DIY steering wheel sensor repair

Start with the fact that
find out where this steering wheel sensor is located and what it is for
used. As well as the principle of its operation, what consequences may arise,
if it breaks down and possible actions when repairing it.

The steering wheel sensor is located under the return and slip rings
airbags and this device is installed on the steering column, in
the middle between the switches and the steering wheel.

Why is it needed?

Angle sensor
steering wheel rotation is necessary in order to determine the steering angle or relative steering angle, as well as the direction of rotation, the required angle
and the angular velocity, steering wheel. The functions are determined by the required systems in your vehicle.

So, summing up,
it is safe to say that this sensor determines the direction of
the movement that the driver asked him.

Regarding principles
work, then you can list its main details, namely: encoding
disc with a pair of rings and photovoltaic pairs, which are
separately have a source of illumination and the photocell itself.

As it was already above
it is said that the coding disc has two rings, namely an outer and an inner one.
The outer ring is needed to detect corner turns or, to put it another way,
the absolute values ​​of the steering wheel angle. The inner ring is required for
detecting the increments of this angle. The increment ring is divided into five sections, each with a degree of 72. This ring
interacts with one of the photovoltaic pairs. For each section, a ring
has a number of cuts and their order in relation to one
section remains unchanged, and in some individual sections this number
is different. That is why the coding of these sections is carried out. What's this
touched the inner ring.

The outer ring is necessary for determining the absolute values ​​or turns of the steering angle.
wheels. The outer ring works by interacting with six photovoltaic
in pairs. And by the way, the steering wheel rotation sensor is capable of
count down to 1044 degrees. And the direct reading is calculated by
addition of numbers of degrees that go over the mark in 360 degrees and the sensor
the steering wheel locks the end of the turn for one full turn.

With regard to measurements
angle, then here we can say that this procedure is performed due to
signals from a photoelectric sensor, which works in conjunction with a movable
screen. The principle of operation is that a beam of light passes through
a special cutout on the ring and on the terminals of the photocell voltage appears. AND
if this beam is interrupted, then the voltage will disappear. In general, with
displacements of the ring, a regular sequence of impulses appears. AND
the same sequence of voltage pulses appears on each of the
photovoltaic pairs that interact with the ring
absolute values. And all this nascent sequence goes to the block
boards, and there they are processed using electronic devices that are available
on the steering column.

What happens if the steering wheel sensor comes out of
building?

If the sensor, suddenly
turns out to be faulty, then, as a rule, the backup function is connected, thanks to
which, instead of the alternating signal of this sensor, is connected to the control
constant signal. With this action, the amplifiers remain completely
safe. As for the malfunction itself, the flash will tell about it
control lamp.

Angle sensors
steering wheel are of three types, namely potentiometric, optical and
magnetoresistive.

As for the first one,
then it can be attributed to contact sensors. It has two potentiometers which
attached to the steering column, one of these potentiometers is offset from the
to the other by 90 degrees and this allows you to determine the relative and absolute
steering wheel angles. Sensors of this type are now practically not
are used, due to the low reliability caused by the presence of moving contacts.

The second sensor is optical, it combines the coding disk, light sources and
photosensitive elements, as well as the block itself, which determines the number of full
revolutions during rotation. This type of sensor is the most advanced.

And the last third - the magnetoresistive steering wheel angle sensor - this is even more
universal device. Because this sensor, in addition to the relative and
the absolute angle of rotation of the steering wheel, it can also calculate its angular velocity. If you delve into it
constructiveness, then it can be revealed that this sensor includes two
magnetoresistive elements that are attached to the sensor body and they
work in conjunction with a pair of moving magnets. This
the sensor has magnetoresistors, and each magnet performs rotational
movement by means of a gear transmission. And the drive gears have
different number of teeth. And measurement data has for each location
the steering wheel has its own arrangement of magnets that are fixed
magnetoresistors. And therefore the control unit itself is able to determine the value
angles of turns, as well as their direction and speed.

You are kindly requested, before asking a question in the config and opening a new topic, look for the answer to your question here:
LINK 1, here: LINK 2 and here: LINK 3
I am sure that 90% of the answers you will find on the links provided. Also - try searching from the MAIN page of the site - there may be more complete results!

P.S If you know the error code, then just type it into the search line. And note that the first letter of the code must be typed in the "Latin" layout! Otherwise, the search results will lead you nowhere.
The first letter of the code is NOT the Russian letter “P”!

And more - a HUGE request to write in this forum in RUSSIAN - save Albanian for a smoking room.

Newbie

Group: Users
Posts: 30
Registration: 31.10.2016
User #: 86 974
Real name: Alexey
Moscow city

// I ask the moderators to move to the FAQ. He himself does not succeed - he writes “no rights”.

SUMMARY
If you have a break in the train in a snail, and you also have an amount of 250 rubles and several hours of time, then I will show you how to completely quickly and efficiently solve this problem on your own (if you have hands and a head from your shoulders and the ability to handle a soldering iron).

SYMPTOMS
After almost a year of owning a Dodge Nitro, the beep in a certain steering position began to disappear for me, and after a few days it completely stopped. In addition, the radio control buttons on the steering wheel also stopped working, while the cruise control worked properly, and there were no SRS errors (pillows).

DIAGNOSIS
Because The glitch was first observed when the steering angle was changed, then the diagnosis is unambiguous: the loop on the steering wheel broke (snail, clock spring, clockspring).
This is how this node looks in the catalog (catalog section: 2007 KA - DODGE NITRO -> 8 ELECTRICAL -> 21 810 SWITCHES (INSTRUMENT PANEL AND CONSOLE):

Here are the original replacement numbers:
68003216AA
68003216AB
68003216AC
68003216AD
68003216AE
68003216AF
68003216AG
68003216AH
5156106AA
5156106AB
5156106AC
5156106AD

TREATMENT
The topic is known to many, there are discussions on the Internet, the general opinion can be expressed as follows:
- "the price tag for the assembled snail is inadequate"
- "the loop is not repairable"
- “order a new one on ebay without a rudder sensor and throw it into your body”

Indeed, ordering a new complete snail for 28,000 rubles (autumn 2017) just because of a broken train is nonsense. I also didn't want to order a donor (a simplified version without a steering angle sensor) with a subsequent swap (the price tag is about 14,000 for the same existence). In addition to high prices, there is still a waiting period of 3-4 weeks!

I don’t like to put a bu-shny snail either:
(a) the status of the loop and the resource are unknown
(b) only a disassembled dragonfly was encountered during disassembly - just without a snail.

Thus, there remains only the option of repairing the loop as the most reasonable.

PATH # 1 - repair of the native loop
It can be cured, but only if the break is on a stationary section of the snail. But in this case, why would he break then, right ?! In other cases, you will have a cliff on a moving site. For some reason, the regular train, for a reason that is not clear to me, is for some reason laid in a cunning way and assumes constant pulling and "breaking" along a small radius (R7.0 mm, exactly measured). If the break is soldered, then the repaired section of the loop will stop bending, and very soon it will break at the next bending at this radius. In addition, you still need to insulate the soldered conductor, and this will lead to a thickening of the loop and complicate its movement inside the cochlea. In short, whatever one may say, the patient is practically hopeless, therefore this path is of little interest.

PATH # 2 - replacement of the native loop
My first attempts to find a suitable loop were unsuccessful - the internet is full of questions “from what to pick up a loop?”, But, as a rule, there are no answers. There are references to some flat cables from scanners / printers, but the caveat is given that they are all short.

Our snail uses two stubs of length 730 mm and 990 mm. Each has 5 conductors (2 thick - pillow contacts, 3 thin - the rest of the signal lines). Of course, you will not find anything like this.

I managed to find on ebay and aliexpress several offers of FFC (flexible flat cables) of suitable lengths (1 and 1.5 meters). From the USA, the price tag was about 2000 rubles. From China about 500-600r. But delivery is a month.

And here a few days ago I finally found the long-awaited solution: flat 25-core cable worth (ATTENTION!) 250 rubles / m, which is always available (Moscow, Mitinsky radio market):

// I don't know where they have this cable on the site, because I came to them with my feet for other nishtyaks, but I accidentally saw this cable too!

This cable has the same pitch as ours (Chrysler's), the only difference is that all conductors have the same width.
Let me remind you that Chrysler has thick guides on the pillow. However, the pitch width of the new cable allows you to ideally take 2 adjacent tracks and solder them to one thick pad. Thus, for our task it will be necessary to cut off the train with 7 tracks. In addition, it turns out that the tracks of the pillow will be duplicated, which, from my point of view, is better - 2 thin ones will be more reliable than 1 thick one in case of mechanical damage.

There are articles and step-by-step reports on the replacement of the snail and related operations (calibration of the rudder angle sensor) on the network, so I will not repeat myself. In my opinion, the most informative article is here:

To help, I will give only a few of my photos:

(1) General view of a dragonfly (which you will have to deal with)

(2) Correspondence of the pinout at the input and output (inputs 0, 1, 2 and 3 are the steering wheel rotation sensor, these contacts are not used on the loop, of course). photo of disassembled

(3) Photo of a disassembled snail with a standard train
On the lower loop, you can see the red marks that I made when looking for a break. This is where the problem area turned out to be.

All terminal blocks can be easily pulled out by loosening the clamps. You can easily disassemble it.

Regular loops must be completely removed, and the contacts must be well irradiated. To do this, I used a soldering water-soluble flux (FCS), regular solder and a low-power soldering iron with a sharp tip.

The ends of the new train also need to be tinned on both sides.There is no need to pre-strip the train - the tailpiece melts the polymer shell, exposing the copper tracks. This is all very easy to do. Then the loop is soldered in such a way as to connect the desired tracks.

You can lay the train in different ways:

(1) Stock option (described by the link on drive2, which I gave earlier).
In this way, I quickly and successfully laid the stock train when I took apart the snail for the very first time. However, I did not succeed in laying a new cable in this way: the new cable is still fresh and very springy, and also winds / unwinds when it is not needed. I fiddled for 2 hours trying to shove everything inside so as not to pinch anything. Twice I succeeded, but each time the snail turned less than 2 turns in each direction, when 2.5 is needed! After further analysis, I found a new cable jam! Outside the window is deep night, so after the second unsuccessful attempt, I spat and moved on to another option:

(2) "Spiral" option
Without any hesitation, I threw the orbital ying-yang out of the snail — that spinning crap that apparently killed the original train. Without this detail, there is much more space inside.

Next, I wound both trains in a spiral, as far as their length allowed. I folded the excess length (990-730 = 260mm) in several layers and packed it in the compartment from where they come out. Further
I collected everything without any problems the first time in 1 minute.

Then I turned the snail in one direction until it stops, then turned it back more than 2 turns - this will be the center position (when the wheels are level). I made sure that in the opposite direction there is also a margin of 2+ turns (I don’t know how many full turns there were). I returned the cochlea to the central position again and set the rudder angle sensor to a new position (the procedure is by the link above).

IMPORTANT (relevant for snails with a plug with contacts “0-1-2-3”, ie with a rudder position sensor): while we were working with the snail, we twisted and twisted it in all directions and, of course, lost its “zero” position. Therefore, if now you do not set the steering angle sensor correctly, then when the ignition is turned on, the ESP / BAS / ABS bulbs will light up and will not go out, and these systems will not work. Therefore, it is important not to forget to expose these sensors.

After that, everything was assembled and installed on the machine. Everything works, the steering wheel rotates quietly, without any noise from the snail, the tidy is quiet and smooth - no mistakes!

As an afterword.
At the first parsing of the steering wheel, I found that the plugs of the driver's airbag were not connected, but there were no errors on the tidy! Obviously, someone before me was an asshole because he could not fix / change the snail, but smart enough to solder two 18-ohm resistors in front of the plug as a SRS trick (when the ignition was turned on, testing was successful and the SRS icon went out)!

I hope this article will help people who are faced with a broken cable quickly and cheaply solve all these problems.

This post can serve as an instruction for handy people who find themselves in a similar situation.

Although I am a radio engineer, I have been deeply involved in auto repair for a long time. There is a very decent service, where your humble servant is currently working. Well, now the story, I hope you find it interesting.

Nissan Murano Z50 (photo from the Internet), our patient is not so handsome:

One smart service technician decided to replace the steering rack on his personal Murano. He did it well and quickly, but! This post would not exist if it were not for this BUT! I accidentally turned the steering wheel and forgot about it. In the steering wheel there is a long train wound in a spiral in order to transmit electrical signals to the steering wheel itself. I think for many of you this is obvious. I assembled, started, pumped the system - there is no beep, an error on the pillow is on, the multifunction steering wheel does not work. All clear. Tovarisch sighed and called me to save the day. Tool in the teeth and go!

Got it out, dismantle it, it's late, I'm taking the subject home.(my daughter is 4 months old, so I apologize for the extra objects in the frame) Here is a snail:

And here is what gave a turn of the steering wheel one turn more (I cut off the mantle piece of the train, but he has a photo):

Naturally, the train itself inside was twisted and re-bent. Straightened up, rang. the roads are intact. Let's get started! We prepare the train and the receiving part, clean everything. And yes, without a third hand in any way.

So, the photographs show in sufficient detail the design of the sensor, and the stages of its disassembly. I did not take pictures of the procedure for removing the sensor, firstly, because it differs slightly on different cars and depends on the design of the steering wheel and airbag. And secondly, because a specific sensor is always in my desk and waiting for its turn.

From the general recommendations, it should be recalled that all procedures related to airbag must be performed some time after disconnecting the battery.

Key points:
- Dismantling and disconnecting from each other sensors and their components, if possible, we fix them in the basic position from possible rotation. The methods can be different. From screwing a self-tapping screw into a specially prepared hole on the SAW block (spiral with a train), to fixing with masking tape or nylon ties, depending on the capabilities and degree of disassembly.
- The SAS sensor itself is disassembled from the bottom side (relative to its location on the car), so that all the angles and directions of rotation indicated by the diagnostics must be done in the mirror direction.
- When setting the angle, most likely you will not absolutely accurately get to the zero position. If the error is small, it can be compensated for by the rudder calibration procedure.

So, the procedure itself:
- unscrew the three screws and take out the central bushing. Pay attention to the relative position of special markers on the details.
- use a thin flat screwdriver to “lift” the latches. To simplify the procedure, you can use toothpicks, slipping them under the wrung out elements.
- unscrew the two self-tapping screws holding the radial sensor board.
- slightly raise the board and carefully, without damaging the cable, move it aside.
- we turn the central washer / gear by the angle indicated by the diagnostics, not forgetting about the specular direction.
- we raise the central washer, removing it from the gearing with the drive gear of the vertical sensor.
- we put the central washer in place, having previously turned it in the opposite direction, to its original position.
- put the board in place, assemble the block in reverse order.
- we install the sensor on the car, check the result, correct the error by calibration.

As I already wrote in one of the topics, using this technique, the performance of several sensors was successfully restored. The service life of the first of them is almost a year. But one must be aware that this does not completely solve the problem, since the basis of the problem is the deterioration of the parameters of the optical elements of the circuit over time. However, this procedure makes it possible to significantly delay the complete replacement of the sensor, which in some cases is very important.
Good luck!

Miniatures

As the name implies, a steering wheel angle sensor is needed to determine the angle of travel, as well as to measure the yaw rate. With its help, it is possible to determine the direction of the car, given by the driver. This device is used in the functioning of a number of mechanisms.

If we take adaptive lighting as a basis, we can describe the principle of operation as follows: the device fixes how many degrees a turn is made. This information is automatically transmitted to the control unit. The block distributes the received data between other systems. Depending on the values ​​obtained, either the headlight is moved or additional lamps are connected. This provides the driver with better lateral visibility.

There are several types of such devices, which are built on different measurement principles. More on them in the following sections.

This is a pin view. Contains two potentiometers that are attached to the steering column. One is offset 90 ° from the other. This placement allows you to measure the angle of travel. However, it should be noted that such devices are practically not used now, since they are characterized by low reliability.

This is an advanced device. A device of this type combined light sources, a unit for determining the number of revolutions, a coding disk. It contains two rings. On the inner one there are holes, on the outer one they are also present, but they are uneven. The structure of the inner ring allows you to determine how many degrees the steering wheel is turned. The outer ring determines the direction of rotation.

Such a sensor is considered to be universal. It allows you to measure the angular velocity. It contains two magnetoresistive elements that are attached to the body.

The magnets rotate using a gear train. The control unit measures the degree of rotation, direction and speed.

In this video, you will see how to properly replace the steering angle sensor on a BMW E65.

Today we have solved the same problem. The mustache can be pulled out of the throttle position sensor from some Toyota, they are just brass there and are easily soldered to the worn ones. (In the throttle position sensors from other cars, the steel mustache is poorly soldered, you need acid)

The contacts there are really very small. Such contacts still need to be found. And most likely it is necessary to solder under a microscope.

IgorS 14 November 2012

Thank you! FSE bought, installed, reprogrammed, while the norm, 1200 km flight is normal!
Thank you for the phone number

Thank you! FSE bought, installed, reprogrammed, while the norm, 1200 km flight is normal!
Thank you for the phone number

stuntman1 30 November 2012

maximas 17 December 2012

IgorS 05 January 2013

friends! and in order to get to the steering sensor, the steering gimbal needs to be removed?

Yes! You need to disconnect it, it's simple!

IgorS 05 January 2013

We need to replace all the lamellas with something suitable.

When you find a suitable contact instead of the worn out ones, sign off in the forum, just wondering if the sensor will work correctly !?

maximas 17 January 2013

When you find a suitable contact instead of the worn out ones, sign off in the forum, just wondering if the sensor will work correctly !?

I’m not likely to fix my broken one ..

A-Foto72 03 April 2013

sokot8 22 April 2013

Post has been editedRavy yy s s: 04 July 2015 - 10:29

I will tell you about my experience in dealing with this ailment. I did not go to the service station because they would not repair the sensor, but only replace it. And it costs a lot. New under 200 bucks, used 50+.

I did everything alone - the second person was not needed there at all, I did not remove the terminal from the battery. I just turned off the ignition.

The bolt came out easily, but in order to disconnect the shaft from the coupling, I had to drive a screwdriver into the slot (Fig. 3), after which the lower shaft is easily sunk into the floor, which allows the sensor to be removed. There are several screws on the case for a very small sprocket, which I did not find even in two sets of tools, so I had to unscrew it with a knife. Inside there are two pairs of brushes, and one of them has half-worn antennae. I trimmed the adjacent one to the same length and folded it so that the tips were at the level of the second pair. Assembled, put it back, connected with a diagnostic cable and calibrated the sensor in Inpe - the error does not appear anymore. I don’t know how long it will last, but so far the flight is normal.

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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An adaptation of the steering angle sender G85 needs to be done.

An adaptation of the steering angle sender G85 needs to be done.

The situation is as follows
1K0953549
we have a 2006gv car and empty functionality, and a steering column block with the letters AN and pins for the steering wheel position sensor

Purchased from the car in 10 years, a kit for installing a multi-wheel, mfa, etc., etc.
There is a block with the letters CF and the absence of pins for the steering position sensor

The problem is apparently that on fresh cars this sensor is already on the steering rack, and not under the steering wheel, and because of this it is impossible to adapt the steering rack and the amplifier does not work correctly, but the buttons, cruise, signal work

Tell me which block to look for with what letters to guess with the functionality and were there pins on the sensor?

The rudder position sensor can be:

• original;
• BOO;
• restored;
• pre-calibrated (final vehicle calibration required).

Calibration of the steering wheel position sensor on the vehicle is required if:

1. second-hand sensor, but obviously working, that is, removed without errors from a working car;
2. second-hand sensor, software restored;
3. the sensor is new.

The reasons for the failure of the sensor can be different, but most often it is associated with the software part and calibrations. The malfunction occurs during the repair of the steering, during the removal and installation of the sensor for repair or replacement of the coil train of the SRS system, as well as during work on the steering rack or incorrect adjustment of the front wheel alignment angles (“camber”).

The sensor calibrations have limited parameters for reading the rotation of the steering shaft axis in degrees, and if the sensor is inadvertently turned beyond the limited parameters, the system determines it as faulty and blocks it programmatically.

The following errors are recorded in the memory of the ABS / VSC / TRC unit:

C1336 – Zero Point Calibration of Deceleration Sensor undone - the calibration of the “zero” of the sensor has not been performed;

C1433 – Steering Angle Sensor Internal Circuit - Internal circuit of the steering angle sensor.

It is impossible to delete error data from the sensor memory even by dealer diagnostic equipment through the diagnostic connector, since the sensor memory is blocked by these errors. Any further manipulations, attempts to erase errors and / or calibrate the sensor are useless without software intervention in the sensor firmware. In this case, it is necessary to program the memory of the sensor itself.

In each specific case, a correction of the individual firmware from a specific sensor is required. It is strongly not recommended to disassemble the sensor for the sake of curiosity or to search for the possibility of self-repair, since a violation of the installation of small gears in the case leads to the impossibility of further calibration of the sensor on the car, despite the fact that the sensor will even be corrected by software - this is tantamount to the fact that the firmware will be with another.

Hello.
On the Chinese universal scaler (la.mv56u.a V56) smd element burned out, presumably a field worker.
Marking on its body: WSA7H
The search engines did not give the slightest clue about analogs.

Need help identifying the markings for the? Transistor? ... The flashlight driver blew smoke after replacing the batteries (18650 batteries - pcs.). Native batteries were discharged, and were inserted from the power bank. But the roofing felts were affected by the lack of protection against short-circuit, the roofing felts simply confused the polarity, but the flashlight stopped working. After disassembling, I saw a half-crumbling part indicated on the board as Q2. The marking is burnt, it is not known how to replace it.
(On Q1-marking A09T)
Need advice from knowledgeable people. I will be grateful.

Hello everybody. I decided to collect Ts.M.U for the holidays. -Prometheus-1. The amplifier module is working. but the converter module is not. A clear sound passes to the base V2 and after that there is a barely audible distorted signal, and the lamp does not blink. I have a question - is there an error on the printed circuit board, maybe the transistor is not so connected. - or a diode. Tell me what I did wrong.

So, the photographs show in sufficient detail the design of the sensor, and the stages of its disassembly.I did not take pictures of the procedure for removing the sensor, firstly, because it differs slightly on different machines and depends on the design of the steering wheel and airbag. And secondly, because a specific sensor is always in my desk and waiting for its turn.

From the general recommendations, it should be recalled that all procedures related to airbag must be performed some time after disconnecting the battery.

Key points:
- Dismantling and disconnecting from each other the sensors and their parts, as far as possible, we fix them in the basic position from possible rotation. The methods can be different. From screwing a self-tapping screw into a specially prepared hole on the SAW block (spiral with a train), to fixing with masking tape or nylon ties, depending on the capabilities and degree of disassembly.
- The SAS sensor itself is disassembled from the bottom side (relative to its location on the car), so that all the angles and directions of rotation indicated by the diagnostics must be done in the mirror direction.
- When setting the angle, most likely you will not absolutely accurately get to the zero position. If the error is small, it can be compensated for by the rudder calibration procedure.

So, the procedure itself:
- unscrew the three screws and take out the central bushing. Pay attention to the relative position of special markers on the details.
- use a thin flat screwdriver to “lift” the latches. To simplify the procedure, you can use toothpicks, slipping them under the wrung out elements.
- unscrew the two self-tapping screws holding the radial sensor board.
- slightly raise the board and carefully, without damaging the cable, move it aside.
- we turn the central washer / gear by the angle indicated by the diagnostics, not forgetting about the specular direction.
- we raise the central washer, removing it from the gearing with the drive gear of the vertical sensor.
- we put the central washer in place, having previously turned it in the opposite direction, to its original position.
- put the board in place, assemble the block in reverse order.
- we install the sensor on the car, check the result, correct the error by calibration.

As I already wrote in one of the topics, using this technique, the performance of several sensors was successfully restored. The service life of the first of them is almost a year. But one must be aware that this does not completely solve the problem, since the basis of the problem is the deterioration of the parameters of the optical elements of the circuit over time. However, this procedure makes it possible to significantly delay the complete replacement of the sensor, which in some cases is very important.
Good luck!

Miniatures

Steering repair - diagnostics, elimination of steering wheel play and replacement of the steering wheel position sensor

Hello dear motorists! Tell me, if there was a control in the car, like in a tank - lever, you would feel and call yourself a full-fledged driver. Probably not.

And, since the steering of a car is the system without which we do not fully feel like drivers, then on the agenda: repair of the steering wheel.

The driver's love for the steering wheel is deferred to us on a subconscious level. You can smile, but even in the "dream books" it is written: if you see that someone broke off the steering wheel on your car, it means that you are in complete confusion. Therefore, we need to maintain the steering of a car in perfect order and be able to repair the steering system within our competence.

The symptoms of steering faults, which we will now give you, are conditionally correct. You perfectly understand that an accurate diagnosis can be made only after opening ... the steering mechanism. And for this we need to know how to remove the steering wheel. But, first, about the signs of malfunctions in the steering.

• The steering wheel is "heavy" in both directions or during rapid rotation - air has entered the power steering, there is not enough oil in the power steering reservoir, or a weak pulley, the steering rack housing is worn out, plus the camber-toe adjustment may be disturbed.
• A “heavy” handlebar in the center indicates wear on the rack housing.
• The steering wheel is "heavy" only in one direction indicates the failure of the rail spools.
• Poor return of the steering wheel to the center position - these can be malfunctions in the chassis, violation of wheel alignment, wear of the steering column crosspiece or wear of the steering mechanism
• The main reason for steering vibration is, most often, imbalance of the wheels.
• Backlash in the steering wheel means: when the steering wheel is swinging vertically - the bearings in the hubs are faulty, when the steering wheel is swinging horizontally - the steering tip needs to be replaced. You will see the permissible steering wheel play in the manufacturer's manual for your car.
• A knock in the steering column when the steering wheel is shaken or while driving is a characteristic symptom indicating steering play caused by an increase in the gap between the pinion and the toothed steering rack.

So, since we are talking about the steering wheel backlash. The rudder backlash is measured by a simple device - a backlash gauge. Its arrow is fixed to the steering wheel, and the scale to the steering column.

Steering play is the angle of free rotation of the steering wheel without moving (turning) the front wheels. According to GOST RF, rudder play is allowed up to 10 degrees. At the stands in the service, if you are too lazy to check the backlash yourself or there is no backlash gauge, the steering wheel backlash sensor is used - the steering angle sensor.

Replacing the steering angle sensor

Steering angle sensors are now installed on many models. If it fails, the sensor is replaced. In principle, this operation can be performed independently.

The first step is to remove the steering wheel. How to remove the steering wheel will tell you the manual from the manufacturer for a specific car model.

Then remove the steering column shroud, combination switch unit and wiper switch. The combination switch housing is completely replaceable and try not to drop it as the sensor is very sensitive to shock.

The purpose of the adjustment is to move the steering rack stop. The adjustment is made using the adjusting screw located in the steering box end cover.

• To access the adjusting screw, the car must be lifted: onto the platform or onto the overpass.
• The wheels of the car are set straight and swinging the steering wheel left-right should show you a knock in the steering wheel.
• We screw in the adjusting screw, systematically swinging the steering wheel. The knock is gone, so you need to take a test drive.

In case the steering wheel is hard to return, the adjusting screw must be slightly loosened. And thus, bring the steering to the desired parameter: there is no knock or obvious backlash and the steering wheel freely returns to its place. Steering adjustment must be done with an assistant.