DIY wind instrument repair

Master restorer of brass wind instruments
Kotlyar Mikhail Efimovich

Ivkin Nikolay Petrovich
mob. 8903-775-45-12

Friends, leave useful information on craftsmen and workshops in this top!

> Tell me who contacted Mikhail Efimovich Kotlyar.
> Is he a good master?
> Does it work neatly?
> How are the prices?

I work in a large theater, and not only do I trust him with my French horns, but also musicians from the BSO, the state orchestra, and many others use his services.

> Tell me who contacted Mikhail Efimovich Kotlyar.
> Is he a good master?
> Does it work neatly?
> How are the prices?

The prices are high.
But it works in such a way that you CANNOT FIND any traces of the former defect. It straightens dents in the metal so that the tool looks like new at all.

In the summer I saw the Saxon “Selmer Mark VI” in his workshop, which had a THROUGH hole next to the hook under the right thumb. A couple of weeks later they showed me the trunk of this Saxon - there was not even a trace of the hole there. This is how Misha put the brass patch. How he did it - FIG knows. The trail from this hole was noticeable only if you look from the inside of the trunk. And then it was ONLY a TRACE, and to the touch, even from the inside, everything was perfectly smooth.

"Le Petit Atelier"
Repair and maintenance of clarinets!

The restoration workshop carries out repairs, restoration and tuning of musical instruments. Restores the bodies of antique instruments made of wood, inlaid with valuable species, marquetry, mosaics, mother-of-pearl, bone. Restoration of pianos, pianos, grand piano, harmonium, organ, guitar, violin, flute, harp. As well as repair of cases and covers for musical instruments.

Free estimate the cost of restoration, possibly by sending a photo of your instrument to our mail

In the repair and restoration of musical instruments, including pianos, pianos, grand pianos, means for gluing and finishing wooden parts are of decisive importance. Modern industry offers a rich assortment of adhesives, varnishes, waxes, oils for repair and restoration. Undoubtedly, they are all of high quality, but we, by tradition, use natural old bone or skin glue, alcohol polishes, labor-consuming but effective technologies.

The varnish on the instrument must be kept in good condition.

Firstly, the lacquer finish protects the body of the instrument from moisture, pollution, penetration of harmful bacteria into the wood fibers, fungal spores, destroying the wood of micro and macro organisms. Even if the piano, grand piano, violin or cello are treated with care, the repair of the lacquer finish is inevitable.

Secondly, it makes the top layer of the wooden surface stronger, preventing the appearance of small chips and scratches, deformations. Especially noticeable on glossy black piano surfaces.

Thirdly, it gives the wood of the body of a musical instrument additional beauty and play of color. Pianos or grand pianos with precious veneers are beautiful in themselves.

Fourthly, the polishes, silky to the touch, make the instrument pleasant to touch.

French polishing (varnish repair) - art restoration. It takes a long time to learn, but the result is worth it. A musical instrument restorer rarely buys polish from a store. As a rule, the master himself prepares a solution of shellac in alcohol of the required concentration. Shellac can be dark golden brown in color. Used for dark woods: mahogany, ebony, rosewood.Clarified shellac is good for light varieties of walnut, birch, ash, maple.

When repairing a piano, a piano finished with shellac, there is no need to completely remove the worn, damaged varnish, shellac regenerates the old layers, giving the item an exquisite luxurious look. Before processing, the surface is cleaned, degreased, and, if necessary, sanded. In rare cases, the surfaces of the piano are primed with linseed oil or wax. When applied correctly, varnish can produce both glossy and silky surfaces. To increase the gloss, rosin is added to the solution. To add silkiness - wax.

Throughout the entire path of development of a civilized society, mankind was accompanied by music. The history of the development of musical culture can be judged by the preserved picturesque and sculptural images of antique works of arts and crafts and painting.

For example, the physical harmony we have restored can be seen in the paintings of Italian and Dutch painters of the 16th - 17th centuries, but only from the beginning of the 19th century the instrument received its modern name (from the Greek physa - "bellows"). The closest relatives of vegginella, harpsichord, clavichord, spinet.

Musical instruments in the visual and decorative arts are depicted as attributes of muses and allegories of Peace, “good government”, in this sense, the musical characters are considered “children of Venus”, personifying peace, love, harmony, which is associated with musical harmony, harmony.

In classical art, stringed instruments are often depicted - symbols of harmony, "fine arts": harp, lyre, cithara, lute, forming. Wind instruments - avlos, flute, flute, syrinx, shalmey - are attributes of the Dionysian cult, a passionate orgasmic beginning in art. The attribute of the Egyptian goddess Isis was the sistrum. Less often they depicted a tambourine, trumpet, bagpipes, psaltery. In Christian iconography with musical instruments - organ, clavichord, harp or lute - they represented Saint Tsicisia, the patroness of music. In painting of the 17th - 18th centuries. Chamber moods in the depiction of cozy interiors and family scenes, for example, in the paintings of the Little Dutch, were created using the depiction of home playing music. Musical instruments, strings and winds, retain their symbolic meaning in decorative compositions of interiors and exteriors of the architecture of Classicism, Baroque, Rococo, Modern.

Accordion, accordion, harmonica - primordially Russian instruments. Their distant ancestor is the harmonium, one of the first keyboard musical instruments, the ancestor of the piano, grand piano.

In the middle and second half of the 20th century, teaching music to children was considered prestigious in the USSR. The mass movement has embraced all segments of the population. Violins, flutes, button accordions, cellos settled in elite houses and on the outskirts of workers. The pinnacle of well-being was considered to have a piano. In the interiors they were given a place of honor. An indispensable entertainment of any holiday or feast was listening to a piece of a piece of music included in the program of the nearest music school performed by your beloved child. Until now, children of the 70s laughingly tell what tricks they went to, just to get rid of boring musical activities. Currently, the boom in general education in music has died down. New high-tech musical instruments made of plastic have appeared, filled with sophisticated electronics, with almost unlimited possibilities. All this is fine, but the good old instruments made of wood, covered with unique varnishes, finished with valuable species of wood and precious inlays of bone, mother-of-pearl, horn, ebony still live in old families, keeping the memory of the talented musicians who played them.

For many years we have been engaged in the restoration of unique items that require repair, including wooden cases and ancient musical instruments made of wood.We cooperate with restorers and tuners of museums, conservatories and theaters. To determine the cost of restoration of the instrument, or to get advice on the methods and ways of its restoration, you can fill out our form.

In order for your wind instrument worked properly, it is necessary to constantly monitor its condition and perform simple care procedures. If you care for your instrument correctly, protect it from extreme storage conditions, keep the mechanisms in working order, monitor the lubrication and regularly clean the instrument, it will last 100 years or more.

The tips below are useful for all brass players, regardless of whether you play on pipe or French horn, tuba, trombone, cornet or sousaphone... They are suitable for anyone wind brass instrument with valve mechanism.

First of all, you must find a master to whom you can turn to when the instrument needs repair, deep cleaning. There is a golden rule: “If you want the instrument to serve for a long time and properly, you need to take care of it as much as it needs, but only by one master who knows what is important and has the necessary tools.

Simple but important routine care procedures should be performed by the musician himself. After each playing on the instrument, it is imperative to drain the accumulated liquid from the barrel and purge the instrument while operating the valves. Be sure to place the instrument in case dry.

Human saliva is very rich in calcium. Each time after use, calcium accumulates inside the barrel, and also gets on the mechanical parts of the valve mechanisms. Accumulated calcium on the inner walls of the barrel and tubes can affect the intonation and timbre of the instrument. If it gets on parts of the valve mechanics that are not sufficiently lubricated with oil, the accumulated calcium becomes the cause of running problems in 90 out of a hundred cases.

First of all, make it a rule to check the valve alignment with the master every 3-4 months. Lubricate the valves yourself regularly. The valves must be filled with oil at least once every 4 weeks. Use valve oil medium viscosity. Dip half a drop on the valve shaft from above and below, onto the hinges and the valve mounting shaft. Do not allow oil to come into contact with the silicone plugs!

If calcium has accumulated in the valves and the stroke is impaired because of this, remove the calcium by rotating the valve and wiping it with a simple cloth. Never use acid! Rotation may be slowed down by filling in too thick oil. In this case, disassemble the valve, clean the pistons and barrels with a cloth or drip liquid oil through the crowns into the valve, without removing the accumulated fat from the crowns. This is the simplest method, if you repeat this procedure periodically, you will develop experience with the correct dosage, and you will protect the instrument from the accumulation of calcium on the inner walls.

The muzzle should be cleaned with a special brush about once every six months. Mouthpiece cleaned brush and a special scraper. The mouthpiece can be held under running water and cleaned with a brush and brush. Once a year, the entire body of the instrument should be cleaned under running water; for this, the mechanisms must first be removed.

Even if you are not playing the instrument, do not keep it in an enclosed case at all times. It is necessary to periodically expose it to ventilation and wipe dry thoroughly.

If the mechanics are too noisy, and you cannot eliminate the noise by filling with oil, contact the technician as soon as possible. For repairing, it is important to squeeze the valve neck along its entire length. To do this, the master must have a special device with a crimping mechanism. Conventional cones will not be able to squeeze the neck completely. Possible longitudinal backlash can be removed by adjusting the size of the keg die edge.To remove calcium deposits, rotate the valve in the barrel, grinding the calcium with valve oil. Remains of the mixture must be removed with a dry cloth. The remaining thin layer of calcium and dark colored oxide can be left. Do not use acid or polish the sealing surfaces.

Sometimes black spots can form under the varnish, in this place liquid has accumulated between the metal and the varnish. If such a stain has formed on your instrument, scrape the varnish with a thin needle to the metal, the stain will not develop further. In order not to spoil the surface of the varnish, do not leave the tool in the open sun and near heating devices.

An electric drill in a home workshop takes a special place. Therefore, tool breakage is a big enough nuisance. Despite the complexity of the design, it is quite possible to make an independent repair.

2.button with switch-on unit - can be equipped with

reverse switch (speed regulator);

3. shaft rotation speed regulator (or reverse switch);

4.Gearbox housing - carries out load-bearing functions for rotating

5. gears and reducer mechanism;

6. bearings of the shaft of the cartridge and the armature of the engine;

8. brush assembly of the electric motor;

9. chuck with drill or cutter holding mechanism.

The drill never breaks as a whole: one of the elements fails. Having understood the design and interconnection of the power tool assemblies, it will be easier to localize the malfunction.

Drill repair is carried out according to the principle "from simple to complex". You should not immediately disassemble the tool to the screw, and assess the condition of all nodes at the same time.

• The drill does not turn on. We start with the power cord (at least before that, you should check the voltage in the outlet and extension cord). Having disassembled the case, we find the cable contacts, and "ring" them with a multimeter.

Important! Do not check the power cable with voltage applied! If the current-carrying conductors break, you can get an electric shock, or organize a short circuit.

We connect to the socket of the mains plug and the opposite terminal of the cord. Then we bend the cable several times along its entire length. Lost contact or its complete absence indicates the presence of an open circuit inside the insulation. If the fracture of the current-carrying conductor is close to the edge, the cable is cut and reconnected. It will just be a little shorter. If the gap is in the middle of the length, it is better to replace the wire. The splicing will be unsafe.

• The cord is working properly - we check the switch. We connect the multimeter to the terminals, and press the key. A large current flows through the contacts, sparking occurs (especially when dust enters the case). Contacts can corny oxidized. Carefully disassemble the switch body and clean the contact groups with fine sandpaper.

In case of breakage of metal parts, it is better to purchase a new unit.

• If there is an additional contact group in the circuit between the switch and the electric motor (for example, a reverse switch or a speed regulator), we diagnose this node as well.
• Next, we check the connecting wires from the switch to the motor brushes. If they are in order, we diagnose the brush assembly.

The springs should confidently press the brushes against the anchor lamellas; we check the carbon elements themselves for wear. If necessary, we change: spare parts are included in the delivery set, or purchased in specialized stores. The armature contact strips can be oxidized or clogged. They can be gently cleaned with fine sandpaper.

• A more complex breakdown is failure of the armature or stator windings. Using a multimeter, a short circuit is checked between the body of the unit and the contacts of the windings. Then the resistance is measured. The value should be the same on each winding, the variation in readings should be no more than 5%. Defective windings must be rewound.

• This can be done on your own, or in a repair shop (in any case, it will be cheaper than buying a new engine).

Such breakdowns manifest themselves quite clearly. Extraneous noise, grinding, shaft jamming, etc.

• The motor rotates slowly and the windings get very hot. Or, during normal rotation, a characteristic hum (grinding) is heard. Most likely - the rotor bearings are worn out or clogged. Having disassembled the drill body, we carefully take out the rotor. It is removed together with the bearings. By twisting the outer clip, you will immediately determine the malfunction. If the bearings rotate tightly, they must be flushed with a penetrating liquid (WD-40 or regular kerosene)

Important! Make sure that no liquids get into the armature winding! Otherwise, the insulating varnish may dissolve, and an inter-turn circuit will occur.

Then grease is placed between the clips for high-revving units. Lithol or graphite grease for automotive bearings will do.

If there is a backlash between the bearing races, the units must be replaced.

Dismantling is carried out with a special puller or with an open-end wrench.

If there are no balls, be sure to find them in the case. Dropped objects can get caught between engine or gearbox parts and damage the entire unit.

• The bearings of the chuck shaft are diagnosed and repaired in the same way. Only dismantling them without a puller will not work.
• If the mounting place of the outer bearing race (bed) is worn out (this happens when the bearing is jammed), you will need to make liners of thin sheet metal. Otherwise, beating will occur when the shaft rotates.
• The engine rotates in normal mode, noise and grinding noise are heard from the gearbox housing. The shaft turns unevenly. Worn or destroyed gears of the reducer.

We disassemble the case and examine the gears.

It is advisable to wash the assembly of old grease and rotate the shaft 360 °, controlling the engagement of the gears. If a backlash or excessive wear of the teeth is detected, the mechanical part will have to be changed.

Perhaps a large amount of dust has simply accumulated in the gearbox housing. Together with the lubricant, an abrasive paste is formed. In this case, after flushing the assembly, simply add new grease.

Tip: The grease should be changed periodically without waiting for breakage.

Especially if you often drill stone walls.

• The cartridge is broken. For cam devices (turnkey) this is a great rarity, the design is reliable and simple. The unit is exposed to dust, so the internal mechanism can easily jam. Most often, the gripper guides are clogged with small abrasive particles.

If the chuck does not twist well, it is enough to blow it out with compressed air and treat it with a penetrating lubricant.

Attention: The jaw chucks do not lubricate the inside!

It is quite difficult to disassemble a part without a special tool. If some component is mechanically broken inside, you still have to change the entire assembly.

But keyless chucks, on the contrary, are easily disassembled and repaired.

They are not as reliable and do not carry the load well. To disassemble such a cartridge, it is enough to remove a pair of lock washers. You will easily find a broken or worn part that can be easily replaced.

There are two types of fastening: Morse taper, and threaded. In the first case, you need to inflict several blows with a small hammer on the back of the cartridge. After which it can be easily removed.

To unscrew the threaded fastener, the shaft is held with a wrench (there are special flats on the shaft).

There are no faults that cannot be corrected by hand. If a separate unit cannot be restored, only it changes, there is no need to buy a new drill.

To prevent breakdowns, you should adhere to simple rules:

• After dusty work, blow out the ventilation holes and the interior of the cartridge. Keep the instrument clean.
• Do not overheat the engine - take breaks for prolonged use.
• Refill the grease on the rotating parts periodically.

Today, the popularity of household appliances powered by electricity is constantly growing, but minor breakdowns sometimes occur during operation. The electric stove is present in every modern kitchen - it is the heart of this space. When a kitchen assistant fails, many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to repair an electric stove with their own hands?

Firstly, a home craftsman who decides to repair an electric stove on his own must at least understand electrical appliances, know the elementary fundamentals of electrical engineering and safety rules when carrying out this type of work. Secondly, you need to be sure that you can perform such a complex repair, and most importantly, find and eliminate the root cause of the breakdown. Third, it is necessary to prepare special tool.

When dismantling electric stoves, you will need screwdrivers for various purposes: for a cross or slot, with different thicknesses, the so-called tip specialists. You will definitely need keys - open-end and capscrews, pliers, wire cutters. For internal work in the body of the product, a soldering iron, side cutters, an insulating tape and, of course, a special device for measuring voltage and resistance are useful.

The photo shows only an approximate set of the necessary tools - during work, the assortment of the tools used tends to significantly expand.

The electric stove looks very impressive - it is a complex household appliance, but its design is quite simple, and all the main working elements are in a special heat-resistant housingwhich is made of stainless steel.

The principle of operation is similar to all electrical household appliances: the current, passing through heating elements (TEN), heats them to a predetermined temperature. The stove has several burners on the hob, and their number varies: at least two, and the standard is 4. For example, the budget Mechta 15M electric stove has only two burners and a small oven, and the product of Belarusian engineers Hephaestus has a standard set of burners and a voluminous oven.

Burner structure quite varied. Classics are burners on an enameled hob with heating elements inside, modern ones are solid ceramic surfaces with heaters of various types built into them. Let's consider the main types of burners.

1. Old domestic options are equipped with products cast iron, they slowly heat up and also cool down, creating a steam effect in the kitchen, but they are resistant to moisture and high temperatures.
2. Tubular spirals - they are made from a hollow tube, when heated, such devices not only give off heat, but also promote the circulation of warm air inside their case, which significantly increases their efficiency. These products are very difficult to repair yourself.
3. Hotplates ceramic they are very simple in design, they are easy to repair at home - the nichrome spiral is placed in special cells in a circle and fixed. In modern models, glass-ceramic solid plates are increasingly used - they are more durable and easy to clean.
4. Halogen devices - these are special burners with a similar emitter, which are installed in different places on the hob. A stove with such burners provides quick heating, in a second, and low power consumption, so they are the most economical, but only professional craftsmen can repair them.

All models of modern stoves to transfer current to the burners use power wire special section, in addition, they are connected to regulators and thermostats, ensuring their protection against overheating.

In different models, the heating level is controlled in different ways: by manually changing the cooking mode or by special timers and alarms that control.

During the operation of electric stoves, users may encounter such typical malfunctions.

1. Sometimes when the product is turned on, burning smell - it is necessary to turn off the stove and inspect the burners, on which the remains of burnt food could remain, which can be easily removed. When there is a smell of burnt plastic or rubber, then you need to call the master.
2. The heating element does not heat up - here is the fault of the burner or the connecting wires, but first you need to check the controls, maybe the contact has gone away.
3. Impossible adjust the optimal temperature heating the hotplate - it is necessary to repair the switch.
4. The hotplate does not heat up - if you have a spiral inside, then it often ruptures from overheating or moisture ingress. In this case, it is very easy to repair the electric stove - replace the spiral, that's the whole repair.
5. The oven is not working well - it is necessary to ring the heating elements, in 100% it is their fault, replacement is required, since they are not being repaired.

Attention! If the electric stove was connected independently, then not a single service will do repairs for free - you have lost the right to warranty service.

The process of finding equipment failure does not depend on the model of the product and the type of hob or the burners installed on it.

First, using a voltmeter, you need to check the voltage. Do not exclude the possibility of the circuit breaker being triggered, the insulation of the wiring may be broken or the reason lies in the outlet... If so, then it is necessary to disassemble it, and clarify the reason.

If the indicator lights up on the control panel, and the stove does not work, then there is no power supply to the burners, which means that you need to disassemble the stove.

The correct operation of the mechanical or electronic control unit should be checked - measure the current flow to the burner terminals with the device.

Check the heating element of each burner to find a burned-out coil.

Inspect all thermal sensors, relays and various regulators.

Our task is to find a malfunction and localize the resulting problem. After following all the recommendations, you will find the reason for the failure of the equipment, and we will tell you how to fix it a little later.

Models of slabs are different not only in external shape, but also in size, design - it is impossible to describe a disassembly algorithm that will fit all products. Common factor for all is the presence of a thermal insulation layer - here you need to work with him very carefully. Users should be aware that the asbestos dust from the gaskets under the burners in older models is very harmful to health - keep this fact in mind when disassembling archaic stoves.

initially the hob is dismantled - it is fastened with screws, if you unscrew them, then it can be easily removed. Under it are the burners, supplying wires to them and mechanical temperature regulators, which are located on the front panel.

All this must be dismantled in order to get to the lower part, where the heating elements of the oven are located.

At a modern electric hob with a hob made of glass ceramics disassembling the case for repair will be different - in order to get inside, you just need to remove the top panel.

Important! Repair of glass-ceramic hobs is carried out only by specialists of the service center - amateurs with superficial knowledge and lack of experience should not touch such complex equipment.

Below are the common breakdowns of electric cookers. Some of them can be fixed by yourself, others require professional diagnostics and repair.

If you have a stove with burners, then in order to change them, you need to act according to this method.

1. We unscrew the nut and remove the grounding.
2. There may be a ring or bracket under it that presses the part to the base.
3. The burner is fastened with a threaded connection or simply inserted into a special hole. In the first case, we lubricate the thread with oil and carefully try to unscrew it from the case, in the second case, we pry it with a screwdriver and take it out.
4. If the model is of the old model, then it is better to immediately replace the burned-out burners with modern and economical models that are suitable in size.
   
5. If the burners are in good working order, then the reason for the failure lies in control unit - a large current flows through the mechanical regulators, and carbon deposits can form on delicate contacts, which are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to repair or replace a switch on an electric cooker.

1. If there are no clicks when turning the regulator, this indicates that it is defective.
2. There is an original check of its condition: we put the regulator in the middle position, apply voltage to the stove, the automatic protection should work - turn on and off after 30 seconds.
3. Before removing the handles, you must study the instructions - on some models they do not understand (Gefest, Kaiser).
4. First, the control knobs are removed from the outside, then we unscrew the front panel.
5. A bar is installed under it, which must be removed in order to get to the broken regulator.

If the click is inaudible when the relay is turned on, then it is necessary to check for the presence of a signal - if it is absent, the reason lies in the microprocessor itself or in the cascade at the output. To repair an electronic unit, you need to have a schematic diagram and understand the complexities of radio engineering... If there is no knowledge and skills, then it is better to turn to specialists - otherwise you will have to buy a new electric stove.

Modern electric stoves on heating elements quite often use a cascade-type burner heating thermostat.

Sometimes there is a breakdown of such a regulator, for which an identical replacement can be found. Experienced masters advise to install triac type such a device, you just need to take it with a margin of power and current strength. In some models, it is installed on one board along with a heatsink. When the burner of the stove is operating at maximum, and the heating control cannot be changed, this indicates that it was the regulator that failed for an unknown reason - it urgently needs to be replaced.

Each user should understand that modern household appliances are crammed with electronics, each model has its own, different from others, nuance of manufacturing and control - mechanical or electronic. Outside interference without special knowledge and skills can negatively affect the delicate filling of electric stoves.

If you have a simple stove with burners on an enameled hob, then you can repair it on your own by watching the video:

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Recently, a tool that is powered by electricity has become more and more popular. Everyone strives to acquire many different types of power tools.

Today, power tools are very popular, as they greatly facilitate the work.

He becomes a real au pair. Minor and major repairs and construction work becomes much easier. You may need it at the most unpredictable moment. Do-it-yourself power tool repair is a must. Today we will talk about the main components of any power tool, which most often fail.

During the operation of power tools, the on and off button very often fails.

The power tool on / off button is found on almost all devices of this type. It allows you to start or stop equipment at the right time. Most often, it is this button that fails during operation. It can be repaired. You don't have to worry too much. You can do it quite simply.Any manufacturer today uses non-standard buttons, but they can always be ordered from specialized stores.

Of course, you will have to wait until the desired copy arrives, but it will be worth it. A simple replacement is most often the only way out of this situation. If the button was damaged only on the outside, then you can use some suitable material for replacement. Cut a button of the desired size from a piece of plastic or metal. This is done very simply using ordinary tools.

Further, the installation is carried out directly. In fact, this method is primitive. Most often, you still have to deal with internal damage. The button can simply stick or break contact. It's easy to check with the right tool at hand. A tester, or multimeter, will be the best option in this case.

To carry out testing, you will have to disassemble the tool in order to have access to the button itself, more precisely, to its contacts. Next, using a tester, you need to check whether the make and break contacts are working correctly. If everything is correct, then you can look for the problem in another node. So, the button is considered the most frequent breakdown of a power tool, but not the only one. Repairing a power tool may involve other equipment manipulation.

The electric motor is installed on most instruments. In the event of a motor failure, the breakdown is almost impossible to detect immediately, but it can still be done. Sometimes the engine burns out. A rotating mechanism can jam in it. In any case, testing is necessary.

First, you should check the equipment for jamming. This can be done with a simple hand movement. You need to take the power tool by the working shaft and rotate it. If he refuses to rotate easily, then we can safely say that either the engine itself or the gearbox that connects it to the working body has broken down. With this breakdown, it is imperative to disassemble the device. Most often, this process does not take long. You just need to unscrew all the fastening bolts, and then separate the two parts, which are connected into a single whole. Now the components of the structure open before the eyes.

The gearbox must be disconnected from the engine. This is the only way to clearly determine what exactly the breakdown is. If the motor does not rotate when the gearbox is removed, then it is in it. Perhaps the main problems can be detected already by visual inspection. Maybe all the troubles are hidden in the presence of some foreign body that got into the gearbox. It is easy to see it even with the naked eye. It is these surpluses that are subject to liquidation. Perhaps they caused the jam.

You can check the performance of the engine using a multimeter.

A situation may arise when nothing is visible. In this situation, it is worth checking the engine directly. It is extremely simple to do this with the help of the same multimeter, which serves in this case for continuity of the motor windings. To do this, you need to put it in the appropriate resistance measurement mode.

It is worth checking the breakdown to the case. If the windings are damaged, this means that you need to try to restore this violation. But this is extremely difficult to do. Much easier to replace the engine. For this, he is removed from his rightful place. This may require the use of a special tool. Of course, a soldering iron is also needed here. With it, you can easily unsolder all the terminals from the button, from the control circuit, if there is one on the power tool. Now you can make repairs directly at the workplace, or rather, replace it.

Diagram of the gearbox using a screwdriver as an example.

Now it's time to talk about another very important part of any power tool, namely the gearbox. It allows the transmission of torque from the motor shaft to the working body. In this case, rotation can be carried out at several different speeds. Everything directly depends on what effort and speed of work is required. Breakdowns here can be varied. The simplest method of repairing a power tool will be prescribed if a foreign body simply gets into the working body of the gearbox. In this case, you need to delete it.

This is done easily, of course, it all depends directly on what kind of foreign body is present. More complex breakdowns may occur, which involve the disassembly of the entire gearbox. The design can be very diverse. Regardless of this, it will have to be disassembled and the integrity of the structure considered. A variety of gears may be present here. They can simply crumble, since in some cases, especially in inexpensive models, they are made of ordinary plastic.

Sometimes other components of the power tool, more precisely, its gearbox, can also become unusable. It is imperative to consider all faults. If it's all about small design changes, then the trouble can be removed immediately. Otherwise, it may become necessary to completely replace the gearbox, and this is a very troublesome business.

Power cord insulation diagram.

Another common power tool breakdown is the failure of the power cord. It can simply break off. Possible short circuit. All this is easy to calculate. If visible damage on the insulated cable is invisible, then you can try to disassemble the tool. Maybe this is where the cable was broken or kinked? Inspect the insulation carefully. If it is damaged, it should be repaired immediately. This is done using either shrink tape or ordinary electrical tape.

Of course, the second option is easier to pick up. In this case, you first need to look: are there any wire closures on the case? If there are any, then it is imperative to eliminate them.

You can call the cable with a tester.

Use a tester to test the cable.

One end of it is applied to the wire, and the other to the body of the power tool. If the resistance is exactly infinity, then everything is in order, there can be no talk of any short circuit. If it rings for a short time, then you should carefully inspect the cable. In some cases, the cause may not be the wire, but the motor itself to which it is connected. This is a fairly complex mechanism that requires careful study.

As a last resort, you can try replacing the cable. This is done very simply. You need to buy a new plug and assemble it with a new wire. As a result of the tests, the device should start to operate with the same characteristics as before.

Of course, you can immediately purchase a wire with a ready-made plug. This will make the job much easier. In any case, a soldering iron will also have to be used. With its help, the ends of the wire are soldered to the corresponding terminals on the power tool itself. The repairs are not that long, but very difficult.

So, now you know how to repair a power tool. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this process. The main thing is that you should definitely focus on the instructions presented above. Only it will allow you to carry out high-quality repairs and diagnostics of all components of the power tool.