Do-it-yourself Nexia repair of the engine

Nexia is a repairable vehicle that can be serviced independently. Almost every Nexia owner will be able to perform the following repair operations himself:

• Unloading the contact group of the ignition lock. The contact group is one of the main "sores" of Nexia, due to which, at the wrong moment, the Nexia can stop starting. Fortunately, this problem can be easily solved - with the help of a conventional relay, we unload the contact group, and this problem is forever solved!
• Replacing the front and rear wheel bearings. Hub bearings wear out on any vehicle and may need to be replaced over time. Replacing bearings is not very difficult thanks to the included instructions.

FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE in the column on the LEFT there is an index according to the materials of THIS SECTION - you will find all the information you need!

Nexia self-repair results

As already mentioned, Nexia, unlike most foreign cars, is very maintainable, and almost everyone can replace individual components and parts. Well, of course, by doing the repairs yourself, you will save a lot of money, which you can then spend on more useful things.

For a year now, I have topped up oil somewhere in a liter for 2000-3000 km. Despite the fact that the car did not smoke. Since two years ago I changed the valve stem seals and the result was not given, it was decided to climb into the block, remove the piston and look at the oil valve rings. I thought about this even probably in September last year, and until this month I was buying spare parts, consumables and other crap. As a result, I was glad that I did not disassemble in winter in January, because according to the results below, I would have gone nuts from the cold.

Well, let's go in order, let's break it down:

As you can see, the candles were on the rim in soot, someone told me that this is all normal, but I did not believe and in the end it was not in vain.

I was pleased with the ramp with injectors, the forces are clean, I washed it in 2012 when I bought the car, that is, for 3 years I was pouring gasoline on the topline and gas industry, I did not see any problems with fuel. Do not pour shit and do not fucking wash (this is me for lovers of the annual cleaning of nozzles)

Like 2 years ago, the color of the varnished metal was and is! It seems that everything is as it is.

This is where all the good things end, alas ... Having ripped off the head, I looked into the cylinders and saw what was ofigel, everything was in fierce soot, karosts and other oily deposits. Although 2 years ago in the BZ there is a photo of how everything was clean there

For 4 years of operation, I changed the antifreeze 2 times for sure. But on the hike before me they poured either water or some kind of shit that fouled up all the holes in the cylinder head gasket and all this rust in the stove hike, now I think it needs to be changed. After removing all the liquid from the channels with an enema, he began cleaning the top of the block.

Unscrewing the pallet and barely tearing it off the existing sealant, unscrewed the connecting rod caps and began to get the piston.

Well, the actual diagnosis is on the face

The compression rings were still rotating, but the oil-filling rings were firmly stuck in the piston groove.

The whole thing was laid out in cylinders and left to soak in gasoline / kerosene overnight.

The next day, my friend and I decided to remove the pump from its place, as you know in Nexia, it sits on a smooth landing and is tightened with only 3 bolts. But it was not there, the gas wrench and a special wrench cut for 41 sheds did not work, the pump sat tightly in the block. We thought for a long time what to do, and as a result, removing the supply pipe into the pomp with blows of a hammer through the rod, the pump flew into the pit. The result is obvious. Conclusion one "continue" to hammer x ** on the routine replacement of fluids!

The day continued with a very cheerful work, when I took out a piston lying in kerosene and gasoline - I did not want to clean it, rub it to the point with a metal brush as if it were impossible. Therefore, on the topics on the Internet, I decided to use ATTSK household chemicals for cleaning gas stoves - SHUMANIT. 300 rubles per bubble.

This tool is written not recommended for use for aluminum, but it is understandable, shumanite oxidizes aluminum, but that did not stop me. And 4 hours for 4 pistons and lo and behold, all the oil shit just got off with a bang!

During the cleaning breaks, for a variety of work, I took up the correct installation of heating. Mounting kit # 1301 was purchased. He assumed, according to the instructions, to install the outlet pipe into the fitting installed in the plug of the cylinder block. I will tell you one thing in the photo you can see what is in the engine compartment now and what is not. And I will say that, as they say, it is easy to remove the block cap - YES HERE THERE. For half an hour he was smoking, prying on and unrolling through the upper channel of the block. But the operation was successful and the choke was installed!

By the evening of May 1, the cleaning work was completed. In the morning of the same day, my friend and I drove to the car market.
I was thinking of using everything for rigging the installation of the rings - a beer can and a clamp. But in the store I found a special mandrel, the money was only 440 rubles. I didn’t bother and bought it, and as I understood it was not in vain, it’s not just convenient with her, but just how convenient it is.

By the way, I want to say that I learned a lot of what theory from the “Theory of internal combustion engines” which Travnikov reads, there is a very large channel on YouTube, I advise everyone who is interested or who is going to do something similar.

Due to the fact that there are a lot of photos, the continuation follows in part 2.

Greetings to all who are interested in my topic!
in it I will tell and show you how I did the repair of a 200,000 km dvigla!
IMMEDIATELY I WANT TO WARN the report is not very informative, because it was cool, and I did not want to spend extra time on photographing

Yes, and I did such a serious repair half a year ago, and for the first time in my life (before that there were only replacement of brakes and grenades)

it all started with a camshaft (urgent replacement was required), well, as always, more

So what has been done:
replaced: camshaft, distribution oil seal, connecting rod bushings, piston rings, valve stem seals; gaskets: cylinder head, valve cover, pallet; rocker all (except one), candles, filters: air, oil; well, of course oil, antifreeze
and now everything is in order, LET'S GO.

The tool used: all kinds of wrenches (open-end, union, heads, torque wrench, drying machine, hammers, brushes, tweezers, of course something else (I just don't remember)

first of all we jack up higher (it is better to do everything in a pit)

we drain the oil, antifreeze, remove all the hoses, tubes, wires, the air filter together with the intake, box and corrugation so as not to interfere, unscrew everything that is screwed to the engine (I will not paint, everything is instinctively clear, the cylinder head and valve cover mounting bolts in in a certain order, (the order is indicated in the books, I can not write because I lost the book).
remove the valve cover (some call it a distribution cover) everything is simple,
then the head, better together. For a long time they pulled with a friend, pulled nothing, but all because of the invisible bolts holding the intake manifold, here they are (you can see the current from below)

twisted, shook and everything got off.
And 😮 I see this


The gasket is also full, the current, that if your mileage is about the same but there are no complaints about the work of the engine, it is better to change the gasket, otherwise it will crumble, clog up the CO and overheat.

neatly cleaned the whole thing

we climb down! remove the pallet, unscrew the connecting rods and push out the pistons with a stick. we number the pistons in order to put them in the same order, also with inserts (if there is no production)
remove the rings and clean

and clean

then wash, dry, put on the rings, put on new liners (after having lubricated with oil)
we put each piston in the same cylinder from which we got it.
and then the question arises: how can the rings be shoved into the cylinder? and here the clamp will help us and

cut the strip around, put it on the piston, tighten it with a clamp and slowly drive the piston into the cylinder.

(Pts it is important that the assistant guides the connecting rods from below so that they do not hit the knee. we fix the connecting rods, put a new gasket on the pallet (smeared with sealant) and twist the pallet. That's it with the pistons.
that's how they became

NEXT HEAD

horror too
cleaned everything from the underside with a knife and a metal brush
dry up
everything is also simple: the desiccant was used from 16 valve basins like, this is how it is

I also need tweezers and an assistant.
we put a 22 head or something like that under the dry valve (in short, so that the valve rested deadly against a hard surface), we cling a short pendant to a bolt previously threaded through the head, we rest the long one against the valve disc and press. the assistant holds the cylinder head so as not to tip over and pulls out the crackers with tweezers.
we put everything in complete set according to numbered boxes, because everything must be put in the same places
i did so as always, clean, wash.

there was a problem with the wetsuits.
almost none of them compensated for the gap 😮 you press on it and it stands dead
most of them stood dead in their beds, got out with such pliers with gloves on sponges not to scratch Schaub

current when I noticed that the glove was rubbed, I realized that the pliers would sooner be erased than the wetsuit would be scratched))

Karoch took out all the wetsuits, disassembled, washed, oiled, decided to immediately pump the oil into them with a syringe, assembled and put it in the HEAD, which had already been washed many times and oiled.
It is easier to dry out escho than to dry out. I did it myself.
then the sealant-gasket-sealant we fasten the whole thing as it is written in the book (with a torque wrench)

And finally they came to the hero of the occasion himself
CAMSHAFT
remove and put it and the blind man can, I note that we press the oil seal like this: insert a new one as far as it will go, put the old one on top and press it in with light hammer blows, do not forget to rinse the current and lubricate the camshaft pastel and the camshaft itself.
about the marks on the timing belt, etc., do not bother
the fact is that when you put the pistons on the knee, you will turn over the marks more than once and there will be no sense from them, I myself marked on the belt what and how, fastened it with a wire to the star, and then suffered for a long time putting everything according to my old marks.
there marks are already everywhere: on the protective cover of the belt, on the star (we combine them together) and on the wheel (I don’t remember what it’s called), which is attached to the crankshaft, we combine the mark with the mark on the engine itself (very unobtrusive, there are no pictures, I can’t explain. twist the flashlight and see for yourself.
it will remain the current distributor to twist and truncate.

developing distribution and rocker

we disassemble the valve cover, in my especially marked area, there is a lot of soot or dirt in it, but you will understand hell there (but considering that I drove about 15 thousand km with a knocking distribution, there were a lot of shavings), we collect, set

then we mount everything that we dismantled, well, as usual: liquids, filters, etc.

BE VERY CAREFUL, DO NOT HURRY, CHECK EVERYTHING A FEW TIMES,

I did not put one connecting rod liner (I noticed when I put all the pistons, and the liner was extra)) and if I didn’t notice 😮 😮
I did not add coolant a little (only 5 liters was not enough; D noticed after starting, it warmed up suspiciously quickly)
poorly stretched the cylinder head (as a result of which the gases in the CO and press through the expansion tank), oddly enough, it was stretched with the dynamo as expected, after it was tightened by hand to the stop

BUT schA, thank God it drives (fie three times) thrust has increased, the start-up is easier, the consumption is less. more throttle response became. I'm happy with the caroch.
everything about everything took 2 and a half days (one of them celebrated bro's birthday)
if you do it constantly three of us, then max 36 hours will take with all the smoke breaks.

like everything that I remember outlined! I hope that this topic will help someone.

will ask questions, if possible I will answer.
there will be comments, poke your nose))

P.S forum helped a lot, if not for him, then he would never have taken up such a thing

Daewoo Nexia is a Korean compact class passenger sedan that replaced the Daewoo Lemans model with the bestseller in Russia in 1994 and is still being produced practically unchanged in Uzbekistan. In addition to Uzbek and Korean, on the roads of Russia there are “Rostov” and “Taganrog” copies of the late 90s (on the “Rostov”, as well as on the Korean, unlike the “Uzbek” and “Taganrog”, bumpers painted in body color were installed and other rear lights). In the automotive market of Asian countries, Daewoo Nexia was supplied under the name Daewoo Cielo.

The exterior of Daewoo Nexia is already difficult to assess, such as the exterior of the VAZ 2110 car, it has become so familiar. It can be said unambiguously that the design of Daewoo Nexia is unlikely to represent any artistic value, however, this is hardly important for an inexpensive utilitarian car. In 2003, the "Uzbek" Nexia underwent restyling - the bumpers began to be painted in the body color, the radiator lining changed (in addition, in the "DOHC" version, the rear crystal lights and trim on the trunk lid were installed on the car, the moldings became wider). Although our compatriot knows the car Daewoo Nexia exclusively with a sedan body (only such cars were assembled in Russia and Uzbekistan), the range of Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Lemans) bodies in Korea also included three- and five-door hatchbacks.

Inside, Daewoo Nexia looks very conservative - straight lines and dark tones prevail. From today's point of view, the design of the interior of Daewoo Nexia is undeniably outdated, but from a functional point of view, it is still quite comfortable.

The Nexia engine range consists of two gasoline engines: the first - with a volume of 1.5 liters and 16 valves with two camshafts, produces about 90 hp. (this engine was installed on the "Korean" Daewoo Nexia from the very moment of their appearance, and on the "Uzbek" - only since 2003), the second - an 8-valve single-shaft with a volume of 1.5 liters produces about 75 hp.

Front suspension Daewoo Nexia - McPherson type. Rear suspension Daewoo Nexia -. Both front and rear Daewoo Nexia has anti-roll bars. The ground clearance height (clearance) of Daewoo Nexia is 150 mm. Nexia was often equipped with an ABS system, in which case the car has disc rear brakes. The Daewoo Nexia has a rack and pinion steering gear, equipped with an optional hydraulic booster.

Daewoo Nexia is a front-wheel drive vehicle equipped with both a mechanical 5-speed and an automatic 4-speed (3-speed + OVERDIVE) gearbox.

Daewoo Nexia, due to the simple suspension of a rather old design, cannot boast of impeccable handling, however, when using the car not for racing, but as a family car, the suspension capabilities should be quite enough.

Based on 10 years of operating experience, Nexia can be described as reliable. Even the suspension of Daewoo Nexia, due to its simple design, rarely requires attention. In no case should you forget about timely and full-fledged service of Daewoo Nexia. The durability of the Daewoo Nexia transmission and engine will depend on compliance with the operating rules: the manufacturer recommends changing the oil in gasoline engines - every 15,000 km, in an automatic transmission - every 30,000 km. It should also be noted that when replacing a timing belt with a Daewoo Nexia on any of the above engine types, the rollers should also be changed (this will save, at least, from re-paying for the same work after a while, if you have time, otherwise however, a jammed roller will inevitably lead to a rapid breakage of the timing belt and the meeting of valves with pistons).

This article contains a collection of elements of car equipment, and all electrical circuits for Daewoo Nexia are here.

1. Diagram of the engine Daewoo Nexia G15MF (SOHC):

2. Details and assemblies of the A15MF (DOHC) engine:

3. Diagram of the Daewoo Nexia F16MF (DOHC) engine:

4. Diagram of the engine crankcase ventilation system, as well as parts of the suspension support of the power unit. Possible motor malfunctions, their causes and remedies:

6. Details of the exhaust system:

7. Diagram of the structure of fuel supply and capture of its vapors:

eight.Daewoo Nexia gearbox components:

9. Scheme of the main gear and differential:

11. Steering gear without power steering, as well as the reasons for the breakdown of the steering and how to troubleshoot:

12. Diagram of the power steering gear:

13. Possible causes of a malfunction of the power steering and troubleshooting methods, as well as parts of the steering column of a Daewoo Nexia car:

14. Diagrams of Daewoo Nexia equipment systems: service brake system and front wheel brake mechanism:

15. Diagram of the master brake cylinder with a vacuum booster:

16. Brake mechanism of the rear wheel Daewoo Nexia:

17. Parking brake actuator:

18. Details of the rear wheel brake:

19. Layout of electrical wiring connectors and contacts with "ground" on a Daewoo Nexia car (purpose of electrical connectors), as well as circuits protected by fuses:

20. Mounting blocks Daewoo Nexia N100 and N150 are identical in design and electrical circuit switching, the only difference is in the way of access to them. Location of fuses and relays on the front side and bottom of the mounting block:

21. Types and purpose of fuse relays in the mounting block:

22. Block of heating, ventilation and air conditioning system Daewoo Nexia:

23. Diagram of air movement in the heating and air conditioning unit:

24. Schematic diagram of the movement of refrigerant in the air conditioning system of a Daewoo Nexia car:

Daewoo Nexia is a car that meets modern requirements for safety, quality, efficiency, dynamism, design and manufacturability. To maintain the high technical characteristics of the Daewoo Nexia car, like any other car, preventive maintenance and repairs are required during the operation.

There are complex malfunctions and failures that are recommended to be eliminated in the conditions of a service station, but there are those that are completely removable directly by the car owner. We will try to determine the feasibility of repairing a Daewoo Nexia car directly by the owner, without the help of car service specialists and the possibility of carrying it out in full compliance with the technological maps and regulatory documents of the manufacturer.

Failures of the Daewoo Nexia engine, up to the inability to start, are often the result of a malfunction in the fuel system. The probable cause of such violations may be a malfunction of the fuel pump.

The design of the fuel pump allows you to restore its functionality. For this, it is recommended to perform technological operations:

• dismantling the fuel pump from the car;
• dismantling the hose;
• dismantling the fuel pump from the bracket.

Let's move on to the next operation:

There is a structural recess in the center of the cover, which serves as a support for the motor shaft.

We perform the following operations:

• production of a metal plate with a thickness of about 2 mm (by the size of the recess);
• placing the plate in the recess on the lid.

If, as a result of the operations carried out, it was not possible to achieve the desired result, then it is possible to use an appropriate structural element from GAZ or VAZ cars.

Increased brake pedal travel, as well as its "softness" indicates a lack of tightness in the brake system. In this case, the brake master cylinder must be replaced or repaired.

• special wrenches designed for unscrewing the brake cylinder pipe fittings;
• a pear or syringe for pumping out the brake fluid from the reservoir;
• pliers;
• screwdriver.

• selection of brake fluid from the reservoir (using a pear or syringe);
• release of brake pipe fittings from the cylinder and rear wheel pressure regulators (key 22 is used);
• unscrewing the nuts securing the cylinder to the brake booster;
• disconnecting the brake pipes from the cylinder.

It is not very difficult to carry out self-assembly - a new master brake cylinder.

• removing the sealing ring from the brake cylinder;
• removing the retaining ring (using a screwdriver);
• removing, lubricating the cuff with brake fluid and replacing the installed brake cylinder component parts with new parts;
• fixation with a retaining ring;
• disconnecting the rear wheel adjusters from the brake cylinder;
• disassembly, rinsing, cleaning of regulators from contamination;
• assembly and installation of pressure regulators on the master cylinder.

When disassembling and replacing component parts, the main thing to remember is the order of their assembly, otherwise there will be problems with their installation in their original place.

Do-it-yourself Daewoo Nexia repair requires the mandatory observance of some rules:

Before carrying out maintenance or repairs, disconnect the battery earth cable, taking all appropriate precautions. This will prevent the occurrence of a short circuit and, as a result, the occurrence of dangerous situations that pose a threat to the health and life of the car owner, leading to damage not only to the battery, but also to the car.

When dismantling the air cleaner, after completing the process, it is recommended to close the intake pipes in order to exclude the possibility of ingress of objects that cause engine failure.

• dismantling the steering column;
• unscrewing the bolts fixing the switch (using a hammer and chisel);
• installation of a new ignition lock (in reverse order). In this case, the fastening bolts must be replaced with new ones.

If the economic component of Daewoo Nexia repair is important to you and you have the necessary knowledge of the technology for carrying out the relevant types of work, then doing the repair yourself will not be a big deal for you. It is enough to be self-confident, have a special set of tools and free time. We hope that our article has become informative and useful for you.

Daewoo Nexia is a modern reliable car, which, nevertheless, may also need to be repaired. There are breakdowns that are best eliminated in a car service, but some malfunctions are quite amenable to self-correction. Let's try to figure out in which cases it may be necessary to repair "Daewoo Nexia" with our own hands and how to correctly implement it.

If the Daewoo Nexia engine starts to work unstably or the car simply refuses to start, then this may be due to a breakdown of the fuel pump, which can be easily corrected on its own.