DIY canon 350d repair

In detail: do-it-yourself canon 350d repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

yesterday they dropped the camera to the ground, as a result, when trying to take a picture, it gives Err 99 after a click
the sound has changed when photographing, without the lens, the effect is exactly the same
apparently the shutter does not work
called Moscow to the service they say Err 99 - 90% shutter
every detail is delivered under the order for 2-3 weeks

maybe someone has experience in repair, suddenly there is some trifle like a spring that has jumped off

It seems to me that springs do not fly off on fotik after 30k when they fall ..

maybe someone has experience in repair, suddenly there is some trifle like a spring that has jumped off

Hard to say. when falling, something can just crack and move, because plastic. especially if somewhere something was slightly overstretched. And the mirror itself, hand back and forth? Working? It should automatically get up to its starting position

The mirror works fine, I tried the cleaning mode - the mirror rises, and there is a curtain.
descends normally even after cleaning and if you lift it with your hands
I even tried to update the firmware - it was updated remarkably, the result is zero

will go to Moscow for service at the end of the week
By the way, what do you think, with paid repairs, spare parts will be found right away or also wait 2-3 weeks?

Video (click to play).

will go to Moscow for service at the end of the week
By the way, what do you think, with paid repairs, spare parts will be found right away or also wait 2-3 weeks?

Well then, the electronics are to blame. most likely there are not spare parts and are needed, but a check of the contacts and the integrity of the assembly, loops and printed wipes

will go to Moscow for service at the end of the week

There was a similar problem with the 300th. In general, after about a couple of hundred thousand frames, the secondary mirror simply disappeared. I filmed for about 5 more months. just jammed the mirror up and shot. true without autofocus. which was no problem on my lens. (EF 28-105 USM II) Then I handed it over to the service under warranty (We have “Apriori” in the Skull). They returned it after a couple of months with a new bolt. I made a big mistake when I handed over the device for repair. it was on New Year's Eve, so I spent a long time there. The problem for the 300 was common. At least one other apparatus in Cherepovets had the same symptoms, but the Canon company also repaired it free of charge, although the repair time was also at least a month.

So if you do not report that you broke it yourself, it is possible and just like that they will be repaired. But the fact that he himself got into it with his hands is not gut. This is still not a tractor, and you should not investigate yourself without knowledge of the matter. you can do all sorts of nasty things.

Just recolor. And then he is some kind of black and boring.

For this we need:
spray paint (I used Montana Gold graffiti paint)
masking tape
stationery knife
the camera itself

What you may need:
WD-40
respirator
surgical gloves
solvent

Summarize:
Not sure what you will do - do not take it.
If the camera has been adjusted, you will knock it out.
You will smell paint for a long time.
If the camera is under warranty, its unauthorized disassembly may result in denial of warranty service.

Bottom line in photos:
The photographs show all my flaws. But I decided I would fix them tomorrow.

The prices in the table are for repair work, excluding the cost of spare parts.

All information provided is for reference only and is not a public offer. Check the terms and the actual cost of repairs with our specialists by phone +7 (495) 363-78-55

The Tech-Profi service center is always happy to help in solving problems that have arisen with your digital camera. Our engineers carry out repairs of any complexity. From lens repair, shutter module (shutters, aperture, stabilizer), to complex electrical repair of the motherboard and restoration of the Canon EOS 350D camera after flooding, sand or severe mechanical damage, at the lowest prices in Moscow.

The addresses of our service centers:

* Discount is provided for the work of the master. Specify the exact cost by phone.

The other day they brought a camera CANON 350d with the diagnosis it does not turn on and was asked to look, they also said that it had already been disassembled and found there an unscrewed bolt, which was returned to its place, but the fotik did not work. After a little googling, I found out that the unscrewing bolt is a disease of these cameras and it is not always curable. Since he had not fixed the fotiki before, he gladly agreed to tinker with him.

Read also: DIY drain pump float repair

The first step was to disassemble it, below I will post pictures with the disassembly sequence.
We take out the card, the battery and unscrew the 6 bolts, it should be noted that some bolts differ in length, so in the photo I noted which ones where.

After them ~~studying~~ viewing, the likelihood of reviving the camera decreased by an order of magnitude, but still there was hope. The only idea was to check the fuse, but first you had to find it.

There were two fuses, the first one connects the battery to the board.

After ringing two fuses, it turned out that one of them was not working (the one in front, not under the screen), then briefly closed the leads with tweezers, with the expectation that if the fuse is to blame, the fotik should turn on (the screen will light up) if the fotik does not turn on , then quickly remove the tweezers. As a result, one of the LEDs blinked, which did not blink before, this created a double impression, like the fotik is alive, but it seems not. In general, I went to google and on one forum there was a mention that if the battery compartment cover is open, the fotik will not turn on, and since the fotik was disassembled, the lid was accordingly open. I think everyone has already guessed that after closing the lid, the fotik started working. The fuse was removed, and a jumper was soldered in its place.

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Hello everybody!
Recently, after two years of use, the camera stopped turning on, after the battery was discharged, it was charged and reinserted.
Must be brought in for repair. The first thing that was discovered was the service centers indicated on the site, but there are not many of them, and so it’s hard to believe that they are all very good.

Could you, dear amateurs and professionals, suggest some more or proven repair shops where you can return the device?
Or is there nothing to show off and boldly carry in M-Video?

Canon printers only, many pieces and different models, was satisfied with the work Photographic equipment pah no triraza. but the reviews of friends are positive. I want to try to send a camera for adjustment there, but so far I manage to do so, unlike some other neofits. SC and watchmakers promised to test the camera themselves completely and only then, if necessary, make a correction. When some other bureaus ask themselves to name where and what is missing, it is screwed up or a carcass to determine the lens, and then they will correct it exactly where asked.

I gave the camera and lens for alignment under warranty. I was going on a business trip and there were 4 days left, I asked if possible to meet the repair at this time I was even ready to pay for the urgency. They did everything in 2 days and didn't even take money
Recommend.

Could you, dear amateurs and professionals, suggest some more or proven repair shops where you can return the device?
Or is there nothing to show off and boldly carry in M-Video?

there is one more battery in the cell, in the battery compartment. see instructions. maybe she sat down and the camera doesn't want to live.

As a person who is actively interested in photography in the infrared range, I have always wanted to have a digital camera that allows you to take infrared images with a short exposure, and ideally, even handheld. The most affordable way to do this is to modify a conventional camera by removing the glass filter in front of the sensor, which blocks infrared light - the so-called. hot-mirror.

In America, there are several companies involved in the modification of the cameras sent to them, as well as the sale of already modified ones (maxmax.com, lifepixel.com), but their prices are absolutely extortionate, plus the incredible cost of shipping equipment, plus customs. In general, I decided not to wait for mercy from nature, but to take everything from it myself.

My first conversion object was a camera. Canon G5 Is a pretty decent device with a lot of semi-professional capabilities (including the ability to shoot RAW), well-established on the market, but at the same time, it has been out of production for several years. Since it was difficult (or too lazy) to find a similar device in St. Petersburg, I bought it through ebay. It only remained to clarify various technical details regarding the disassembly process, make a transparent filter-substitute (otherwise autofocus will not work without a filter, and the matrix will quickly become clogged with dust) and acquire the necessary tool.

As a guide, I used an article from lifepixel.com, which describes this process in detail, as well as information from this article. From the tools, a Phillips screwdriver marked N0.00 came in handy. Also, in order to unscrew the 3 screws holding the matrix, a hex screwdriver with an asterisk slot was needed, but there was no such in the available stores, so I just had to file a slightly larger hexagonal socket wrench with a file. So, how it was:

Cut a piece of 11x12mm from the glass from the broken photo frame with a glass cutter. The thickness of the glass is recommended to be taken from 2.57 to 3.09 mm, but I only had this glass with a thickness of 1.5 mm at hand. In the future, you will probably have to replace it with a thicker one, but for now it is enough for tests. The glass, of course, must be thoroughly cleaned.

This is how the transparent filter I cut out and the hot-mirror already extracted look like, if you put them side by side.

So, let's take a parting glance at the camera, remove the CF and battery, disconnect the belt.

Open the screen, unscrew 2 screws next to the CF cover, 2 screws near the viewfinder, 2 on the connector side, 1 on the bottom side and take out the back panel. Pay attention to the joystick spring, don't lose it.

We carefully disconnect all the connectors: 1 - the purple latch flips up. 2,3 are gently pry off with a screwdriver and pulled up. 4 - move aside the purple clips. 5,6,7 - push back the brown clips. 8.9 - do not have latches, they are gently picked up with a needle and removed.

Now unscrew the 2 screws in the upper left and lower right corner of the "motherboard".

Gently pry off the “motherboard” with a screwdriver and flip it to the left. Pull out the purple connector on the underside. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the screen, remove the screen.We remove the panel of USB connectors and others. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the metal panel to which the screen was attached and remove the panel.

We unscrew the screw holding the protective screen, carefully remove the screen. Pay attention to the upper right corner - it clings to something, do not damage it.

Now for the most painstaking part. It is necessary to unscrew the 3 screws holding the matrix. The screws are hex star-shaped and secured with adhesive. Very carefully you need to peel off the glue, while not damaging any of the connectors. After unscrewing the screws, the matrix is held in place by the remnants of the glue, so you need to carefully pry it off with a screwdriver. Make sure not to lose 2 springs and 3 washers under the matrix.

The screws from the matrix are unscrewed.

Prying the matrix with a screwdriver, carefully remove it by the connector. Put it in a dust-free place right away - otherwise you won't clean it up forever.

Under the removed matrix, we see a bluish glass - the very hot-mirror that needs to be removed. It is glued to a rubber gasket, which in turn is glued to the inner body of the camera. Gently detach the gasket from the walls with a screwdriver, and then hook it up from the bottom.

hot-mirror checked out. Some kind of dust immediately flew in its place.

We put our filter in place of the hot-mirror. In theory, it should be glued with something, but my filter got there so tightly that I did not dare to pull it back out.

Well, now let's go to collect in the reverse order. We fasten the matrix.

Protective screen. And the panel that holds the LCD.

Well, everything else. Uf. Collected. We insert the CF and the battery with trembling handles. We include. Urraaaa. The camera beeps and asks to enter the time.

We look at the last frame taken by the camera in a normal state.

We shoot in the same frame in a new state. Uraaaaaaa. Happened. Now we see disgusting shades of pink and whitish foliage. Yes.

We bring the Kood R72 filter to the lens. Monochrome image, white foliage. Hooray. True infrared. Shutter speed 1/20 at ISO 50 indoors.

We bring B + W 092. Pseudo flowers, light foliage. Uraaa. Shutter speed 1/30 at ISO 50 indoors.

Well, the experiment went well, although it is still far from ideal. It is necessary to find out whether the thickness of the glass in the new filter is sufficient, whether it still needs to be glued, and, most importantly, wait for the adapter for filters on the Canon G5, because it is unsportsmanlike to shoot while holding the filter in front of the lens with your hand. Well, ideally, you need to find out if you can replace the built-in ND filter with something else. Ideally, an IR cut filter.

For those interested, I also publish a photo report about rework Canon 350D - removing the hot mirror and replacing it with plain glass. In general, everything matches the instructions from lifepixel.com. In general, compared to the rework of the Canon G5, the process is more painstaking, but apart from a small Phillips screwdriver, only a soldering iron is needed from the tools to remove the metal screen. No exotic hex screwdriver required.

If you write down the disassembly process on a piece of paper, then it's going to be assembled quite simply (even taking into account the fact that I hardly communicated with electronics, and the fine motor skills of the fingers are not very well developed).

Particular attention should be paid to disconnecting and connecting loops. Loops with a hole must be inserted all the way when connecting. When the camera was first assembled, pressing the shutter button immediately displayed “error 99”, which disappeared after thoroughly wiping the contacts of the cables with alcohol, but the built-in flash always fired when taking pictures. The problem disappeared after careful and careful reinsertion of the loops "all the way". I would like to thank stwhite from LiveJournal, who also redesigned his Canon 350D, for valuable advice in identifying the cause of the malfunction.

Since the thickness of the hot mirror was chosen randomly, when shooting at aperture with numbers below 6.3, the picture is blurred. Canon 50 / 1.4, Canon 16-35 / 2.8L and Tokina 12-24 performed very well in terms of image clarity. Canon 100-300, for some reason, mercilessly "lathers", the reason for this is being clarified.

The very leisurely process of disassembling with photographs of each step and keeping detailed notes took 45 minutes.

that I have some doubts.Maybe he will call the service, strike a number? It seems that whites will be delivered to the Russian market only by the end of the month.

Well, that's a sane idea. I will advise. If there are results, I will write.

But what I can say for sure: Nikonovskaya was given a guarantee for 2 years, the store is civil, there is an instruction in Russian (and this is not a copier!) That is, all indirect signs speak in favor of the fact that the camera is white.

What pleased us was the almost absence of back / front focus.

Bato wrote:

And "confuse" the filling in the carcasses for how long you can.

the camera is not disassembled when adjusting the focus.
Yeah, but at the same time they reflashed your serial and all that. Only in this case the number of frames will be dropped rather than increased.

But in general, this is a matter of jurisdiction, and it is easy to establish the identity of the perpetrator. Hardly anyone would want such a gimor. And there is no reason for them to do this. If they need serviceable spare parts, they simply take cameras with supposedly malfunctions and send spare parts from the factory. And they themselves do not change anything, because it turns out that there are no problems. Spare parts remain. Well, etc.
I think they told you the truth.
In general, their words look believable.

This is true about the counter. To restore is elementary - we take in the menu, set to zero each time and insert an empty card. We take a couple of pictures - they are numbered as IMG_0001, 0002, etc. after that, through the computer, change the number to 0800 or any other desired one. Again we turn on the sequential numbering in the menu. Everything. The pictures will continue to be numbered.

Energo wrote:

The 350D is not a competitor to the 20D. This is a 100% hobbyist plastic camera with “stripped down” functionality and so on compared to the 20D

Yes, 20 is more pleasant in all respects

Bato wrote:

Acquired 350d. On the test table - back focus.

and where to get this test table? recently bought 350d. I want to check kit optics and compare with other lenses, tk. I misunderstood what is the reason for the back (front) focus in this model in the body or in the lens (my automatic machine sometimes smears on all optics (I typed different things from friends to see if everything is true from film boots, maybe this is the problem?), or maybe just hands do not grow from there?)

p.s. do not hit hard if the question is stupid

_SERG_ wrote:

According to insider information, the main difference between 20 and 350 is the shutter life. At 350 it's 40-50,000, and at 20 it's 100,000. The rest is lyrics.

I do not think that such things as an AF system with increased accuracy for f2.8 or less, ISO 3200, a larger internal buffer, 5 frames / sec, 30% less lag, one and a half times more powerful battery, 17 user settings instead of 9 and etc. for some users will refer to "lyrics".

Of course, the picture quality is in no way inferior, but as a tool, 20D has advantages.

_SERG_ wrote:

I agree. But these additions, IMHO, do not justify the difference in price for a simple user. Again, why are 17 settings? Are you going to change them constantly during the shooting? And you will clearly remember how the 8th setting differs from the 14th? Or will you regularly shoot more than 500 frames a day? If yes, then you are a professional who earns money from this, and then Mark is probably needed.
Canon was clearly cautious about the buffer - I work out 30-35 frames with a machine gun on the maximum japeg. Then, of course, slower.

Unfortunately, “cutting down the functions” of any apparatus leads to the fact that, instead of thinking about the frame, a lot of energy and effort is spent on “bypassing” the apparatus's limits.

We are simply being deceived. Take the 300D for example. What is this

it was necessary to bind the method of focusing and metering to different modes? This is for a beginner, or what? Doesn't he have the right to choose them arbitrarily?

Definitely, the smarter the device, the easier it is to use. That's all. It doesn't matter if it's a beginner or a pro. And the whole trouble is that only for solid money can a person be given such a benefit as 100% attention to a photograph. And whoever has no money, let him buy “cut down” and suffer. This is the concept of manufacturers.

I don't see the difference between 350D and 20D financially justified, today I would take the first and extra money - for optics, but when I bought 20D after 300D it was not yet on the market.

I first bought 300 myself. Then I barely managed to sell it! With the release of 350, prices for BU 300 dropped by about 35%.
And 20 is unjustifiably expensive in relation to 350. My 2 friends have 20s. One shoots for the soul, and the second for money - weddings, anniversaries, etc. He has it as a backup, and Mark works first. He has the same opinion - 350 + glass instead of 20-ki. The first one in exactly the same situation as you - bought when 350 was not in nature. The opinion is absolutely the same!

I posted a small comparison on the network, or rather a small part of a large comparison 🙂 of the following lenses:

1. Canon EF-S 18-55 F / 3.5-5.6 (KIT)
2. Canon EF 28-105 F / 3.5-4.5.
3. Canon EF-S 17-85 F / 4-5.6 IS USM.
4. Canon EF 17-40 F / 4L USM.

Thanks for the detailed description! I just finished the renovation. Everything worked out, autofocus worked again. I want to add a few practical comments about the rake that I had to face:

1. BEFORE pulling out the battery, open the flash. It opens only electronically, and when closed, it prevents the front cover from being removed. I had to partially assemble it back and open it.

2. Probably in my childhood I had not only a cube, but also a Rubik's tetrahedron) It is not necessary to unsolder the flash train. If the board is pulled out of its place a little at an angle, it comes out. The train will be slightly stretched, but it is clearly far from the rupture.

3. It is best to drill a hole for a nail with a two-piece syringe. There is a thin bending needle that allows you to drill a hole normal to the plane of the body. A conventional drill gets in the way of the chassis. The hole is angled and may come out in the wrong place. The needle is sharp enough and goes through the plastic in just half a minute.

The table shows approximate prices, excluding the cost of components. You can clarify the cost and timing of the repair Canon EOS 350D, as well as get expert advice by calling us by phone +74999900741 or by asking a question here. The final cost is determined for each specific camera in the process of detailed diagnostics, depending on the type of malfunction and prices for components.

Hello, say you have a lens on Canon Digital IXUS 860 S.

Canon S3 IS stopped turning on after accidentally being energized.

Hello. Fuji s2500HD board and display need replacement. Tell me the cost. ...

Photos began to turn out almost black, with a flash dark, even in the morning I was shooting everything was OK, now I'm trying to take a picture - one blackness, I didn't change the settings, I just try to click on the machine, even put another lens on the same thing anyway, what could it be? to the service?

ZY I am a kettle

maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Edited by Bablugan (12:30 12/27/2007)

Could accidentally "drive" the exposure compensation to minus.
Although, I don’t remember if the automatic exposure compensation works.

At least once in our life, each of us breaks down a complex digital technique. So my family camera Canon A 460 has failed, and as always, at the most inopportune moment. The camera, of course, is not new, it was bought in 2008. All this time he served faithfully, never let down. Of course, it is outdated morally. Modern point-and-shoot cameras boast tens of megapixels and multiple optical zoom. But Canon A 460 suits me perfectly, takes good pictures, is able to perform acceptable macro photography.

In general, the malfunction manifested itself at one point, the photos began to turn out very white, as if canon a 460 flashing photo... And what is characteristic, horizontal stripes are visible. Here are some bad photos:

But the video was filmed, as before, without changes. I immediately noticed that at the moment the shutter button was pressed, there was no characteristic sound of the shutter curtains.

If you are faced with a similar malfunction, do not be upset, most likely it is to blame shutter train... We'll have to replace it with a new one - this is a typical malfunction. Although, to be honest, this activity is not for the faint of heart.

To get to the bowels of the lens, you need to disassemble the entire camera, which has small parts. In addition, we are dealing with optics that do not like dust. Therefore, you have to acquire patience and self-control.

Of course, you can buy a new lens and replace it entirely. But I could not find it cheaper than 800 rubles, although the shutter train is not so cheap, around 160 rubles. In general, I decided to replace the cable. I photographed the procedure for disassembling the camera on my phone, I apologize for the quality of the photos.

First, let's take out two AA batteries. Then we take out a three-volt battery, which is responsible for memory. We unscrew 5 bolts and do not forget about the sixth one, which is located under the protective plug of the USB connector:

Immediately after the cover is removed and access to the main board appears, you need to discharge the flash capacitor.

To discharge the capacitor, we use a low-power load, for example, a light bulb that we unscrew from the refrigerator:

Then we unsolder the wires to separate the board from the case:

We will carry out further disassembly of the Canon camera, based on the photographs that I found on the vastness of the worldwide network. True, I slightly simplified the disassembly, excluding the removal of the matrix, and also refused to dismantle the main tube from the lens.

The new shutter train looks like this:

We assemble the camera in the reverse order and preferably on the same day, so as not to forget anything. When assembling the lens, I would like to draw your attention to the moment when we will attach the optical video finder. It consists of four lenses, two of which are movable and they must move synchronously with the retractable tube.

It will not be possible to simply screw the video finder into place, because the movable lenses are in the initial position and are held by springs, so the lenses do not fall into the guide grooves on the tube. How can we get out of this difficult situation.

Some experts advise extending the lens. I did it easier. I just removed the metal cover from the video finder, which is held on by the latches:

Then we try to put it in place, while simultaneously moving each movable lens, trying to get into the guide groove of the tube. After we succeed, close the lid:

Next, you should definitely make sure that the assembled lens is working properly. For this we will use one finger-type battery. By changing the polarity on the motor, we make sure that the lens moves out completely, moves without delay, we observe the closing of the protective shutters, we check the operability of the video finder:

If everything works fine, then I congratulate you, you have overcome the most difficult lens assembly operation. It remains to put the camera together.

This is how a broken camera shutter train looks like:

Hope this article helped with your DIY repair and you didn't have to look for a workshop to get your Canon A 460 repaired.

One of these days I got hold of one remarkable device. Canon 350D. He is notable for me because he was my first DSLR. And although since then I managed to shoot a dozen of different kinds of DSLRs, among which there were cameras from the younger Canon and Nikon series to the flagships, I still appreciate the attitude to the first one as “warm”. In fact, until now I have no complaints as such about the “three hundred and fifty” - all the functions that I use at the moment were presented in it and worked perfectly.