In detail: DIY repair of a wooden ceiling from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The content of the article:
Ceiling alignment methods
Preparatory work before leveling
Fighting mold and mildew
Marking a wooden ceiling
Ceiling marking rules
Using shingles when leveling
Installation of beacons for plaster
Wooden ceiling primer
Leveling the ceiling with plaster
The technological process of leveling a wooden ceiling includes several stages: preparatory work (cleaning the surface, laying wiring, insulation), treating wood from pests, applying a primer to improve the quality of the starting material and increasing adhesion, marking a new ceiling plane, installing auxiliary elements, leveling the wooden ceiling. Let's consider the features of each of them.
Ceiling alignment can be done in two ways. They are called "dry" and "wet". The first is leveling with profiles and drywall, the second is plastering. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages, as well as conditions of use.
It is advisable to use plastering if the depth of irregularities does not exceed 3-5 cm. Too thick layer of plaster makes the ceiling heavier, increasing the risk of delamination. With the "wet" method of leveling the ceiling, areas with sufficiently deep drops must be covered with shingles. To level the wooden ceiling better, use beacons.
Preparing a wooden ceiling for leveling includes several stages:
Check the ceiling for imperfections, such as damage to planks and beams from pests, mildew, and fungus. Replace heavily damaged parts of the structure and fasteners with new ones to avoid serious damage in the future.
Video (click to play).
Remove old plaster. Those areas that are held firmly and will not interfere with further work can be left.
If the ceiling was previously painted with water-based paint, use a solution of water and iodine to remove it.
Water-dispersion paint is washed off with special solutions, for example, Docker S4 quick-action gel solution (retail price - from 260 rubles per 1 kg). This product is acid-free.
Cut off small protrusions with a planer.
If the boards are smooth enough, make notches on them for better adhesion of the mortar to the wood surface.
The preparatory stage is the best time for preventive treatment of wood from fungus and mold.
Lay electrical wiring.
If necessary, lay insulation, vapor barrier.
Large cracks between the boards can be repaired with roughing putty and tow. The tow is thoroughly mixed with the putty and hammered into the cracks.
Fungus is a fairly common occurrence. It occurs with excessive humidity and poor ventilation of the air, as well as with insufficient heating of the room during the cold season. It affects any surface, including wood products. The fungus most commonly found on wood surfaces has a bluish tinge. This species is just as dangerous as the others: mold and rotting fungi, as well as actinomycetes.
The bluish fungus destroys the structure of the wood, due to which moisture penetrates into it and remains there. Due to this, mold and rotting fungus develop. The process of destruction of a wooden ceiling occurs quickly enough.That is why it is impossible to neglect the processing of wood with antiseptic agents.
It is known that fungus can penetrate 1 cm or more into wood. If there are such areas, it is better to remove them by replacing them with new boards. If the thickness of the boards allows, use a sharp knife or ax to carve out the affected areas. Waste containing the fungus should be burned to prevent the spread of fungal spores.
Treat the entire surface of the ceiling with a brush or roller with an antiseptic, for example, Nortex-Doctor (from 100 rubles per 1 kg) or Nortex-Disinfector (from 170 rubles per 1 kg). Nortex-Disinfector is highly effective for serious damage to wood by fungus, woodworm beetle and termites. When buying an antiseptic, read the rules of use (material to which the agent is applicable, its consumption), precautions.
Layout is an important step in ceiling alignment. The final result depends on its accuracy, as well as the choice of the alignment method that will be most acceptable in a particular situation.
A laser or bubble level is used to mark the ceiling. The laser level provides high accuracy with the least effort and time, in contrast to the bubble instrument. DEFORT DLL-9 is one of the cheapest manual laser levels (from 440 rubles). The bubble level is paired with a long rule, it is best to connect them together with duct tape.
Recommendations for marking a wooden ceiling:
To accurately mark the new position of the ceiling plane, focus on the lowest areas.
As you measure, mark the walls around the entire perimeter. Drive nails into them and pull tight thread, tying it to the nails.
If, as a result, the level differences of the plane are small - up to 3 cm, then the “wet” leveling method can be used, ie. applying plaster.
If there is a second floor or an attic above the room in which it is necessary to level the wooden ceiling, then shingles should be equipped over the entire surface of the ceiling.
Shingles - a mesh of wooden slats 3-5 mm thick. The slats are stuffed onto a wooden surface in two rows. The size of the cells is 5 by 10 cm. The second row is packed in a parallel plane at right angles to the first. The application of shingles reduces the cost of plaster mortar, and also reduces the likelihood of a thick layer collapse.
The lighthouse is a special guiding profile. Its task is to regulate the final level of plastering.
The rules for installing beacons are as follows:
The lighthouses are fixed to the ceiling parallel to each other.
The distance between them should be less than the length of the rule that will stretch the solution. If the width of the room is 3 meters, then fix the first lighthouse 50 cm from the wall parallel to it, the second - 150 cm, the third - 250 cm.With this option, the rule should be 160 cm, so that when pulling the solution from the wall to the first lighthouse, the rule also relied on the second lighthouse.
Install beacons in deeper areas so that the level of the new plane does not decrease. Then the layer of plaster will be less, because the new plane will run along the most protruding section of the ceiling. If the lighthouse is installed in the most protruding part, then the level of the ceiling will drop to the height of the lighthouse.
Beacons should not be too flexible, otherwise they will sag when pressed by the rule.
The best option for fastening the beacon profile is "eared".
Before plastering, be sure to prime the entire wood surface of the ceiling. The purpose of applying the primer is to deeply impregnate the wood. The solution fills microcracks, strengthens the structure, and prevents moisture penetration. The primer is designed to improve the adhesion of plaster to wood.
Wash all equipment immediately after finishing work with the primer.
Apply the primer in several steps. The time specified in the instructions should elapse between applications.
Apply the primer in any convenient way: brush, roller, spray.
Apply the impregnation by brushing in two opposite directions so that the product penetrates more evenly deep into the wood. Pay particular attention to seams and hard-to-reach areas.
There is a wide variety of primers to choose from. They can be classified by composition, by the type of surface to be treated, by purpose. In order to purchase the most suitable primer, correctly explain to the seller what material will be processed, what kind of coating will be applied.
A universal primer, in addition to increasing adhesion, improving the strength of the material, increasing resistance to external influences, is designed to fight pests, fungi and mold.
As a plaster of a wooden ceiling, you can use a self-made cement mortar or other mixtures that are more plastic, for example, Rotband plaster. Rotband Knauf is a universal gypsum-based mixture with good binding properties (retail price - from 400 rubles).
Knead the solution, adhering to the manufacturer's recommendations and the following general rules:
The solution for leveling a wooden ceiling should be mixed in a small amount. The mixture containing gypsum dries quickly enough.
The prepared solution should be applied immediately.
The solution should not be too liquid or solid. A liquid solution tends to spread during operation, and a solid solution does not adhere well to the surface.
Using a construction mixer will shorten the mixing time of the mortar, while the mortar will be the most homogeneous. The plaster should be applied after the primer has completely dried.
Features of applying plaster for leveling a wooden ceiling:
Apply the finished solution with a spatula, starting from the inside of the room, moving gradually to the window opening.
Apply the solution to small areas - up to 80 cm in length.
Stretch the rule towards you. Press the rule moderately against the beacons.
In those areas where the level beacon is located at a certain distance from the ceiling surface, i.e. there is a gap, it is better to apply the plaster in two layers. The first layer is applied before fixing the lighthouse, immediately overlaid with a paint net. In this case, the mesh should be slightly pressed into the applied solution by 3-4 mm. Then the lighthouse is attached, and the final layer of plaster is applied, leveled along the lighthouses.
Reinforcing mesh must be used over the entire ceiling area if the plaster layer exceeds 1 cm.
When the solution has already been applied to the entire surface of the wooden ceiling, remove the beacons. If the lighthouse is made of a material that is resistant to oxidation, then it can be left without fear of rust.
The grooves from the lighthouses should be covered with the same solution.
The plaster is characterized by a large grain size. To make the surface smoother, for example, before painting or wallpapering, it is advisable to smooth it with a putty. Before applying a new type of leveling compound, the surface must be primed again.
The starter putty has a medium grain size and is used for the initial leveling of the surface. The finishing putty has the smallest grain, which is why it is suitable for the final smoothing of the surface.
Watch the video about wooden ceilings:
Each wooden structure undergoes changes during operation. Cracks appear, knots fall out, paint and varnishes lose their gloss. Therefore, repairing a wooden ceiling is as necessary a process as repairing a plasterboard, stretch or concrete one.
If there is a need to repair a wooden ceiling, the first thing to do is to carry out visual inspection of surfaces... If there is information about how and from what the structure was erected, it can be assumed what happens behind the outer skin. But in most cases, one can only guess.
Repairing the ceiling in a wooden house can be done in several ways. It all depends on what this structure is made of. There are few options, but they are.
Sheathed with clapboard.
It is a false ceiling.
Sheathed with curved boards.
From the outside, it is built of longitudinally or transversely laid beams, between which it is sewn up with boards.
OSB and chipboard boards also made of wood, but ceilings are not used in the device... Or they are a base that requires external finishing.
Reasons for starting renovation work
A visual inspection revealed cracks in the boards.
Gaps between the boards have appeared or enlarged.
The boards "led", they bent, and their geometric shape changed.
There is a massive loss of knots.
The outer finish fell into disrepair: the paintwork peeled off and cracked.
To complete the picture of what is happening with the ceiling, you need it embroider on one side... One way or another, but it will have to be done. Otherwise, it will not be possible to identify and eliminate the cause of the troubles that have occurred.
Do-it-yourself repair of a wooden ceiling is done using tools familiar to each owner. Expensive and professional is not required. To work with wood you need:
screwdriver (preferably with rechargeable batteries);
jigsaw;
a plane (it is better to have an electric one);
screwdrivers;
hammer;
hacksaw for wood;
mount;
pliers.
If the renovation is large-scale, and the ceiling is sheathed with curved boards, it may be necessary thickness gauge... With this tool, all structural elements are aligned so that they have the correct geometric shape and were the same size.
In the case of wooden ceilings, this will greatly simplify the work. By driving the boards in a thickness gauge, they remove a thin layer of shavings from them, and they become like new. But for this purpose, those in which no cracks and holes from fallen knots... Having disassembled the structure, you can always find wood suitable for re-installation. This will help to significantly save on lumber.
Lining is the most popular material for wooden ceilings. There are several types of these boards:
standard or "peasant";
block house;
"Under the bar" or "American";
"Euro": "classic", "calm", "soft line".
All these products differ in two ways:
Regardless of what type of lining was used for lining the ceiling, the problems are always the same:
natural wear and tear of materials;
violations of installation rules, devices for steam and waterproofing of the upper floor;
drying out of wood;
decay (the appearance of black spots, fungus, mold);
the appearance of cracks.
Step 1. Repair of the ceiling of a wooden house begins with the dismantling of the cladding.
Find the attachment points.
Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws or, using the tools at hand, pull out the nails.
Remove the first, extreme lining strip from the grooves.
Each bar is inspected, sorted into suitable for further use and unusable.
Step 2. Inspect each ceiling beam. If there is insulation between them, remove it. Conclusions are made about whether one, several or all of the beams need to be replaced. The design of wooden ceilings can be different. The beams to which the lining is attached can be an integral part of the upper floor, or be attached to these load-bearing beams.
The process of joining and replacing the timber depends on the method of fastening. But in any case, you will need to do the following:
using a drill or screwdriver, remove the fasteners that hold the beams (these can be metal corners or wooden bars);
if the beams are set on "pins", a mount is used in dismantling works;
inspect the wood and, if it is suitable for further use, eliminate deficiencies (remove mold, cover with 2-3 layers of antiseptic);
dry in the sun or in a room with normal air humidity;
install the beam in its original place.
Unsuitable for further use beams with long longitudinal cracks, bent, rotten.
Step 3. Replacement of thermal insulation material.
DIY ceiling repair in a wooden house requires a high-quality thermal and vapor barrier... Most of the problems with wooden structures arise from the low vapor permeability of the materials used in the installation. For this reason, high humidity forms inside the cake, which is detrimental to the wood.
Most often, decay processes begin in structures insulated with materials on fibrous base (glass wool, stone wool, mineral wool). All these insulation have high degree of hygroscopicity... After moistening, they become heavy and lose their thermal insulation properties. This is not surprising, since wet cotton wool is not able to retain heat.
Therefore, many craftsmen who are familiar with the disadvantages of fiber insulation recommend using it as a replacement. Styrofoam... Rumors about the harmfulness of this material are greatly exaggerated. If they were true, polystyrene foam would not be used as packaging for food products, household appliances and other goods.
Cloths of the selected insulation are laid in the openings between the load-bearing elements of the upper floor - beams. If polystyrene is mounted, it is attached to the rough ceiling with special glue or plastic dowels with a wide head, which are otherwise called "fungi" or "umbrellas".
If it is necessary to fix mineral wool slabs to the ceiling, use thin wooden slats, which are nailed to the beams, laying in a direction perpendicular to them.
Step 4. The device of a vapor barrier layer.
Repairing a wooden ceiling requires a device high-quality vapor barrier... It is a protective barrier between the load-bearing structural elements and the outer cladding (lining). Thus, it protects the base of the frame from excess moisture. This ensures the durability of the entire ceiling structure.
What materials can you choose:
reinforced or perforated polyethylene film (the second is used for rooms with high humidity);
polypropylene film;
foil materials;
membrane films;
glassine.
Requirements for the work performed:
The vapor barrier material must be stretched evenly, without sagging.
There should be an overlap of 10-15 cm between the canvases.
The perimeter allowance must be at least 10 cm.
Roll materials are kept from sagging with thin strips or crate of bars with a section of 30/10 or 20/30.
Step 5. Installation of lining.
First of all, the boards are prepared: they are leveled, treated with a transparent antiseptic.
If it is decided to varnish the lining, it is most convenient to do this at the stage of preparation for installation.
Lathing boards can be fastened in any direction. But first, they choose the fixing method. There are two of them:
on nails or screws;
for kleimers.
install the first board in the place chosen for it;
put a nail at an angle, stepping back 7-10 cm from the edge of the board, but focusing on the location of the lathing bar;
take a hammer and drive in a nail 2/3 of its length;
take the doboinik and drive the nail into the cap.
It is advisable to choose nails galvanized and with a flat head. Such fasteners will be more convenient in the installation of the lining. In addition, galvanized hardware is not exposed to moisture and rust will not appear on them.
Fastening to cleats is the best way, as it avoids holes in the wood, which minimizes the risk of cracking. Stages of work:
along the lathing line, a part of the metal clapboard is inserted into the groove of the lining;
finishing nails nail it to the sheathing bar;
repeat the first two steps at all points of intersection of the lining with the crate.
When installing boards, do not fit them close to each other. It is necessary to leave a damping gap of 2-3 mm. It will compensate for the movement of the wood caused by the compression-expansion forces. They arise under the influence of temperature changes in the room.
If it is decided to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, the first thing to do is choose the right type of wood and type of profile... There are only three standardized grades: A, B and C. If the financial possibilities do not allow you to buy the lining of the first grade (A), you can choose the second (B). They differ mainly in the number and size of knots.
There are lumber manufacturers who offer class paneling "Extra"... You should know that this kind is not in the state standard. It (grade) was invented by manufacturers in order to sell high-quality, but inappropriate first grade, lumber.
It is recommended to choose wood with low resin content... For an economy option, the best choice is spruce. This lining is distinguished by its light color, beautiful texture and durability. Spruce boards have much fewer knots than other conifers.
In the video, let's see a master class on upholstering a wooden ceiling:
