In detail: do-it-yourself bottom repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
It is the bottom in the car that wears out faster than other body elements, due to the fact that it is constantly exposed to aggressive influences from the environment. Various mechanical damages do not pass unnoticed. Using various methods to prevent the development of corrosion, you can try to protect the car body from it, but other types of damage will still manifest themselves someday. The main reason that influences the development of the poor condition of the body is poor-quality road surface. A car that is more than a dozen years old will sooner or later require do-it-yourself underbody repair. We will learn about all kinds of methods that can be carried out without welding.
Sooner or later, the bottom will have to be repaired.
It should be noted right away that all the operations that are carried out with the car body without using welding methods are called unprofessional by experts, in other words, "garage". This is due primarily to the fact that they do not represent the result of any innovative idea implemented in action, most often the properties of the materials or other substances used in the work serve as the basis for independent work.
Such repair of the underside of the car does not have any specific technology that would be checked by the corresponding qualified people or special organizations, it is not burdened by norms and standards. The idea of self-repairing the body, most likely, came to experienced car owners who had ingenuity and were adapted to specific domestic conditions. It is worth noting that in no European country a self-respecting citizen will engage in such actions, moreover, such an idea will not even occur to him. Abroad, damaged body parts are not repaired, a damaged or old car is simply replaced with a new one. The methods of car repair described below allow for the most part to eliminate or hide the through damage to the upper parts of the body or the bottom of the car.
Video (click to play).
Starting the repair of the underbody of a car, you should take into account some requirements and basic rules by which almost all bodywork is carried out:
you must have a grinder with you, with its help it will be possible to cut out a rusted area or expand a damaged area;
the section of the body or bottom, which will be repaired by hand, is pre-cleaned of all unnecessary things, in particular, of old paint, lumps of dirt or rust;
the prepared place must be degreased and treated with anticorrosive;
the hole with the "patch" must be given a primary look, that is, at the end of the repair work, a surface with the original configuration should be formed. Painting putty for cars can be a great helper in this matter;
as a result, the repaired body must be prepared for painting.
VIDEO Masters at car services most often thicken the paint and tell the owner of the car that a rotten bottom requires long painstaking work, the cost of many materials. It is from this that such a high price is formed. At the same time, they try to prevent the owner from being examined or show problem areas in low light. In this case, ordinary dirt can be mistaken for an oxidized rotten metal, which you just touch and it crumbles. With the help of such little tricks, the colors are thickened, which allows to inflate the price.
If the car owner wants to save money, he needs to do a preliminary inspection of the bottom on his own.For this you will need:
Lift, observation pit, overpass.
Good lighting: a torch or a carrier with a powerful lamp.
Hammer.
With the help of a hammer, it is necessary to tap all suspicious areas of the bottom and determine the degree of their damage in order to approximately know the amount of required materials.
If all of the above is not at hand or there is simply not enough time for a thorough inspection, then a special mirror will come to the rescue for inspecting the underside of the car. It will allow you to assess in general terms the condition of the metal and get an approximate idea of the scope of work. But the situation will become fully clear only after a thorough examination.
The welding process itself is simple, everyone can master it in the shortest possible time. Sometimes it takes longer to connect and set up equipment. The easiest way to over-weld the underside of a car is with a semi-automatic welding machine. But often such repairs are simply impossible without the involvement of gas welding. Best of all, when these two units are used, they complement each other and enhance the quality of underbody repairs.
As the saying goes: "If you want to do something well, do it yourself." Car underbody repair is no exception. To implement it, you will need the following equipment:
Semi-automatic welding machine.
Gas welding.
Conventional metal or electric scissors.
Bulgarian (angle grinder).
Hammers of various sizes and configurations.
Good lighting.
You also need to stock up on the following materials:
Oxygen and calcium carbide (for gas welding).
Carbon dioxide and copper wire (for semi-automatic welding machine).
Grinding and cutting wheels for metal grinders.
Metal for patches.
To repair the underside of a car with your own hands went without problems, you need to choose the metal of the optimal thickness. Its recommended thickness varies from 1 to 2 mm. But here the qualifications of the one who will carry out the welding work should be taken into account. When working with thinner metal, it is necessary to strictly observe the temperature requirements during welding. Which, in turn, depends on the debugging of the equipment and the quality of consumables.
Thicker metal is more difficult to process, but at the same time it is more difficult to damage and spoil it. Therefore, before purchasing consumables, you need to really assess your qualifications as a welder.
Now you can start preparatory work. There is nothing difficult in this, and it will not be difficult to do them with your own hands. You just need to clean all problem areas of the bottom from rust. This can be done in two ways.
With the help of a grinder. In this case, it is necessary to use both cutting and grinding wheels. During work, be sure to follow all safety rules. It is better to clean hard-to-reach places from rust by gas welding.
After hitting rusty metal and corrosion, the edges of the surface to which the patches will be attached must be well cleaned. It is advisable to do this work with a grinder. Now you can cut out patches from metal and start welding. Cutting metal is best done with hand or electric metal shears. This will allow you to make your workpieces to the exact size and keep the edges straight. Cutting metal, especially thin metal, by welding requires high qualifications.
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It is advisable to weld the bottom together. It will be difficult for one person to simultaneously fix the patch and scald it. If the metal is applied to a flat surface, then fix it faster with a semi-automatic welding machine.
If it is necessary to make a bend, one should resort to gas welding. When heated, the metal becomes soft and it can be bent and shaped with a hammer.At the same time, do not forget that high temperatures reduce the properties of the metal. Another option in this case can be a special device designed to create bends on metal workpieces.
After completing the welding work, all seams must be cleaned with a grinder and covered with anti-corrosion compounds.
VIDEO This method will save time, money and hassle of the car owner. You will not need to pay huge sums to the masters at the service station or to comprehend the profession of a welder.
It is the bottom in the car that wears out faster than other body elements, due to the fact that it is constantly exposed to aggressive influences from the environment. Various mechanical damages do not pass unnoticed. Using various methods of preventing the development of corrosion, you can try to protect the car body from it, but other types of damage will still manifest themselves someday.
The main reason that influences the development of the poor condition of the body is poor-quality road surface. A car that is more than a dozen years old will sooner or later require do-it-yourself underbody repair. We will learn about all kinds of methods that can be carried out without welding.
It should be noted right away that all the operations that are carried out with the car body without using welding methods are called unprofessional by experts, in other words, "garage". This is due primarily to the fact that they do not represent the result of any innovative idea implemented in action, most often the properties of the materials or other substances used in the work serve as the basis for independent work.
Such repair of the underside of the car does not have any specific technology that would be checked by the corresponding qualified people or special organizations, it is not burdened by norms and standards. The idea of self-repairing the body, most likely, came to experienced car owners who had ingenuity and were adapted to specific domestic conditions. It is worth noting that in no European country a self-respecting citizen will engage in such actions, moreover, such an idea will not even occur to him. Abroad, damaged body parts are not repaired, a damaged or old car is simply replaced with a new one. The methods of car repair described below allow for the most part to eliminate or hide the through damage to the upper parts of the body or the bottom of the car.
Starting the repair of the underbody of a car, you should take into account some requirements and basic rules by which almost all bodywork is carried out:
you must have a grinder with you, with its help it will be possible to cut out a rusted area or expand a damaged area;
the section of the body or bottom, which will be repaired by hand, is pre-cleaned of all unnecessary things, in particular, of old paint, lumps of dirt or rust;
the prepared place must be degreased and treated with anticorrosive;
the hole with the "patch" must be given a primary look, that is, at the end of the repair work, a surface with the original configuration should be formed. Painting putty for cars can be a great helper in this matter;
as a result, the repaired body must be prepared for painting.
To repair the bottom without welding, you will need several galvanized sheets, as well as bolts of a certain size. The damaged body element must be cut out with a grinder. Then you should cut out two measured galvanized sheets, which will cover the leaky area from the outside and inside.The bottom should be treated from all sides with a special bitumen mastic, the substance applied for insulation should dry well. Do not forget about the processing of prepared sheets with mastic before starting their installation.
The first thing to do is to adjust the lower element, it is best to fix it with self-tapping screws, the galvanized sections that protrude must be cut off. The remaining inner metal sheet must then be applied. The resulting structure is fixed with M5 × 15 bolts. For a uniform coverage, it is better to fix it sequentially, strictly along the perimeter.
If the threshold has acquired many dents during operation and needs to be replaced, it is worth trying to save money and repair it yourself. To do this, it is necessary to drill as many holes in the threshold as is needed to adapt a special tool with which the bent sections are straightened. At the end of the work, all holes must be repaired, and the car must be prepared for painting.
Naturally, with free time and at least minimal knowledge, almost any motorist can repair minor damage to the body that occurs during the operation of the car. However, it is worth remembering that it is better to entrust the overhaul of the body to specialists who will help the car return its attractive appearance.
VIDEO Restoring the integrity and appearance of a vehicle using welding is often economically impractical and sometimes impossible or unreliable. Then, methods of repairing bodies without welding are used. It is not recommended to restore load-bearing elements in this way, especially on your own.
General requirements, rules are as follows. If necessary, use a grinder to cut or expand the damaged area. The area to be repaired is cleaned of paint, rust, dirt. They are treated with anticorrosive or zinc, degreased. After sealing the holes at the repair site, a surface of the desired configuration is formed; if necessary, use a painting auto-putty. Then the body is prepared for painting.
Use a fiberglass putty. It is of the following types:
with fine fiberglass;
with averages;
with large ones.
Before starting work, the cleaned metal of the body is primed. Bubbles should be avoided when mixing putty with hardener. The composition is coated first inside, and then laid on top. When the damage is significant, the work is carried out in several stages.Allow one layer to dry, then apply the next. Drying takes place in a natural way.
The use of aluminum mesh makes it possible to repair more significant damage. It is applied to the hole and fixed with tape. At the end of the work, the tape is removed.
For more serious damage, fiberglass and an adhesive, which is prepared from epoxy or polyester resin, are used. Fiberglass is used to reinforce the patch. This method is more reliable than the previous one and also requires preliminary priming.
Several overlays are cut out of fiberglass in the shape of a hole. The size of the former ensures that the damage is overlapped by 2 cm. The subsequent pieces of fiberglass are larger than the previous ones; the latter completely covers the prepared bare metal of the repaired area.
The pads are impregnated with glue and installed, or applied to the damaged surface with the applied glue in ascending order of size. So that the fabric does not sag during work, with large holes, lining is installed. At the end of the work, the resin is allowed time to dry and set. The method is suitable for small damages.
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Used to repair large damage. A patch made of a sheet of metal is tightly pressed against the body, the connection to which is made with solder. To ensure the strength of the soldering, a flux is used. This method is quite simple to implement and even a beginner can do it; in terms of reliability - something between welding and gluing. Solder and flux are selected based on the alloys of the metals to be joined. Soldering is carried out with a high power electric soldering iron.
relatively high cost (due to the high price of solder);
the connection is not strong enough (welding is much more reliable).
Riveted joints are used in the manufacture of bodies - this is a fairly reliable method of repair. Allows you to repair large areas of damage, change solid parts (fenders, aprons, for example). The attachment points should preferably be in an inconspicuous place. This method is better for repairing floors than welding, which in this case is rather unreliable.
The damaged area is cut out, and a new piece of metal or a fragment of a part is put in its place. Rivets must be steel - they are stronger and will not create conditions for electrochemical corrosion, unlike aluminum ones. Diameter 5 mm, for loaded places (in side members) - 6 mm. When replacing parts and their fragments, rivets are set, focusing on the points of factory welding. The rivets are painted before installation. You will need a special device - a riveter.
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The bottom can be repaired with galvanized sheets and bolts. The damaged area is cut out. Two pieces of galvanized steel are cut out - external and internal. The floor is coated with bituminous mastic on both sides. The insulation must dry. Galvanized sheets are also treated with mastic before installation. Install the lower fragment, fix it with self-tapping screws, the protruding parts of which are cut off in the cabin. An inner sheet of metal is applied. The structure is fastened with bolts (M5 x 15 are suitable). Fixation is carried out sequentially along the perimeter to avoid bending of the sheets.
To repair large sill dents requiring replacement, the following can be applied. Several holes are drilled in the threshold, a tool is inserted into them, with which the bent section is straightened. The holes are removed using one of the above methods and, together with the residual dent, are prepared for painting.
The sills and the underside of the car, like many other parts of the body, get damaged over time, which cannot be avoided with intensive use of personal equipment.
But before you repair damaged thresholds, you need to clearly define the restoration methods used in practice. As an option, one should not exclude the possibility of repairing the thresholds of the car without welding. For a better understanding of existing techniques, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the varieties of these body products.
In the design of most machines, only two types of threshold elements are provided. The first - "set" on welding and making up a single whole with the body and the spar, the second - removable or overhead sills.
The second type of thresholds is installed extremely rarely and most often for the purpose of additional protection against mechanical damage and strengthening the body.
The restoration of rigidly fixed thresholds is possible only by leveling the damaged areas, welding them or completely replacing them with new elements. However, not everyone can weld the thresholds with their own hands, even if he has a welding machine.
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Restoring heavily worn removable sills attached to the body by means of special self-tapping screws, as a rule, boils down to updating them. However, the seemingly simple replacement of the thresholds also needs to prepare the body for the upcoming repair.
The main types of damage to thresholds (regardless of their type) and bottom include:
corrosive effect on the material, leading to the formation of rusty cracks and cavities, the protective treatment of which does not bring tangible results.
The first group of malfunctions is associated with the peculiarities of domestic roads and leads to the loss of the vehicle's strength characteristics, and, as a consequence, the impossibility of operating in the previous modes. With a large number of them and damage to the spar, it becomes completely unsafe to drive a car.
Corrosion processes also pose a serious threat to the supporting structure, which increases over time. Despite the many ways to combat corrosion, they, nevertheless, do not allow you to stop the process of destruction, which ultimately leads to the need to replace rotted elements.
With non-removable body parts, the only way out of this situation is the use of welding thresholds by any known method.
The technologies for restoring violations in the structure of these parts are different both in the techniques used in this case and in the cost of the materials used in welding.
The choice of the method of restoring the thresholds and the bottom depends on the nature of the damage received and can be reduced to the following options:
classic welding of non-removable body parts;
straightening of small dents on removable and non-removable elements, for which the former must be dismantled from the car;
replacement for new products (in case of severe damage or rust damage);
do-it-yourself threshold repair without welding using non-standard restoration techniques.
Non-standard applications include fiberglass with epoxy adhesive, as well as a method that allows the thresholds to be pulled out by means of special mechanisms. The latter method allows you to completely restore the previous form of products of any car (including the well-known brand VAZ).
One of the varieties of pulling the thresholds involves the use of special vacuum inverters, with the help of which any deformation (dent, for example) is straightened out due to the pressure difference inside and outside the structure.
Repairing the bottom without the help of welding can consist in regular inspection of the straightening, cleaning and painting.
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The restoration of the thresholds of a non-removable type and the bottom can be started only after placing the car on a repair ramp or on a pit with a size sufficient for welding. The bottom is inspected by tapping with a hammer.
In case of severe rust damage, it is necessary to clean the surface around the cut-in place using sandpaper or a grinding tool .
Body repair by means of welding, including bottom welding, is reduced to installing a small patch of metal of the same structure and thickness on the damaged place.
If painting after welding is not expected, then the appropriate color of the patch should be selected in advance, which, together with the threshold after repair, should be carefully sanded and treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
If you have a certain skill and the necessary tool (semi-automatic or gas welding), everyone can repair the thresholds and the bottom with their own hands. In addition to tools and materials, you only need a little free time and desire.
Assessing the current state of the car is largely possible through the analysis of the body. If all kinds of consumables are to be replaced, the suspension is really even possible to sort out with your own hands and even install a new engine, then restoring a completely rusted body is expensive and pointless.
Nobody will tune, modify, invest a lot of money in a car if its body is already living out its last years. This significantly reduces the cost of the car, even if the engine is in perfect condition.
Therefore, if you want to keep the attractive appearance of your VAZ 2110, extend its service life, if necessary, sell it for good money, keep an eye on the body and periodically carry out repair or preventive body work aimed at combating corrosion.
The first versions of the VAZ 2110 were characterized by the fact that their paintwork began to peel off in the area of the windshield frame. The problem began to develop from the seal and gradually spread to the entire body element.
Soon the manufacturer changed the painting and installation technology, but still the problem of the body unstable to corrosion could not be completely overcome.
We will consider the main reasons for the likely appearance of rust on the sills, bottom, arches, side members. We will also give some tips on how to deal with them.
Prevention measures
After 5-7 years, traces of corrosion may appear on the body and bottom. There are no remedies against age, so listen to the following protection measures
It is easy to advise avoiding accidents. In this case, this is the only recommendation.
Do not try to save money on body repair, as an unqualified specialist will not really do anything, but will only take your time and money. Choose experienced, proven craftsmen and service stations
The worst is snow and rain. Try to knock down and wash away the snow adhering under the bottom. Especially if you frequently drive on roads sprinkled with salt or ice and snow melting agents
Think about the issues of moisture protection of the room, in winter periodically turn on the heater, heat fan in the garage in order to at least partially combat the high level of rust
Small stones destroy the anti-gravel coating within a year, after which corrosion begins to appear. Avoid these roads, carry out periodic preventive maintenance
It gets into the car through wet shoes and snow. From this, the bottom begins to rot from the inside. Be sure to lay rubber mats with sides in winter, carefully make sure that water does not get inside the cabin during rain or washing
To prolong the life of your own car's underbody, periodically do anti-corrosion treatments.Pay particular attention to the hidden cavities of the side members and sills.
Determining the presence of rust on the bottom is not difficult. Although if you bought a car hand-held, these problems can be carefully disguised.
Be sure to inspect the body from below. Traces of corrosion can be hidden behind a layer of anti-gravel coating or putty. Use a hammer or awl to strike lightly in these areas. If rust is present, you will see it.
Check the condition of the body along the sills, in the cabin at the feet of the driver and front passenger. It is these places that are quite weak in the case of the VAZ 2110.
If the bottom is rotten, you can see this by the flexing of the floor under your feet under load.
When the driver's seat breaks off or cannot be moved, a rotten body can also be the cause.
One of the most unpleasant situations is rotten thrust pads designed for lifting a car on a jack. But in this way you will immediately determine that there are problems and they need to be solved.
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In order to repair the bottom with your own hands, for this you first need to prepare in a certain way. You will need a set of tools, a room, a lot of time, experience and a desire to do such things.
It is especially important to prepare the following components from tools:
Welding machine. In the case of repairing the bottom of the car, it is better to use a semiautomatic device with wire and carbon dioxide. It is better, more efficient and more reliable than gas and electrodes;
Angle grinder. It will come in handy if necessary to remove rust from the floor, to fit elements and patches, to clean seams and surfaces;
Car stands. Various items can be used here. So look for what you have;
The rest of the kit is standard and includes components such as anti-corrosion solution, joint compound, welding wire, sandpaper, primer, soundproofing sheets, paint, etc.
Now you need to drive the car into a garage or other equipment in the room, put it on stands.
The machine should be positioned in such a way that it is convenient and safe to work underneath it.
Disconnect the battery, then remove the doors. In this case, experts advise to provide for the presence of spacers for doorways in order to maintain the rigidity of the body and the required geometry.
Since the underbody needs to be repaired not only under the car, but also from the inside, you will have to completely disassemble the interior. This is a difficult and time-consuming task. Be prepared for this psychologically. You will have to dismantle:
Armchairs;
Floor tunnel lining;
Carpets;
Air ducts;
Soundproofing layer.
Collect all the wiring carefully, combine it into bundles, if they are not assembled, so that later there will be no problems with the assembly. Collect all fasteners, distribute them in boxes or bags, sign. This is extremely important as you can run into serious problems later on.
If you plan to completely replace the bottom or weld the panel to the floor, then the dashboard and beard will have to be removed in order to create open access to the engine shield.
So, you have disassembled your VAZ 2110, so now you can really assess the condition of the bottom, as well as analyze the required amount of work. The most optimal situation is one that does not require replacement of elements. Rust spots are cleaned to obtain high-quality metal, after which they are reinforced with patches. But not everyone is able to face such a situation.
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If the holes in the bottom turn out to be through, this will lead to a loss of body rigidity, therefore it is strongly recommended to replace the element completely. In the case of the VAZ 2110, the following body elements are distinguished:
Floor panels;
Support platforms;
Threshold extension;
Spar extension;
Crossbar;
Connectors.
Now let's discuss a few basic nuances of welding.
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To replace a part that has “slipped” due to corrosion, it must be drilled out at the welded points or simply cut off with a grinder.
Do not forget that the brake and fuel lines pass under the bottom. It is extremely difficult to dismantle them, therefore the easiest way is to cut, and when reassembling, install new pipeline elements.
If the floor panels are in critical condition, the complete bottom assembly should be replaced. But in this case, be sure to dismantle the exhaust system.
If necessary, change the thresholds, they are dismantled and new ones are installed one by one. It is important to control the geometry.
If the replacement of the floor and the thresholds is carried out simultaneously, the thresholds are changed first, and only then the floor panels.
Carefully mark the elements to be welded. Old components must strictly match those cut out by new ones.
You cannot do without an assistant, so make an appointment in advance with someone who can help you.
Always start the bottom from the bottom, then grab it.
Do not do the main weld with a solid seam. Observe a step of about 4-5 centimeters.
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When the welding work is finished, be sure to carry out the anti-corrosion treatment.
Now the state of the new, or rather the updated, body should be brought to perfection, provide the necessary high level of protection against corrosion, destructive rust, gravel and other troubles. To do this, perform several sequential operations:
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Strip the metal by removing the scale, achieving a gloss;
Lubricate surfaces with a joint compound;
Treat metal elements with a primer;
Apply a coat of paint to match the body color;
Outside, treat the bottom with mastic and anti-gravel composition;
Measure carefully, and then cut out the sheet soundproofing with scissors. It is heated with an industrial hair dryer and placed on the bottom. This is when it comes to bituminous noise.
Now the work on repairing the underbody of your car is approaching its logical conclusion. However, a difficult, crucial stage of reassembly awaits you ahead. Therefore, we strongly do not recommend relaxing.
If you correctly disassemble the passenger compartment and dismantle the bottom elements, there should be no problems with their assembly. We advise you to prescribe each stage, record on video, sign each bag with fasteners.
As you can see, it is quite possible to repair the bottom yourself. Just do not work at random, without prior preparation and appropriate tools. This is a good way to save money, but in the absence of experience and skills, it is better to contact specialized service stations with similar problems.
It is the bottom in the car that wears out faster than other body elements, due to the fact that it is constantly exposed to aggressive influences from the environment. Various mechanical damages do not pass unnoticed. Using various methods to prevent the development of corrosion, you can try to protect the car body from it, but other types of damage will still manifest themselves someday.
The main reason that influences the development of the poor condition of the body is poor-quality road surface. A car that is more than a dozen years old will sooner or later require do-it-yourself underbody repair. We will learn about all kinds of methods that can be carried out without welding.
BOTTOM REPAIR BY WELDLESS METHODS
It should be noted right away that all the operations that are carried out with the car body without using welding methods are called unprofessional by experts, in other words, "garage".This is due primarily to the fact that they do not represent the result of any innovative idea implemented in action, most often the properties of the materials or other substances used in the work serve as the basis for independent work.
Such repair of the underside of the car does not have any specific technology that would be checked by the corresponding qualified people or special organizations, it is not burdened by norms and standards. The idea of self-repairing the body, most likely, came to experienced car owners who had ingenuity and were adapted to specific domestic conditions. It is worth noting that in no European country a self-respecting citizen will engage in such actions, moreover, such an idea will not even occur to him. Abroad, damaged body parts are not repaired, a damaged or old car is simply replaced with a new one. The methods of car repair described below allow for the most part to eliminate or hide the through damage to the upper parts of the body or the bottom of the car.
Starting the repair of the underbody of a car, you should take into account some requirements and basic rules by which almost all bodywork is carried out:
you must have a grinder with you, with its help it will be possible to cut out a rusted area or expand a damaged area;
the section of the body or bottom, which will be repaired by hand, is pre-cleaned of all unnecessary things, in particular, of old paint, lumps of dirt or rust;
the prepared place must be degreased and treated with anticorrosive;
the hole with the "patch" must be given a primary look, that is, at the end of the repair work, a surface with the original configuration should be formed. Painting putty for cars can be a great helper in this matter;
as a result, the repaired body must be prepared for painting.
THE MOST COMMON METHODS OF BOTTOM REPAIR
To repair the bottom without welding, you will need several galvanized sheets, as well as bolts of a certain size. The damaged body element must be cut out with a grinder. Then you should cut out two measured galvanized sheets, which will cover the leaky area from the outside and inside. The bottom should be treated from all sides with a special bitumen mastic, the substance applied for insulation should dry well. Do not forget about the processing of prepared sheets with mastic before starting their installation.
The first thing to do is to adjust the lower element, it is best to fix it with self-tapping screws, the galvanized sections that protrude must be cut off. The remaining inner metal sheet must then be applied. The resulting structure is fixed with M5 × 15 bolts. For a uniform coverage, it is better to fix it sequentially, strictly along the perimeter.
If the threshold has acquired many dents during operation and needs to be replaced, it is worth trying to save money and repair it yourself. To do this, it is necessary to drill as many holes in the threshold as is needed to adapt a special tool with which the bent sections are straightened. At the end of the work, all holes must be repaired, and the car must be prepared for painting.
Naturally, with free time and at least minimal knowledge, almost any motorist can repair minor damage to the body that occurs during the operation of the car. However, it is worth remembering that it is better to entrust the overhaul of the body to specialists who will help the car return its attractive appearance.
Video (click to play).
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