DIY speaker repair indiscriminately

Has the speaker wheezed or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First, diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.

We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.

Now the second check. We put the speaker on the magnet and gently move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustle or creak, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.

If there is no grinding, and the winding is open - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper veins that break over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. T.F. a suitable cross-section or a braid tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the place of soldering with Moment glue.

If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, put the speaker on the magnet and with a swab dipped in acetone, soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it, prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. In the same way, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull the diffuser straight up without skewing.

I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and centering washer, so as not to disturb the centering of the speaker.

To rewind, you need to assemble a simple device, the device of which is clear from the figure. The hardest part is the spool holder. To make it, you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material - any metal.

We measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The mandrel for the spool should have a diameter of x + 0.5 mm at one end and x-0.5 mm at the other end.
On the large end, we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
We drill a 6.5 mm through hole for the stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.

Now you can start winding. We need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.

We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding by gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we glue it with a layer of paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers. We wind the wire coil to coil, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind not tightly, but tightly.

On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same actions in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amperes to dry. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help to easily remove it from the mandrel.

We check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap and start assembling.
We need to align the coil exactly to the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a film or X-ray film gasket in the gap.
2) Apply a small constant voltage of 2-3 Volts to the coil so that it is slightly pulled inward.

Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically downward without skewing and without radial displacement, press. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.

After the glue dries, remove the gasket and check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, we glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!

How good it is sometimes in the summer on the street in a cool gazebo to listen to your favorite tracks ... We got together like that in the summer with a friend sat listening to some drummer on his old S30 Radiotehnika. Surprisingly, the columns, in spite of their already advanced age, were always hollowed out very well. But after a couple of tracks at full power of this ULF, one of the speakers began to wheeze strangely ...

Thinking about what happened, I started looking for the reason in the ULF, disassembled the amplifier and measured all the voltages. Everything turned out to be normal. After that I decided to swap the channels and turned on the sound for the whole ... All the same column with the same effect. I had to repair, by the way, this is not the first speaker repair, I already had experience in repairing the Chinese speaker of the Sven speaker

After the autopsy, it turned out that the inside was GDN 25, which I had previously seen only in pictures on the Internet.

Here is a photo of the speaker of the GDN 25

Having twisted the speaker and examined it from all sides, no defects were found. But then I slightly pressed down the diffuser, I found that the diffuser was torn off from the centering washer, which can be clearly seen in the photo

Rub the diffuser against the core of the magnet and if this nuisance is not eliminated, then in addition to the grinding, which presses on the ear, the sleeve will fray and close the coil, which can lead to the destruction of the ULF. Fortunately, such repairs are carried out very quickly and will not take much effort.

To repair the speaker, we need:

Glue. I used regular rubber, liquid 88 glue

Acetone. I used regular nail polish thinner.

Syringe. For easy bonding of the diffuser

When everything is ready, you can start repairing

You need to remove the dust cap to get to the speaker coil. To do this, you need to slowly soak the edges of the cap with acetone to soak the glue. It is convenient to do this using the same syringe. The photo clearly shows what needs to be done! The photo shows how the solvent has not yet been absorbed.

After the cap is soaked, it literally takes about 5 minutes, we carefully try to pry it by the edges, only very carefully because the diffuser can be damaged. If the cap does not slip, add more acetone. It should slide easily.

Here is the cap removed

As you can see, the speaker is still damp. He needs to be allowed to dry, literally half an hour is enough for this, this is in the summer and just not in the sun. Drying should be done in the shade and in a well-ventilated place ..

When the speaker is dry, we need to center the speaker. To put it simply, it is necessary to align the sleeve so that it does not touch the core at full speed. This is done using regular film from a camera. If it is not there, you can use an old X-ray photograph, or at worst, as I did, take an ordinary thick thin notebook cover.

So you need to twist the film into a tube and insert it between the core and the sleeve

And press down tightly so that the diffuser is well pressed against the washer. Then we collect the syringe with glue, so the thinner the glue, the better

And now we carefully glue the washer with a good layer of glue. Be careful. Hold the needle, because under the pressure of the piston, it sometimes flies out and can get injured.

Stretch out with glue as seen in the photo

After you have stretched it once, look carefully, perhaps there is not enough glue and you need to walk again .. Remember that the quality of your work depends on the quality of the sound and the absence of alterations.
This completes the repair. Once again, check if the washer is pressed tightly and leave the speaker to dry for a day until the glue completely solidifies.

After a day, we carefully take out the centering film and try to connect the speaker for testing. Drive it well and test its strength. If everything is normal, glue the cap back in place and put the speaker in the speaker. This completes the repair

Here are a couple more photos of the speakers Radiotehnika S-30

The repair is over. A year has already passed since this speaker works and it still pleases with its sound.Therefore, do not be afraid to repair the speakers and do it with high quality so that you do not have to repeat the repair. And just good luck to you
From SW. Admin check

The current state of the market with loudspeaker prices makes speaker repair virtually unnecessary, but if there are difficulties in purchasing a new speaker instead of a damaged or damaged one, then it makes sense to try to restore the damaged loudspeaker with your own hands. I got a few coaxial speaker systems from various cars. Unfortunately, 2/3 of the speakers produce a distorted signal during playback, and the rest simply do not work. Below will be presented material only on the restoration of "littered" coaxial-type car speakers for use in the future in the design or installation in multi-way stationary speaker systems. Before starting work, we will carry out diagnostics speaker states.

1. Check for "trash". Coaxial speakers are not fully protected from foreign objects falling into the magnetic gap, this is especially dangerous for old cars covered with rust or cars that have undergone body repairs. Checking is simple - gently with your fingers moving diffuser inside the magnetic system, if at the same time extraneous sounds are clearly audible: rustles, crackles, rattling, then this means that metal debris may have got into the magnetic gap.

2. We take a tester and in ohmmeter mode we check the resistance of the coil. If there is resistance, then this is our case. If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to check the thick flexible copper conductors from the speaker terminals to the diffuser for an open circuit. If there is no break, then most likely there is a break in the speaker coil and this case of self-repair is not considered in this article. Instructions for self-repair are given below.

1. We unsolder the flexible leads of the coil from the contact lugs of the speaker connection and the contact lugs of the coaxial speaker.

2. Remove the coaxial speakers. Repair of the speaker system is not provided by the manufacturer and coaxial speakers are installed tightly... The column with reinforced tweeters was removed by drilling an aluminum rivet. We work carefully, the main thing is not to tear or damage anything.

3. On the forums for repairing speakers, there are ways to dismantle the diffuser and centering washer. I also went along this path. We carry out the work in the open air in the absence of open fire sources! After spending 100 ml of acetone, it was not possible to peel off the diffuser and the washer. The solvent evaporated quickly without softening the glue line. In order to save time and solvent, a cord made of cotton cloth was placed in place of gluing and moistened with acetone; if necessary, moistening as it evaporated continued until the glue softened. After softening with a thin screwdriver, he forged the edge of the centering washer and lifted it over the gluing point. With the corrugation of the diffuser made of thin rubber, you need to be more careful and delicate so as not to damage the rubber.

Pouring solvent onto the corrugation

4. Remove the diffuser. From trapped debris inside the magnetic system, damage-tearing of the speaker coil insulation is noticeable. It is useful under a magnifying glass to see the degree of damage for the presence of short-circuited turns (scratches to a depth of more than 40% of the coil wire diameter), if there is a suspicion of short-circuited turns, then it is better to reject the speaker. Using a damp cloth, I cleaned the diffuser, centering washer and coil inside and outside from dirt. Cleaning should be done carefully so as not to damage the coil.

There are scratches on the coil

5. The gap in the magnetic system is a sad sight. Strong magnet holds fine metal debris and dust firmly. I tried to clean it mechanically, but the small size of the gap and its curvature did not allow successfully removing debris.Decided to use a strong blast of air from an air compressor - it was not possible to clear the gap! Another remedy had to be used - a high-pressure jet of water from a car wash. The result is that I am all wet, but the gap is 100% cleaned, and at the same time the whole frame of the frame shone like new. I tried to do it carefully, since the pressure of the water jet is very high and I suppose with special zeal it is possible to destroy the gluing of the speaker magnet. To prevent rusting, you must immediately dry the frame and magnet. After drying, it is useful to check the cleanliness of the gap under a magnifying glass. And as experience has shown, it is good to seal the gap with tape to protect it from accidental metal debris.

1. After cleaning and drying the speaker components, we assemble the structure. It's important not to rush. The goal is to position the coil in the magnet system exactly in the center and to ensure there is clearance and no touching the coil. From a strip of A4 format office paper 10 cm wide and about 18 cm long, we roll up the cylinder and insert it into the diffuser coil. The cylinder must fit snugly against the spool and not have any protrusions or bulges inside.
2. Let's try to insert such a structure into the magnetic system. Do not hurry! Better to practice a few times. The cylinder should descend to the full depth of the magnetic gap and the coil should hardly move over the inserted cylinder. If the coil moves along the cylinder with great effort, then it is necessary to shorten the length of the paper strip, and if the coil moves freely, then it is necessary to increase the length of the paper strip.

Insert the cylinder into the gap

The coil runs tightly in the cylinder

The reel is centered

3. Holding the cylinder in the lower position, raise the diffuser and grease the area for gluing the centering washer with glue of the "Moment" type. We orient the washer according to the leads of the coil conductors and speaker terminals, as well as along the cutouts in the corrugation of the diffuser. We glue the centering washer.

4. We glue the corrugation of the diffuser.

5. After the glue has dried, we solder the coil conductors to the terminals.

6. Carefully remove the paper cylinder. Checking the diffuser travel. If everything is done correctly, then there should be no extraneous sounds.

7. To close the magnetic system from the ingress of debris, I sealed the coil hole on the side of the diffuser with black spunbond, and on the side of the magnet with tape.

Glue the centering washer

Sealing the diffuser hole

Seal the hole with tape

8. Finally, we check the result of the work by connecting the speaker to the sound source.

Using this technique, several speakers were independently restored for installation in stationary speaker systems and radios to replace old or torn speakers.

I tried to collect this way. It didn't always work out.
I did the assembly differently. After gluing the corrugation of the diffuser and the centering washer, until the glue has dried, I connected the dynamic head to a 6.3 volt transformer through a low-resistance variable wire resistor.
It was enough to slightly stir the diffuser.
In this case, the diffuser itself is centered. The noises disappeared immediately. In this position, he dried.

The disadvantage of this method: 50Hz is still hard to withstand for a long time.

The constant must be connected!

Professionals - a must, but amateurs can do so!

DIY woofer repair

Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount.
I think that the following will help anyone who has a great desire and perseverance to fix the speaker, rather than buying a new woofer.

Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222).

The organ clearly needed to be operated - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click). It was decided to trepan this organ.

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads).

Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle to the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).

Place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (perimeter).

And the place of gluing the diffuser itself to the basket of the diffuser-holder (again around the perimeter).

In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)

Attention! When working with a solvent, you should observe safety measures - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!

When wetting, use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of ​​the coil and the centering washer!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker.

We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.

We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!

Gently bend back the copper "antennae".

And we solder the lead wires.
We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut the supply wiring at the break point.

... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin). Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!

Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "tendrils" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years? ;),

We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment.Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.

We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to keep the length.

We glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, without skewing).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)

Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent. In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.

We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.

We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of the new factory analogous speaker.

That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.

After the operation, the speaker seemed to have a second wind, and he continued to stand and play in the subwoofer.

Previously, we have already addressed the topic of repairing car dynamic heads, or simply say, do-it-yourself speaker repair. Then we considered the method of restoring the head suspension using ordinary silicone. But we also face problems of a more serious nature. That is why, today we decided to focus on such a common problem as misalignment.

Naturally, today everyone knows what a dynamic head consists of. So, in it, an electrical type signal is converted into membrane movement and propagates through the air.

At the time when the same signal is concentrated on the coil, a magnetic field is formed, which interacts with the magnet. And due to the fact that this signal is temporary, the coil begins to vibrate, as if running away from the field. However, the coil has nowhere to run and it starts transmitting this signal to the diffuser, which in turn transmits it into the air, creating sound.Naturally, this process is conveyed in simple words, and it will sound completely different in technical terms. But the very essence is important.

A core made of iron is used here to implement the directionality of the field. In turn, this core is attached to a permanent magnet. It is a disc-type circular iron platform with a hub in the center that consists of a voice coil. In order for this coil to move easily in the middle of the magnet and the core, there is a special gap. And due to some unfavorable factors, the glue, due to which the disk is connected to the magnet, is weakened and the core crushes the coil, which leads to the immobility of the diffuser. The speakers may work, but you will not be able to hear any bass.

How to get out of this difficult situation? And is it possible to make the speakers return to their normal state? This is what will be discussed later in the article. So, in the situation that I encountered, there was a breakdown of the speaker suspension, and because of this, I immediately started with the centering washer. It so happens that in the speakers, the same centering washer is attached to very weak glue.

Therefore, in order to separate the washer, you just need to moisten the junction with the chassis with simple acetone and wait a couple of seconds. And in some cases, acetone alone is not enough. Most often this applies to high-quality speakers, where strong and high-quality glue is used to attach the washer and chassis. Here you need to resort to the most real vandalism. Namely, you need to cut off the washer and wires going from the voice coil towards the speakers with a clerical knife.

Next, you need to disconnect the diffuser.

At the end of these manipulations, it becomes clear that the core sticks to the magnet and needs to be put in its place, namely in the center. However, it should be noted that this is not easy at all, because here you need to work with iron and a permanent magnet.

They interact extremely reliably with each other, and it will be difficult for you to place the core in the center. It is important to understand, however, that the voice coil is fully attached to the cone and crushed. Therefore, you need to tighten the diffuser itself. After releasing the coil, you need to take a good look at it.

If the varnish covering its wire is damaged or the coil itself is dented, additional coil reconstruction is also required.

To repair the coil, the first step is to look for metal sheets, the thickness of which is half a centimeter.

These sheets need to be fastened between the core and the magnet. In general, we need to fill all the space that the coil occupies.

In this case, each plate must be inserted evenly so that the distance is equal on each side.

After all this, you need to glue the magnet to the washer that holds the core itself. It is best to use a good moment type glue for this.

Also for these purposes, you can take epoxy, but here it is already necessary for greater reliability to mix it with sawdust or pieces of fabric.

Then, after the glue has hardened, you can remove all the plates and put the entire speaker back.

The hanger and centering washer sit on the same adhesive. At the same time, the suspension can also be additionally repaired.

In this way, various types of heads can be repaired.

And I also want to note one point, if you have decided to sell your car and do not know where to start, just call Center-Auto, which will buy your car. Even if it is after an accident, contact and receive the money on the same day.

How do I get my speaker repaired? FAQ Part 2

This part of the manual explains how to disassemble the speaker's moving system and remove the debris from the magnetic gap.

Access to any question of the FAQ is carried out from any page through the menu "Navigation through the FAQ".

Be careful not to bring steel instruments close to the magnet system, especially on the side of the diffuser or centering washer! This can damage the diffuser or the dust cap!

If you do need to use tools near the magnetic gap, use non-magnetic tools.

If the centering washer is glued with epoxy, repairing the loudspeaker without spare parts can be very problematic.

In other cases, the complexity of the repair depends only on the design of the speaker and the adhesives used during assembly. If the glue with which the suspension is glued and the centering washer can be dissolved with acetone, then you can safely begin disassembly.

Most adhesives dissolve better when the speaker is still young. It happened that such speakers could be disassembled in a matter of minutes. Glue joints made with BF-2, BF-4 glue or glue with similar properties lend themselves best to dismantling.

To disassemble the speaker, you will need the following tools and materials.

1. Acetone is a solvent.
2. Alcohol is a solvent.
3. Pipette * - for dispensing the solvent.
4. Scalpel - for cutting adhesive joints.
5. Trowel - for cutting adhesive joints.
6. Matches are used as spacers.
7. Calico (cotton fabric) - to remove glue residues.
8. Box spanner - for dismantling the magnetic system.

Other tools and materials may also be needed.

Chemically pure acetone ** is preferable to other solvents due to its relatively low toxicity. Therefore, it is better to choose acetone even when it is inferior to other solvents. For example, adhesive joints made using 88H glue dissolve better with ethyl acetate, but it is much more toxic.

True, if the diffuser and the centering washer are glued with BF-2 or BF-4 glue, then ethyl alcohol can be used as a solvent. However, the likelihood that water may be in the alcohol makes acetone the preferred choice.

Depending on what exactly is being dismantled, the appropriate dismantling techniques are also selected. So, for example, if a paper suspension is peeled off, then the dissolution of the glue should be carried out with the utmost care. If the rubber suspension is peeled off from the speaker housing, then the work can be done more aggressively.

* A convenient pipette can be made of a glass reeder and an "artificial vein" from a dropper (a rubber band into which needles are inserted right when the medicine is injected into the vein). An ordinary medical pipette quickly breaks down under the action of acetone, and its length does not allow reaching some adhesive joints.

** Pure acetone can be easily distinguished by its smell. You just need to know this smell. Unfortunately, at the present time, under the name "Acetone" they sell anything. Often some arbitrary solvent or a mixture of different solvents is poured into the bottles. And this is not surprising, because we have 400 gr. acetone costs the same as a bottle of vodka. This is a good reason to trade a bottle of vodka for a bottle of pure acetone in some industry.

If you are having difficulty with perseverance, then turn on your favorite movie as the background, since dismantling the moving system of a large speaker can take a long time.

Dismantling of the rubber suspension begins from some edge where the glue beads are less. By adding acetone and raising the edge of the suspension, a cavity is created into which acetone is again poured.

The work will go faster if you start to dissolve the glue in several places at once.

Each time, adding a few drops of acetone to the resulting cavities, the edges are gradually raised. To prevent the suspension from sticking back, matches are substituted under it. As the glue dissolves, the matches are shifted to the edges of the cavity.

It is not recommended to make great efforts when separating rubber from metal.Rubber can deform irreversibly and even crack.

Dismantling a cardboard hanger from the side of the case differs from dismantling non-paper hangers only in that it requires more accuracy and patience.

No great effort should be made to avoid damaging the suspension, which becomes especially vulnerable when exposed to a solvent.

If you use too much solvent, you can damage the mounting plane of the suspension, and the corrugation itself. Therefore, if the adhesive connection is difficult to dissolve, then mechanical action must be used. A not very sharp scalpel will do here.

If you notice that the cardboard corrugation has begun to delaminate, then it is better to suspend work and think about another technology.

After dismantling the paper hanger, the mounting plane may be deformed. You can return it to its original shape if you place the diffuser on a flat glass or other solvent-resistant surface, and again slightly soften the mounting plane with acetone. During this operation, you can also remove the remaining adhesive.

In some cases, for example, when the very edge of the paper corrugation from the side of the body is already damaged, you can cut off the hanger along the edge and build up the lost fastening edge using cloth or paper. It may seem that this is a too time-consuming repair option, but if the suspension is destroyed under the influence of a solvent, it will be completely impossible to restore the speaker without a spare diffuser.

In other cases, it is easier to peel off the suspension from the side of the diffuser, rather than from the side of the body. This method gave good results when repairing speakers 10GDSH-1 (10GD-36) with foam rubber suspensions, however, while they were new.

In some cases, when rewinding the speaker, the centering washer is peeled off only from the side of the case. This is usually done when the glue with which the washer is glued to the diffuser does not dissolve well and the diffuser may be damaged during dismantling.

But, it happens, and vice versa, that it is much easier to glue the joint between the centering washer and the diffuser than along its outer perimeter. Then it becomes possible not to center the speaker during assembly.

However, sometimes, after rewinding and assembling such a speaker, it may require additional centering. This applies mainly to speakers where the centering washer is not glued to the cone, but to the sleeve, and may be due to too large a gap between the sleeve and the centering washer.

When dismantling the centering washer from the side of the body, the adhesive joint is soaked with a solvent immediately along the entire perimeter. As the glue softens, the edge of the washer rises and matches are placed under it.

When dismantling the centering washer from the side of the diffuser, the adhesive is impregnated with a solvent, too, along the entire perimeter.

To prevent damage to the diffuser due to prolonged exposure to the solvent, the process can be accelerated with a small paddle.

At the end of the dismantling of the diffuser and the centering washer, glue residues are removed from all surfaces using a solvent and coarse calico (cotton fabric).

To prevent debris from getting into the magnetic gap, the gap is sealed with electrical tape.

If metal filings are present in the magnetic gap, parasitic overtones such as rustling, crackling, etc. may appear during speaker operation.

Two simple tools are used to remove the sawdust - a piece of copper or brass wire and a wooden spatula. A spatula for large speakers can be cut out of a handle from a small brush, and for small ones - from a toothpick.

First, with the help of a bent wire, the sawdust is moved to the visible area of ​​the magnetic gap.

Then the wooden spatula is covered with a layer of 88H glue, which is allowed to dry. When the glue hardens slightly, the spatula is placed in the magnetic gap and the sawdust is collected. If it was not possible to remove all the sawdust in one step, then the spatula is cleaned and a new layer of glue is applied to it.

Both of the above operations are repeated until the sawdust is no longer visible in the magnetic gap.