DIY road repair

Unfortunately, the roads and sidewalks, which are in a deplorable state, are still one of the main problems in both large and small Russian cities. The change of seasons in most of our regions is characterized by sharp temperature changes, which leads to rapid wear and tear of even new asphalt, which, to be honest, is often laid in violation of the necessary technologies. The local authorities, perhaps, were happy to help the problem, but alas, very little budget funds are allocated for this, and only a small part of the holes can be patched. Especially urban-type settlements suffer from this, where the bulk of the roads are unpaved, which are constantly eroded and destroyed, and the main method of repairing them is grading, that is, leveling.

Despite the existence in Russia of the standard, according to which any pothole, the dimensions of which have exceeded the established number of centimeters (length no more than 15 cm, width no more than 60 cm, depth no more than 5 cm), must be eliminated, in fact, the repair of a particular pit is often necessary wait for years. In this situation, local activists are increasingly taking matters into their own hands.

There are several ways by which our citizens effectively, and even effectively, carry out road repairs on their own. The simplest of them is to fill the resulting hole with rubble (as an option - with pieces of bricks) mixed with sand. This method usually provides normal movement over the patch for a period of several weeks to several months, after which, unfortunately, everything has to be repeated again. Its main advantage is, however, the comparative free of charge: both crushed stone and sand, in principle, can be easily found in our settlements, in addition, this method is suitable for "repairing" both asphalt and dirt roads.

A slightly more reliable option is to fill the pothole with cement. This building material is also readily available and relatively cheap - a bag weighing 50 kilograms costs from 250 rubles. At the same time, a cement patch can last much longer than a crushed stone.

A more progressive method of repairing an asphalt pavement that does not require the use of special equipment is the use of so-called cold asphalt - a ready-made mixture of asphalt, crushed stone and special additives, the proportion of which in the finished mixture reaches 35% of the mass of bitumen, which improve the operational properties of the mixture, making it stronger. Cold asphalt can be laid in normal temperature conditions, without heating, and even in winter, at temperatures up to 20 degrees below zero. Its cost ranges from 400 to 600 rubles per bag weighing 50 kilograms, while one bag is enough for about 1 sq. using improvised means: a seam cutter to determine the boundaries of the patch, a jackhammer to remove pieces of old asphalt (you can, however, do with the usual scrap), as well as a vibrating plate or a garden roller to compact the resulting coating (although there is an option in which the asphalt is crushed naturally for traffic account).

Using these methods, local activists are actively involved in road repairs throughout the country: both alone, and together, and in whole movements, both with the help of social networks and communities on the Internet.At the same time, one should not forget that for unauthorized road repair, in accordance with the current legislation in accordance with Article 12.33 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation (damage to roads, railway crossings or other road structures), a fine is imposed. However, the main complaint of law enforcement agencies against voluntary repairmen is not the fact of the repair itself, but that it is carried out with violations: temporary road signs warning of work are not displayed, vehicle traffic is interfered with, etc.

It was for this, by the way, and not for a noble impulse, that a contractor hired by tenants to repair a road near one of the houses in Astrakhan in a sensational case this summer was fined by tenants. Obviously, in the case of road repairs associated with the involvement of a contractor, you should first of all contact entrepreneurs who know both the formal and informal aspects of the process and have an active positive experience of cooperation in this area with local authorities.

In settlements with unpaved roads, local authorities, with the assistance of construction organizations working in the area, are quite capable of organizing emergency crushed stone storage facilities, which residents could use for emergency backfilling of holes at their discretion. Of course, there may be a fear that some not too responsible citizen wants to take a bag or two of rubble on his site for personal use, but here the issue of control and accounting should already be taken over by initiative citizens themselves.

In addition, local authorities could themselves initiate subbotniks with the involvement of the population to fill holes in the most problematic areas, as well as training seminars for activists on advanced methods of spot repair of roads. It is possible to help negotiate with construction organizations for the provision of asphalt paving equipment, if initiative citizens are ready to pay for its rent and the work of the operator. Well, and do not forget, of course, at the same time, nevertheless, to repair the roads ourselves, if there are budget funds for this.

In general, there are a huge number of options, as well as problem areas on our roads, which, we hope, will become less and less in the future.

If you liked the article, recommend it to your friends, acquaintances or colleagues related to municipal or public service. It seems to us that it will be both useful and pleasant for them.
When reprinting materials, a reference to the source is required.

It is a mixture of bitumen and stone material with the addition of a solvent. The main advantage of such cold mixes is that you do not need any special equipment and experience to lay it. Cold asphalt is laid under normal temperature conditions, without heating. Suitable for private and professional use.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

For unauthorized road repairs, a fine can be issued. In accordance with article 12.33. The Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation for damage to roads that poses a threat to road safety, as well as deliberate interference in traffic, including by contaminating the road surface, provides for administrative liability of officials in the form of a fine of 25,000 rubles.

So, for example, the Astrakhan people, who themselves repaired the road, were fined. Representatives of the traffic police and the municipal control service arrived at the scene. They issued a fine to the contractor, which was repairing the road in the courtyard at the initiative of the tenants. The amount of the fine is 25 thousand rubles.

Have you ever had to do patchwork? How was the help organized and how long did it last? By the way, it is not uncommon for road repairs to be carried out with planks, broken bricks, carpets, tires, etc. Such assistance can, on the contrary, be harmful. It is better to use old tires in a different way. By the way, do you know how to increase the cross-country ability of a car?

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.

Have you ever had to repair the road on your own?

Many have heard about the two notorious Russian problems. And if it is practically useless to fight with one of them, then the second, concerning the lack of roads, can be completely solved independently. This is very important on a relatively small scale, related to their own suburban area and the adjacent territory.

In this article, we will consider ways that, with some effort, will allow you to strengthen the road, make your own access roads to a suburban area.

The width of a public dirt road must be sufficient to allow two vehicles to pass at the same time. Ideally, it should be 4 ... 5 meters. If the road leads directly to the gates of your summer cottage, and only you will use it, then 2 meters wide will be enough for such a summer cottage path.

How to build a road with your own hands: an economical option based on crushed stone and slag

In order to get rid of dirt and slush, it is enough to cover the driveways with rubble, gravel, slag or asphalt chips. According to the experience of numerous builders, this option is quite practical, especially if it is correctly implemented.

Here is what one of the users of our forum writes about a similar method of arranging a dirt road.

My experience of building a road without the use of nanotechnology. 30-40 meters to the site lay really through the swamp, which dried out at least by July.
How my road to the site was made with my own hands:

• A ditch 1 m deep was dug along a section of the road - an excavator (RUB 700);
• The soil fell out onto the road;
• One and a half KamAZ big buta (I was lucky - the curbs were changed in the city - almost a freebie) - 3-4 tons R;
• 3 KamAZ asphalt crumb - 12 thousand rubles

In total, approximately 16 tr. The road turned out no worse than in the city. The observation period was 4 years. No changes were noticed. Is it just a small track from heavy machinery and unevenness from uneven asphalt distribution.

But this is a special case. To create a cheap dirt road with your own hands, there has long been a reliable and time-tested technology, and in most cases it will be correct to use it.

The construction of such a road is carried out in a certain sequence. First of all, a fertile (vegetative) layer 25-30 cm thick is removed from the soil surface. This is done using a grader or other specialized road-building equipment.

The result is a kind of trough, the bottom of which should be made in the form of a gable profile.This is done to drain rainwater from the roadway into small ditches formed along the edges of the future road.

The bottom of the profiled "trough" can be tamped with a single drum, after which a sand cushion should be created on its surface. It is designed to improve the drainage qualities of the future road. The thickness of the sand layer should be 15–20 cm. The sand should be tamped down and a layer of rubble should be laid on top of it. Gravel, slag or asphalt chips can also be used as topcoats. The thickness of the top layer should be within 20 centimeters - in the middle of the road and about 10 cm - along its edges.

How to strengthen the road in the country

After the implementation of the above measures, the dirt road to your suburban area can be considered ready. It remains only to tamp its surface with a roller or, in extreme cases, with a truck that was used to deliver gravel. Although this option of a primer is relatively reliable, its durability can be questioned (especially under intensive operating conditions) and will soon require repair. Here's what our forum member says about this.

Crushed stone, fraction 40-70 10 cm, went into the ground after spring, I am observing the second season. It's about the same with secondary crushed stone. The car does not get stuck, but the soul is no longer happy, it is dirty on foot.

At FORUMHOUSE you will learn how to repair a dirt road with your own hands, and who should pay for it in a holiday village.

Conclusion: so that the bulk coatings do not creep over time, and their layers are clearly separated from each other, it is correct to use more advanced, but also more expensive technologies. They require the use of materials such as geotextile, geogrid or volumetric geogrid.

Geotextile (doronite) is a special synthetic fabric used in road construction to separate the bulk layers. It is highly durable and allows moisture to pass through without hindrance. If at the base of the future road lies solid and stable soil, then during its construction it is possible to do with the use of geotextiles and bulk materials listed in the previous chapter. Geotextiles are laid on clean and compacted soil, after which they are covered with a layer of sand and gravel (instead of gravel, you can use crushed stone, slag or asphalt chips). This avoids mixing of the subsoil with the fill layers. As a result, the gravel will not mix with the mud, and the road is guaranteed to serve you for several years without major repairs. It will be easy to drive along it both in dry and rainy weather.

Sometimes, when using geotextiles, builders exclude sand from the construction of the roadway. But practice shows that it is better with him than without him.

Geogrid is a flat reinforcing material with a cellular structure. It is based on modern composites capable of withstanding high longitudinal and transverse loads. The geogrid effectively distributes horizontal external forces, preventing the spread of bulk materials that make up highways.

It is recommended to use a geogrid complete with geotextiles. This approach will help to avoid the penetration of the upper layers of the road surface into the base soil and strengthen the crushed stone (gravel) layer.

The combined use of a geogrid with a geotextile makes it possible to completely exclude a layer of sand from the structure of a dirt road. But 10 cm of sand between the geotextile and the geogrid will help reduce the load on the doronite and certainly will not harm the road surface. The correct sequence for road construction in this case will be as follows:

1. Removal of the vegetation layer and soil compaction.
2. Geotextile laying.
3. Backfilling of geotextiles with sand.
4. Geogrid laying.
5. Backfilling the road with gravel, rubble or other suitable materials.
6. Rolling the top layer of the road.

In this case, when removing the fertile layer, you should not go too deep. It will be enough 15-20 cm. The crushed stone layer will also not exceed 10 cm.

Some people when building a country road based on a geogrid, trying to save money, avoid using geotextiles, limiting themselves to using sand. And here's what our forum users think about this.

With further exploitation, the sand will still go into the ground, the geogrid will sag, the rubble will go away. I think so, this option is before the first rains and heavy traffic. I am in favor of strengthening with geotextiles.

Road construction using a geogrid

A geogrid is a three-dimensional composite structure made in the form of a honeycomb. To date, it is the most promising structure that provides volumetric reinforcement of the road soil. And if you want not only cars, but also small trucks to drive on your road without fear, you need to use a strong geogrid during its construction.

The most optimal technology for the construction of a dirt road using this material is the laying of geotextiles on compacted soil, followed by the installation of a geogrid on top of doronite. Most manufacturers recommend immediately filling the grating with rubble (or similar materials). A layer of rubble must be made just above the grate. If the height of the grate is 5 cm, then the thickness of the crushed stone should be about 7 cm, and so on. This, as we said, is a manufacturer's recommendation. But our members of the forum would readily modify this design. So, the user Zack75 believes that for personal needs, you can first cover the geotextile with sand, and then lay a lattice on top of these materials.

Yes, this idea is quite possible to take note of. And even without sand, you can get a very strong and durable road surface.

If you want to get practical advice on the independent construction of a dirt road, as well as take note of the existing developments of our users, then we advise you to visit the forum thread regarding the construction and strengthening of a dirt road. And you can take part in the discussion of the most popular road issues in the topic "Land and property in common use"

Patching is a normal worldwide practice in road maintenance and repair. According to modern requirements, major repairs of the road should be carried out if more than 12% of the road surface is destroyed. This guide describes how to properly repair the road.

Conventionally, road repair technologies can be divided into three groups:

1. The first group is repair using hot technology, that is, the pavement is repaired using hot asphalt concrete mixture. Today this is the most common method, its main advantage is the high strength of the coating. At the same time, hot technology is highly dependent on weather and process compliance.
2. The second group includes repairs using cold bitumen-containing mixtures. This technology is not as complicated as hot technology and can be used almost all year round. But the strength of the coating is 2-3 times lower than that of the traditional, hot method.
3. The third group is mixtures that are unconventional for the road industry. They can be based on cement, polymer materials, the same bitumen, but in combination with other binders. As a rule, such mixtures are used only in emergency cases or on special sections of routes, for example, on bridges.

Having the minimum required set of equipment and tools, you can well repair the road. First you need to prepare the necessary materials:

• seam cutter;
• compressor;
• jackhammer;
• road milling machine (cold milling cutter);
• vibrating plate or mini-skating rink.

Consider patching a road based on hot asphalt concrete technology. This standard is the most widespread and time-tested. The patching process itself takes place in several stages:

1. The first step is to mark the boundaries of the future patch. The border should go over the whole surface, it is necessary to capture at least five centimeters from the edge of the hole.
2. The future "patch" should not have sharp corners, otherwise it will not last long.
3. In the case when the pothole occupies more than half of the road lane, repairs are made to its entire width. In this case, the "map" of the repair will have a rectangular shape.
4. Using the seam cutter, the borders are cut to the required depth. Typically, this is the full thickness of the pavement.
5. The cutter removes the damaged coating layer.
6. Use a jackhammer to remove the remaining material.
7. Spill the bottom and edges of the pit with a bituminous mixture.
8. A new layer of asphalt concrete is being laid.
9. With the help of a vibrating plate or minikatka, the asphalt-concrete mixture is rammed.

It is much easier to repair a dirt road. On the other hand, as practice shows, patching of a dirt road is not enough for a long time, and soon enough you will still have to resort to heavy equipment.

The main damage to the dirt road occurs when it is operated in a wet state. It is then that potholes and ruts appear on the road.

For a partial repair of a dirt road it is necessary:

1. Be sure to wait until the road is dry.
2. Fill the pothole with gravel, clay, or a mixture of gravel and bitumen.
3. Tamp the patch with a vibrating plate or mini-roller.

Despite the fact that road repair is the lot of specialized enterprises, small defects in the coating can be eliminated on our own. After all, it is far from always possible to promptly call a repair team into the courtyard of even an apartment building.

All materials and tools for road repair are readily available in hardware stores and will never be superfluous in the house. In addition, if you do not quickly repair a small pothole or crack in the asphalt, in a year you will have to face a serious defect in the pavement. And it cannot be effectively eliminated on its own.

Of the tools you may need:

• chisel;
• hammer;
• Master OK;
• spatulas of various widths;
• brush;
• knife;
• tar gun;
• tamping device;

In addition, we need materials:

• tar;
• sand;
• bituminous tape or "cold" asphalt.

The damage to the coating that will have to be repaired can be of a different nature. The simplest is a crack.

To seal the crack, you must:

1. Clean the crack from dust with a brush.
2. If the crack is deep enough, fill it up a third with sand.
3. Fill the defect with tar using a special pistol.
4. After a quarter of an hour, level the surface with a spatula.

1. We clean the surface to be repaired.
2. Take a roll of bitumen tape.
3. Remove the protective layer and place it on the road with the adhesive side.
4. Press firmly for a few seconds.

However, these methods are only suitable for patching small damages, and in the case of bitumen tape, only small cracks at an early stage.

If the defect is serious, you will have to use an asphalt mixture.

1. We thoroughly clean the pit, align the edges. In no case should they crumble. A chisel and a hammer will help us here.
2. We fill in the mixture in such a way that it protrudes 3 centimeters above the road surface.
3. After 5 minutes, thoroughly ram the mixture.
4. If the hole is deep, fill it in two layers. And tamp each layer thoroughly.

Undeveloped access roads to the site are a traditional problem for any person who is planning to build a house.In spring or autumn, as soon as the snow melts or the rain passes through, dirt roads turn into an obstacle course, which can only be driven by an all-wheel drive SUV or tractor. In addition, the broken paths are often insurmountable for heavy construction equipment. Mixers with concrete, manipulators, trucks with wall blocks and floor slabs are stuck in the mud. As a result, construction deadlines are disrupted, the developer wastes nerves and money, and is looking for a way to make a high-quality and relatively inexpensive access road.

In this article, we will talk about the technology of soil stabilization, which is not widely used in private construction, using lime, liquid glass and cement.

• The advantages of industrial soil stabilization technology.
• How to strengthen the access dirt road with your own hands.

Poor public roads and poor access roads to private land is a traditional Russian problem. A common picture: after the end of winter, asphalt leaves the roads along with snow, and dirt paths in villages and suburban settlements resemble a mess of mud.

Most often, road workers complain about our harsh climatic conditions, which the roadway simply cannot withstand. In rural areas, residents complain that no matter how much concrete or brick battle or rubble is dumped onto the road, it will still go underground in the spring. Every year the situation repeats itself over and over again. Is there a way out of this situation?

Abroad, in particular in Germany and the USA, soil stabilization technology has been used for decades. The method allows, in the shortest possible time and at relatively low cost, to build kilometers of reliable and durable roads.

Such a road is completely ready for paving asphalt concrete (highway construction) or can be used as a regular dirt road or as an access road (without asphalt pavement), on which cars and trucks can drive.

Before we talk about this technique, a little theory. Even the highest quality asphalt, if put on an unstable - subsiding base, will soon deform. Water will get into the cracks, and the sandy "pillow" will be lifted by the forces of frost heaving. In the future, freezing and thawing cycles will lead to an increase in cracks, rutting, and accelerated wear (under traffic load) of the road surface.

Conclusion: a high-quality road needs a solid foundation... This is also important for a typical rural access road. Therefore, a well-prepared soil base (as well as for the foundation of a house) is the base of the entire road.

The standard technology for preparing a road base is to create a "cushion" of sand and gravel. For this, the top vegetative layer of the soil is removed and the surface is leveled. Then a layer of sand is laid, which is compacted. Crushed stone is laid on it, after which the asphalt concrete is “spread”.

• high cost, because it is necessary to import a lot of expensive building materials and "drive" heavy construction equipment;
• a large amount of earthworks;
• fragility.

The last point is especially important. You can still put up with high costs if a high-quality result is guaranteed, but often soon the "pillow" becomes waterlogged, the coating becomes unusable, and you have to deal with spot repairs of the road again.

Soil stabilization technology allows you to get rid of the standard sand and crushed stone "cushion", reduce the number of construction equipment, carry out all the stages of preparation of the base in fact in one step, and at the same time obtain a wear-resistant, hard and waterproof coating.

The essence of the technology is as follows: a special harvester - a recycler machine - is moving along the road to be repaired or along the newly constructed path.

The recycler is equipped with carbide cutters that rotate in a drum. The harvester, moving, crushes the old road surface.The main nuance: a special chemical solution is fed into the drum with cutters - an additive dissolved in water - a water repellent, and a binder component - cement.

The proportions of the water-cement mixture and its dosage are selected based on the composition of the ground to be ground.

The result is a waterproof modified solid base, which is compacted after the passage of graders and vibratory rollers. After the final set of strength of the soil cement, heavy-duty vehicles can easily ride on it.

The economic feasibility of the method lies in the high speed of construction. There is no need to import tens and hundreds of tons of sand and gravel. Because the recycler uses "native" soil (after removing the fertile layer), which is already on the road, including loam, sand, crushed stone, remnants of worn out asphalt, etc.

Accordingly: the price for 1 sq. m of such a covering, which serves for many years and does not need repair or regular renewal.

Having considered the well-proven industrial method, we turn to the variant of its application for "private traders". The standard technology that ordinary developers use when they want to equip driveways is ordering trucks with construction waste. It can be waste from a demolished high-rise building, brick or concrete battle.

All this mass is unloaded in heaps onto the access road that "floated" in the spring, the battle is leveled by a bulldozer and compacted by a tractor. Then on this base (if funds are available), asphalt chips or limestone (cheaper than granite) crushed stone are additionally poured. The result of this activity is that the access road “works” only for one or two construction seasons. After that, all this mass “leaves” unevenly into the ground.

Over the summer, trucks fill deep ruts in the dirt road, which in the spring are again filled with water, and the road repair has to be repeated anew. And this is new expenses and money actually buried in the ground.

Borodak FORUMHOUSE User

I have a site and I started building. The soil on the site is clay. As soon as it gets wet, it becomes like plasticine. The tractor buries itself up to its belly. The access road is also problematic. There are no drainage ditches on the sides. A truck with sand on a dirt road skids and digs deep ruts. I had to pull it out. According to the stories of neighbors, the road was "ruled" by repeated pouring of asphalt crumbs, but there was little sense from this. I want to make the entrance to the site, but so as not to go broke on this. I heard about the soil liming method, I wondered - does it work?

In the photo below, the plot and the Borodak access road.

imorsh FORUMHOUSE user

I do not advise you to deal with road improvement during the winter months. In November, a few years ago, people did not wait for frost in our country, they drove a tractor off-road, which was drowned in the mud. I had to dig it out later. It is better to wait until everything is dry, make a drainage system, and then start building a primer. I heard about the use of lime to strengthen the road, but I did not do it myself.

One of the factors complicating the construction of a durable dirt road in the village is the lack of drainage from the roadbed. As a result, the soil becomes waterlogged, with all the ensuing negative consequences. Therefore, first of all, it is required to equip drainage ditches.

So the water will go away faster, and the road will dry up.

Because Borodak could not wait, he had the following idea:

1. Hire workers and dig drainage trenches along the road, 0.3-0.4 m deep.
2. Loosen the soil.
3. Pour lime on it.
4. Stir the soil with lime.
5. Tamp the soil.
6. Repeat the operation, thus creating 2-3 layers.

DENdi FORUMHOUSE user

In winter I tried to pour slaked lime on the ground - freshly quenched milk (lime dissolved in water).The ground has become noticeably harder, but the heavy truck will probably not pass, I think to repeat the procedure.

Bulatov FORUMHOUSE user

I suffered for a long time with the soil on the site - peat with clay, as a result, in the spring, the cars fell through. I decided to apply liming. Diluted lime in water in a proportion of 3 kg per 10 liters. I spilled the soil with slaked lime. I waited a month. Result: The ground was harder and the car did not collapse.

The lime strengthening method is based on the ability of calcium hydroxide to absorb moisture.

The method of liming soil in our country was used as early as 1926-30s. It has shown good results in road construction when arranging roads on moisture-saturated soil.

The disadvantage of this method is the low frost resistance of the soil treated with lime.

Another similar method is soil silicating, i.e. soil treatment with liquid glass. The method was also successfully tested on experimental road sections in the 1920s in the USSR. In addition, during the Great Patriotic War, the soldiers of the advancing Red Army used the method of silicating "broken" dirt roads to strengthen them so that military equipment could pass along them.

When liquid glass interacts with soil, a gradually hardening gel is formed, which binds soil particles to each other.

The method is also not widely used due to low frost resistance. We turn to the consideration of the third method - soil cementation, which generally repeats the industrial method described above.

Denengine FORUMHOUSE User

I took as a basis the method of soil stabilization and strengthening with cement, having read about it in a book published in the USSR back in 1941! Bought the following equipment:

• walk-behind tractor with cutters for grinding soil to a depth of 20-25 cm;
• a vibrating plate with a gasoline drive weighing 90 kg;
• cement M500 - 50 bags, 50 kg each;
• household soap powder 60 bags, you can use liquid technical soap.

Denengine worked like this: they took cement, at the rate of 5-7% of the volume of the mixed soil, and spread it evenly on the road. Then he plowed the soil several times with a walk-behind tractor for uniform mixing of the soil cement. Added powder soap, moistened the road. I plowed everything up 3 more times, and then walked along the road with a vibrating plate twice.

The result is a waterproof and durable finish.

Even after heavy rains, the jeep does not leave tire marks on the road.

The cost of arranging the primer was 23 thousand rubles.

According to the user, after the start of construction, this road was followed by: an excavator, 16 trucks, a manipulator fully loaded with FBS blocks and road slabs. All transport calmly drove along the road, did not get stuck and did not "kill" the dirt road.

The season has shown that in a dry state the road resembles compacted asphalt. I reinforced the roadway only to a depth of about 15 cm. After passing the trucks, the road was slightly broken, but not critical. In the summer, I will repeat the strengthening of the soil.

Summarizing: construction practice shows that it is often not necessary to look for some kind of miracle methods for arranging access roads. Everything has been invented for a long time and is "well forgotten old". You just need to follow proven solutions.

And those portal users who would like to learn about the "standard" methods of building primers and "pies" of road surfaces based on geotextiles, crushed stone and sand, can read about it in the second part of the article. Stay tuned for updates on the portal!

The FORUMHOUSE topic discusses the method of strengthening the soil with lime, water glass and cement. This article tells about the legal aspects of self-construction of access roads to the site and the nuances of choosing a land for development.

The roads leading to a private house are easier to arrange on your own: local authorities and ordinary highways are rarely repaired.Therefore, comfortable transport links from the main highway to the entrance to the site are often the work of land owners.

It is possible to organize the construction of a road to the site both independently and together with neighbors, who will also use the new section of the equipped entrance. Moreover, if the path to their possessions lies through it, you cannot prohibit the use of the road. Thus, so that unpleasant situations do not arise, the first thing to do is to negotiate with the neighbors. Road construction is not necessarily a costly and labor-intensive process. Below we will give several methods of laying fabrics of different quality and cost.

Before building a road to the site, it is necessary to mark the territory. You can use regular pegs and a rope that should be pulled between them.

For the correct breakdown of the terrain, you must adhere to the established rules in accordance with SNiP 2.07.01-89:

• 1) The width of the traffic lane in the settlement up to the groups of buildings should be 2.75 meters, the minimum number of lanes is 2.
• 2) Secondary passages 3.5 meters wide are laid to detached houses in the amount of one lane.
• 3) Roads between sections in the depth of the block must correspond to a width of 2.75-3.0 meters with a pedestrian walkway of 0.9-1.0 meters.

At the same time, on single-lane roads, it is necessary to arrange pockets for the oncoming traffic of cars every 75 meters; at the facades of buildings with an entrance, the width of the road is increased to 5.5 meters.

Dead ends should not exceed 150 meters, they must be equipped with a turn to turn garbage trucks and fire trucks.

The border of the road section is regulated by SNiP 30-02-97. According to the document, the distance from the house to the road must be at least 5 meters, this is required by fire safety rules. The fence should not interfere with the roadway. A more precise distance can be clarified according to the town planning plan in the local administration.

Compacted soil is the cheapest way of organizing travel, but the most unreliable: such a road will have to be compacted periodically. This version of the device is suitable for those streets where heavy equipment does not walk, and on the surface there are dense and dry soils: stony, coarse sand. Compaction is useless on small clays and loose rocks.

The compaction of the topsoil is carried out by heavy equipment:

• The bulldozer will smooth out the main irregularities and remove the top layer;
• The roller will compact the soil.

The cost of the road, in fact, will include only the rental of equipment.

The road to the dacha covered with rubble is an option often found in rural areas and private cooperatives. It does not wash out with water, the backfill can withstand the load even from the infrequent movement of heavy trucks. The canvas will serve for a long time if it is laid using the correct technology.

1. The first step is to remove the top layer of soil: it is the most loose and unsuitable for coating. Cut the soil with a grader or bulldozer. The thickness of the layer is determined individually, on average - 20-30 cm.
2. The lining of geotextiles under the first and subsequent layers of the road cake is required: it strengthens the base.
3. We turn to the arrangement of the sand cushion: it drains the incoming water and prevents the coating from blurring, changing its shape. You should choose coarse sand, pour a layer of at least 20 cm onto the surface of the future road and compact it well.
4. Now we lay out the first layer (10-20 cm) of large crushed stone with a fraction of 40-70 mm. Here you can add concrete and brick breakage. We water, compact it and close it on top with geotextiles or a special road mesh. This can be omitted, but with the fabric it holds the stones better in place and the canvas will hold tight.
5. We fill the second layer of crushed stone (20-40 mm) on top of the first one and also water, compact, cover with geotextiles.
6. Next, we drive the grader to the site and align the plane of the canvas according to the project.
7. Now we strengthen the road surface with fine gravel 5-20 mm and roll it up. It will fill the space between large particles and make movement on the canvas comfortable.

The cost of 100 meters of such a road is about 20-30 thousand rubles. You can save money and get by with one layer of rubble, but such a coating will have to be constantly updated. Its cost will be 15,000 rubles. for 100 running meters.

These are ready-made reinforced concrete products. They are produced in different sizes, respectively, the price depends on it. For example, 2P 30.15-10 has dimensions of 3000 × 1500 × 160 mm and costs about 6-6500 rubles. Expensive, but such a covering with slabs has a number of advantages:

• 1) Cars of any weight can drive on the road without damage;
• 2) The canvas is not washed out;
• 3) When laid correctly, the boards will not break.

If it is planned to build a road to a site of short length, this option is optimal. The cost of 1 meter, based on the plate we have chosen, turns out to be about 4 thousand rubles.

Before laying the slabs, the soil is cut, compacted, covered with geotextiles and sand, then crushed stone. Such a pillow will take on the loads and distribute them over the entire surface of the plate, preventing it from breaking.

This is the first thing that comes to mind when it comes to road construction. Indeed, this is the most durable and comfortable road surface, but subject to its melting laying. In turn, this process is very laborious and requires the use of special equipment and materials.

Before the construction of the road, it is necessary to obtain the permission of the owner of the road, in the case of the private sector, this is the consent from the administration of the settlement.

It is better to entrust the construction of asphalt to professionals, the cost of work with the materials and equipment used will be about 50 thousand rubles per 100 meters of asphalt road. In compliance with all norms, the process will take a week.

These are aesthetic types of road surfaces, ideal for arranging the entrance to the site to the front door.

If we compare paving stones and slabs, we can come to the conclusion that these are approximately the same product: there is no clear distribution in shape, thickness, and color. The main difference lies in the bearing capacity of the elements:

• The tile is suitable for covering sidewalks and driveways for light vehicles;
• Heavy machinery can drive on the pavement without deteriorating the coating.

Conclusion: it is advisable to choose paving stones for the entrance to the territory and between the sites. It is better if it will be carved from a solid stone of hard rocks. The tile is ideal for garden paths, local areas and recreation areas. Owners of private houses, who have chosen paving stones as a road cover to the site, use it for the construction of a canvas of the local area - the product is in no way inferior to tiles in terms of aesthetic properties.

What you need for laying tiles and paving stones:

• Cement-sand mortar, which can be prepared directly at the construction site;
• Bayonet and shovels;
• Grinder with replaceable discs for cutting curbs and paving stones, if necessary;
• Roulette;
• Hydro level;
• Rake;
• Sand ironer, can be replaced with a board with a nailed handle;
• Trowels;
• Rubber hammer for fixing paving stones. Normal will not work.
• Container for mixing components;
• Watering hose with rain nozzle;
• Vibratory plate for compaction of soil and sand.

It is not difficult to build a paving stone pavement, it is enough to adhere to the algorithm:

1. After marking, the soil layer is removed with shovels, checking the evenness of the bottom with a level. It is necessary to achieve the most even surface of the base. When building a driveway between sections, a bulldozer can do this work.
2. At a high level of groundwater, trenches are additionally dug along the edges for pipes.
3. Geotextiles are laid on the prepared bottom. If you want to overlap the canvases, it should be 30-50 centimeters.It is necessary that the edges of the trench are also closed.
4. We pour sand 10 cm thick on the bottom and water it abundantly from a hose with a rain nozzle. Thoroughly tamp with a vibrating plate several times, each time wetting the sand.
5. We cover the sand with geotextiles and expose the curbs, check their evenness.
6. We rub the seams between the curbs with skinny concrete and leave to harden.
7. We fill in crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm with a layer of 10 cm and tamp it with a vibrating plate.
8. Close the layer with geotextile again and start laying paving stones or tiles.
9. We prepare the solution: 5 parts of sand and 1 part of cement are closed with such an amount of carts so that a thick, but mobile mixture is obtained. We spread it on the prepared base with a layer of 4-8 cm. We level it with a rake.
10. We lay tiles or paving stones according to the scheme or arbitrarily (depending on the shape of the product). To keep the distance, we use crosses for seams. If pruning is needed, it should be done in advance before laying out the mortar. Each element is tapped with a rubber mallet.
11. We sweep the ambassador of laying out the tracks and walk along the canvas with a vibrating plate.
12. Fill the joints between the paving stones and the tiles with ordinary sand.

Access to a paving site is expensive, but the road will last for decades without the need for repairs.

The cost of the road is determined by the price of materials, on average - up to 5 thousand per square meter.

You can often find entrances to private territory, decorated with sleepers. It is a cheap and effective way to create a passage in a small area.

• 1) Remove the top layer of soil;
• 2) It is advisable to lay geotextiles;
• 3) We fill in the crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm, compact;
• 4) We lay out the sleepers.

Crushed stone removes water from the tree and the sleepers are better preserved. The advantage of this method is the low cost of the road section.

It happens that drainage ditches are laid along the site, and they cannot be buried in any way. The solution is to lay pipes in a ditch. How to arrange travel:

1. We carry out work in dry weather. At the bottom of the pit, we pour a layer of rubble of at least 20 cm. It will serve as a drainage cushion so that, when the seasons change, the soils do not push the pipe out and change its position.
2. We lay a pipe made of metal or asbestos cement with a diameter of at least 20 mm, so that, if necessary, it can be cleaned of debris.
3. We fill the pipe with a sand-gravel mixture and tamp the layer.
4. Concrete the edges of the pipe to fix its position.
5. We fill up the soil to the desired mark, tamp it.
6. We design the roadbed in any way.