DIY VAZ 2110 underbody repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the underbody of a VAZ 2110 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

No amount of tuning will save your car if the bodywork leaves a lot to be desired. You will sell a VAZ-2110 with a good engine for a pittance if the body is in a deplorable state. Who needs a car, for example, with a rotten bottom? How long will he travel? There is definitely no positive answer here.

You can repair the bottom of the VAZ-2110 with your own hands, if you have some experience in such work. Most likely, you cannot do without welding, because all parts should be fixed as firmly as possible. Now even repairing a rotten bottom is a solvable problem, especially in auto repair shops.

As you know, why repair a too rotten bottom, if this can be delayed. To do this, you must follow preventive measures. Of course, if the reason for corrosion is age, then no prevention will help. However, there are factors that should be considered in order to minimize the risk of bottom damage:

avoid accidents and drive a car following all traffic rules;
give your car for repair only to a trusted specialist who is able to do the job efficiently;
wash off adhered snow in winter;
avoid rooms with high levels of humidity in the air;
try to drive on good roads;
exclude the possibility of moisture getting into the passenger compartment, because otherwise rotting of the bottom directly from inside the passenger compartment cannot be avoided.

It is equally important to treat the bottom with special anti-corrosion agents - they will also help your body to serve without repair for several more years. When preventive measures have not been taken, and rust has already appeared on the bottom, it is time to start repairs.

First of all, it is worth noting that you will have to spend a lot of time and patience for repairs, prepare a large set of tools and enlist the help of a couple more people. The most important thing is to have on hand:

spacers for your VAZ-2110;
welding machine;
a sander that will help remove all rust;
paint, primer, anti-corrosion agents, wrench set, jack, etc.

After you have the necessary tools at hand, it's time to do a complete dismantling of the cabin, which will take you a lot of time. Pay special attention to the wiring, collect it in bundles, so that later you can easily fold everything back. Depending on how serious the damage is, you will have to either just remove the rust and weld on patches, or change the bottom element, or even replace it entirely. Most often, a situation arises when you only need to weld on a patch. It is important here to clean the metal from rust, and simply attach a small patch by welding. Then comes the metal processing and assembly of the cabin.

Less often you will have to change whole elements. In this case, the damaged element is cut out, and a new one is welded in its place. Complete replacement of the bottom is extremely rare, because it is carried out with very large damage, when the bottom has simply turned into "dust" - it is already better to do such work in a car workshop.

Video (click to play).

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The body of the car undergoes corrosion over the years, especially quickly it begins to rust if you do not take care of it, do not make an anti-corrosion coating.How soon the body parts begin to rust, also largely depends on the quality of the iron, factory processing, over time, the car needs repairs to the bottom, sills, side members, wheel arches, and so on.

Rusted sills and a rotten bottom are a fairly common problem on a VAZ-2110 car, and since such work in a car service is quite expensive, many car owners try to repair the car with their own hands. You can patch holes on the body and bring the car back to its normal form by various methods, there are non-welding methods, but basically all car owners try to make repairs using welding.

With any body repair, first of all, it is necessary to make an external examination of the iron, to identify and note for yourself which areas are in a deplorable state, need repair or replacement. The condition of the bottom metal is determined in different ways:

using a hammer and a core drill - if you think that there is rust in a certain area, you need to lightly hit the metal, check if there is rotten iron under the anti-corrosion coating;
try to raise the car on a jack on each side - if the stubborn platforms are rotten, it will be noticeable when you try to jack up the car;
push in different places on the floor of the car - weak, rotten iron will bend under your feet;
try to move the front seats back and forth in the cabin - problematic seat movements also often indicate the poor condition of the metal.

Any repair of thresholds and bottom by a non-welding method is not professional, and the craftsmen are considered only a temporary measure in order to restore the condition of the body in an amicable way, one cannot do without a welding machine. When repairing the bottom without welding, patches and new body elements are not welded, but installed on rivets or self-tapping screws (bolts), preparation and all other work is done in the same way as in traditional body repair using a welding machine.

Before proceeding with the restoration of the body in the traditional way (using welding), you need to prepare everything you need, from the tools you will need:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
electric drill with drills;
screwdrivers;
hammer.

To remove old noise insulation, you may need a chisel, you can quickly and efficiently remove the "noise" using a perforator. To clean metal, sandpaper of various grain sizes is needed; to increase productivity, it is recommended to use a sanding machine. You cannot do without materials when repairing the bottom, here a lot depends on the volume of restoration work. Most often you have to use:

patches (pieces of new iron) or ready-made spare parts such as floor spars, panels, sill amplifiers, etc .;
priming;
rust converter;
anti-corrosion and noise-insulating materials (you can use Movil, Tektil, bitumen mastic, Dinitrol, Prim Antishum, etc.).

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Since the brake, fuel pipes under the bottom often corrode thoroughly, stick and do not turn away, in many cases they also need to be replaced.

Before setting new salaries on the bottom or weld on body elements, you need to make preparations, partially disassemble the car:

remove the seats;
remove carpet;
dismantle the old soundproofing;
move aside the electrical wiring in those places where repairs will be carried out.

Before replacing individual elements, installing patches, the entire metal surface is freed from the old noise insulation, thoroughly washed and wiped off, cleaned with a grinder, a stripper or sandpaper. Then the metal should be degreased and treated with a rust converter, only after that you can start working directly with iron.

Most often, when replacing individual parts of the bottom or installing patches, welding is used; a semiautomatic welding machine is best suited for such repairs. If a complete individual part is changed, for example, a cross member, rivets can be drilled here and the element can be dismantled without welding.

When the bottom and the sills change at the same time, the latter are removed from the car first, and when replacing the sills, it is important to control the geometry of the body. When replacing floor panels, the bottom parts are always mounted from below, then welded or riveted. When there are many holes and foci of corrosion in the floor of the body, it is better to replace the bottom completely, all the more since it is relatively inexpensive when assembled for a Top Ten.

After carrying out work on restoring the bottom of the body, it is necessary to treat the surface with anti-corrosion compounds, it is best to first prime the iron, and then apply anti-corrosion. Before applying a protective layer, the metal must be thoroughly washed and dried, the best option is to degrease it with white spirit, acetone, solvent or a special chemical composition after washing. Also, do not forget about the processing of welds, they are lubricated with mastic.

In case of significant damage, the bottom often changes entirely, replacement in this case is more profitable than repairing:

the purchase of one large integral part as a result is cheaper than purchasing all the spare parts separately;
the amount of work in general for replacing the bottom is less than repairing it;
no need to waste time on thorough cleaning of metal from rust, removal of old sound insulation;
completely replacing the bottom can be quite simple, without welding, by drilling out the rivets, and then installing new fasteners.

If you are going to use an automatic welding machine, it is imperative to dismantle the fuel tank when replacing the floor of the body, non-observance of safety precautions can lead to a fire or even an explosion. And although the work of replacing a one-piece body element at first glance seems quite simple, there are some nuances here - on the new factory floor there are no studs, a bracket for a parking brake cable, and other fasteners that will need to be rearranged from the old floor.

When preparing iron for patches, it is necessary to take into account its thickness - too thin metal will be fragile, and a thick sheet is poorly welded and harder to process.
Although electric welding is cheaper to use, it is better to weld metal with a semi-automatic - it is easier to use it, and the weld is smoother and more accurate.
When cutting out pieces of metal and installing patches, the part to be installed must fit exactly in size.
When replacing the bottom, the weld seam cannot be continuous, since it has high rigidity, and insufficient elasticity negatively affects the strength of the body.

And if you undertake to repair the body with your own hands, you should be patient, carefully, without haste, perform all the necessary operations, sparing no time and effort in processing the metal, cleaning it from rust. Poor preparation and poor anti-corrosion treatment lead to the rapid appearance of corrosion, which negatively affects the service life of body elements.

To assess the current state of the car is largely possible through the analysis of the body. If all kinds of consumables are to be replaced, the suspension is really even possible to sort out with your own hands and even install a new engine, then restoring a completely rusted body is expensive and pointless.Nobody will tune, modify, invest a lot of money in a car if its body is already living out its last years. This significantly reduces the cost of a car, even if the engine is in perfect condition.Therefore, if you want to maintain an attractive appearance of your VAZ 2110, extend its service life, if necessary, sell for good money, keep an eye on the body and periodically carry out repair or preventive body work aimed at combating corrosion. Image - DIY repair of the underbody of the VAZ 2110

The first versions of the VAZ 2110 were characterized by the fact that their paintwork began to peel off in the area of the windshield frame. The problem began to develop from the seal and gradually spread to the entire body element.

Soon the manufacturer changed the painting and installation technology, but still the problem of the body unstable to corrosion was not completely overcome.

We will consider the main reasons for the likely appearance of rust on the sills, bottom, arches, side members. We will also give some tips on how to deal with them.

Prevention measures

After 5-7 years, traces of corrosion may appear on the body and bottom. There are no remedies against age, so listen to the following protection measures

It is easy to advise avoiding accidents. In this case, this is the only recommendation.

Do not try to save money on body repair, because an unqualified specialist will not really do anything, but will only take your time and money. Choose experienced, proven craftsmen and service stations

The worst is snow and rain. Try to knock down and wash away the snow adhering under the bottom. Especially if you frequently drive on roads sprinkled with salt or ice and snow melting agents

Think about the issues of moisture protection of the room, periodically turn on the heater, heat fan in the garage in winter in order to at least partially combat the high level of rust

Small stones destroy the anti-gravel coating within a year, after which corrosion begins to appear. Avoid these roads, carry out periodic preventive maintenance

It gets into the car through wet shoes and snow. From this, the bottom begins to rot from the inside. Be sure to lay rubber mats with sides in winter, carefully make sure that water does not get inside the cabin during rain or washing

To prolong the life of your own car's underbody, periodically do anti-corrosion treatments. Pay particular attention to the hidden cavities of the side members and sills.

Determining the presence of rust on the bottom is not difficult. Although if you bought a car hand-held, these problems can be carefully disguised.

Be sure to inspect the body from below. Traces of corrosion can be hidden behind a layer of anti-gravel coating or putty. Use a hammer or awl to strike lightly in these areas. If rust is present, you will see it.
Check the condition of the body along the sills, in the cabin at the feet of the driver and front passenger. It is these places that are quite weak in the case of the VAZ 2110.
If the bottom is rotten, you can see this by the flexing of the floor under your feet under load.
When the driver's seat breaks off or cannot be moved, a rotten body can also be the cause.
One of the most unpleasant situations is rotten thrust pads designed for lifting a car on a jack. But in this way you will immediately determine that there are problems and they need to be solved.

In order to repair the bottom with your own hands, for this you first need to prepare in a certain way. You will need a set of tools, a room, a lot of time, experience and a desire to do such things.It is especially important to prepare the following components from tools:

Welding machine. In the case of repairing the bottom of the car, it is better to use a semiautomatic device with wire and carbon dioxide. It is better, more efficient and more reliable than gas and electrodes;

Angle grinder. It will come in handy if necessary to remove rust from the floor, to fit elements and patches, to clean seams and surfaces;

Car stands. Various items can be used here. So look for what you have;

The rest of the kit is standard, and includes such components as anti-corrosion solution, joint compound, welding wire, sandpaper, primer, soundproofing sheets, paint, etc.

Now you need to drive the car into a garage or other equipment in the room, put it on stands.The machine should be positioned in such a way that it is convenient and safe to work underneath it.Disconnect the battery, then remove the doors. In this case, experts advise to provide for the presence of spacers for doorways in order to maintain the rigidity of the body and the required geometry.Since the underbody needs to be repaired not only under the car, but also from the inside, you will have to completely disassemble the interior. This is a difficult and time-consuming task. Be prepared for this psychologically. You will have to dismantle:

Armchairs;

Floor tunnel lining;

Carpets;

Air ducts;

Soundproofing layer.

Collect all the wiring carefully, combine it into bundles, if they are not assembled, so that later there will be no problems with the assembly. Collect all fasteners, distribute them in boxes or bags, sign. This is extremely important as you can run into serious problems later on.If you plan to completely replace the bottom or weld the panel to the floor, then the dashboard and beard will have to be removed in order to create open access to the engine shield.So, you have disassembled your VAZ 2110, so now you can really assess the condition of the bottom, as well as analyze the required amount of work. The most optimal situation is one that does not require replacement of elements. Rust spots are cleaned to obtain high-quality metal, after which they are reinforced with patches. But not everyone is able to face such a situation.

avoid accidents and drive a car following all traffic rules;
give your car for repair only to a trusted specialist who is able to do the job efficiently;
wash off adhered snow in winter;
avoid rooms with high levels of humidity in the air;
try to drive on good roads;
exclude the possibility of moisture getting into the passenger compartment, because otherwise rotting of the bottom directly from inside the passenger compartment cannot be avoided.

spacers for your VAZ-2110;
welding machine;
a sander that will help remove all rust;
paint, primer, anti-corrosion agents, wrench set, jack, etc.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation of our corporate lawyer by simply asking your question in the form below.

Masters at car services most often thicken the paint and tell the owner of the car that a rotten bottom requires long painstaking work, the cost of many materials. It is from this that such a high price is formed. At the same time, they try to prevent the owner from being examined or show problem areas in low light. In this case, ordinary dirt can be mistaken for an oxidized rotten metal, which you just touch and it will crumble. With the help of such little tricks, the colors are thickened, which allows to inflate the price.

If the car owner wants to save money, he needs to do a preliminary inspection of the bottom on his own. For this you will need:

Lift, observation pit, overpass.
Good lighting: a torch or a carrier with a powerful lamp.
Hammer.

With the help of a hammer, it is necessary to tap all suspicious areas of the bottom and determine the degree of their damage, in order to approximately know the amount of required materials.

If all of the above is not at hand or there is simply not enough time for a thorough inspection, then a special mirror will come to the rescue for inspecting the underside of the car. It will allow you to assess in general terms the condition of the metal and get an approximate idea of the scope of work. But the situation will become fully clear only after a thorough examination.

The welding process itself is simple, everyone can master it in the shortest possible time. Sometimes it takes longer to connect and set up equipment. The easiest way to over-weld the underside of a car is with a semi-automatic welding machine. But often such repairs are simply impossible without the involvement of gas welding. Best of all, when these two units are used, they complement each other and enhance the quality of underbody repairs.

As the saying goes: "If you want to do something well, do it yourself." Car underbody repair is no exception. To implement it, you will need the following equipment:

Semi-automatic welding machine.
Gas welding.
Conventional metal or electric scissors.
Bulgarian (angle grinder).
Hammers of various sizes and configurations.
Good lighting.

You also need to stock up on the following materials:

Oxygen and calcium carbide (for gas welding).
Carbon dioxide and copper wire (for semi-automatic welding machine).
Grinding and cutting wheels for metal grinders.
Metal for patches.

To repair the underside of a car with your own hands went without problems, you need to choose the metal of the optimal thickness. Its recommended thickness varies from 1 to 2 mm. But here the qualifications of the one who will carry out the welding work should be taken into account. When working with thinner metal, it is necessary to strictly observe the temperature requirements during welding. Which, in turn, depends on the debugging of the equipment and the quality of consumables.

Thicker metal is more difficult to process, but at the same time it is more difficult to damage and spoil it. Therefore, before purchasing consumables, you need to really assess your qualifications as a welder.

Now you can start preparatory work. There is nothing difficult in this, and it will not be difficult to do them with your own hands. You just need to clean all problem areas of the bottom from rust. This can be done in two ways.

With the help of a grinder. In this case, it is necessary to use both cutting and grinding wheels. During work, be sure to follow all safety rules. It is better to clean hard-to-reach places from rust by gas welding.

After hitting rusty metal and corrosion, the edges of the surface to which the patches will be attached must be well cleaned. It is advisable to do this work with a grinder.Now you can cut out patches from metal and start welding. Cutting metal is best done with hand or electric metal shears. This will allow you to make your workpieces to the exact size and keep the edges straight. Cutting metal, especially thin metal, by welding requires high qualifications.

It is advisable to weld the bottom together. It will be difficult for one person to simultaneously fix the patch and scald it. If the metal is applied to a flat surface, then fix it faster with a semi-automatic welding machine.If it is necessary to make a bend, you should resort to gas welding. When heated, the metal becomes soft and it can be bent and shaped with a hammer. At the same time, do not forget that high temperatures reduce the properties of the metal. Another option in this case can be a special device designed to create bends on metal workpieces.After completing the welding work, all seams must be cleaned with a grinder and covered with anti-corrosion compounds.

In this photo report we will be repairing a 10-year-old “top ten”. Her right sill has completely rotted, as a result, holes appeared in the bottom.

To repair the VAZ thresholds yourself, you will need:

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

- discs for the grinder, 3pcs, 150r.
- disc for stripping, 2 pcs., 60 rubles.
- bracket for grinder, 1pc. (it must be rigid and well compressed), 300r.
- thresholds for VAZ 2110. In this case, a set (connectors and amplifier (1000 rubles)) was required only for the right side.
- a rear fender repair kit may be required (this is the part that goes from the sill to the fender).
- the right side of the bottom from the VAZ 2108 for patches, 500r.
- mastic 2kg., 130r.
- brushes 2pcs, 60r.
- primer, about 200r.
- solvent 646, 50 rubles.

Total: about 2500r.

Required tool:

- a set of auto-tools.
- Bulgarian.
- semiautomatic welding machine 220v
- drill

The rest of the holes in the bottom were repaired in the same way. They cleaned out from below what could have been and missed with mastic. They laid oilcloth, tore the usual bags, laid mastic, Shumka, etc. on top. That is, we make a reverse assembly. Outside, we coat it with soil, this is how it became after the repair:

Replacing the VAZ thresholds with your own hands required 2 full days of time (recall that this is only the right side of the car).

If you decide to provide a replacement for the VAZ 2110 thresholds to specialists, then it should be borne in mind that the price of work for one side is up to 5,000 rubles (that is, 2 times more expensive than when you carry out body repairs yourself).

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If your car's thresholds will require repair

The condition of the vehicle is highly dependent on the bodywork.The suspension can be "bored" by replacing worn out and faulty parts. Attachments are also repaired or replaced at the engine, in severe cases a major overhaul or complete replacement is done. Bodywork determines the appearance of the car and, in many respects, its service life.

New VAZ 2110 from the salon with an ideal body

The first copies of the tenth family had a characteristic feature - the paintwork on the windshield frame at the top peeled off, starting from under the seal. Then this disease was overcome by changing the technology, but the weak points remained.

Already on five-seven-year-old cars, the appearance of corrosion on the thresholds is very likely, and ten-year cars without fail require control of the bottom, arches, side members.

Accelerate the appearance of rust and perforating corrosion, damage in an accident followed by incomplete or unqualified repairs, severe operating conditions on bad roads in winter and in bad weather, storage in high humidity conditions.

Regular anti-corrosion treatment performed in the service or with your own hands will help prolong the life of body parts, especially for the hidden cavities of sills and side members, this power "skeleton" of a car.

The bottom corrodes on both sides. From below it is attacked by mud and water from the road. If the anti-gravel coating is violated, the first foci appear literally in a year, after 2–3 years, with intensive operation, corrosion becomes through.

In the cabin, there is a carpet on the floor, under which there are layers of vibration-insulating and sound-absorbing materials. If water or snow gets into the bottom trough, for example, from shoes, the coating gets wet and dries poorly. Increased constant humidity leads to corrosion of the underbody from the inside of the passenger compartment and the need for repairs. To prevent this, use rubber mats with bumpers, make sure that no water gets into the passenger compartment during rain and washing.

Corrosion due to moisture under the soundproofing material

A rotten bottom is revealed when viewed from below, under a layer of putty or anti-gravel, holes may be visually invisible, but light hammer blows or pricks with an awl will immediately show a defect. Corrosion is most common along the sills and at the feet of the driver and front passenger.

In the cabin, the poor condition of the bottom will be indicated by the flexing of the floor under the feet under load, in extreme cases, a breakdown or inability to fix the driver's seat. And, of course, a common situation when, when the car is lifted on a jack, special thrust pads under the jack break down due to corrosion.

Repair of the bottom can be done by hand, but this requires a good tool, a suitable room, free time, skills and desire.

When working with metal, welding is indispensable. It is optimal to use a semiautomatic welding machine with wire and carbon dioxide, in comparison with gas and electrodes, it is much easier, more convenient and of better quality. An angle grinder is needed when removing rotten floor fragments, for adjusting parts and patches during welding, for cleaning seams and surfaces before processing and assembly.

Semi-automatic welding machine with wire for welding with carbon dioxide

You also need car stands, for example, four pieces of the "rhombus" type. The rest of the tool is standard and more common. Of the materials, you will need welding wire, seam mastic, anticorrosive, sandpaper, primer, paint, soundproof sheets.

For repairs, the car is driven into the room and installed on stands. It should be possible to work comfortably and safely from below under the bottom. The battery and electronic control unit are disconnected to prevent damage during welding. The doors are removed, to maintain the rigidity and geometry of the body, spacers in the doorways are very desirable.