DIY drill repair chuck

In detail: do-it-yourself drill repair cartridge from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In the household, the most demanded tool is an electric drill. Recently, electric drills, called perforators, have been especially popular.
This tool allows you not only to drill a hole, but also to tighten nuts, screws, screws using attachments. An electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely fails. How to troubleshoot electric drills. The main faults in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.

A common mechanical problem is the failure of the chuck.
And how to remove the cartridge from the screwdriver and replace it?
Immediately, we note that replacing the cartridge with an electric drill, a screwdriver, a hammer drill is absolutely the same.
The reason for the chuck to come out is most often the wear of the chuck jaws. This is the most serious malfunction of an electric drill. Complete replacement of the chuck is indispensable. And how to remove the cartridge from the drill will be shown in the video.

By the way! The given method of replacing the chuck is suitable for any modern models of not only electric drills, but also perforators, screwdrivers, since all the above designs provide for exactly this method of fastening the chuck.

But in Soviet-made drills, the cartridge is held on a Morse taper and is tightened with a screw. How to remove the cartridge from the cone? To do this, you can use a bearing puller or knock down with a hammer.

Attention! When purchasing a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and thoroughly lubricate all mating parts and threads.

But there are other mechanical faults.
There are times when the failure of the electric drill is caused by the failure of the gearbox or poor performance of the bearings.

2. The order of work with the gearbox of the electric drill
To get to the gearbox, you need to disassemble the plastic housing of the electric drill.
After removing the housing cover, release the chuck shaft and remove it. A driven gear of a larger diameter is attached to the shaft.
A small-diameter spiral drive gear is attached to the motor shaft.
There is a bronze bushing in the gearbox housing, which most often leads to the failure of the drill. Everything happens due to its significant wear and tear.
Check the dimensions of the bushing and order a turner. Use bronze as a material, but caprolon is also acceptable.
When replacing the bushing in the gearbox, it is imperative to check the bearings, their tightness and their packing with grease.
If the gear teeth are very worn out, they will have to be replaced. The gear teeth wear out when the support sleeve fails.
Most often, the driven gear with a larger diameter wears out. Replacing it is simple, you just need to remove the retaining ring and key.
The old gear must be removed from the chuck axis. You can use a puller, or you can just gently knock down with a hammer, substituting wooden supports.

Electrical faults1.Replacing brushes in an electric drill
To replace the brushes, it is necessary to remove the side cover of the electric drill body by unscrewing the fastening screws. There must be at least 7 of them.
The case is removed by carefully prying its edges with a screwdriver.
Having opened access to the electric motor, you will see two boxes in which the brushes are installed.
In order to get the brushes, you need to free the boxes, bend the holders and take out the worn out brush. Do the same with the second brush.
Install new brushes in the vacant places, wipe the contact space near the contact space with a clean cloth moistened with white spirit.

The drill is one of the most used tools in the home. But sometimes the question arises of how to disassemble the drill chuck. With all the reliability, the tool sometimes fails. Chuck breakage can be one of the reasons.

Electric drill device diagram.

The design of the chuck is quite simple, and almost all drills have similar elements. At the same time, the compactness of the arrangement of parts and the strength of the fastening can cause difficulties. The issue of disassembling a tool often becomes quite relevant.

Springless drill chuck.

The chuck is an important element in the design of any type of drill - hammer drill or screwdriver. It ensures that the drill is firmly seated and rotationally transmitted from the shaft. Based on the functional features, two main units can be distinguished - the system for attaching the drill and the system for attaching the chuck to the main shaft of the drill.

The cam-type chuck used in most drills stands out in terms of the mechanism for fixing the drill. Its principle of operation is based on the movement of special metal jaws (cams) placed on a cone. The cylinder, rotating along the tapered surface, provides the movement of the cams in the transverse direction, bringing them closer or apart. Accordingly, a drill placed between the jaws is clamped or released depending on the direction of movement of the jaws.

Electric drill chucks differ in the way they drive the cylinder (adjusting sleeve) around the cams. Two options are used - key (normal) and quick-clamping. The key method involves the presence of additional gearing between the elements and is implemented using a special key that drives the gear. The quick-release version is based on rolling the sleeve over the threaded surface made on the cams. Sleeve rotation is done manually.

Diagram of a classic drill chuck.

According to the method of attachment to the tool shaft, the chucks can be divided into threaded and conical. Threaded threads are screwed onto the shaft by means of a threaded connection. Tapered ones use the principle of Morse tapers, i.e. have a tapered end hole, into which the tapered shaft shank is tightly inserted.

The chuck of a cam-type electric drill reliably fixes drills with a cylindrical shank of different diameters in a certain range. Most often, elements are produced with a range of installed drills 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.

The entire construction of the chuck is assembled on the inner taper bushing (shaft) - the base. Cam guide rings are located on the base surface. The cams themselves are made of metal bars and have a thread on the outer surface in the form of transverse grooves. In the upper part, the bars are cut to a cone. The grooves on all cams are made so that when the bars are aligned, the grooves form a single thread.

Cams (in the amount of three or four pieces) are placed on the tapered surface of the base and passed through the guide rings. An adjusting sleeve is installed on top of the base with cams, made in the form of a cylinder with an internal thread similar to the thread on the cams. From the front side of the chuck, a washer and an annular bearing are put on successively. Finally, the entire structure is secured with a nut with teeth from the outside.

Common types of drill chucks.

On the back side, in the center of the base, a hole is made for attaching to the drill shaft. Depending on the type of chuck, this hole is either a threaded cylinder or a cone without a thread. The hole is not through. On the surface that plugs the end hole, another hole of a smaller diameter with a left-hand thread for a locking screw is made.

After assembly, the cartridge is a single unit and works as follows. The cylindrical sleeve with its thread rolls around the thread of the cams, while it does not have the possibility of longitudinal movement. This movement along the surface of the base is forced by the cams. Since the base has the shape of a cone, the cams, moving longitudinally, are simultaneously forced to approach in the transverse direction.

In key-type chucks, an additional retaining ring is installed with a threaded knurled surface on the surface. A gear moves along this thread, the hollow shaft of which is brought into a seat on the sleeve. This gear is driven by turning the key. The gear wheel, rolling around the ring, rotates the adjusting sleeve.

Keyless chuck device.

The chuck is installed on the main shaft of the electric drill with a hole in its base. It is either twisted (threaded type of fastening), or tightly upset on a cone (cone type of fastening). Through the hole in the base, the chuck is secured with a left-hand threaded locking screw. To do this, the jaws are completely parted, and the screw is vertically inserted into its hole and screwed counterclockwise.

Those who have disassembled the cartridge know that first it must be removed from the drill shaft. Removal is done as follows. Sponges are completely divorced. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the locking screw, which is located inside and below the chuck between the jaws. The screw is unscrewed in a clockwise direction. Then the drill is fixed in a stationary state and the chuck is unscrewed clockwise. Usually, after the tool has been used, it is firmly fixed on the shaft. Therefore, you have to make an effort.

Diagram of the percussion mechanism of the drill.

The drill body should be clamped in a vice, and the chuck is unscrewed with a gas wrench. To avoid damaging the sleeve, a gasket should be used between the key and the sleeve. If this effort is not enough, then two keys can be used. One key firmly fixes the shaft of the electric drill, and the second key rotates the chuck.

The tapered chuck is much easier to remove. The drill is held stationary in an upright position downward. From the rear, the end surface of the chuck is first lightly tapped with a hammer over the entire area. Then, with stronger blows in several places, the cartridge is knocked off the shaft. To evenly distribute the force, you can install a wrench on the surface and hit it.

Chuck device diagram.

The question of how to disassemble the drill chuck quickly is decided in the following order. The element is secured in a vice, preferably through a soft metal gasket. First, the top nut with teeth is unscrewed. A gas wrench can be used, but be careful not to damage the nut. Pre-lubricate with oil. Then the bearing and washer are removed.

The chuck is removed from the vise and the sleeve is manually unscrewed from the base. If the sleeve is jammed, then the cartridge can be disassembled only by applying force. To do this, he is clamped again in a vice, but with the back side up. Oil is poured between the base and the sleeve. Using a gas wrench, the base is unscrewed.

If there is a lower lock nut or ring, then they must first be removed.

The base is removed from the sleeve. The cams are removed from the guide rings and removed from the tapered part of the base. The issue of disassembling the tool has been resolved.

Sometimes a situation arises when removing the chuck from the drill shaft is very difficult. In this case, you can remove the chuck together with the shaft.For this, the tool body is first opened. By unclamping the fastening clamp, the retaining ring is released. Then the gear and key are removed, with which the gear is fixed to the shaft. The retaining ring, bearing and spring are successively removed from the shaft. The chuck together with the shaft is removed from the tool body.

After the cartridge is disassembled, all parts should be carefully examined. Repairs are easy to make if the parts are intact and the seizure is caused by the ingress of metal shavings into adjacent parts. In this case, rinse all parts well with oil or kerosene. You can use a soft brush for this. After cleaning the parts, you can reassemble in the reverse order, but manually, without much effort.

Most often, the malfunction is caused by wear or damage to the threaded and serrated surfaces. If these damages are small and local in nature, then you can try to eliminate them by grinding with a file or sanding paper. If grinding does not help, the chuck should be replaced completely.