Details: DIY Stayer diesel repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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I disassembled the radiator, changed the rubber bands, all this resulted in just extra work, sorry for the time spent, because. I had to shoot several times, first one flowed, then another. Apparently, it was just his time to go to the dump. Result - I ordered a radiator from Albert, in my opinion they themselves grind the giblets out of stainless steel. Half a year the flight is normal.
I disassembled the radiator, changed the rubber bands, all this resulted in just extra work, sorry for the time spent, because. I had to shoot several times, first one flowed, then another. Apparently, it was just his time to go to the dump. Result - I ordered a radiator from Albert, in my opinion they themselves grind the giblets out of stainless steel. Half a year the flight is normal.
leakage of rubber bands - this is not considered a breakdown at all, the accordion itself is bursting
I disassembled the radiator, changed the rubber bands, all this resulted in just extra work, sorry for the time spent, because. I had to shoot several times, first one flowed, then another. Apparently, it was just his time to go to the dump. Result - I ordered a radiator from Albert, in my opinion they themselves grind the giblets out of stainless steel. Half a year the flight is normal.
Is there a way to test a radiator without replacing it?
If the radiator is found to be cracked. You can also order from Albert, how to do it? On sale, it seems only luminescent are.
Is there a way to test a radiator without replacing it?
I myself used to work on a collective farm, this is how it turned out
Post has been edited kolobok: 18 January 2014 - 18:56
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I support! Knowing Albert personally. He has great service and smart guys. And he himself is an extremely pleasant and charming person. And he buys spare parts cheaper than anyone else by bank transfer. You will not regret. and will help by mail. territorially - the city of Gorky. Nizhny Novgorod i.e.
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Video (click to play). |
I support! Knowing Albert personally. He has great service and smart guys. And he himself is an extremely pleasant and charming person. And he buys spare parts cheaper than anyone else by bank transfer. You will not regret. and will help by mail. territorially - the city of Gorky. Nizhny Novgorod i.e.
and I know where Albert is original stocked
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I need advice, I disassembled the motor, the liners are worn, they need to be replaced, and the main bearing journals on the knee are scratched. there are different markings on the connecting rod bearings, two 6813, two 1297, and four 8011. Why are they different, and how to select repair ones if the knee is sharpened? indigenous all with one marking 1005170 and 1005171, is it repair, or is it a denomination yet?
I need advice, I disassembled the motor, the liners are worn, they need to be replaced, and the main bearing journals on the knee are scratched. there are different markings on the connecting rod bearings, two 6813, two 1297, and four 8011. Why are they different, and how to select repair ones if the knee is sharpened? indigenous all with one marking 1005170 and 1005171, is it repair, or is it a denomination yet?
there are no repair inserts for Shtaer, respectively, and there is no point in sharpening the shaft
Post has been edited kolobok: 28 February 2014 - 19:39
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there are no repair inserts for Shtaer, respectively, and there is no point in sharpening the shaft
I agree! there is only gas and more serious
Ksenafontov You shouldn't have taken them off and didn't remember what and where it was. The indigenous are all the same. But the connecting rods are made with eccentricity, that is, of different thicknesses. each connecting rod must have 2 different liners. on one connecting rod there must not be 2 identical ones! do you understand? the connecting rod will either clamp or dangle. This is done to fine-tune the piston clearance.
Fill in the profile where you live.
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They sell repair inserts, only how to install them now, how to measure this gap. in general, why is this necessary, the first time I see such a motor.
I live in the Tula region, Suvorov city. I don’t know how to fill in the profile.
in the internet and there are videos and books are sold.
Well, since you are Tula means you will collect)
You will also need a torque wrench
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there is a key, I don’t understand how to be with inserts. just buy a repair and that's it?
there are no remontryh they lie to you) after the repair I will have the inserts. we will agree with practically no wear)
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Well, the new 1500 is a kit. but what about the size. what where to put?
I hope to figure it out with the indigenous, with the grooves in the block, integral in the caps. but the connecting rod .. I have 2172685 in the connecting rods and 2172684 in the caps. all 4 stand like that.
Post has been edited by MichaelZ: 01 March 2014 - 16:00
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I ordered a kit, I'll see which ones come. if it is jammed or dangling, then it is easier to throw out this motor and put in mersodiesel, which can be easily repaired without problems.
If you don't remember which ones they stood where, put the thin one in the connecting rod, the thick one in the lid
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sent a set of earbuds. connecting rods are all the same size. put and not bother?
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Engine diagnostics from 1 500,00 rub.
Generator repair 3 000,00 rub.
Replacement of the temperature sensor 350,00 rub.
Replacing the servo magnet RUB 2,800.00
Replacing the servo magnet sensor 3 500,00 rub.
Replacement of unit injectors for (4pcs) 5,000.00 rub.
Replacement of pump injectors with adjustment for (1pc) 1,500.00 rub.
Replacement of glow plugs from 3 000,00 rub.
Replacing the engine control unit 400.00r.
Valve adjustment RUB 1,500.00
Checking the timing belt tension 600.00r.
Replacement of rockers for (1pc) 1,000.00 rubles.
Replacement of the vacuum pump RUB 1,500.00
Replacement of the valve clearance compensator 1 800,00 rub.
Replacement of the frame seal 30,000.00 rub.
Oil separator replacement 450,00 rub.
Replacing the fuel filter 800,00 rub.
Replacement of the auxiliary belt 650,00 rub.
Replacement of the tensioning mechanism of the auxiliary belt 1 000,00 rub.
Replacing the intermediate roller 600,00 rub.
Replacement of the timing belt tensioner 2 500,00 rub.
Replacing the valve cover gasket 700,00 rub.
Replacing the electrical wiring in the engine compartment 5,000.00 rub.
Replacing the timing belt (setting the injection timing, with / at the radiator) 5 500,00 rub.
Replacing the timing roller with the belt removed 500,00 rub.
Replacing the timing belt or TO-2 (with adjustment and diagnostics) 9,000.00 rub.
Replacing the pump (setting the injection timing, c / a radiator) 6,000.00 rub.
Replacing the camshaft (with / at the timing belt, setting the injection timing, adjusting the valves, with / at the radiator.) 12,000.00 rub.
TO-1 (valve adjustment, pump-injector stroke adjustment, injection timing, belt tension check, engine diagnostics.) 6,000.00 rub.
Checking the tightness of the pump nozzle cups 1 000,00 rub.
Replacement of pump-injector glasses 20 000,00 rub.
Overhaul of the engine 30 000,00 rub.
Diagnostics of the fuel system 500,00 rub.
Replacement of the check valve 600,00 rub.
Adjustment of the TKR bypass valve 1 000,00 rub.
Reprogramming the control unit 4,000.00 rub.
Repair of electrical wiring of the relay (jumper) RUB 1,500.00
Repair of the electric wiring of the servo magnet sensor 1 000,00 rub.
Replacement of the power steering pump 1 800,00 rub.
Changing the oil in the engine with flushing 850,00 rub.
Camshaft housing broach 500,00 rub.
C / a exhaust manifold 2 800,00 rub.
Oil radiator - flush-mounted with replacement of the seal 5000.00
Installation of an additional filter for cleaning fuel + filter on sat 5500
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Message stasurik »22 Mar 2012, 17:51
Message zerocoolbtr »22 Mar 2012, 17:56
Message stasurik »22 Mar 2012, 18:03
Damn how to tell you. I honestly have a full oak in the engines. I only changed the oil and the filter there. So everything worked smoothly. The box is not adapted for this engine. There are enough relics and few gears. As a rule, the bearing of the input shaft flew. Was hesitant to sort out. Well, that's all. Read above for minor breakdowns. Maybe there is a friend who fumbles in the engines let him look, listen.
Added after 1 minute 1 second:
Well, the clutch also changed. But also myself. There is nothing complicated.
You drive quieter, you don't owe anyone.
Message zerocoolbtr »22 Mar 2012, 18:09
stasurik wrote: Damn how to tell you. I honestly have a full oak in the engines. I only changed the oil and the filter there. So everything worked smoothly. The box is not adapted for this engine. There are enough relics and few gears. As a rule, the bearing of the input shaft flew.Was hesitant to sort out. Well, that's all. Read above for minor breakdowns. Maybe there is a friend who fumbles in the engines let him look, listen.
Added after 1 minute 1 second:
Well, the clutch also changed. But also myself. There is nothing complicated.
Engine GAZ-560 "Steyer"
Until now in Russia for a light diesel engine GAZ-560 Steyer (STEYR) are mistrustful. There are several reasons. Here is the unstable quality of fuel, especially in the rural outback, the unpreparedness of domestic service for maintenance and repair complex diesel equipment, high cost of spare parts and noise and vibration that seem to be organic to a diesel engine.
From abroad, diesel cars are being transported a little, but with the production of our own it is simply a disaster. Therefore, the Gorky Automobile Plant, which manufactured under the license of an Austrian company "STEYR" about 8000 diesels, turned out to be a kind of national record holder. Engine GAZ-560 Steyer successfully registered under the hood of Nizhny Novgorod cars. The diesel fuel consumption of the Volga is about 8 liters, and that of the Gazelle is about 12 liters / 100 km. Noises and vibrations are produced by a diesel engine only at idle, and even at a speed of 50 km / h, few will be able to determine the type of engine from the passenger compartment.
One of the features diesel GAZ 560 Steyer - you cannot warm it up at low loads and idling. In winter, in the parking lot in the twenty-degree frost, it does not gain above 40-50 ° C, which is why it is cool in the car. However, in motion, heating the interior is not worse than with a gasoline engine. If diesel GAZ-560 after parking in the cold, it started normally, then due to frozen fuel it will no longer stop: channels for supplying and removing fuel from pump injectors pass in a monoblock next to the cooling jacket. After some time, the "return" with a flow rate of up to 100 l / h heats the tank to a positive temperature. If the battery and glow plugs are in good working order, the fuel in the tank is winter, then with 5W40 oil, starting up to minus 30 ° C is not a problem. Even colder? We'll have to additionally insulate the engine compartment so that the crankcase ventilation oil separator does not freeze. Otherwise, oil will squeeze out through the seals, dipstick, oil filler neck and turbocharger.
Spending on a purchase diesel-Steyer, it is a sin to save on the quality of fuel and oil. At dubious gas stations, instead of diesel fuel, they can also sell boiler and furnace fuel - at first glance, you cannot distinguish it. What then can we say about the cetane number, flash point, osmolality and other important characteristics! Delayed ignition and late combustion lead to local overheating and cracking of the combustion chamber in the piston. Meanwhile, the cetane number is no less important for a diesel engine than the octane number for a gasoline engine. If not more! After all, low-octane gasoline gives itself out immediately - with detonation knocks, and sometimes they learn about the low quality of diesel fuel with a delay. Resin settling on a fine mesh that protects from dirt precision plunger pairs of unit-injectors of the engine STEYR, creates additional resistance for filling them with fuel. Because of this, the pressure at the outlet from the nozzle decreases, the fuel spray deteriorates, and the plunger pair wears out.
The first sign of such wear (photo 1) is a difficult start of a hot engine. In an amicable way, then the nozzles need to be changed. However, they are expensive, about 7,500 rubles. And this operation is more complicated than replacing candles. Therefore, if a cold engine starts up well and there are no serious remarks about its power and efficiency, the life of the injectors can be extended by another 20-30 thousand km. To do this, simply "cheat" the control program. Starting a cold and hot engine occurs according to different algorithms, "hardwired" into the memory of the control unit. The cold one is started up, increasing the cyclic fuel supply by 3-4 times. To start up hot with worn out nozzles, you can use the “cold” settings.
To do this, remove the terminals from the coolant temperature sensors (photo2) and air temperature (photo3). The unit now calculates the cycle feeds as for 20 ° C.If the motor starts normally at the same time, you can make such a deception permanent by bringing the wires from the sensors to the toggle switch. But nothing lasts forever: in an engine with worn out injectors, fuel consumption will eventually start to rise, power will drop, and replacement with new ones will become inevitable.
When the diesel engine is running GAZ-560 Steyer fuel at a pressure of about 1.5 bar is constantly pumped through the unit nozzle, not only filling the space above the plunger well, but also the cooling nozzle. The booster pump is responsible for this - it is next to the tank (photo 4). If this pump fails, the diesel continues to work somehow, the fuel is supplied to the injector due to the vacuum created during the upward stroke of the plunger (suction). But for normal engine operation GAZ-560 Steyer This is not enough. Lack of fuel causes wear on the plunger pair. Having driven 100-150 km in this mode, get ready to replace all unit injectors.
Engine GAZ-560 equipped with a turbocharger (photo 5), very demanding on the quality of engine oil - its impeller makes more than 100,000 rpm. In this case, the oil heats up above 150 ° C. Poor quality quickly loses its properties, which leads to premature wear of not only the turbocharger, but also the engine STEYR.
There are a few rules to keep in mind to help keep your engine longevity. On a cold one, you cannot accelerate sharply, since thick oil does not go well to the bearings of the turbocharger. By stopping the engine immediately after working at full load, we stop the oil supply to the turbocharger bearings. GAZ-560that has not yet stopped. Several such stops - and it will require replacement. It is very important to monitor the tightness of the turbine oil line. Even a small oil leak is unacceptable here, as well as short-term dry operation.
In the turbine GAZ-560 there is a valve that maintains the maximum filling of the cylinders in the entire range of revolutions. If the valve opens early - the torque will drop “at the bottom”, with late opening - at the nominal mode. Therefore, if the acceleration of the car seems too sluggish, check the boost pressure. A diagnostic device, for example ASKAN-8 (photo6), will help in this. At maximum idle speed, the pressure should be at least 1.75-1.8 bar, and at full load - 2 bar. Adjust it by changing the length of the valve rod. By shortening it (increasing the spring preload), we increase the boost pressure. Due to the subsidence of the spring during operation, the boost pressure may decrease, therefore, when diagnosing it after 40-60 thousand km, it is worth checking it. Some engines GAZ-560 equipped with a charge air cooler (photo 7). With it, the power increases by 15 liters. sec., but the increase in torque from 200 to 250 N.m with a decrease in the corresponding speed from 2300 to 1800-2000 rpm is even more valuable. When installing the cooler on your own, the control unit must be reprogrammed or changed to GAZ-5601.
When the voltage in the on-board network drops to 10 V, the control electronics will begin to malfunction, and at 7 V the motor will completely stall. The breakdown of the crankshaft speed sensor is also manifested. It is located at the rear right on the camshaft housing (photo 8). To test the sensor, remove it from the motor and connect it to a low voltage tester. It remains to hold a massive steel object near the sensor magnet: if the sensor is working properly, the tester needle will deviate. When the engine suddenly stalls, and after turning off and on the "ignition" again works, the reason is most likely in the rail position sensor. It is fixed on an electromagnet installed on the left of the camshaft housing (photo 9). Its nominal resistance is 1.12 ± 0.04 Ohm.
If the “gas-pedal” fails (photo 10), the car should not go, but. if you really need to - maybe. The engine will run at idle speed, but maintain these rpm under load. You should get under way very smoothly.On a flat road, you can even get to fifth gear. Breakage of the coolant and air temperature sensors are not fatal to the engine, although it will go out of optimal mode. Therefore, it is worth checking their resistance according to the data in Table. 1 and 2. Failure of the boost pressure sensor located on the bulkhead is immediately noticeable (photo 11) - Steyer engine loses half the power.
To find out which sensor or actuator is floundering, connect a diagnostic device to the block (photo 12). If it is not there, the error can be “calculated” by jumpering pins 1 and 2 in the block. (The pin numbers are on the back of the block, and the fault codes are in the engine manual.)
Despite the fact that diesels GAZ-560 Steyer (STEYR) produced not so long ago, some motors have run 600 thousand km. And this is not the limit. The main thing in their longevity is timely maintenance and routine maintenance.
What about the renovation suitability.
If the parts break down are on sale?
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Practice is higher than (theoretical) knowledge, because it has not only the dignity of universality, but also the immediacy of reality (V.I. Lenin, Poln. Sobr. Soch., Vol. 29, p. 195)
G. About complete (this 560). Overhaul of this engine THIS IS A FULL F ... made on the principle of a condom-used and in the trash.
if there is no choice (another diesel), then it is better to leave the petrol one.
Texas_Ranger wrote:
This is the most amazing motor in terms of maintainability.
G. About complete (this 560). Overhaul of this engine THIS IS A FULL F ... made on the principle of a condom-used and in the trash.
if there is no choice (another diesel), then it is better to leave the petrol one.
Texas_Ranger wrote:
This is the most amazing motor in terms of maintainability.
A year ago when I bought UAZ There was a choice of GAZ 560 or Andoria.
So I have a friend who has been living for ten years in Germany
works in a car repair shop, so I phoned him and this is what he told me. GAZ 560, when he was a stater in Europe, was never installed on a single car, they tried to somehow adapt it to small boats, but also did not take root. it is not clear to us in Russia.
Personally, I chose Andoria and have no regrets.
Hi guys. I have been using my Shtaer on the UAZ for more than three years. (Gaikin is in the know, only he hasn’t gained experience). There were no problems, even thoughts of a breakdown did not arise, although I went to Kirov and closer. It is NOT NECESSARY to repair it, unlike other motors, which is so fond of especially dirty comrades with working out under the nails (although I myself am a class 1 mechanic with great experience). He came to the garage, started it and drove off, as in a NORMAL car. Shtaer departs from his 300-600 thousand. Alternatively, you can buy the 50th time repaired engine of the German or Japanese car industry with full confidence that you will have it repaired 51 times. Good luck to all.
Stayer with a range of 300 thousand km does not exist in nature.
But both finished on Sobols one withstood 82 thousand hours. other 67 thous. km. only yesterday I saw a mechanic in the shop in the conditions of a regional car service, they cannot be repaired. And on the UAZ, the operating conditions will probably be tougher.
What about the renovation suitability.
If the parts break down are on sale?
This is the most amazing motor in terms of maintainability. I don’t know how it is with the availability of spare parts (consumables, in theory, are an affordable thing), but the design is just quiet horror:
Somewhere I read an article that this engine was divided by the order of Mercedes. But either they gave little money, or something else, in general, the developer and the customer quarreled, and, like, in order not to completely overwhelm the project (or maybe in revenge), Shtaer made such an engine, like fuck with him yourself.
Driver's diagnostic device ASKAN-M for GAZ-560 (STEYR)
Driver's diagnostic device - route controller ASKAN-M STEYR is intended for diagnostics of control systems of diesel engines GAZ-560 (STEYR) of GAZ vehicles.
monitor the current fuel consumption
display engine parameters: rpm, coolant temperature, etc.
show malfunctions of the engine management system
display the passport data of the engine control controller
Specifications:
The supply voltage in the vehicle's on-board network is from 8 to 16V.
The consumed current from the vehicle's on-board network is not more than 100 mA.
Weight 160 g.
Overall dimensions 112x58x22 mm.
Ambient temperature from -20 ° С to + 60 ° С
Relative air humidity up to 90% at a temperature of + 40 ° С
ASKAN-M device.
The ASKAN-M device consists of a microprocessor with built-in program and data memory, a two-line 16-character LCD display with backlight, a buzzer, 4 control buttons and a two-color LED to indicate operating modes.
ASKAN-M is made in a plastic shock-resistant case, equipped with a communication cable with a car diagnostics block.
Using the cursor buttons, you can select the following functions of the device:
FAULTS - display of current faults
PARAMETERS - display of physical and design parameters of the engine
FUEL CONSUMPTION - displays hourly or travel fuel consumption
MOTOR HOURS - display of engine running time in different modes
PASSPORT - display of passport data
SPEED CORRECTION - speed correction
FLOW CORRECTION - flow correction
Function CURRENT FAULTS.
The driver's instrument displays fault codes, if any. The indication on the display of the device looks as follows:
Current aa / bb low
Oil pressure
where "aa" is the total number of detected faults
"Bb" - the number of the malfunction in the order of detection
"Low" - type of malfunction
"Oil pressure" - faulty unit or parameter
All faults can be viewed using the cursor keys and reset if necessary.
PARAMETERS function.
The following parameters can be displayed using the cursor keys:
Revolutions (rpm) - engine rotation speed
Gas pedal - position of the gas pedal
Quantity of injected fuel (mm3) - amount of injected fuel
Boost pressure (mbar) - Boost pressure
Coolant temperature (deg. C) - coolant temperature
Temperature. air (deg. C) - charge air temperature
Voltage onboard network (Volt) - onboard voltage
Rail position (mm) - actual rail position in mm
Calculate pos. laths (mm) - calculated position of the lath in mm
Actual position staffs (cnt) - the actual position of the staff in cu.
Zero. pos. laths (cnt) - zero position of the lath in cu.
Back. cycle. feed (mm3) - preset cyclic fuel feed
Calc. cycle. feed (mm3) - calculated cyclic fuel feed
Max. cycle. feed (mm3) - maximum cycle fuel supply
Instant. revolutions (rpm) - instantaneous engine speed
Average. boost (mm3) - average boost
Speed (km / h) - vehicle speed
FUEL CONSUMPTION function.
The following fuel consumption data can be displayed using the cursor buttons:
Hour Fuel Consumption (l / h) - hourly fuel consumption
Travel fuel consumption (l / 100km) - travel (instant) fuel consumption
Amount. fuel consumption (liter) - fuel consumption meter for the distance traveled
Average fuel consumption (l / 100km) - average fuel consumption for the distance traveled
Distance traveled (km) - distance traveled distance counter
Time in motion (hour: min: sec) - time counter for the distance traveled while the vehicle is in motion
Average speed (km / h) - average speed on a segment of the covered distance
Travel time (hour: min: sec) - time counter for the distance traveled
MOTOR HOURS function
Using the cursor buttons, you can display the engine running time at different engine operating modes:
Until now, in Russia, a light diesel engine is treated with distrust. There are several reasons. Here is the unstable quality of fuel, especially in the rural outback, the unpreparedness of the domestic service to service complex diesel equipment, the high price of spare parts and the noise and vibrations that seem to be organic to a diesel engine.
From abroad, diesel cars are being transported a little, but with the production of our own it is simply a disaster.Therefore, the Gorky Automobile Plant, which manufactured about 8000 diesel engines under the license of the Austrian company Steyr, turned out to be a kind of national record holder. The GAZ-560 engine was successfully registered under the hood of Nizhny Novgorod cars. The diesel fuel consumption of the Volga is about 8 liters, and that of the Gazelle is about 12 liters / 100 km. Noises and vibrations are produced by a diesel engine only at idle, and even at a speed of 50 km / h, few will be able to determine the type of engine from the passenger compartment.
One of the features of a diesel engine is that you cannot warm it up at low loads and idling. In winter, in the parking lot in the twenty-degree frost, it does not gain above 40-50 ° C, which is why it is cool in the car. However, in motion, heating the interior is not worse than with a gasoline engine. If the diesel engine starts up normally after being parked in the cold, it will not stop because of the frozen fuel: the channels for supplying and removing fuel from the unit injectors pass in a monoblock next to the cooling jacket. After some time, the "return" with a flow rate of up to 100 l / h heats the tank to a positive temperature. If the battery and glow plugs are in good working order, the fuel in the tank is winter, then with 5W40 oil, starting up to minus 30 ° C is not a problem. Even colder? We'll have to additionally insulate the engine compartment so that the crankcase ventilation oil separator does not freeze. Otherwise, oil will squeeze out through the seals, dipstick, oil filler neck and turbocharger.
Having spent on the purchase of a diesel engine, it is a sin to save on the quality of fuel and oil. At dubious gas stations, instead of diesel fuel, they can also sell boiler and furnace fuel - at first glance, you cannot distinguish it. What then can we say about the cetane number, flash point, osmolality and other important characteristics! Delayed ignition and late combustion lead to local overheating and cracking of the combustion chamber in the piston. Meanwhile, the cetane number is no less important for a diesel engine than the octane number for a gasoline engine. If not more! After all, low-octane gasoline gives itself out immediately - with detonation knocks, and sometimes they learn about the low quality of diesel fuel with a delay. Resin, settling on a fine mesh, which protects precision plunger pairs of unit injectors from dirt, creates additional resistance for filling them with fuel. Because of this, the pressure at the outlet from the nozzle decreases, the fuel spray deteriorates, and the plunger pair wears out.
The first sign of such wear is difficult starting of a hot engine. In an amicable way, then the nozzles need to be changed. However, they are expensive, about 15,000 rubles. (photo 1). And this operation is more complicated than replacing candles. Therefore, if a cold engine starts up well and there are no serious remarks about its power and efficiency, the life of the injectors can be extended by another 20-30 thousand km. To do this, simply "cheat" the control program. Starting a cold and hot engine occurs according to different algorithms, "hardwired" into the memory of the control unit. The cold one is started up, increasing the cyclic fuel supply by 3-4 times. To start up hot with worn out nozzles, you can use the “cold” settings. To do this, remove the terminals from the coolant temperature sensors (photo 2) and air temperature (photo 3). The unit now calculates the cycle feeds as for 20 ° C. If the motor starts normally at the same time, you can make such a deception permanent by bringing the wires from the sensors to the toggle switch. But nothing lasts forever: in an engine with worn out injectors, fuel consumption will eventually start to rise, power will drop, and replacement with new ones will become inevitable.
A breakdown of one unit injector is immediately noticeable due to uneven engine idling. It is easy to identify the faulty one. Having started up the cold engine, in the first seconds we feel the exhaust manifold pipes - the idle one is colder. On a heated one - it's hot everywhere, so this technique will cause more burns than good. There is no need for urgent replacement on the way.With a faulty injector, you can drive a couple of hundred kilometers without harm to the engine, but you should not overload it. Better to go in low gears, keeping the revs at 3000 rpm.
When the GAZ-560 (STEYR) engine is running, fuel is constantly pumped through the pump nozzle at a pressure of about 1.5 bar, not only filling the space above the plunger well, but also the cooling nozzle. The booster pump is responsible for this - it is next to the tank (photo 4). If this pump fails, the diesel continues to work somehow, the fuel is supplied to the injector due to the vacuum created during the upward stroke of the plunger (suction). But this is not enough for normal engine operation. Lack of fuel causes wear on the plunger pair. Having driven 100-150 km in this mode, get ready to replace all unit injectors.
The GAZ-560 engine is equipped with a turbocharger (photo 5), which is very demanding on the quality of engine oil - its impeller makes more than 100,000 rpm. In this case, the oil heats up above 150 ° C. Poor quality quickly loses its properties, which leads to premature wear of not only the turbocharger, but also the engine.
It is worth remembering a few rules that contribute to the longevity of the motor. On a cold one, you cannot accelerate sharply, since thick oil does not go well to the bearings of the turbocharger. By stopping the engine immediately after working at full load, we stop the oil supply to the bearings of the turbocharger, which has not yet had time to stop. Several such stops - and it will require replacement. It is very important to monitor the tightness of the turbine oil line. Even a small oil leak is unacceptable here, as well as short-term dry operation.
The turbine has a valve that maintains maximum cylinder filling throughout the entire rpm range. If the valve opens early - the torque will drop “at the bottom”, with late opening - at the nominal mode. Therefore, if the acceleration of the car seems too sluggish, check the boost pressure. A diagnostic device, for example ASKAN-8 (photo 6), will help in this. At maximum idle speed, the pressure should be at least 1.75-1.8 bar, and at full load - 2 bar. Adjust it by changing the length of the valve rod. By shortening it (increasing the spring preload), we increase the boost pressure. Due to the subsidence of the spring during operation, the boost pressure may decrease, therefore, when diagnosing it after 40-60 thousand km, it is worth checking it.
Some GAZ-560 (STEYR) engines are equipped with a charge air cooler (photo 7). With it, the power increases by 15 liters. sec., but the increase in torque from 200 to 250 N.m with a decrease in the corresponding speed from 2300 to 1800-2000 rpm is even more valuable. When installing the cooler on your own, the control unit must be reprogrammed or changed to GAZ-5601.
When the voltage in the on-board network drops to 10 V, the control electronics will begin to malfunction, and at 7 V the motor will completely stall. The breakdown of the crankshaft speed sensor is also manifested. It is located at the rear right on the camshaft housing (photo 8). To test the sensor, remove it from the motor and connect it to a low voltage tester. It remains to hold a massive steel object near the sensor magnet: if the sensor is working properly, the tester needle will deviate. When the engine suddenly stalls, and after turning off and on the "ignition" again works, the reason is most likely in the rail position sensor. It is fixed on an electromagnet installed on the left of the camshaft housing (photo 9). Its nominal resistance is 1.12 ± 0.04 Ohm.
If the “gas-pedal” fails (photo 10), the car should not go, but. if you really need to - maybe. The engine will run at idle speed, but maintain these rpm under load. You should get under way very smoothly. On a flat road, you can even get to fifth gear. Breakage of the coolant and air temperature sensors are not fatal to the engine, although it will go out of optimal mode.Therefore, it is worth checking their resistance according to the data in Table. 1 and 2. Failure of the boost pressure sensor located on the bulkhead (photo 11) is immediately noticeable - the engine loses half its power.
To find out which sensor or actuator is floundering, connect a diagnostic device to the block (photo 12). If it is not there, the error can be “calculated” by jumpering pins 1 and 2 in the block. (The pin numbers are on the back of the block, and the fault codes are in the engine manual.)
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Despite the fact that GAZ-560 (STEYR) diesel engines have been produced not so long ago, some engines have run 600 thousand km. And this is not the limit. The main thing in their longevity is timely maintenance and routine maintenance.
