Do-it-yourself Volga door repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of Volga doors from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

good people, please provide photos and tips for repairing doors on 3110.

the problem is in the very bottom of the doors + corners, even the “box” of the door has not yet been touched, it is necessary to restore it!

I ask for help - tips, photos, recommendations. + what to use when repairing? what putty, what thickness to take the metal?

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Sport is the solution!
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the fact of the matter is that I bought 4 doors + trunk "cracker" for 2 thousand!

I ask you to share information, and not write with a template that it is better to buy doors!

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• I live in constant fear that I will be understood correctly.

Anyone who does not understand what this threatens can try to offend the moderator!

Complaints against me and moderation of the "Smoking room" section not accepted!

Romantish, thanks, I'll read everything!

but opinions are still needed.

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good people, please provide photos and tips for repairing doors on 3110.

the problem is in the very bottom of the doors + corners, even the “box” of the door has not yet been touched, it is necessary to restore it!

I ask for help - tips, photos, recommendations. + what to use when repairing? what putty, what thickness to take the metal?

__________________
Sport is the solution!
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Beauty is a fearsome force.
But you shouldn't be particularly scared.

I have corners on my 2 doors, anticorilic on the inside, removed all the rust from the outside, primed, painted, varnished, and the rust crawled out again, if only a replacement went, it was enough for half a year, I'm waiting for the spring. and the advice is standard, read it out, prime it, paint it. good luck

Added after 5 minutes 14 seconds
Why did you take the rusty doors? Without rye, you can take it for analysis.

<img title="" alt="Image - Do-it-yourself Volga door repair" src="https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/529/images/smilies/new1/drinks.gif" style="float: left; margin: 0 10px 5px 0;" class="">

I have corners on my 2 doors, anticorilic on the inside, removed all the rust from the outside, primed, painted, varnished, and the rust crawled out again, if only a replacement went, it was enough for half a year, I'm waiting for the spring. and the advice is standard, read it out, prime it, paint it. good luck

Added after 5 minutes 14 seconds
Why did you take the rusty doors? Without rye, you can take it for analysis.

<img title="" alt="Image - Do-it-yourself Volga door repair" src="https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/529/images/smilies/new1/drinks.gif" style="float: left; margin: 0 10px 5px 0;" class="">

it is necessary to clean up to pure metal not only the heels of rye, but a little more, because a piece of rye could go further

and what kind of soil did you use and paint

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Beauty is a fearsome force.
But you shouldn't be particularly scared.

And why collective farm? If the corrosion is through over a large area, then the doors are sent to the trash can, with minor damage, this is done. The damaged area is cut out, a patch is inserted equal to the cut out area, kerchiefs are cooked from the inside to fix it, after which the patch is point-welded along the perimeter. In case of non-perforating corrosion, it is cleaned with an abrasive wheel P-80 (and only without metal hedgehogs.) To pure metal, do not overheat (blue and tarnishing). Further priming with acidic primer, puttying, priming with filler primer and painting. I don't post a photo, it's just lazy to make a visual aid, now I work mainly with fiberglass.

Shl to restore the body elements in this way only makes sense if there are a shortage of elements, it is more rational to buy a new one. Remove the transport soil with an abrasive, or a special circle for removing paintwork to clean metal, and then processing with acid soil, acrylic soil and painting. As a result, the cost is about the same, but the new element takes less time + it is NEW. Inside the door, there is also acidic soil, acrylic soil, Shumka and anticorrosive can be used.

Restyling of the Volga-31105 in 2004 also touched the doors of the car. Brapo locks were installed, making the closing almost silent. The exterior handles have also been updated, and the door trim has been made with improved material.

Classic design of the car GAZ 31105

power windows;
protection of the rear door from opening by a child;
gas struts on the fifth tailgate;
electronic adjustment of the outside rear-view mirrors;
decorative overlays on plastic;
electrically operated door locks.

Back to the table of contents

There may not be so many reasons for removing the doors of the GAZ-31105 car:

Removing doors from the Volga 31105

replacement in case of damage;
replacement of sagging loops.

The front door of the car is removed in this order:

if power windows and audio preparation are installed in it, then you will need to disconnect the wires (first of all, for this you will need to remove the door card);
remove the protective cover and stop from the hinge on the body;
under the plastic covers there are three bolts on which the hinge is held - turn them out;
remove the door.

Subsequent installation is similar to removal, only the actions are performed in the reverse order. After hanging on the loop, adjustment is necessary. It runs as follows:

fastening bolts are loosened;
the door is closed and installed with uniform openings along the entire perimeter;
carefully open the door and tighten the bolts.

In the event that the actions performed did not help achieve the desired result, you can try the second option for adjusting the GAZ-31105 door. To do this, loosen the bolts securing the hinge to the body and adjust the position of the door with it. Then also carefully open it and tighten the bolts.

Disassembly can be done by one person, it does not require any additional skills and tools. It is enough to have a powerful Phillips and flat screwdrivers and a head for 8.

(The principle of removing all the doors of the GAZ-31105 car is similar, therefore, the front right is given as an example, since it has additional equipment in the form of a mirror, an electric window regulator, acoustic preparation, a lock drive).

Remove the rearview mirror.

Rear-view mirrors of the car GAZ 31105

The door trim is installed by performing the same steps, only in reverse order. Disassembling the rear doors is even easier. They lack rear-view mirrors and acoustic training. Therefore, the back door of the GAZ-31105 car (right or left - no difference) is removed in the same way.

If the front door lock is out of order, you should not buy a new one right away. First, inspect it and check the technical condition of the larvae (cylinders). The key hole is broken, as a result, the lock can be opened with a simple screwdriver. Disassembly requires a flat screwdriver and pliers. The procedure is as follows:

Remove the door card.
Use a screwdriver to pry on the traction and, slightly bending it away from the larva, pull it off the bracket.
Next, pry on the metal retainer with a screwdriver and pull it out as far as we can. Using the pliers, remove the retainer from the lock completely.
From the side of the street, take out the lock cylinder from the opening.

The installation of a new larva in the right and left doors of the GAZ-31105 car is performed in the reverse order of removal.

The price of a set of larvae for a lock is not so high, so it is much easier to change them for both front doors at the same time, so as not to carry a set of several keys with you.

Advice! When replacing the lock cylinder, replace the rubber seals with new ones, this will ensure that you do not damage the paintwork.

As a result of damage to the tailgate (fifth rear door), it will need to be removed. Disassembly does not take much time, and you can do it yourself in a garage. The procedure is as follows:

remove the negative terminal from the battery;

disconnect the wiring connector;

remove the gas suspension support strut 31105;

with a marker, draw the border of the hinge lining in relation to the trunk lid;

the fifth door is fastened with four bolts (two on each side) - turn them out;

remove the cover from its hinges.

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
Attention! The rack contains high pressure gas. Strong heat or damage may result in explosion.Diagram of the trunk lid device from the Volga 31105

the bolts of the cover and hinges are loosened;

cover the door and expose it with even gaps on all sides;

carefully lift it up and tighten the retaining bolts;

height adjustment is carried out using adjusting buffers. The back door should be flush with the fenders; by twisting or unscrewing the buffers, we set it in the desired position.

Back to the table of contents

In order to remove the front side glass of the car, you will need to disassemble the door card, as well as remove the plastic overlays.

Wrap a flat screwdriver with electrical tape and, peeling off the fasteners, separate the plastic decorative strips from the door posts.

Now you can take out the glass through the vacant opening.

Image - Do-it-yourself Volga door repair

<img title="" alt="Image - Do-it-yourself Volga door repair" src="https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/789/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/sniatie9.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0 10px 5px 0;" class="">

Very often, when tinting a GAZ-31105 car, the question arises of how the right and left vents will be removed. This work is not false and is quite doable without going to a service station. Only one screwdriver is needed from the tools. To do this, you will need to perform several actions:

remove the door card;
unscrew the top screw that holds the side sliding glass pillar;
lower the glass all the way;
pulling off the sealing gum with a screwdriver, unscrew the lower screw of the rack fastening;
pulling off the upper part of the seal, remove the top of the rack from its position. Tilt the rack about 80 degrees and pull it out of the opening;
now move the side window glass forward and take it out of the window opening.

Volga, as a rule, lasts a long time. A caring owner has had decades, having gone through more than one renovation. Everything wears out, including the door hinges. Doors sag, knock on bumps in the road, ripping off an opening in the body. Locks are not working well. This is due to the wear of the hinges. To be sure, you need to open the door and try to swing it up and down. Dull bumps in the hinges and noticeable backlash confirm the need for repairs.

Remove the door trim (ZR, 1997, No. 8) and take out the plastic hinge screw caps.

We collect the hinges, install them on the door, and the door on the car in reverse order.

Before tightening the bolts completely, by moving the hinges, we adjust the position of the door, achieving uniform gaps in the opening. It may also be necessary to adjust the position of the door lock to ensure that it operates smoothly and easily.

Vladimir Arbuzov
Technical Center ZR "Mozhaisky"

For all motorists who own a GAZ 24 car, this article will be quite useful and interesting. Today we will consider how you can do it yourself, quite easily and simply, to repair the car door, which is rotten through and through.

As for the other parts of the car, as you can see in the photo, they have already been processed and ultimately, before painting, will look like this.

In our case, we will look at the "restoration" process from the very beginning. Where should you start? First of all, you need to cut out a rusty piece of the door, which has become completely unusable.

You will need to carefully look at where the metal is intact, that is, where rust has not touched it, and cut a part of the door straight to it.

After the rusted piece of the door is cut off, according to the resulting pattern, you will need to cut a new blank from metal (a regular sheet will do, for example, from the hood). In a way, you get an envelope in which you need to fold the edges. In addition, you will need to boil the inside of the door (replace the metal that has rotted).

As a result, the inner and outer parts will bend it.

When the rusty piece of the door is cut off, we get this kind of car.

The cut piece does not need to be cut into pieces, because, focusing on its size, we will cut the workpiece.

However, you will need to do it with a margin. It is advisable that the new workpiece goes under the metal, and not “butt to butt”.

It turns out that it will overlap, from the inside. Thus, at this point, the structure will be slightly stiffer than before.

In some places it will be necessary to make a joint-to-joint connection. The main part of the workpiece will go under the bottom of the remaining door.

It will need to be welded, sanded, as a result, part of the welding will remain on the metal, which will be depressed, and part of it will be in the metal joint. Thus, you get a somewhat reinforced structure.

How do we start direct door repair? It is necessary to get rid of the corrosion of the inner metal (this part will need to be completely cut out).

We will weld the new part, which will act as an internal base, to the supporting part.

It will consist of three parts.

That is, you first need to clean this area in order to get rid of traces of rust.You can see how to remove rust here.

First of all, after the rust has been removed, we cut a small piece out of a rectangular sheet of metal.

It is important to repeat the shape of the door on the workpiece itself. It is also recommended to leave a small side, in which you need to make slots with a grinder, which will then be welded into the metal of the door. The edges of these slots can be folded in any direction using pliers and thus almost any shape can be obtained.

This is how the workpiece should look when it falls into place. After that, all that remains is to scald it.

Why don't we shoot the door? This way we can better adjust the sill clearances. What I mean: the distance from the threshold to the edge of the workpiece is 1 cm, the same distance should remain between the doors.

That is, first you need to scald our new workpiece.

And then a rectangular piece of metal in that area.

The welded plate will look like this.

It's okay that she might look a little messy. This is the inside. The main thing is to weld it securely so that it holds. Here it is important not to forget to leave a gap of 1 cm between the threshold and the workpiece, as well as between the doors.

Our next step is to cut out the plate and fit it to the gap.

You should get such a plate.

Its edges need to be bent with a crumple fold. In it, the edges are bent at the side and bottom.

A small groove should also be left.

It will be in the part shown below.

Trying on how everything fits together. It remains to scald individual places so that everything is hermetically sealed.

This is how the welded back part of the door restored after rust will look like.

Places that will come into contact with the outer envelope must be cleaned.

After that, it remains to cut the envelope insert and weld it. What do we need? From a piece of metal, you will need to cut a square that would overlap the space of the door being restored.

It is also recommended to coat the already welded parts with an anti-corrosion primer.

The weld should also be coated with automotive sealant. To cut a new workpiece, you should attach an old piece, measure the distance, take into account the bend, that is, make sure that the result is a workpiece that looks like a cut piece.

Thus, we measure the required distance from one side and the other, draw lines and cut off.

For better bending, you need to throw out a piece of metal, leave a small groove that can be bent with pliers. This is needed to go to the doors. How to fold the edges so that everything is straight? Two corners will do, which we clamp in a vice.

It is important that they are on the same level. Then we insert the plate along the drawn line, align it with the plane of the corners, clamp and bend it with our hands. When the plate is bent, it will need to be leveled with a hammer. Then we take out the plate and bend the formed side with a hammer. As a result, you should get this kind of workpiece.

Then it will close and, thanks to a small margin, a complete bend will be obtained.

Now it remains to put the previously cut part on top of the workpiece, measure out the part of the required size, leave a small margin, adjust and weld it in place. This is the result you should get.

It is also important to check the gaps, which must be the same along the entire length and at the bottom. It is possible to reduce the clearance at the bottom. This is because the sides are not bent. After they are folded, the gap will increase. All that remains is to weld the new part with solid dots.

After that, all that remains is to give the new part a shape. At first, a stiffening rib may protrude somewhat, you will need to press it back.

However, after straightening and when the sides are bent, everything should fall into place. All that remains is to putty the new part of the door.

This option is good for everyone who does not have the opportunity to pay UAH 1,500 at once. out one door.Of course, you shouldn't let your car reach such a state, it is better to monitor it, use anti-corrosion agents and then the car will be able to serve for a long time.

After everything is welded, all that remains is to putty and paint the restored area. Thus, the car will look impressive enough. Compared to the initial state, we can say that it turned out more than expected.

I remember changing the pad on the Zhiguli

while this is so - paint with a couple of bubbles, opening and painting gives an effect for six months - again bubbles

the exposed iron is practically alive - i.e. no complaints

from the inside is regularly filled with grout
everything looks just PERFECT.

so for now. there is no rot - but mentally I am already preparing for this 🙂

I trust the masters, but some doubts begin to creep in
That's why

next time I will probably open it myself
because if the masters are right, then there is no point in paying them
if they cheat - even more so 🙂

yes, and age already allows you to paint it with a brush 🙂

Did you pick these bubbles yourself? If there really is a defect in the paintwork on the outside, then such a spider can be easily removed for a long time. Unless, of course, you do not cheat. Do not just grind and paint, but before painting, clean the rust completely, go through the converter, acid and porous primers.

I picked a dozen of these bubbles on the hood. however, consider it yourself:

Over the year, two fuzzy spots on the leading edge appeared again in two places: next to the black unprotected spot on the right. From the inside. Flanged. I, of course, tinted, but this is for another year.

And more - ugh * 3, nowhere. Therefore, either you do shitty, or rust comes from the inside.

do you understand 🙂 7 years, 170 tcm - everything looks perfect, but with the exception of a small piece 🙂
it seems like a little effort needs to be spent
so why not? 🙂

especially since it's not in a hurry yet 🙂

Oh well. the hopes of young men togos. there is one small nuance. if there is rot in the place of any scratch or chip this is one thing. But if the blooming of the paint is a completely different thing. This means that it rots from the inside out. And what you see outside is the tip of the iceberg, the most delicious is waiting for you inside.

a thickening little horror movie:

ugly, but it seems not fatal: you can brew it, cover it up. It began with a reddish stripe.

But the same thing, only from the inside:

Is there something to cook? And even more globally: does it make sense to cook? 10-15 years, as promised below, does not go away. It's good if a year and a half.
But rather, in half a year, it will again climb out of the paint.

well elsi honestly 🙂 then it ALREADY lasts for two years :) after a scratch on this place in an accident

but they could not fix it twice already

So I think - to open - to pickle to paint - to fill with varnish?

when the paint was opened, the outside of rye was also not noticed

now everything is in paint, but what exactly?
I understand that there is nothing good - but I have no idea how to deal with it 🙂

although you can spit for a couple of years, and then we'll see 🙂

do you call it “already”? 🙂 I have five or six years.
from the yellowing of the paint, I really thought that it was something horrible outside. until falling apart in half.

Like this:

And like this:

there are such rip-off owners. 🙁 So to speak: let me introduce myself. 🙁

so what to do? You never know what you can do till you try. 🙂 Some kind of imeezzo experience. 🙂

I'll be alive - I want to put it in order by summer.

Duc. The album is called uzhos. there are still no photos of the trunk and the floor under the rear seat, but even without this, the scale of the destruction is understandable.

It all started with yellowing of the paintwork, turning into swelling, and then once, and you could easily pierce through with your finger.

Now the barn has almost been brought to mind, the picture is approximately the same: I dug a little harder - if you please take a grinder, a chisel and welding in your hands. It seems that he has already done everything, but the hell is there: he stripped the Shumka on the floor under the front seats and two pockets of rye. One is above the floor amplifier, the second is to the right of the gas pedal a piece of floor and a piece of a tunnel, exactly above the dough where at 406 the exhaust pipe converges from two to one.

My mother and I were looking at these pictures right now. Of course, there is nothing of the kind on Samovarovna, although the car will be 40 in 3 years.
Paint bloated on the outer corner of one door. If you take the awl and beat it off well from the shoulder, a hole will break through. True, not the first time, maybe from the third or fifth. There is layer rust smeared with paint in several layers. Behind me is the back door, from below, the cancer is visible. And not painted in color by Sadolin.
Everything is good around. Thinking to just cut a square around the rot and cook to a healthy gland.

I'm not going to. I am a programmer. But under my guidance and supervision, Edik will most likely do it at the service station. Will open and pick. Each specialist in his field. But last year, for example, I was not able to get the bodybuilders to do it.
- Uh, well! No, we change the whole door, look for a door, bring it, we will do it.

Not because they do not know how or it is impossible. It's just that it is less profitable for the service station and will cost less, and it makes sense to rip off as much money as possible from the client, otherwise the foreman won't pat the head, fiddled all day, and the income is small.
This year or after NG I will go to finish off the brigadier again and make him do as I want, and not as it suits them.

In this case, I think like a stingy Admin 😀> It depends on what you pay for.

The sum of all work, including consumables and spare parts, is important to me, the cheaper, the better the result - so that it is very beautiful and invisible from a distance of 10 cm and more. Satisfied with consumer qualities.

Who and how and how many of the body shop masters sweated and swore more obscenely or less multi-tiered while completing a task - to me as a client - purple.
Super-Quality is also not in the first place, because with annual car runs of 10,000 km. or less in good weather in general, and careful storage in a dry garage under nightly supervision - not very high-quality work will "crawl out" and "bloom" for years.
A well-placed patch will be fine for me.

Removal, installation and adjustment of the door

Installing and removing the front and rear doors is the same.

1. Remove the bolt (1) from each hinge using a 10 mm socket. Refer to the accompanying illustration.
2. Press the stop (2) off the shaft (3) with a screwdriver on the side.
3. Drive the door brake axle (3) upwards with a mandrel.

4. Remove the door from its hinges and place it on the stand. The height of the stand should be such as to eliminate tension on the electrical wires.

Do not damage the paintwork on the door and front wall. To protect the surfaces, they can be sealed with tape.

5. Disconnect the connector holder (arrows in the accompanying illustration). Disconnect the plug connection.

6. Raise the block. In this way, the plug connection is undocked.

1. Connect the plug connection and secure. Insert the joint into the door pillar. Secure the holder.

2. Place the door on the top and bottom hinges. This requires an assistant. The door is guided by the axis (3). The washers (5) can be used to adjust the height of the door. When installing an old door, adjustment is usually not required.
3. Install a bolt (1) into each hinge.
1 - bolt
2 - upper body loop
3 - loop axis
4 - upper door hinge
5 - washer
6 - lock washer

4. Using a hammer, insert the door brake axle and lock it.
5. Close the door and check the evenness of the gap between the door and the body. If the gap is uneven, loosen the hinge bolts and adjust the door height with the upper bolts.

When installing a new door, spacer washers are installed under the hinge, allowing the door to move out and in.

The door should be leveled (fitted) only with attachments such as a window regulator, glass, etc., since the door displacement performance depends on the weight. When fitting, remove the door seals. If the front and rear doors were removed, align the rear door first, then the front door.

6. Loosen bolt -1- of the locking pin on the B post using a TORX wrench, and loosen bolt -2- so that the locking wedge can be moved. Do not change the position of the locking wedge -3- in depth.

7. Lift and hold the door handle. Close the door, thereby adjusting the height and inclination of the locking wedge.

A feeler gauge is used to guide the locking wedge in the workshop.

8. Carefully open the door and tighten the bolts to 30 Nm.

The displacement of the front edge of the door inward and the rear edge outward is allowed no more than 1 mm. A worn shut-off element must be replaced.

Using a screwdriver and a “10” wrench, unscrew one screw of the upper fastening and two bolts of the lower fastening of the guide rail ...

We take out the sealing grooves of the lowering glass.

We turn off the self-tapping screw for fastening the outer seal ...

We also remove the details of the external ...

... and the inner glass rim.

Remove the cotter pin from the front door stopper retaining pin.

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry on the lining of the door stop stopper and remove it.

Using the “10” head, unscrew the two bolts securing the door stopper cover.

We remove the stopper lever from the stopper cover and take out both parts from the door.

Turn off the top three with the “17” head ...

… And the three lower bolts for securing the door to the hinges and remove it.

ATTENTION! Be careful, an overly open door can crush against a fender edge or a pillar!

The gasket is attached to the door along its frame with glue, and in other places it is tucked in behind the flange.

We assemble the door in the reverse order.
The easiest way to adjust the position of the door looks like this: loosen the six bolts securing the door to the hinges. We close the door and expose the gaps. We fix the door in this position by placing an emphasis between it and the threshold. We tighten in this position one bolt on each hinge. Then, having opened the door, we finally tighten all the bolts. If you cannot adjust the position of the door after repeated attempts, it is better to contact an experienced technician for service.

FRONT DOOR. REAR DOOR.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

2.9. Remove the adhesive tape from the assembly hatches.
2.10. Disconnect the clamp of the adjusting unit 1 (Fig. 2) of the rod of the internal drive of the lock.
2.11. Unscrew and remove two screws 18 with washers 17 securing the internal drive 16 of the lock and remove the drive with a rod and gasket 15 (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.12. From the end of the door through the mounting hole, unscrew and remove the screw 6 securing the holder 5 of the switch 7 of the lock and. supporting the holder with your hand, remove the switch and holder (screwdriver type 7810-1037 GOST 17199-88).
2.13. If the pusher lock is installed, remove the lock through the mounting hole (pliers, type 7814-0258 GOST 5547-86).

1 - adjusting unit; 2 - screw; 3 - washer; 4 - lock; 5 - holder; 6 - screw; 7 - switch; 8 - screw; 9 - washer; 10 - bolt; 11 - washer; 12 - outer handle; 13 - gasket; 14 - bracket; 15 - gasket; 16 - internal drive of the lock; 17 - washer; 18 - screw.

2.14. Unscrew and remove two bolts 10 with washers 11 for fastening the outer handle 12, remove the handle, bracket 14 and gasket 13 (head 10, a knob and an extension from a set of keys type 2336M-1 TU-200-RSFSR-1 / 9-64-88) ...
2.15. Unscrew and remove the four screws 2.8 with washers 3.9 for fastening the lock 4, remove the lock with rods (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.16. Lower the sliding glass (if the glass is broken, lower the glass holder).
2.17. Through the mounting hatches, unscrew and remove two screws 21 (Fig. 3) with washers 20 securing the upper link 12. remove the link (screwdriver as per item 2.1).
2.18. Unscrew and remove two bolts with fastening washers, disconnect the lowering glass holder from the 11 guide stones holder (tool according to clause 2.14).
2.19. Pull the sliding glass with a clip up into the opening of the door window with a slight distortion of the glass.
2.20. Unscrew and remove two bolts 26 with washers 24.25 and a screw 19 with a washer 18 fastening the guide 9 with brackets, remove the guide (tool according to items 2.1 and 2.14).

1 - upper groove; 2 - outer front edging; 3 - inner front edging; 4- outer bottom edging; 5 - front groove; 6 - window regulator; 7 - cladding fastening plate; 8 - plate fastening plate; 9 - guide with brackets; 10 - lower link; II - holder with stones; 12 - upper link; 13 - inner rear edging; 14 - outer rear edging; 15 - lowering glass; 16 - lateral groove; 17 - angular coupling; 18 - washer; 19 - screw; 20 - washer; 21 - screw; 22 - washer; 23 screw; 24 - washer; 25 - washer; 26 - bolt.

2.21. Unscrew and remove two screws 23 with washers 22 securing the lower link 10, remove the link (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.22.Unscrew and remove five screws 23 with washers 22 securing the window regulator 6 and remove the window regulator through the mounting hatch (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.23. Unscrew and remove the two screws securing the lower outer edging 4. remove the edging (screwdriver according to p. 2.1).
2.24. Remove the four edging 2. 3. 13, 14 and three angle sleeves (screwdriver according to item 2.3).
2.25. Remove the guide grooves.
2.25.1. Disengage the springs of the upper groove holder 1 from engaging with the groove ledges using a tool (Fig. 4). inserting it into the groove and. moving along the groove, remove the groove.
2.25.2. Remove the front groove 5 (Fig. 3) and the side groove 16 (L-shaped technological wire hook).

2.26. Unscrew and remove the two screws securing the cladding fastening plate 7, remove the plate (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.27. Unscrew and remove the two screws securing the plate 8 for securing the overlay, remove the plate (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.28. Remove the door opening restrictor lining, unscrew and remove two bolts with washers for fastening the stop, remove the cotter pin, remove the pin, remove the restrictor inward (tool according to clauses 2.3. 2.13. 2.14. Hammer type 7850-0102 GOST 2310-77).
2.29. Unscrew and remove the screw that secures the mirror to the stand support, remove the mirror (screwdriver as per item 2.4).
2.30. Unscrew and remove two bandages with washers for fastening the support, remove the support and the gasket (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.31. If the door has an open door alarm lamp, unscrew and remove the two screws securing the lamp, disconnect the wires and remove the lamp with a seal; if a reflector is installed on the door, remove the reflector (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
2.32. If the door is equipped with an open door signaling lamp, after removing the lamp, loosen the clamps and remove the lamp power wires (screwdriver according to clause 2.3).
2.33. Remove the seal glued around the door perimeter.

1 - rod lever; 2 - intermediate linkage arm; 3 - lock; 4 - outer handle 5 - adjusting unit; 6 - internal drive.

4.3. Unscrew and remove the two screws securing the intermediate rod 2 of the rods, disconnect the intermediate rod from the lock 3, remove the rod lever together with the intermediate rods (screwdriver according to clause 2.1).
4.4. Repeat the operations on pp. 2.13-2.15.
4.5. Lower the sliding glass (if the glass is broken, lower the glass holder).
4.6. Unscrew and remove bolt 29 (Fig. 6) with washers 27,28 and screw 22 with washer 21 for fastening the rack 14, remove the rack (tool according to items 2.1 and 2.14).

1 - corner muata; 2 - inner rear edging; 3 - inner front edging; 4 - outer front edging; 5 - outer lower edging; 6 - clip; 7 - upper link; 8 - cladding fastening plate; 9 - window regulator; 10 - lateral groove; 11 - plate fastening plate; 12 - stop of the lowering glass; 13 - lower link; 14 - rack; 15 - sealant; 16 - clutch; 17 - fixed glass; 18 - outer rear edging; 19 - front seal; 20 - upper groove; 21 - washer; 22 - screw; 23 - washer; 24 - screw; 25 - screw; 26 - washer; 27 - washer; 28 - washer; 29 - bolt.

Video (click to play).

4.7. Remove fixed glass with seal.
4.8. Repeat the operations on pp. 2.17, 2.19, 2.21-2.23. 2.25-2.27.
4.9. Remove four edging 2, 3. 4, 18 and four couplings (screwdriver according to item 2.1).
4.10. Repeat the operations on pp. 2.29-2.33.

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