In detail: DIY screwdriver drill repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
- the screwdriver does not turn on; - during operation, extraneous whistles and creaks are heard; - strong runout of the chuck; - turns are not regulated; - reverse does not switch; - after turning off the button, the engine continues to rotate; - the screwdriver turns on for a split second and wedges.
About the device of the screwdriver, read the article The device of the screwdriver.
Some spare parts (motor, gearbox, switch, etc.) for the most popular models can be bought here (only it is better to buy through the online store, since the price in a regular store of this network may be higher).
The screwdriver may not turn on for three main reasons: the battery is faulty (not charged), the power button is faulty, the engine brushes are worn out, or the anchor itself has burned out (very rarely).
Battery... The battery is checked by a simple measurement at its DC voltage terminals with any tester. The output voltage of a working charged battery must correspond to that indicated on the case - 12V, 18V, etc. Otherwise, the battery must be replaced. The charger of the screwdriver may also be faulty.
Regulator of turns and reverse... The screwdriver speed controller is checked with a multimeter in continuity mode. It should be noted that if the button is fully pressed, the contacts are closed in it and the voltage is supplied to the engine (to reverse) directly, excluding the speed regulator circuit. Two wires from the battery come to the button, after which two wires are connected to the engine through the reverse contacts. The power button may still have three wires for connecting a regulating element (field-effect transistor), which is removed from the body. For continuity, the probes are connected to the input and one of the engine wires (if possible, to the reverse input contacts) alternately, then the button is pressed all the way. The device shows the presence or absence of contact, after which the second input wire is measured. We translate the reverse lever and repeat the measurements. If there is no contact, the button changes.
Video (click to play).
Do-it-yourself screwdriver button repair is possible, but only if you have certain skills. It is important to understand that after opening the case, many switching parts will simply fall out of the case. This can be prevented only by smoothly lifting the lid initially and the desired sketch of the location of the contacts and springs. If darkened contacts are found, they are cleaned with sandpaper. After assembly, repeated measurements are carried out and if the results are positive (there is a contact), the button is installed in its original place.
It should be noted right away that if, after repairing the button, the screwdriver motor starts working when the button is fully pressed, and when the button is pressed smoothly, the speed is not adjusted, then the reason should be sought in the adjustment scheme. Most screwdriver repairs in this case come down to replacing the entire button.
If there is no reverse, replace the reverse switch or try to repair it. To do this, open the switch cover and, as is the case with the button, gently lift it up. We check contacts, clean and collect. If the contacts are burnt or deformed, the reverse must be replaced. There are variants of buttons in which the reverse is assembled inside the button body, in this case the entire button is changed.
If, when the button is released, the engine continues to rotate, and before it did not rotate, in this case it is necessary to pay attention to the speed regulator, namely, to the regulating transistor. It is necessary to replace either the entire button or the transistor separately.
Electric motor... If all of the above operations have shown the health of the elements, then it is necessary to check the condition of the engine brushes. To do this, the motor is disconnected from the button, and the multimeter probes are connected to the motor wires. The absence of a small resistance in the chain indicates wear on the brushes, but an armature breakage (winding breakage) should not be ruled out, although this happens very rarely. Usually, in this case, the motor changes entirely, but if the brushes are worn out, it is possible to restore the screwdriver motor on its own. On some motors, the brushes can be replaced without disassembling the motor. For others, it is necessary to separate the rear motor cover with brushes from the motor housing.
To do this, it is necessary to bend the cover plate, but in such a way that the edges do not break off, since they will need to be returned to their place after assembly. The flexible wire of the brushes is connected to the holder using spot welding, but the wires for new brushes can be soldered, but only with refractory solder, for example, POS-60. Before assembling the motor, the brushes are removed in the brush holder with a clip made of thin wire, the cover is put in place and the wires are pulled out, thereby freeing the brushes. Next, you should go around the edges of the case in order to firmly press the back cover.
Extraneous whistles and squeaks during the operation of the screwdriver can be caused by wear of the armature bushings or a detached magnet that comes into contact with the armature. In the first case, you can extend the life of the engine by dripping a drop of precision instrument oil onto the bushings, and then turning on the engine so that the oil is dispersed through the bushings themselves. This method can only extend the life of the engine, but over time you will still have to replace it.
Reducer... From the long operation of the screwdriver under heavy loads and with lateral pressure, the gearbox shaft is curved, on which the cartridge is screwed, a strong beating appears during the operation of the screwdriver. The bearing bush or bearing of this shaft can also wear out. If only the bushing or bearing is damaged and the shaft is not bent, then you can try to replace only the worn parts.
It may happen that the engine starts up for a split second and stops abruptly. Everything indicates a breakdown in the gearbox, usually a broken pin on which the satellite is attached. You can try to replace the carrier or the entire gearbox. Failure of the gearbox often occurs due to wear of the gear teeth. A detailed description of the screwdriver gearbox device can be found here.
One of the most "popular" tools of the home craftsman is a screwdriver. But, like any product, it breaks down. What to do in this case? In some types of work, an electric drill can save the situation, but only in some. You can take the tool to a service center and wait for it to be repaired. But this will take time and money, which will have to be paid to repair the instrument. But, as a rule, the third option is also available - the repair of the Makit screwdriver, and the device of the screwdriver is not so complicated.
Let's look at the main symptoms of screwdriver malfunctions and how you can fix them at home on your own.
Before proceeding directly to the malfunctions of this tool, it would be nice to briefly get acquainted with the device of the screwdriver and the purpose of its main units. Let's start with this. The photo below shows a disassembled screwdriver, on its basis and consider the purpose of the parts.
We'll start with the start button. The button has two functions: turning on the power supply circuit of the electric motor and its speed regulator.When the button is pressed all the way, the motor power circuit is closed by the button contacts to a straight line, providing maximum power and number of revolutions. The speed controller is electronic, it consists of a PWM generator located on the board. Depending on the force of pressing the button, the contact located on the button moves along the board. The degree of the generated pulse per key depends on its location along the board, the role of the key is played by a field-effect transistor (in the photo above it is designated as a "rotation speed regulator"). That is, the dependence is as follows: the harder the user presses the button, the higher the value of the pulse on the transistor and the more it opens, thereby increasing the voltage on the electric motor.
Motor rotation is reversed by reversing the polarity at the terminals. Reversal of polarity is carried out by means of changeover contacts, which are flipped by the user using the reverse handle.
Electric motor. In this tool, as a rule, single-phase DC collector motors are used. They are characterized by reliability, ease of production and maintenance. The design of such a motor is as follows: a body on which magnets, an anchor and brushes are located.
Reducer. Its purpose is to convert a large number of revolutions of the motor shaft into significantly lower revolutions of the chuck shaft. There are two types of screwdriver gearboxes: planetary and classic. The latter is very rarely used, so we will pay attention to the planetary type gearbox. The planetary gearbox consists of:
ring gear;
sun gear, which is attached to the shaft of the electric motor;
satellites and a carrier (their number depends on the number of steps, there are two or three steps).
Without going into subtleties, let's consider the principle of operation of such a gearbox. The sun gear is driven by the armature shaft, in turn, its teeth drive the satellites, which transmit the rotation of the carrier. With a two-stage gearbox, the chuck shaft is connected to the second carrier, with a three-stage gearbox - with the third.
The force regulator is designed to adjust the force that is applied to the screw. As a rule, 16 adjustment positions are used. Thus, there is a wide range of screw tightening levels, which allows you to work with very fragile materials (drywall, etc.). Its principle of operation is well illustrated in the video below.
The chuck is attached to the output shaft of the gearbox and has three cams that securely hold the part in the chuck.
Having considered the main elements of the screwdriver, let's move on to possible malfunctions and possible ways to repair the AEG screwdriver. And we'll start with the electrical part. The main signs of a malfunction of the electrical component of the screwdriver are:
the instrument does not turn on;
no reverse mode switching;
there is no adjustment of the number of revolutions.
The instrument does not turn on. The first thing to look out for when repairing a Skil screwdriver is the battery. If we put it on charging, and it did not help, then we arm ourselves with a multimeter and proceed to troubleshooting. To begin with, we measure the voltage on the battery, it should more or less correspond to the one indicated on the battery case. If the voltage is too low, it is necessary to identify the faulty element: a battery or a charger.
You can determine the health of the charger with a multimeter, for this we plug it into the network and measure the voltage at idle at the terminals. It should be a couple of volts more from the nominal indicated on the device. If there is no voltage, the charging unit is faulty. For such a repair of the Interskol screwdriver, knowledge of electronics will be required, otherwise it is easier to buy a new one.
If there is a problem with the battery, then to repair the Makit screwdriver with your own hands, you need to open the block with the elements.After the unit has been disassembled, it is necessary to carefully examine all the connection points of the wires and check the quality of the soldering, whether any one has come off. If all connections are intact, we take a multimeter and measure the voltage across each element. Each element must have at least 0.9 - 1V voltage. If an element with a lower voltage is found, it must be replaced. The main thing is that the capacity and type of the cell correspond to the rest (i.e. if NiCd, then NiCd is also needed). You can learn more about the repair of batteries from the article: "Do-it-yourself screwdriver battery repair."
If the charger and the battery are in good order, and the screwdriver does not turn on, it is necessary to disassemble the screwdriver. Two wires go from the battery terminals to the button, we take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the input of the button (the battery is inserted in this case). If there is voltage at the input, then we take out the battery and with the help of the crocodile clips we short-circuit the wires from the battery. We put the device to measure resistance in ohms. Press the button all the way and measure at the exit from the button. The device should show the value of resistance tending to zero, if it is - the button is working properly, the problem is either in the brushes or in other elements of the electric motor. If the tester shows an open circuit, the button needs to be replaced or repaired. You can try to repair it yourself, as it often happens that there is no contact on the terminals due to burning, it will be enough to clean it with sandpaper and assemble it. The main thing when parsing a button is not to rush and act carefully, otherwise all the parts will fly apart, and you will have to puzzle for more than one hour how to assemble it.
Similar actions will need to be taken in the absence of reverse. We put one probe of the device on the input wire of the button, the second on the contact of the electric motor or the output of the button, this is more convenient. We switch the reverse handle. If everything is working properly, the device will fix a certain amount of resistance, if it is “silent”, the conductivity of the reverse contacts is broken. The procedure for disassembling and cleaning the contacts is the same as described above, as when repairing the Caliber screwdriver.
Is the engine running at maximum rpm and there is no rpm control? The cause of the malfunction can be both in the button itself and in the regulating transistor.
If all circuits to the electric motor are in good order, but the tool does not work, the malfunction may be associated with the brushes. Ideally, brushes should be changed when they are long, worn 40% of their original length. If the brushes are worn, replace them with new ones; if the brushes are in order, the problem is with the rest of the motor elements. To check the electric motor, you must disconnect the wires that go from the button. After disconnecting the wires, using a multimeter, we measure the resistance value at the wires fastening contacts. If the resistance value is small and tends to zero, most likely a winding break has occurred, either rewinding or a new motor is needed.
You can check the integrity of the armature windings, since the armature can be bought and changed on your own. To check the armature, it is necessary to measure the resistance on two adjacent collector plates, along the entire circumference. In this case, the normal value is "0". If during the check you find two adjacent plates, with a value other than zero, the anchor needs repair or replacement.