Let the cleaner dry. Only then insert the sensor back into the housing. After that, the voltage measurement should be repeated. If during the measurement everything remained the same, then the DMRV on the Prior really worked its way.
After flushing the sensor, some of the characteristics of the engine may become altered. In this case, it is worth checking the toxicity of the exhaust and adjusting it if necessary. If, when checking, the measurements returned to normal, then you can safely drive on.
Not everyone wants to go to the maintenance and check the sensor for the state of work, but someone will simply feel sorry for the money. How can you find out yourself whether the sensor is working properly or not without a service station?
To check the mass air flow sensor, unscrew the clamp. This clamp secures the air intake corrugation. This action should be performed with a curly screwdriver. After the clamp has been removed, we begin to carefully remove the pipe. Examine the pipe surface. Take a look at the inside of the pipe, it should be clean and, of course, dry. Failure to replace the air filter in time may affect the operation of the air flow sensor. It will become contaminated with road dust.
Unscrew the DMRV fastening elements in the Prior with a 10 key and inspect it. The rubber ring at the edge of the entrance must be in place. If it is not, correct it or replace it. If this is not done, then due to the dust that gets into the sensor, it will stop working correctly.
If oil or traces of it were found in the design of the part, then this will indicate that your oil separator is clogged, or that the concentration of lubricant in the motor is increased. In the first case, clean the system, and in the second case, drain the excess oil.
In case of any breakdowns, it is better to repair the mass air flow sensor or replace it, otherwise your fuel consumption will increase. That's all! Good luck!
VIDEO
restore the mass air flow sensor yourself .
Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.
As practice shows, out of 10 sensors using cleaning it is possible to restore 8. In any case, it is worth trying, because the price of a cleaning agent is 10-15 times less than the cost of a new sensor.
Mass air flow cleaning video :
By the way, before you buy a new sensor or try repair the DMRV , it would be more correct to first diagnose it.
In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.
In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.
Have you tried to restore the mass air flow sensor?
To monitor the normal operation of the engine in modern cars, many different sensors and regulators are used. One of these is a mass air flow sensor or a mass air flow sensor in a Lada Priora car. You can learn more about regulator malfunctions, as well as its repair, from this material.
The purpose of the mass air flow sensor is to determine the volume of air required to form the air-fuel mixture. When the engine is running, the volume of air flow fills the cylinders of the power unit. The DMRV Priora itself is connected to an electrical block and is installed in the intake tract. The impulse at the regulator is a constant current, the parameter of which depends on the movement of the air flow.
The following elements are included in the construction of the controller:
a ring inside the device used to attach the filter element;
directly the filter installed inside;
inlet flange;
various thermal components;
electronic circuit;
connector for plug;
outlet flange.
If we talk about thermal components, then one of them is designed to determine the outside air temperature, and the function of heating the air flow is performed by two other elements. Thanks to the filter, no more dirt particles get into the device body, because if debris gets inside, this will lead to breakage of the thermocouples. Also, the filter performs the function of dissecting the air flow, which allows it to be evenly distributed. The filter element itself is attached with a ring on the inlet flange. It should also be noted that there are rubber seals on each part of the case, which prevent possible air leaks.
The mass air flow sensor, like any other regulator, can break down over time, and the malfunctions can be different. To determine the breakdown, you should make a self-diagnosis of the car or use a multimeter. Vehicle diagnostics can show fault codes 33 or 34, this indicates a breakdown of the flow meter.
In addition, the following symptoms may indicate a failure of the regulator:
the operation of the power unit is intermittent, which can appear and disappear;
uneven engine operation when engaging neutral;
violation of the dynamics of the vehicle, the car seems to be unable to accelerate;
the revolutions float - they can rise and fall;
increased consumption of gasoline.
If you do not want to waste money on the purchase of a new mass air flow sensor, you can try to restore its performance. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screws securing the measuring element to the regulator. Restoring functionality consists in flushing the device, so you need to prepare a cleaning agent in advance, for example, you can use a liquid to flush the carburetor. The aerosol tube must be bent at right angles in advance.
Next, the tube is heated and cut so that it is straight, but the jet is directed to the side. The tube must be inserted into the upper valve of the dismantled component by about 1 cm, after which the resistor is flushed. This procedure must be repeated several times with an interval of 2-3 seconds, while remembering that the resistor is not able to withstand heavy mechanical loads. Therefore, in no case should you clean the device with cotton wool, brushes or compressed air (the author of the video is the VAZ hand made channel).
Wait a few minutes for the cleaner to dry completely. When the resistor is dry, it can be reinserted into the case. Having done this, you can again diagnose the flow meter. It should be noted that after cleaning the controller, some characteristics of the power unit may be changed. If this is the case, then it is necessary to diagnose the toxicity of the exhaust gases and adjust this parameter, if necessary.
To diagnose the condition of the flow meter, you must first unscrew the clamp that fixes the corrugation of the air intake; this requires a Phillips screwdriver. Carefully remove the line itself, and then make a visual diagnosis of its surfaces. The internal cavities of the pipe must be clean, the presence of condensation or moisture is not allowed. In the event that the air filter in your car is not changed in time, this can also negatively affect the functionality of the flow meter, since it can become clogged with dust.
Using a 10 spanner, unscrew the fixing elements of the flow meter. When the regulator is in your hands, you need to inspect it. The rubberized seal should be located at the edge of the exit, if it has shifted, then it needs to be corrected. If you do not do this, the flowmeter will stop working over time due to dust getting inside.
Diagnostics of the sensor with a multimeter is as follows:
The tester is set to a voltage level of 20 volts.
Two wires should be connected to the holes of the sensor, after which the tester probes are connected to it. When you turn on the ignition, the tester should show a number between 0.99 and 1.00. If these figures are 1.01 or 1.02, up to 1.03, then the condition of the flow meter is generally satisfactory, it can still be used. If the readings are higher, then the device needs to be changed.
Features of replacing the device are shown in the video below (author - channel In the garage at Sandro's).
restore the mass air flow sensor yourself .
As practice shows, out of 10 sensors using cleaning it is possible to restore 8. In any case, it is worth trying, because the price of a cleaning agent is 10-15 times less than the cost of a new sensor.
Mass air flow cleaning video :
By the way, before you buy a new sensor or try repair the DMRV ... it would be more correct to first diagnose it.
How quickly the mass air flow sensor will clog depends directly on the degree of contamination of the air filter on which it is located. If the filter is not clogged, then it effectively cleans the air of all dust particles and the mass air flow sensor does not come into contact with fine mechanical impurities, however, if the air filter is worn out or simply not of high quality, the sensor will get dirty very quickly.
Cleaning the mass air flow sensor is performed in the following cases:
The fourteenth is very dull at the moment of acceleration, any jerking, jerking or dips in revolutions indicate that something is wrong with the sensor;
The engine runs intermittently at idle, or vice versa, at idle, the revolutions are excessively off scale;
Fuel consumption has increased (owners of VAZ-2114 often write that with a dirty sensor, gasoline consumption can increase from 9-10 to 15 liters);
The engine refuses to start.
Flushing the mass air flow sensor on the VAZ 2114 solves any of these problems, if, of course, the sensor is its only cause.
To determine that this particular unit is faulty and the MAF sensor needs to be flushed and repaired, it is necessary to check the mass air flow sensor with a multimeter.
A multimeter, also known as a tester, is an electronic device that can be purchased at any auto shop at a price of 400-600 rubles for the simplest models (their functionality will be quite enough for us). It is not inexpensive and will come in handy in the garage more than once - they can check any sensors and electronic systems of the car.
The serviceability of the mass air flow sensor is checked as follows:
We transfer the tester to the voltmeter mode and set the upper limit of sensitivity to 2 Volts;
We short-circuit the multimeter probes on the yellow and green wires (they are located in the sensor connection socket);
We activate the ignition (there is no need to start the engine) and look at the tester reading.
If the tester has confirmed that the voltage between the yellow and green contacts fluctuates in the range from 0.0099 to 0.02, then everything is fine with the unit.
If the device is breathing heavily due to wear or contamination of sensitive parts, the tester will show a maximum voltage of 0.03 V, in which case it is necessary to clean the mass air flow sensor on the VAZ 2114.
In the case when the readings of the multimeter are much higher than the upper voltage limit, in the range of 0.045-0.5 V, or much less than the minimum - 0.09-0.095 V, the probability that flushing the mass air flow sensor will give a result of about 50%.
Checking with a multimeter is not a dogma, there are other methods.
There is another simple method to check the performance of this node, which can be used in the absence of a multimeter. Just remove the mass air flow sensor and close the air duct valve, turn on the fourteenth and run it at 2 thousand revolutions. If you feel that in the absence of a sensor, the car behaves much better on the road, then the problem is in it.
The reason why the mass air flow sensor fails is the contamination of its sensitive element, which is a wire or a platinum resistor (depending on the type of device).
Platinum sensors are very easily damaged by the wrong cleaning approach. If this happens, the device can simply be thrown into a landfill, as it will be impossible to restore them.
When choosing what to clean the mass air flow sensor, never use the following fluids:
Products containing acetone;
Ketones and any other artificial solvents;
Liquids containing sulfuric esters.
Also don't try clean the mass air flow sensor on the VAZ 2114 with the help of cotton shelves for cleaning the ears or a toothbrush - any mechanical contact with the sensitive element of the device is unacceptable.
The choice of fluid for flushing the mass air flow sensor, in fact, has three options:
Regular medical alcohol without any impurities;
Acetone-free carburetor cleaner;
WD-40.
Ideally, it is best to use WD-40 and rubbing alcohol at the same time (diluted with distilled water in a ratio of 5 to 1): first, a VDshka is applied to the sensitive contacts, after which it is washed off with alcohol.
Having decided how to flush the mass air flow sensor, you can proceed directly to the procedure itself.
In addition to the cleaning liquid, you will need a regular syringe with a needle for 10-20 cubes, a screwdriver and a 10 wrench to dismantle the sensor.
We dismantle the device: we remove the block connected to the sensor with the power wires (on its lower part there is a locking button, which must be pressed, after which the block can be simply pulled out) and, with a 10 key, unscrew the two screws that fix the sensor on the air filter housing;
In the place where the block with wires is connected to the sensor, there are two screws connecting the parts of its protective casing, they must be unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver, after which you can disassemble the casing and pull out the DMRV itself;
All sensitive elements of the sensor (thermosensor wire, contacts) are washed with a cleaning liquid. If it is VD-40 or a carburetor cleaner supplied from a can, carefully monitor the pressure of the jet on the elements of the device, it should not be too strong (the optimal distance of the can nozzle from the structure is 5-10 centimeters);
Apply VD-40 for the first time, let it dry for 30-40 seconds and reapply (2-3 times, as a rule, is enough);
Then, using a syringe, rinse the sensitive elements and sensor contacts with a mixture of medical alcohol and distilled water.
This completes the procedure. Knowing how to clean a mass air flow sensor on a VAZ 2114, all the work can be done in 15-20 minutes. It remains only to install the device in place and check its performance.
VIDEO
This technique can be used, among other things, on the VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115.
Auto parts sellers ask for a lot of money for a mass air flow sensor. However, repairing a mass air flow sensor is not a big deal. Therefore, before listening to the seller who stubbornly insists that the mass air flow sensor is not restored, but changed, try your luck and repair this device.
The MAF sensor plays a very important role. The controller will mix fuel and air in the correct proportion only if it receives accurate data on the engine air consumption.
If the sensor gives false data, the air-fuel mixture will become of poor quality for the given engine mode and the engine will lose power, fuel consumption will increase, the dynamics and "response" of the car will worsen.
In domestic cars, the most popular problem with mass air flow sensors lies in the crankcase ventilation system. This system has two circuits. One of them is designed to work with an open throttle, the smaller one with a closed one.
When the throttle is closed, crankcase gases are sucked into the space behind the throttle along a line with a diameter of 1.5 mm. Some of these gases move along the idle line and come into contact with the film coating of the sensor resistor.
Also, this resistor is influenced by oscillations of gases in the intake tract. Resin accumulates on the surface of the resistor, and it begins to "lie". The idle speed control will also begin to wedge and seize, especially when starting the engine.
If there is no special diagnostic device for the mass air flow sensor, then you can completely do with a voltmeter with a 2 V scale. Between the seal and the yellow wire, we insert a pin into contact until it stops. We turn on the ignition and measure the contact voltage. Ideally 0.99 V. Deviations of 0.03 volts are still allowed, but not anymore.
If the value does not suit us, then we are in no hurry to change the sensor. Using the pliers, we unscrew the fastening elements of the block, since they are quite tricky, instead of them, you can subsequently wrap the usual ones, under a Phillips screwdriver. Prepare an aerosol carburetor cleaner in advance, warm its tube with a match and bend it at a right angle.
We cut it off so that the jet beats to the side, and the tube itself is straight.We introduce it to a depth of about 10 mm into the upper channel of the sensor and my resistor. Let's wait a couple of seconds and repeat the manipulation. Never try to mechanically clean the resistor with swabs, sticks and compressed air.
After the measuring element has dried, we put it back into the case and measure the voltage. If it has not changed, then it looks like the DMRV will actually have to be replaced. If the voltage is normal, the efforts are justified.
The role of the DMRV can hardly be overestimated. In order for the controller to accurately orchestrate the injectors and ignition, it must know as accurately as possible the actual air flow rate of the engine. If the mass air flow sensor begins to lie, the engine loses power, fuel consumption and exhaust toxicity increase, and the acceleration dynamics deteriorate.
One of the common reasons for the malfunctioning of the mass air flow sensor on the "dozens" lies in the peculiarities of the engine crankcase ventilation system. There are two circuits in it - a large one, which operates with an open throttle, and a small one for idling, when the throttle is closed. In the latter case, blow-by gases are sucked into the throttle space through a channel with a hole diameter of 1.5 mm. Some of them pass along the idle line, through its regulator, at the same time in contact with the delicate film resistor of the DMRV. In addition, the latter is located in the zone of action of reverse oscillations of gases in the intake tract. Resin deposits change the characteristics of the resistor - and the sensor is out of tune. By this time, the idle speed regulator also begins to be capricious in its own way - it jams, wedges, especially when starting the engine.
Usually, the DMRV is checked with a diagnostic device (for example, DST-6), but we will manage with a digital multimeter with a scale of up to 2 V. Insert a pin between the rubber seal and the yellow wire until it stops in contact (photo 1). Now turn on the ignition and measure the voltage at this contact. Ideally, it should turn out to be 0.99 V. Taking into account the measurement errors - no more than 1.03 V. If it is higher, someone immediately replaces the sensor with a new one. We will not be in a hurry. Having unscrewed the tricky self-tapping screws for fastening the measuring element of the sensor with pliers, we will instead select simple (4.9 x 20) for a Phillips screwdriver. This will make it easier to service the machine in the future. And we will work with the removed element. Let's prepare a washing device - an aerosol carburetor cleaner, the tube of which, heated in a match flame, will be bent at an angle of 90 °. Then we cut it off so that the jet is knocked out to the side, and the tube itself remains straight (photo 2). Having introduced it to a depth of 10 mm into the upper channel of the DMRV measuring element, we rinse the resistor. In a few seconds - again. As a rule, more is not required. Please note that the resistor does not allow any force effect - forget about cotton swabs, brushes, compressed air.
Letting the traces of the cleaner dry, insert the sensor into the housing and repeat the voltage measurements. Hasn't changed? Apparently, the DMRV resource is really exhausted. Usually, the "top ten" need to go through 80-90 thousand, or even more. If the tension has dropped to normal, we will drive. Of course, after flushing the sensor in this way, some of the characteristics of the engine may change. You will need to re-check the toxicity of the exhaust, in some cases (if the system allows it) to adjust it - and so on. Well, is it possible to ease the operating conditions of the DMRV and extend its service life? We will talk about this another time.
If you act within the framework of the rules, then in case of suspicion of a DMRV failure, it is most correct to check it using a special diagnostic device, such as, for example, DST-6, but if you wish, you can take a simpler path and get by with a publicly available digital multimeter (tester ) with a measurement limit of 2V. In order to perform the check, we need to get to the signal wires of the sensor without disconnecting it and this can be done by introducing thin probes or ordinary needles under the rubber seals directly to the terminals. When checking, the voltage is measured between the yellow signal output wire (usually located closer to the windshield) and the green ground wire. Having achieved a reliable contact, we turn on the ignition without starting, at the same time, the engine. For a normal sensor, the measured voltage should be between 0.996V and 1.03V. If the voltage is higher, then you should look for a way out of the situation, namely, change the sensor or still try to restore it. The new sensor of the mass air flow sensor does not cost so little, and if we consider that out of 10 sensors subjected to "resuscitation", about eight sensors restore their characteristics, then an attempt to extend the life of the mass air flow sensor looks quite justified.
By and large, all recovery operations consist in simple disassembly and flushing of the most significant elements of the sensor and, in particular, its sensitive membrane.
Before starting such work, it is necessary to firmly understand that the sensitive element of the mass air flow sensor does not tolerate physical impact, which means that it is recommended to forget about any tampons, matches, brushes, etc. can cause irreparable harm to the thin contacts on the membrane, which are fixed with a special resin. Be that as it may, carburetor cleaner or regular alcohol can be used safely as a detergent.
When preparing for cleaning, you will need to remove the branch pipe from the mass air flow sensor, for which you need a set of sprocket keys to unscrew the cunning self-tapping screws (later they can be replaced with ordinary ones, under the cross). After removing the pipe, the condition of the sensor is assessed and, as a rule, surfaces covered with oil are visible at first glance. Flushing is carried out by applying a stream of detergent to the upper channel of the measuring element. For reliability, this procedure can be repeated, waiting for the pre-applied liquid to dry completely.
After flushing the sensor's sensitive element, do not forget to thoroughly clean the nozzle filter as well.
After completing the recovery procedures, the sensor is assembled, installed in place and the values given by it are checked again.
Welcome!
Note!
Summary:
Where is the MAF sensor located?
When should you clean the MAF sensor?
Note!
Note!
1) At the beginning of the operation, you will first need to remove the sensor itself, in fact, the sensor is removed quite easily, for more detailed instructions on how to remove it, check out the article called "Replacing the Mass Air Flow Sensor with a VAZ", everything is described there.
Note!
2) Then, when the sensor is already removed, you will need to disassemble it, for disassembly you need a special asterisk key, in the same case if you do not have one, then using pliers you can carefully unscrew the two screws that secure the sensor itself, for this take in hands with the pliers and unscrew the two screws that secure the sensor itself to the case (the screws are indicated by the arrows), but you need to unscrew the screws in this way, first tighten the screws well with the pliers and then twist the pliers and the case itself in the right direction and twist until the screws do not budge, but there it will already be possible to unscrew them easily with the help of your hands.
Note!
3) Now take in your hands a carburetor cleaner (How to choose the right cleaner was shown in the video at the end of the article) and them from top to bottom (Make sure first that the pressure from the cleaner is not too strong, if there is a lot of pressure in the cleaner and thus, the jet beats very, very strong, then in this case, we recommend that you rinse the sensor at a decent distance so as not to damage it) clean the sensor, you may not splash too much on the sensor case (But the case is still the most dirty) but still apply a little liquid , and pay special attention to the platinum spirals, which you will need to clean from the dust and dirt accumulated on it.
Note!
Additional video clip:
VIDEO Note!
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
VIDEO 
