DIY wooden boat repair

Vyksa Nizhny Novgorod region

Repair of a wooden case.

Repair of planking. Separate cladding areas with stripped or soaked wood

you can not change, but restore (fig. 138) using a mastic made from a mixture of VIAM-BZ glue (or epoxy resin) with fine sawdust. Clean the damaged area with a chisel to whole fibers and fill with mastic flush with the edge of the bead. To prevent the mastic from spreading, cover its surface with cellophane or paper and press down with a board and a support. After the mastic has hardened, the board will need to be cleaned with a rasp and emery cloth, and then painted.

In case of significant damage to the skin, inserts are made in its singing. Having outlined the boundaries of the belt to be replaced, free it from the fastenings to the frames and cut it out with a chisel and a narrow hacksaw. Adjust the new workpiece (it should be 2-3 mm thicker than the removed belt) in place and fasten it to the frames with rivets or screws, as is done on this case. From the inside, overlays on the joints from the same board as the insert itself; the overlay should have the length of the entire spacing, and in width should go along the edges to adjacent singing (fig. 139).

Canvas impregnated with paint is laid under the linings.

Sink the heads of screws and rivets into the casing, and seal the recesses above them with glue and sawdust. Sew the fixed new board flush with the rest of the chants. The watertightness of the joints is usually ensured by laying between the boards of coarse calico strips impregnated with oil varnish, caulking or glue (depending on how it was done before).

If you have to replace several adjacent singing, then the joints of the inserts must be spaced along the length of the body so that they are in different spacing.

Repair of the set. The parts of the kit with cracks can not be changed, but reinforced by installing overlays on them - "doublers" of the same section (fig. 140).

Double-sided pads are attached to the main parts with rivets or bolts, overlapping the defective area by 200-250 mm from each end.

Broken or rotted frames are best removed and replaced with new ones. The oak frame must be steamed before being installed in place, then the wood will become elastic and easily bend along the contour. With a small section of the frame, it is wrapped in rags and poured with boiling water for 10-15 minutes or kept wrapped in wet rags over a fire.

Damaged bent frames, stem and other hull parts with a large curvature can be repaired using waterproof glue and a set of thin strips. The rotted section of the frame is cut out with a chisel, as shown in rice. 141, a. The template is removed from the inch board. 1 (it is desirable to give even a slightly greater curvature to its curved side). Then from thin slats 2 (usually their thickness is from 5 to 8 mm) a package of the required section is assembled. The slats, greased with glue on both sides, are easily bent according to the template and clamped with clamps 3 (fig. 141, b). After the glue dries, the workpiece is removed from the template, processed to a clean size and put in place.

If the cross-section of the frame is small, then the slats can be bent directly along the skin, in place, that is, you can do without a template. Rivets will tighten the bag tightly to the casing; you can also use short screws for this purpose, screwing them from the side of the set into the casing, and then into the previously supplied slats.

The same method of "lamination" (that is, gluing in layers) is also recommended for the manufacture of new knits instead of burst (fig. 141, v).

Repair of plywood sheathing. The damaged area is cut out so that a rectangular hole is obtained. Then, two overlays are made of the same plywood as the sheathing: one - exactly along the cutout, and the other with overlapping the holes on each side by 30-40 mm. 'A large pad is used to close the hole on the inside of the case (do not forget to put a thin cloth soaked in thick paint, epoxy or waterproof glue under the pad) and rivet it around the perimeter with thin nails with a pitch of 20-25 mm (brass boot nails are good for this purpose) ... The smaller pad is inserted from the outside flush with the skin and riveted to the inner pad. The finally sealed place is leveled with a putty.

To seal small cracks and holes from the inside, it is better to put a thin board instead of plywood.

To keep the plank deck from leaking.

It is very difficult to eliminate water leakage from old plank decking. If the option of replacing the boards with waterproof plywood for some reason is not applicable, you can save the situation by covering the old deck with canvas (fig. 142)... To do this, you need to remove the bead, all the glazing beads and clamping strips, plan it with a plane and putty the flooring. Then, on a liquid putty (drying oil - 250 g, turpentine - 20 g, desiccant - 40 g, chalk - 690 g) place the previously cut sailcloth, nail it, starting from the stern, with small nails to the coamings of the cabin and hatches and pull it tight to the sides. When all the edges of the fabric are secured, you can reinstall the beads and glazing beads and prime the deck by rubbing in the paint with an end brush. The better the paint penetrates through the pores of the fabric and the tighter the fabric stretches, the higher the durability of the coating will be. On the rice. 142, a shows the option of securing the edge of the canvas with a shoulder, in fig. b - bulwark.

To eliminate water leakage in the deckhouse and deck hatches, remove all lining squares (glazing beads), cut and clean the grooves of the coamings connections with the deck flooring from paint and dirt. Fill the cut grooves with epoxy mastic (always with a plasticizer) with sawdust. Press the cotton cord on the mastic flush into the vertical joints on the wheelhouse. The trim squares are also installed with glue or mastic.

The windows of the portholes must be installed with a sealant, and the metal fittings must be fixed with thin rubber gaskets. If the coamings of the felling were glued from separate boards, then the joints between the boards in the cutouts of the windows must be filled with sealant or glue before installing the glasses.

If the deck boarding is not covered with canvas, it is necessary to dug the waterways, upsetting the tow up to half the thickness of the board; then these grooves are filled with the so-called ship pitch. Its composition: rosin - 4 wt. parts, sulfur - 1 wt. hours, beef lard - 1 wt. h. The boiling point of the components: rosin - 85 °; sulfur - 448 °; fat - 300 °. To prevent the rosin from leaking through the seams, shingles are nailed down at the seams (for example, from the inside of the cabin). After solidification and shrinkage of the composition (after about 10 days), the shingles can be removed.

Adhesives for wooden structures.

The best for gluing and repairing structures on small ships are waterproof cold curing adhesives of the VIAM-BZ, KB-3, KDM-6 brands.

Composition of VIAM-BZ glue: 100 wt. including resin VIAM-B, 10 wt. including acetone and 20 wt. including kerosene contact. Acetone serves to liquefy the resin, the kerosene contact is a hardener and is introduced into the resin immediately before work. The ready-made glue is suitable for work for 2-4 hours. You need to work at a temperature above + 16 ° C, provided that the parts to be glued are well dried and a uniform pressure of 2-4 kgf / cm 2 is ensured. The parts to be glued can be processed after 20-40 hours of exposure. The hardened glue takes on a cherry red color.

KB-3 glue consists of 100 wt. including resin B-3 and 26 wt. including kerosene contact; the way of working is the same as with glue of the VIAM-BZ brand.

Casein adhesives are more readily available, but their low water resistance does not allow them to be used for gluing external hull structures. The casein powder is dissolved in water in a ratio of 1: 1.7 to 1: 2, stirring it for 20 minutes. The glue thickens in 3-4 hours after preparation. With casein glue, you can work at a temperature of 16-20 ° C. It is applied to both glued surfaces at the rate of 100-120 g / m 2. The smeared parts are kept in air for 2-5 minutes, then joined and pressed. Holding under pressure takes 6-8 hours when gluing straight parts at normal temperature, and 10-18 hours for bent parts. The glued parts can be processed 24 hours after gluing. Permissible moisture content of wood when gluing 18-20%.

Adhesive based on ED-5 epoxy resin is widely used. Prepare it as follows. Per 100 wt. hours of resin, poured into glass or enamel dishes, add 15-18 weight. including plasticizer - dibutyl phthalate, with which the resin can be stored for a long time. Immediately before gluing, add 6-8 wt. including polyethylene polyamine, which serves as a hardener. Depending on the temperature of the room in which the gluing is carried out, the gelatinization of the glue occurs in 1.5-6 hours, so it must be cooked in small portions, which can be used in 0.5-1 hours.

The resin with polyethylene polyamine must be thoroughly mixed (this will generate heat). At the end of mixing, it is desirable to keep the glue for 5-10 minutes until the end of the reaction. If the resin is too thick, it can be thinned with a little toluene or acetone (no more than 10%).

Separate areas of the casing wood soaked to a shallow depth can not be changed, but restored using a mastic prepared from a mixture of VIAM-BZ glue (or epoxy resin) with fine sawdust or wood flour. The damaged area is cleaned with a chisel to healthy fibers and filled with mastic flush with the side edges. To prevent the mastic from spreading, its surface is covered with cellophane or paper and pressed with a board and a support (Fig. 307). After the mastic has hardened, the repaired section of the bead must be cleaned with a rasp and emery cloth, and then painted.

In case of significant damage to the casing belt, part of it must be replaced - make an insert. To do this, having outlined the boundaries of the belt to be replaced, free it from fasteners to the set and cut it out using a chisel and a narrow hacksaw. A new planking board (it should be prepared 2-3 mm thicker than the removed belt) is fitted in place and attached to the frames with rivets or screws, as is done on this case. To ensure tightness, strips of coarse calico impregnated with varnish, glue or thickly rubbed paint must be laid in the grooves between the boards. At the joints from the inside, overlays are installed from the same board as the insert itself. It is desirable that the pad has the length of the entire spacing, and overlaps the grooves of adjacent singing in width (Fig. 308, a). The butt pad is placed on a canvas pad impregnated with thickly rubbed paint or red lead. The heads of the screws (or rivets) securing the insert and cover plate to other plating and set are recessed into the plating by 6-8 mm, and the recesses above them are sealed with wooden corks or sawdust with glue. Then the boards of the replaced poyas are flush with the rest of the cladding, putty and painted.

If you have to replace several adjacent singing, then the joints of the inserts must be spaced along the length of the body so that they are in different spacing.

Repair of body kit parts.

Sections of damaged (burst or detached from the skin) frames can not be changed, but reinforced by installing duplicate linings of the same section (Fig. 308, b). Usually, the "understudy" is attached to the main frame with rivets or thin bolts, overlapping the defective area by 200-250 mm from each end.

Broken or rotted frames are best removed and replaced with new ones.

Before being installed in place, the oak frame is steamed by placing the workpiece in a pipe with a small amount of water, which is heated over a fire or a blowtorch flame. With a small cross-section of the frame, it is wrapped in rags and poured with boiling water for 10-15 minutes or kept wrapped in wet rags over a fire. As a result, the oak lath acquires elasticity and can easily be bent along the body contour.

Damaged bent frames, stem and other hull parts with a large curvature can be repaired using waterproof glue and a set of thin strips. A rotten or burst section of the frame is cut out with a chisel, as shown in Fig. 309. Using a 6-mm wire, a template is removed along the contour of the frame, which is transferred to an inch board 1. Having processed the curved edge of the board, a tsulagu is obtained, along which the frame can be glued from thin strips 2 (usually their thickness is from 5 to 8 mm). The slats, greased with glue on both sides, are easily bent along the tsulag and pressed against it with the help of clamps 3. After the glue has dried, the workpiece is removed from the template, processed to a clean size and put in place. The connection of the ends of the newly processed part with the old frame is performed with a mustache using glue.

If the cross-section of the frame is small, then the slats can be bent directly along the skin, in place, without making a tsulaga. When installing rivets, the package is tightly pulled to the casing. You can also use short screws for this purpose, screwing them into the casing from the side of the set, and then into the previously supplied slats.

The same lamination method (that is, gluing parts in layers) is also recommended for the manufacture of new knits instead of burst ones (Fig. 310, c).

Repair of plywood and veneer sheathing.

The damaged area is cut out so that a rectangular hole is obtained. Then two overlays are made of the same plywood as the sheathing; one - exactly along the cutout, and the other with overlapping holes on each side by 30-40 mm (Fig. 310, a). A large overlay is used to close the hole on the inside of the case (under the overlay it is necessary to put a thin cloth soaked in thick paint, epoxy resin or waterproof glue) and rivet it along the perimeter to the casing with thin nails with a pitch of 20-25 mm; brass boot nails are good for this purpose. The smaller pad is inserted from the outside flush with the skin and riveted to the inner pad. The finally sealed place is leveled with a putty, polished and painted in the usual way.

With significant hole sizes, instead of a solid internal plywood lining, butt strips of the same plywood are used, if it is sufficiently waterproof, or planed from strips (Fig. 310, b). If we are talking about a small hole in relation to the thickness of the sheathing, it is enough to cut the edges of the hole with a mustache and put an insert from the same plywood (Fig. 310, e).

To repair plywood sheathing, you can use ordinary construction plywood if soaked in natural drying oil. This is how it is done. A layer of drying oil is applied with a brush, after which the plywood surface is ironed with an iron heated to a temperature of 150-200 ° C. The procedure is repeated until the plywood stops absorbing drying oil. With this impregnation, drying oil penetrates into the plywood down to the glue layer. The inner side of the casing must be impregnated before installation on the kit, the outer side after.

With a slight curvature of the repaired section of the boat hull made of veneer (molded plywood), you can use the same methods as when repairing plywood sheathing. When replacing a double-curved sheathing section, it is necessary to glue this section out of veneer layers or narrow strips of thin waterproof plywood. In this case, the damaged veneer strips are removed from the skin, spreading the cutout border in the form of steps.After thoroughly cleaning the gluing surfaces, new strips of veneer or plywood are placed on the glue, pressing them in with small nails with "flies" - pieces of plywood, splitting which after the glue has hardened, you can release the nail heads to pull them out of the sheathing. The nail holes are filled with epoxy glue and wood flour, as are the gaps between the new veneer strips.

Covering the deck with sailcloth and eliminating water flow in the deckhouse.

If the deck on a cabin boat has leaks, you can get rid of them by covering the deck with fiberglass on an epoxy binder or canvas on a liquid oil putty. To do this, it is necessary to remove the beads, glazing beads and clamping strips, plan it with a plane and putty the deck flooring. Then, on a liquid putty (drying oil - 250 g, turpentine - 20 g, desiccant - 40 g, chalk - 690 g) put the previously cut canvas, nail it, starting from the stern, with small nails to the coamings of the cabin and hatches and pull it tight to the sides. When all the edges of the fabric are secured, you can reinstall the beads and glazing beads and prime the deck by rubbing in the paint with an end brush. The better the paint penetrates through the pores of the fabric and the tighter the fabric stretches, the more reliable the coating will be. In fig. 311, and shows a variant of securing the edge of the canvas with a shoulder; in fig. 311, b - bulwark.

The water flow of the felling in the connection with the deck and deck hatches along the coamings can be eliminated only after removing all lining squares, cutting and cleaning the grooves and filling them with mastic composed of epoxy glue (with a plasticizer) and sawdust.

The spring sun drove away the snow. After the flood, the river entered the banks. Now time is more valuable than money: there are only a few days left before navigation.

Let's check how the boat's hull feels after hibernation under the snow. Let's take off the tarpaulin heated by the sun. The air stagnant in the wheelhouse shoves with dampness. Rather open doors, windows, hatches - all that is possible - and ventilate the room! The plan for the spring repair of the boat has long been drawn up. But, having cleaned the room, wiped the deck and seats - the dust still leaked under the roof of the "house", which was built over the boat in the fall, we sit in the cockpit and once again look through the to-do list.

It's good if the team has experienced people - you can distribute responsibilities without hesitation. Indeed, it depends on how the work will be performed - whether the boat will serve reliably throughout the season or will start to leak water within a week after launching; whether the engine will start "from half a turn" or in the middle of summer it will have to be handed over to a repair shop.

What if the team consists of newcomers? Well, then, before starting work, it is better to consult with knowledgeable people. We offer some of these tips to the attention of our readers.

Putties serve as a kind of leveling substrate under varnish-and-paint coatings and, of course, are chosen depending on the service conditions, the qualities of the surface to be painted and the composition of the coating. We will consider only those of them (Table 1) that can be prepared and used by amateurs when painting and repairing wooden cases.

The binder should not contain mechanical impurities (otherwise it will have to be filtered) or contain any solvents. Do not mix binder of different grades. Only if this condition is met is the high quality of the putty guaranteed.

Fillers and dyes must be sieved before the tooth powder is ground; they should also be free of any foreign impurities.

Putty is prepared on a baking sheet with curved edges, or on a sheet of plywood with slats stuffed along the edges. It is recommended to first mix all the dry ingredients together, and then add a binder prepared according to the recipe to them. It is advisable to put the prepared putty in a plastic bag, from where it can be consumed by squeezing it out like from a tube.Putty can be stored in plastic bags for several months.

During the work, a spatula and a special scraper knife - a palette knife are used, with which they grind small lumps of dry components and mix the putty on a baking sheet. Instead of a palette knife, you can take a table knife with a wide round end, or make a palette knife yourself from a piece of a band saw (20-30 mm wide), sharpening it, as possible, from the end side.

A new surface made from clean-cut fresh boards must be carefully inspected and properly prepared before applying the filler. It should be borne in mind that:

• a) the width of the "spreading" of the grooves of adjacent boards should not exceed 5 mm, and the joints should not exceed 3 mm;
• b) the caulk must be tightly set into the depth of the groove by 2 mm;
• c) the edges along the grooves should not have cracks going to the middle of the board, chips or dents; chips and dents should be lightly cleaned with a knife;
• d) resinous pockets (i.e. the interlaminarity of the wood with the resin coming out) should be cut out; if the depth of the cut is more than 5 mm, it must be sealed with a bar on drying oil with a wooden nail (see sketch), if up to 5 mm, fill it with a cloth soaked in drying oil (otherwise the putty will crack and may fall off);
• e) the entire surface must be sanded - best of all with a glass cloth on a cloth basis, screwing it onto a block and tearing off the worn-out cloth as you work.

Then the surface should be proliferated by preheating the drying oil in bottles, lowered to the neck in hot water. Hot linseed oil has a lower viscosity and therefore penetrates well into wood to a depth of 1-1.5 mm. Due to the release of layers of wood on the front face of the board, drying oil will be absorbed into it in different ways; if after drying of the drying oil on the glossy surface, individual matte spots are found, they must be proliferated a second time.

Drying oil protects the wood surface from moisture and provides better adhesion (adhesion) of the putty to the surface. If this is not done, when wet, the putty will flake off in layers along with the paint applied to it.

The old wooden boat surface should be prepared even more carefully. First of all, you need to remove the old, poorly adhering paint. This is done most often with a metal brush, cleaning the entire surface along and across. In places where the paint is peeling, it is removed with a sharp spatula, a scrubber or a table knife with a rounded end.

There are places where a layer of paint lies without any visible defects (bulges and cracks), but if you pick it up, it flies off in layers. This means that the wood is soaked through with water and, having lost its strength, has passed into the stage of decay (rottenness).

Sometimes a chemical method is used to remove old paint. The compositions of the pastes (with caustic soda) used for this purpose are shown in table. 2. The method of making pastes is simple: dissolve caustic soda in water, then grease and dry components. The thoroughly mixed composition is applied in a 5 mm layer using a wooden spatula and kept for 1-8 hours, depending on the "age" of the paint being removed (if the temperature is less than 20 ° C, the holding time under the paste increases). Remove the paste together with the softened paint with a metal spatula.

Some hobbyists remove old paint by softening it with a blowtorch flame. This method cannot be used on small wooden ships - it is dangerous.

After all the low-holding paint has been removed (and after applying the chemical method, the entire surface is washed and dried), the condition of the wood is inspected. Trim and clean all the "soaked" and split edges of the boards, clean up dents. Wet wood is carefully pruned to determine the depth of its rottenness. This should be done in order to determine if the planking board can be left or replaced.If the board is struck to a depth of 3-4 mm, and then there is strong healthy wood, the affected surface should be planed with a sherhebel and then with a plane.

Drying before puttingtying is best done on a warm windy day under a canopy, protecting the surface from direct sunlight. Drying in the sun and wind at the same time can lead to the formation of through cracks, especially if the thickness of the boards is less than 15 mm.

Then, as in the preparation of the case from new wood, the surface should be impregnated with hot drying oil; it is recommended to apply a second time not only to matte areas, but also to the entire surface.

New wood is putty completely, that is, its entire surface, and old (repaired surfaces), depending on the state, completely or partially. Shallow but deep potholes are filled not with putty, but with cotton wool soaked in drying oil; after drying and settling of the cotton wool, only a slight depression will remain for the putty.

Putty is applied with a spatula (preferably metal than wooden), leading it at an angle of 60-75 ° to the surface. In places with difficult contours, it is convenient to use rubber spatulas. It is necessary to press the mass of putty so that it enters all the recesses, and on even smooth surfaces it lay down as thin as possible. A layer of putty more than 0.5 mm will not only dry for a long time, but may crack. If necessary, putty is applied 2-3-4 times, allowing each layer to dry for 1-2 days. Separate areas with removed paint are putty 2-3 times to the thickness of a firmly standing old layer. In this case, covering the putty areas with linseed oil, the old remaining paint must also be wetted. The linseed oil film will cover the entire surface and will serve as a kind of protective jacket, which, together with the applied layers of paint, will ensure it is completely waterproof.

After the putty dries out, check for cracks in the places where several layers are overlapping, and start cleaning the body with a pumice stone or coarse emery cloth (linen). Then the surface is thoroughly wiped from dust and drying and priming begins.

In all cases, after filling, the surface is primed with a continuous layer. The primer and putty should match the color of the external decorative paint as much as possible (for this purpose, a pigment of the corresponding color is introduced into the putty).

The primer applied to the putty should dry well (2-3 days). The matte spots found after that, indicating the complete absorbency of the primer, must be covered with a second layer of primer. Only after achieving a uniform glossiness of the entire primed surface can you start decorative painting.

Start filling, priming and painting the hull from a level just above the waterline (approx. 50 mm) towards the keel. Then you can move on to finishing the topside; thanks to this sequence, the underwater part has time to dry out better, and its coating lasts longer. Depending on the size of the surface, the coating can be applied sequentially by dividing the hull into 2-3 horizontal stripes, for example, the underwater part of the side, the cheekbone and the bottom, and from the waterline upwards - onto the lower and upper parts of the side.

Once again, we note that all work on surface preparation, preparation and application of putty must be performed carefully and accurately, with strict adherence to the specified recipes and modes.

Repairing a wooden boat is a task within the reach of anyone with construction skills and tools. Otherwise…

Repairing a wooden boat is a task within the reach of anyone with construction skills and tools. Otherwise, repairing a wooden boat with your own hands will be difficult. It is better to seek professional help.But let's try to figure out how to repair a wooden boat yourself and using the tools at hand.

After all, lovers of hunting and fishing, as well as avid tourists, are well aware of how useful a boat can be. That's just, like any thing, a long-term and often-operated vessel, in the end, falls into disrepair. This, of course, is not a reason to part with her. Better try to fix it.

First you need to stock up on everything you need.
To start repairing a wooden boat, you need the following tools: chisel, hammer, rivets, screws, screws, rasp, sandpaper, hacksaw. In addition, you need to collect the materials necessary for the work: boards, plywood, sawdust (or wood flour), glue, mastic, putty, paint. Of course, depending on what kind of damage you need to fix, you may not need all of the listed items, and you may need to get something else additionally.

Breakdowns during the repair of a wooden boat can be very different, and in each case, a different method of repair is required. Let's take a look at the options.

Prolonged contact of a tree with water, in the end, leads to the destruction and decay of individual parts of the body. Even treatment with water-repellent agents cannot completely prevent this.
Damaged areas do not always need to be replaced; sometimes you can try to repair them. For these purposes, you will need wooden boat mastic. The damaged area is cleaned of destroyed and rotten wood, after which it is filled with mastic. To prevent the latter from flowing out, it should be pressed, for example, with paper. And to increase the strength of the repaired area, wood shavings are added to the mastic (wood flour can be used).

Processing a wooden boat with rubber-bitumen mastic is a common and effective way to solve the problem of hull damage.

By the way! The main property of rubber-bitumen mastic is high water resistance. It also perfectly protects the treated surfaces from corrosion and decay.

If the damage is extensive, you will have to resort to replacing the leaky area. To do this, you need to remove the mount and cut out the part to be replaced. In its place, they put a new board, perfectly fitted in size, and fasten it to the frames with screws or rivets. For greater strength from the inside, the repaired area is reinforced with an additional wooden plate. To ensure tightness, all the cracks of the wooden boat being repaired must be laid with strips of coarse calico, having previously impregnated them with glue, the heads of the screws should be immersed in the skin, and the holes formed above them should be filled with glue and sawdust.

By the way! Waterproof adhesives VIAM-BZ, KB-3, KDM-6 are best suited for gluing ship parts. They will provide reliable waterproofing. Casein adhesives are much less resistant to water, therefore they are used for gluing the internal parts of the case. Glue containing epoxy resins has good water resistance, therefore it is also widely used in the repair of wooden boats.

When repairing plywood sheathing, a rectangular hole is cut out in the body and sealed with two overlays (one must exactly correspond to the dimensions of the hole, the second (internal) must be slightly larger).
After the completion of the restoration work, the renewed area is subjected to cosmetic repairs: putty and paint.

In this situation, when repairing a wooden boat, it is important to decide whether the frames can be repaired or whether it is easier to replace them with new ones. If repair is still possible, then special overlays are installed on the damaged area, overlapping it in size. Fastening is carried out with rivets.

Another common reason for wooden boat repairs is leaks.

To do this, you first need to remove all structures on it from the deck flooring in order to prepare it for repair.If a leak occurs in the wheelhouse, then it is necessary to remove all squares, cut and clean the grooves. Only after that you can start fixing the breakdown.

Then, the deck flooring is putty, a piece of canvas is placed on top, nailed to the coamings with small nails and attached to the sides. After that, the deck is primed and painted.

P. S. Do-it-yourself wooden boat repair is not at all difficult, as it might seem at first glance. But if you still doubt your capabilities, then do not hesitate to contact the specialists.
Give your boat another chance and it will serve you for years!

There is a surviving, but generally very strong flat-bottomed boat, such

In late summer, it began to leak. I discovered a leak under the cross-piece (against which you rest with your feet) - a tree that is almost rotten through (or completely through and through - I did not pick "to avoid") a tree with a diameter of 5-7 centimeters.

Attention, question! How to repair? 🙂

The following comes to mind - we remove rot to a living tree, mix PVA with sawdust and close it up. A viable option?

PS: do not offer to change the board entirely, the question is about local repairs.

Until the whole ship is made up of patches 🙂

Ok, the option with a "plug" is accepted as an option 😉

Joshua Slokaum was the first in the world to go around the world alone - so what kind of magical ship did he have ?! An ordinary fishing flank found abandoned on the beach and completely repaired by Joshua himself.

Fear not, wooden ships have always been repaired like that. Just strive to make the patch with high quality, remove rot without mercy until a completely good tree. Epoxy is good as glue, but the bad thing is that the tree comes off from it along the fibers of the tree.

You probably shouldn't glue the whole boat on top of fiberglass - otherwise the wood inside will start to rot faster, i.e. this will require taking out the boat after each sail and drying.

uhty and put me in a wooden cork like this. / in pre-cut holes

It is tarred, but also baked.

I thought this option too. How exactly to cut out such a hole and the corresponding cork hole, the cork of my mind I will not know ..

Duc do not think downwardly with a jib, a hole and a bit more
adjust with a knife
and caulk

Repairing a plywood boat is a rather difficult task that not everyone is able to cope with. There are many nuances here that you must pay attention to. Repair of plywood boats and boats can be carried out by special workshops. If a person has money, then it is better to go there. However, not everyone can afford it. In some situations, it is much easier and more profitable to do the work yourself.

Plywood boats should be checked from time to time and, if a breakdown is found, contact a specialist.

Repairing a plywood boat requires experience in plumbing and construction. A person must be able to use a certain set of tools. How a plywood boat is repaired will be discussed further.

Depending on which part of the boat will have to be repaired, the following tools and materials will be needed:

• wood flour;
• mastic;
• wooden beam;
• hammer;
• rasp;
• sandpaper;
• chisel;
• boards;
• rivets;
• dye;
• glue;
• wood sawdust;
• plywood.

The sheathing of a plywood boat deteriorates due to frequent contact with water.

Nowadays, sheathing made of boards or plywood can easily deteriorate. There are many reasons for this. The main thing is that the tree, in contact with water, gradually gets wet. Situations may arise when not all parts are rotten through and through. In this case, mastic can be used for repairs. In the process of carrying out work, wood sawdust or flour is added to it.The area that was damaged during operation must be cleaned of the remains of low-quality wood, and then covered with mastic flush with the side edges. The mastic can spread during the work process. To prevent this from happening, you need to stick paper or polyethylene on it. They are additionally pressed with a support. After the mastic dries, you can additionally process the area with a rasp and sandpaper. After that, it is colored.

When it comes to significant damage to the skin, then you cannot do without partial replacement of elements. In this situation, an insert is made. First you have to disassemble the part that needs to be replaced. For these purposes, it is customary to use a chisel and a narrow hacksaw. After that, it is worth removing all the old fasteners, and then the damaged area itself. Next, you need to prepare a new board. It will be secured in place with screws or rivets. The specific choice is made depending on what kind of fasteners were used on the case. The board should fit perfectly into place.

Canvas will be needed to make the butt pad.

Do not forget about tightness. In this situation, it is best to use coarse calico, which is impregnated with special compounds, and then stacked between the boards. From the inside, it is worth mounting overlays from the same board. In this case, the butt pad is made of canvas, which is additionally impregnated with thick paint. If screws or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the elements, then they must be sunk into the casing without fail. The depth is then reached approximately 6-9 mm. A small depression remains above them. It also needs to be repaired. This is done with sawdust glue or wood corks.

Both options are acceptable in this situation. Now you can start planing the boards of the hull. This is done flush with the rest of the details. To obtain a more reliable structure, it should be putty or painted. You can combine these two techniques to make the design really high quality.

Plywood boat construction.

If, as a result of the operation of a plywood boat, the frames were damaged, then they also need to be repaired. They do not need to be changed, but you will need to install special overlays that will duplicate them. This assumes that they will have the same cross section. Typically, these pads are attached with rivets. The defective area must be covered. For this, a stock is made when preparing a part of 200 mm.

If the frames are in poor condition, they should be replaced. You shouldn't use regular overlays.

Frames are quite complex structural details. When preparing them, it is imperative to hold the workpiece for some time in hot water, which is poured into a special pipe. If we talk about details that are small in size, then you can use wet rags for wrapping. As a result, you need to get wood that will deform without problems. It needs to be bent along the body contour.

Sometimes special rails are used to attach a new frame. They will also have to be bent. This will require hot water. They can be installed both on glue and on self-tapping screws.

Sheathing most often suffers during the operation of a plywood boat. Accordingly, she needs repairs.

First, it is worth deciding on the parameters of the damaged area.

When inspecting the skin, it is necessary to determine the area of ​​the damaged section of the boat for repair.

It is always cut in such a way that a rectangular hole is obtained. Then two overlays are made of plywood of the same brand that was used for the sheathing. The first one will be used for exterior decoration, and the second one will cover the skin from the inside.The one that is used from the inside must be larger. It is attached with thin nails.

It is important to adhere to a certain step. It should be approximately 20-25 mm. The smallest trim is installed externally. It is fastened with rivets. The component is flush mounted. Now you can perform cosmetic work, which consists of puttying, sanding and painting. Of course, the boat is unlikely to become ideal, but this measure will allow it to return to working condition.

If we are talking about significant damage to the cladding, then a solid sheet of plywood is indispensable. Special pads of the same material are used. If plywood was used, which does not have good resistance to water exposure, then planed battens can be used for this purpose.

As for the material for repairing the cladding, in most cases, ordinary construction plywood can be used. However, it must first be impregnated with linseed oil. Only in this way it will not give any leaks. A special technology is used for processing. With the help of a brush, a special drying oil is applied to the plywood. It should be ironed with an iron preheated to a temperature of 150-200 ° C. This procedure is very laborious and time-consuming. The drying oil is applied to the plywood until it stops absorbing it. It penetrates right down to the adhesive layer. It is important to follow the rule - the inner side is impregnated before installation on the set, and the outer side after installation.

To eliminate the water leakage of the boat deck, it is necessary to lay a canvas on it.

Sometimes situations arise when a leak appears on the deck of a cabin boat. Of course, you should get rid of such a nuisance. It can harm everything on the ship, and in the end, simply destroy its structure. To eliminate it, canvas on a liquid oil putty is most often used. Sometimes it is replaced with fiberglass.

The renovation begins with the preparation of the deck flooring. All constructs that are located on it are removed. These are collars and clamping strips. As a result, the flooring must remain completely clean. Then, with the help of putty, the canvas is impregnated, which is subsequently nailed to the sides in an interference fit. It is very important that this is done using just such a technology. Small nails are best for fastening. After the installation has been completed, you can again mount all the previously removed constructs in their places.

Don't forget about additional activities. The deck must be primed. The paint is rubbed in with an end brush. Here the pattern is extremely simple - the better the tension of the canvas and the deeper the paint penetrates into its structure, the more reliable the coating itself will be.

Leaks can also form in the wheelhouse. This work is one of the most difficult of those discussed earlier. If the wheelhouse leak is formed in conjunction with the deck and deck hatches along the coamings, then work can be performed only after removing all the finishing squares.

This is followed by the stage of cutting and cleaning the grooves. This can be done using a variety of tools. The preparatory work does not end there. The grooves that have been loosened and cleaned must be finished with mastic. She is able to fill all the space that will be given to her. Most often, the mastic is made up of epoxy glue. However, it alone cannot be used. Better to add sawdust to it. Sometimes they are replaced with wood flour.

Thus, there are many different types of breakdowns found in plywood boats. All of them are removed by various methods and materials. None of them are universal. After reading the above, you will be able to repair your plywood boat yourself.

Of course, this business is worth doing if you have certain skills in working with the tool. Otherwise, it is worth contacting specialists. However, knowing the basics, you can always monitor the implementation of activities.