DIY air signal pipe repair

In detail: DIY air horn repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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Andrew22 18 Oct 2015

I'm interested in this. I bought myself an air signal with a compressor. When you press the signal, the compressor pulls weakly, which makes the signal quiet. From the battery it blows so that the hair stands on end. Now the question is how to make the signal work as expected, maybe bypass the signal relay? just don't know where this relay is located, can someone tell me))))

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vladimir123 18 Oct 2015

Power up autonomously, through a separate relay and fuse, the native control goes after the minus [mass] and it is natural to take into account the increase in the cross-section of the wires of the power line.

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Sergey_W124 18 Oct 2015

First, there is no relay in the horn circuit at 124.
Secondly, the horn at 124 is controlled not by “mass”, but by “plus”.
And thirdly, in order to connect any device to the standard wiring, you must be guided by the regular wiring diagram and the device diagram, otherwise there is a short circuit, flooded wires, etc.

Post has been editedSergey_W124: 18 October 2015 - 19:03

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mic1960 18 Oct 2015

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genzemarta 18 Oct 2015

This is exactly what I would take for myself! Hato we have walking aborzeli

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KOsik1989 06 Nov 2015

And thirdly, in order to connect any device to the standard wiring, you must be guided by the regular wiring diagram and the device diagram, otherwise there is a short circuit, flooded wires, etc. What the hell? You just need a head and straight arms.
I set myself an air low. The point is in losses, from the battery the spill comes out more, and so on the standard connection, a lot of resistance comes out. Everything is done simply, through a relay for 50 rubles. and a good wire, I threw myself the same section as on the starter, it blows like on a steam locomotive now. You start up the control from the signal (from the steering wheel) and start up the thick wire to break and that's it. business for 10 min.

Video (click to play).

Post has been editedKOsik1989: 06 November 2015 - 14:43

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spy-art 07 Nov 2015

That's all right. I did the same for myself, on a 4-pin relay. There are two wires to the control contacts of the relay from the standard beep, to the power contact +, to the second wire to the + compressor. - the compressor on the battery weight or on the body.

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Vasyadref 07 Nov 2015

Hello everyone. Those who know, tell me, if you put a Hella or similar air signal instead of a stock signal and put a signal on it, and do not set a regular siren, then during sound arming and disarming, what kind of sound signals will this Hella-type air signal emit? I mean the people will be scared? ... then it sounds like a steam locomotive.

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vladimir123 08 Nov 2015

For a competent picture of the connection, there is not enough fuse in the power line between the AK-relays, I have 15a on three Italian pipes, but perhaps more - it depends on the power of the compressor. Has been working for 10 years - no problem.

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genzemarta 14 Nov 2015

Hello everyone.Those who know, tell me, if you put a Hella or similar air signal instead of a stock signal and put a signal on it, and do not set a regular siren, then during sound arming and disarming, what kind of sound signals will this Hella-type air signal emit? I mean the people will be scared? ... then it sounds like a steam locomotive.

If you connect without a relay, then you will not have time to fart as the transistor siren key will light up in the signaling.

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GreyDobry 17 Nov 2015

recently the air signal was tested for operability. I threw wires to the battery. such a spark slips - tin. powerful thing this air. if you connect without a relay, everything will be there right away.

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KOsik1989 22 Nov 2015

You can put it through the diode and that's it OK will.

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Reinhard 07 Dec 2015

If you connect without a relay, then you will not have time to fart as the transistor siren key will light up in the signaling.

Exactly, it will burn. And if you connect it through a relay, then sooner or later some unnecessary crap will fly to the roof. This shout can scream sometime in the middle of the night.

It took a long time after the installation of the frill. Not a drop of water successfully performs its functions, and after snowfall and wind, not a snowflake under the hood. The noise from the internal combustion engine and the vibration from the windshield. The result is satisfied. Read more

the same membrane

fastening clamps. In total, it took 3pcs 12cm in diameter, and 2pcs of the smallest for attaching the tube to the compressor and pipe

In the fall, I set myself a pneumatic signal, everything is very buzzing, but in frosts and cold weather I began to notice that the pipe began to buzz badly. Climbed into the Internet and came across an article about the completion of this pipe. It turns out that the membrane that makes a sound dubs in cold weather and ceases to perform its functions. The solution to this problem was to put the membrane on the sealant! And everyone who did this forgot about this problem with the signal and the sound of the pipe became more massive than native! Well, in the photo everything is in detail about "tuning" and fixing my signal :)

“Paddle # 2 -“ You want it to be good ?! - Do it yourself !"

"Replacing the silent blocks of the stretcher Megan 2 (end of the epic)"

"The lenses have arrived, I'm making transition frames."

And are you ready to get luley for your tuning?) So, this tops of this law seems to be prohibited.

Tap the compressor directly to the battery. There are changes?

Bibikal and not only at the technical inspection, but also at the traffic police post - they were looking for special signals, and this one arranged for them)))
Yes, and it beeps normally - nothing more than natural, the air hums of KAMAZ are much louder.

Wow, anniversary message, I will not write more)))

For garlic, if, I'm not sure about the ban, but we are banned precisely because of the volume (not the local me).

Are you here »Club of owners and fans of KAMAZ cars» Other »Pneumatic signal

- - - - the sound is higher and shrill from the rubber membrane
        
        And do not forget to rearrange the signal to a convenient place, since very often these rubber bands will break and you will unscrew and tighten these bolts, and if the signal is in its regular place, believe me, it will be very inconvenient. We passed this option in youth.
        
        This is definitely noticed, I forgot about it.
        
        (just kidding, but it sounds really strong). Thanks for the advice!
        
        I removed the handle from the fire extinguisher, welded a hole and welded 2 tubes to it, one by one air will flow inside, and through the other the air will be directed to the pipes.
        
        I bought the compressor in the car market in advance. I have a compressor “on hitchhiking”, that is, when a certain pressure is reached, the pumping of air there stops. In this case, I have a compressor for 5 atmospheres.
        
        To the device, I attached an electric valve from HBO, which is designed specifically for air compressors, withstanding pressures up to 8 atmospheres.
        
        General scheme of work.
        
        At the very beginning of work, the compressor turns on, air starts to be pumped into the fire extinguisher (cylinder). After the cylinder there is an electrovalve. The positive wire, which is connected exactly to the plus of the signal, and the minus to the car body.
        
        Further, behind the valve and pipes there is a copper splitter, which distributes the air along the pipes.
        
        Also in the assembly, the resonance effect was taken into account, that is, one pipe is longer, then it makes the sound of one pipe of bassists, which is good news.
        
        I recommend using such a signal very carefully, since the use of such structures is punishable by a fine.
        
        Author; Vanya Rozumovich Ivano-Frankivsk, Ukraine
        
        you can read more about this, what and how where to attach
        
        , but is it possible something simpler? I bought it, installed it without alterations.
        like this “HORN TECH” https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1708/fun/photo/view_album.php?id=24874.
        
        you blow under my windows, do not be offended later that a pot with a palm tree flew to the roof.
        
        don't hit me
        
        Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
        
        Message angy »26 Jan 2010, 19:15
        
        bought an air signal here. now I'm thinking where to get him to do it.
        the problem is that the pipe is 40-50 cm long and it does not fit between the grille and the radiator in principle.
        only 2 options came to my mind:
        1.on the hood lid from the inside (with self-tapping screws to the stiffeners)
        2.inward the front bumper (but the compressor will have a lot of dust there)
        I'll post the pictures later, the device is in the car, the car is already in the parking lot
        
        and the sound is not bad ..
        
        found a picture, like this
        
        Message Igorek 68 "26 Jan 2010, 23:45
        
        Message deke »27 Jan 2010, 07:59
        
        Message baby »27 Jan 2010, 13:57
        
        Message Mrr »27 Jan 2010, 15:56
        
        Message Mishgan »28 Jan 2010, 07:08
        
        Message baksheev »28 Jan 2010, 09:23
        
        Message Mishgan »28 Jan 2010, 13:54
        
        Message Kosha003 »28 Jan 2010, 19:00
        
        Message Mishgan "28 Jan 2010, 20:30
        
        Message baby »31 Jan 2010, 18:09
        
        Message angy "31 Jan 2010, 18:37
        
        The 45gr compressor was fixed between the headlamp and the battery and left a low-tone Volgov signal. together they sound better 😉 as I was told, in this country it is customary to drive with numbers 🙂
        
        Message angy "31 Jan 2010, 19:58
        
        Message Kosha003 »01 Feb 2010, 09:08
        
        angy
        on pccar studied this topic for a long time.
        
        About the receiver and the compressor. I have long dreamed of sticking air suspension back in town. One horseradish will need both a receiver and a compressor. The compressor is usually used "golden eagle" (up to 10 eyes pumping with a bang).Under the hood there is a place exactly under the compressor (behind the air filter), the receiver under the bottom (or even better - 2 smaller ones), the typhon, judging by the factory dimensions, should fit into the bumper. The typhon itself can be bought straight from the factory. current is expensive. 4200 rub. Or look for a way out to diesel locomotives and the price equivalent translates from rubles to liters
        
        Summary of the topic "replacement of the standard signal"
        
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        Volgosprings SVR-406ST >>>, *** SHTIRLITS *** >>>
        
        Message from Black XL:
        It wasn’t about the babin — it’s just an eccentric sitting in the cockpit.
        
        Today the situation has changed. Mitsuba, everyone knows this, in cold weather it sounds different from the summer. But today it seemed to me that when setting on the signaling, "fa" sounds quite incongruous. I began to listen - where does the sound come from, and I realized that it was coming well, not from Mitsuba
        Wonders. Ie Mitsuba does not work both by pressing the horn, and when setting the signal.
        As a result, it turned out that it was not the clock spring that had died, but the fucking Mitsuba (on the previous car, she also died for about 5 years). And the signal for arming, to great surprise, comes from the third (spare) signal. From what he suddenly earned - it is not clear. I didn’t work for 2 years, but I did it here.
        
        It remains to find out - Mitsuba died during the frost or completely. They worked at TSM-Motors, from which I conclude that frost somehow affects - either on the snail, or in the contacts somewhere there is water.
        
        And for me, even at -34 ° C, everything was ok and hummed as it should.
        
        This is the difference between the volgo signals from Bosches: an unstable signal depending on the ambient temperature.
        
        He is also pneumoclaxon, pipes, airhorn, etc.
        There is nothing tricky here at all and a lot of brains are not needed. I’m just writing to make life easier for those who decided (or only conceived) to assemble a pneumatic duct, and not to be liked (I don’t care about this at all) and not to rub, that it’s dangerous to bring grandmothers to a heart attack at the Savings Bank, after receiving a pension and help women in labor, so that the process goes faster.
        Essentially.
        What the pneumatic system for pipes consists of:
        
        Essential elements :
        1. Compressor
        2. Solenoid valve (solenoid)
        3. Check valve
        4. Pressure switch
        5. Receiver
        6. Pneumatic signal (s) (horns)
        
        Additional elements:
        1. Pneumatic connectors
        2. Fittings
        3. High pressure pipes (pneumatic pipes)
        
        Optional:
        1. Remote pressure gauge (in the cab)
        2. Control lamp (in the cab)
        3. Bayonet (quick-detachable connector) for connecting a hose with a gun to the system - for pumping wheels or otherwise.
        
        MORE ABOUT this.
        All components (purchased) I used the firm "E-MC". You can, of course, collect on cool components such as "CAMOZZI", but you will have to pay off the corresponding money for this.
        
        1. Compressor.
        I took "Berkut R15". Why him - perhaps one of the most reliable compressors for your money. Why R15 is the 17th and 20th, but this is too much for these purposes, because I have pure pipes, not air suspension. 2. Solenoid valve.
        Serves in order to dump air from the receiver into the pipes. Valves are available for 12 and 24 volts, and if you buy pipes with a built-in valve (like that of Hella), then look at the voltage.
        I got a pipe from Freightliner 1 meter long (minus 3 cm). It didn’t have a built-in solenoid valve, like most trucks with serious horns. Had to buy it separately.
        Importantso that the through hole in the solenoid valve is not less than the inner diameter of the tube going from the receiver to the horn.
        
        2. Solenoid valve.
        
        Serves in order to dump air from the receiver into the pipes. Valves are available for 12 and 24 volts, and if you buy pipes with a built-in valve (like that of Hella), then look at the voltage.
        I got a pipe from Freightliner 1 meter long (minus 3 cm). It didn’t have a built-in solenoid valve, like most trucks with serious horns.Had to buy it separately.
        Importantso that the through hole in the solenoid valve is not less than the inner diameter of the tube going from the receiver to the horn.
        Needed by all means. It works like this - it passes air in one direction, but not back, i.e. does not allow the air pumped into the receiver to press on the compressor, both during its operation and in the off state. It stands right at the compressor outlet.
        
        4. Pressure switch (pressure sensor).
        
        It serves to turn off the compressor when the pressure we need is reached and turn it back on when the pressure has dropped below a certain one.
        Between the contact legs there is a screw for the slot and with the help of it the required pressure is set (on my threshold from 0 to 10 bar).
        
        I got an almost new one from MAN with a volume of 4 liters and a pressure of 12.5 bar.
        Important - the receiver must have two outputs. The first - from the side or from above - for pumping air into the receiver and simultaneously bleeding air from it into the pipes, and the second outlet from the bottom. Condensate is drained through it.
        I have a valve, but you can also put a faucet.
        
        A powder fire extinguisher of the OP-4 or OP-5 type is excellent for the receiver. They come in different shapes, volumes and sizes. All that remains is to make one more hole (one already exists) and weld on a nut under the required union or fitting.
        
        1.2. Pneumatic connectors and fittings.
        
        How to choose them? I already had a receiver, compressor and pipe at the time of the need to purchase connectors and fittings. I measured the threads and hole sizes on them. Then he drew a diagram (the layout of the pneumatic tubes) and roughly figured out what would stand where. Then I went to the office where they sell pneumatic equipment. There we picked everything up according to the scheme (as I thought then), but in the end everything turned out a little differently and we had to go to buy more shnyazhki.
        In these connectors, the high pressure tubing is fixed as a quick-release coupling. The tube is cut very evenly and stupidly inserted into the fitting and that's it.
        
        There are a huge variety of fittings and connectors on sale (just a designer) - tees, splitters, transitions from one tube diameter to another, transition from a threaded connection to a hose, etc.
        
        Important - all threaded connections on the fittings have rubber O-rings. But it will be mega good to go through the entire thread with a fumulent, and put high-quality clamps on the fittings (for example, the outlet from the compressor).
        
        Used 8, 10, 12 and 14 mm (outer diameter).
        For example, a 14 mm tube comes out from the receiver, then the adapter is 14/12, then the 12th tube goes to the petarnik. And from the compressor comes an 8 mm tube. For pressure sensor 10 mm. In short, a flight of fantasies.
        
        Important - passive mechanisms, for example, a pressure sensor, a remote pressure gauge or the outlet from the compressor, it is sufficient to provide a thin tube of type 8-ki (in the outer diameter). This will facilitate installation and save space.
        
        Important - The tube leaving the receiver should go (very desirable) in forward flow through a straight connector (if necessary) to the valve and then to the pipe. Any corner has a constructive thinning, which makes it difficult, though not a lot, to the flow of air.
        
        Important - The air from the receiver should be delivered in a large volume and in a short time. This is achieved with a tube (I have 12 on the outside) with a good (large inside diameter and a minimum of transitions and bends.
        In short, just try to blow with your mouth into a meter tube with an outer diameter of 8 mm and 12 mm, it will immediately become much clearer.
        
        1. External pressure gauge to the salon.
        
        In principle, as desired, but it seems to me that it is necessary. You need to know what is swinging there and how much is dumped.
        
        An essential element in the cabin. Especially in conjunction with a pressure gauge. It is not always possible to pay attention to the pressure gauge, but the control lamp turns on when the compressor starts working and turns off after it is turned off. Why is she? Well, for example, an air leak. The air is poisonous and the compressor pumps to maintain pressure.Or the pressure sensor is stuck, and the compressor squirms and pumps and pumps. It's good if the thermal relay works.
        In short, the warning light always reflects the operation of the compressor, as they say on the face of everything and this gives a reason to pay attention to the pressure gauge. And if at all it starts to turn on often or does not turn off for a long time, then you will always understand that the byada has come and look at the system in time. For myself, I will put the LED of a vigorous annoying light, in a visible place, so as not to miss the moment.
        
        I use it as a by-product of the pneumatic tube. You can connect a hose with a gun and inflate a lowered wheel with one puff (no need to fly at the pump, especially in winter), or instead of a pumping gun, connect a blower gun during minor repairs or otherwise.
        
        Here is an example, as it seems to me, not very correct connections, which provide a quick release of air from the receiver into the pipe with a minimum of losses.
        Am I a strong reinsurer?
        
        Here the 14th tube leaves the receiver through the corner, then the transition 14/12, and then the tee (splitter) whose inner diameter narrows at the branching point, which is not buzzing. Accordingly, on the right side (valve), the air is already rushing with small, but losses.
        
        And then there is generally a jamb. After the tee (where there are already losses), there is a comb (such as a five-piece) and from it, with a 90-degree turn and another internal narrowing in the comb, there is already a valve.
        
        The most competent thing would be if the splitter is removed from the chain between the receiver and the comb and rearranged to a different place, and instead of the quick release, put an electromagnetic valve, and behind it pipes. In this way, the air will flow in a straight line without bends and constrictions different. What was then done.
        Well handwritten in a quick way it looks like this
        
        Now the time has come to insert our pribludy into the car.
        My compressor will stand on a structure welded from construction perforated corners and plates. A mounting junction box is still attached to it, in which the relays are located, all wires are connected through the terminals. The structure itself is attached to the spar.
        
        A plate was welded onto the mounting platform (it is in front), the receiver will be additionally fixed on it.
        
        The receiver was placed between the inner wing and the spar.
        On the one hand, it is attached to the inner wing and fixed through the plate with 2 mm bolts, and on the other side it is fastened with a clamp around the receiver to the mounting platform.
        Below we see a valve for draining condensate. Photo 3
        
        A receiver has already been installed, a compressor on the site, a solenoid valve at the outlet of which is a splitter for two pipes. Photo 5
        
        There is already a quick coupler for pumping the wheels, a pressure sensor, output to an external pressure gauge Photo 6
        
        Next, we install the electrics.
        For this I used 2 relays - normally closed and normally open. My pressure sensor is normally open (that is, it is open until the pressure from the receiver to it is from 0 to the required one set by me. When exceeded, it closes). So the relay, if it is normally open, then it will be open until the relay coil receives power and closes the previously open contacts.
        The connection was made according to the following principle:
        The signal to turn on is supplied from the fog lights (PTF), it is paralleled with them, and the power wire goes from the battery naturally, through the fuse.
        Due to death, I do not have a standard signal, therefore the + and - that went to the standard signal now go directly to the solenoid valve, i.e. pressing the pick on the steering wheel does not turn on the regular beep, but immediately the valve (which bleeds the air). I will no longer have a regular dial tone.
        
        Well, I soldered all the reels. I soldered dad and mom to them. It remains only to connect the prepared wires to them.
        
        what to expect from a meter pipe by sound. Well, this is roughly the average between a truck tractor and a steamer. Stupidly deep low velvety bass. This is not really what I wanted.He called the pipe of JIGURDA. I knew that he would suffocate me with his bass, so a fitting comes out of the solenoid valve for two outputs. I plan in the future to marry my jigurda with a short squeaky 50 centimeters long. The shorty will be with me with the name VITAS and will live in the engine compartment, and the dzhigurda will go to the bumper for permanent residence.
        
        Video (click to play).
        
        A lot of useful photos did not fit. Very sorry.
        I hope anyone will find this post useful.
        
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