation of the engine in all modes. For the same reason, it is highly discouraged to repair high-voltage wires for further operation without replacement.

As a rule, most motorists pay great attention to candles, choose for a long time, study the characteristics and other specifications, not paying any attention to high-voltage wires, which play an equally, and sometimes a large role in sparking. As a result, high-quality spark plugs receive a low-quality spark, or simply after a short period of time. cheap explosive wires they just fail and cause a lot of trouble to their owner.

High-voltage wires can fail in whole or in part, that is, they either do not conduct current at all, or conduct it with losses or interruptions. More often than not, no one pays attention to the wires; instead, they usually start changing the candles right away.

1. Break of the central conductive "core".
2. Rupture (damage) of the insulating layer, due to which there is a breakdown of the current to "ground".
3. Due to the high internal resistance that occurs as a result of the burnout of the central core. As a rule, in those places where there is poor contact or deformation.

A rupture or fracture of a conductive core leads to the fact that a spark appears inside, an electrical discharge between the two ends of one wire. This phenomenon reduces the voltage that is transmitted from the coil and becomes the cause of the occurrence of an electromagnetic pulse, it is also called "parasitic". Such a pulse negatively affects the performance or the accuracy of the readings of the engine sensors. As for the engine itself, its operation with a damaged high-voltage wire becomes unstable, vibrations and interruptions occur, synchrony is disturbed, since ignition in one of the cylinders either does not occur, or occurs, but with a delay. One way or another, the synchronization of the pistons is disrupted, which dampens vibrations, one cylinder does not work correctly and causes vibration and beating.

1. Strip the edges of the wire.
2. Fix one end of the wire to the negative terminal of the battery, and attach the other end to the contact of the light bulb.
3. The same must be done with the high-voltage wire, only its end (the one from the coil) must be attached to the “plus” bolt of the battery, and the other through the rod of a metal screwdriver to the lamp body.

If the light is on, we can conclude that the wire is working. This method is rather an alternative than the only correct one. Various ways how to check high voltage wires there is a large number, but for me it is the fastest and most optimal. In addition, it all depends on what you have at hand on the road.

There is also another way to test high voltage wires that does not require a light bulb. It is enough to have a piece of wire. The meaning is this:

Start the engine and drive at medium speed or touch the wire to the BB wire over the entire surface. If you notice or hear a spark, the wire is broken and needs to be replaced.

The same can be done without a piece of wire, your hand can play its role. I agree that the method is radical and may not be suitable for everyone, but it will help to identify the broken wire. At idle, run your finger along the length of the wire and wait for it to "tinkle" 🙂 In the event of a breakdown or damage to the wire, you will feel a blow, this is not fatal, but if you are afraid, it is better to find a piece of wire. If you are not hit, the high-voltage wire is completely working.

Replace of course! But if you are on the road or, as I said above, “in the field,” you can solve the problem with electrical tape, a bag, scotch tape, etc. Dry the punctured high-voltage wire, then wrap it with one of the above and try to continue motion. When you get home, replace the high-voltage wires, and all of them, not just one. It is all the wires that need to be changed, since you do not know what resistance the one wire that you buy will have and how it will “get along” with the others; in the end, nothing will change and the engine will be unstable. Change wires as a set!

How to replace the high-voltage wire harness yourself (high-voltage wires complete with an ignition coil wire 2108-21099 on a car of the VAZ 2108-21099 family and their modifications with a carburetor engine.

If you are faced with malfunctions of the car ignition system, I strongly recommend diagnosing all systems of the car as soon as possible. First of all, you need to check the resistance of the high-voltage ignition wires using a multimeter.

High-voltage wires in the car must remain functional in the temperature range of -30 - +100 degrees. Russian operating conditions often include temperatures outside the lower limit. Sometimes the mechanical strength is artificially increased. And this is done at the expense of cotton fabric, polymer, nylon and some more.

Ignition is an integral part of the car's structure, so it is very important to fix any malfunctions related to it. Also, do not forget to check the neutral wire, protective and others. It is advisable not to miss a single one.

There are two types of basic faults: The first is a break in electricity, the second is a leakage current. The first is often found in the place where the metal contact of the wire is connected to the core, and the rest of the ignition system. In places where a violation occurs, heating and arcing can occur, which aggravates the situation even more. In the worst case, this can lead to the fact that the metal contacts burn out, or this will happen to the wires.

Electricity leaks through dirty spark plugs, ignition coil wires and distributor caps.

During low temperatures, the wires become more rigid, and it is more likely that their caps and insulation will be damaged. Due to the constant vibration that accompanies the operation of the engine, the joints are significantly loosened. This may impair contact.When temperatures are high, it takes a toll on the spark plug caps as they are closest to heated parts. Often they fail when removed.

After some time, the elements of the ignition system become covered with a layer of dirt and dust, moisture and a couple of fuels and lubricants, and this is inevitable.

The risk is especially high in wet weather. Microcracks also increase from moisture and dirt.

To get to the high-voltage wires, you need to do the following:

There are several ways to check high voltage wires:

a. For a quick check in the field, you need two things - a light bulb and a piece of wire. This is done in three steps:

2. fixing one end of the wire to the negative part of the battery terminal, and the other end must be attached to the contact of the light bulb.

3. the same actions must also be carried out with a high-voltage wire, only the end of it should be attached to the positive bolt of the battery. The other end is attached via a rod from a metal screwdriver to the bulb body.

If the light comes on, the wire can be called a working wire. This method is the simplest, but more alternative than the only correct one. There are many ways to check, but the most optimal one. Much of the check depends on what you have with you on the road.

b. Does not provide for the presence of a paw. This requires a wire. First of all, we start the engine at medium speed or touch the wire to the explosive on the entire surface. If a spark is seen or heard, this means that this wire is broken. It urgently needs to be replaced.

DO NOT BRAKES - BUY CHEAPER! ! !

v. Without a piece of wire. A hand can act in its capacity. This method is, of course, radical, but not for everyone. Although it will help identify a broken wire. At idle, you need to drive your finger along the entire length until it "jokes". If there is breakdown or damage, a shock will be felt, but not strong. If the blow followed, then everything is in order.

Replacement of high voltage wires:

- Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

- remove the old high-voltage wires from the sockets of the distributor cover.

Do not try to connect BB wires in a bundle.

- Disassemble the harness with new explosive wires, release the wires from the plastic holders.

- Connect the high voltage leads to the appropriate cylinder plugs.

- Lay the explosive wires so that they do not rub against each other, engine parts, hoses. Avoid sharp bends and strains on the wires.

1. It should be remembered that the distributor cover itself is installed on the distributor in only one position, so it is impossible to confuse anything.

2. It has an alignment mark that defines the wire socket to the first cylinder.

3. Install the wires in the sequence 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, counterclockwise.

- After connecting all the wires, fix them in the bundle with the special comb holders included in the delivery set.

Do not forget to connect the wire to the negative terminal of the battery.

YOU DO IT

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