DIY electronics watch repair 7

The clock “Electronics 7-06K”, produced in 1989, stood on a cabinet in the room. I changed the blown fuses, turned it on, watched the following picture:

At the input there is a dried up huge (seemingly non-polar) electrolyte 2000 μF / 50 V, large voltage fluctuations. I changed it to a small polar 2200 μF / 50 V, now the voltage is 27 volts and 9 volts are normal. The picture has not changed.

The clock reacts to button presses, hours and minutes scroll, though sometimes you have to press the button a second time.

What could be the problem? And how to disassemble such a watch? They are in a wooden case, you cannot take them out through the back wall - the glued-in battery compartment interferes, as I understand it, you need to disassemble through the front, removing the glass?

YGRIG,
Disassembled from the front, from the side of the indicators (screws), be careful with the glass, it may unexpectedly fall out. I bought indicators, they are glass tubular.

YGRIG
By the way, pay attention to the marking of the indicators, the letter matters. Good luck.

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analogopathologist

Posts: 5922

analogopathologist

Posts: 5922

5000 rubles Yes, and soldering of all IV-26

Based on the above, I replaced IV-26 with LED strip G61 p / n 3528-120LED-1M-GREEN (600PCS 3528SMD), DC12V, IP33,48W. The package 5 meters long was enough for the aforementioned two hours. I will post a photo report on the work done a little later.

13V, 2A). Voltage windings

I connected 11 Volt in parallel, and to them I connected in series two windings of 1.9 Volts (see the electrical diagram). The wiring diagram also shows a practical connection of the windings, taking into account their phasing for the version of the watch “Electronics-7”, issue 02-1984.
In the first version, I used KR142EN8D as a stabilizer for powering the indicators, which I then replaced with a MINI-360 pulse step-down on the MP2307DN IC
. .
The current consumption at a supply voltage of 12 Volts was 0.95 Ampere (on the display - all numbers are zero).

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Good afternoon, dear electronics lovers! Today we have a wall electronic clock, well-known in Soviet times, under repair. Electronics 7-06K. with a correction unit based on precise time signals connected to the radio broadcasting network, due to which a high accuracy of the course is achieved. These clocks could be seen mainly at train stations, various institutions, public places, thanks to their considerable overall dimensions and large double-type numbers, they were immediately visible from any point. They are one of the symbols of the electronics of the Soviet era in the 70s and 80s, along with the AMT-69 telephones, which were in every telephone booth, at telephone booths, in all settlements of the country.

The watch is assembled at the Reflector factory in Saratov. This is the oldest enterprise that to this day produces electronic displays, various wall clocks with LED indicators. The cost of the watch was considerable - 400 rubles. for 1986. The factory began producing watches in 1968. Famous wall clocks "ELECTRONICS 7-06" and their various modifications were supplied to 30 countries of the world. Over the entire production period, more than 350 thousand pieces of watches were produced. The same plant produced three types of vacuum luminescent indicators IV-26. Type 1, type 2, type 3. They differed in the pinout. Reflector plant produced over 1 billion lamps during the production period.

There were many varieties of Electronics 7 watches. For example, in the photo above, instead of the dividing point, there are two segments of the IV-4 indicator showing the seconds.There was also an electronic outdoor dosimeter-scoreboard, it was named 7-06K-03D. On the same indicators IV-26. Now to find it, it is very rare.

A regular clock Electronics 7-06K consumes 40 W from a 220V network. Now you can find them only on Avito, various electronic auctions, private advertisements. This watch is suitable for interior decoration in a retro style, in the style of the era of the USSR. They look great.

Watches in different conditions are sold by private advertisements, I would recommend choosing those with non-shrunk IV-26 indicators. Since the main problem of these watches is the burning out over time of the IV-26 vacuum luminescent indicators. There are 40 of them in hours. And if all or several lamps in each segment of the numbers have burned out, changing them is a very laborious task, because you need to completely disassemble the watch to get to it. Soldering them is also laborious. You can find and buy IV-26 now everywhere - at auctions, for example Avito, in electronic stores of radio components. Some change them to LEDs while replacing the clock electronics with another. But the LEDs give too bright a picture that irritates the eyes. Lamps, on the other hand, have a warm contrasting image without straining our eyes so much. Therefore, in a large room with such a clock, they will be visible from any point, but at the same time, they will not annoy you with bright light, like LEDs. This is intentionally invented. But now the era of LEDs has come, so you can't get it anywhere.

The watch has a glass tinted to match a dark color, this is a usual silicate glass. The plant did not install plexiglass. By replacing shrunken indicators, it is clear that they need to be replaced with serviceable ones.

After replacing it immediately turns out that you get a bright juicy glow. And if, for example, they are used in an apartment, then at night you may not fall asleep from their glow. They can replace a night lamp. Therefore, you can proceed as follows and at the same time answer the question of why the IV-26 indicators burn out over time.

A voltage of + 26V is supplied to the anodes of the lamps. On filament - 3.16 volts AC voltage, supplied from the power transformer.

The passport for IV-26 says that the power supply of the filament is only with alternating current. Indicators' operating time between failures is 5000 hours on average. The indicators are designed in such a way that the anode voltage is unevenly distributed over the indicator. In particular, their potential for current application is greater from one end and then damped to the other. This is one of the reasons for the gradual burnout of indicators.

To regulate the glow of the indicators, you need to lower the anode voltage. Do not touch the heat, because there will be a loss of cathode emission. The anode voltage is regulated by a 2W variable wire resistor. We connect all the anodes of the lamps to one point and connect through a resistor to + 26V. At the same time, by adjusting the voltage at the anode, you can see the uneven distribution of the glow of the indicators. With a variable resistor, the indicators can be operated in a sparing mode and at the same time you can set the clock in the living room at night without fear of its bright glow.

Clock with reduced brightness

By the way, another model of a room clock had a resistor for regulating the anode voltage, in the same model it is not, because the operation of the watch was calculated specifically for large areas where the maximum glow is required.

You also need to replace the 2000uF supply capacitor with a new 4700uF x 50V. Since these electrolytes dry out over time.

The watch has a compartment for 9V batteries. in case of disconnection from the 220V network. with the preservation of time readings. The compartment should contain two spare IV-26 indicator lamps and a fuse. Instead of six 1.5V batteries, you can put two 18650 lithium batteries. They will work for a long time, because consumption current is scanty. And large elements oxidize over time and, releasing salt, spoil the contacts and contaminate the compartment with oxides.

Now let's move on to the electronic part of the watch, which is responsible for the account. There can be many problems here, especially if the watch has stood somewhere in a humid dusty room, in frost, etc.

The electronic part of the clock is built on K176 series CMOS microcircuits.The counter itself is made on a K176IE12 microcircuit. On microcircuits counters-decoders K176IE3 and IE4 decimal counters are made.

There are three buttons on the side panel. Reset button, setting hours and setting minutes. And also the SG-5 socket for connecting the Radio network for time correction according to special. signals.

These buttons in the early versions of watches were military - round, they are more reliable, and then later - they were replaced with cheap P2K. P2K over time from poor storage of watches cease to provide reliable contact. And through them there is a chain for setting the minutes and hours from the IE12 counter to the IE3 and IE4 decoders. Therefore, in case of poor contact in the switch, a jump forward of the hour or minute readings is observed. This can be chaotic. For example, it was 12.10 in an hour already 14.10. Etc. Therefore, the old buttons must be replaced with the same new ones. You can get them at radio stores. There are still a lot of them left from storage. Restoration of old buttons is impossible, because the watch is very sensitive to poor contact, and at the slightest violation it knocks its readings.

The same can be attributed to the large connector - "noodles" - a loop, which receives the control voltage for the IV-26 indicators, supply voltage, switching from buttons, etc. From poor storage or use, this connector also starts to "glitch". The clock is out of order. Either “gibberish” is observed in the form of incorrect symbols, or one segment stops glowing. The connector must be cleaned of oxides, and the internal connector must also be cleaned. most of the glitches come from it. Or, if you don't "bother" with cleaning the connector, you can unsolder the connector from the board and solder the entire "plug" into the board.

If the clock does not have a count, or there is no counting of hours or minutes, or “gibberish” in the form of incorrectly displayed symbols, the problem should be looked for in IE3 and IE4 as well as in IE12.

We put a capacity of 12pF, the clock is in an incredible hurry, after a few minutes it ran away from the control for four minutes. We put 18pf - the same result. We put 47pF - stabilization. The clock does not run forward. You can adjust the clock by the frequency counter.

And still, after a couple of days, the clock began to rush by about a minute. What it might have been remained unknown. Suspicion fell on quartz, tk. when unsoldering the capacitor, the temperature of the soldering iron affected the quartz as well, and somehow it became unstable, possibly from time to time. Replacing it with imported 32768 kHz,

after a week, the clock readings did not change and were the same with other clocks.

Having checked the K176IE12 for generation, it can be assumed that the K176IE3 or IE4 may be faulty. If the clock has stood for a long time in a damp, cold room, it is better to replace them all, after placing them on the panels.

It is advisable to install IE3 and IE4 of the same batch or at least the same years and manufacturers. Because there may be glitches with the readings of the numbers.

Separately about the block for adjusting the time according to the signals of the radio broadcasting network. Now this is no longer relevant, tk. radio is no longer broadcast to homes. But the idea is interesting, and the board on some microcircuits is intricately designed.

A small repair of the watch to eliminate the cause of the chaotic disappearance of segments of numbers, jumping minutes forward, and other glitches. It has been empirically revealed that the culprit for these problems is the connector to which the "noodles" are connected. Apparently, over time, the reliable contact in the connector was broken, and from changes in humidity, temperature in the room, the clock starts to glitch. They turned out to be too sensitive to violations of contacts. If you move the connector a little, the clock will either reset or skip the minutes. Therefore, we solder these two connectors from the board and solder the plugs themselves into the board.

So, about six months ago, kind people at the department gave me old and non-working hours "Electronics 7". This is how they looked:

What does not work in the watch can be seen in the picture - half of the segments in the vacuum tubes are burnt out. I got the idea to restore such a miracle of Soviet engineering with style - to replace the vacuum-luminescent indicators with modern bright LEDs "Piranha" and replace the electronics itself inside.

The following is a description of the restoration process so that anyone with straight arms can repeat it. To attract attention, I will show a photo of the result:

1. Mark holes for 2 digits on the breadboard on the metallization side;
2. Apply cardboard from the front side, punch holes in it for the LED legs;
3. Put the LEDs in place, solder them according to the "common cathode" scheme.

This is what the finished front and back layouts look like:

If you are satisfied with this view, then you can proceed to the next step. I was not satisfied with the beveled frames made of black paint on the glass, I removed the paint from the glass and replaced it with a tint film:

As a basis, I took what was at hand - the PIC16F887 microcontroller (5 pieces or 10 pieces for Ali). The scheme has gone through several versions and alterations. Initially, all the transistors on the circuit were field-effect, but, as it turned out, the 5V supply voltage does not fully open them, and they were replaced with good old NPN transistors.
Version 1 of the circuit uses a clock crystal to clock the microcontroller and has a connection to a temperature display:

In the second version, I changed the clock source of the MK to an internal clock with a frequency of 4 MHz, since the clock crystal frequency was not enough to multiplex the clock display. The quartz from the clock was supplied by the timer 1 source.

The scheme is simple and has nothing superfluous, so there is nothing to explain here. You can start assembling the circuit on a breadboard:

At this point, everything separately should be ready. All that remains is to upload the firmware, put everything together and run.

In my case, tragic events led to the death of the original chipboard frame and the culprit had to assemble a new body. If your arms are growing correctly, then you do not need to assemble a new body.
Photo of the final result:

Finally we got around to complement our old project, namely to add a real-time clock DS1302. Now you can not count the time in the MK, but entrust this task to a special chip (look for a module with it on aliexpress and the like).
Here's the updated schematic:

Only a good thing was spoiled. Well, what prevented you from leaving Electronics alone? You made a new watch instead of the old one

Of course I could leave her alone, but half of the segments in her did not work and she was gathering dust in the corner for about 10 years. Now she works.
It's a shame, of course, that you didn't like the new look.
As for the fact that I made a new watch instead of the old one, I agree. Isn't that why the article is called “Rework” and not “Rework” or “Modification”?

As for me, the Soviet design of the indication is cooler.

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This tutorial will help beginner developers of Java EE applications.

IntelliJ IDEA is a great IDE for a Java developer, however its Community Edition is somewhat limited in regard to enterprise and web development toolbox. You can easily develop desktop applications in Community, but confronted with the need to develop an enterprise web application with Java EE you suddenly find out that Community Edition can’t provide you with an application server or automatic deployment or anything, really.
In this tutorial I'm going to show you how to sidestep this issue by integrating IntelliJ IDEA Community Edition with Tomcat (via Maven) to develop a sample website with servlets.

Hello! This blog post focuses on one simple task: quickly creating a web application using Spring Boot in IntelliJ IDEA Community Edition.

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Description of electronic clock repair Janus, made in the USSR. The basis of these watches is the K145IK1901 microcircuit - a common Soviet controller for building electronic clocks. The time is displayed on the large green display IVL1-7 / 5.Based on the experience and repair of such watches, it can be concluded that most often the quartz resonator fails, the electrolytic capacitors dry out, and the vacuum indicators fade away. Indicators that failed due to a burnout of the filament have not yet come across. Of course, it is best to repair any electronics with a circuit. Here are two similar schemes. If anything, the K145IK1901 and KR145IK1901 microcircuits are interchangeable during repairs.

• SB1 - “M” - setting the current time in minutes, in the “T” mode - in seconds;
• SB2 - “H” - setting the current time in hours, in the “T” mode - in minutes;
• SB3 - "К" - correction of the current time;
• SB4 - "C" - stopwatch mode;
• SB5 - “О” - stop indication;
• SB6 - “T” - timer mode;
• SB7 - “B1” - “alarm clock 1” mode, the time is set using the “H” and “M” buttons.
• SB8 - “B” - call the indication of the current time, for example, after setting alarms;
• SB9 - “B2” - “alarm clock 2” mode.

In this case, the watch lay idle for a long time and finally, after 5 years, it was needed. Initially, there was an idea to buy ready-made LEDs - with large numbers, 5-10 centimeters high. But after looking at the price for 1000 rubles, I realized that it was better to revive the old ones.

We disassemble the case and examine the circuit with details - everything is rather complicated, compared to modern ones, on microcontrollers and LCDs. The power supply seems to be simple - transformerless, but then a reduced voltage of 10 V is converted by a very cunning inverter on a multi-winding ring, into 27 volts of power supply for the anode of the IVL-1 indicator.

There are no signs of life, the fuse and diodes are normal, but the power supply to the filter capacitor (1000 microfarads 16 V) is only 4 volts.

We take a laboratory regulated power supply unit and supply the clock with the 10 V voltage set according to the scheme, controlling the current. Everything worked - the indicator lit up and the dot of seconds began to blink. The current was about 80 mA.

Obviously the problem is in the capacitor. And the culprit was not the electrolyte of the filter, as you might immediately think, but the ballast network, which almost lost its capacity, at 400 V 1 microfarad. In parallel, a second similar one was soldered to it, and when it was connected to the 220 V network, the device worked. The voltage immediately rose to 10.4 V.

On this, the repair can be considered complete, and 1000 rubles already allocated for the purchase - saved. From this we conclude: do not be lazy to repair household appliances and electronics on your own, because in addition to saving money on buying a new one, you will feel joy from a job successfully done and pride in front of your household 🙂

Yes, glitches are not childish.

Well, for a start, I would replace all the old electrolytic capacitors (silver barrels), near one of the legs of which there is a “+” sign, with new ones of the same or similar rating for the maximum operating voltage not less than indicated on the old ones.
(for example: we solder the Soviet capacitor 50μF at 50V, put a new 47 μF for 50 or more (63, 100) V instead).
Especially in the food side ”.

Soviet electrolytes love to dry out and lose capacity.
So it is very possible that I will give the devil what is going on for nutrition. Hence the glitches.

radio engineering modding vintage electronics —————— Vintage Electronic

I decided to buy the broken ones to exercise, dig deeper, see in general what kind of miracle it is. Watch 1992 The watch was produced from 1990 to 1993, approximately, by the Reflector plant.

Buying from one Kulibin, when he took it, the owner honestly admitted that he was broken and tried to repair it failed. Well, I think that's a damn ambush. All the same, at such a ridiculous price, I decided to take it.

And so we went. We turn on! Oops, the first joy, 03 is lit on the screen, well, the watch needed an ambulance =) they ask themselves =) Well, I think well already.

There are a lot of buttons to poke, therefore, in order not to get confused, read the instructions

1. Plug in the power cord. Any information will appear.
2. Press the PRG button and, while holding it, press C (reset).On the indicator of the board, the hours and minutes will be reset to zero. The symbols ВС and ПРГ appear - the watch is ready for work.

1. Press the * (preset) button. The indicator board will light up with reduced brightness (setting is allowed).
2. Set the day of the week by pressing one of the buttons (from 0 to 6). The symbols Sun to Sat will appear.
3. Set tens of hours (0 to 2)
4. Set the value of the units (from 0 to 9)
5. Set tens of minutes (from 0 to 5)
6. Set the units of minutes (from 0 to 9)
7. Press the ↑ arrow (save).
8. At the moment of 00 seconds, press the TV button. Startup will take place, and the dividing dots will start blinking on the display.

CURRENT TIME CORRECTION

1. A minute before the start of the exact time signal, press C (zero the readings)
2. Dial the value of the current time.
3. At the moment of the sixth signal (00 seconds) press on TV.

1. Press PRG
2. Press C (zeroing)
3. Press * (preset)
4. Press 7 (alarm clock)
5. Set the alarm time value
6. Press the ↑ arrow (save).
7. Press the TV button.

Press the SIGNAL button
CALLING A SIGNAL
1. Press PRG
2. Press TV

SET WEEKLY ALARM.

The alarm clock can work on days of the week.
1. Press PRG
2. Press C (zeroing)
3. Press * (preset)
4. Press 7 (alarm clock)
5. Press С (it will switch to the mode of setting the days of the week)
6. Set the alarm time value
7. Press the ↑ arrow (save).
8. Press the TV button.

After carrying out the planned work, it turned out that the KR1016VI1 microcircuit also died. Symptoms - the units of hours do not burn at all in memory.

I put a socket under the microcircuit. And without bullying, he put a micra.

Put a new micra KR1016VI1 1992. It comes with through oval holes (for better cooling, the old one had no holes. For one thing, I changed quartz 32.768 to a fresher one.

At the current moment: 2 hours of work - normal flight. The alarm clock works in different modes, including weekly. The settings of the set time are written into the micro memory.

The body is dirty, greasy and yellow. The restoration was carried out according to his own debugged scheme. Acetone + cotton swab + dense microfiber cloth, with neat and quick movements all yellowness and dirt
clean off.

• 

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider the situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur who solders all sorts of electronic gizmos and has some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”.So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in a post, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stuck and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the whole process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

At work, in the workshop of my repair team, from the very moment I was transferred there, I strained the box under the ceiling. It had the colors of the walls, wires went to it, but the functionality was not clear.During cosmetic repairs, the box was removed, and it turned out to be an Elektronika 7 clock, which was hung there 20-25 years ago, covered with polyethylene paint, AND PAINTED DOWN. the chipboard body had crawled, nothing wanted to burn.

However, inside there was just such a bag (5 lamps, 2 fuses, a chip from the connector and a couple of radio components in an aluminum package) and, fortunately, our neighbors in the workshop are ACS repairmen.

The device was completely disassembled and handed over to colleagues in the workshop.

While our friends were shamanizing with dark electric forces, we put a chipboard table on the new building, having painted it with gold paint from a spray can. Glass is completely cleaned of paint residues and tinted to zero in the right places but what are we sitting in an aquarium like fuckers?.

By the way, the inner frame was made of 25th steel angle and painted with a very thick layer of black paint. Rust was only on the outer elements of the case.

After returning the mechanism from neighbors, the watch is assembled, a plug is added for easy connection.

According to electrical colleagues, there were enough spare parts in a bag (the prudent engineers of the USSR), but one more lamp still would not hurt (the second digit is the bottom row of the middle "crossbar").

The clock works and hangs in the old place, but now it is functional.