In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the DRL Kia Seed jd from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Uv moderators, transfer if that topic, maybe in the FAQ or somewhere else.
So, I took two DRL controllers from the repair, more precisely - one is dead, the other is likely to die soon, but so far it is working. In reality, the same 555 series microcircuit (timer) is dying. Installed at the factory by another manufacturer. Changes are elementary if you have primary skills in soldering SMD components. As the person who picked them told me, the problem is more likely either in the microcircuit manufacturer (kmr most likely takes by tender, the cheapest), or in overheating - according to symptoms - there is an entrance, an exit, there are no cycles. Only I do not understand why this happened in winter and not in summer ..
One of these days I will make the collective farm headlights. Photos if I will post anything tomorrow by the differences and markings - the manufacturer of the regular mikruh. The price of the issue is 13 rubles for the scheme + gasoline to get to the store. By the operating time - open the headlight -30 minutes, throw off the controller and unsolder-solder the microcircuit - 10 minutes, close the headlight (by the way, if you remove it from heating, I think it will be much faster) - the same 30 minutes. Then decide for yourself whether this hemorrhoid is worth this time.To summarize, there are several options for solving unreleased DRLs -
1.warranty, the issue price is 0 rubles
2.buying a new headlight, issue price from 30 thousand rubles
3.buying a used headlight, the issue price is from 3000 to 15 thousand rubles
4. Self-repair - 200 + - rubles
5. Completely non-independent repair - I do not know, I think in the region of 3 thousand (remove partially-completely the bumper, remove the headlight, paste-repair-glue it, put the headlight, put the bumper)
6. Partially non-independent repair - you remove the controller, I send you to the person who will solder the microcircuit for you, I can't say the price tag (I think about 300..500 rubles)
If you are from Novosibirsk, and you have a desire for points 5 and 6 - please contact. I think the guarantee will be at least 6 months.
I draw your attention to the fact that I am not doing this, I just know people who can do it based on your ability to destroy everything. Once again, pictures for comparison of orig and repair will be tomorrow.
Video (click to play). |
Hello. Not so long ago I became the proud owner.
The instructions say that DRLs should go out when the handbrake is raised - they do not go out.
I talked to the owners of such cars, the same story.
There is someone from the officials who have access to those. docks?
I wonder what functions are available for programming from a dealer scanner, but not available through the menu.
In general, are there any settings for the same BCM? If so, which ones?
I am also interested in a set of wiring diagrams for this car (not free of charge).
I can offer other cars for exchange (or just buy for reasonable funds).
in my (Lithuanian) manual, not a word about the handbrake, that is, it will NOT go out.
dealership, you can disable the reset of the service interval by the driver, that is, only the dealer can reset
2014 Kia Ceed JD Headlight Repair
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There is a 2013 KIA Ceed JD, Comfort grade with lamp DRLs.
Elementary task – put the switch on the DRL. When the engine is running, the DRLs light up automatically; it is impossible to completely turn off the outdoor lighting.
But the problem is that on this car there is 1 wire for DRL, but two. One on the left, the other on the right headlight.
So, we have I / P-B connector, 7 and 9 pins. Which are responsible for the right and left DRL lamp.
The task is to interrupt these wires through the button.Initially I was trying to find a single toggle switch that had 2 inputs and 2 outputs so the wires wouldn't cross. I did not find anything like that.
Then I suggested that you can just break the wires, twist them in pairs and connect them to the switch, but on the SIDU forum they scared me that this should not be done.
I thought I could make some kind of circuit with a relay. But since he himself is a layman in an electrician - looking for advice on the scheme.
Hello. Not so long ago I became the proud owner.
The instructions say that DRLs should go out when the handbrake is raised - they do not go out.
I talked to the owners of such cars, the same story.
There is someone from the officials who have access to those. docks?
I wonder what functions are available for programming from a dealer scanner, but not available through the menu.
In general, are there any settings for the same BCM? If so, which ones?
I am also interested in a set of wiring diagrams for this car (not free of charge).
I can offer other cars for exchange (or just buy for reasonable funds).
in my (Lithuanian) manual, not a word about the handbrake, that is, it will NOT go out.
dealership, you can disable the reset of the service interval by the driver, that is, only the dealer can reset
Finally donor headlights came to me. Recorded the process of opening the headlight. The rest is all on self-tapping screws. I do not see.
I have a xenon headlamp with a headlight corrector not repaired in the center, replacing both 140 thousand rubles. I decided to install it.
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Repair of Chinese headlights with DRL for KIA RIO 3. Part I Disassembly
Since our village is small, we have to do a lot of work that is not associated with a radical improvement of optics. In particular, headlight repair, so I decided to illustrate one of their simple jobs - restoring the performance of KIA Ceed LED eyelashes.
Everything is extremely simple, but partly the work is similar to the work of a surgeon - there is no room for error 🙂
I am not a borax to describe the reasons that prompted the owner warranty auto contact me, but it happened. I read the Internet and order ready-made boards from the manufacturer, and receive them:
Video uploaded by Albert Urazbayev
Search Albert Urazbaev 8 months ago
SCHEME BOUGHT WITH ALIEXPRESS
here is the link
My review about my car Kia ceed jd 1.6AT. I bought it new in 2013, after which exactly 4 years have passed and 180000 km behind. What was breaking.
In this video, I tried to tell you the solution to the problem with the inoperative seat heating on the Ford Focus 1, the problem manifests itself in absolutely everyone, this is a broken wire in the seat. # fordfocus1 # ford # focus # 1
I went to repair Kia Sid. Slightly corrected before, replaced the front frame (TV) and painting of course.
Rodyti leistuvės valdiklius
- Paskelbta 13 Grd 2017
- I have a xenon headlight with a headlight corrector not repaired in the center, replacing both 140 thousand rubles
I decided to become - 2014 Kia Ceed
Please share the solution to the issue)
See further my video on headlight repair
How did you fix it? Throw off the video or describe pliz. I have a seed 2013, the same story.
Well, tell me how to repair))
here you can buy a replacement board.
How was the DRL repaired? I have the same problem. If you replaced the circuit, where did you get the circuit? Remove a more complete video.
on installation, as you like, I put it under the hood, connected to the lamps in the harness that goes from the fuse box, took the speed signal and ignition from the harness that connects to the engine control unit.
Reconnected - took control not from the speed signal (for the speed signal you need an amplifier, they sell 150r), but took the signal from the speed switch (I have automatic transmission), i.e.from D, now when the drive is on, the lamps light up at full heat, this is the control unit connector, pin 66, yellow wire
green wire - lamps high beam
light green with red - dimensions
weight - on the body on the ground wire
power supply +12 - on the fuse box under the nut + from the battery
harness on the brain with a long plug
+ I took a white wire from the 4 contacts of the block, but probably I will reconnect it because on this wire + it disappears 10 seconds after the ignition is turned off
connect dimensions and light
Hello my dear friends. sit down comfortably. Today I will tell you about a very useful thing called RHO-20M, which translated into Russian means the Relay of Running Lights. So that's it. This begs the question why this particular device interested me? I answer: Because
1) I do not want to make any changes to the appearance of the car
2) From a practical point of view, this is the most correct option +
3) From a financial point of view, this is the most economical option.
According to the rules of Dor. Movement, as you all know, you need to move by car either with the neighbor turned on, or with fog lights, or with running lights (who have them installed). On mine (however, and on your SIDs) this was not installed. Well, someone has an auto turn-on mode - This does not count, because I do not have one, but whoever has it, then in the daytime it will still have to be turned on manually.
So that's it. After crawling through a bunch of forums with smart advice, I came to the conclusion that:
You can buy and install LED bulbs. But there are a lot of nuances, such as: There is nowhere to install. My hand will not rise to cut the bumper. it will not work neatly, or rather, it will not work according to the factory, but I don’t want to work on collective farms (after all, we do not drive Zhiguli).
For LED running lights (hereinafter referred to as DRL) for your information there is a GOST for luminous flux power. Such a lamp should produce from 400 to 800 kD. The cost of such DRLs varies from 3500 to 6000 thousand rubles. If 1-2 diodes burn out, it will look like a fig, but replace diode you can’t, you just buy the kit again. I am not very friendly with a soldering iron, so I cannot replace the diode because it is too jewelry business, and I don’t need it.
So why are you asking RFO-20M after rewinding my chatter.
but because the headlights are now on like the running lights high beam only 30%, PXO costs only 800 rubles. without shipping (it cost me 1205 rubles from Tambov to St. Petersburg with all duties and taxes). and what is 1200 rubles? Yes, many of you just walking through the car market, not intending to buy anything, at the exit from the market find all kinds of junk in your purchases, like it is not really necessary, but let it be, for an amount much more than 1000 rubles.
Replace the high beam lamp if it burns out, it costs 100 rubles. Because you almost never use the distant one, and install expensive lamps it makes no sense. But now you can put expensive lamps with good light output in the near one and turn them on only when it gets dark. Oh yes, who has a light sensor. Now such bourgeoisie is generally a blooper. The middle one turns on itself, the DRL turns on itself, well, everything turns off by itself. Full automation. It remains only to monitor the integrity of the bulbs.
RHO-20M is installed in a box with fuses under the hood. NO wires are cut, if everything needs to be restored to the factory form, it is done in 30 seconds.
To do this, you need to buy 3 relays. The price of the reels is 100 rubles. You can not buy, but slip the wiring under the legs, but it is fraught with the fact that by pushing the relay back and pressing on the wire that you slipped in, you can squeeze the “mother” (where the relay's leg is stuck) out of the box itself and then there will be a Huge Hemorrhoid.
Let's not talk about sad things. Buy 3 relays and solder the wires to the legs, just plug in and voila. everything works at its best. Everything is described in more detail on
I did just that at home. Happy as an elephant. my wife put the same on Matiz.
Thank you for your attention and understanding
Issue price: 1,500 rubles
18 posts
- Gender: Male
- City: Vologda forests
- Auto: KIA CEE'D (JD)
- Trim: Classic 1.4 MT
- Color: (D5U) Sand Track
And it's just stupid and uncivilized to parallelize the near and DRL lamps - I'm afraid the dipped beam relay won't stand it. And the fuses will have to be changed to more powerful ones - in general, this is uncivilized and even dangerous.
To order these headlights, write to me at:
The online store is not ready yet. Sending to the regions.
Delivery in St. Petersburg is free.
Optics 10,40,60,80 degrees are available for order.
The headlamp has a degree of protection IP-68 Shockproof and waterproof housing.
Color temperature 4500K
One headlamp contains 4 LEDs with a power of 10 watts each.
The service life of the headlamp is 50,000 hours or 5 years of continuous operation.
1. The cost of one headlamp is 7300r.
2. The glow temperature is 4500K. This provides better visibility in wet weather.
3. Service life 50,000 hours.
4. The headlamp is designed for 12V. For trucks, you can turn it on sequentially.
5. The headlamp is protected from water and dust.
6. Not designed for scuba diving.
8. Waterproof connector
10. The headlamp electronics are designed to save energy when the engine is not running.
Video review - Styling of the interior lighting of the VAZ 2110 car, replacing all incandescent bulbs with diode ones on the dashboard and on the entire torpedo.
Description: Good afternoon, reader, do-it-yourself car repair is a collection of all kinds of instructions (articles, videos, photo reports, questions / answers) that clearly show how to make repairs with your own hands. For ease of use of the site my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/950, all materials are divided by car brands and models, as well as categories and types of materials. When buying a car, motorists are increasingly interested in do-it-yourself car repairs. And so everything in order, the length of the body of your car - 3395, width - 1823, height - 1176 mm. The wheelbase is 2303 mm. The ground clearance is 136 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. the four-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the motor. Each engine has eight valves. The diameter of one cylinder is 61 mm, the piston stroke is 33 mm. The engine crankshaft accelerates to 7000 rpm. The maximum torque is maintained up to 8000 rpm.
Original video title:
Release date: 30.05.2016
Posted by admin: at the request of Ioannikia
Opinion of a car owner named Foka: In relation to other cars, including foreign cars, cars are good, no worse than most
Laughter in the subject: I decided to change something in this life. I wanted adrenaline and new sensations. I bought a spicy rollton instead of the usual one.
Necessary tools for work: 1. Hammer;
2. Open-end wrench for 28; 3. Socket wrench 13;
4. circle on the grinder; 5. Flat screwdriver; 6. radiator;
The electrical diagram for connecting the Eclipse_73 device is shown in Fig. twenty.
The sequence of installation of the daytime running gear control device in the pictures is as follows:
1. Disconnect the negative bus from the battery.
2. Remove the cover of the mounting block located in the engine compartment of the KIA CEED car by pressing the latch in the front of the block.
3. Unscrew the three nuts securing the + 12V busbars and remove the busbar ends from the studs.
4. Remove the two bolts securing the fuse and relay box.
5. Unscrew the three bolts securing the detachable connectors.
6. Remove the fuse and relay box from the base, having previously released it from the latches located around the perimeter of the unit.
7. In the opened base of the unit there are three detachable connectors
8. All the EKLIPS_73 daytime running lights control devices required for connection are located in one connector. To access the connection circuits, remove the protective casing from the connector, releasing it from the latches located around the perimeter.
9. When determining the necessary circuits for connecting the device of daytime running lights, it is advisable to be guided by the electrical connection diagram with the obligatory confirmation of each circuit by its “continuity” from the relay or fuse of the relay and fuse box to the contact of the plug connector.It is recommended to perform all connections by soldering the wires of the EKLIPS_73 device to the circuits of the detachable connector.
10. Attach the wires connected to the connector to the connector harness. Attach the device itself to the hood lock cable
11. Install the fuse and relay box on the base. Fasten the block with three bolts of the detachable connectors. Put the tips of the +12 V busbars on the studs. Put the ring contact of the wire “+ Battery” on one of the pins.
12. Secure the tips of the +12 V busbars with three fastening nuts. Fasten the ring lug of the "Ground" wire of the EKLIPS_73 daytime running lights control device with a bolt connection on the standard lug of the battery power cable.
13. Tighten the two bolts securing the fuse and relay box. Connect the standard power cable "Ground" to the battery.
14. If your kit is equipped with an external LED indicator, then pull it from under the bonnet into the car. Mount the LED indicator in any convenient place in the car interior.
I bought myself a block of daytime running lights on Kia, which need to be connected to standard optics. In fact, I was going to make this revision for a long time, but I could not allocate time in any way. You can install the unit in any place convenient for you, I personally did it in the engine compartment. I connected the wires to the light bulbs in a braid of wires coming from the fuse box. As for the ignition signal and speed, I took them from the scythe going to the ECU.
I made a reconnection. In my case, the control does not come from the speed signal, because then I would need an additional amplifier. Since I have a car with an automatic gearbox, the signal was borrowed from the gear selector (from D). Now, when switching the “Drive” mode, my lamps in half-channel light up.
We take the signal from the control unit, here we find the 66th contact, there we highlight the yellow wire. The green wire is responsible for the high-beam lamps, the green-red wire is responsible for the dimensions, we find the mass on the body of the car, and we connect the 12 volt power supply to the fuse box under the nut from the battery.
We connect the dimensions, attach the mass, assemble the entire structure, fix it and try to start it. Daytime running lights are made with ordinary incandescent bulbs. I had a desire to put LEDs here, but at the time of installation I didn't have them, so I worked with what I already have.
Installed DRL, tried to turn it on - everything works. They can even be compared to low beam headlights, because the bulbs shine much brighter than the usual dimensions.
A friend has exactly the same car, but he just installed an LED strip for DRL. Yes, it shines better and you can see it better during the day, but it does not look very nice, everything is done too collective-farm. It was necessary at least to come up with a case for this. Although someone like it, if he likes this option, then this is his business, personally I did the tuning as I saw fit.
Fog lights, which come on and off, also need repairs. Probably the reason is poor contact.
The secret to installing DRL. Connect DRL. Daytime Running Lights.
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- Tsaponlak
- Front headlight (if necessary) (92101-A2000 headlight left, 92102-A2000 headlight right)
- Printed circuit board - backing board (DIY)
- A set of elements for the board (for self-production)
Many are faced with the problem of Kia Sid DRL not working. Cilia on Kia Sid may not work correctly and not in all modes. The whole problem is in the controllers (boards) that are responsible for the DRL inside the headlights. In native motherboards, the temperature regime has no margin relative to the operating temperatures in the headlight. Due to the aluminum substrate of the board and overheating, the contact bursts and / or soldering disappears. In this article, you will learn how to repair a Kia Sid DRL by repairing an existing DOH lamp control board or making your own. An alternative solution to this problem can only be a complete replacement of the headlight.
1. Disconnect the minus terminal from the storage battery.
3. Remove the bulbs from the headlight.
4. Use a soldering iron (or drill) to make two holes in the headlamp above the board screws.
3. Unscrew the board holder (board holder with two screws).
4. Using a flat screwdriver, press the tab of the DRL wiring block and unfasten the block from the board.
5. Remove the board through the dipped beam lamp hole.
Examine the board through a magnifying glass for cracks in the solder. Before soldering the board, you need to warm it up well (4 mm thick aluminum board). Take a hair dryer for soldering microcircuits, warm up and immediately solder.
6. The circled area has a microcrack in the solder. Warm up and solder.
7. On the other board, the “jumper tooth” fell off in the form of zero resistance (the solder cracked and it fell off). The procedure is similar to clause 6.
If the board is in a very bad condition, and soldering the same board does not seem like a reliable long-term solution, then you can act more radically and replace the board completely by making it yourself. An example of a homemade board and the necessary circuits are given at the bottom of the article.
8. Cover the repaired boards with zaponlac for greater protection of circuits and elements.
9. Install and screw the board in the reverse order of removal.
Straighten the tail of the board power supply and push the board back using it.
10. Solder the holes on the headlamp housing.
Welded holes on the headlight housing.
11. Install the headlights in the reverse order of removal.
Manufacturing Kia LED DRL board
The board is made without connectors. They will need to be soldered from the original boards and transferred to the new boards.
To do this, it is recommended to use a soldering hair dryer at 320-350 degrees, preheating the board from below. Then quickly transfer the hair dryer to the upper side of the board to the connector and remove it with tweezers. So the plastic does not deteriorate.
You cannot hold the board with your hands. Use tweezers, Third Hand, or something similar.
If you only have a soldering iron, as an option to warm up the board, you can try using a preheated iron. Put the board on it and carefully remove it with the same tweezers.
In addition to soldering the board itself, its firmware is also required, the archive with which is located here.
Recommended board version: ATTiny13.
Recommended firmware: tiny13_without_soft-start_with_pause.hex
Differences between the original board driver and the manufactured one:
- A slight pause between switching modes of operation (DRL bright, DRL normal) - about 0.1 seconds.
- There is no “eyelash” flicker.
Front view of a self-made DRL board
Rear view of a self-made DRL board
Scheme of a printed circuit board for making a DRL board
Diagram of the elements of the DRL board
Connector on board MOLEX 502352-0400
- Photo of the instrument
- Photos of parts and consumables
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Video (click to play). |