In detail: do-it-yourself siemens porsche design kettle repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Service centers and repair workshops for kettles SIEMENS
Moscow, st. Bolshie Kamenshiki, 6 to look on the map
The service center repairs almost any device that has electricity! Mobile and small household appliances and electronics. Free diagnostics in any case, even if you are about ...
Optional: delivery of a kettle to / from the service center
Moscow, Kashirskoe shosse, 26, building 3 see the map
Around the clock: +7 (985) 9915852
Repair of kettles, microwave ovens, coffee machines, air grills, multicooker, bread makers, juicers, meat grinders, coffee grinders
The service center will carry out a quick and high-quality repair of digital and household appliances. As well as repair of power tools. Our workshop has been operating for over 10 years. We are engaged in the repair of equipment of all ...
Additionally: delivery of the kettle to / from the service center, on-site repair of the kettle at home or in the office
Moscow, Novocherkasskiy boulevard, 47 view on the map
High-quality repair of refrigerators, washing machines, dishwashers, microwave ovens, TVs, water heaters, gas stoves, electric stoves, coffee machines, coolers, hobs, ovens, etc.
Additionally: delivery of a kettle to / from a service center, on-site repair of a kettle at home or in an office, replacement of consumables, installation of a kettle (connection, setup), sale of spare parts
Moscow, st. Rusakovskaya, 7, building 1 look on the map
Warranty and post-warranty repair of small household appliances Repair and cleaning of coffee machines Sale of accessories for imported household appliances ...
Moscow, 3rd proezd Perov Fields, house 8, building 10, sign Service center. see on the map
Around the clock: +7 (966) 344-33-44
Repair of kettles, microwave ovens, coffee machines, air grills, multicooker, bread makers, juicers, meat grinders
90 days warranty. If another service center could not help you, then come to us. We restore equipment after other services. Service center in Perovo D ...
Warranty and post-warranty repairs of large household appliances Warranty and post-warranty repairs of small household appliances Repair and cleaning of coffee machines Installation of household appliances ...
Moscow, st. Bratislavskaya, 8 show on the map
Phone: +7 (495) 5177548, +7 (495) 3479853
Repair of kitchen equipment: kettles, microwave ovens, coffee machines, air grills, multicooker, bread makers, juicers, meat grinders
Workshop "MASTER-TV" has been working in the areas of repair of household appliances, repair of TV-audio-video electronics since 2003. Both repairs are carried out in the conditions of our stationary workshop and repairs ...
Additionally: delivery of a kettle to / from a service center, on-site repair of a kettle at home or in an office, replacement of consumables, installation of a kettle (connection, setup)
Moscow, st. Oleko Dundycha, 21, bldg. 2 view on the map
Our service center is: - 7 days a week of continuous work (10.00 - 20.00) - Hundreds of grateful customers - Free diagnostics * (* - really free diagnostics) - ...
Additionally: delivery of a kettle to / from the service center, installation of a kettle (connection, setting)
Moscow, Altufevskoe highway, 84 Pav. 39 show on map
Additionally: replacement of consumables, sale of spare parts
- delivery of a Siemens kettle for repair by the service center
- field repair of the Siemens kettle at home or in the office
- service of replacement of consumables
- services for the installation and configuration of equipment
- sale of spare parts for the repair of the Siemens kettle.
Repair prices start at 300 rubles. And the most expensive repairs will cost you 1000 rubles (the kettle does not boil and the repair is turned off). According to the portal> the average cost of repairing a kettle in 2018 is 600 rubles. At the same time, as practice shows, the services of service centers in the city center are somewhat more expensive. Please note that the cost of repairs depends on the model of the kettle, age (degree of wear and tear) and the required spare parts for repair. The exact cost of the repair can be determined only after the diagnostics by the master of the service center. Urgent repairs tend to be more expensive. If you need repairs at home or in the office, pay attention to the presence of the master's departure icon
.
To install or configure the purchased equipment, you can use the services of specialists from authorized organizations (authorized service center) who will carry out all the necessary work for the further operation of the kettle. The addresses of all service centers on the map of Moscow are given at the top of the page. If there is no service center at the indicated address or is located at a different address, please let us know.
Message ELEremont »10 Nov 2010 09:46
Message Smate »10 Nov 2010 17:25
Message ELEremont »10 Nov 2010 21:32
Message Kursk »27 Nov 2010 13:04
Message Smate »27 Nov 2010 21:48
Message vingod »19 Aug 2011 11:47
Message vingod »19 Aug 2011 12:09
Message vingod »21 Aug 2011 12:24
Message pansof »21 Nov 2011 13:59
Maybe someone will come in handy (the power button was pressed badly). Disassembly diagram of the Siemens TW 91100 kettle: 1. First, the overhead handle has latches on the side, and at the top there is a large latch that can be broken, so you need to start from the bottom up and pull up at the last moment. 2. Then the top panel with buttons. It is better to start from the inside, where the latches are small. Outside, there are two large buttons in the area of \ u200b \ u200b (they are easy to break), you need to move the panel to the center to disengage them. There are also protrusions at the ends of the panel, they can also be broken, the panel is removed towards the handle, without lifting it up much.
Himself, of course, broke several
.
Message BDV »01 Dec 2017 11:09
Message transfor »01 Dec 2017 11:32
Message BDV "01 Dec 2017 15:10
I talked. Strictly.
Even the hammer showed. Did not help.
Message transfor "01 Dec 2017 17:39
The electric kettle has become an indispensable attribute of any kitchen and is the bestseller in comparison with other household appliances. This device is widely used both at home, in the kitchen and in the office. But unfortunately, like any electrical appliance, the kettle breaks down after a while. Since the price of this water heater is not too high, it is easier to buy a new one than to repair it. But if you consider yourself a home craftsman, or an apparatus for boiling water is dear to you as a memory, you can try to repair the electric kettle with your own hands.
An electric kettle works on a fairly simple principle, regardless of whether it is an expensive model or a budget one.At the bottom of the device there is a heating element connected to a thermostat, consisting of bimetallic plate... A tubular heater, when an electric current is applied to it, heats the liquid to a boil. When steam is formed during the boiling process, it passes through a special channel to the thermostat, as a result of which the latter turns off the power supply.
If you look at the operation diagram of the device, you will notice that it works on the principle of an iron, and does not differ in the complexity of its design. But before you repair the electric kettle, there are always difficulties when disassembling the case, since the latches (holding the handle) are located differently for different models of units, in addition, the fastening screws can be with a head for a special screwdriver.
An electric kettle is a simple device that contains few elements that can fail. But still, there are common problems, among which the following can be distinguished:
slow heating of the liquid;
the device shuts down prematurely;
the kettle does not turn off;
the device does not turn on;
burnout of the heating element;
water leaks from the housing.
If you notice that the kettle does not heat up the water quickly, then pay attention to the condition of the heating element. Thick layer of limescale on it, formed due to insufficiently good maintenance of the unit, has poor thermal conductivity, which is why it takes more time to heat the water. If the scale is not removed, the heating element may burn out.
In addition, the entire contact group of the device suffers from overheating, as a result of which the contacts melt or burn out.
To get rid of limescale, you can use a regular citric acidsold in stores. It is enough to pour 1-2 bags of citric acid (20 grams each) into the tank, bring it to a boil and leave the heated solution in the container for 30 minutes. After that, the container must be thoroughly rinsed with running water to remove scale residues. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.
This behavior of an electric water heater is explained by the fact that the device may turn off due to scale formed on the heating element. Since the heating element has a fuse against overheating, it works and breaks the electrical network. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to descale the heaters.
During the boiling of water in the vessel of the apparatus, the steam must be collected under the lid and directed through a special channel to the thermostat. If the lid is not closed tightly, then this does not happen, and the electrical appliance will work without shutting down. If everything is in order with the lid, check that the steam hole on the side of the handle is not clogged with limescale. In the case when everything is in order with the hole, it can be assumed that the kettle does not turn off due to breakdown of the thermostat.
The thermostat at the electric kettle is located at the bottom of the case, and in order to get to it for replacement, you will have to disassemble the device completely.
As an example, a conventional budget device was taken, which does not differ in design from more expensive models - an electric kettle Vitek, Tefal, Polaris, Scarlett and others. By the way, in this model, as in the Vitek VT-7009 (TR), the container is made of heat resistant glass... So, let's analyze the unit according to the following algorithm.
Repairing a kettle should start with disconnecting it from the mains... Next, remove the device from the stand (base) and unscrew all the screws on its bottom panel.
After that, it is necessary to pry off the plastic cover on the handle with special care using a thin screwdriver. This should be done carefully because in different models of devices the latches can be located in different places, and it is easy to break them.
Removing the trim reveals the mounting screws. They also need to be removed.
After unscrewing all fasteners, using light force, detach the handle with the cover from the body.
Next, detach the housing from the bottom of the unit.
At the bottom of the case, you will see all the main elements of the device: contact group, thermal relay and heating element.
pay attention to bimetallic plate (on the right in the figure). If damage is visible on it or it looks worn out, then this may be the reason that the electrical appliance has stopped turning off. The plate is not repaired, but replaced with a new one.
But how to disassemble a Bosch kettle if, when you unscrew all the screws on the bottom, it cannot be removed? Those who disassembled such a device faced difficulties, which often ended in a breakdown of the device. Since the process is quite complicated to describe, it is better to watch a video on this topic.
There are various reasons why your boil machine will not turn on.
Faulty electrical cord and plug... To do this, you need to “ring out” the cord with the tester, touching the probes to the contacts of the plug and the contacts on the base (base). If a break is found, replace the cord with a new one.
Poor contact in the stand (base). From prolonged work, the contacts can burn, due to which their conductivity is disturbed. If fumes have formed on the contacts, they can be cleaned using fine sandpaper. But in the case when they have melted, they will need to be completely replaced.
Internal switch defective in the device. Since the switch has to experience quite large loads (from 1500 to 2000 W), its contacts can melt over time. This may cause the device to not work. The switch is located at the bottom of the handle, and in case of malfunction it looks as shown in the figure below.
In this case, the button must be replaced. But there is a malfunction of the button, in which you can fix the kettle with your own hands without replacing it. If you look at the button from the side, you can see 2 contacts, which in the “on” position close. If on them carbon deposits form, the device will not turn on.
To remove carbon deposits, you can use fine sandpaper, a nail file, or a thin file. To make it more convenient to do the stripping, you will need a small "revision" of the button, namely, removing the sides with a pair of nippers.
Another reason that the device does not want to work can be called malfunction of the mechanical power button... This breakdown is most often found in the Tefal vitesse model, since plastic slats are built into the handle of the electrical appliance, which transmit the translational movement from the outer button to the inner one located at the bottom of the unit.
After this part breaks, it becomes impossible to turn on the Tefal kettle. To understand in more detail how to repair an item that has broken, you can watch a video that describes one original way to fix a defect.
When repairing electric kettles, both old and newer, the most common breakdown is heating element burnout. The problem with heating elements arises, first of all, due to their overheating due to untimely descaling.
Before you repair a kettle with a disc heater or a heating element in the form of a spiral, it is necessary to disassemble the unit as described above. After that, take a tester and connect the test leads of the device to the output contacts of the heater. If the light on the device lights up, or it emits a sound, then the heating element can be considered serviceable.
How to check the heating element if no measuring device? It turns out to be very simple. It is necessary to connect zero from the mains to one contact of the heater, and a phase to the other. Next, insert a 220 light bulb into the socket, from which 2 insulated wires are taken out. Touch one stripped end of the wire to one contact of the heater and the other to the opposite. If the light is on, then the heating element is working properly.
If it turns out that the disc heater has burned out, then it cannot be replaced, since it is one piece with the bottom of the electrical appliance, such as in the Scarlett kettle, or Vitek VT-7009 (TR). Therefore, you will have to buy a new unit. Only open-type heating elements can be replaced.
If you notice that water is flowing (leaking) from the reservoir of the device, then it is recommended to use such a device for a while, until scale forms in the microcracks, which can block the seepage of liquid.If this does not help, then you will have to buy a new "boiler" if the warranty period has expired.
Another reason that the reservoir is leaking may be loose connection of the electric heater with the device body (if the heating element is open). In this case, you can tighten the fasteners holding it. If this does not help, then you will have to remove the heating element and change the rubber gasket, which is worn out.
Thus, we can summarize: in some cases it is quite possible to repair the unit for boiling water on our own. But if you do not have enough certain skills in the repair of household appliances, then the best option would be to buy a new kettle. Repair in a service center, from a financial point of view, does not justify itself, and there is no guarantee that the breakdown will not happen again.
Moscow, 3rd avenue Perov Fields, 8s10
Repair of electric kettles, thermo pots, car radios, acoustic systems, karaoke, turntables.
Manufacturers: Siemens, Acer, AEG, AGAiT, Air Comfort, Akai.
+ 7 (495) 565-31-65 (multichannel)
+7 (495) 565-31-64 (multichannel)
Novogireevo
Perovo
Highway Enthusiasts
Moscow, Ryazansky prospect, 77 (Entrance from the 4th Veshnyakovsky prospect, Workshop sign, go down to the ground floor)
Repair of electric kettles, thermo pots, aero grills, blenders, crepe makers, hobs, fans.
The organization was checked by the administration of the portal and provided documents officially confirming the conduct of these activities, as well as the reception of citizens or the presence of a workshop at the specified address.
Electric kettles tend to break down over time. And when this happens, according to statistics, 30% of people take them to a specialized center for repairs, 55% throw them away and replace the old kettle with a new one. And only 15% of the total are trying to repair the electric kettle with their own hands.
And for the most part, people who decide to carry out repairs on their own are asking the question "how to repair an electric kettle at home." The answer to this question is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, but we will try to summarize it in the following sentences.
The principle by which the electric kettle works is simple. In order to warm up the water, it uses an electric heating element installed inside - at the bottom of the device. Such an element can have different shapes. But, as a rule, it is attached to the case using threaded bushings and metal screws that firmly press it against the waterproof seals.
The watertight seals of the kettle have different shapes. For example, they can be presented in the form of a washer, a spacer, or, conversely, have the form of a sleeve. It is because of them that leaks often occur. In the event of a breakdown of this type of seal, the repair of the electric kettle is quite simple, it is necessary to replace it.
The operation of an electric kettle is based on the principle of heating water, at the moment of reproduction of which steam is formed, which comes out through special holes or pipes to a biometric plate or to a disk. Its movement depends on how the electric kettle works. After steam enters the biometric plates, the kettle turns off automatically.
Note that every modern model of electric kettles has a special protective element. It turns off the household device at the moment when water boils or when there is no water. The presence of a protective element reduces the risk of accidents, such as the risk of accidental fire.
Earlier, many people, forgetting to pour water into a classic kettle, turned it on. It is this kind of forgetfulness that has become the cause of a fairly large number of accidents. This, in turn, led manufacturers of electrical devices to develop a modern security system - to create a function to automatically turn off the kettle when the water available in it is heated. There is no water - the kettle will not turn on.
Before proceeding with the procedure for disassembling the electric kettle, we need to check the most obvious things:
Whether the plug is unplugged from the outlet, and whether the buttons on the electric kettle are turned on;
The connector, which is responsible for powering the kettle with electricity, does not twitch. If it jerks from side to side, perhaps this is the cause of the malfunction;
Is the kettle in the correct position, is it on or off the base. It is possible, but in rare cases, and it happens only with old models of cordless teapots.
We checked the most obvious things with you, and it became clear to us that the inoperative state of the kettle was not caused by them. For this reason, we must begin to disassemble it, and further identify the reasons that led to its inoperability.
Remove the lid of the kettle base;
Next, we unscrew all the screws that belong to the fasteners and are located at the base of the teapot handle, as well as in its upper part;
Carefully separate the handle from the tea jug, as if from the teapot;
After that, we need to get rid of the plastic rocker, which is an important component of both modern and old models of electric kettles;
We remove all plastic parts, basically we get rid of interfering parts - these are various components of the kettle that are attached to one or another of its elements;
We raise the kettle switch;
After that, we need to carefully examine the state of the bimetallic plate, checking it for visible defects. If there are none, then the reason that led to the inoperability of the kettle lies elsewhere.
The reason an electric kettle can slowly heat up water is because there are thick layers of scale on its heating element. To remove thick layers of limescale, we have to buy a cleaning agent, the main purpose of using which is its basic properties,allowing you to fight the layers of scale accumulated in it. After purchasing a cleaning agent, we need to read the instructions on its packaging.
It must be remembered that the principle of using one or another type of cleaning agent can be very different for the reason that manufacturers of such cleaning agents use components and additives of different composition.
The most obvious reason the device might not turn off is a poorly closed lid. If your lid is well closed, then the reason your kettle won't turn off is because the steam opening is blocked.
Yes, blockage is not a common problem, but it does occur. The fact is that the hole can be clogged with lime deposits, which prevent the steam from being redirected to the bimetallic plates.
It happens that the switch of an electric kettle becomes inoperative. This problem may be due to the fact that the circuit breaker is blocked from the side of the bimetallic plate. The plate may simply be damaged, or the pusher responsible for the switch is stuck.
The switch cannot be replaced by yourself. If the problem of the inoperability of the electric kettle lies in the breakdown of its switch, you will have to contact a specialized company.
In some cases, when a switch gets stuck, it must be removed and checked for integrity. This is done simply, but there is one only problem in performing this task, which lies in finding the switch. If it is on the handle of an electric kettle, then it will not be difficult to detect and remove it, but if in some other place, then difficulties may arise.
The main thing is to correctly unscrew all the bolts and remove the parts that are located at the location of the switch. In general, in most cases, first you will have to remove the handle and lid of the electric kettle - this will facilitate the task of studying the problem that is associated with its inoperability.
This problem is not uncommon, it occurs with every third electric kettle. That is understandable, electric kettles simply cannot withstand constant work for a long time, some kind of, but their part will weaken.
Household appliances for cooking are widely used by mankind and the leader of them, perhaps, is the electric kettle. Today it is difficult to find an apartment or office where there is no electrical appliance for heating water to a boil. But the service life of any electrical appliance is not eternal and there comes a moment when you turn on the electric kettle, and the water does not heat up.
But do not get upset prematurely and run to the store for a new electric kettle, first you should try to repair it yourself. An electric kettle is one of the simplest household electrical appliances, and in many cases it is quite easy to repair it yourself, even without the skills of an electrical engineer, as the repair technology below will convince you.
To repair an electric kettle with your own hands with knowledge of the matter, you need to familiarize yourself with the principle of its operation. It is easy to do with the electrical diagram. Although there are many models of kettles, they are all assembled according to the same electrical diagram, regardless of their appearance and capacity. There are some differences in the circuits, for example, the presence of a timer, but the basis of the electric kettle circuit is still preserved, and it is surprisingly simple, no more complicated than an electric heater circuit.
The electric kettle works as follows. Through an electric plug, the mains voltage is supplied with a flexible cord to the XP1 contacts of the stand, on which the electric kettle is installed when the water is heated. At the base of the kettle there are reciprocal contacts, which, when placed on the base, are connected to the contacts on the base.Further, the current passes through the thermal switch S1, which is turned on using the key on the kettle and turns off automatically when the water boils. The S2 thermal protection switch is not directly involved in the operation, it is always on and operates only if the kettle is turned on without water. From the switches, voltage is supplied to the terminals of the tubular electric heater, in abbreviated form - heating element. The HL lamp serves to indicate the on state.
From an electric plug of the C6 type, the mains voltage is supplied with the help of a flexible cord to the XP1 contacts of the stand, on which the electric kettle is installed when the water is heated. The contacts are deeply recessed into the support to prevent accidental contact with the human body.
If you look closely, you can see one spring-loaded electrical contact in the depths of each concentric groove. Through these contacts, the supply voltage is supplied to the electric kettle. There is also a contact in the hole in the center, which serves to connect the body of the electric kettle to the PE grounding wire. The PE contact is low-current and does not participate in the work, but only serves to protect a person from electric shock in the event of an insulation breakdown.
What the stand looks like with the cover removed can be seen in the photo. At the ends of the power cord, plug-in terminals are installed, which, in turn, are put on the terminals of the contacts. The photo on the right shows a view of the XP1 connector from the side of the contact block installation.
To transfer electricity from the stand to the kettle, in the center of its bottom there is a counterpart of the contacts of the XP1 connector, which is a grounding pin in the center and two concentric copper rings.
If you remove the lid of the electric kettle, then a picture will open before your eyes, as in the photo. The main element is a two-end tubular electric heater (TEN) bent in the form of an open ring.
At the ends of the heating element there are ceramic-insulated leads from the body for supplying the supply voltage. Steel flat contacts are welded to them by contact welding, onto which cap terminals are put on. There is a hole in the flat contact, and in the union terminal there is a spring-loaded strip with a protrusion. When putting on the terminal, the protrusion enters the hole on the contact, and reliably fixes the terminal, preventing it from spontaneous slipping. To remove the terminal, press the spring-loaded bar with the end of a sharp object so that the protrusion comes out of the hole.
Usually, insulating tubes are put on all the terminals in the electric kettle and the holes with the lock are not visible. Therefore, in this case, to release the terminal from the retainer, the insulation must be pushed aside, as shown in the photo. When installing the removed terminals in place, do not forget to orient them so that it is possible to squeeze the latch, otherwise the repeated removal of the terminal will be possible only with great effort.
To supply the supply voltage, turn on the electric kettle and protect it from overheating, a special unit is used, fixed with three screws or nuts in the center of the heating element circle. In order to remove the unit from the case, you need to remove the terminals from the heating element and unscrew the screws or nuts. In cheap models, instead of a threaded fastener, you can find a fastening using bent metal strips welded to the body, which have to be bent.
Heating elements in electric kettles, depending on their volume, are installed with a capacity of 500 to 2500 W and emit huge thermal energy in a small area. To exclude a fire if the kettle is turned on without water or the lid is not closed (in some models, the open position of the lid does not block the switch), the S2 thermal protection system is provided in the design.
As temperature sensors in electric kettles, round bimetallic plates are used with a recess inside, forming a "tongue" in the center of the plate.In the photograph of the reverse side of the power supply and thermal protection connection unit, two such plates are visible. When attaching the assembly to the bottom of the kettle, the bimetallic plates fit snugly against the body. For better heat transfer from the body, they are lubricated with a special thermally conductive paste. When repairing a kettle, this paste must not be removed.
A bimetallic plate consists of two thin plates of metals glued together over the entire plane with different coefficients of linear expansion. Therefore, when heated, one metal expands more than the other and the bimetallic plate bends. If you fix the bimetallic disc by the tongue, as in the photograph of the node, then its outer part will bend in it.
To turn off the kettle in case of overheating, it is enough to mechanically tie the bimetallic plate to the contacts. For this, a ceramic rod is used, one end of which rests against the disk, and the other against the spring-loaded plate of the contact group. When bending, the disc presses on the rod, which, pressing on the contact plate, moves the contacts away from each other.
This type of protection has a big drawback, after the kettle body has cooled down, the plate will return to its place and the kettle will turn on again, and this will continue until the heating element burns out or the electric kettle is turned off by the switch or removed from the stand. But, despite the noted drawback, this method of protection completely excludes the possibility of fire.
To prevent the heating element from turning on again, in some models, two bimetallic discs are installed. One works as I described above, and the second is connected to the switch and, when overheated, presses on the switch, which is triggered and completely disconnects the electric kettle from the supply voltage, as if the shutdown happened by a person's hand.
In modern electric kettles of any model there is a system for automatically disconnecting the heating element from the mains when the water boils. The principle of operation of the system is based on the direction of the steam generated during boiling of water through a channel to a bimetallic plate, mechanically connected to the switch.
The bimetallic disc on the switch is fixed to the edge, and therefore, when it heats up, the tongue bends, as in the photo. On the left is a bimetallic disc at room temperature and the tongue is in the plane of the rest of the disc surface. On the right, when heated with steam, the tongue bent down a few millimeters, pressed the switch lever S1 and the electric kettle turned off.
Depending on the manufacturer and model of the electric kettle, the key or lever of action on the switch is installed either in the upper part of the handle in the form of a key or under the handle, in the form of a plate or a rod with a handle put on it. The bimetallic disc is installed either at the top of the handle directly on the switch or at the base.
The cavity of the handle is usually used as a channel for supplying steam to the bimetallic plate of the switch. Sometimes for this purpose, a separate channel is installed inside the kettle in the form of a square or round tube, as in the photo. Installing a separate steam channel in the water tank is not the best option, since an additional gasket appears and, as a result, it is also a potential malfunction in the form of water leakage through this gasket.
In some models of kettles, in the base or on the power key, an on-state indicator is installed on a neon lamp, on an electrical diagram marked HL, or they make an LED backlight for water. The on-state indication allows you to immediately detect if the plug is not inserted into the outlet or if the kettle is poorly installed on the stand.
Usually, a neon lamp or a driver for LED backlighting of water is connected directly to the terminals of the heating element and therefore immediately indicates the supply of voltage to its terminals. For indication, an ordinary neon lamp is used, connected through a current-limiting resistor of about 200 kOhm. In the photo, the contour of the resistor is visible on a heat-shrinkable tube, put on the bottom wire.
LEDs are used as a light source for illuminating water in electric kettles. The LED is not designed for direct connection to the mains and therefore the driver is installed. The driver circuit is a series-connected rectifier diode, a 12 kΩ resistor with a power of 5 W and an LED. To exclude flickering of light, an electrolytic capacitor of 100 μF, 16 V is installed in parallel to the LED. Since two LEDs are used for the backlight, two circuits are assembled on the board.
The photo on the right shows a transparent insert mounted in the metal bottom of the kettle. Through it, the water is illuminated from the side of the base.
Video (click to play).
After studying the electrical circuit and the principle of operation of the electric kettle, you can start repairing it yourself. The most common case of breakdown is burnout of contact pads in switches and loss of contacts in terminal connections. These failures are due to the high current consumption of the electric kettle, the value of which can be found from the table below. The table is universal and applies to any electrical appliances designed for a 220 V AC supply - irons, electric stoves, heaters and others.