In detail: do-it-yourself phone speaker repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
A mobile phone is a convenient and irreplaceable assistant. But it often happens that failures occur in his work and this cannot but upset.
For example, when the interlocutor is completely inaudible, although the speaker volume is set to maximum in the settings. This is due to the failure of the auditory speaker. The sound is either not audible at all or audible, but very weak.
Here, what do not do, replacing the speaker simply cannot be avoided.
This article details disassembling and replacing the speaker in a common smartphone.
You can find a speaker for your model in one of the online stores, of which there are plenty.
Sometimes the speaker may outwardly differ from the one in the phone, it may be analogs that will perfectly replace the original one. It so happens that they work even longer than branded ones.
In any case, it is better to first disassemble the phone and see what your speaker looks like, then you can be sure that you are ordering what you need.
So, first remove the back cover. Everyone knows how to do this on their phone. Usually it is kept on snaps.
Next, it's a little more complicated. It is necessary to remove the battery, SIM card and memory card.
Then, using a small straight or Phillips screwdriver, unscrew all the screws around the perimeter of the case.
When all the screws have been loosened with the plectrum - if you have one - remove the protective cover. It also has snaps.
Instead of a pick, you can use a sharpened piece of a plastic ruler or a plastic card.
This must be done carefully, making sure that the working part of the tool does not protrude into the body by more than 2 mm.
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Video (click to play). |
When the protective casing is removed, we find the earpiece.
It is soldered through a ribbon cable in two places.
Using a magnifying glass and a 25W soldering iron, you can easily remove a faulty speaker. You just need to sharpen the soldering iron tip in the shape of an awl. It is better to do this on an emery machine.
Heating the soldering iron and grabbing the speaker with your fingers, gently solder it.
Here is a dismantled speaker in the photo.
A similar Chinese analogue can serve as a replacement for the original speaker.
We clean the place where the speaker is installed from dust that penetrates from the outside through the holes on the case. Then we insert the speaker there and use tweezers to form the wires so that their ends fall on the soldering points.
Next, holding the wires, we solder them.
We wipe the place of soldering with cotton wool dipped in alcohol or cologne.
We put on a protective cover and insert a SIM card, we check the speaker's operation.
If everything is ok, fix the cover with screws.
Insert the memory card and snap the cover.
Now the phone is like new, if the problem recurs, we replace the speaker again in the same way. But so that the problem does not recur often, it is better to set the volume to an average value.
Let's consider one of the main reasons for the failure of a mobile phone: "various liquids hitting the board" does not turn on, a white screen or some buttons do not work. Of course, before opening the case, you need to know the cause of the breakdown. If one of the above is written, read on.
We open it, conduct a visual inspection for the presence of corrosion, dirt and other unnecessary substances.
First of all, we remove all plastic parts, in general, everything that can be removed is detached. Do not forget about the film with membrane-type keyboard buttons, we also peel it off (this is on other models, on ours the keyboard board is disconnected).
We take a cleansing liquid (such as alcohol, Kolosha gasoline, cologne), I use Isoprapanol, it does not have an unpleasant odor like Kolosha.
We take a toothbrush, who doesn't mind a new one, dip it in alcohol, and clean the board until it looks like new - especially the contacts for the display, the USB connector. Do not press too hard, some components may be demolished.
We cleaned it, now we take the flux, take a brush, smear it with flux near the microcircuits (more), put the hair dryer at 325 degrees and warm up all the microcircuits in a circle and in the middle, the distance from the outlet of the tip (nozzle) of the hair dryer to the surface of the microcircuit is 1.5 cm. it is better and more economical to take a medium diameter.
We heat to such an extent that the tin melts at the components located around the perimeter (adjust the temperature to 330 degrees). Very, very neatly shake the microcircuit with a needle so that it moves a little. It is important not to wobble too much, otherwise it will slip off the contacts, and so on with all the microcircuits not glued (without compound). We also warm up the filters, in order to remove the flux, you can use an ultrasonic bath, but we will do it differently.
We pour alcohol under all the microcircuits without a compound, hold it for a little so that the alcohol has time to collect all the dirt. Now we take the hair dryer from the soldering station and blow it under the microcircuits. Blowing alcohol out from under the microcircuits in this way, we do not need it there. The temperature of the hair dryer should be for warming up, not for soldering, it is in the range from 260 to 290 degrees, depending on which station.
Done, let's move on. Now let cool and collect. If the breakage is fixed after assembly, then "Hurray, everything is ready." If, nevertheless, the white screen and non-short buttons do not work, you need to replace the filters or put jumpers, but that's another story. The most important parts that can fail after water or after a fall (impact) are filters (so-called glasses), they look like this.
You need to do the same with them as with the rest of the microcircuits, only solder these places more carefully. Warm up, stir, about the flux (do not forget to apply) with it, the components will not get off the contacts. Now everything seems to be. What we have done only applies to breakage due to moisture getting inside the phone. Other breakdowns, such as "does not charge" or "the network does not catch" - this cannot be fixed, components will need to be replaced. More about this in future publications. Best regards, OPA.
The fact that a speaker for a mobile phone requires urgent replacement is evidenced by extraneous noise when using the phone or the complete absence of sound. From the practice of specialists: repairing a damaged speaker is a painstaking business, and not rewarding, since a repaired part is unlikely to last long. To make your phone work like new and serve you faithfully and effectively for a long time and productively, it is enough to replace the speaker.
Installing a new speaker for mobile phone, you can not only restore the sound functions of the gadget, but also significantly improve the sound. You can make a replacement both at home and in a service center, where the work will be done much faster and better.
If you nevertheless decide to install by yourself speaker for mobile phone, then we suggest using a small algorithm of actions for the most convenient work. Replacing the speaker is not as difficult an operation as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to have the necessary tool at hand, some knowledge, a desire to work and perseverance.
And the most important thing is self-confidence. The most necessary tool, in this case, is a soldering iron with a thin tip. Even when removing a faulty part, in no case should it be torn off or pulled out, it is necessary to carefully solder the contacts with a soldering iron and pull out the old speaker. In any case, the repair must begin with the fact that the phone should be disassembled or unscrewed, that is, remove the back cover.
In every phone speaker for mobile can be located in different places, but it is not difficult to find it. Having freed the phone from the old one, they did it as indicated above, and having two free contacts at their disposal, you can install a new spare part. You should work very carefully with a soldering iron, since due to the small size of the speaker, the contacts are located close enough to each other, and if you carelessly, you can connect them, thereby provoking their closure and combustion.
If you decide to install a speaker from another phone model to increase the sound capabilities of the gadget, keep in mind that due to the non-standard dimensions, it may go beyond the gadget. The new spare part on the board should be installed strictly in the place where the old one was installed. When installing a speaker removed from another mobile device, keep in mind that the sound quality may vary from device to device.
If you are going to install speaker for mobile on the slider, you must first perform the operation to disconnect the cable by pulling it out of the case or disconnecting it from the screen under the front cover. The second option allows you not to completely disassemble the phone, which allows you to complete the work on installing a new component much faster.
If you still doubt your abilities, you shouldn't risk it and disassemble the device yourself. Use the services of the service center.
Has the speaker wheezed or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First, diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.
We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.
Now the second check. We put the speaker on the magnet and gently move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustle or creak, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.
If there is no grinding, and the winding is open - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper veins that break over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. T.F. a suitable cross-section or a braid tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the place of soldering with Moment glue.
If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, put the speaker on the magnet and with a swab dipped in acetone, soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it, prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. In the same way, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull the diffuser straight up without skewing.
I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and centering washer, so as not to disturb the centering of the speaker.
To rewind, you need to assemble a simple device, the device of which is clear from the figure. The hardest part is the spool holder. To make it, you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material - any metal.
We measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The mandrel for the spool should have a diameter of x + 0.5 mm at one end and x-0.5 mm at the other end.
On the large end, we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
We drill a 6.5 mm through hole for the stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.
Now you can start winding. We need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.
We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding by gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we glue it with a layer of paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers. We wind the wire coil to coil, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind not tightly, but tightly.
On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same actions in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amperes to dry. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help to easily remove it from the mandrel.
We check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap and start assembling.
We need to align the coil exactly to the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a film or X-ray film gasket in the gap.
2) Apply a small constant voltage of 2-3 Volts to the coil so that it is slightly pulled inward.
Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically downward without skewing and without radial displacement, press. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.
After the glue dries, remove the gasket and check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, we glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!
Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount. I think the following will help anyone who has hands that grow out of the right place to fix the speaker.
Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222), now serving as one of the autosubs. A week later, after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he emitted extraneous sounds when working out the bass parts, and wheezed a little. It was decided to conduct an autopsy.
After autopsy, a diseased organ was removed from the patient's body - woofer 25GDN-1-4, 86 of release. The organ clearly needed operation - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click), and when ringing in various tones (generated by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible rattling-crackling was heard with a large diffuser stroke and when ultra-low (5-15Hz) ) frequencies. It was decided to trepan this organ
First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads)
Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle to the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).
... the place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (around the perimeter).
... and the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the basket of the diffuser holder (again around the perimeter)
In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)
Attention! When working with a solvent, safety measures should be observed - avoid contact with skin (use rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!
When wetting - use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of the coil and centering washer!
Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!
After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).
By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.
Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.) 
We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker. We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.
We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!
Gently bend back the copper antennae.
... and unsolder the lead wires.
We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)
We cut the supply wiring at the break point.
... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin). Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!
Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "antennae" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years?
We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wiring is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.
We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to maintain the length.
We center the diffuser in its basket using film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter, to maintain the same gap. The amount (or thickness) of the centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruding outward, it freely rests on it and does not fall inward. For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of film are enough for this, placed in pairs in front of each other. The length of the film should be such that it does not interfere if you put the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below. We glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, without skewing).
We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!).
Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent. In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.
We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.
We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of the new factory analogous speaker.
That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.
Yes, after the operation, the former patient got a second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work:
I needed an apparatus for a second phone, the requirements were - that it should ring, be push-button, keep the battery and be cheap. I found a used Philips e1500, but the truth is not quite working, but with a whole keyboard and battery - for only 100 rubles! Here is a small overview of the device in the form of characteristics from the manufacturer:
- Number of SIM-cards 2
- Weight 70 g
- Dimensions (WxHxT) 46x107x15 mm
- Screen type color TFT
- Diagonal 1.77 inch
- Image size 160 × 128
- Pixels Per Inch (PPI) 116
- Type of melodies 64-voice polyphony, MP3 melodies
- Multimedia Capabilities - MP3, FM Radio
- There is a dictaphone
- There are games
- 3.5mm headphone jack
- GSM 900/1800/1900 standard
- Internet access WAP, GPRS
- Interfaces Bluetooth 2.1, USB
- Slot for memory cards up to 32 GB
- Battery capacity 800 mAh
- Talk time 6.7 h
- Waiting time 670 h
- Speakerphone - built-in speaker
- There is a flashlight
- Equipment - phone, battery, charger, stereo headset
The device turned out to be with a wheezing speaker.
I checked the battery - it looks good, and with measurements I realized that it was like new.
I disassembled the phone: I cleaned everything, during the operation a lot of dirt has accumulated, including metal shavings.
I disassembled the device with special curly screwdrivers and a mediator - you can also use a plastic card.
The speaker completely collapsed and was covered in shavings - it certainly was for replacement, and the new speaker for this device was flat and did not fit from other devices - I had to buy a new original one, which at a price turned out to be more expensive than buying the device - 200 rubles. Yes, repairs came out 2 times more expensive than the phone itself, it often happens.
The frame of the mobile phone had a small crack in one place - it dissolved the epoxy composition and glued it under a hair dryer from the soldering station at a temperature of 100 degrees, now this is the most durable place in the phone - as a rule, such connections do not break even with a hammer when the resin hardens.
Everything was thoroughly washed, including the slightly green board - first in a degreaser, then in alcohol, and finally wiped with napkins for cleaning monitors and a special composition.
Assembled in reverse order and it turned out almost like new, especially since the device actually holds the battery for about a week - calls from it per day for 20 minutes + messages, the flashlight is convenient in the garage, only one card slot is used. You can leave your mobile phone in the cold, although it has not been possible to test below -2 so far, but at the same time, even after almost 8 hours, the performance of the device has not changed at all in such cold weather. Author - redmoon.
If you want to replace and at the same time amplify the speaker on your mobile phone, this is the place for you! I changed the speaker on my Samsung phone
Hey! Many people have great phones, but they have a bad speaker or a raucous sound. Also, many people rush to buy a new phone faster just because of such a trifle, not knowing that the speaker volume can be corrected by replacing the speaker on the phone.
This is what I suggest you do with your own hands. Replacing the speaker is not an easy thing, since everything is very compact in the phone, and if you accidentally do something wrong, it will be very difficult to return everything to its original form. This is especially true for replacing the speaker on the phone with your own hands.
To replace the speaker in your phone, you need professional soldering iron with a fine tip, for delicate work. Before starting to replace the speaker, I would like to say right away if you are not sure about your accomplishment of this task, then it is better not to start it!
Because you can completely break your entire phone. And if the phone is just bought or new, I would also advise against disassembling it if you are not sure of your achievement.
And so in this article I will describe how to amplify the sound speaker by replacing it with a non-standard one. That is, replacing it with another speaker of non-standard sizes.
To amplify the sound, replace the speaker with a non-standard one, you will need the following components:
1. The phone in which you are going to change (amplify) the speaker
2. Speaker. Since we are going to amplify the sound with a non-standard-sized speaker, you will need a speaker from an old player or radio that is relatively small.
3. Small tip soldering iron
And so if you still dare change the speaker on your phone with your own hands, then you need to disassemble it first. Since I was amplifying the sound on my old Samsung slider, I had to disassemble it completely by removing the sliding front cover. If you have an ordinary phone, without any retractable gadgets, then you should just unwind it.
After unwinding, you should see a small speaker on the front cover, perhaps it will be in some other place, not as shown in the picture. Basically, each phone has a personal arrangement of parts so take a closer look and you will find everything you need.
Pulling out the speaker
Since our speaker is not standard sizes, it will look out. But on the other hand, you will have a very significant result. There will be a loud sound that will be heard well in nature, in a crowd of people, and especially at home.
So, in order to solder this speaker to the main board, you need to first remove the old one. In no case, you can not pull it or tear it off. You need to take a soldering iron with a small sting and carefully, without unnecessary effort, solder the old speaker. After the two conductors are released, you can start working.
Be very careful when soldering and soldering all conductors. Since in the phone all the conductors are at a very small distance from each other, you can not on purpose, without wanting to, close two contacts.
The new speaker should be soldered to the same place where the old one was.
If you have a slider phone, like mine, then I want to give you a little advice on disconnecting the loop.If you can't pull it out of the case, then this is not necessary, since you can simply open the front cover and disconnect the flex cable from the screen.
This quick method does not require a complete disassembly of the phone, so you do not have to take it apart for a long time.
Well, as you can see, we again replaced the speaker with Our Own Hands, improved and amplified the sound on our phone. I think this is a great achievement. Moreover, the old speaker can be put back at any time.
Let me remind you again! If you are not sure of your ability to do this, you better do not take it.
Thank you for reading! Happy speaker change on your phone.
See also how to make or fix electronics with your own hands
The phone is about 3 years old, the model of the Chinese smartphone is called Hero 9300+, which served me with faith and truth, but for the last half a year the speaker practically did not work (wheezing, noisy), at first it cleaned it, and everything was fine, but then all the same covered himself. The speaker is a bit out of the ordinary, I didn't want to go looking, so I decided to try to install the speaker from another phone, namely from the broken Nokia X2-00.
I took out the speakers, there are 2 of them in Nokia, so there was plenty to choose from, to the left of the Chinese, to the right of Nokia.
First, I wanted to check if the speaker on my phone will play at all, I soldered two wires to the speaker and two to the contact on the phone.
The speaker played, but it wheezed, apparently, it was also broken, so I tried to connect a second speaker, which was already playing cleanly, and it completely suited me.
But since the speakers were different, in terms of placing contacts, they had to be redone, antennae were taken from the native speaker.
Then they were soldered to the Nokievsky speaker, in this way.
Now all that remained was to put it in the place of the native speaker.
But the Nokia speaker was a little wider and did not fit into the tray, so one partition had to be removed.
And he firmly fell into place.
Then he slightly bent the antennae forward, just like on the native speaker, so that the beam made contact, and assembled the body.
As a result of all these actions, I finally hear that someone is calling me, and I can listen to music as in the old days. : e113:
Thank you for your attention, I hope this alteration will help someone else, and he will hear the sounds of his own phone!
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Has the speaker wheezed or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First, diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.
We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.
Now the second check. We put the speaker on the magnet and gently move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustle or creak, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.
If there is no grinding, and the winding is open - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper veins that break over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. T.F. a suitable cross-section or a braid tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the place of soldering with Moment glue.
If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, put the speaker on the magnet and with a swab dipped in acetone, soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it, prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. In the same way, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull the diffuser straight up without skewing.
I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and centering washer, so as not to disturb the centering of the speaker.
To rewind, you need to assemble a simple device, the device of which is clear from the figure. The hardest part is the spool holder. To make it, you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material - any metal.
We measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The mandrel for the spool should have a diameter of x + 0.5 mm at one end and x-0.5 mm at the other end.
On the large end, we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
We drill a 6.5 mm through hole for the stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.
Now you can start winding. We need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.
We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding by gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we glue it with a layer of paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers. We wind the wire coil to coil, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind not tightly, but tightly.
On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same actions in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amperes to dry. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help to easily remove it from the mandrel.
We check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap and start assembling.
We need to align the coil exactly to the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a film or X-ray film gasket in the gap.
2) Apply a small constant voltage of 2-3 Volts to the coil so that it is slightly pulled inward.
Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically downward without skewing and without radial displacement, press. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.
After the glue dries, remove the gasket and check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, we glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!
Are the speakers wheezing? Do not rush to throw them away, getting rid of the wheezing of the speakers is possible and not so difficult. Speaker wheezing, a fairly common phenomenon, is most often found in broadband acoustics, due to dust and all kinds of debris trapped between the core and the coil, which, when moving the speaker cone, causes an unpleasant sound in the form of a speaker wheezing. Speaker repair consists in disassembling the speaker and removing the source of the unpleasant sound.
A wheezing four-way coaxial speaker from Pioneer was repaired. The main tool for disassembling the speaker, a regular, flat screwdriver and a soldering iron.
First of all, I removed the buzzer module. In this model, the buzzer module was fastened with a long bolt, which was hidden under the magnet sticker. On other models, the tweeters can be simply glued, in which case, they need to be ripped off, but before that, if possible, unsolder the wires going to the tweeters.
In the lower photo, if you look closely, you can see debris between the metal core and the sound winding.
After the tweeter module was unscrewed and the wires were sealed from it, armed with a screwdriver, he forged the plastic cover that presses the rubber suspension of the diffuser and carefully, slowly, was peeled off.
With the same tool, I peeled off the diffuser suspension. With a screwdriver, it is enough to pry it off a little, then you can peel it off with your hands.
I unsoldered the wiring to start peeling off the centering washer.
Peeling off the centering washer is a little more difficult than the previously peeled off parts, you cannot rush here, it is easy to damage the washer.
There was a lot of debris inside the speaker, no wonder it was constantly wheezing.
On the voice coil of the speaker, scratches are visible, proving the presence of foreign objects, the insulation of the winding is damaged. The protective layer of the winding, it is desirable to restore, for this you can open it with varnish or epoxy resin over the scratches, with a small layer.
We clean, wash, vacuum all parts of the speaker.
Well, now the most difficult thing that had to be faced with the repair of speakers is the removal of metal particles magnetized to the core. A vacuum cleaner cannot cope with them. Scotch came to the rescue, with the help of just such not cunning actions, everything that was superfluous in the dynamics was removed.
Then it was necessary to glue everything into place. I glued the speaker with ordinary, universal glue. Moment.
I did not remove the old traces of glue, since it is easy to navigate along them when gluing the speaker, which allows you to glue it correctly and without distortions. But all the same, you need to check if the winding clings to the core when the diffuser moves.
If everything went well, there is no extraneous noise when the diffuser moves, we add it, solder it, assemble the speaker.
Refurbished speaker, pictured on the right. The speaker repair was successful, everything works and does not wheeze.
There is absolutely nothing in disassembling the speaker, there is nothing complicated, everything is simple and easy, the main thing is not to rush. It took me about an hour to repair one speaker.
DIY woofer repair
Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount.
I think that the following will help anyone who has a great desire and perseverance to fix the speaker, rather than buying a new woofer.
Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222).
The organ clearly needed to be operated - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click). It was decided to trepan this organ.
First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads).
Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle to the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).
Place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (perimeter).
And the place of gluing the diffuser itself to the basket of the diffuser-holder (again around the perimeter).
In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)
Attention! When working with a solvent, you should observe safety measures - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!
When wetting, use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of the coil and the centering washer!
Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!
After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).
By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.
Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)
Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)
We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker.
We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.
We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!
Gently bend back the copper "antennae".
And we solder the lead wires.
We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)
We cut the supply wiring at the break point.
... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin). Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!
Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "tendrils" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years? ;),
We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.
We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to keep the length.
We glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, without skewing).
We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)
Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent.In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.
We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.
We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of the new factory analogous speaker.
That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.
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Video (click to play). |
After the operation, the speaker seemed to have a second wind, and he continued to stand and play in the subwoofer.
