DIY watch electronics 5 repair

Description of electronic clock repair Janus, made in the USSR. The basis of these watches is the K145IK1901 microcircuit - a common Soviet controller for building electronic clocks. The time is displayed on the large green display IVL1-7 / 5. Based on the experience and repair of such watches, it can be concluded that most often the quartz resonator fails, the electrolytic capacitors dry out, and the vacuum indicators fade away. Indicators that failed due to a burnout of the filament have not yet come across. Of course, it is best to repair any electronics with a circuit. Here are two similar schemes. If anything, the K145IK1901 and KR145IK1901 microcircuits are interchangeable during repairs.

• SB1 - “M” - setting the current time in minutes, in the “T” mode - in seconds;
• SB2 - “H” - setting the current time in hours, in the “T” mode - in minutes;
• SB3 - "К" - correction of the current time;
• SB4 - "C" - stopwatch mode;
• SB5 - “О” - stop indication;
• SB6 - “T” - timer mode;
• SB7 - “B1” - “alarm clock 1” mode, the time is set using the “H” and “M” buttons.
• SB8 - “B” - call the indication of the current time, for example, after setting alarms;
• SB9 - “B2” - “alarm clock 2” mode.

In this case, the watch lay idle for a long time and finally, after 5 years, it was needed. Initially, there was an idea to buy ready-made LEDs - with large numbers, 5-10 centimeters high. But after looking at the price for 1000 rubles, I realized that it was better to revive the old ones.

We disassemble the case and examine the circuit with details - everything is quite complicated, compared to modern ones, on microcontrollers and LCDs. The power supply seems to be simple - transformerless, but then a reduced voltage of 10 V is converted by a very cunning inverter on a multi-winding ring, into 27 volts of power supply for the anode of the IVL-1 indicator.

There are no signs of life, the fuse and diodes are normal, but the power supply to the filter capacitor (1000 microfarads 16 V) is only 4 volts.

We take a laboratory regulated power supply unit and supply the clock with the 10 V voltage set according to the scheme, controlling the current. Everything worked - the indicator lit up and the dot of seconds began to blink. The current was about 80 mA.

Obviously the problem is in the capacitor. And the culprit was not the electrolyte of the filter, as you might immediately think, but the ballast network, which has almost lost its capacity, at 400 V 1 microfarad. In parallel, a second similar one was soldered to it, and when it was connected to the 220 V network, the device worked. The voltage immediately rose to 10.4 V.

On this, the repair can be considered complete, and 1000 rubles already allocated for the purchase - saved. From this we conclude: do not be lazy to repair household appliances and electronics on your own, because in addition to saving money on buying a new one, you will feel joy from a job successfully done and pride in front of your household 🙂

Annotation to the title of the article: we are, of course, talking about the repair of such Soviet watches as "Electronics 5" and their component responsible for sound.

In my case, the watch was made back in 1989 and, most likely, some parts of the watch did not survive the years of existence so successfully, the speaker of the watch could not stand it, it is also a "piezoelectric element".

Piezoelectric sound transducers are designed to convert an electrical signal into an acoustic one, including in the ultrasonic range. Piezoelectric emitters consist of a ceramic diaphragm mounted on a metal disc. Vibration of the disc occurs when voltage is applied. Pulsing voltage at a specific frequency creates a continuous sound signal in the piezoelectric emitter.Piezoelectric radiators are low power consumption, produce no electrical noise and generate clear sound.

• Directly for alarm operation
• Hourly signal
• Change alarm melody
• Maintain the impression that the watch is fully functional, increasing the value of the piece

The first reason is the artificial interaction of a person with the mechanism, the internals of the clock - damage or change in the location of the speaker with contacts - and now, the melodies no longer play.

The second is time killed the speaker, but perhaps not completely (sound at a low level), visually determined by the presence of cracks (s) on the piezoelectric transducer.

It is treated by the usual replacement of such an element with a similar one. The problem arises at the moment of realizing the "antiquity" of this device and the chances of finding the same element. There is no reason to panic or worry.

Repair is possible without even leaving the room. Find any more or less unnecessary musical greeting card, in case of emergency, buy it in the store. Remove this very speaker from it.

If it is in a plastic casing - we pick it out from there, as for the wires - we cut them off in the place of 2-3 centimeters from the speaker.

This piezo emitter is fully suitable as a replacement for a standard speaker. It is only necessary to "fit" the speaker contacts to the corresponding clock on the board. Gently dock it all together and close the lid. You can check!

I bring to your attention a video that I personally shot with my watch on the subject of how the refurbished watch works and how the melodies play (the sound is very loud).

• 

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider the situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur who solders all sorts of electronic gizmos and has some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

Good day to all. So I decided to create a new topic dedicated exclusively to the repair of “Electronics” watches of different models and years of production. In it, one could ask questions about a particular malfunction, problems, solutions, exchange of experience, etc. And it would be nice to fix it in a cap, so as not to look for a long time (I hope the moderators will not mind). What do you think, dear forum users?

Well, I decided to start by describing one of the ways to restore the performance of not very fresh conductive rubber bands. The problem is pretty well known, isn't it?
So, quite often you have to deal with the fact that the original rubber bands in watches are no longer capable of performing their functions at 100%. Their surfaces become glassy, ​​the elastic bands themselves are slightly compressed, etc. (of course, this applies mostly to old watches). As a result, some of the segments are not visible on the display.

The essence of my method consists in some build-up (by 0.2-0.3 mm) in height of the original, no longer very good elastic bands. And these 0.2-0.3 mm I get from. one more rubber band. It's pretty simple.

In most cases, the performance of the rubber bands is fully restored. If not, I continue to play with other rubber bands, different thicknesses, etc.

In conclusion, I want to say that my method does not prejudge some kind of panacea or absoluteness. He just helps me out in cases when the “native” rubber bands can no longer provide good contact and require replacement, and there is nowhere to take a suitable replacement.

I hope my experience is useful to someone else.

The subject is good. It would be great to pin it to the top of the branch. And then bit by bit you have to pull out information on repair from various, sometimes very forgotten topics, the names of which, well, do not relate to repair in any way.
Much has already been written. Here is a part collected in the register. I once did it for myself.
The essence of the register is the hardware of the clock, namely the photo of the boards, tuning, repair, management.

Sample registry structure: model (problem) - link >> - author - / topic /
Short designations:
E - Electronics,
K- Tuning fork,
L- Leader,
board - photo of disassembled watch
>> - link

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Clock hardware Electronics.
Read first. The answer to the question of where is what in the watch is located and how to deal with it >> Otmorozov / Electronics 55B /
.

To keep the buttons from getting stuck button tip >> Grammatevs / What to choose: Electronics ChN-01, ChN-02, ChN-03 or Elektronika-55B /
To keep the buttons from getting stuck button tip >> Electroff / What to choose: Electronics ChN-01, ChN-02, ChN-03 or Elektronika-55B /
To keep the buttons from getting stuck Tips for reworking your watch >> Berkut / What to choose: Electronics ChN-01, ChN-02, ChN-03 or Elektronika-55B /
CHN01 / CHN02 / CHN03 / CHN04 switching to Test-CHN01-CHN02-CHN03-CHN04 modes >> Electroff / How to make CHN-01 from CHN-02 /
ChN54 / ChN55 photo switching ChN55 to ChN54 mode and vice versa >> aleksej / Melody CHN-55 /
ChN54 / ChN55 switching ChN55 to ChN54 mode and vice versa >> and >> siealex / Electronics 55B /
ChN54 / ChN55 photo of the pads on the board for switching ChN55 to ChN54 mode and vice versa >> siealex Electronics 55B
ChN54 / ChN55 issues of increased current consumption when switching ChN55 to ChN54 and vice versa >> / Melody CHN-55 /
ChN54 / ChN55 issues of increased current consumption when switching ChN55 to ChN54 and vice versa >> / Melody CHN-55 /
CHN52 / CHN53 switching CHN52 / CHN53 >> / Another transformer /
E52 / E53 LCD Replacement Advice E52 / E53 >> siealex / Another transformer /
.

Batteries >>>
Batteries correspondence table >>>
.

Lots of instructions >>>
Lots of instructions >>
K55 / K55b / K2-52 / E5-29367M >> Otmorozov / Electronics 55B /
K55 / K55B / K2-52 / E5-29367M >> Grammatevs / Electronics 55B /
K55B >> elektronika5 / Instruction Electronics 77A and Tuning Fork 55B /
К59 >> Ilmir / Tuning Fork 65M instruction /
L2 >> and >> / Probably the most complete assortment of manufactured Electronics /
CHN01 / CHN01V >> Otmorozov / Electronics 55B /
CHN54 >> Otmorozov / Electronics 55B /
CHN54 / K63 >> Otmorozov / Electronics 55B /
E53 >> Otmorozov / Electronics 55B /
E77A >> illuzion watches / Electronics 77A /
E77A / E52 >> Otmorozov / Electronics 55B /
.

Watch catalog, photo >>> Frolov
Watch catalog, photo >>> Otmorozov
Watch catalog, photo >>
Watch catalog, photo >>>
Watch photo >>>
Watch photo >>>
History of the creation of Electronics >>>
.

Many thanks to aleksej, Berkut, fantom1981, Grammatevs, Luke_Skywalker, NamarElgert, Otmorozov, ProphetExMachina, Shai Alyt NEMO, siealex, Surok, WhiteLion, VesikOFF for not having to reinvent the wheel and poke around like a cat.

Electronic watches are subdivided into two main designs. The first one is actually a mechanical watch with a spring motor and an electric winding; the second is an electronic clock, the source of energy for which is an electric battery or accumulator.

There is no motor in this watch, and the energy from the power source is used to directly actuate the governor.

Electrically wound watches have been around for decades; purely electronic watches, especially wrist watches, have appeared in recent decades. All of them are more high-precision than mechanical modifications and can operate continuously without changing the power source for a year or more.

Electromagnetic or magnetoelectric clock

According to the principle of operation, electronic clocks can be divided into contact, non-contact (transistor), synchronous, tuning fork, etc.

In a contact watch, the electric power supply circuit of the governor drive is closed by means of a contact. In contactless watches, a miniature transistor is used for the same purpose. The synchronous clock is driven by a synchronous electric motor. A tuning fork watch has a tiny tuning fork as a regulator, the vibrations of which set their mechanism in motion.

Currently, there are several dozen different types of contact clocks and almost the same number of transistor ones. There is no definite systematization of their designs.

Here are some of the more interesting options.

Electro-mechanical contact wrist watch

The principle of operation of this watch is based on the interaction of a permanent magnet and an electric coil. The impulse that drives the travel regulator in this watch is triggered by an electrical contact.

If in a mechanical watch, the movement of the hands is carried out due to the energy supplied from the mainspring through the engine, and the oscillatory system of balance - the spiral also consumes the energy of the spring to maintain the oscillatory process, while performing the functions of only a stroke regulator, then in an electronic-mechanical watch the balance system - spiral - an electromagnet performs two functions simultaneously: a regulator and a motor. Energy from the balance through the wheel system is transferred directly to the arrows. Thus, the kinematic diagram of a contact electronic-mechanical watch differs markedly from the kinematic diagram of a conventional mechanical watch.

The layout of the mechanism of an electronic mechanical watch is also different from the usual one. In most cases, electronic mechanical watches use balances that are much larger in diameter than balances in mechanical watches of the same size. This is because more balance has more momentum. The use of such a balance in electronic-mechanical watches improves the stability of the watch and greatly facilitates its operation.

The watch mechanism is assembled in three levels. At the top level is the balance, in the middle is the magnetic system, wheel gear and battery, and at the bottom is the switch mechanism. The balance axis passes through all three levels, which is specially lengthened. To protect it from possible shock damage, special shock absorbers are used, similar to the shockproof devices in mechanical watches.

The watch has a battery (battery). With one of its poles, the battery touches the current-collecting bus. Through this bus, the current flows into a column isolated from the rest of the watch mechanism, which carries a contact plate. This plate is threaded through a wire loop attached to a second plate, also insulated from the rest of the mechanism.

The other pole of the battery is in contact with the mass of the entire mechanism. In this direction, the current from the battery flows through the spiral to the balance, and from there - to the coil fixed in the slot of the balance rim. The coil is connected at one end to the balance itself. Keep in mind that all the electronic circuitry of a small watch is very small.

The balance has a contact pin to which the other end of the coil is connected. And under the balance is a permanent magnet of high power made of a special platinum-cobalt alloy. The electrical steel magnetic core creates the required concentration of the magnetic field in the path of the coil and reduces the dissipation of the magnetic field.

A roller is installed on the balance axis, in which an ellipse is fixed. As soon as the balance starts to move and begins to oscillate, the ellipse alternately grabs the ratchet teeth and rotates it. When the ratchet disengages from the ellipse, it is held in place by a magnet, also made of platinum-cobalt alloy. The teeth of the steel ratchet are alternately attracted to the magnet, thus the ratchet is locked.

When the balance moves in the direction of travel, the ellipse grabs the next ratchet tooth and rotates it, as a result of which the next ratchet tooth is in a magnetic field. The magnetically tightened ratchet locks into position.

With the reverse movement of the balance, the ellipse does not remove the fixed tooth from the field of the magnet, since it displaces it only slightly. The ratchet is again attracted by the magnet and returns to its original position.

The ratchet wheel, in turn, meshes with the second center wheel. This wheel, when rotating, is mated with the minute wheel. A minute tribe is installed on the hub of the minute wheel. Through the bill wheel and its tribe, it is connected to the hour wheel.

The kinematics of the watch is as follows: if you put a battery in it and swing the balance, then the contact pin comes into contact with the plate and the electrical circuit is closed. The current flows through the coil, which will create an electromagnetic field around it. The moment the coil is close to the permanent magnet, the contact is triggered.

Due to the interaction of the electric fields of the coil and the magnet, a force will act on the coil to push the coil out of the magnetic field. The movement will cause the balance to rotate and begin to rotate. When the coil leaves the range of the magnet, the contact will be open and the impulse will cease to flow to the balance.

Under the influence of the spiral, the balance changes its direction of rotation. Because of this, the coil approaches the permanent magnet again. But no contact occurs as the contact pin goes past the end of the plate without touching it.

Some additional devices are required in a wrist electronic watch. The fact is that when you start the watch, you need to give the balance an initial impulse. A device in the form of a special system of levers is intended for this. At the same time, this device is intended to protect the balance from breakage when moving the arrows.

The system of levers slows down the balance when the turnover mechanism is activated.

Electronic-mechanical non-contact watches

This watch is also equipped with an electromagnetic balance drive, that is, a drive of the type in which an impulse is imparted to the balance due to the interaction of the fields of a permanent magnet and an electric coil (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Schematic diagram of the operation of an electronic-mechanical watch:

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Suddenly I wanted to light up the room green.
First of all, the problem was in the filter condenser. They began to work, but after each switch-on, right before our eyes, quartz began to “leave” in a very sharp minus. Replaced.

But then something interesting went on. The accuracy of the move is not set in any way. It changes only within small limits + - 5 s / hour, but it takes 30 seconds !. 5 quartz has already been replaced - lags or advances are different, but the clock does not enter the mode. There is no frequency counter.

Replaced both the trimmer air conditioner, and the usual one - the effect is zero.

The generator circuit is fairly standard. Quartz, two 1M and 10M resistors, one 18p air conditioner, the other trimmer. In some schemes, a selection is put in parallel to him, but the selection within reasonable limits did not give anything.

Maybe someone will advise what? The microcircuit somehow does not really want to change because of the old clock.
And, by the way, why are there exactly 2 capacitors in the generator circuits, and always with slightly different ratings (10-40p)? What is this type of oscillatory circuit obtained?

Hello everyone!
I own 13 desktop electronics, which served faithfully in the garage, where I do not go every day, so
the dynamics of the manifestation of the malfunction was not revealed.
In fact, the time has spontaneously reset, all zeros are displayed on the display, the middle segments of all zeros are not fully illuminated and blink at an arbitrary frequency. If the alarm / timer button is turned ON, a crackling sound is heard from the speaker, very similar to the operation of a Geiger counter.

I need help with the repair, namely, which elements of the circuit to pay attention to, what actions to perform with them, etc.

Photo:

Good afternoon, dear electronics lovers! Today we have a wall electronic clock, well-known in Soviet times, under repair. Electronics 7-06K. with a correction unit based on precise time signals connected to a radio broadcasting network, due to which a high accuracy of the course is achieved. These clocks could be seen mainly at train stations, various institutions, public places, thanks to their considerable overall dimensions and large double-type numbers, they were immediately visible from any point. They are one of the symbols of the electronics of the Soviet era in the 70s and 80s, along with the AMT-69 telephones, which were in every telephone booth, at telephone booths, in all settlements of the country.

The watch is assembled at the Reflector factory in Saratov. It is the oldest enterprise that to this day produces electronic displays, various wall clocks with LED indicators. The cost of the watch was considerable - 400 rubles. for 1986. The factory began producing watches in 1968. Famous wall clocks "ELECTRONICS 7-06" and their various modifications were supplied to 30 countries of the world. Over the entire production period, more than 350 thousand pieces of watches were produced. The same plant produced three types of vacuum luminescent indicators IV-26. Type 1, type 2, type 3. They differed in the pinout. Reflector plant produced over 1 billion lamps during the production period.

There were many varieties of Electronics 7 watches. For example, in the photo above, instead of the dividing point, there are two segments of the IV-4 indicator showing the seconds. There was also an electronic outdoor dosimeter-scoreboard, it was named 7-06K-03D. On the same indicators IV-26. Now to find it, it is very rare.

A regular clock Electronics 7-06K consumes 40 W from a 220V network. Now you can find them only on Avito, various electronic auctions, private advertisements. This watch is suitable for interior decoration in a retro style, in the style of the era of the USSR. They look great.

Watches in different conditions are sold by private advertisements, I would recommend choosing those with non-shrunk IV-26 indicators. Since the main problem of these watches is the burning out over time of the IV-26 vacuum luminescent indicators. There are 40 of them in hours. And if all or several lamps in each segment of the numbers have burned out, changing them is a very laborious task, becauseyou need to completely disassemble the watch to get to it. Soldering them is also laborious. You can find and buy IV-26 now everywhere - at auctions, for example Avito, in electronic stores of radio components. Some change them to LEDs while replacing the clock electronics with another. But the LEDs give too bright a picture that irritates the eyes. Lamps, on the other hand, have a warm contrasting image without straining our eyes so much. Therefore, in a large room with such a clock, they will be visible from any point, but at the same time, they will not annoy you with bright light, like LEDs. This is intentionally invented. But now the era of LEDs has come, so you can't get it anywhere.

The watch has a glass tinted to match a dark color, this is a usual silicate glass. The plant did not install plexiglass. By replacing shrunken indicators, it is clear that they need to be replaced with serviceable ones.

After replacing it immediately turns out that you get a bright juicy glow. And if, for example, they are used in an apartment, then at night you may not fall asleep from their glow. They can replace a night lamp. Therefore, you can proceed as follows and at the same time answer the question of why the IV-26 indicators burn out over time.

A voltage of + 26V is supplied to the anodes of the lamps. On filament - 3.16 volts AC voltage, supplied from the power transformer.

The passport for IV-26 says that the power supply of the filament is only with alternating current. Indicators' operating time between failures is 5000 hours on average. The indicators are designed in such a way that the anode voltage is unevenly distributed over the indicator. In particular, their potential for current application is greater from one end and then damped to the other. This is one of the reasons for the gradual burnout of indicators.

To regulate the glow of the indicators, you need to lower the anode voltage. Do not touch the heat, because there will be a loss of cathode emission. The anode voltage is regulated by a 2W variable wire resistor. We connect all the anodes of the lamps to one point and connect through a resistor to + 26V. At the same time, by adjusting the voltage at the anode, you can see the uneven distribution of the glow of the indicators. With a variable resistor, the indicators can be operated in a sparing mode and at the same time you can set the clock in the living room at night without fear of its bright glow.

Clock with reduced brightness

By the way, another model of a room clock had a resistor for regulating the anode voltage, in the same model it is not, because the operation of the watch was calculated specifically for large areas where the maximum glow is required.

You also need to replace the 2000uF supply capacitor with a new 4700uF x 50V. Since these electrolytes dry out over time.

The watch has a compartment for 9V batteries. in case of disconnection from the 220V network. with the preservation of time readings. The compartment should contain two spare IV-26 indicator lamps and a fuse. Instead of six 1.5V batteries, you can put two 18650 lithium batteries. They will work for a long time, because consumption current is scanty. And large elements oxidize over time and, releasing salt, spoil the contacts and contaminate the compartment with oxides.

Now let's move on to the electronic part of the watch, which is responsible for the account. There can be many problems here, especially if the watch has stood somewhere in a humid dusty room, in frost, etc.

The electronic part of the clock is built on K176 series CMOS microcircuits. The counter itself is made on a K176IE12 microcircuit. On microcircuits counters-decoders K176IE3 and IE4 decimal counters are made.

There are three buttons on the side panel. Reset button, setting hours and setting minutes. And also the SG-5 socket for connecting the Radio network for time correction according to special. signals.

These buttons in the early versions of watches were military - round, they are more reliable, and then later - they were replaced with cheap P2K. P2K over time from poor storage of watches cease to provide reliable contact. And through them there is a chain for setting the minutes and hours from the IE12 counter to the IE3 and IE4 decoders.Therefore, in case of poor contact in the switch, a jump forward of the hour or minute readings is observed. This can be chaotic. For example, it was 12.10 in an hour already 14.10. Etc. Therefore, the old buttons must be replaced with the same new ones. You can get them at radio stores. There are still a lot of them left from storage. Restoration of old buttons is impossible, because the watch is very sensitive to poor contact, and at the slightest violation it knocks its readings.

The same can be attributed to the large connector - "noodles" - a loop, which receives the control voltage for the IV-26 indicators, supply voltage, switching from buttons, etc. From poor storage or use, this connector also starts to "glitch". The clock is out of order. Either “gibberish” is observed in the form of incorrect symbols, or one segment stops glowing. The connector must be cleaned of oxides, and the internal connector must also be cleaned. most of the glitches come from it. Or, if you don't "bother" with cleaning the connector, you can unsolder the connector from the board and solder the entire "plug" into the board.

If the clock does not have a count, or there is no counting of hours or minutes, or “gibberish” in the form of incorrectly displayed symbols, the problem should be looked for in IE3 and IE4 as well as in IE12.

We put a capacity of 12pF, the clock is in an incredible hurry, after a few minutes it ran away from the control for four minutes. We put 18pf - the same result. We put 47pF - stabilization. The clock does not run forward. You can adjust the clock by the frequency counter.

And still, after a couple of days, the clock began to rush by about a minute. What it could have been remained unknown. Suspicion fell on quartz, tk. when unsoldering the capacitor, the temperature of the soldering iron affected the quartz as well, and somehow it became unstable, possibly from time to time. Replacing it with imported 32768 kHz,

after a week, the clock readings did not change and were the same with other clocks.

Having checked the K176IE12 for generation, it can be assumed that the K176IE3 or IE4 may be faulty. If the clock has stood for a long time in a damp, cold room, it is better to replace them all, after placing them on the panels.

It is advisable to install IE3 and IE4 of the same batch or at least the same years and manufacturers. Because there may be glitches with the readings of the numbers.

Separately about the block for adjusting the time according to the signals of the radio broadcasting network. Now this is no longer relevant, tk. radio is no longer broadcast to homes. But the idea is interesting, and the board on some microcircuits is intricately designed.

A small repair of the watch to eliminate the cause of the chaotic disappearance of segments of numbers, jumping minutes forward, and other glitches. It has been empirically revealed that the culprit for these problems is the connector to which the "noodles" are connected. Apparently, over time, the reliable contact in the connector was broken, and from changes in humidity, temperature in the room, the clock starts to glitch. They turned out to be too sensitive to breakdowns in contacts. If you move the connector a little, the clock will either reset or skip the minutes. Therefore, we solder these two connectors from the board and solder the plugs themselves into the board.

They still work great.

Believe it or not, but the clock that I have on the photo below is alive. Almost in working order. “Almost”, because they have been worn out for more than 30 years. Well, the design is a bit different. This model was produced in different variations. Even now, remakes are riveted, for in Japan one of the most iconic

no, but they have a thermometer. This entire series, produced since the 80s of the twentieth century, is called ANA-DIGI TEMP.

for me, the coolness of such a watch was measured in the number of buttons on the sides .. Yes, there are 4 buttons - you have a mega-realistic clock)

the same are in the storeroom. I change the battery - they go. By the way, I gave these (or very similar ones)

there is fire in gold! long before apple watch)

These are the houses lying around, Elektronika-5:

There were such in childhood, only blue

Wore, wear and will wear (until they die completely)!
An excellent watch, they keep a battery for a year and a half, the TsNH is a great thing! If I knew where - I would have bought it in reserve.

Recently purchased, completely new, ordered from Minsk. It's a pity from 1981-2019 in the settings

Gossadi, I would buy these! Gentlemen pikabushniki, who has such a miracle?)

Bl, the picture was not inserted.

FED. Went with FED from 2010 to 2013. No digital phobia, I just wanted to feel on myself how photographs were taken in the pre-digital era. For in the 90s, at the sunset of the film, I was still too small for meaningful photography and took pictures only occasionally, when my dad gave me a camera with an already adjusted exposure coupler and focus.

And this (when I was already filming myself), I can tell you, was cool: like a short trip by a time machine in the 70s (my FED-5V was launched in 75; by the way, my particular copy was in a new state).

Grandmothers, she only found them yesterday in an old jacket.

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