In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a diode bridge of a Bosch generator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Hello dear motorists! Today I will tell you how to repair a generator with your own hands. You may have already encountered such a problem, when the battery discharge indicator suddenly came on on the dashboard, this means that your car has lost its charging, and you will not have long to drive, the battery will last for a maximum of 1-2 hours.
Do not rush to throw away the generator. Try to repair it first. The most common generator malfunction is brush wear.
To check the brush assembly, you need to remove the rear plastic cover by bending the three plastic clips located in a circle.
Remove the cover, unscrew the two screws and remove the voltage regulator.
Check the wear of the brushes, if the residual length of the brushes is less than five millimeters, feel free to buy a new voltage regulator in the store. Sometimes it happens that the generator does not charge or recharges the battery, this is also a malfunction of the voltage regulator. The normal voltage of the generator is 13.5 to 14.5 volts, depending on the engine speed and the load on the generator.
The next generator malfunction is a breakdown of the diode bridge. To test the diodes, the diode bridge must be removed. We unscrew the bolts that hold the diode bridge.
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Video (click to play). |
Bend the wires to the side.
Remove the diode bridge. How to check a diode bridge. Read here: How to check a diode bridge?
After removing the diode bridge, be sure to check the stator windings. We do this, turn on the multimeter in dial mode and check all three stator windings for an open. All windings must ring among themselves.
Next, we check the short to ground. We connect one probe of the multimeter to ground, and the second is alternately connected to the terminals of the windings. There should be no short circuit to ground.
Similarly, we check the armature winding.
We check the anchor, there is no short circuit to ground.
Now I will show you how to disassemble the alternator to replace the bearings. We unscrew the four screws connecting the two halves of the generator together.
Unscrew the nut and remove the pulley.
Using a screwdriver, carefully split the generator in two so as not to damage the aluminum covers.
Replace defective bearings with new ones. Reassemble the generator in reverse order.
Friends, I wish you good luck! See you in new articles!
Time zone: UTC + 3 hours [Daylight Saving Time]
Last edited by KoPoJIb on Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well, here's a report for you)))! Do not scold for the quality of the photo and for the possible clumsy, the first race is all the same)))
Added after 1 minute 59 seconds:
We unscrew the pins and unsolder the stator from the diode mast!
Added after 20 minutes 58 seconds:
We solder diodes on the bridge!
Remove the plate with diodes and nickname them all!
We drill out the detected (burned out) diode
I bought two diodes of 35 amperes each (45r one piece) since I burned out two and of different polarity, that is, one has a minus on the cap, the other has a plus
We solder the foot since the feet of the diodes themselves are too small for our diode bridges.
We drive a new diode into the hole from the old one after cleaning everything there!
Well, that's all, we solder it, we twist everything back as it was, put it back in place and everything works like a watch (well, of course, I took it apart in one go, cleaned it all up, started the bearings for a new one)
Added after 3 minutes 52 seconds:
it turned out that the diode bridge was repaired in 125r along with the drive to the store and the one who was killed yesterday evening, well, today it’s two hours (this is all together with reading a book, searching for information on the Internet and talking with familiar electricians, trips to the store) so it seems to me that it will go away well, maybe everything about all two hours
Last edited by KoPoJIb on Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Excellent video, I could not understand for a long time how many amperes my generator is, and only thanks to you I realized that if there are 6 lamps in my "mirror" diode bridge, then the sadness is the trouble I have not the correct diode bridge?
What to do the generator repaired and changed the brushes and charging not dyot
If the alternator won't charge, then you haven't repaired it. Continue troubleshooting. Check IRN, diode bridge, additional diodes, field winding integrity, and stator winding.
I have exactly the same gene only on it there is UNIPOINT engraving, and more and more there is nothing, it is written, the diode bridge is the same as in your video with 8 diodes and is also not working, give the marking of the diode bridge that is podoschol.
I made this generator last year, unfortunately I will not help with information.
WHERE IS THIS DIODE BRIDGE TO BUY
I was picking up at the auto shop.
I had a Bosch 140a generator on my BMW, the light was flickering, I took it for repairs at the stand, they checked it, they said that everything works well, I read the forum, they said the regulator with brushes is to blame, I bought a new mobilitron regulator, the flickering went away but after 3-4 days it started again, what would you advise? the forum writes a diode bridge, but if it was originally a diode bridge, as then after replacing the regulator, flickering passed
You can only change additional diodes
that is, in any case, the diode bridge is maintainable to change entirely, there is no need to change it?
If one of the additional diodes is wet-soldered, this is possible. It is necessary to solder the bridge, ring out completely, then solder each soldering point.
tell me where to solder the output (W) to the tachometer
What is your car? And clarify, do you know where to connect the tachometer on the generator? Don't you have an exit W?
Message 11piligrim11 Feb 20, 2014 1:37 am
(originally posted on vento-club.com by Ksilen)
Due to the drop in the battery charge voltage and the appearance of noise during the operation of the generator, it was necessary to “reanimate” it, and indeed to reanimate it, since the autopsy showed that urgent transplantation of several organs was required.
Let's start with the fact that the 120A Bosch generator with the partner number 0123510006 (028903025R) and its cost (the original, with this particular partner number) in terms of existential is 61000r, of course there are analogues, much cheaper, but still.
I don’t worry about simple and understandable stages, I’ll just mention it. So let's go.
First, remove the terminals from the battery in order to prevent a short circuit when dismantling the generator, then dismantle the wiring, this requires a 13 key (ratchet head) to remove the wire from the main terminal of the generator, then an 8 head to remove the wire holder sleeve.
Disconnect the excitation signal connector.
Now the dismantling of the genes.
With a power screwdriver, a thin pry bar, or a 17 key, bend the tensioner roller bar to release and throw off the belt.
To make it more convenient - you need to remove the air filter housing and unscrew one (closest to the bumper) plastic frame for attaching the filter housing.
Now you need to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the generator. This requires a ratchet with a short extension and a 13-point head. It is better to rip off the bolts with a spanner wrench so as not to strain the ratchet.
The lower bolt is unscrewed without an extension, because the ratchet rests against the spar and will not allow it to be unscrewed.
After these simple manipulations, the generator is removed from the bracket, if you do not want to remove it, you should carefully help it with a pry bar or a sludge screwdriver.
To disassemble the generator you need to sweat, in the absence of specials.keys (and I'm sure that most of the people do not have those, so we will exclude their use) here we need additional devices, we prepare right away:
1. Drill with a drill for metal F4-5
2. Phillips screwdriver
3. Gas key
4. Bit - asterisk # 8
5. Head 24
6. Bearing puller.
These are basic, additional ones are used. screwdrivers and so on.
he coped with the big bearing without any problems, so it was decided - Take.
What is the peculiarity - very thin legs, which slip under the bearing without any problems, and the distance for maneuver is not more than 4 mm - which undoubtedly complicates the use of non-specialized pullers.
The second bearing can also be removed without any problems.
Further worse, slip rings, since they are pretty worn out, it was decided to replace them.
Disconnect the 2 wires in the coolant from the current collector terminals.
Then (at first) I used a screwdriver to pry it off, but with a screwdriver I only crumbled the body of the current collector, and returned all to the same bearing puller.
I picked up the sides to be shorter to fix the puller legs, and hooked it to the lower slip ring.
It was scary that the puller would simply break the copper ring, but the puller worked clearly and completed the task without problems (do not be afraid of clicks - it seems that everything is cracking, but this is the sound of plastic sliding over the metal).
And here is the dismantled current collector.
Well, everything is sorted out. This stage has been completed.
Stage 3 - ordering and spare parts.
Why this stage is here - and not earlier - only because it is not known which parts are out of order and which are not.
Summarize
1. Slip ring
2. Front bolster
3. Rear bearing
4. Brush holder
Torque —— 63032RS —— Generator bearing —— 88.25r.
Koyo —— 6203 2RS —— Generator bearing —— 215.11r.
Huco —— 13 0552 —— Generator regulator —— 582.06 rubles.
Ika —— 1 2039 0 —— Generator contact ring —— 93.12r.
The total cost of 978 rubles is 54 kopecks. (price varies depending on the manufacturer of the parts)
Step 4 Reassemble in reverse order.
All the necessary parts have come.
In addition, screws have been added to the list - 4x20 countersunk. Since we drilled them when disassembling the generator. And also the belt tensioner roller, as the native also hummed.
The slip ring is put on by light tapping with a hammer through a wooden block, wires are soldered to it.
The small bearing is clogged with a suitable mandrel.
The large (front) bearing is first pressed into the body, and then, together with the body, is put on the anchor, tightening the pulley nut, it is pulled tightly (do not forget the distance washer, which was there)
then a simple assembly of the case and voila - you're done!
The last stage remains - installation in place.
lesnik46 » 15.11.15 17:32
I started to repair the BOSCH 0123320014 generator, beep bearing No. 6203, and the charging was somehow undercharged.
In the process of disassembly, it turned out that there was a kapets in the rear bearing, brushes and, most importantly, a diode bridge.
The reason is that the power bolt on the battery was oxidized, the plastic case of the diode bridge itself warmed up and collapsed.
Question: Who was the collective farm diode bridge?
BOSCH 1127319583
BOSCH 1127319584
BOSCH 1127320870
lesnik46 » 15.11.15 17:34
scorp055 » 15.11.15 21:58
scorp055 » 15.11.15 22:08
stress » 15.11.15 23:47
lesnik46 » 19.02.16 23:01
lesnik46 » 19.02.16 23:03
Sphinx » 25.02.16 11:00
Felix » 25.02.16 14:30
Kostya Lugansk » 25.02.16 20:34
Allochka » 21.06.17 20:28
ford1972s » 21.06.17 20:47
Allochka » 22.06.17 09:00
ford1972s » 22.06.17 11:50
Allochka » 22.06.17 12:10
Felix » 22.06.17 13:20
Allochka » 27.06.17 21:56
lex400305 » 29.06.17 21:38
Allochka » 29.06.17 21:51
lex400305 » 29.06.17 22:00
Conference of the Skoda Car Lovers Club
And so we have a Skoda octavia 1.6 AKL car produced in 2002. Mileage on the speedometer 250 thousand kilometers. Generator Valeo 90A catalog number 030 903 023 J. Symptoms: hum when consumers are turned on (as it turned out, not from the generator).
Bearing front FAG 63032RSR
Bearing rear FAG 62022RSR
Protective ring of the cargo bearing 135508
Contact plastic (current collector) Cargo 230090
BOSCH 1127014022 regulator relay brushes (a little more than necessary, but it doesn't matter)
Epoxy adhesive, fast drying or cold welding
Good stock of tin
What is needed from the tools:
Keys 10, 13, 15, 24 (bent for the nut in the pulley), if not bent then gas
Heads 7, 8, 10, 13, 24
Good powerful soldering iron (I have 75W)
Screwdrivers, mallet, hammer
Torx Bits
Pullers large 3-jaw and small 2-jaw for bearings
Metal brush
The process itself: (photo of only important operations)
1) Remove the lower protective cover of the engine (AKL)
2) Disconnect the 2-pin connector from the generator and unscrew the power wire from the generator using a 13-point head.Be careful with the power cord. I carefully unscrewed it, took it aside and wrapped it with electrical tape so that it would not close to the case. If you are afraid of silt, you are not sure of yourself, then disconnect the battery.
3) With a 15 key, pull the poly V-belt tensioner towards ourselves until the holes in its body match, insert the pin, remove the belt. Remember in which direction the belt was, put it back in the same direction.
You don't have to, but it's more convenient:
4) Use a key or a 13-point head to unscrew the tensioner screws (3 pieces) of the poly V-belt and remove it.
You don't have to, but it's more convenient:
19) Using the 8 head, unscrew the 4 screws of the plates holding the stator winding for its further cleaning and so that it just does not interfere. 
That's probably all. On other sites there are similar reports on the repair of similar generators, but as it turned out, there are still differences. The diode bridge is attached differently and the diodes are different.
User
Posts: 2608
Registration: 19.12.2006
From: Moscow
As promised, I am posting a report on the restoration (for temporary use - until complete replacement) of the diode bridge of the generator:
generator without a back cover (rotor), you can see how cut the slip rings are:
diode bridge, the unsoldered contact of the inoperative diode and a piece of the VAZ diode bridge - donor are visible:
stator, cracks are visible in the enamel of the wire with traces of oxidation:
diode bridge, open seat of inoperative diode
diode bridge after replacing the diode, the following points are visible:
- the contact group “+” is cut by 1 mm, because it is riveted on top of the diode and interfered with the replacement, at this stage it is important not to loosen the rivet of the contact group, otherwise the contact will "burn"
- the landing window of the diode was opened, because it was not possible to remove it otherwise without special tools
Commentary: the landing diameter of the domestic diode is 0.25 mm larger than that of the "native" one, so the fit turned out to be very tight (which provides both electrical contact and cooling)
diode bridge after replacing the diode, view from the other side:
diode bridge after replacing the diode, all contacts are restored:
In general, I hope that he will live until the summer
Post has been edited Engine (er) – 9.3.2010, 20:10
User
Posts: 745
Registration: 11.6.2007
From: Mariupol
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Messages: 4860
Registration: 9.1.2007
From: Ukraine
(to Deniska) Pervert. Janitor and camera f studio.
And regarding the report, I would probably do exactly the same as a temporary measure. I myself know that Soviet parts (semiconductors) are shit, but if you pick up a copy, then imported analogs will be far from it.
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Messages: 4842
Registration date: 28.10.2005
From: Belarus - Minsk
User
Posts: 710
Registration: 4.4.2006
From: Ukraine, Zaporozhye
There is nothing more permanent than temporary.
Although, in the absence of money for repair / replacement, such would have come down. temporarily.
Just from my own experience, I will say that restored parts very soon fail at the most inopportune moment, causing maximum trouble. And this is a FACT!
User
Posts: 71
Registration: 23.6.2006
From: Moscow, RV
User
Posts: 1010
Registration: 8.6.2007
From: Skhodnya M.O. RF
There is nothing more permanent than temporary.
Although, in the absence of money for repair / replacement, such would have come down. temporarily.
Just from my own experience, I will say that restored parts very soon fail at the most inopportune moment, causing maximum trouble. And this is a FACT!
User
Posts: 2608
Registration: 19.12.2006
From: Moscow
I cannot help in any way in this matter, tk. on the generator model I have, such an output is not provided.
As you can see in the photographs, the three-pin connector connected to the generator has a “D” contact and a double “+” contact (U-shaped contact riveted to the aluminum “+” bus of the bridge).
There are no more contacts there.
I have a standard generator, there is also a “compact” type generator (it looks like a “ten” one - with a plastic cover on the back end), perhaps the “compact” has a contact of interest, I can’t say for sure.
User
Posts: 2608
Registration: 19.12.2006
From: Moscow
Camera Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ10
User
Posts: 710
Registration: 4.4.2006
From: Ukraine, Zaporozhye
There is nothing more permanent than temporary.
Although, in the absence of money for repair / replacement, such would have come down. temporarily.
Just from my own experience, I will say that restored parts very soon fail at the most inopportune moment, causing maximum trouble. And this is a FACT!
I do not argue, dear thing. BUT! I prefer to make repairs with trusted specialists and with a guarantee. Those. where there is a test bench and an element base for replacement. And the spare parts are original (or "almost original").
And, I repeat, when you break a “solid” device (in this case, a diode bridge) and then, biting out pieces from it, collect it - GUARANTEE that HE WILL SUMMER at the most inappropriate moment.
In other words, the “generators” have enough dead generators (or pieces of them) to repair the gene using the nodal replacement method.
Respect for your ingenuity to the author. Souchasnegam - do not be anonymous, I consider this repair method only as a way to get to the nearest generator.
Respect yourself!
User
Posts: 2608
Registration: 19.12.2006
From: Moscow
I agree with all statements, except for this:
The fact is that no one can really guarantee the long-term operation of the "piece" of the generator, which has already run over hundreds of thousands.
That is, the probability of its failure at the most inopportune moment (according to the law of meanness) is exactly the same as that of my temporarily restored one.
The main problem with a diode bridge is poor contact (electrical and thermal) in any of the connections. Because of this, most domestic generators quickly fail, and the problem is not so much with the build quality as with the designer's miscalculation made when copying the original Bosch product.
According to my data, there is no problem of reliability of domestic bridge diodes during their operation in permissible temperature conditions.
By the way, the failed German diode in the generator described above burned out by itself - simply due to the inevitable degradation of the semiconductor over 20 years of operation. And this is a completely normal phenomenon, the same as metal fatigue.
Therefore, there are two reliable solutions to the problem:
1) Replacing the generator with a NEW one (if there is that kind of money), but not necessarily "native" (I am deeply sure that a new domestic generator, pre-modified after purchase, much more reliable than any used)
2) A bulkhead of a generator in a trusted company using NEW spare parts (a high-quality bulkhead is about 2 times cheaper than a new generator, which is very significant, but still very expensive)
Comments on a good generator bulkhead:
a) It is necessary to replace ALL windings (rotor and stator), since during operation the generator experiences sudden temperature changes, from which, over time, cracks appear in the enamel of the wires, copper oxidizes, the resistance of the windings grows, and then it comes to turn-to-turn closure.
b) It is necessary to replace bearings (production, metal tempering, drying out of the lubricant)
c) It is necessary to replace the slip rings of the rotor (development in the form of grooves from friction in the places where the brushes of the voltage regulator are pressed)
d) It is necessary to replace the diode bridge (oxidation, deterioration of contact, deterioration of heat transfer due to contamination and corrosion of radiators, degradation of semiconductors)
Well, and a final note: I am sure that the installation of a new original generator by a certified (or just an experienced specialist) is the best and most reliable solution!
Personally, I didn't find a free budget item for this, but I'm not asking anyone to follow my example - freedom of choice, you know.
Malfunctions of a car's electrical equipment are very common and occupy one of the leading places in the list of breakdowns. They can be conditionally divided into faults of current sources (batteries, generators) and faults of consumers (optics, ignition, climate, etc.). The main the car's power sources are batteries and generators... Failure of each of them leads to a general malfunction of the car and its operation in abnormal modes, or even to immobilization of the car.
In the electrical equipment of a car, the battery and generator work in an inseparable tandem. If one fails, the other will fail after a while. For example, a broken battery will increase the charging current of the generator. And this entails a malfunction of the rectifier (diode bridge). In turn, in the event of a malfunction of the voltage regulator supplied from the generator, the charging current may increase, which will inevitably lead to systematic recharging of the battery, "boiling off" of the electrolyte and rapid destruction.
- wear or damage to the pulley;
- wear of current-collecting brushes;
- collector wear (slip rings);
- damage to the voltage regulator;
- closure of the turns of the stator winding;
- wear or destruction of the bearing;
- damage to the rectifier (diode bridge);
- damage to the charging circuit wires.
- short circuit of the electrodes / plates of the battery;
- mechanical or chemical damage to the battery plates;
- violation of the tightness of the battery cans - cracks in the battery case as a result of impacts or improper installation;
- chemical oxidation of the output terminals of the battery. The main reasons for these malfunctions are:
- gross violations of operating rules;
- expiration of the product's service life;
- various manufacturing defects.
It is very useful for a motorist to know the main causes of generator malfunctions, ways to eliminate them, as well as preventive measures to prevent breakdowns.
All generators are subdivided into generators alternating and direct current... Modern light vehicles are equipped with alternators with a built-in diode bridge (rectifier). The latter is necessary for converting current into direct current, on which the car's electrical consumers work. The rectifier, as a rule, is located in the cover or housing of the generator and is one piece with the latter.
All electrical appliances of the car are designed for a strictly defined range of operating voltage currents. As a rule, operating voltages are in the range of 13.8-14.7 V. Due to the fact that the generator is "tied" by a belt to the engine crankshaft, from different revolutions and vehicle speed, it will work differently... It is for smoothing and regulating the output current that the voltage regulator relay is intended, which plays the role of a stabilizer and prevents both surges and dips of the operating voltage. Modern generators are equipped with built-in integrated voltage regulators, in common parlance referred to as "chocolate" or "pill".
It is already clear that any generator is a rather complex unit, extremely important for any car.
Due to the fact that any generator is an electromechanical device, respectively, there will be two types of malfunctions - mechanical and electrical.
The first include the destruction of fasteners, housing, malfunction of bearings, hold-down springs, belt drive and others not related to the electrical part of the breakdown.
Electrical faults include winding breaks, diode bridge faults, brush burnout / wear, turn-to-turn short circuits, breakdowns, rotor beatings, and relay-regulator faults.
Often, symptoms that are characteristic of a faulty generator may appear due to completely different problems. As an example, a poor contact in the fuse socket of the generator field winding circuit will indicate a malfunction of the generator. The same suspicion may arise due to burnt contacts in the ignition switch housing. Also, the constant burning of the generator malfunction indicator lamp can be caused by a breakdown of the relay, the blinking of this switching lamp may indicate a generator malfunction.
The main symptoms of a malfunctioning generator:
- When the engine is running, the indicator lamp for battery discharge flashes (or is continuously on).
- Discharge or recharge (boil-off) of the battery.
- Dim car headlights, rattling or low beeps when the engine is running.
- Significant change in the brightness of the headlights with an increase in the number of revolutions. This can be permissible when increasing the speed (overgassing) from the idle mode, but the headlights, having lit up brightly, should not increase their brightness further, remaining at the same intensity.
- Extraneous sounds (howl, squeak) emanating from the generator.
The tension and general condition of the drive belt should be checked regularly. If cracks or delamination occur, replace immediately.
To eliminate the indicated malfunctions of the generator, it will be necessary to carry out repairs. When you start looking for a generator repair kit on the Internet, prepare yourself to be disappointed - the kits offered usually contain washers, bolts and nuts. And sometimes it is possible to return the generator to working capacity only by replacing - brushes, diode bridge, regulator ... Therefore, a brave man who decides to repair makes an individual repair kit from those parts that fit his generator. It looks something like the table below, using the example of a pair of generators for the VAZ 2110 and Ford Focus 2.
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PORTISHEAD Feb 29, 2012
Is the belt loose? May still relay regulator or diode (s). Charging in progress?
I had it.
Somewhere I saw the number of the repair kit on it.
There are no brushes, but if they are on hand, it is not a problem to pick up. (IMHO Exactly)
I came to the market with a relay and picked it up in no time. (10 UAH gave away)
Post has been edited by PORTISHEAD: 02 March 2012 - 10:19
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PORTISHEAD Feb 29, 2012
I didn't manage to solder the old ones. I had to grind it off with a file.
And here's how I, inspired by Valera's experience (dimarock), “repaired” it.
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PORTISHEAD Feb 29, 2012
Was the light bulb dim, brushes or diode bridge? Usually when one diode burns out, then it barely glows.
The rotor could not be removed from the front cover
There's a washer with a tight fit.
A hole is drilled from the side of the washer and expanded with a core. You can put the puck back.
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PORTISHEAD Feb 29, 2012
Well, I’ll still be fed up, but tell me how to test diodes for rupture in this rectifier. There it is welded “to death”. What to bite with side cutters and then solder? Who did how?
Something I suspect diodes. I checked the bridge with an ometer, direct resistance 500 ohms, reverse megaohms.
As I understand it, you did not change the front bearing?
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PORTISHEAD Feb 29, 2012
I meant you two
dimarock - I meant that the pasanchegs could not pull out the rotor, is there some kind of hemorrhage?
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PORTISHEAD Feb 29, 2012
sergei-vasyutin, thanks for the dimension!
The fact of the matter is that now I'm celebrating my 45A, but for now it's at 90A. And the symptoms are the same. If without anything it keeps 14 volts easily. I turn on the headlights - it drops to 13. And with a stove - below 12 to love. I once asked about it on the forum. I was told that the weak link is the wiring. So if anything - sign here, please.
Black1,
sergei-vasyutin, and at the expense relay regulator - I bought a new one at the market. Not Bosch, of course, so it is - just some piece of plastic. So if relay The regulator is working, then I am a supporter of simply soldering the brushes (which takes 5 minutes) and then still dear. Bosch!
Post has been edited by PORTISHEAD: 02 March 2012 - 10:23
so first I have a gene and 55 and 45 both of them repaired and the same, another problem you just give out a little genes in terms of current strength and what kind of battery does your aunt have. more + I clamped the anchor in the drilling machine and the paths where the brushes run with zero polished shone like a cat. just do not get carried away, otherwise you will take off a lot. if the wiring was bad you wouldn't have 14 volts at all.I have, of course, the central wire itself is redone: the battery is a starter and a gene = two wires, and the terminal is redone from the starter + which has already gone to the salon in the general wiring. I just had a terrible collective farm there at one time. I just started picking the wiring after I could not understand why the sorted genes do not give out more than 13 volts and you turn on the stove at all 12, 11 fell
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Video (click to play). |
about relle, how many of ours did not pick up the brushes do not go for a long time 5000 - 6000 go to the junk and still muddy, maybe in our strange city they sell such a gyg
