DIY LED lamp repair

In detail: DIY repair of diode lamps from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Savings and design in lighting have brought cutting-edge technology to nearly every home. Many people change their common base chandeliers for economical LED products. Not everyone knows how to repair an LED lamp on their own, especially what parts it consists of inside. How to use the tool in case of breakdown, where to start the whole process. Let's try to figure out in detail what are the breakdowns in the devices and how to repair some LED chandeliers with our own hands.

Typical breakdowns: partial or complete lack of lighting, short blinking or spontaneous shutdown, failure. Reasons: The temperature has reached above 50 degrees, a break in the contact between the filament itself and the holder, if it is a paid option, and not a lamp one, peeling of the contacts on the board.
The LED is burnt out, partially or completely. Reason: Overvoltage in the network, capacitor burned out (breakdown). Usually breakage occurs in cheap board options.
There are additional reasons leading to the failure of the device, namely: a short circuit in the circuit, incorrect connection to the network, non-observance of the device connection diagram during installation.
Poor soldering of the contacts of the circuit, LEDs to the board, poor fastening of the wires in the base of the lamps. Weak soldering of conductive elements (wires, tires). Reason: Factory defect. The repair of many LED chandeliers with a control panel is carried out for this very reason.

Before repairing the LED light, the fixture must be removed. It will take some tool; thin screwdriver with a flat end, cruciform. If the connection was made using twists, you will need pliers with insulated handles, electrical tape and a multimeter to check the contacts. Tweezers come in handy when working with small parts.

Video (click to play).

You will need a soldering iron with a thin tip and solder (it is advisable to use a special nozzle). A drill with a 2.5 mm drill., It can also come in handy, disconnect the base of the lamp by drilling out the fasteners. Several thin wires 10 cm long.
Attention! It is forbidden to carry out electrical work without a special protected tool!

Chandeliers appeared with a remote control not so long ago. Few people are familiar with their device. Repairing LED ceiling

x chandeliers need to know the design, just in general terms. Let's take a closer look at what it can consist of.

A simple LED chandelier consists of a body, a regulator unit, or a driver. It is used as a voltage rectifier. It contains terminals, or terminal clamps, to which the mains power is connected. Then wires run from the block to the lamps. They can be from one wire, for a regular lamp, up to 12 for a design version of the device.

A more complex version of the product, consists of an antenna, a control unit for the lighting itself, a voltage regulator or several
In multiple blocks carrying out automatic tuning. Raster luminaires can have several drivers and different types of LED elements, lamps. From a specific type of lighting

device depends on checking and repairing components.

Why is it necessary to know or find out the design before
start repairing your LED chandelier. The reason is simple, you need to determine where the control units are located, inside the chandelier or in
the lighting element itself, the lamp. Here we need the same LED chandelier circuit.

Repairing an LED chandelier working without a remote control is easier.There is nothing complicated in it, they are assembled according to the same type: one or more diodes (a compact bridge is possible), electrolytes (capacitors), a pair of resistances (resistors), and a coil with a winding. This is the simplest scheme without protection, there are many options for them, but now we will analyze the simplest scheme.

After removing the lamp, inspect the board for visible defects, broken wires, ohThe absence of such is a good sign.
Remove the shade or decoration around the lamp, unscrew the lighting elements. Examine the base, burnt spots indicate poor contact. If there are any, try cleaning them with a knife.
Repack the terminal blocks, or twists, tighten the screws on all parts. Not finding visible defects, we proceed to inspect the lamps. The version of a block luminaire, where relays and lamps are next to each other on a large board, is considered as repairing the lamp described below.
Do-it-yourself LED chandelier repair begins with determining the location of the breakdown or breakage.

Fix the lamp with a smaller diameter plastic bottle by cutting and inserting the lamp into it.

It is better to supply power with a separate power supply, to the lamp, if it is 12 or 24 volts nominal. All undamaged LEDs in the circuit need to ring the device. But the way is easier, by connecting the lamp to the power supply to carry out simple manipulations

Alternately close (throw a jumper) the contacts of each LED with tweezers or a wire with stripped and tinned contacts.
The lamp will light up when you find (close the contacts) on the burned out LED. If this does not happen, see further down the chain.
Check the board for the cause of burnouts, swelling of capacitors, carefully check the tracks on the regulator board itself. Solder the broken contacts.

You cannot replace the LED with a jumper when there are less than 10 of them in the total circuit, the capacitors will overload, block LEDs will burn out when there are 3 of them in one case. They can be identified by three dark points, inside a yellow or white crystal.

Often the repair of LED chandeliers must be done due to overheating of the matrix itself. First, unscrew the fasteners and visually inspect the inside of the chandelier. Then they carefully try to move the board in place. It is determined whether there is a break in the wires from the control unit, whether the wire is burnt out from overvoltage. If burnt out, solder in place. We check all the details one by one.

Then you will need an original chandelier diagram. Without it, you can only repair the chandelier without a remote control. If there is a remote control unit, the batteries in it are replaced with new elements. LED chandeliers with a control panel are often found; here you will need an exact diagram of the chandelier controller to detect a breakdown.

The chandelier control unit is usually tightly sealed in a shell, and manufacturers draw diagrams on it. Only these are wiring diagrams and lighting elements.

There are also blocks with a collapsible body, then the option is simplified. With a non-collapsible unit, use a tester to call the output signal to the lighting elements (LEDs). In the absence of voltage supply, the reason may be a breakdown of the signal receiver. We disassemble it, visually check the contacts and tracks on the board, the integrity of the parts. If the voltage supply goes to one lighting branch, then there is a breakdown in the control unit, and not in the signal receiver itself.

The burned-out part can be evaporated and called, for a start, all the resistances (see the diagram) by putting the OMa icon on the device. Then the capacitance of the capacitors, since they have designations, polarity and type are also important when checking.

Designation on the diagram

If a discrepancy is found in the denomination, re-solder.

The chandelier control unit is responsible for the intensity and modes of combustion of the LED elements. Violation of one of the circuits (in the plafond version of the lamp) does not disable the unit, possibly a fuse has blown.

But still, check the blocks, if there are any melted spots on them, there is, replace it with a new one. If the wires are incorrectly connected, only the parts in the power supply are lit. The regulator unit is protected against excessive loads. It can be called according to the scheme.

Many models of regulators, drivers and power supplies for LED luminaires come with cooling heatsinks. They have a seat through which the microcircuit or other control element gives off heat. Most lamps have radiators.

Lack of special grease, thermal paste, the cause of overheating of most (up to 15%) boards and blocks. Unscrew and check if it is applied along the plane of the seat.

The thermal paste is applied in a thin layer over the entire surface of the seat, a large amount will only worsen the heat transfer. By screwing an additional thin aluminum plate to the radiator, it is possible to increase the heat transfer, while the installation is carried out without blocking the main air flows passing through it.

As you can see, there is nothing unusual in the repair of LED ceiling chandeliers, no. It is not so difficult to do it yourself. It takes a little patience, a little practice and a tin of knowledge. Of course, the variety of lamps, lamps and all kinds of chandeliers will not make us bored during the renovation process. But in this number of details, the exact diagram of the LED chandelier and, of course, a great desire will help us figure it out.

With a variety of lighting devices on the counters of the country, LEDs remain out of competition due to their efficiency and durability. However, a high-quality product is not always purchased, because in a store you cannot disassemble the goods for inspection. And in this case, it is not a fact that everyone will determine from what parts it is assembled. Lamps burn out, and it becomes expensive to buy new ones. The solution is to repair LED lamps with your own hands. This work is within the power of even a novice home craftsman, and the details are inexpensive. Today we will figure out how to check the lighting device, in what cases the product is repaired and how to do it. Image - DIY repair of diode lamps

LED lighting products have become part of our lives

It is known that LEDs cannot work directly from a 220 V network. To do this, they need additional equipment, which, most often, fails. We will talk about him today. Consider the circuit of an LED driver, without which the operation of the lighting device is impossible. Along the way, we will conduct an educational program for those who do not understand anything in electronics.

The 220V LED lamp driver circuit consists of:

diode bridge;
resistances;
resistors.

The diode bridge serves to rectify the current (converting it from alternating to direct current). On the graph, this looks like a cut-off of a half-wave of a sine wave. Resistances limit current, and capacitors store energy by increasing the frequency. Consider the principle of operation on the circuit of a 220 V LED lamp.

Having understood the principle of operation and the driver circuit, the decision on how to fix a 220V LED lamp will no longer seem difficult. If we talk about high-quality lighting devices, then you should not expect trouble from them. They work for the entire prescribed period and do not fade, although there are "diseases" to which they are also susceptible. Let's talk about how to deal with them.

To make it easier to understand the reasons, we summarize all the data in one common table.

Good to know! Repair of LED lamps is impossible to carry out indefinitely. It is much easier to eliminate negative factors affecting durability and not to purchase cheap products. Savings today will cost you tomorrow. As economist Adam Smith said, "I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things."

Before you repair an LED lamp with your own hands, pay attention to some details that require less labor. Checking the cartridge and the voltage in it is the first thing to do.

Important! Repair of LED lamps requires a multimeter - without it, it will not be possible to ring the driver elements. A soldering station is also required.

A soldering station is required for the repair of LED chandeliers and lighting fixtures. After all, overheating of their elements leads to failure. The heating temperature during soldering should be no higher than 2600, while the soldering iron heats up more. But there is a way out. We use a piece of copper core with a cross section of 4 mm, which is wound around the tip of the soldering iron with a tight spiral. The more you lengthen the sting, the lower its temperature. Convenient if the multimeter has a thermometer function. In this case, it can be adjusted more precisely.

But before you repair LED spotlights, chandeliers or lamps, you need to determine the cause of the failure.

One of the problems that a novice home craftsman faces is how to disassemble an LED light bulb. To do this, you need an awl, solvent and a syringe with a needle. The diffuser of the LED lamp is glued to the body with a sealant that must be removed. Passing carefully along the edge of the diffuser with an awl, inject the solvent with a syringe. After 2 ÷ 3 minutes, lightly twisting, the diffuser is removed.

Checking the disassembled LED bulb. You shouldn't do this - it's dangerous.

Some lighting fixtures are made without gluing with a sealant. In this case, it is enough to turn the diffuser and remove it from the housing.

Having disassembled the lighting device, pay attention to the LED elements. Burned is often identified visually: there are burn marks or black dots on it. Then we change the faulty part and check the functionality. We will describe the replacement in detail in the step-by-step instructions.

If the LED elements are in order, go to the driver. To check the performance of its parts, you need to solder them from the printed circuit board. The value of the resistors (resistances) is indicated on the board, and the parameters of the capacitor are indicated on the case. When dialing with a multimeter in the appropriate modes, there should be no deviations. However, often failed capacitors are determined visually - they swell or burst. The solution is to replace it with a suitable one in terms of technical parameters.

The LED can be ringed with a multimeter without unsoldering from the printed circuit board

Replacing capacitors and resistances, unlike LEDs, is often performed with a conventional soldering iron. In this case, you should be careful not to overheat the nearest contacts and elements.

If you have a soldering station or a hair dryer, this job is simple. It is more difficult to work with a soldering iron, but it is also possible.

Good to know! If there are no working LED elements at hand, you can install a jumper instead of the burnt one. Such a lamp will not work for a long time, but it will be possible to win some time. However, such repairs are made only if the number of elements is more than six. Otherwise, the day is the maximum work of the repair product.

Modern lamps run on SMD LED elements that can be soldered out of an LED strip. But it is worth choosing those that are suitable for technical characteristics. If there are none, it is better to change everything.

Chinese driver - these guys love minimalism

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For the correct choice of LED devices, you need to know not only the general LED characteristics... Information about modern models, electrical circuits of working devices will come in handy. In this article, you will find answers to these and other practical questions.

If the driver consists of smaller SMD components, use a copper wire soldering iron on the tip. A visual inspection revealed a burnt element - we solder it and select the one that matches the marking. No visible damage is more difficult.We'll have to solder all the details and ring them separately. Having found the burnt one, we change it to a workable one and mount the elements in place. It is convenient to use tweezers for this.

Useful advice! Do not remove all elements from the PCB at the same time. They are similar in appearance, you can later confuse the location. It is better to solder the elements one at a time and, after checking, mount them in place.

Repairing an LED tube in the form of a fluorescent lamp is no different from working with a simple

When installing lighting in rooms with high humidity (bathroom or kitchen), stabilizing power supplies are used, which lower the voltage to a safe one (12 or 24 volts). The stabilizer can fail for several reasons. The main ones are excessive load (power consumption of the luminaires) or the wrong choice of the degree of protection of the unit. Such devices are repaired in specialized services. At home, this is unrealistic without the availability of equipment and knowledge in the field of radio electronics. In this case, the power supply unit will have to be replaced.

The power supply for the LEDs looks like this

Very important! All work on replacing the stabilizing LED power supply is carried out with the voltage removed. Do not rely on the switch - it may be incorrectly wired. The voltage is disconnected in the distribution board of the apartment. Remember that touching live parts with your hand is life-threatening.

You need to pay attention to the technical characteristics of the device - the power must exceed the parameters of the lamps that are powered from it. Having disconnected the failed unit, we connect a new one according to the diagram. It can be found in the technical documentation of the device. This is not difficult - all wires are color-coded, and the contacts are letter designation.

Decoding of IP protection degrees for electrical appliances

Plays the role and degree of protection of the device (IP). For a bathroom, the device must be marked at least IP45.

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If the reason for the flickering of the LED lamp is the failure of the capacitor (it needs to be replaced), then periodic blinking when the light is off is easier to solve. The reason for this "behavior" of the luminaire is the backlight-indicator on the switch key.

The capacitor located in the driver circuit accumulates voltage, and when the limit is reached, it gives out a discharge. The key backlight transmits a small amount of electricity, which does not in any way affect incandescent bulbs or "halogens", but this voltage is enough for the capacitor to start accumulating it. At a certain moment, it gives out a discharge to the LEDs, after which it switches back to accumulation. There are two ways to solve this problem:

We take out the key from the switch and turn off the backlight. The method is simple, but indications that add value to the switch are no longer useful.
We disassemble the chandelier and change the phase wire with zero places on each cartridge. The method is more complicated, but it retains the functionality of the switch. In the dark, you can see it well, and this is a plus.

Such a switch can cause the LEDs in the device to flash.

Not only LED lamps, but also CFLs are susceptible to flashing. The device of their PRU (starting-regulating device) works on a similar principle, which allows the capacitor to store energy.

Let's consider an example of a simple LED lamp repair:

A decade ago, such a rapid growth in the popularity of LED lighting for apartments and private houses was not expected.Today you will not meet a person who would not use these economical and bright lamps. The only problem remains in the cost of lighting fixtures - such fixtures cannot be called cheap. What to do if the lamp is out of order? Buy a new one? Not necessary. You can try to repair the lighting fixture. It is precisely the "device", because it is a complex technical device, in contrast to the "Ilyich's lamp". Today we will figure out how to repair LED lamps with our own hands and how difficult it is.

LEDs are the most economical type of lighting - it's hard to argue with that. Such elements are used both in everyday life and in production. Street lighting is gradually moving towards similar energy savings. Light diodes, in addition to efficiency, have another indisputable advantage over other types of lighting devices - they have no competitors in terms of durability. But they cannot work directly from a network with an alternating current of 220 V. This requires a special device called a driver.

The circuit of a 220 V LED lamp includes a device that is compact enough and fits in the base. There is nothing more complicated in the lighting device, however, the driver, performing work to stabilize the voltage, often fails. Burnt-out LEDs are not difficult to replace, it is enough to own a soldering iron at the "just learned" level. But today we will figure out how to repair drivers.

The general principle of operation of LED lamps is as follows. The alternating current of the network enters an electronic device - a driver that stabilizes voltage drops. Direct current is directed to LEDs, which emit the light we see.

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If we simplify such a system, we get a 220 V LED lamp driver circuit, which includes two damping resistors that stabilize the voltage. LEDs are connected in different directions, which protects against reverse voltage. The flicker frequency doubles - from 50 to 100 Hz.

Power in such a circuit is fed through a limiting capacitor to a rectifier (diode bridge), and only then to the elements. We simplify the system. We change one light diode to a rectifier. The lamp works, but the frequency of the current, instead of increasing, decreases by 2 times and becomes equal to 25 Hz, which leads to a sensitive flickering of the lighting fixture. It is harmful to vision, impairs health, increases fatigue and causes headaches.

However, there are LED lamps at a completely different cost. For example, GENILED SDL-KS 80W 07077, power 80 W and color temperature 4700K. Its cost can be surprising. It is equal to 10,200 rubles.

Often the reason for the failure of an LED lamp is improper operation or sudden voltage drops in the network. Let's take a look at the most common ones:

A sharp power surge. LEDs in such a situation will remain intact, but the driver may fail;
Wrong choice of luminaire. If normal ventilation is not provided, the driver overheats, which negatively affects its operation;
Factory defect or falsification of products. If you come across a too cheap lamp of this type on the counter, you should think about how the low price was achieved;
Vibration and shock. They are not terrible for LEDs, but for the driver they can be fatal.

Most often, the capacitor fails (the lamp will stop burning), and the current-limiting resistor (sensitive flickering, up to blinking).In order not to buy new equipment, you need to understand how to repair an LED lamp with your own hands.

Colored LEDs create a unique ambience in the room

The driver, which causes failure in 80% of cases, is not necessarily built into the light bulb. The light source can only consist of LEDs, and the stabilizing device will be built into the lamp or chandelier. However, the remaining 20% should not be discounted. It is necessary to check all the details before proceeding with the repair of the ice lamps.

In the case of a separate driver, everything is simpler. We change the lamp, and if it glows, then the problem is in it, if not, the stabilizer is to blame. The situation with the built-in driver is more complicated.

Now the promised secret. To repair LED lamps with an ordinary soldering iron, you need a piece of copper single-core wire, with a cross section of 4 mm², 10 ÷ 15 cm long. "Scapula". The temperature will also depend on the length. Convenient if the multimeter has a thermometer function. For LED SMD components, which are used in LED lamps, a temperature of 240 ÷ 260 ° C is required.

You can put a jumper here - quickly, but not for long

Some devices are not easy to disassemble. When you try to rotate the top, nothing comes out? Then a solvent comes in handy. We put it into a syringe and carefully pass through the needle along the seam. We leave for 5 minutes, after which we repeat the operation. Usually 2 ÷ 3 procedures are enough. Gently swing the upper part by turning left and right. After removing the cover, we clean off the old sealant and degrease the surfaces. If you plan to use the lamp in a dry environment, you do not need to apply new sealant.

It is not difficult to disassemble the LED lamp, the main thing is that the benefits are

Having figured out how to fix a 220V LED lamp, it makes sense to deal with more complex devices, such as spotlights or chandeliers. Although there is not much difference in the work. Experts say that repairing LED floodlights is even easier, because the drivers and their parts are larger. We subscribe to this opinion. It only seems that such devices are more high-tech and more complex. In fact, having diagrams at hand (they are always contained in the technical documentation of a lighting device), for example, repairing an LED chandelier is quite simple. The same continuity of LEDs, driver details. After - the selection of suitable ones to replace the burned ones.

Important information! If the LED burns out and there is no suitable replacement at hand, you can slightly extend the life of the lighting device. The contacts of the burned-out element are bridged among themselves, and the lamp lights up again. But you should be prepared for the fact that after a short time it will go out again. The LED next to the bridged one will light up. If you continue to install the jumpers, the time between repairs will decrease exponentially.

Several LED lamps will transform the interior beyond recognition, but for the better.

If all the LED lighting in the bathroom goes out at the same time, you should start small. Remove the switch cover and check the voltage supply. If everything is in order, then the problem is in the power supply.

A bathroom is a room with high humidity, in which the use of 220 volt lighting fixtures is unacceptable. For this reason, a 12 volt power supply is installed. The reason that all the lighting stopped burning at once may be the failure of this device or a breakdown of the wiring, which is hardly realistic. You will have to buy such a block. Having dismantled the old block, we look at the technical parameters, purchase a stabilizer with similar characteristics and install it in place.

When working with electrical wiring, you need to be extremely careful. Defeat is dangerous

Important! All work on dismantling and installation of the stabilizing power supply is carried out only with the voltage removed. It is better to turn off the introductory machine. This is the only way to protect yourself from electric shock.

This is a common problem. It happens that people refuse to replace ordinary lighting in an apartment with LED due to the fact that when the light is off, the LEDs blink, in the manner of a stroboscope. There is only one reason for this - the backlight of the switch.

If the indicator is on, it is passing a certain amount of electricity through it, which does not have any effect on conventional lamps. But in the driver of LED lighting devices, there is a capacitor that has the ability to store electricity and then give it out. He then collects this energy "bit by bit", and upon reaching a certain volume gives it in the form of a pulse to the LEDs.

This indicator causes the LEDs to blink.

The problem can be solved very simply - turn off the backlight on the switch. However, blinking due to the indication on the key is a consequence. And what's the reason? There are also no difficulties here. The reason is the incorrect connection of the chandelier holders. It is known that when incandescent lamps are installed, zero goes to the thread of the base, and the phase goes to the center. The LEDs start blinking if this order is violated and the wiring is done incorrectly.

Filament lamps are new to the market. They cannot be repaired.

LED lighting continues to grow in popularity. But even with a decrease in prices for lighting devices based on them, they remain expensive. And why overpay if you can repair a light bulb or lamp with your own hands. You don't even need to purchase parts for this. You just don’t need to throw out those that are out of order. Then from two or three it will be possible to collect one worker.

We hope the information presented in our article will help the reader to save money on the purchase of lighting equipment. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the discussion below. And finally, we suggest watching a useful video on the topic:

With the advent of LED technology, lighting systems have taken to a whole new level. Economical, environmentally friendly and electrically safe devices are used everywhere today - they have replaced the standard "Ilyich lamps" and the "housekeepers" that have gained popularity. The former have long been outdated from a moral point of view, the latter are extremely hazardous to health due to the mercury vapor contained inside.

Despite the long service life, even such devices fail over time. In some situations, expensive repair of LED lamps can be done independently, at home, which we will consider further.

Before disassembling a failed LED lamp into its component parts, be sure to study its structure and principle of operation. Standard equipment of this type includes an electronic power supply board, a light filter and a housing with a base. Cheaper models use conventional capacitors instead of current and voltage limiters.

One lamp can have several dozen LEDs that are connected in series or in parallel. In the second case, the design turns out to be expensive (a separate resistor is connected to each led diode or group), so not everyone can afford it.

The principle of operation of an LED is almost identical to a semiconductor element. The current between the anode and cathode travels in a straight line, which leads to the formation of a glow. Each LED individually is characterized by a minimum power, which is why several pieces are used at once. To create the desired luminous flux, a phosphor coating is used, which transforms the light into a spectrum visible to the human eye.

High-quality models contain a high-tech driver that performs the function of a converter along with a diode group. The primary voltage goes to a transformer that reduces the characteristics of the current. At the output of the element, we get the constant current necessary to power the led diodes. In order to reduce ripple in the circuit, an auxiliary capacitor is used.

Despite the numerous varieties, differences in devices, the number of LEDs used, all lighting devices of this type are characterized by the same design, which simplifies their maintenance.

There are several possible malfunctions of LED devices, which is associated with their albeit similar, but rather complex design. The most common breakdowns among the rest are accompanied by the following points:

complete absence of glow;
periodic lack of lighting;
short-term flickering;
turning off the light at random moments;
damage to a light bulb or LED.

There are even more reasons for the appearance of breakdowns. The most common of them are the following:

Violation of the rules and recommendations for the operation of LED devices. When buying a new lamp, be sure to study the conditions for its operation, prescribed in the technical manual. If you ignore any rule, the probability of breakdowns increases several times.
Overheating of equipment. By themselves, the LEDs practically do not heat up in operation, but if the temperature exceeds the declared 50-60 degrees, then the filament, holder or peeling of contacts on the electronic board may occur. Overheating sometimes occurs due to the fact that a luminaire not intended for these purposes is installed inside the stretch ceiling. This prevents it from cooling naturally.
Burnout led diode - full or partial. This can lead to high voltage surges in the network or a burnout of the capacitor.

Important! The last breakdown is relevant for cheap devices that use low-quality boards.

If you go deeper, then you can identify several other, more rare, but no less interesting reasons, due to which the LED lamp may not work:

technical violations when connecting to the power supply;
short circuit;
incorrect installation of equipment;
errors in the construction of elements in the connection diagram;
poor quality product - when trying to save money, do not forget that you are buying a "pig in a poke".

In such devices, the contacts may be initially poorly soldered, or a cheap capacitor is used instead of the driver. This is a so-called manufacturing defect.

LED ceiling lights with a remote control often fail due to factory defects. Thus, in order to carry out repairs, it is important to correctly establish not only the breakdown, but also the cause of its occurrence.

To carry out high-quality repairs that guarantee the serviceability of the product and its long-term operation in the future, painstaking preparation is required. First, dismantle the chandelier, wall lamp. In the case of table lamps, simply unplug them from the mains supply. In the future, some tools and materials will come in handy, including a screwdriver, pliers, electrical tape, a knife. Pliers or pliers come in handy if the device body is connected using special twists. Use a multimeter to check the contacts.

Since LEDs are small in size, tweezers are useful for manipulating them. Subsequently, if an open circuit is detected or an element needs to be replaced, a soldering iron may be required. In order to replace LED diodes, use a drill with a variety of drills.

Do not forget that each tool must be electrically insulated - it is forbidden to work with pliers or pliers with bare metal handles.

Remote control LED pendant lights are relatively new. Their device is not familiar to everyone, so we will briefly consider the design of the devices.

In the simplest configuration, an LED chandelier consists of a body (metal, plastic, glass), a block with a regulator (driver). The last element is used as a voltage rectifier; terminals and clamps are placed on it, to which power is supplied from the industrial network. The power supply is connected to the lamps with wires.

In complex chandeliers, an antenna, a control unit, a regulator (several units) are used, which is necessary for automatic tuning. Raster lighting fixtures contain several drivers and LED lamps of various kinds. The sequence of repairs directly depends on the specific type of luminaire.

Study the design of the device using the instructions supplied with it to figure out where the control units are. They can be installed both inside and outside the product.

Repairing a chandelier without a remote control is much easier. In such a device, a diode or diode bridge with electrolytes and resistors is installed. There is also a coil with winding to reduce ripple.

To properly repair your outdoor or indoor luminaire, follow the step-by-step instructions:

Remove the device from the ceiling or wall and remove the enclosure cover.
Examine the electronic circuit to make out visible defects (or confirm their absence). These include wire breaks.
Remove shade and other decorative hardware ornaments, and unscrew LED bulbs, if used.
Examine the plinth for burnt spots. You can use a regular knife for stripping.
Perform the twisting again, tighten all the screws on the elements that are attached to the board. If there are no visible defects, examine the lamp directly.

Let's take a look at the easiest method to test an LED circuit. First, secure the lamp using a cut plastic bottle with a smaller diameter. A lamp is inserted into it. To supply power, use the auxiliary power supply (in the case of a 12 or 24 V device).

Instead of ringing each LED diode in the circuit, you can resort to a simpler method. Place a jumper between the pins of each diode in turn using tweezers. If there is no jumper, then take any wire, having previously stripped both ends and tinned the contacts.

It is important that the lamp is connected to the network at this moment. As soon as you close the contacts on the burned out LED, the device will light up. If this does not happen, then it is possible that more than one diode has burned out.

Continue visual inspection of the circuit and look for burnout spots, swollen capacitors, examine each track on the board. Solder if any broken contacts are found. If the circuit consists of 10 or less elements, then in no case replace the burned out LED with a wire or a jumper. This can overload the coils and burn out diodes.

Most often, the reason for the breakdown of a chandelier with a remote control is overheating of the matrix. In such a situation, repairs are carried out as follows:

Remove and disassemble the chandelier.
Find out the cause of the breakdown - find the burned out elements.
If you need to replace components and perform soldering, be sure to study the device diagram attached to the warranty card.

The controller, antenna or control unit may burn out. In this case, a banal replacement of a failed product is required.

Most LED lighting fixtures come with heat sinks. The presence of this element is a sign of the high quality of the device. In these products, a special seat is allocated, and a radiator is used to remove heat. The thermal paste needs to be replaced periodically.If this is not done, then over time the heatsink will lose its efficiency and the board or block will burn out. Disassemble the device and make sure the thermal grease is applied to both planes of the seat.If necessary, apply a thin layer of special grease yourself to the entire surface of the seat. Too much thermal paste affects heat transfer as negatively as its absence. To increase the heat output, you can screw an additional aluminum plate to the radiator, making sure that it does not block the main airflow.

Video (click to play).

Do-it-yourself high-quality repair of LED light sources is possible subject to compliance with safety rules and the presence of a structural diagram of the electrical appliance. The article described in detail the main causes and types of malfunctions, and gave recommendations for their search and elimination.