Do-it-yourself DRL Kia Sid repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Kia LED DRL from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Uv moderators, transfer if that topic, maybe in the FAQ or somewhere else.

So, I took two DRL controllers from the repair, more precisely - one is dead, the other is likely to die soon, but so far it is working. In reality, the same 555 series microcircuit (timer) is dying. Installed at the factory by another manufacturer. Changes are elementary if you have primary skills in soldering SMD components. As the person who picked them told me, the problem is more likely either in the microcircuit manufacturer (kmr most likely takes by tender, the cheapest), or in overheating - according to symptoms - there is an entrance, an exit, there are no cycles. Only I do not understand why this happened in winter and not in summer ..

One of these days I will make the collective farm headlights. Photos if I will post anything tomorrow by the differences and markings - the manufacturer of the regular mikruh. The price of the issue is 13 rubles for the scheme + gasoline to get to the store. By the operating time - open the headlight -30 minutes, throw off the controller and unsolder-solder the microcircuit - 10 minutes, close the headlight (by the way, if you remove it from heating, I think it will be much faster) - the same 30 minutes. Then decide for yourself whether this hemorrhoid is worth this time.

To summarize, there are several options for solving unreleased DRLs -
1.warranty, the issue price is 0 rubles
2.buying a new headlight, issue price from 30 thousand rubles
3.buying a used headlight, the issue price is from 3000 to 15 thousand rubles
4. Self-repair - 200 + - rubles
5. Completely non-independent repair - I do not know, I think in the region of 3 thousand (remove partially-completely the bumper, remove the headlight, paste-repair-glue it, put the headlight, put the bumper)
6. Partially non-independent repair - you remove the controller, I send you to the person who will solder the microcircuit for you, I can't say the price tag (I think about 300..500 rubles)

If you are from Novosibirsk, and you have a desire for points 5 and 6 - please contact. I think the guarantee will be at least 6 months.
I draw your attention to the fact that I am not doing this, I just know people who can do it based on your ability to destroy everything. Once again, pictures for comparison of orig and repair will be tomorrow.

Video (click to play).

Yes. If you open the small cover at the bottom of the headlight, you can see it.

the lamp is to blame, take a ride a little soon it will completely die

the thread broke. when shaken, it can burn, it can fade. It happens. Change the lamp.

rode for several days - it burns, then not not. I got it out and on the hike she already died the other day - the thread was gone)

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MAY 09 Jan 2016

Guys, I greet you, please tell me if any of you have encountered the following problem, I will describe it briefly. I am the owner of a Kia seed jd 2012. equipment prestige. In 2014, the daytime running lights (DRL) on the left headlight stopped burning, I turned to the dealer, they replaced the headlight under warranty, a month later, the “eyelash” on the right headlight stopped burning. - replaced. just before the new year, one eyelash began to flicker, and the other stopped burning. What is it? Low-quality DRL or something all the same with wiring. Thanks in advance for your advice.

I have united the topic, use the search.

THE ENTIRE PROBLEM IS IN THE CONTROLLERS THAT ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR DRL INSIDE THE HEADLIGHTS. It happens that in some places on the boards, contacts are cracked. maybe this is due to changes in temperature and humidity inside the headlight itself. Some guys disassembled the headlight and treated everything themselves by soldering the contacts on the board.

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MAY 11 Jan 2016

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Nikolaj666 12 Jan 2016

Rather, to an electronics engineer who will determine the burnt part / parts. And few people will undertake this. There are a lot of hemorrhages. Easier to buy a controller on parsing

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FTT 28 Mar 2016

Greetings, advise the LEDs for the DRL, so that they work without rearranging the wires in the cartridge.

Now they are Chinese, so a little less than a year has passed, the diodes are blinking, then some have stopped working altogether.

How many have already encountered a kitay, so they do not work for a long time, even in the backlight of the room, 1-2 diodes start flashing.

Greetings, advise the LEDs for the DRL, so that they work without rearranging the wires in the cartridge.

Now they are Chinese, so a little less than a year has passed, the diodes are blinking, then some have stopped working altogether.

How many have already encountered a kitay, so they do not work for a long time, even in the backlight of the room, 1-2 diodes start flashing.

I bought myself these for 1250 rubles in the district. I don't remember the company. They have been working for 2 years. But the wires still had to be rearranged in the chip.

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FTT 30 Mar 2016

Greetings, advise the LEDs for the DRL, so that they work without rearranging the wires in the cartridge.

Now they are Chinese, so a little less than a year has passed, the diodes are blinking, then some have stopped working altogether.

How many have already encountered a kitay, so they do not work for a long time, even in the backlight of the room, 1-2 diodes start flashing.

I bought myself these for 1250 rubles in the district. I don't remember the company. They have been working for 2 years. But the wires still had to be rearranged in the chip.

I have the same kind of Chinese, they stand and blink, from some side the diode is no longer lit (

I bought myself these for 1250 rubles in the district. I don't remember the company. They have been working for 2 years. But the wires still had to be rearranged in the chip.

I have the same kind of Chinese, they stand and blink, from some side the diode is no longer lit (

I think this is the word - "Chinese".

When I bought, I was “like” not China, in a beautiful and sealed package. I took it from the Grand Auto store on the Novoryazan highway.

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RudyLion 31 Mar 2016

Greetings, advise the LEDs for the DRL, so that they work without rearranging the wires in the cartridge.

Now they are Chinese, so a little less than a year has passed, the diodes are blinking, then some have stopped working altogether.

How many have already encountered a kitay, so they do not work for a long time, even in the backlight of the room, 1-2 diodes start flashing.

I have had Starled 8G for two years already, they did not blink either in winter or summer, all the diodes are glowing. I bought another 800 rubles apiece, I did not rearrange the wires, I cut one pipka on the base. There are also good bulbs from NeTuning, they cost from 1000 rubles apiece, according to reviews they are of very high quality, they even give a guarantee for six months.

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FTT 31 Mar 2016

Greetings, advise the LEDs for the DRL, so that they work without rearranging the wires in the cartridge.

Now they are Chinese, so a little less than a year has passed, the diodes are blinking, then some have stopped working altogether.

How many have already encountered a kitay, so they do not work for a long time, even in the backlight of the room, 1-2 diodes start flashing.

So far, I also stopped at buying NeTuning lamps, there is a 1g guarantee written on the lamps

Greetings, advise the LEDs for the DRL, so that they work without rearranging the wires in the cartridge.

Now they are Chinese, so a little less than a year has passed, the diodes are blinking, then some have stopped working altogether.

How many have already encountered a kitay, so they do not work for a long time, even in the backlight of the room, 1-2 diodes start flashing.

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The design of the lamp uses a diode bridge, which not only additionally protects the LEDs, but also ensures the non-polarity of the lamp. This lamp does not care where there is a “plus” in the socket, and where is a “minus”, which is quite important, because in the sockets of some cars there is a non-standard polarity, at which no ordinary LED lamp will work.

I have them for 7 months / 8000 km, no problem. The only drawback is not the brightest.

compared to standard dimensions:

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Sonic Apr 21, 2016

Good day to all!

I have a restyled LUX kit. Running lights separate from PTF and head light. There are two-pin lamps in the navigation lights.Why are there two-contact lamps if one contact is involved.

P.S. The cornering light is installed in the headlight.

there have been similar questions many times. came to the conclusion that the plant used correctly and massively such lamps somewhere else, and so as not to bother with other articles / orders / supplies, etc. put them in the seeds.

There is a 2013 KIA Ceed JD, Comfort grade with lamp DRLs.
Elementary task – put the switch on the DRL. When the engine is running, the DRLs light up automatically; it is impossible to completely turn off the outdoor lighting.

But the problem is that on this car there is 1 wire for DRL, but two. One on the left, the other on the right headlight.

So, we have I / P-B connector, 7 and 9 pins. Which are responsible for the right and left DRL lamp.
The task is to interrupt these wires through the button. Initially I was trying to find a single toggle button that had 2 inputs and 2 outputs so the wires wouldn't cross. I did not find anything like that.
Then I suggested that you can just break the wires, twist them in pairs and connect them to the switch, but on the SIDU forum they scared me that this should not be done.
I thought I could make some kind of circuit with a relay. But since he himself is a layman in an electrician - looking for advice on the scheme.

2014 Kia Ceed JD Headlight Repair

Faulty eyelash (DRL) in the headlight Kia Cee'd JD

Kia Ceed manufacture of DRL controller from ALFA CAR

The secret to installing DRL. Connect DRL. Daytime Running Lights.

LED DRL Kia Ceed JD 2

Looking ahead, the controller is slightly warm during operation.

The manufacturer's website has instructions for installation on the Kia ceed restyling. But it seemed to me too complicated, it was necessary to disassemble the floor of the torpedo.
I decided to look for an easier way. Found the wiring diagrams of the car Kia Ceed, 1.6, automatic, restayl. After studying, it turned out that all connections can be made in the engine compartment fuse box, except for the speed sensor. It can be taken from the ODB2 diagnostic connector.
To install you will need:
1. "Positive" controller with a block and wires.
2. Wire of small cross-section (0.3-0.5 sq. Mm) 2 meters. For connection to a speed sensor.
3. Corrugation is black, 5 mm in diameter.
4. Phillips screwdriver ph2.
5. Wrench for 10. Be sure to need a multifaceted, cap.
6. Soldering iron, solder with rosin.
7. Shiloh.
8. Sharp knife.
9. Black PVC insulating tape.
10. Nylon footage.
11. Round terminal M6 for wire 0.5 sq. Mm. Like this:

We insulate with electrical tape. We wind the tourniquet with electrical tape. We assemble and insert the panel in the reverse order. The work in the salon is over. We pass into the engine compartment.
We remove the battery. We disassemble the fuse box according to the instructions already available on the site.
Remove the fuse box cover. We remove the small block, it is held by three latches:

We take out the white block from the block:

Now unscrew the 2 bolts. The bolt inside is not very convenient, it can be dropped.

Remove the block, turn it over, remove the bottom cover.

We will be soldered to the wires of the high beam relay and the fog lamp relay (if there are no fog lights, then it is necessary to determine where the relay should be according to the fuse box diagram).
We look at the H / LP relay from the front. HI RELAY is a long-range relay. Turn the block over, find the relay contact terminals:

Double green wire - output to the distant lamps, we clean one of them, solder the 5th wire from the controller block to it. According to the instructions, it is brown, but I had green.

We clean the blue wire of the relay - this is the power input to the lamps. We solder the 2nd wire from the controller block to it, the color is red. Having connected here, we have short circuit protection with a standard fuse H / LP HI FUSE 20A.

We clean the red with a red stripe wire of the high beam relay - this wire is powered in the ON position of the ignition key. We solder wire number 3 from the controller block to it. Yellow color. Short-circuit protection of the H / LP FUSE relay in the passenger compartment fuse box.

From the manufacturer: since the controller is installed in a leaky place, after adjustment, it is recommended to seal the holes for sound and programming with electrical tape to prevent water from entering the device. You can also fill the connector contacts with sealant to prevent oxidation.