In detail: do-it-yourself repair of dmrv 037 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
First you need to remove the pipe from the mass air flow sensor (instructions). Next, you need to remove the mass air flow sensor from the pipe, otherwise it will not be possible to perform high-quality cleaning. To remove the sensor, you will need a set of sprocket keys. We unscrew the screws and take out the sensor from the pipe.
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You can often find that the inside of the sensor itself is covered with oil, our task is to make everything perfectly clean. To clear the mass air flow sensor a carburetor cleaner is suitable for this plaque. On the inside of the film, there are 2-3 sensors, which are small wires that are attached with a special resin. Gently spray on this sensitive element so as not to damage it. We are waiting for a while until the product dries. We repeat this procedure several times, depending on the pollution of the mass air flow sensor. To accelerate drying, it is allowed to use a compressor / canister with compressed air, but the point is not in high pressure, but in blowing for drying.
On this repair of DMRV finished. We carry out the assembly in reverse order and change the air filter.
As practice shows, out of 10 sensors using cleaning it is possible to restore 8. In any case, it is worth trying, because the price of a cleaning agent is 10-15 times less than the cost of a new sensor.
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Video (click to play). |
Mass air flow cleaning video:
By the way, before you buy a new sensor or try repair the DMRV, it would be more correct to first diagnose it.
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Have you tried to restore the mass air flow sensor?
They ask for a considerable price for a mass air flow sensor, and according to the laws of the market, this should be justified. It's simple, however! To a large extent, this is a payment for our ignorance - we cannot imagine how the DMRV works ... and why it stops working. And also - for the opinion imposed on us by the market dealers: if the DMRV got mocked - buy a new one!
The role of the DMRV can hardly be overestimated. In order for the controller to accurately orchestrate the injectors and ignition, it must, as accurately as possible, know the actual air flow rate of the engine. If the mass air flow sensor begins to lie, the engine loses power, fuel consumption and exhaust toxicity increase, and acceleration dynamics deteriorates.
One of the common reasons for the malfunctioning of the mass air flow sensor on the "dozens" lies in the peculiarities of the engine crankcase ventilation system. There are two circuits in it - a large one, which operates with an open throttle, and a small one for idling, when the throttle is closed. In the latter case, blow-by gases are sucked into the throttle space through a channel with a hole diameter of 1.5 mm. Some of them pass along the idle line, through its regulator, at the same time in contact with the delicate film resistor of the DMRV. In addition, the latter is located in the zone of action of reverse oscillations of gases in the intake tract. Resin deposits change the characteristics of the resistor - and the sensor is out of tune. By this time, the idle speed regulator also begins to be capricious in its own way - it jams, wedges, especially when starting the engine.
Usually, the DMRV is checked with a diagnostic device (for example, DST-6), but we will manage with a digital multimeter with a scale of up to 2 V. Insert a pin between the rubber seal and the yellow wire until it stops in contact (photo 1). Now turn on the ignition and measure the voltage at this contact. Ideally, it should turn out to be 0.99 V. Taking into account the measurement errors - no more than 1.03 V. If it is higher, some people immediately replace the sensor with a new one. We will not be in a hurry. Having unscrewed the tricky self-tapping screws for fastening the measuring element of the sensor with pliers, we will instead select simple (4.9 x 20) for a Phillips screwdriver. This will make it easier to service the machine in the future. And we will work with the removed element. Let's prepare a washing device - an aerosol carburetor cleaner, the tube of which, heated in a match flame, bend at an angle of 90 °. Then we cut it off so that the jet is knocked out to the side, and the tube itself remains straight (photo 2). Having introduced it to a depth of 10 mm into the upper channel of the DMRV measuring element, we rinse the resistor. In a few seconds - again. As a rule, more is not required. Please note that the resistor does not allow any force effect - forget about cotton swabs, brushes, compressed air.
Letting the traces of the cleaner dry, insert the sensor into the housing and repeat the voltage measurements. Hasn't changed? Apparently, the DMRV resource is really exhausted. Usually, the "top ten" need to go through 80-90 thousand, or even more. If the tension has dropped to normal, we will drive. Of course, after flushing the sensor in this way, some of the characteristics of the engine may change. You will need to re-check the toxicity of the exhaust, in some cases (if the system allows it) to adjust it - and so on. Well, is it possible to ease the operating conditions of the DMRV and extend its service life? We will talk about this another time.
As practice shows, out of 10 sensors using cleaning it is possible to restore 8. In any case, it is worth trying, because the price of a cleaning agent is 10-15 times less than the cost of a new sensor.
Mass air flow cleaning video :
By the way, before you buy a new sensor or try repair the DMRV... it would be more correct to first diagnose it.
How quickly the mass air flow sensor will clog depends directly on the degree of contamination of the air filter on which it is located. If the filter is not clogged, then it effectively cleans the air of all dust particles and the mass air flow sensor does not come into contact with fine mechanical impurities, however, if the air filter is worn out or simply not of high quality, the sensor will get dirty very quickly.
Cleaning the mass air flow sensor is performed in the following cases:
- The fourteenth is very dull at the moment of acceleration, any jerking, jerking or dips in revolutions indicate that something is wrong with the sensor;
- The engine runs intermittently at idle, or vice versa, at idle, the speed is excessively off scale;
- Fuel consumption has increased (owners of VAZ-2114 often write that with a dirty sensor, gasoline consumption can increase from 9-10 to 15 liters);
- The engine refuses to start.
Flushing the mass air flow sensor on the VAZ 2114 solves any of these problems, if, of course, the sensor is its only cause.
To determine that this particular unit is faulty and the MAF sensor needs to be flushed and repaired, it is necessary to check the mass air flow sensor with a multimeter.
A multimeter, also known as a tester, is an electronic device that can be purchased at any car dealership at a price of 400-600 rubles for the simplest models (their functionality will be quite enough for us). It is not inexpensive and will come in handy in the garage more than once - they can check any sensors and electronic systems of the car.
The serviceability of the mass air flow sensor is checked as follows:
- We transfer the tester to the voltmeter mode and set the upper limit of sensitivity to 2 Volts;
- We short-circuit the multimeter probes on the yellow and green wires (they are located in the sensor connection socket);
- We activate the ignition (there is no need to start the engine) and look at the tester reading.
If the tester has confirmed that the voltage between the yellow and green contacts fluctuates in the range from 0.0099 to 0.02, then everything is fine with the unit.
If the device is breathing hard due to wear or contamination of sensitive parts, the tester will show a maximum voltage of 0.03 V, in which case it is necessary to clean the mass air flow sensor on the VAZ 2114.
In the case when the readings of the multimeter are much higher than the upper voltage limit, in the range of 0.045-0.5 V, or much less than the minimum - 0.09-0.095 V, the probability that flushing the mass air flow sensor will give a result of about 50%.
Checking with a multimeter is not a dogma, there are other methods.
There is another simple method to check the performance of this node, which can be used in the absence of a multimeter. Just remove the mass air flow sensor and close the air duct valve, turn on the fourteenth and run it at 2 thousand revolutions. If you feel that in the absence of a sensor, the car behaves much better on the road, then the problem is in it.
The reason why the mass air flow sensor fails is the contamination of its sensitive element, which is a wire or a platinum resistor (depending on the type of device).
Platinum sensors are very easily damaged by the wrong cleaning approach. If this happens, the device can simply be thrown into a landfill, as it will be impossible to restore them.
When choosing what to clean the mass air flow sensor, never use the following fluids:
- Products containing acetone;
- Ketones and any other artificial solvents;
- Liquids containing sulfuric esters.
Also don't tryclean the mass air flow sensor on the VAZ 2114with the help of cotton shelves for cleaning the ears or a toothbrush - any mechanical contact with the sensitive element of the device is unacceptable.
The choice of fluid for flushing the mass air flow sensor, in fact, has three options:
- Regular medical alcohol without any impurities;
- Acetone-free carburetor cleaner;
- WD-40.
Ideally, it is best to use WD-40 and rubbing alcohol at the same time (diluted with distilled water in a ratio of 5 to 1): first, a VDshka is applied to the sensitive contacts, after which it is washed off with alcohol.
Having decided how to flush the mass air flow sensor, you can proceed directly to the procedure itself.
In addition to the cleaning liquid, you will need a regular syringe with a needle for 10-20 cubes, a screwdriver and a 10 wrench to dismantle the sensor.
- We dismantle the device: we remove the block connected to the sensor with the power wires (on its lower part there is a locking button, which must be pressed, after which the block can be simply pulled out) and with a 10 key we unscrew the two screws that fix the sensor on the air filter housing;
- In the place where the block with wires is connected to the sensor, there are two screws connecting the parts of its protective casing, they must be unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver, after which you can disassemble the casing and pull out the DMRV itself;
- All sensitive elements of the sensor (thermosensor wire, contacts) are washed with a cleaning liquid. If it is VD-40 or a carburetor cleaner supplied from a can, carefully monitor the pressure of the jet on the elements of the device, it should not be too strong (the optimal distance of the can nozzle from the structure is 5-10 centimeters);
- Apply VD-40 for the first time, let it dry for 30-40 seconds and reapply (2-3 times, as a rule, is enough);
- Then, using a syringe, rinse the sensitive elements and sensor contacts with a mixture of medical alcohol and distilled water.
This completes the procedure. Knowing how to clean a mass air flow sensor on a VAZ 2114, all the work can be done in 15-20 minutes. It remains only to install the device in place and check its performance.
This technique can be used, among other things, on the VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115.
Auto parts sellers ask for a lot of money for a mass air flow sensor. However, repairing a mass air flow sensor is not a big deal. Therefore, before listening to the seller who stubbornly insists that the mass air flow sensor is not restored, but changed, try your luck and repair this device.
The MAF sensor plays a very important role. The controller will mix fuel and air in the correct proportion only if it receives accurate data on the engine air consumption.
If the sensor gives false data, the air-fuel mixture will become of poor quality for the given engine mode and the engine will lose power, fuel consumption will increase, the dynamics and "response" of the car will worsen.
In domestic cars, the most popular problem with mass air flow sensors lies in the crankcase ventilation system. This system has two circuits. One of them is designed to work with an open throttle, the smaller one with a closed one.
When the throttle is closed, crankcase gases are sucked into the space behind the throttle along a line with a diameter of 1.5 mm. Some of these gases move along the idle line and come into contact with the film coating of the sensor resistor.
Also, this resistor is influenced by oscillations of gases in the intake tract. Resin accumulates on the surface of the resistor, and it begins to "lie". The idle speed control will also begin to wedge and seize, especially when starting the engine.
If there is no special diagnostic device for the mass air flow sensor, then you can completely do with a voltmeter with a 2 V scale. Between the seal and the yellow wire, we insert a pin into contact until it stops. We turn on the ignition and measure the contact voltage. Ideally 0.99 V. Deviations of 0.03 volts are still allowed, but not anymore.
If the value does not suit us, then we are in no hurry to change the sensor. Using the pliers, we unscrew the fastening elements of the block, since they are quite tricky, instead of them, you can subsequently wrap the usual ones, under a Phillips screwdriver. Prepare an aerosol carburetor cleaner in advance, warm its tube with a match and bend it at a right angle.
We cut it off so that the jet beats to the side, and the tube itself is straight. We introduce it to a depth of about 10 mm into the upper channel of the sensor and my resistor. Let's wait a couple of seconds and repeat the manipulation. Never try to mechanically clean the resistor with swabs, sticks and compressed air.
After the measuring element has dried, we put it back into the case and measure the voltage. If it has not changed, then it looks like the DMRV will actually have to be replaced. If the voltage is normal, the efforts are justified.
The mass air flow sensor (MAF) is not cheap. Its cost is quite high. Although some sellers claim that they cannot be repaired, it is quite possible to restore the functionality of this item. Do-it-yourself DMRV repair will extend the life of the device and save the budget.
Before proceeding with the repair of the MAF sensor, it is important to understand the principle of operation of the device as a whole. The controller mixes fuel with air. The optimal proportion is obtained only if the device provides correct data on the air consumption of the engine.
If this does not happen, the air-fuel mixture becomes unbalanced, the engine operating mode is disrupted. This, in turn, leads to a deterioration in the dynamics of the vehicle as a whole and significantly increases fuel consumption.
The most common problem due to which the DMRV sensor fails is associated with the crankcase ventilation system. The system consists of two circuits:
1. provides operation with an open throttle (which has a high performance);
2. Provides operation with a closed throttle.
In the case when the profile is closed, crankcase gases move partially along the idle line, since they enter not only into a special line. The measuring resistor of the sensor has a film coating with which the blow-by gases come into contact along the idle line. During operation, the gas medium in the intake tract also acts on the resistor. All this leads to an increase in the error readings. This can be felt when starting the engine when the idle speed control sticks slightly.
When repairing a DMRV in a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, you need to check the device using a special diagnostic device. If this is not possible, use a conventional voltmeter. The scale should be able to measure voltage with an accuracy of 0.01 volts. Measurements are taken between the sensor inlet and ground. The input is indicated by a yellow wire, and the ground is usually indicated by a green wire.
The optimal value is a voltage in the range from 0.99 to 1.01 V. If the mark shows a value higher, it's time to repair the mass air flow sensor. To clean the sensor, you must first remove the block mount. Factory mounts look pretty tricky, it makes sense to replace them with standard ones and for a regular screwdriver.
A carburetor cleaner will serve as a solvent. It is also convenient because the tube of the aerosol can perfectly fits the resistor channel. We clean the resistor in several passes.
Important: it is forbidden to use matches, toothpicks, sharp sticks, elegant rollers. Even a jet of compressed air can be harmful. After assembly, we check the voltage again. If it is in the correct range, then the repair was successful.
Auto parts sellers ask for a lot of money for a mass air flow sensor. However, repairing a mass air flow sensor is not a big deal. Therefore, before listening to the seller who stubbornly insists that the mass air flow sensor is not restored, but changed, try your luck and repair this device.
The MAF sensor plays a very important role. The controller will mix fuel and air in the correct proportion only if it receives accurate data on the engine air consumption.
If the sensor gives false data, the air-fuel mixture will become of poor quality for the given engine mode and the engine will lose power, fuel consumption will increase, the dynamics and "response" of the car will worsen.
In domestic cars, the most popular problem with mass air flow sensors lies in the crankcase ventilation system. This system has two circuits. One of them is designed to work with an open throttle, the smaller one with a closed one.
When the throttle is closed, crankcase gases are sucked into the space behind the throttle along a line with a diameter of 1.5 mm. Some of these gases move along the idle line and come into contact with the film coating of the sensor resistor.
Also, this resistor is influenced by oscillations of gases in the intake tract. Resin accumulates on the surface of the resistor, and it begins to "lie". The idle speed control will also begin to wedge and seize, especially when starting the engine.
If there is no special diagnostic device for the mass air flow sensor, then you can completely do with a voltmeter with a 2 V scale. Between the seal and the yellow wire, we insert a pin into contact until it stops. We turn on the ignition and measure the contact voltage. Ideally 0.99 V. Deviations of 0.03 volts are still allowed, but not anymore.
If the value does not suit us, then we are in no hurry to change the sensor. Using the pliers, we unscrew the fastening elements of the block, since they are quite tricky, instead of them, you can subsequently wrap the usual ones, under a Phillips screwdriver. Prepare an aerosol carburetor cleaner in advance, warm its tube with a match and bend it at a right angle.
We cut it off so that the jet beats to the side, and the tube itself is straight. We introduce it to a depth of about 10 mm into the upper channel of the sensor and my resistor. Let's wait a couple of seconds and repeat the manipulation. Never try to mechanically clean the resistor with swabs, sticks and compressed air.
After the measuring element has dried, we put it back into the case and measure the voltage. If it has not changed, then it looks like the DMRV will actually have to be replaced. If the voltage is normal, the efforts are justified.
How to restore a VAZ air flow sensor. The main function of the mass air flow sensor (MAF) is to control how much air was actually consumed by the power unit. In case of malfunctions during the operation of the mass air flow sensor, usually there is a loss of power of the power unit.
Owners of "ten" more often than others are faced with malfunctioning of the mass air flow sensor, which occurs due to malfunctions of the ventilation system of the crankcase of the power unit. This causes the deposition of resins, due to which there is a change in the characteristics of the resistor and the sensor is malfunctioning, which can ultimately affect the operation of the sensor that controls idle. We advise owners of Lada of new modifications to read Priora repair with their own hands - the auto repair portal gives excellent advice to motorists.
The signal level from the mass air flow sensor can decrease due to several main reasons. The first is that the sensor is not connected to a wiring harness. To correct this problem, you should first visually check that the wires are connected.
If the reason is different, disconnect the sensor and check the contacts, if there are any faults, they should be eliminated, then reconnect the sensor. You just have to start the engine and check the sensor in action.
Another reason is the open circuit of the supply mass air flow sensor. To check, turn on the ignition and use a voltmeter to check the voltage on the 5th contact of the sensor. If the voltage is close to zero, switch off the ignition and check with an ohmmeter on circuits 37L and 376.
Possible malfunctions in the sensor connector (pin 5) may be a break in the wire 37 or the fall of the sensor wire of the contact socket from the column. It is also possible that there is a break in the 37L wire at the place of the common soldering, as well as 376 in the place going from the main relay to the place of the common soldering.
How to restore a VAZ air flow sensor - after eliminating the malfunction, start the engine and check for the presence of a 013 fault code.If the mass wire of the mass air flow sensor is cut off, turn off the ignition, and check with an ohmmeter the 60th connection to the engine ground of the harness circuit in the place from the contact of the first sensor socket to the metal components of the motor.
In this case, a breakage of 60 wires could occur or the wires of the contact socket sensor could fall out of the block. Also, a breakage of 62 wires from the motor mass is not excluded. After eliminating the malfunction, start the engine and make sure that there is no 013 malfunction code.
The principle by which the mass air flow sensor operates is that when air passes through, one of the sensors is cooled, the electronic module, in turn, takes into account the temperature difference, after which a control signal is generated.
Most modern cars have two types of sensors. In the first category, taking into account the air flow rate, the signal frequency is changed, in the second - the voltage. For example, VAZ cars today are equipped with D004 and D037 sensors.
We explained how to restore the VAZ air flow sensor - it's not difficult!
The mass air flow sensor (MAF) is not cheap. Its cost is quite high. Although some sellers claim that they cannot be repaired, it is quite possible to restore the functionality of this item. Do-it-yourself DMRV repair will extend the life of the device and save the budget.
Before proceeding with the repair of the MAF sensor, it is important to understand the principle of operation of the device as a whole. The controller mixes fuel with air. The optimal proportion is obtained only if the device provides correct data on the air consumption of the engine.
If this does not happen, the air-fuel mixture becomes unbalanced, the engine operating mode is disrupted. This, in turn, leads to a deterioration in the dynamics of the vehicle as a whole and significantly increases fuel consumption.
The most common problem due to which the DMRV sensor fails is associated with the crankcase ventilation system. The system consists of two circuits:
1. provides operation with an open throttle (which has a high performance);
2. Provides operation with a closed throttle.
In the case when the profile is closed, crankcase gases move partially along the idle line, since they enter not only into a special line. The measuring resistor of the sensor has a film coating with which the blow-by gases come into contact along the idle line. During operation, the gas medium in the intake tract also acts on the resistor. All this leads to an increase in the error readings. This can be felt when starting the engine when the idle speed control sticks slightly.
When repairing a DMRV in a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, you need to check the device using a special diagnostic device. If this is not possible, use a conventional voltmeter. The scale should be able to measure voltage with an accuracy of 0.01 volts. Measurements are taken between the sensor inlet and ground. The input is indicated by a yellow wire, and the ground is usually indicated by a green wire.
The optimal value is a voltage in the range from 0.99 to 1.01 V. If the mark shows a value higher, it's time to repair the mass air flow sensor. To clean the sensor, you must first remove the block mount. Factory mounts look pretty tricky, it makes sense to replace them with standard ones and for a regular screwdriver.
A carburetor cleaner will serve as a solvent. It is also convenient because the tube of the aerosol can perfectly fits the resistor channel. We clean the resistor in several passes.
Important: it is forbidden to use matches, toothpicks, sharp sticks, elegant rollers. Even a jet of compressed air can be harmful. After assembly, we check the voltage again. If it is in the correct range, then the repair was successful.
Failure of the air flow sensor is a fairly common phenomenon. But what can be the reason for this, how to determine that the sensor is clogged, as well as what and how to clean the dmrv on a VAZ 2114 - we will consider in this article.
In order to identify a malfunction (or vice versa - to confirm the operability) of the mass air flow sensor, you should check it using a millivoltmeter (or a tester / multimeter set to voltmeter mode).
The sequence of operations for such a check will be as follows:
- we expose the device to measure voltage;
- if necessary, set the range to 10 volts (depending on the device model);
- turn on the car ignition (without starting the engine);
- we carry out a measurement between the yellow and green wires of the sensor;
- we compare the readings of the multimeter with the base ones.
So, if the measurement results are within the range from 0.02 to 0.009 V, it means that the sensor is fully operational. If the average indicator fluctuates around 0.03, then the sensor is clogged, and it is very likely that cleaning it will help correct the situation. If the voltage is critically small or, on the contrary, very high (up to half a volt and even higher), then the probability of a successful return of the sensor to life after flushing is about 50%.
By the way, there is another simple and correct way to check - just disconnect the sensor, start the car and accelerate to 2,000 rpm. If at the same time the car starts to behave better on the road than with the sensor, then the reason lies precisely in it.
The condition and degree of wear of the air filter, on which the first one is installed, is of great importance for the long and trouble-free operation of the sensor. So, if the filter is in good working order and filters dust and small abrasive particles in the air well, then the sensor will serve for a long time. If the filter is worn out, the sensor quickly becomes dirty and stops working correctly.
You can find out that it is necessary to clean the dmrv vaz 2114 by one of the following signs:
- the car is poorly controlled during acceleration, there are sharp drops in revolutions, acceleration and jerks;
- engine speed at idle is extremely off scale or, on the contrary, is intermittent;
- fuel consumption has sharply increased (in the case of the 14th model, it can grow even by 50%);
- the engine stopped starting.
Cleaning the dmrv using mechanical action or a jet of compressed air is strictly prohibited - such a procedure will instantly lead to its breakdown.
In most of these cases, it is not necessary to immediately run after a new sensor - just cleaning it will help.
Since acquiring a new mass air flow sensor is far from a cheap pleasure, you should first try to restore it by cleaning. If it doesn't help, you just have to buy a new device. True, before starting to repair the dmrv vaz 2114 with your own hands, you should firmly understand that the sensor is a very sensitive and fragile device. That is why, when cleaning it (and any other manipulations with it), you should be extremely careful.
For the same reason, it is FORBIDDEN to use the following substances and formulations to clean it:
- containing acetone;
- synthetic solvents;
- petrol;
- liquids intended for washing carburetors based on ketones / acetone;
- ethers, as well as compositions based on them.
In addition, it is strictly not allowed to clean the air flow sensor using mechanical means - cotton swabs, rags, or blowing with compressed air. Any of these methods will lead to immediate failure of the device without the possibility of further repair.
The best way to clean the air sensor is to briefly apply the WD-40 composition to it, followed by rinsing with a solution of ethyl alcohol.
In fact, there are not so many cleaning compounds that can be used to clean the air sensor - everyone else will just spoil it (see the section above).
Therefore, the question: the better to flush the DMRV, can be answered quite specifically:
- pure medical grade ethyl alcohol, free of any impurities;
- carburetor cleaner (not containing acetone);
- spray WD-40.
At the same time, medical alcohol can be used either 96 degrees or diluted with distilled water in a ratio of 1 to 5.
After we have considered the methods for diagnosing the sensor, as well as the means for cleaning it, let's move on to the most important question - how to clean the dmrv sensor on the VAZ 2114 yourself?
First, you need to disconnect the block supplying the power wires - for this you just need to press the button on its bottom, and then pull it towards you. You also need to unscrew the two fastening screws connecting the dmrv with the air filter (for this you need a 10 key).
After that, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws located on the sensor casing in the area where the block with wires is attached - by doing this, it will be possible to disassemble the casing itself and remove the sensor outside.
All elements of the sensor that are responsible for its sensitivity - the contacts and the wire of the thermosensor - are washed with a spray from a can (if it is a carburetor cleaner or VeDe-shka). At the same time, you should strictly monitor the pressure of the jet - for this you need to keep the sprayer at a distance of at least 15 cm from the sensor.
After half a minute, this operation can be repeated, and then wash all the places where the first composition was applied using a syringe with a solution of ethyl alcohol. After that, it remains only to assemble the sensor in the reverse order and mount it in place.
For more information, see the video below:
