In detail: do-it-yourself beats headphone arc repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The friendliest service center in Moscow
In Beats studio / solo / wireless headphones, the arc is made of plastic, and as you know, plastic cracks under strong mechanical stress, even though Beats headphones are considered to be of high quality and relatively inexpensive headphones.
Replacing the plastic bow in beats headphones is considered a trivial service, and due to the great demand for this type of repair, suppliers of high-quality bows of various colors have appeared in Moscow: black, white, red, blue.
Our headphone repair service will be able to carry out such a repair within an hour, if the spare part of the required color and for the required model is available.
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DIY headphone repair
It often happens that our beloved and very dear headphones break down, even if they are from the well-known beats company. In this article, we will consider, using the example of simple headphones, how to repair headphones with your own hands, and according to this article and description, you can repair any brands yourself.
The first moment. Possibility of re-installation of the detached plug. The headphones in the photo are not expensive, so buying a new plug for them at a cost comparable to the price of several new ones is not serious.
We clamp the working part firmly enough with small pliers (ideally through rubber) and turn the plastic part of the plug several times (in either direction), while the clamped part should be stationary. Then we take out the metal part from the plastic one (with some effort).
The inlet for the metal part is cleaned of the previous contents using a drill with a diameter of 4 mm, the channel of the plastic part with the remaining wire in it is cleaned (drilled) with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm.
When ready, we remove the insulation from the first 30 mm from the free side of the wire going directly to the headphones, twist it into a bundle and thread it into the plastic part from the side of the wire supply.
We leave the bare wires of 5 mm in length, twist two of the same color together, tin everything, solder, bite off the protruding ends. Twisted wires to ground, the rest - one to the right, the other to the left channel. We cover with varnish "Tsapon". As it dries, cover the joint with glue, which, when hardened, will give a hard "crust". We insert the working part of the plug into place. It will take some effort. We apply it carefully. No sound? This means that one of the wires was cut off. Incorrectly inserted or insufficiently cleaned the installation site with a drill. We repeat everything from the beginning.
The second moment. The ability to disassemble (open) the case of the headphone itself and gain access to the speaker. The two halves of the case are almost always glued together, but the degree of strength of this adhesive connection is always different. Depends on the glue used by the manufacturer. The photo shows the most difficult case. After passing along the perimeter with a thin needle, in order to clean the gap between the halves of the case and partially remove the glue, it was not possible to separate them (tried to pull, turn and squeeze).
Then there remains the last resort for separation - the use of a solvent. Better that it was not acetone. The cleaned gap, along the entire perimeter, is filled with a sufficient amount of solvent and no more, and after the start of its action, persistent attempts are made to disconnect.
Which necessarily lead to the logical completion of what was started. The speaker is visible, there is a possibility of inspection and serviceability check. And now comes the turn of nuances.
Before soldering, everything is not only called by the tester without fail, but with the help of connecting wires it is trivially listened to with your own ear. Belief in blind luck will surely spoil the nervous system in the future.
The wires from the speakers are not soldered off, but very neatly bite off near the soldering point (it is best to use small nail scissors), which will increase the likelihood of the speakers remaining in good order.
Before soldering the wire to the speaker, as a last resort, before installing the speaker in the case, be sure to tie them in a knot (not tight). Now, even with a relatively strong jerk, the headphones will continue to function. The knot is performed at a certain distance. At a small distance from the node to the speaker, the wire will come off from it. With a large one, there will be "a lot" of wires and it will take up the internal space without leaving enough space for the speaker.
It is not advisable to disassemble the headphones to the level of the speaker components. Is that for educational purposes. If the wire going from the contact to the coil is cut off, accept it.
The coil wire is only three microns thick and you have to be a GREAT enthusiast to work with it. This diameter is suitable for a nominal value of approximately 200 - 300 mA. That's all about headphone repair - there will be questions - ask in the comments.
Sorry guys will not tell you the place that plastic. Which from Samsun with what isho can you glue?
thanks, good advice, helped me. I will say more that my bow broke very close to the headphone mount, i.e. it was more difficult, but nevertheless it worked out. By the way, I used plastic from a phone card.
Briefly and to the point. Thanks!
what to do if the fracture is in the center?
will plastic go from the box from under the cotton swabs? and what kind of glue did you use?
It is useless to glue. I also tried to fix it with fiberglass.
Firstly, the bonding zone becomes inelastic, the bending force is redistributed over other areas, which they readily break. Or the glued joint bursts. If you glue only on the inside, in order to hide it later with an overlay, then again there are two options: glued in three or four layers of fiberglass - it will burst in another place.
Secondly, the bow is thick. And if, when unbending, the inner part of the arch “stretches”. This can be clearly seen if, in a free state, it is sealed with something that is not elastic (namely, in tension). And there will be no way to resolve this issue at all.
I solved the issue by buying cheap headphones from another company with a metal arc made of some kind of springy stainless steel. I cut off the old arc and screwed in its place a stainless steel arc cut off in place. Fasteners with 2 M3 screws on each side. There is only one minus - the stainless steel arc is thin and squeezes the headphones on the ears much weaker. Those. when running, they no longer sit as tightly, but strive to jump off. But the question is solved by adding another arc or using a thicker arc from other headphones)
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How to repair broken or broken headphones? At some point, this terrible day will come someday, and your headphones or ear pads will tell you to live a long time. Luckily, you don't need to run out and buy new ones! You can fix them yourself by looking at an electronics store first. The parts being repaired are quite fragile, so that interference can completely break them. But since the headphones are already broken, you still have nothing to lose.
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