There is nothing complicated in the question of how to replace a worn-out chuck with a drill. To do this, it is enough to purchase an appropriate clamping device, remove the old one from the drill and install a new one on it. It should be borne in mind that both conventional and mini-drills can be fitted with cartridges of two types:
Chucks, for installation on a drill of which a thread is used, are removed and fixed according to the above scheme. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is threaded; it is also important to take into account the markings that are mandatory applied to it. Such chucks can be marked as follows:
The interval 1.5-13, present in the designation data, indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool to be installed. The rules for replacing the chuck with a drill suggest that the new clamping device must have a marking that is completely identical to that of the old one.
With the question of how to replace a cone chuck with a drill, everything is somewhat simpler. Various markings can also be applied to devices of this type, namely:
To replace a chuck of this type with a drill, you just need to select a clamping device with the appropriate marking and insert its seat into the tapered hole of the drilling equipment. It is quite simple to navigate in such a marking: the letter "B" means that this is a cone-type cartridge, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the bore.
Removing the cone chuck from the drill is as easy as installing it. In order to perform such a procedure, you just need to knock the clamping device out of the drill bore, for which a conventional hammer is used. You can also get acquainted with the details of installing and removing the cone chuck of an electric drill by watching the corresponding video.
On Soviet drills, the cartridge with a cone mount simply knocked out, the design of the gearbox allowed such rudeness. To remove the cartridge of modern models, you need to use pullers or special tools
How to disassemble a screwdriver or drill chuck? This procedure must be periodically performed for the maintenance of the device (cleaning and lubrication of all its internal elements), as well as minor repairs. This significantly extends the service life of the chuck.
When disassembling a cartridge, you should take into account what type it belongs to. Focusing on the instructions or video, you must perform all the steps for disassembling such a device as carefully as possible so as not to damage its constituent elements. After all maintenance or repair procedures for the drill chuck have been completed, reassemble it in reverse order.
If the structural elements are badly worn out and it is not possible to restore them, it is better to replace the entire mechanism, which will be much cheaper than repairing it.
VIDEO Manufacturers of electric drills do not intend to disassemble the chuck, therefore, this information cannot be found in the operating instructions for the tool. But there may be cases when it is necessary to perform such manipulations. For example, to lubricate and clean the component parts when the chuck has become tightly clamped, and it is necessary to apply great force to bring the jaws together. This can happen due to its contamination with construction dust or rust after moisture ingress.
Seemingly non-separable, the cartridge can be divided into its component parts. The most common three-jaw units of a household electric drill are of two types: key and quick-clamping.
The key chuck can be disassembled in two ways: using a hammer drill and using a hammer.
In order to disassemble the cartridge in the easiest, perforating way, you must perform the following steps:
1. Spread the cams until they are completely hidden in the body.
2. Fasten a metal blunt insert of such a diameter in the hammer drill so that it fits freely into the threaded spindle hole of the chuck.
3. Support the cartridge on a massive surface, having previously substituted a shock-absorbing gasket (for example, in the form of a rubber plate several centimeters thick). As a stop, you can use a thick metal plate held by your free hand, table, workbench, floor.
4. Start the punch, and after two to three seconds the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) will be knocked off the chuck.
5. The cams can now be removed from the body. Attention! Performing this operation, it is necessary to make the appropriate marks on the body and on the cams so that during assembly they fall into place. Otherwise the fixed drill will not be centered.
The disadvantage of this method: when the clip is knocked down, some parts may fly apart (for example, a ring with teeth; it usually consists of two halves), and an inexperienced user will add the hassle of collecting all the components together.
Having disassembled the cartridge, it is possible to clean it from dust, rust and dirt, as well as lubricate the parts.
The assembly of the cartridge is carried out in the following sequence:
1. Extend the cams manually to maximum.
2. Place the two halves of the toothed ring in the corresponding groove in the body.
3. Holding the ring with your fingers, it is necessary to hide the cams inward, rotating the chuck body.
4. Put on the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) until it stops. This cannot be done completely. Must be pressed in with a hammer.
5. To do this, install the cartridge vertically on a special washer so that the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) rests on it, and the body can freely pass into the hole. Instead of a washer, you can use a bench vise with jaws diluted to the required size or a pipe cut of a suitable diameter.
6.Place a gasket in the form of a thick plate made of soft metal (aluminum or copper alloy) on the chuck from above, and press the body into the sleeve (jacket, adjusting sleeve) with hammer blows.
This disassembly method is very similar to the previous one, but not all users have a hammer drill, so you can use a hammer instead:
1. First, you need to "hide" the cams inward, spreading them to the required position.
2. Place the chuck vertically on a set bench vice until the body can pass between the jaws, and the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) rests against them.
3. Quickly warm up the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) with a construction hair dryer. Instead of a hair dryer, you can use a blowtorch.
4. Place the shock absorber in the form of a soft metal plate (aluminum or copper alloy) on top of the cartridge.
5. Knock the body out of the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) with a hammer blow.
6. After that, clean and lubricate the parts and assemble in the order indicated in the perforating method. In this case, you can reheat the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) using a hot air gun or blowtorch.
The disadvantage of this method is the increased "invasiveness" of parts.
Also, it is advisable to use heating only if absolutely necessary, when it is impossible to knock down the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) without this. After all, exposure to high temperatures can lead to a change in the structure of the metal, which will make the parts soft.
The design of the keyless chuck is much more complicated than the key one, therefore, in order for the process to be reversible, you should not completely disassemble the assembly:
2. After the clutch has moved, it can be removed by hand.
3. Then you need to spread the cams to the maximum, insert a metal rod into the chuck (a long bolt will do) and knock the body out of the second part of the plastic sleeve with a hammer blows on it.
At this point, the disassembly process must be stopped. All lubrication points are open. If you continue the disassembly further, then it will become irreversible.
The build process is performed in the following sequence:
2. Pressing the end corkscrew with a hammer through the spacer in the form of a wooden board.
3. Pressing on the lower part of the coupling using hands.
The drill is one of the most used tools in the home. But sometimes the question arises of how to disassemble the drill chuck. With all the reliability, the tool sometimes fails. Chuck breakage can be one of the reasons.
Electric drill device diagram.
The design of the chuck is quite simple, and almost all drills have similar elements. At the same time, the compactness of the arrangement of parts and the strength of the fastening can cause difficulties. The issue of disassembling a tool often becomes quite relevant.
Springless drill chuck.
The chuck is an important element in the design of any type of drill - hammer drill or screwdriver. It ensures that the drill is firmly seated and rotationally transmitted from the shaft. Based on the functional features, two main units can be distinguished - the system for attaching the drill and the system for attaching the chuck to the main shaft of the drill.
The cam-type chuck used in most drills stands out in terms of the mechanism for fixing the drill. Its principle of operation is based on the movement of special metal jaws (cams) placed on a cone. The cylinder, rotating along the tapered surface, provides the movement of the cams in the transverse direction, bringing them closer or apart.Accordingly, a drill placed between the jaws is clamped or released depending on the direction of movement of the jaws.
Electric drill chucks differ in the way they drive the cylinder (adjusting sleeve) around the cams. Two options are used - key (normal) and quick-clamping. The key method involves the presence of additional gearing between the elements and is implemented using a special key that drives the gear. The quick-release version is based on rolling the sleeve over the threaded surface made on the cams. Sleeve rotation is done manually.
Diagram of a classic drill chuck.
According to the method of attachment to the tool shaft, the chucks can be divided into threaded and conical. Threaded threads are screwed onto the shaft by means of a threaded connection. Tapered ones use the principle of Morse tapers, i.e. have a tapered end hole, into which the tapered shaft shank is tightly inserted.
The chuck of a cam-type electric drill reliably fixes drills with a cylindrical shank of different diameters in a certain range. Most often, elements are produced with a range of installed drills 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.
The entire construction of the chuck is assembled on the inner taper bushing (shaft) - the base. Cam guide rings are located on the base surface. The cams themselves are made of metal bars and have a thread on the outer surface in the form of transverse grooves. In the upper part, the bars are cut to a cone. The grooves on all cams are made so that when the bars are aligned, the grooves form a single thread.
Cams (in the amount of three or four pieces) are placed on the tapered surface of the base and passed through the guide rings. An adjusting sleeve is installed on top of the base with cams, made in the form of a cylinder with an internal thread similar to the thread on the cams. From the front side of the chuck, a washer and an annular bearing are put on successively. Finally, the entire structure is secured with a nut with teeth from the outside.
Common types of drill chucks.
On the back side, in the center of the base, a hole is made for attaching to the drill shaft. Depending on the type of chuck, this hole is either a threaded cylinder or a cone without a thread. The hole is not through. On the surface that plugs the end hole, another hole of a smaller diameter with a left-hand thread for a locking screw is made.
After assembly, the cartridge is a single unit and works as follows. The cylindrical sleeve with its thread rolls around the thread of the cams, while it does not have the possibility of longitudinal movement. This movement along the surface of the base is forced by the cams. Since the base has the shape of a cone, the cams, moving longitudinally, are simultaneously forced to approach in the transverse direction.
In key-type chucks, an additional retaining ring is installed with a threaded knurled surface on the surface. A gear moves along this thread, the hollow shaft of which is brought into a seat on the sleeve. This gear is driven by turning the key. The gear wheel, rolling around the ring, rotates the adjusting sleeve.
Keyless chuck device.
The chuck is installed on the main shaft of the electric drill with a hole in its base. It is either twisted (threaded type of fastening), or tightly upset on a cone (cone type of fastening). Through the hole in the base, the chuck is secured with a left-hand threaded locking screw. To do this, the jaws are completely parted, and the screw is vertically inserted into its hole and screwed counterclockwise.
Those who have disassembled the cartridge know that first it must be removed from the drill shaft. Removal is done as follows. Sponges are completely divorced.Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the locking screw, which is located inside and below the chuck between the cams. The screw is unscrewed in a clockwise direction. Then the drill is fixed in a stationary state and the chuck is unscrewed clockwise. Usually, after the tool has been used, it is firmly fixed on the shaft. Therefore, you have to make an effort.
Diagram of the percussion mechanism of the drill.
The drill body should be clamped in a vice, and the chuck is unscrewed with a gas wrench. To avoid damaging the sleeve, a gasket should be used between the key and the sleeve. If this effort is not enough, then two keys can be used. One key firmly fixes the shaft of the electric drill, and the second key rotates the chuck.
The cone-mounted chuck is much easier to remove. The drill is held stationary in an upright position downward. From the rear, the end surface of the chuck is first lightly tapped with a hammer over the entire area. Then, with stronger blows in several places, the cartridge is knocked off the shaft. To evenly distribute the force, you can install a wrench on the surface and hit it.
Chuck device diagram.
The question of how to disassemble the drill chuck quickly is decided in the following order. The element is secured in a vice, preferably through a soft metal gasket. First, the top nut with teeth is unscrewed. A gas wrench can be used, but be careful not to damage the nut. Pre-lubricate with oil. Then the bearing and washer are removed.
The chuck is removed from the vise and the sleeve is manually unscrewed from the base. If the sleeve is jammed, then the cartridge can be disassembled only by applying force. To do this, he is clamped again in a vice, but with the back side up. Oil is poured between the base and the sleeve. Using a gas wrench, the base is unscrewed.
If there is a lower lock nut or ring, then they must first be removed.
The base is removed from the sleeve. The cams are removed from the guide rings and removed from the tapered part of the base. The issue of disassembling the tool has been resolved.
Sometimes a situation arises when removing the chuck from the drill shaft is very difficult. In this case, you can remove the chuck together with the shaft. For this, the tool body is first opened. By unclamping the fastening clamp, the retaining ring is released. Then the gear and key are removed, with which the gear is fixed to the shaft. The retaining ring, bearing and spring are successively removed from the shaft. The chuck together with the shaft is removed from the tool body.
After the cartridge is disassembled, all parts should be carefully examined. Repairs are easy to make if the parts are intact and the seizure is caused by the ingress of metal shavings into adjacent parts. In this case, rinse all parts well with oil or kerosene. You can use a soft brush for this. After cleaning the parts, you can reassemble in the reverse order, but manually, without much effort.
Most often, the malfunction is caused by wear or damage to the threaded and serrated surfaces. If these damages are small and local in nature, then you can try to eliminate them by grinding with a file or sanding paper. If grinding does not help, the chuck should be replaced completely.
VIDEO
If it is necessary to remove and disassemble the chuck of the electric drill, then the following tool should be prepared:
vice;
pliers;
screwdriver;
hammer;
mallet;
chisel;
file;
sanding paper;
brush;
oiler;
gas key;
Adjustable wrench;
set of wrenches;
awl;
file;
calipers.
VIDEO
The issue of disassembling the cartridge is solved in different ways. Sometimes it is very easy to do this, and sometimes complications arise. In any case, you can disassemble the cartridge, and this is done by hand.
In electric drills, a special device called a chuck is used to securely hold the drills. In household drills, cam chucks are the most widely used. With intensive use, they can fail and require replacement or repair. Problems often arise during these operations. So how do you remove the chuck from the drill shaft, disassemble it into its component parts and replace it with a new one?
Clamping drill chucks for household drills are available in three versions:
The body of the key chuck is made in the form of a hardened hollow cylindrical sleeve (collet), on the outer surface of which a rotating adjusting ring is installed. On one side, the cylinder is attached to the drive shaft of the drill, and on the other side there are cams (petals) for attaching the cutting tool (drills, taps, reamers, etc.). When the adjusting ring rotates, the steel cams move along the guides with the help of a special thread. If they come close to each other, the drill is clamped. If they diverge from each other, the tool is released. The convergence and distance of the cams depends on the direction of rotation of the cage. Reliable fixation of the drill is ensured by tightening the chuck holder with great effort. To do this, use a special key or a quick-release - on quick-release chucks - a coupling.
The wrench helps to grip the drill tightly and easily unscrew the adjusting collar. In jaw chucks, drills of various diameters with a cylindrical shank are fixed. Most often, household electric drill chucks are designed for drills with a diameter of 0.8 to 10 mm or 1.5 to 13 mm.
The clamping device must be able to drill holes with an acceptable accuracy. But over time, the seats on the shaft and at the cams wear out, the chuck begins to beat. That is, the working area of the drill begins to move from side to side during rotation, and the hole is drilled with deviations both in place and in diameter. The wear of the jaws does not allow the drills to be securely clamped, and they stop under load. There is only one way out - to change the worn out cartridge for a new one.
To mount the chuck on the drive shaft of the drill, a threaded connection or Morse taper is used. A visual inspection of an electric drill does not always help to suggest how to fix the drill chuck. The marking on the cartridge can inform about this: it is knocked out on its surface.
The standard size of the Morse taper (according to GOST 9953–82) consists of 9 values: from B7 to B45. The larger the number after the letter B, the larger the diameter of the cone.
Thus, having found the marking "B" on the surface of the cartridge, we can conclude that this is a device with a tapered mounting base. With this method of attachment, the cartridge can be removed easily. It is enough to use a drift and a bench hammer.
VIDEO
Two types of threads are used to secure the drilling chuck to an electric household drill using a threaded joint:
inch (for foreign models);
metric (from Russian manufacturers).
Markings of the following type are applied to the surface of the body of the threaded chuck: 1.5-13 1/2 - 20UNF or 1.5-13 M12x1.25.
The reversible threaded chuck has a left-hand thread for fixing. You need to know this nuance when removing a broken cartridge. In order to get to the screw head, it is necessary to drown the cams in the collet to failure. Once the screw head is visible, use a hardened Phillips screwdriver to unscrew it clockwise to the right. Then clamp the hex key into the cams and hit it sharply in the counterclockwise direction. After the cartridge is ripped off, it can be easily unscrewed.
VIDEO
On other models, there are other options for fastening the cartridge to the thread. In some cases, the chuck is twisted entirely from the threaded end of the shaft.In other cases, the screw can be fixed with a special thin wrench using a narrow slot. The main difficulty is to move the cartridge from its place when unscrewing. This is sometimes very difficult to do. In any case, to remove the cartridge you need: a locksmith's tool, the necessary skill and patience.
To clean the cams, lubricate the moving parts and threads of the cartridge, it must be disassembled. Disassembly is necessary to repair and replace damaged parts. Here is a quick checklist and sequence for disassembling the chuck:
The removed cartridge with its conical part upwards, lined with wooden gaskets, is clamped by the coupling in a vice.
Using a gas wrench, the knurled nut is carefully unscrewed.
The bearing is pulled out. Washer gets out.
The cartridge is removed from the vice.
The adjusting sleeve is twisted from the base by hand. If it does not give in (jammed), then the chuck turns over and again is squeezed by the coupling in a vice. A little machine oil is poured onto the threaded part of the coupling and base. Then, with a gas wrench, the base is skillfully unscrewed from the coupling.
If there is a retaining ring or nut underneath, these can be removed.
The cams are pulled out of the guide rings and removed from the base cone.
All parts of the drill chuck are carefully inspected. If worn, deformed or broken parts are found, they are rejected and replaced.
The jaw chuck is assembled in the reverse order. At the same time, all moving parts are lubricated with a special grease. It is best to use the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer.
The procedure for disassembling cartridges of other models may be different. It depends on the type of chuck, its design and the manufacturer of the drill. To disassemble the drill chuck yourself, three conditions must be met:
have the necessary set of tools available;
have plumbing skills;
to be a person with a stable, balanced psyche.
To avoid problems with the drill, you need to be able to work correctly on it. A drill is a versatile tool, with its help you can drill wood and metal, plastic and tiles, stone and glass, concrete and brick. In everyday life, a medium-power rotary percussion drill is usually used. It is equipped with a cartridge for the SDS system, which was invented by BOSH. The SDS chuck is not very accurate, but it is ideal for drilling concrete, stone, brick. That is, those building materials where drilling is needed with a blow.
For more accurate drilling of metal and wood parts, it has a special adapter for attaching a jaw key or keyless chuck. The drill must not be used for milling work. The drill chuck is not designed for lateral loading and will fail quickly. Of great importance is:
the right choice of drill;
correct sharpening of the cutting part of the drill;
mandatory marking of the center of the holes using a core.
It is necessary to skillfully use the choice of the desired speed, feed, operating mode, depending on the material of the workpiece. All these factors directly affect the reliable operation of the drill chuck.
Does the cartridge fly off? This problem is quite common even on newer drills when the chuck is tapered when a deep hole is drilled. You need to raise the drill to free it from the chips, and at this moment the chuck flies off the cone. The situation can be corrected by increasing the tightness in the taper mate. To do this, the cartridge is heated in oil or an oven to a temperature of 110 degrees and placed on a cold drill mandrel.
The drill always works in dirty conditions. These are dust, dirt, shavings, sawdust and other small debris. If it gets inside the chuck, this can cause seizure of threaded connections, in particular at the cams. There is only one way out. Disassembly of the cartridge, cleaning and rinsing of moving parts is required.Before assembly, all moving parts are lubricated with lithol. Especially a lot of waste is poured into the chuck when drilling ceiling surfaces. Here you can think about protecting the cartridge with a half of a small rubber ball.
Chuck beating can be caused by various reasons. For example, Morse taper is worn out. This can be checked with paint. A uniform layer is applied to the cone, the cartridge is fitted. Then the footprint that he left on the cone is removed and studied. Another reason could be uneven wear on the cams. In this case, they need to be changed. But more often the broken chuck is replaced with a new clamping device.
Video (click to play).
In the right hands, a household drill works wonders. With its help, holes are drilled in durable and soft materials. The chuck is an important part of the drilling machine. It is he who ensures the reliability of the drill fastening and the drilling accuracy. Therefore, it is very important for a home craftsman to be able to independently provide minor repairs and replacement of this part of the device.
