Do-it-yourself bork kettle repair

Electric kettles tend to break down over time. And when this happens, according to statistics, 30% of people take them to a specialized center for repairs, 55% throw them away and replace the old kettle with a new one. And only 15% of the total are trying to repair the electric kettle with their own hands.

And for the most part, people who decide to carry out repairs on their own are asking the question "how to repair an electric kettle at home." The answer to this question is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, but we will try to summarize it in the following sentences.

The principle by which the electric kettle works is simple. In order to warm up the water, it uses an electric heating element installed inside - at the bottom of the device. Such an element can have different shapes. But, as a rule, it is attached to the case using threaded bushings and metal screws that firmly press it against the waterproof seals.

The watertight seals of the kettle have different shapes. For example, they can be presented in the form of a washer, a spacer, or, conversely, have the form of a sleeve. It is because of them that leaks often occur. In the event of a breakdown of this type of seal, the repair of the electric kettle is quite simple, it is necessary to replace it.

The operation of an electric kettle is based on the principle of heating water, at the moment of reproduction of which steam is formed, which comes out through special holes or pipes to a biometric plate or to a disk. Its movement depends on how the electric kettle works. After steam enters the biometric plates, the kettle turns off automatically.

Video (click to play).

Note that every modern model of electric kettles has a special protective element. It turns off the household device at the moment when water boils or when there is no water. The presence of a protective element reduces the risk of accidents, such as the risk of accidental fire.

Earlier, many people, forgetting to pour water into a classic kettle, turned it on. It is this kind of forgetfulness that has become the cause of a fairly large number of accidents. This, in turn, led manufacturers of electrical devices to develop a modern security system - to create a function to automatically turn off the kettle when the water available in it is heated. There is no water - the kettle will not turn on.

Before proceeding with the procedure for disassembling the electric kettle, we need to check the most obvious things:

1. Whether the plug is unplugged from the outlet, and whether the buttons on the electric kettle are turned on;
2. The connector, which is responsible for powering the kettle with electricity, does not twitch. If it jerks from side to side, perhaps this is the cause of the malfunction;
3. Is the kettle in the correct position, is it on or off the base. It is possible, but in rare cases, and it happens only with old models of cordless teapots.

We checked the most obvious things with you, and it became clear to us that the inoperative state of the kettle was not caused by them. For this reason, we must begin to disassemble it, and further identify the reasons that led to its inoperability.

1. Remove the lid of the kettle base;
2. Next, we unscrew all the screws that belong to the fasteners and are located at the base of the teapot handle, as well as in its upper part;
3. Carefully separate the handle from the tea jug, as if from the teapot;
4. After that, we need to get rid of the plastic rocker, which is an important component of both modern and old models of electric kettles;
5. We remove all plastic parts, basically we get rid of interfering parts - these are various components of the kettle that are attached to one or another of its elements;
6. We raise the kettle switch;
7. After that, we need to carefully examine the state of the bimetallic plate, checking it for visible defects. If there are none, then the reason that led to the inoperability of the kettle lies elsewhere.

The reason an electric kettle can slowly heat up water is because there are thick layers of scale on its heating element. To remove thick layers of scale, we have to buy a cleaning agent, the main purpose of using which is its basic properties, allowing us to deal with the layers of scale accumulated in it. After purchasing a cleaning agent, we need to read the instructions on its packaging.

It must be remembered that the principle of using one or another type of cleaning agent can be very different for the reason that manufacturers of such cleaning agents use components and additives of different composition.

The most obvious reason the device might not turn off is a poorly closed lid. If your lid is well closed, then the reason your kettle won't turn off is because the steam opening is blocked.

Yes, blockage is not a common problem, but it does occur. The fact is that the hole can be clogged with lime deposits, which prevent the steam from being redirected to the bimetallic plates.

It happens that the switch of an electric kettle becomes inoperative. This problem may be due to the fact that the circuit breaker is blocked from the side of the bimetallic plate. The plate may simply be damaged, or the pusher responsible for the switch is stuck.

The switch cannot be replaced by yourself. If the problem of the inoperability of the electric kettle lies in the breakdown of its switch, you will have to contact a specialized company.

In some cases, when a switch gets stuck, it must be removed and checked for integrity. This is done simply, but there is one only problem in performing this task, which lies in finding the switch. If it is on the handle of an electric kettle, then it will not be difficult to detect and remove it, but if in some other place, then difficulties may arise.

The main thing is to correctly unscrew all the bolts and remove the parts that are located at the location of the switch. In general, in most cases, first you will have to remove the handle and lid of the electric kettle - this will facilitate the task of studying the problem that is associated with its inoperability.

This problem is not uncommon, it occurs with every third electric kettle. That is understandable, electric kettles simply cannot withstand constant work for a long time, some kind of, but their part will weaken.

Repairing an electric kettle is simple - everyone can handle it. Inside there is a spiral, rolled into the bottom, which controls the thermostat with a button. The structure is powered by a voltage of 230 volts, protected against overheating by a thermal fuse. More often wire - you have to change. Cheap models are devoid of the intricacies of protection.

Repairing an electric kettle with your own hands sometimes becomes an interesting activity, especially if the lid plus the handle is cast, you cannot undock it from the electric kettle. Cause: The screws are under the edge of the door. Reluctantly think how the Chinese managed to collect the miracle of technology.

Guangdong products are well-known.China is rich in economic and other interesting areas that provide tax and some other concessions to manufacturers. The United States is not enthusiastic about the conflict with the heirs of communism, whom Nietzsche predicted the fate of a couple of centuries ago. Today we will see how to repair an electric kettle in China, made according to a standard design for a company that does not seek to reveal its true origin, with a probability of 95% being a representative of Eastern Europe, MB, Russian Federation. Let's see what our compatriots indulge in - the best examples of world household appliances pass the hands of the Guangdong workers.

China's GDP ranks second. Japan is the third. Not bad, considering the state of the Land of the Rising Sun, which survived the Second World War. Feudal Japan became the world's largest electronics manufacturer.

Below are photos that allow you to personally enjoy the views of the details of the simplest design. There will be links to the images in the text. If you want - look, you don't want to - scroll blindly. Disassembly begins with a lid. Skipping a step will not remove the side panel that hides the LED plus on / off switch. With the side panel on, it is more difficult to remove the bottom. Dilemma. Do the opposite, if you are looking for difficulties, then you can not remove the cover at all!

Lid. It is held by two ears with two pins. A plastic monolith, you are tortured to disassemble, installation is more difficult. The first photo shows the pins perfectly. There are two screws on the sides, unscrew immediately, remove the side panel. Everything is neat inside - plus models, we often find a whole mess of wires. We pass to the bottom.

There are three screws around the connector where the grounding lug is provided (the structure hangs in the air). We unscrew, we are convinced: the bottom hesitates to remove. There are six plastic teeth along the perimeter that fit into the six holes in the body. So that it does not accidentally fall apart, worn out by exploitation, there is a guide on the sides of each tooth. Alternately, the teeth will have to be snapped off with a screwdriver separately (see the photo below), if you break it, you will break the bottom by removing it. We took a picture of each tooth to illustrate what was said. We put the dismantled parts aside, look at the switch.

The photo shows from the bottom position. Shiny circle with a cut - mechanical sensor. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, seizing the moment, the electric kettle turns off. The water boils, an increased amount of steam begins to be released. There is a small hole in the housing located under the switch, covered with a circular loose plastic plug (see photo). The plate is installed above the gate of the couple. Boiling begins, the temperature rises sharply. After a moment, a click can be heard. The tongue of the plate, made up of a pair of metals, bends up sharply. It looks like a bimetallic relay.

Now the switch. Not so easy. The part is devoid of visible joints, except for the metal bracket shown in the photo on the side. The upper movable part is attached to it. When we turn on the kettle, the switch nose rests against the tongue of the round plate with a cutout, the bracket is compressed. Due to the design, the parts retain their initial position indefinitely. Click! The slightest jerk releases the bracket, which returns the switch to its original position.

Let's examine the bottom of the case. Here are:

• circular connector;
• rolled spiral;
• LED divider resistor with a nominal value of 14 kOhm.

While the switch is dormant, the LED glows blue. Full 230 volts applied. The photo shows available: the resistor was burnt, the contacts were inserted into the clamping terminals, one could not stand the inspection. I had to solder it. The divider resistor is connected in parallel with the rolled heater. The electric kettle turns on - the glow changes to orange. Dual LED (did the school teachers keep it quiet?), Unlike typical use, both shades work simultaneously while the water is boiling. The combination of electromagnetic waves of different shades gives orange.It is difficult to enumerate the shades that form a superposition (the repairman is deeply indifferent).

Remove the resistor, or it will burn out - nothing bad will happen. It's just that the LED will stop changing its hue, tracking changes in the switch position. The color is irrespective of the water temperature. It is easy to see that there is no thermal fuse. We believe that there is simply no protection. Those interested can equip a metal case with a part, next to the ring connector. Provide protection against empty switching. This kettle can cause fire without protection. We recommend adding a thermal fuse to the device. Place not somewhere in the center, around the perimeter of the heating element, increasing the reliability.

The resistance of the heating element is 30 ohms. The photo shows the power values ​​on a metal surface through a fraction of 220 and 240 V. Enough to understand what can break. The device of an electric kettle is simple, repairs will even pull a kettle, but ... It was easy to remove the lid, but put it back! We hope the readers will solve the issue on their own, we find it difficult to answer. But we will show you how to disassemble the switch for those who want to clean the contacts. The distance of the gap is scanty, steam is in the air. Just look at the two screws in the picture: they are covered with rust, although the electric kettle has not been properly used.

We believe that six months later, the contacts will need to be refreshed. Let's analyze the switch:

1. Place your finger on the plastic ear that secures the switch to the case.
2. Use your thumb to push the button on the opposite side.
3. Gently squeeze your fingers, the retaining bracket will pop out. Protect more than the apple of your eye, otherwise the electric kettle will only have to be thrown away.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Hook the bracket with the front of the button, rest it against the base, gently push the part into place without any extra effort. The bimetallic plate can be easily removed with a knife or screwdriver. Self-repair of electric kettles consists of such trifles, otherwise it will not take long to break the lid by putting it on! Contacts are made of bronze, can be seen in the photo. It is impossible to clean with alcohol, gasoline, there is plastic nearby. We suppose we'll have to get hold of acetic acid, the switch is waiting in line.

We'll have to disconnect the terminals. The Saturn model in question is not easy. The photo shows a small hole in the terminal, which corresponds to the spike of the second half. If you press there with an awl, the connection can be disassembled without problems. Otherwise ... I can't tear one from the other. The process is aggravated: the joints are protected by a heat-shrinkable cambric, which is poorly heated by a hairdryer. It crumbles easily, barely holds, but ... does not come off. Therefore, if necessary, cut, disassemble the unit. The clamping terminals are disposable. The wire of the resistor jumped out, it was not possible to squeeze it back, it is not convenient. I had to solder it.

Weld the plastic with a soldering iron. Along the way, using the necessary additives (polyethylene). Choose a material that is compatible with the food industry. Use heat-resistant glue, harmless to humans.