In detail: do-it-yourself watch repair orient from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Where to begin. Some notes from Bogdan J.
This is purely the experience of an amateur who has never been a professional watchmaker. Accordingly, all this is suitable for the amateur. A professional is dear to the school. They will teach everything there.
Start with Pinkin. Or from Troyanovsky. In general, there are books on the topic of clock repair. Download and print. Okay, there is no Internet - everyone will do it for you in any Internet cafe. You must have a book. It can get expensive but well worth it. This book is a guide for the layperson who should be able to understand at least something from this book. Almost our case. I have never done anything like that - and here it was.
Let's make some additions with the amendment for today for those who are pinned.
Screwdrivers. Start simple.
Chinese. I use it. I sharpen it. As for Chinese screwdrivers - look where on the streets watch batteries are changed and batteries and watch straps are sold. Or in the most ordinary households. A set of screwdrivers for small jobs.
You take a screwdriver. If it turns out to be too soft and bends when trying to unscrew something, put a candle next to the screwdriver. You heat the blade of a screwdriver and quickly into wax. This is hardening. Then you take a small stone and sharpen it along Pinkin.
More cool - in a machine on a diamond disc. But it will be later. When the tool and machines appear. Stones are well suited for finishing.
Tweezers (for starters - medical eye tweezers will do).
An alternative is to get acquainted with a radio bazaar (if Moscow - it seems Gorbushka - where they sell radio components, radio stations and computer gadgets) - see the boxes where the instrument is sold. You will be greatly surprised by the abundance. Good tools are surprisingly expensive. Tweezers shapes - see Pinkin. I'm not talking about big watch shops. They would rather be beaten than sold at a normal price. They do not want to breed competitors. And if they do, the prices are simply unrealistic. Doesn't fit into any gate.
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Video (click to play). |
There is also a radio bazaar - Galosha gasoline. Wash. It is much drier than kerosene and white spirit.
You take sticks (like Chinese) - finger length - to taste. You stick fishing steel 3-4 cm long into the end - it can be thicker and thinner. 0.1 - 0.15 mm. This is for the fishermen. One meter is enough for 10 years of work.
The very tip with one blow of a hammer (through a punch or a hard piece of iron) is splashed on a hard anvil. You get a little spatula. You make 3-4 of these with different blade sizes and different steel diameters. This will replace butter dosing. As anvils, I use either a roller made of a large bearing or carbide plates for a lathe - your way to the flea market or to friends in the workshop.
In approximately the same way - they will come in handy for a start - sticks with ordinary sewing needles - while the hands are frightened and there are no good tweezers - to expose the details (gears in stones, screws, etc.) is an auxiliary tool.
Surgical clamps. Different. Very handy as small and strong pliers. They are usually bought on occasion at a flea market.
Dental spatulas. It is convenient to use in all cases as an auxiliary tool.
Enema. Rubber. From the pharmacy. Big. Blow off dust. The tip must be rubber.
Butter. Or in the workshop (if they don't beat you, although they usually look like rams and pretend that they don't understand what you are talking about at all and are trying to get you off as quickly as possible). Or maybe at a radio store - in the same place where solder and acid are sold. Oil MN-30, MN-45 or watch oil. Although it is not aerobatics, it will go for a start.
It is better to keep it in a dark heavy box - and the sun will not burn and there is less chance that it will turn over.
To open the cases - a large, broken medical tweezers. It is clear that this is not kosher - but it is also possible. Likewise - an old caliper. You just need to correct the edges of the jaws - so that they are more rectangular.
Scalpel - opening of enclosures.
Binocular loupe. It is relatively inexpensive, but without it it is better not even to start. Or photographic goods (classic - where telescopes and binoculars are sold) or a radio bazaar. There are different strengths. If you have money, take two. One is 1.5 times, one is the strongest one sold - it seems up to 2.5 times. They can be sold with an elastic band - you will have to redo them to fit a hard bezel. You can go and talk to the optics workshop - glasses. Maybe they will offer something like pince-nez. Regarding ordinary magnifiers - to my taste - I rarely use them. It turned out to be extremely useful for cutting off the baby's nails - they were not visible at all for the first six months, but it was necessary to cut them off.
Binocular - microscope. Yes. Old. Look. The oldest is MBS-1. It is with a straight image - not upside down - which is what we see. It should cost within $ 50. A very useful thing. In every way. Up to the point that you rip the scrap out of your finger. But this is on occasion and over time. MBS-10 or OGMZ is steeper - the distance from the object to the eyepiece is greater, it is clear that it is more expensive. But all the same, an ordinary screwdriver does not fit under the MBS-10 - it must be shortened. Although on the Site of the Lytkarinsky plant - the manufacturer of MBS-10, there is a link that they sell lenses for MBS-10 with a distance to the object - about 19 cm.This can be a good solution if we got MBS-10. Everything between MBS-1 and MBS-9 is the same. Over time, the lens can be altered by yourself. You take what is cheaper. It's closer to the flea market. The only thing is that it is desirable that there is an illuminator (transformer + light bulb).
All that is further from the instrument - only after evisceration for 4-5 hours.
Where to get a watch - make yourself a fashion to be at a flea market - everything floats there. Often they simply sell mechanisms there. For instance:
When you warm up a little - after buying a binocular microscope - there is also a radio bazaar, shops with tools - they usually sell ultrasonic cleaners. But here is also the question - is it necessary. 50 years before that they did not use them - they took a bath and washed the parts with a brush in gasoline. You can do it, but the weight is not bad. Should cost in the range of $ 50-80. Denatured alcohol and Galosha gasoline were poured into an ultrasound of 30 watts. Working. Does not flash. Washes like a beast, but all the same, sometimes you have to rip something off with a toothpick. At the bazaar, they say that 30-watt sinks - indestructible - work without problems and there is no return due to marriage. If the model is the same as in the figure - what should be done after purchase - disassemble completely (there may be moisture inside, one of the indicators is stylish clicks when working against a background of uniform sound), squeeze the metal tank out of the case and put it back on the Auto Sealant (white , ours, not on transparent silicone). Plumbing does not work - it is highly corrosive. One of the indicators of plumbing is a strong vinegar smell.
Yes, I forgot, a flea market - look for Petri dishes - or maybe in a pharmacy or in a laboratory at a hospital. But you are not their client - there is an expensive flea market - this is the very thing. These are flat round glass or plastic low trays - for details. They are cheap. Take 5 pieces for the current dismantling works. I like glass more - they are heavier, fidget less on the table.
Then, for convenience, in the offices that make business cards, you can sometimes roll up and buy boxes for business cards. Wholesale will cost within $ 0.30 pcs. Transparent ones are also a very convenient thing - but this is for longer storage.
Silica gel. Small bags that are put into new fashionable shoes, equipment, computer components. Absorbs water. It must be dried either in the microwave or at a good temperature - in an electric oven.Gas does not pass - when the gas burns, water is released. After drying, the bag is placed in a box in which small tools and spare parts are stored for a long time so that they do not rust.
Radio bazaar. Snap-on pouches - they sell in the hundreds. Size 4 X 6 cm. Place watches and small items. They are usually packed with small pieces that are sold in the bazaar.
To begin with, the wristwatch can be laid down on the grinder mesh during disassembly. Then you yourself will determine what you need and how it is more convenient for you. The stand can be machined out of brass. Should be heavy enough.
Take a coil from any old starter from electricians - try asking for 380 V. If not, by 220 V. You attach the wires - the demagnetizer is ready. Turn on only for a short time - it gets warm.
About a new instrument. It is not always worth the money. Think how to get out with what you have. It is needed if you make a living with this and the customer pays for everything. If this is a hobby, then not first of all. Calculate the costs like this: I quit smoking (and drinking) and all the savings are on the tool. In this case, it is really a hobby and a useful pastime.
Now the steepness has gone. Machine.
Option 2. High-speed car. 10,000 revolutions. We sharpen with a diamond file. It may well be. There are eagles who did something in this way. But as for me - this is not very correct. If sharpen then sharpen.
Considering the above - if you do not sharpen the axes how to fry pies - then for a non-professional watchmaker-turner, it would be more expedient to take a small-sized precision universal machine. I would say that 20% of the work is axle turning (or even less), 80% is the turning of screws and body parts, various secondary milling work.
Examples I would name the following:
Collet chuck, native collets. On top is a milling corner. A part of the caliper is attached to it and we get a "milling cutter".
- new - Proxxon PD-230 / E, including a milling attachment or FF-230 router. Search on There they even have a price list in the power tool section - that is, they really do it.
Regarding the old MD-65. Axes 0.1 sharpens. Doesn't hit. Any additional clarifications are superfluous.
Now for the next topic. Okay. We got a machine. Well kva. We have a type of computer in the form of a processor, monitor and keyboard. But all this locomotive also needs software. Windows-2000 or Windows-XP and for tough peppers Linux will do. So, the fun begins. Software often costs more than hardware. It's the same story with machine tools. We need fixtures and additional tools. I think that an approximate set of additional accessories for the machine will cost no less than the machine costs. We are now talking about turning + milling. I ended up with MD-65 with a milling angle plate - a milling cutter is clamped in the machine chuck, and the support is turned over like a milling table, only a vertical one + milling vise. The arrows on it are milled. Cut the slots in the screws too.
- incisors - at least a hundred. Fits well in old wooden school boxes.
For precise sharpened incisors, old boxes from under grandmother's silver spoons go very well - incisors are more expensive than spoons, they will not break.
- collets and collet chuck. I have 2 sets - one is native to MD-65 (3-13 mm), the second set is Lorsch (hour, 0-6 mm).
This is in the machine, Lorsch in the adapter.
- indicators. 0.01 and 0.001. It is clear that various attachments are needed for them. Often you have to do the fasteners yourself.
- center detectors - 0.01. Without it, there is simply nothing to do on the machine.
- binocular microscope. Without words. We have already talked about this above.
- 4-jaw chuck. With split jaw release.
- sharpener - sharpen the cutters roughly
- diamond wheels - sharpen cutters precisely
- rotary vise (horizontal rotary system) - drill holes in precisely specified places. Screw holes in the rim of the transparent case back. It is hand drilled. It can be seen that the screws are jumping.
- dividing head. Or with discs or vernier. Cutting gears. Or at least make a square.
- I'm not talking about cutters. And end and for gears. The thickness of the disc cutters - from 0.1-0.15 - is the thickness of the "Neva" blade.
- the measuring tool is for rough work
- and for precise ones - only optics
- then you need to look at what is needed already for the work being performed. You will have to do a lot yourself. To invent a lot. Very often, for the manufacture of one part, it takes more time to make a clamp in order to clamp this part into the machine.
Foil trimming - making a "disk" arrow. Materials at hand.
Now the conversation is where and how to organize all this. It should be dry. Dust free. Not on the head of the family - the family should know that it is yours - and no matter what you do there - they have no entrance there. And there is nothing to howl about the noise from the workshop. Their comments are inappropriate (oh, it's dirty, oh, it stinks with gasoline).
One type I saw a German machine - the type of our school. More precisely, only pre-war. He mounted it under the kitchen table. In the center of the table is a shelf with a machine on it. The top board of the table rises - like in old school desks. He lowered the board, put the tablecloth in place and crumble the onion with the sausage. All the same, there will be no big turning works at home - everything is some kind of small piece.
If the conversation is about a large workshop or a more serious occupation in the restoration business for the soul, then in addition to the small machine, you need to look towards the larger machine - a school one (I don’t want to name the type - there are many different ones), a horizontal milling NGF-110 and a muffle furnace - this is for more rough work and the manufacture of devices. It is clear that all this also needs a trailer of devices and tools. Photo of the basement in the country.
If you can order or buy somewhere, look towards the rollers. They can be quite expensive. Sometimes they help out a lot. Especially in the manufacture of new parts, arrows and shims for lathe cutters.
As a conclusion, let's say this - this process is endless. In one sensible book on choosing a watch lathe, there was a good idea, completely applicable in our case - we are all mortal. All these tools are of interest only to us. Personally. There is no need to expect that someone after us will continue with fire in their eyes what we have begun. The whole instrument must be bought on the basis that after us, our grateful descendants die of all this rubbish and faster. They can also be thrown into the trash. They need a place for a geranium! We need to make sure that they can get more for it, slowly and confidently to all these numerous relatives and posterity, it is necessary to explain that all this is expensive and on this in distant times it will be possible to earn something. And accordingly, if you already buy, then buy a liquid instrument, which will have a price even in 50 years. This is on the one hand. On the other hand, we are all working now. We earn something. This is exactly the right time to prepare for yourself a range of activities for a time when our earnings will decrease, that is, retirement. Good luck.
In the race to the podium of success, watch firms are skillfully waging a stubborn competition among themselves, each year offering the consumer new variants of watch design, new, more and more perfect mechanisms. However, there is no perfection, and every medal has two sides. For the sake of cheapening and simplifying production in watch movements, plastic parts, light alloys, etc. are increasingly used. The downside of this is a decrease in the reliability of the watch.
We decided to talk about the possible causes of breakdowns and the characteristic shortcomings of common watch movements. Of course, such articles are intended, first of all, for young, novice watchmakers, but in practice there are often cases when even serious masters, not knowing some of the nuances of the mechanisms, make ridiculous mistakes.
The ETA movement (caliber 2836) was created with durability and reliability in mind, and, in general, there are few complaints about it. It must be remembered that when disassembling the mechanism, the accuracy of the mainspring release deserves special attention, since the thin and well-hardened axles of the wheels cannot withstand dynamic loads. Violation of the accuracy of the runner balance, as a rule, is associated with the thickening of oil on the pallets. Conclusion: it is necessary to thoroughly wash the escapement fork, escape wheel and balance bushons, then the accuracy of the course can be easily restored. It is necessary to pull out the winding shaft when disassembling the watch in the “winding” position, gently pressing on the extractor pin with a special device shaped like a screwdriver, and in no case with tweezers, as this can break the hardened end of the extractor. If the grease of the friction wheel of the minute wheel has thickened or dried out, then when the hands are shifted, the teeth of the bill wheel often break. These are, perhaps, all the disadvantages of this model. The ETA women's movement (caliber 2671) is almost identical to the men's movement, and all of the above applies equally to it. At the same time, when assembling, it is important to give oil exactly according to the instructions.
It should also be remembered that ETA mechanisms are available in various designs; there are mechanisms both with a standard frequency of balance oscillations, and with a rapid stroke. This determines some of the design features. So, balances have spirals with different characteristics, forks - different angles of inclination of pallets, and anchor wheels differ in the number of teeth. Therefore, when ordering parts, it is necessary to pay attention to specific types of mechanisms.
One of the most popular imported watches in our country is the Orient mechanical watch with the 46943 movement and its modifications. They are quite simple, reliable and unpretentious. Their main disadvantages are a sharp change in stroke accuracy and breakdown of the calendar system. If the watch suddenly began to rush sharply (sometimes up to several hours a day) or, conversely, lag incredibly behind, then the reason, as a rule, lies in the adhesion of the balance hair (this is typical even for new watches). It is necessary to flush the balance assembly, and the watch will continue to walk calmly and confidently. The calendar system is more complicated: the watch is especially sensitive to the forced switching of the number and days of the week from about 22 to 4 in the morning, since the Orient calendar system is not instantaneous and consists of plastic wheels. The weak point is the levers for switching days of the week, they have a large free travel, an inaccurate fit and an unnecessarily complex and therefore unreliable configuration. Therefore, the levers often come off, jamming the calendar mechanism, which sometimes leads to breakage of plastic wheels.
The main problem with self-winding is the wear of the bearing eccentric axis. This design flaw is often aggravated by the low culture of handling the watches of their owners. For some reason, people understand the need for an annual technical inspection of their car, but they come to the workshop with the watch only when they have already hopelessly “got up”. And the last thing about Orient - the watch is afraid of side impacts. Sometimes the struts pressed into the platinum, on which the bridge is attached, do not stand up and fly out of the seats, although, as practice shows, the wheel axles do not break at the same time.
Women's Orient is presented in several modifications of calibers 55841 and 55941. They have almost all the same drawbacks, except, perhaps, automatic winding problems, since the sector has a lower mass, and the bearing axle wears out much less. However, the mechanism is more capricious (like everything feminine!), More often the axles of the escapement and intermediate wheels break. In the earlier mechanism 55841, the number transfer lever often breaks, the shank of which, falling into the mechanism, causes it to stop. The tip of the pull lever can be overheated, which breaks when the crown is pulled out sharply and forcefully from the case.In addition, the screws fastening the mechanism to the case are often pulled off, which, in turn, can cause other breakdowns.
Andrey Babanin, Alexander Semenov Journal HOUR BUSINESS №6
03.06.2001
In the race to the podium of success, watch firms are skillfully waging a stubborn competition among themselves, each year offering the consumer new variants of watch design, new, more and more perfect mechanisms. However, there is no perfection, and every medal has two sides. For the sake of cheapening and simplifying production in watch movements, plastic parts, light alloys, etc. are increasingly used. The downside of this is a decrease in the reliability of the watch.
We decided to talk about the possible causes of breakdowns and the characteristic shortcomings of common watch movements. Of course, such articles are intended, first of all, for young, novice watchmakers, but in practice there are often cases when even serious masters, not knowing some of the nuances of the mechanisms, make ridiculous mistakes.
The ETA movement (caliber 2836) was created with durability and reliability in mind, and, in general, there are few complaints about it. It must be remembered that when disassembling the mechanism, the accuracy of the mainspring release deserves special attention, since the thin and well-hardened axles of the wheels cannot withstand dynamic loads. Violation of the accuracy of the runner balance, as a rule, is associated with the thickening of oil on the pallets. Conclusion: it is necessary to thoroughly wash the escapement fork, escape wheel and balance bushons, then the accuracy of the course can be easily restored. It is necessary to pull out the winding shaft when disassembling the watch in the “winding” position, gently pressing on the extractor pin with a special device shaped like a screwdriver, and in no case with tweezers, as this can break the hardened end of the extractor. If the grease of the friction wheel of the minute wheel has thickened or dried out, then when the hands are shifted, the teeth of the bill wheel often break. These are, perhaps, all the disadvantages of this model. The ETA women's movement (caliber 2671) is almost identical to the men's movement, and all of the above applies equally to it. At the same time, when assembling, it is important to give oil exactly according to the instructions.
It should also be remembered that ETA mechanisms are available in various designs; there are mechanisms both with a standard frequency of balance oscillations, and with a rapid stroke. This determines some of the design features. So, balances have spirals with different characteristics, forks - different angles of inclination of pallets, and anchor wheels differ in the number of teeth. Therefore, when ordering parts, it is necessary to pay attention to specific types of mechanisms.
One of the most popular imported watches in our country is the Orient mechanical watch with the 46943 movement and its modifications. They are quite simple, reliable and unpretentious. Their main disadvantages are a sharp change in stroke accuracy and breakdown of the calendar system. If the watch suddenly began to rush sharply (sometimes up to several hours a day) or, conversely, lag incredibly behind, then the reason, as a rule, lies in the adhesion of the balance hair (this is typical even for new watches). It is necessary to flush the balance assembly, and the watch will continue to walk calmly and confidently. The calendar system is more complicated: the watch is especially sensitive to the forced switching of the number and days of the week from about 22 to 4 in the morning, since the Orient calendar system is not instantaneous and consists of plastic wheels. The weak point is the levers for switching days of the week, they have a large free travel, an inaccurate fit and an unnecessarily complex and therefore unreliable configuration. Therefore, the levers often come off, jamming the calendar mechanism, which sometimes leads to breakage of plastic wheels.
The main problem with self-winding is the wear of the bearing eccentric axis. This design flaw is often aggravated by the low culture of handling the watches of their owners.For some reason, people understand the need for an annual technical inspection of their car, but they come to the workshop with the watch only when they have already hopelessly “got up”. And the last thing about Orient - the watch is afraid of side impacts. Sometimes the struts pressed into the platinum, on which the bridge is attached, do not stand up and fly out of the seats, although, as practice shows, the wheel axles do not break at the same time.
Women's Orient is presented in several modifications of calibers 55841 and 55941. They have almost all the same drawbacks, except, perhaps, automatic winding problems, since the sector has a lower mass, and the bearing axle wears out much less. However, the mechanism is more capricious (like everything feminine!), More often the axles of the escapement and intermediate wheels break. In the earlier mechanism 55841, the number transfer lever often breaks, the shank of which, falling into the mechanism, causes it to stop. The tip of the pull lever can be overheated, which breaks when the crown is pulled out sharply and forcefully from the case. In addition, the screws fastening the mechanism to the case are often pulled off, which, in turn, can cause other breakdowns.
How to replace the battery (accumulator) in a watch with your own hands (Casio, Citizen, QQ, Seiko, Orient) (video)
Despite our striving for the best, perfect and progressive, we still sometimes stop at classic solutions. When it seems like anachronism becomes a kind of our symbol of conservatism, and sometimes an indicator of our character, and sometimes also wealth. If you still haven’t guessed what we are, then we are talking about wrist watches. Indeed, since the time when Breguet invented the wristwatch in Far 1775, so much time and events have passed that none of those living today has. Cities and whole countries appeared and disappeared where they appeared from. It was a kind of smile of fate and history, which was sometimes unfavorable to the interests of thousands and millions. But look at the wristwatch. Despite all the twists and turns, the emergence of modern gadgets, phones and tablets, in our society, watches can still often be found on the wrists of our contemporaries.
Let's just say that the same brand of Breguet wrist watches can cost tens and hundreds of dollars and no less. And that's why we mentioned wealth here when we started our story. But here we will tell you about something simpler and more mundane, and not about the history of watches and watch secrets, but rather about how to replace the battery in a watch. But first, about what watch it can be done with ...
Despite the fact that the purpose of each of the options for replacing the battery in the watch will be to remove the battery itself, and then replace it with a new one. This is often done in different ways. It's all about the design features of the back cover, which protects the watch mechanism. It is for the various options for fastening the back cover of the watch that we will give our examples of replacing the battery in them.
Example of replacing the battery on a wristwatch for a screw cap
Let's start with not the most common, but quite possible option. So, screw caps are used on inexpensive electronic watches. These covers are usually not rigid and are fixed at 4 points. This means that they are used on water resist watches and no more. That is, when you can only wash your hands in the watch, but not swim in any way. An example will be given for the Aqua watch. The QQ watch, which is a division of Citizen, is also found in the same case. So, the first step is to "open the bracelet", that is, make it so that it is divided into two halves. This will help to work seamlessly with the back of the watch, that is, remove the cover from it and replace the battery. How to “open” the bracelet can be found in the article “How to adjust, shorten the strap on the watch”.
Next, take a small watch screwdriver and unscrew the fasteners.
We carefully clean up the screws so as not to lose them.If they disappear, then you probably won't buy them in the store.
Open the cover and unscrew the contact that holds the battery. In this case, this is a diagonal mount. We also clean up the screw and move the plate - contact to the side.
Now we remove the battery and insert a new one.
We put everything in reverse order. As a result, we set the time and use our electronic clock for several more years.
Example of replacing the battery on a wristwatch for a flip cover
Also, first of all, we "open" the watch bracelet, we have already talked about this operation in the example above. And then we proceed to the opening of the watch.
The only significant difference from the previous version will be only that the cover is removed in a different way. It is like a lid on a jar of pickles, held by a tightness between the body and the lid itself, while there is a seal between them, which just creates the tightness. This is usually a plastic O-ring. So, we pry the edge of the lid with a knife or something similar to the blade of a knife and try to take it aside.
Some covers have a special drip, which will help to better hook onto the cover, but this design feature is not found everywhere.
Then you can pry and remove the battery.
If you get in the way of elements, such as a plastic insert, which is also a buffer against the impact of the mechanism. It can be removed, but do not forget to reinstall it when assembling the watch.
When reassembling the watch, there is only one problem.
Since the cover is installed with an interference fit, in order to put it in place, it will be necessary to secure it. In this case, the lid will seem to slam shut, from the applied effort. Sometimes the fingers are enough for this and nothing more. But if you come across a "harmful" watch, then you will have to press the cover to the last, while it is important not to damage the glass, especially if it is spherical, and even more so if it is also plexiglass.
In this case, you can come up with a simple device for the clock, from two plugs. Let's say soda traffic jams. We put the watch in such a way that it is self-centered, while the effort is evenly distributed. After these conditions are met, it will be possible to press on the watch until the lid is closed completely.
Now it also remains to set the time and use the watch for a few more years.
An example of replacing the battery on a wristwatch for a twist-off cover
Do not forget, as in the previous two cases, to "open" the bracelet so that it does not interfere with removing the cover and changing the battery. Since the lid is unscrewed, by itself, according to the logic of things, it will need to be unscrewed. The cover is always unscrewed counterclockwise. We have not encountered any exceptions. It is best to use a specialized tool such as a adjustable adjustable wrench.
But not everyone has such a key. Therefore, we suggest using handy methods. For example, a vernier caliper can fit perfectly, this is the best option from handy tools.
If not, then try with tweezers or long-jawed pliers. Immediately, we note that in this case, the likelihood of scratching the watch lid increases many times.
The fact is that the absence of a rigid fixation between the pivot points, through which force is applied to the lid for unscrewing, provokes rolling, and therefore suggests an unpleasant outcome with the appearance of scratches. So, the best option is either a specialized wrench or a vernier caliper.
We hold the watch case in the palm of our hand and unscrew the lid.
Further, everything is knurled. If necessary, unscrew the internal fasteners of the battery and remove it. When reassembling the cover, we install and tighten it first by hand, and then create an interference fit in the thread using the tool with which it was unscrewed. Do not overtighten the lid.She will not perceive any efforts, the only task is to create tightness, which, again, is ensured in most cases due to a soft standard seal.
When the battery, and for the average person the battery or the accumulator will run out, then this can be observed visually. So on the LCD screen of the watch, the symbols will become less clear, sometimes as if translucent. The backlight will also not work in "full light". If this is an analogue clock, then the hand may slip not by 1 division, but after a few. Seiko watches have such a function (end of life). Here is an example of such a watch.
In the end, a sign that the battery is dead will be a clock lag, but again this is only typical for electromechanical copies.
If you have removed the battery from the watch case, you can check it with a multimeter - a universal measuring device. So 1.5 volt batteries can work until the voltage drops in some cases to 0.5-0.7 volts. But a drop in voltage across the battery even by 30 percent, that is, up to 1 volt, already indicates that it must be replaced.
Here it is necessary to note about the other side of the coin. If you install a new battery, then in this case, it is possible that the clock starts to rush. This is quite likely for old watches, and here it is not even a matter of the battery, but of the fact that quartz wears out over time. By quartz, we mean a radio component that begins to emit a slightly overestimated number of pulses per microcircuit. As a result, the clock is in a hurry. Some of the electronic watches even have a calibration option that allows you to make adjustments to the movement of the watch. But this is an extremely rare option.
Second, use grease. Let's say lithol, for applying it to the cover seals. This will provide a higher tightness, water and dust protection. In this case, in no case apply it to the mechanism.
Third, be careful and careful. After all, one awkward and inept movement can ruin everything, a mechanism or an electrical board. As a result, replacing the battery will damage the watch itself.
If you are not confident in your abilities, or at the moment you are experiencing problems with the availability of any instrument, then it is better to entrust the watchmaker to replace the battery in your watch. In this case, there will be someone to ask from, in case of failure. But we do not think it will come to this, since replacing the battery is almost the most common service related to watches. Unless they come more often in order to shorten the length of the bracelet on the watch.
Hello everyone! The time has come to supplement and organize the information and knowledge describing your independent acquaintance with watch repair. We've been asked a lot and voila, take a note!
How to repair a mechanical wristwatch yourself. Instructions for beginners.
Dismantling the clockwork
As you know, the most common reasons for the failure of the watch mechanism, leading to their stop, are the following: drying out of the lubricant, contamination of internal parts, liquid entering the chronometer case, and others. Thus, it is often necessary to simply disassemble the watch in order to clean it or add lubricant.
However, before proceeding with disassembly, be sure to familiarize yourself in detail with the principle of the internal structure of a mechanical wristwatch, study the arrangement of their parts, such as: hands of hours (hour, minute, second); wheels (escapement, second, intermediate, central, drum, clockwork, transfer, bill, watch); tribes of all the listed wheels; springs (winding, pawl spring, lever lock); levers (clockwork, translation); shafts (drum, clockwork), as well as a number of important internal parts - balance, pins, axles, drum, pawl, etc. In more detail, the principle of the clock mechanism is presented in the figure below.
1 - balance;
2 - double roller;
3 - balance axis;
4 - through stone;
5 and 6 — overhead and impulse galoshes;
7 - spear;
8 - restrictive pins;
9 - anchor plug;
10 - anchor fork axis;
11 and 12 — entry and exit flights;
13 - spiral;
14 - coil block;
15 and 16 - pins of the adjusting thermometer;
17 - escapement wheel;
18 - through stone;
19 - tribe of the escape wheel;
20 - second wheel;
21 - tribe of the second wheel;
22 - second hand;
23 - intermediate wheel;
24 - intermediate wheel tribe;
25 - central wheel;
26 - tribe of the central wheel;
27 - drum;
28 - winding spring;
29 - drum shaft;
30 - xiphoid overlay;
31 - drum wheel;
32 - dog;
33 - dog spring;
34 - cam clutch;
35 - winding wheel;
36 - clockwork tribe;
37 - clockwork shaft;
38 - translation lever;
39 - spring of the transfer lever (latch);
40 - wind-up lever;
41 - spring of the winding lever;
42 and 43 - transfer wheels;
44 - bill wheel;
45 - tribe of the bill wheel;
46 - hour wheel;
47 - hour hand;
48 - minute hand;
49 - minute hand tribe (minute)
Next, we will consider the sequence of actions when disassembling a mechanical wristwatch.
1. First of all, remove the cover from the back of the case (it is convenient to pry it off with the tip of a knife, or unscrew it, depending on the watch model). If the spring of the mechanism has burst, the wheels are bent or broken, the screws are loose - this will be seen immediately.
2. In the case when at first glance no malfunctions were found, it is necessary to carefully remove the movement from the chronometer case. To do this, perform the following manipulations:
- release the winding spring: pull the pawl with the crown to the moment of winding (extreme position) and, while supporting it with tweezers, gently turn the crown with your fingers;
- remove the winding shaft by setting it to the position of shifting the hour hands and loosening the screw of the shifting lever;
- remove the chronometer mechanism from the case by returning the winding shaft to its original position.
It is worth noting that there are models of wristwatches where the device of the case allows you to remove the movement without removing the winding shaft.
3. Using tweezers, check how freely the central wheel rotates, whether it touches other parts of the watch mechanism.
Likewise, check that the balance, drum and spiral are working correctly.
4. Remove the clock hands, take out the released dial. First remove the second hand, then the minute hand using tweezers. Next, take out the dial, paying attention to its legs, complete with an hour hand and a wheel (hour). Carefully examine the condition of the switch mechanism: inspect the hour and bill wheels, check the wheel adhesion (by rotating them both in forward and reverse directions).It is also necessary to make sure that the winding and shifting levers are correctly locked.
5. After that, proceed to removing the balance bridge from the platinum (together with the balance unit) - unscrew the screw of the spiral column by about one and a half to two turns, which will allow the bridge and the balance unit to be disconnected. When removing the balance from the movement, do not let it hang from the end of the spiral.
6. Dismantle the anchor and anchor bridge with the winding spring fully deflated.
7. Now remove the wheels (center, intermediate, second and escapement). Be sure to check their location on the axles, inspect the teeth, pay attention to the engagement of the wheels with the corresponding gears.
8. Remove the drum from the platinum, open it, inspect the mainspring, assessing its condition.
Cleaning the mechanism
The parts of the watch mechanism are washed mainly with gasoline, preferably in a transparent glass vessel, while the level of the "cleaner" should be no more than two centimeters. Rinse the relatively large parts (such as bridges, platinum) first, followed by the wheels and other small parts of the movement.
Dirt from parts can be easily removed with a brush, and hard-to-reach grooves can be cleaned using a pointed stick. The cleaned parts of the mechanism must be blown out with a directed air jet (using a rubber bulb). You need to take clean parts only with tweezers.
Assembling the clockwork
It is necessary to assemble a wrist mechanical watch in the reverse order to that discussed above.
The most common causes of clockwork malfunction and how to fix them are:
1. The wrist watch emits a crackling sound when winding up. The main reason for this phenomenon can be called a breakdown of the winding wheel, or its deterioration. How
in the first and in the second case, the only way out is to replace the wheel. Also, the culprit for such a crackling can be: wheel skew (easy to fix by tightening the screws); the winding shaft is bent or skewed (the shaft needs to be replaced); contamination of the winding wheel axle (in this case, flushing the part will help).
2. With a tight translation of the arrows, it is most likely necessary to replace the translation wheel, since this malfunction can be explained by a factory defect.
3. In the event that the movement does not switch from the mode of transferring the hands to the factory, it is necessary to make sure whether the winding lever has been clamped and, if this happened, bend the lever. Also, the reason may be a weakening of the spring of the winding lever (the problem is solved by replacing such a spring).
4. Spontaneous shutdown of the winding mechanism indicates that the part of the spring, which should fix the shifting lever, has moved away from its place. It is necessary to bend the spring down and return it to the groove.
5. The main evidence of the curvature of the winding shaft can be considered its intermittent, uneven rotation (the problem is solved by replacing the shaft or straightening it).
6. The spring does not hold in the winding condition. If the reason is the breakage of the spring of the pawl - it needs to be replaced, if the screw of the pawl is simply unscrewed - carefully tighten it.
7. A tight spring winding indicates a lack of lubrication on the winding wheel.
8. It is not possible to wind the watch - most likely, the winding spring does not catch on the hook located on the drum shaft, or there is damage on its first inner coil (burst).
9. When winding up the watch, you feel that at first the spring is tight, with effort, and then it breaks off abruptly - this indicates damage to its first or second coil (burst).
10. If the minute hand touches any point of the watch dial or the glass part of the case, we can talk about the bent axis of the central wheel.
eleven.A malfunction such as non-rotating hands when the clock mechanism is running can arise from too frequent approach of the hands and signal the need to replace the minute watch with a driving wheel (friction unit).
12. Broken (bent) teeth on the bill wheel can cause a crackling sound when moving the clock hands. In this case, the wheel must be replaced (straightened).
13. Rapid rotation of the hands when winding the movement indicates a breakdown of one of the wheels of the wheel system. Inspect the entire system carefully, replace the defective wheel.
14. Wheels in the system cling to each other, rotate with difficulty - check all the gaps between them, as well as whether there are any contaminated elements in the system.
15. When winding up your watch, have you noticed that the mainspring is constantly spinning? This indicates its breakdown and the need to replace it with a new one.
16. "Haste" of the watch, accompanied by a knock, indicates that the winding spring is too strong (should be replaced).
17. When fully wound, the watch stops early. The reason for such a malfunction must be sought in the excessive amount of grease in the drum, due to which the spring slips in it. You can fix the problem by rinsing the drum in gasoline and thoroughly wiping the spring (tissue paper works well for this). In addition, there is a possibility that the spring head has worn out - replace it.
18. If your watch runs sluggishly, check the lubrication of the spring and carefully inspect it (if it is wrinkled).
19. Difficulty winding the movement can be an indicator of insufficient (lack) lubrication at the point where the spring touches the drum. The spring should be lubricated.
20. If during the operation of the watch you can hear the tinkling of the spiral, it means that it touches the parts of the mechanism closest to it, which must be eliminated.
21. Incorrect operation of the calendar can be due to several reasons:
- the calendar disc gets stuck on the plate due to its deformation (disc replacement is desirable);
- dust or shavings on the disc interfere with its free rotation (it is necessary to clean it);
- screws that are used to fasten the disc are poorly tightened (tighten);
- excess, or, conversely, insufficient lubrication of the pins of the retainer and pusher.
22. If the watch wheel is clamped by the dial, bend it.
23. The dial of the watch is unstable (wobbles) due to poor-quality fastening in the platinum, or because of a broken leg - tighten the dial screws securely (if it does not help, the dial should be replaced).
24. To get rid of the offset of the dial (located off-center), it is necessary to bend its legs and set the dial in the correct position.
25. When the arrows touch each other, they must be set correctly.
26. The clockwork is unstable, wobbles in the case - tighten the fastening screws.
27. In the event that there is no fixation of the winding key for supplying the hands or winding the spring, check if the shifting lever or the catch (lever spring) is out of order. With such a breakdown, the lever must be replaced. If the check showed that the lever is working properly, tighten its screws until it stops.
If the clock has stopped without any causal relationship, pay attention to:
- the correctness of the hitch of the minute and the drive wheel (if it is weak, remove the minute from the wheel rim, clamp the wheel with tweezers, then bend the friction petals towards the center; if these actions did not help, it is desirable to replace the entire assembly as a whole);
- carefully inspect the teeth of the clock wheel (if any tooth is deformed or broken, it is better to change the wheel);
- completely check the wheel system of the clockwork for the presence of dust or dirt in it, as well as the ingress of any broken screw (if dirty - wash the mechanism);
- corrosion on the wheels of the system can also cause the watch to stop (if it is not possible to remove the corrosion deposit, the best way out is to replace them);
- the stop can be caused by sheared or bent teeth of the watch drum (it is necessary to change the drum and the mainspring), or chips and dust accumulated inside the drum (it is eliminated by washing the drum in gasoline, wiping the spring with paper);
- the constantly changing (or sluggish) movement of a wristwatch, including stopping it, may be caused by insufficient clearance in the details of the escapement movement, in particular, between such elements of the movement as pins and anchor plug.
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We hope that after reading this article, you have discovered something new and interesting for yourself.
And remember, if you are the owner of one of the watches that we talk about on our website and feel that they need repairs or maintenance, or you just want to get professional advice from highly qualified watchmakers in the city of Samara, feel free to contact us.
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to repair the following types of watches for you:
- old mechanical (the possibility of repair is determined by the master at the time of inspection);
- wall-mounted (the possibility of repair is determined by the master at the time of inspection);
- floor;
- desktop;
- Pocket;
- wrist;
- and even electronic-mechanical and quartz.
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