DIY repair of cast iron heating boilers

The technology for eliminating damage to the sections of a cast-iron heat exchanger is dictated by its design. Repair problem is being solved replacement of the boiler section ... The heat exchanger is a prefabricated structure. The elements are assembled into a single unit by means of accessories (conical connecting nipples). Violation of the integrity of one of the sections leads to the failure of the entire device. What are the causes of destructive deformations and heat exchanger leakage?

A little theory - what phenomena cause the destruction of the heat exchanger?

Cast iron heating devices are more durable than steel counterparts. Cast iron corrodes less in the aquatic environment. So gas boilers from this material almost do not rust. However, cast iron (as opposed to steel) is more sensitive to local temperature peaks. The preservation of the physical properties of the structure is negatively affected by the effect of cold water on the heated metal.

The listed situations arise when the service rules are violated:

Clogging of the device leads to overheating of individual small areas of the cast-iron surface.

Make-up for working gas boiler cold coolant creates a temperature contrast.

Incorrect adjustment of the burner violates the overall thermal regime.

These phenomena lead to the appearance of the so-called. "Heat shock" of the metal. As a result, one or more elements are deformed relative to others or simply burst.

A common breakdown during operation is a leaking device. There may be several reasons for this: a microcrack in the body of the structure, drying of the sealing sealant. Then the need arises replacement of the cast iron boiler section ... For repairs, it is better to invite specialists from a service organization. Such companies carry out repairs on a regular basis. They have a professional tool for assembling the devices.

The repair is carried out in stages. It begins with the diagnosis of the body of the structure and ends with testing and commissioning. Intermediate operations:

Dismantling of the casing and sectional disassembly;

Replacing the boiler section and screed of all elements;

Connecting the device to the heating system;

For diagnostics, the device is stopped. After cooling, dismantle the casing and the thermal insulation layer. The nature of the damage and the number of compartments to be replaced are determined visually. If the leak is caused by a microcrack, and the location of the defect cannot be immediately detected, the water pressure is increased to 2 kg and left for a day.

Splitting into sections is accurately done mechanically.

In this case, they try to hit only the defective element.

Followed by replacement of sections of a cast iron boiler ... Neighboring damaged elements are inspected for timely detection of debris. They are washed or replaced with new ones. Sometimes the craftsmen decide to assemble the unit and then rinse it with water and chemical reagents.

Before the screed, all contact surfaces of the elements with each other are thoroughly cleaned. The path of passage of the coolant is sealed with new nipples and lubricated with a special paste. After replacement of the boiler section the smoke path is also sealed. To do this, cover the joints with mastic or pull them together with cords.

The screed is performed using a special tool.

It is very important to avoid skewing and to connect the sections precisely.

When replacing several elements, they are added to the assembled structure strictly one at a time.

In the next step, the device is connected to the system and needs to be pressurized.For this operation, it is supplied with the maximum pressure allowed by the manufacturer. For each model, this parameter is indicated in the passport.

Repair of a cast iron heat exchanger required without an obvious violation of integrity. When the pressure of the coolant regularly drops in the device and it often has to be replenished with water. The reason for this behavior of the boiler is hidden in the appearance of microcracks in the furnace. At high temperatures, the liquid has time to evaporate and is removed with flue gases. Unstable work is a good reason to contact the service department.

The company "CLIMATIC" provides services for the maintenance and repair of cast iron boilers KChM, Universal as well as cast iron boilers of foreign manufacturers - VIESSMANN, BUDERUS, PROTHERM, DAKON, VIADRUS, MORA and others. Deep knowledge and vast experience of our employees working on this equipment, the availability of professional tools, original consumables and spare parts allow us to be confident in the quality of work.

Replacement of sections in boilers KChM, Universal-RT

Replacement of heat exchanger sections of boilers VIESSMANN, BUDERUS, PROTHERM, DAKON, MORA, etc.

Repair of boilers Universal-6M, Universal-5M.

In what case is it necessary to replace a section of a cast iron boiler?

Over time, the heat exchanger wears out, corrosion and scale do their job. However, its complete replacement of the heat exchanger is impractical, since individual sections usually fail, then the replacement of the cast-iron section of the boiler, in which a crack appears, is required. Repair of the section does not give the desired effect - due to constant temperature expansion of cast iron, the welded seam collapses after a short time.

In some cases, a crack can only be detected during boiler diagnostics. Therefore, for a certain time, the technique is used with the presence of a crack, which increases the destruction. Moreover, if you do not want the boiler to fail completely, then the problem must be solved immediately after detection.

The cost of replacing a section of a cast iron boiler

The cost of replacing a section of a cast iron boiler depends on the model of your equipment, its capacity, and the complexity of the work performed. The final price can be determined only after a visual inspection of the place of work by the master.

Is it possible to independently replace a section of a cast iron boiler?

Some equipment owners are trying to replace the section of the cast-iron boiler on their own. However, here they face a number of problems:

• How to disconnect a damaged section of a cast iron boiler from a package of sections.
• How to seal the joints between the sections to be installed.
• How not to damage adjacent sections and the package of sections as a whole.
• How to do the whole range of work without a special tool.
• How correctly, without distortions and overvoltage of the entire heat exchanger, pull off the package of sections.

Self-repair of a cast-iron sectional heat exchanger is quite problematic - as a rule, there is no necessary tool, there are no skills for such work. Despite the seeming simplicity of the process, there are frequent cases of damage to a new section due to improper installation, as well as damage to adjacent, previously whole sections. As a result, self-repair results in even higher costs than the involvement of a specialized installation organization.

Fast, high quality, reliable. With a guarantee!

We guarantee prompt and high-quality performance of the entire cycle of work on the replacement of sections on your boiler. The vast experience of carrying out belt work on cast-iron boilers of various capacities allows us to assert that the work will be performed efficiently and on time! The assembly team will independently deliver all the necessary spare parts and consumables to your site - and this will not in any way affect the cost of work, no additional payment for delivery.
After assembly and pressure testing of the heat exchanger, if no heavy lining device is required (Universal-6M boilers and similar), the boiler will be ready for normal operation.For the work performed, a guarantee from 6 to 12 months is provided, depending on the manufacturer of the boiler.

Added by: Dmitry Schwartz on February 9

Homemade heating boiler

In addition to buying heating boilers presented on the market by well-known and not very international or domestic manufacturers, there is always the opportunity to make a heating boiler with your own hands. And at the same time save on a whole list of options, without which your heating system may well do. All that is needed for this is knowledge of the device and the principle of operation of the type of boiler you have chosen, materials, tools and equipment, as well as practical skills in working with them.

Almost any type of heating boiler can be built if desired. The main thing is to make the right choice, and for this you need to know the main advantages and disadvantages of the most popular types of heating equipment. ANDso, heating boilers are:

It is not recommended to make boilers of this type on your own: technical requirements are imposed on gas equipment that you are unlikely to be able to satisfy in artisanal conditions.

Household electric boiler

The rather high popularity of this category of heating boilers is explained by the simplicity of the design and relatively low safety requirements during installation and operation.

A huge drawback of electric boilers is the high prices for electricity. As a result, such equipment is used to provide periodic heating, for example, a summer cottage or garage.

1. Liquid fuel

Homemade liquid fuel boiler

The design of such a boiler is not very complex. However, the cost and subtleties of adjusting the nozzles supplying fuel to the combustion chamber will make anyone think at least twice before starting to create a heating unit that runs on fuel oil or diesel.

1. Solid fuel

Diy long burning boiler

Representatives of this type are optimal for heating both private houses and various objects of objects of the commercial or industrial sector. High efficiency and versatility in application provide solid fuel boilers with the highest demand on the market.

According to the principle of operation, solid fuel boilers are distinguished into wood-burning, pyrolysis, long-burning and pellet boilers. The most popular option for self-production is long-burning boilers, while pyrolysis and pellet boilers are used much less often due to the high cost of individual components.

Several conditions affect the design of the heating boiler:

• cost and availability of materials;
• Type of fuel;
• way of circulation of the coolant.

Heat-resistant stainless steel demonstrates the greatest durability. However, it is she who has the highest price on the market, and her processing is a rather difficult task that cannot be dealt with without special equipment. The same applies to cast iron, which, however, is much cheaper than stainless steel. Traditionally, for the manufacture of heating boilers, sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm or more is used - this option is relatively easy to process and, most importantly, it is quite reliable and durable.

To ensure the natural circulation of the coolant, it is necessary to use heating circuits and connecting fittings of a large diameter, and place the storage tank at a height. If this is not possible, you will have to use a circulation pump - it will reduce the diameter of the pipes. However, the pumping system of the heating boiler is volatile, which must be taken into account when choosing the design and functionality of the unit.

The pipes that your boiler will be equipped with must have a diameter of at least 32 mm - a thick-walled steel pipe is suitable for their manufacture. The heating circuit should be made of galvanized steel, not forgetting about the sealing of the threaded connections.

Homemade wood-fired boiler

The cheapest option for self-manufacturing is a wood-burning boiler. Structurally, such a unit is two containers placed one in the other. The inner one serves as a firebox, the outer one serves as a heating tank. The design of a wood-burning boiler is really simple, and it can work not only with wood, but also with other types of solid fuel.

The wood-fired boiler design includes:

• steel firebox (with a door);
• ash pan (with a door);
• firebox grates;
• soot collector;
• chimney;
• gate valve;
• inlet and outlet branch pipes;
• legs;
• cast iron cover.

Solid fuel boiler device

A big minus of a wood-burning boiler is low efficiency, that is, a huge consumption of firewood or a constant lack of heat in the house.

Pyrolysis boilers are more expensive to manufacture: they have two combustion chambers - for fuel and for pyrolysis gas, and some of their components themselves are very expensive. Nevertheless, such equipment is in great demand due to its cost-effectiveness - it fully pays for itself during only 3-4 seasons.

The classic scheme of a pyrolysis boiler includes:

• combustion chamber with nozzle;
• gasification chamber;
• air supply system;
• chimney system;
• loading chamber;
• water heat exchanger;
• coolant circulation system;
• temperature and pressure sensors;
• regulating valve.

The principle of operation of the pyrolysis boiler

Pellet boilers were invented at the end of the 20th century. They operate on pressed sawdust, and their main principle of operation is to transfer heat from the gas released during the combustion of the latter, which heats the coolant in the heat exchanger.

Diy pellet heating boiler

The pellet boiler design includes:

• frame;
• a combustion chamber with an air window and a cleaning door;
• heat exchanger with a water circuit;
• smoke extractor;
• thermal insulation pad;
• automation of monitoring and control.

In pellet boilers, it is best to use cast iron heat exchangers: they have a higher heat transfer rate and are not subject to corrosion.

The main element of an electric heating unit is a thermoelectric heater (TEN) - it is necessary to convert electricity into heat. The body of the electric boiler can be made of any material, and the units necessary for its operation - regulators, sensors, etc. - can be bought at any specialized store.

Electric heating boiler device

Structurally, an electric boiler consists of:

• Heating element;
• expansion tank;
• circulation pump;
• safety valve;
• filtration unit.

The principle of operation of an electric heating boiler

The coolant in the system can circulate both naturally, for which it is necessary to provide for a height difference between the radiators and the boiler tank, and forced by means of a pump. The simplest version of an electric boiler is to install a heating element directly into the heating system. If such a design is not suitable, you can design an electric boiler with a removable pipe - this will make it possible to quickly get to the heating element if repair or replacement is necessary.

The optimal solution for heating, say, a small cottage is a separately located small electric boiler. The pipe of such a boiler will have a diameter of about 220 mm, and the length of the body will be no more than half a meter, which allows it to be installed almost anywhere, of course, taking into account safety rules.

The body of the electric boiler must be sealed. It is equipped with an opening for the heated coolant to enter the heating system, as well as a branch pipe for the return flow of cooled water.

In addition to solid fuel and electric boilers, a number of alternative heating units are suitable for self-production:

1. Induction boilers

They are transformers consisting of a primary and a secondary winding. In such a boiler, electricity on the outer winding is converted into an eddy current, and the created magnetic field is transferred to the inner one, which gives energy to the coolant.

1. Condensing boilers

They retain the thermal energy of condensate, therefore, they are considered more efficient than gas and even solid fuel ones. Steam condensation takes place in a heat exchanger with a special design - it is this design that provides such boilers with a 15-20% efficiency advantage over traditional gas equipment.

1. Oil-fired boilers

Such units evaporate mining, after which its vapors are burned. The energy obtained in this way is transferred to a heat exchanger, which heats up the heating agent of the heating system. Equipment of this type has two significant drawbacks - low efficiency and a large amount of emissions into the atmosphere.

1. Combined boilers

This equipment is universal in use, however, for its independent manufacture, you will need remarkable skill and excellent knowledge of the principles of operation of various types of heating equipment. The individual components of such units can be quite expensive, but in general, combined boilers can pay off in no more than 5-6 seasons.

When manufacturing a boiler of any type, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements of the safety rules and the standards applicable to the category of heating equipment you have selected.

Gas boiler complex mechanism... It can be divided into 3 main parts: electronics, gas pipes and burners, heat exchange unit (pump, tank, fan). Only the last part can be repaired on your own.

Attempts to restore the first two parts, without proper skills, will lead to final breakdown boiler, gas leakage and other negative consequences.

Gas boilers rarely break... This is due to natural wear and tear equipment, or because of factory marriage... Other cases of breakdowns are necessarily associated with the following factors.

The boiler can break down due to water. At risk, first of all, there are two-circuit devices used not only for heating, but also for hot water supply.

The fact is that rust from the pipeline, other fractions, clog the thin tubes of the heat exchanger during the year.

Avoiding water quality troubles can help coarse filter... It is installed during installation per feed pipe liquids. For greater security, you can add to the system fine filter, or install a complete cleaning system.

Household appliances are resistant to power surges and shutdowns electricity. But a gas boiler is a finer piece of equipment. A power surge will cause the boiler to shut down or damage the electronics. A malfunction of the device or a power outage will lead to freezing of the heating pipes.

In order to avoid sad consequences, they establish at least one of the additional devices.

• Stabilizer - a device that will solve the problem of power surges. Its size is small, it is installed both in an apartment and in a private house.

Photo 1. Electronic voltage stabilizer Resant Lux for a heating boiler. The device is wall-mounted.

• Uninterruptible power system. Will equalize the input voltage. Allows the boiler to work for a while in the absence of electricity. Suitable for use both in the apartment and in the house.
• Gas generator. It does not affect the stability of the network in any way, but it can save with a prolonged power outage. Used only in the private sector.

Attention! When buying a generator, check if it really is single-phase.

Installation of complex equipment layman will entail serious consequences. In frequent cases, the following problems occur:

• During installation neglected grounding... This leads to a build-up of static on the body of the device. When an electric arc occurs, the boiler automation often fails.
• After installation did not release air from the system... The resulting plug will lead to rupture of the coolant pipes and damage to the pump.
• Harness violations a gas boiler system, with a cast iron heat exchanger, will cause a split in an important part of the apparatus.

If the installation of the gas boiler is carried out correctly, operational problems arise only due to weather conditions... In cold winter, the desire to keep warm pushes people to use the boiler at maximum mode. The equipment withstands such conditions, but the gas system does not. A decrease in fuel pressure leads to interruptions in the operation of the apparatus. The automation starts to turn off the boiler. The problem is that this cannot be called a breakdown and it will not be possible to eliminate it.

Any malfunction of the gas boiler must be dealt with by a specialist. However, the opportunity to use the services of a master is not always there, and breakdowns are trivial... Let's consider the problems that can be solved on our own.

Usually the smell of gas appears when it leaks from the threaded connection of the supply hose... If there is a smell in the room where the boiler is installed, you need to open the window and turn off the boiler... Then follow the instructions:

1. Prepare the necessary things: soap solution, FUM tape, open-end wrench or adjustable wrench.
2. To apply mortar on all threaded connections. If bubbles begin to inflate, the leak has been found.
3. Close the gas valve.
4. Key expand the connection. Rewind on the external thread of the FUM tape and collect everything back.
5. Reapply solution and restart the gas supply.
6. If the leak has been repaired and the gas smell has disappeared, remove leftovers solution.

Attention! When the leak cannot be found, turn off the gas, call a specialist.

If during the operation of the boiler the sound emitted by the turbine has disappeared or has decreased - indicates a malfunction of the blowdown fan. For repair you will need: screwdriver, new bearing, cloth, grease.

1. Necessary turn off boiler and turn off the gas.
2. Remove the turbine.
3. With a rag to clear with turbine blades dust and carbon deposits.
4. Inspect Electric Coil fan for blackening. If everything is in order, move on or replace the fan.
5. Disassemble the fan housing. Inside the turbine shaft is installed bearing, his needs to be replaced. Some fans have sleeve instead of a bearing. In this case, her need to be lubricated.

The turbine may also not work due to undervoltage or malfunction of the control board. The first is eliminated with the help of a stabilizer, but the second only by calling a specialist.

Chimney problems arise only at boilers floor type... This is due to its size and vertical position. Hinged devices do not need to clean the chimney.

Chimney consisting from metal parts, cleaned with a metal brush. It must be disassembled and the accumulated soot removed mechanically. Whole the chimney is cleaned with special vacuum cleaners or chemicals. But for this you need to call a professional.

Photo 2. Three ways of arranging a chimney for a floor-standing gas boiler. The first option is the hardest to clean.

Boiler overheating is associated with contamination of the heat exchanger... To clean the device you will need: special hydrochloric acid solution, adjustable wrench, FUM tape, metal brush. Then follow the instructions:

1. Turn off the boiler, shut off gas and water.
2. Remove heat exchangerusing an adjustable wrench.
3. Clear it with a brush.
4. Through the pipe pour over into the heat exchanger acid solution... If foam appears, it means there is a lot of scale inside.
5. Pour out solution and repeat procedure.
6. Rinse.
7. Install back, beforehand wrapping all threaded connections with FUM tape.

Problems usually arise with combustion electrode. If the flame of the burner goes out after a few seconds, and the boiler gives an error, then the problem is in the combustion sensor. We turn off the boiler, turn off the gas.

To repair the electrode, you will need sandpaperwith the help of which the probe probes are cleanedwithout removing it. If the breakage remains, the sensor changes.

Exists two problemswhich lead to spontaneous boiler shutdown. The combustion sensor is broken or chimney clogged... The repair of both faults is described above in the article.

Watch the video, which tells about the malfunctions that occur during the operation of the boiler.

Most boiler breakdowns are repaired on their own, but this does not mean that you need to neglect the help of a specialist. Gas equipment is potentially life-threatening.

And also do not forget about maintenance... Cleaning the heat exchanger and chimney will save you from possible breakdowns.

In fact, there are not so many reasons why the boiler leaked. First, corrosion can be the culprit. What is corrosion is the destruction of the metal structure under the influence of the external environment. Internal corrosion of a gas boiler is caused by the influence of oxygen in the water, external corrosion by combustion products.

The next reason for a leak may be the low quality of the metal from which the heat exchanger is made and the quality of the seams of its joints.

High pressure in the system or water hammer also cause leaks in boilers. Burning out the walls of the heat exchanger also leaks.

In some cases, when water is dripping from the boiler and you think that your boiler is leaking, in fact, it may be condensate from the chimney, which flows down the chimney and enters the burner. If this situation occurs often, a moisture collecting cup should be equipped in the chimney. When it drips near the circulation pump, the bolt located in its center may have loosened. Tighten the bolt.

Below we will consider in more detail each case separately and describe what to do if this happens.

Heat exchangers installed in heat generators can be made of copper, steel and cast iron. Each has its own pros and cons. Copper heat exchangers are corrosion resistant and durable if the boiler is used correctly. Steel heat exchangers are the most common, due to their low cost, are resistant to thermal stresses, due to their ductility, but they are more likely to corrode.

Heat exchanger corrosion

Cast iron are resistant to corrosion, have a long service life, although they are afraid of temperature extremes and water hammer. Most manufacturers do not use anti-corrosion coatings. But in the latest models of Ferroli gas double-circuit boilers, the steel heat exchangers are coated with an anti-corrosion aluminum coating with environmental internal insulation.

On Baxi units, copper heat exchangers are coated with a special composition against corrosion. Protherm (Proterm), Buderus and Beretta have a cast-iron heat exchanger, which is coated with a special composition against corrosion. In addition, such a heat exchanger consists of separate sections, which can be changed in case of damage without completely changing the heat exchanger.

Wall-hung boilers Rinnai, Celtic (Celtic), Bosch (Bosch) are equipped with copper heat exchangers, Vaillant (Vilant) and Navien - from stainless steel, it is believed that they are less susceptible to corrosion.

The formation of corrosion is greatly influenced by the frequent feeding of the boiler. Ideally, the so-called "dead water" should circulate in the heat generator without oxygen. It is oxygen that contributes to the formation of corrosion.

If you often have to recharge the heat generator, you must eliminate the causes of the pressure drop in the unit.Oxygen corrosion forms an ulcer on the inside of the heat exchanger, which is very dangerous. As it grows inward, it forms rust through and destroys the heat exchanger.

The strength of the boiler depends on the quality of the welded joints. If the weld has cavities, irregularities, sooner or later this seam may leak. The void inside the seam is considered especially dangerous. Ideally, the seams should be X-rayed, but not all manufacturers do this.

Although boilers are pressure vessels and must be subject to increased manufacturing requirements, defect sometimes occurs. And, as a rule, it drips from the heating boiler after the end of the warranty. It is not always possible to weld the boiler inside and stop the leak.

It depends on how the heat exchanger is designed. In models where a bithermal heat exchanger is installed (the secondary and primary are in the same housing, heat exchange occurs due to the two-in-one design), this is problematic. But, even if you did this, as practice shows, it will not help you for long.

Excessive pressure in the system can also cause the boiler to leak. There are many reasons for high blood pressure. The main reason may be a malfunction of the expansion tank, air locks in the system, a clogged strainer, a malfunction of the safety valve, make-up valve.

A failure of the safety valve is indicated by constantly leaking fluid from the tube. High pressure can not only crack the boiler, but also cause an explosion. Make sure that the pressure gauge and the relief valve are in good working order, sometimes the valve is jammed due to the formation of a layer of salts on it. Wash it in citric acid.

Heating boiler safety valve

The pressure on the valve and in the expansion vessel must be checked regularly. When installing an expansion tank, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the coolant. How to calculate - there is a calculation formula, and the average value is -1.5 atm or 0.2 atm lower than in the system. For preventive maintenance, do not forget to flush the filters at the inlet and outlet of the heating circuit; after making up the system, it is necessary to air the batteries.

The cause of the leak can be burnout of the combustion chamber wall. Steel and cast iron burn out when carbon escapes from their composition, so the metal on the combustion chamber becomes thicker. As a rule, burnout occurs when the combustion chamber height is incorrectly set, the burner power is set incorrectly, the burner is not adjusted to the minimum and maximum power, the flame is too high.

Burnout occurs when the boiler is constantly operating at maximum power, this happens in the case of insufficient insulation of the housing or when the heat generator is selected without taking into account the heated area.

When purchasing a boiler, read reviews on the Internet and give preference to positively reputable manufacturers. It is better to buy a heat generator of slightly higher power, with reliable flame modulation and entrust the setting to specialists.

How to fix a leak - the algorithm for eliminating a leak is the same for solid fuel boilers, such as Don, KChM, and gas boilers, for example, AOGV, Alixia 24, Ariston (Ariston), Daewoo, Arderia, Electrolux.

1. Turn off the device.
2. Drain the water.
3. Wait until the boiler has cooled down completely.
4. To remove the heat exchanger, we will describe how to do it below.
5. Solder, eliminate the fistula.

What a heat exchanger looks like - it is a metal or cast iron body, heated by a burner flame and transferring thermal energy to the liquid that is inside it.

To disassemble it and solder it yourself, you need to remove the front panel, protective casing and protection of the combustion chamber with a long screwdriver.Then disconnect the sensor wires and pipelines suitable for the heat exchanger, try not to damage the pipes and pipes, hold them with a wrench.

In order to then connect everything correctly, you should first take a picture of the insides of the heat generator. Then disconnect the fan and smoke detector. When removing the heat exchanger, do not use force or make sudden movements, do everything very carefully.

If you find a breakthrough between the circuits in the tube, it is impossible to close such a hole, you will have to change the heat exchanger. It is impossible to weld the heat exchanger, you should use a gas torch soldering.

Brazing the heat exchanger

In order to do the soldering with your own hands, you must first clean up the place where the fistula formed. This can be done with fine sandpaper. Soldering is carried out with a gas-oxygen mixture with a solder containing the same chemical elements from which the heat exchanger is made.

It is impossible to use tin in this case, since such repairs after a while will again lead to the formation of a fistula. After soldering, a protective coating, such as a layer of aluminum, should be applied to the problem area.

When buying a heat generator, carefully examine the quality of the soldering of the connecting seams, both on the water and on the primary heat exchanger, there should be no sagging or irregularities.

Adjust the burner according to the instructions in the instructions. To avoid the appearance of fistulas, it is necessary to take timely measures in the presence of high pressure and airiness in the system. Avoid frequent replenishment of the system with water, find out the cause of the pressure drop in this case and eliminate it.