Let us examine in detail such a problem in VAZ 2115 2114 2113 cars, like a jammed door lock when the door cannot be opened, both from the inside and outside. We will carry out minor repairs, adjust and adjust the lock, show its internal mechanism. We remove the door card. Let's take a closer look at the mechanism of the lock, in the video you can see how it functions, it was possible to remove it using the phone:
At the point of contact of the levers, a working out (dent) is visible. The lever is not fully pressed, so the door of the lock does not open. Let's shorten the rod by bending it with the pliers, now the door lock will have to open. Now let's move on to adjusting the lock so that the door can be easily opened from the outside. To make the lever push harder, unscrew the adjusting “nut” down:
After our work, the door lock began to open well both from the outside and from the inside. Such repairs will not take much time and will save you from unnecessary expenses.
3) Now let's talk about how to remove the larva from the outer handle, it is inserted into the handle itself and in order to remove it, you will first have to remove the handle from the door, and then remove the larva, this is done as follows, from the outer handle in the inner part both rods are disconnected (see photo 1) and after the rods are disconnected, unscrew the two nuts that attach the handle to the door (see photo 2) and pulling the handle by hand, remove it completely from the car, after the handle is removed (It By the way, it will be removed with the rods), take the awl in your hands and use it to push out the side pin that holds the larva and the larva's leash (see.Photo 3, the leash is indicated by a red arrow, when the pin of its attachment is pushed out, remove the leash completely from the larva), then pry the spring that secures the same larva with a screwdriver and remove it (see photo 4), and in the end, when the leash and the spring are removed , insert the key into the larva and turn it, thereby you will unlock the mechanism and you can easily pull the key and remove the larva from the outer handle.
By the way, they completely forgot to mention in the article, in some cases, it also happens that the door does not close when you press the door lock button on the alarm, there may be several reasons for this, but one of the most important reasons is the failure of the door motor-reducer (This motor-reducer on each door is installed and thanks to it the doors close without the help of hands), it is completely replaced and as such cannot be repaired (But nevertheless, some people divide it into two parts by sex and replace defective parts, and everything is assembled back with the help of adhesive tape and glue , but it's dreary, it's easier to put a new one right away, and it's not very expensive, and the main thing is not to take Chinese ones, they just don't even fit), to replace, unscrew the two screws that secure it (see photo 1) and then remove the motor-reducer from the door and disconnect the traction from it (see photo 2), then disconnect the two pads of wires and two connectors between each other (you will immediately see them, without disconnecting them, the motor-reducer cannot be removed from car), and then remove the moto-reducer from the car door! (By the way, take into account the fact that you may have to disconnect the traction from the motor-reducer or completely remove it, when such things as locks will be removed, for example)!
VIDEO
Removing the casing and subsequent disassembly must be done with extreme care. It is important to remember (or better write down) the sequence of operations, the correspondence of the unscrewed bolts and screws to their holes. For convenience, you can lay out parts on a large surface in the order of disassembly. The door closing mechanism and the window regulator do not have to be removed - they will not interfere with the work, and it is rather difficult to put them back.
How to replace all door locks, rods and cylinder?
3) Now let's talk about how to remove the larva from the outer handle, it is inserted into the handle itself and in order to remove it, you will first have to remove the handle from the door, and then remove the larva, this is done as follows, from the outer handle in the inner part both rods are disconnected (see photo 1) and after the rods are disconnected, unscrew the two nuts that attach the handle to the door (see photo 2) and pulling the handle by hand, remove it completely from the car, after the handle is removed (It By the way, it will be removed with the rods), take the awl in your hands and use it to push out the side pin that holds the larva and the larva's leash (see.Photo 3, the leash is indicated by a red arrow, when the pin of its attachment is pushed out, remove the leash completely from the larva), then pry the spring that secures the same larva with a screwdriver and remove it (see photo 4), and in the end, when the leash and the spring are removed , insert the key into the larva and turn it, thereby you will unlock the mechanism and you can easily pull the key and remove the larva from the outer handle.
All the parts are installed in their places in the reverse order of removal, but do not forget with the help of an impact rotary screwdriver to tighten the fastening screws of the locks to the stop, but take into account the fact that with this screwdriver the screws only need to be loosened and tightened until they stop, so just use it like a regular screwdriver (Unscrew the screw completely, tighten) we do not advise you, because it is not intended for this purpose.
Instruction: replacing the starter relay.
Generator bearing number, material is available here.
Tools: we need a set of screwdrivers to replace the front door trim
Removing and replacing the front door trim:
We will start removing the door trim by unscrewing the door podium, for this, unscrew the three bolts under the podium using a Phillips screwdriver
Carefully remove the door podium. Please note that the podium must be removed slowly without damaging the power window wires.
Disconnect the speakers with wires from the power windows.
After that, we proceed to removing the door handle of the VAZ 2115, for this pry the handle cover using a flat screwdriver.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the handle mounting bolts and remove it
Next, we disconnect the lining of the door opening mechanism, for this we carefully pry it with a screwdriver and remove
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the plastic door locking button
Next, we move on to removing the front door speaker. To do this, unscrew the four speaker mounting bolts.
After that, carefully remove the speaker from the door trim body and disconnect the wires.
We remove the plastic control lever for the front side mirror of the VAZ 2115, as well as remove the decorative molding
We proceed to removing the skin itself. The front door trim is supported by plastic caps that are inserted directly into the door metal. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry the trim on each side and gently remove.
When installing a new door trim, we recommend that you use new plastic clips.
When the door in the car does not open with the help of the outside handle, the first thing that comes under suspicion is the flown off rods of the lock. This is the most common reason the handle might not open the lock. However, these Lada models have their own and very tricky malfunction - a crack inside the handle.
You can only see this crack by removing the handle. That is, disassembling the door and thoroughly examining everything and everything will not help here. In appearance, the handle looks completely intact, the rods are in place, but the door does not open. So you need to remove the handle.
The handle on the Ladas of the Samara family is fastened with two nuts and can be removed quite easily. The only difficulty may be the difficult access to the distant nut, but a key with a cap head can help here. Of course, you will need to disconnect the rod connecting the handle and the lock with a screwdriver.
When the handle is removed, you need to inspect it from the inside. There, inside the handle, there is a metal tongue that transfers the movement from the lever (which is pressed with your fingers when opening the door) to the rod going to the lock. Very often, this tongue cracks and bends slightly when pressed against the lever.
The trick of the situation is that the pull to the lock moves, but not enough. Therefore, to determine this malfunction and find why the door does not open, you can only visually identify the crack. As a rule, such a handle cannot be repaired, so it is worth changing it.
A crack in the handle tongue is caused by the weakness of the metal from which the tongue is made. The maximum that can be done in such a situation is to handle the handle with care, namely, not to apply a lot of effort to the lever. So that it does not "resist" the pressure, but moves easily, it is necessary to correctly adjust the traction from the handle to the lock, monitor the cleanliness of the lock mechanism and lubricate the entire structure in time.
Interior view of the front door:
1 - button to turn off the lock; 2 - door upholstery; 3 - armrest handle; 4 - inner door handle; 5 - outside rear-view mirror; 6 - door fastening bolts; 7 - door opening limiter; 8 - power window switch; 9 - door upholstery pocket; 10 - reflector; 11 - outer door lock
To remove the front door, unscrew the screws securing the eye of the limiter 7 to the front pillar of the body and the bolts 6 for fastening the hinges and remove the door. In this case, the assistant must support the door.
Install the door in reverse order. Adjust door-to-body clearances before final tightening the bolts.
The door can be adjusted from two sides:
First: we adjust the pressure of the door on the hinges of its fastening! (we loosen two bolts on the hinges and adjust in any direction);
Secondly: adjusting the lock, or rather that part of it, which is screwed with three bolts to the body (it is also regulated in all directions);
The most important thing: if you did everything right, and the top of the door is still not very tightly pressed against the seal, then we do the following (we do the following very carefully.open the door, lower the glass all the way, sit in the salon, rest against the door with our knee, grab the top of the door with both hands and gently, NOT JURKLY, pull on ourselves, only very carefully!) Now we lift the glass, close the door, and we do not cease to be surprised at how tightly it began to adhere to the seal. AND THIS IS WITHOUT FINANCIAL INVESTMENTS! Everything is easy and simple! I tried it myself on my 15ke, otherwise there were terrible cracks on two doors from the factory, water just poured into the salon in a stream! He healed everything in 20 minutes.
To remove the front door speaker:
- disconnect the ground wire from the storage battery;
- Remove the front door trim;
- unscrew the screws 1 (Fig. 9.57) fastening and remove the speaker;
- disconnect the electrical connectors from the speaker.
Install in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following:
- connect the ground wire to the storage battery;
Igor: I have no fitting, electronic throttle, how to be
Denis: Hello everyone. Why should the wires cling to the ventilator?
Vova: I did everything as in the picture, only I did not install a new cigarette lighter. ]
Mukhtar: Salamaleikum guys I all have such a problem arrows on the panel and name [. ]
Vitaly: Hello, I have a vaz 2115. Recently I ran into such a problem when [. ]
Door locks are non-separable and cannot be repaired. If the locks are broken, replace them as an assembly. The designs of the front door locks of all LADA SAMARA-2 family cars and the rear door locks of the VAZ-2114 and VAZ-2115 vehicles are fundamentally the same. The main difference is that the lock switch cylinders are installed in the outer handles of the front doors, so the repair of locks is shown using the example of the front doors.
2. Remove the two screws securing the lock interlock gearmotor to the inner door panel.
3. Remove the gearmotor from the window of the inner panel of the door and remove the rod from the gearmotor drive.
4. Disconnect the two wire harness blocks and remove the door lock gearmotor.
5. To remove the inner handle and the lock drive rod, unscrew the nuts securing the power window mechanism to the door panel and take it to the side (see "Replacing the front door power window").
6. Remove the inner handle of the lock (see "Replacing the front door window regulator").
7. Disconnect the outside handle rods and the lock switch from the inner lock.
8. Remove the two screws securing the door lock.When unscrewing, we recommend using an impact screwdriver, as the thread of the screws is covered with sealant.
10.… and remove the inner lock from the door.
11. Remove the retaining clip from the lever pin and disconnect the inner handle link from the inner lock lever.
12. Rotate the plastic holder and remove the end of the lock interlock rod from the lever.
13. Remove the two nuts securing the outside handle of the lock.
14. Remove the outer handle of the drawbar lock.
15. Remove the pin and remove the plastic rod end from the lock cylinder.
16. Remove the retaining spring by pulling its ends out of the slots on the cylinder and the lock handle.
17. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and remove the cylinder from the handle.
18. Install the new lock in the reverse order of removal, having previously lubricated all rubbing parts with grease. Check the ease of opening and tightness of the door lock. Adjust the lock if necessary.
19. To adjust the lock, loosen the fastening screws and move the lock: a) outside, if the door is tightly closed; b) inside, if the door does not close tightly; c) down, if the door rises when closing. Tighten the screws after adjustment. Use an impact screwdriver to loosen and tighten the screws.
Hello everyone, it's no secret that there was a problem with the doors on Ksenia and most likely there will always be, and I also ran into this problem. My car is already 12 years old, the doors began to rot for about 4-5 years, but everything was bearable for the time being until the time, cleaned, tinted, and so every year. But a year ago, through holes began to appear, then pieces of metal just started to fall off in the corners of the doors, initially I wanted to cut off the bottom of the door and just weld on new iron, but broke off with the welding one and had to go the other way, in this thread I will show and tell you what and how I did. By the way, about buying a new or used door for some reason it turned out to be problematic, nowhere, and the price of a new door will be somewhere in the region of 5-6 thousand rubles. and I spent about 700-800 rubles for 2 doors and one day of work. And so let's start. P.S. I apologize for the quality of the photo, I photographed it on the phone.
1. we clean up the places of rust (I used a grinder) in some places even just cut off the metal.
2.because it rotted down, then the outer sheet of the door just came off from the door itself (from the bottom) it was necessary to connect these two halves, for this I used car plasticine (as a sealant, I covered the joint from the inside, removing the trim), I also I smeared metal plates (you can use steel wire) to make the bottom edge of the door, which I simply inserted between the “halves” so that they would not fall out during operation, it looks like this:
3. Then on this whole story we put putty with fiberglass
4. To clean up (since this putty is not very malleable to processing, I again used a grinder)
5. Then we apply the putty, but already the finishing
6. We clean it with sandpaper 7. Paint. I did not paint with paint, but decided not to bother and just bought a can of anti-gravel and painted everything below the molding with it, it turned out pretty nice.
The last two pictures were taken after the rain, and visually it seems that there are jambs, but in fact the door turned out to be perfectly flat and with normal gaps.
1. Putty with fiberglass about 240 rubles. (I still have more half-a-line) 2. The finishing putty is also somewhere around 240 rubles (more than half is also left) 3. A set of rubber spatulas 40 rubles. 4. Antigravel about 250 rubles (all gone) 5. Optionally, the rust converter is about 300 rubles. 6. Sandpaper (freebie); D
If I help someone, I will be glad, write if anyone does not understand anything.
How can you open the door of a VAZ-2115 car without a key - this is the question the owners of this car ask themselves first of all, finding themselves in front of the locked doors of their iron horse. There can be a lot of reasons due to which this trouble arises.For example, the banal actuation of the alarm key fob, which is responsible for closing the central lock and left with the keys in the passenger compartment, while the driver went outside. There is an even easier way to find yourself in front of the closed doors of your car. This situation is typical for vehicle owners that are not equipped with an alarm. The owner clicks the lock with his hand, then slams the door, while the keys are locked inside.
So let's take a look at how you can solve such a problem. Most likely, many have never had a chance to open their car without a key. Accordingly, the situation that has arisen will cause certain difficulties for the majority of car owners inside the car. The simplest solution to the problem is to call someone close to you with a request to bring a spare set of keys. However, this may well not be, or the trouble happened, for example, in another city.
You can try to get into the salon using certain simple manipulations. However, one point should be noted immediately.
Everything looks very simple if you look at the situation from the outside, for example, in the movies, watching burglars deal with a locked car in just a second. In real life, you will need a certain knack and patience, especially if you have never done this before.
You can open the doors of the VAZ-2115 using:
lace or strong fishing line with a loop;
metal wire with a hook at the end.
In the first case, the main thing is to get to the latch, which is responsible for locking and unlocking the lock. For example, you are lucky if you left the side window slightly open when leaving. In this case, it is enough to arm yourself with a lace - even one stretched out of shoes will do, having built a loop at its end. We push it into the existing slot, catch the retainer and pull it up.
Everything should be done very carefully, without haste, without unnecessary movements. If the glass is closed, you can try to move it down with a trivial physical effort. Place both palms on and try your best to lower it. After all, in order to get to the latch with a lace, you need a gap of only a few millimeters. With a loosened window regulator mechanism, this method is quite suitable.
In order to bring the next option to life, you will need certain available tools - a metal wire. Next, remove the lower rubber band of the seal from the side glass. This is not very difficult to do. By the way, you can not be afraid to damage the seal. It is not expensive at all, but it changes very quickly. Next, we take the previously prepared wire - its length should be at least 30 centimeters - and at the end we make a hook, bending it at an acute angle. By the way, an ordinary electrode is perfect in size.
After the tool is ready, and the "field of activity" is open, you can proceed directly to the "rescue operation". In order to open the door, you should push the wire through the gap between the door and the glass. The purpose here is to pull the door opening mechanism - it just needs to be hooked. It is located approximately opposite the door handle, respectively, you should look in this area.
With proper skill, even without any preliminary experience, it is possible to successfully complete this procedure, as a rule, rather quickly. By the way, trained people, including burglars, know how to open a car in this way in just a few seconds. It is enough to pry the traction up a very short distance - a few millimeters are enough to get the longed-for access to the interior.
Finally, the most radical option for opening a door without a key is to break the side glass, then pull the catch up. You need to start implementing it only if there are simply no other options to be inside the car. Also, do not forget to make sure that the keys did indeed remain in the cabin.Otherwise, you then have to solve another, no less serious problem - starting the engine. Also, keep in mind that glass replacement is not such a cheap pleasure today. So think it over again. In the "tag" an economy replacement option will be a small glass located between the C-pillar and the door. If your hand is not very thick, then it will be quite possible to reach the release button.
Breaking glass, you do not need to be like the heroes of films, and do it with your elbow or in general with your fist. Take, for example, a hammer or, as a last resort, a stone. And finally, I would like to give very important advice. Before you start implementing the methods described above in practice, make sure you have the documents for the car with you. Passers-by, seeing such manipulations, may well call the police, after which they will have to prove to law enforcement officers their ownership.
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VIDEO
Door locks in the design of a car are of great importance. When closed, they act as a car security system. During operation, they keep the doors from spontaneous opening, which can lead to a collision of the opened door with passing vehicles or a car overtaking, and in the worst situation, to the passenger falling out of the passenger compartment.
In modern cars, various additional devices are being developed that expand the range of action of the locking mechanisms. Such as, the central locking, which allows you to simultaneously open and close all locking devices when you turn the key in the driver's lock cylinder, and close all the doors by pressing a button inside the passenger compartment. Or the so-called "anti-child" locks, when a child cannot open the car from the inside. On the Russian market, such novelties include silent door locks for the Samara and Samara 2 families, to which the VAZ 2114 belongs.
In the standard configuration, the basic VAZ 2114 models are produced with conventional locking devices, factory-marked 2108-6105012 / 13 for the front doors.
When they talk about a VAZ door lock as a single whole, they make a serious mistake. In fact, it consists of several structurally independent parts, each of which has its own functional purpose:
Internal door lock VAZ 2114. This is the main control mechanism.
- A larva is inserted into it, which is an element of the locking device, which has individual characteristics corresponding to the unlocking key of the car owner.
- It is controlled by pressing a button on the car door, locking or opening the lock through a mechanical pull.
- Mechanical opening rods are attached to it with an internal or external handle, and it is also possible to turn on the central lock with a gear motor when installing the alarm.
- He operates the external locking device with a special finger.
External door lock VAZ 2114. According to catalogs, it passes as a door lock striker. In fact, it is an actuator for the door locking mechanism, which closes or opens the latch on a mechanical signal.
Latch of the VAZ 2114 lock. It is attached to the car body and holds the latch of the external locking device when it is in the closed state.
A similar design of the locking mechanism and the metal parts from which all its main parts are made lead to the fact that a fairly loud metal clang is heard during the closing of the doors. The main noise is created by the bow, which at the moment of closing penetrates the loop.Until recently, the owners of domestic cars could only look with envy at the owners of foreign cars closing their cars with a quiet rustle, and constantly adjust the doors to get closer to the ideal.
Now on sale there are domestic silent locks on the VAZ 2114. The principle of their operation is quite simple. The metal latch and the latch pin are covered with a special noise-insulating coating. Usually it is plastic or rubber. The plastic coating is more wear-resistant and therefore more durable. Rubber provides better sound insulation, but wears out faster. In addition, parts of the locking device are treated with a special silicone grease, which does not freeze in the cold, retains its elasticity and soundproofing properties.
In general, when they talk about silent locks, they mean the external locking mechanism and the latch pin. Because only the latch of the outer lock and the same retainer pin are covered with a noise-insulating layer of plastic or rubber. The price of silent locks in this design is small - from 230 rubles per piece and rarely exceeds 1400 rubles for a complete set.
Stores often offer a simplified version of the silent shutter. As a softening device, only a plastic-coated retainer pin is offered. This, of course, is cheaper, but does not completely solve the problem.
Installing silent locks VAZ 2114 is quite simple. This requires:
prepare a set of refined locks with retainer fingers, a hammer and an impact screwdriver;
open and fix the desired door;
unscrew the two bolts holding the outer lock. To do this, place an impact screwdriver on the upper bolt and apply two light blows. If the bolt does not loosen, repeat the procedure.
Attention! It is impossible to unscrew both fastening bolts at the same time, because the inner door lock may fall and then you will have to open the door, and this will significantly complicate the entire installation process.
Loosen the upper bolt slightly and similarly, using an impact screwdriver and a hammer, unscrew the lower bolt completely. Turn the body of the external lock on the loosened upper mount and screw the bolt into the vacated lower hole. The inner lock is secured and the top bolt can be removed;
remove the case of the external locking device and replace it with a silent lock, alternately screwing in the fasteners;
unscrew the bare pin of the retainer, replacing it with a silent one.
It takes 20 minutes of working time to replace four locks.
The easiest way to make a silent lock yourself is to come up with a special cover for the latch finger on the machine body, which is a loop for the lock latch, because the most noise occurs when the latch goes behind the hinge. To do this, you need half a meter of a heat shrink tube, which can be bought at a radio parts store.
Unscrew the pins from those retainers that need to be upgraded.
Cut the tube to the required size so that the thread for tightening remains free.
Put the pipe on your finger and heat it with a hair dryer or lighter.
Allow the tube to cool down and settle on your finger, then put another tube on the already installed one, repeating the heating procedure.
After the tube has settled, trim off the uneven ends.
Install the improved pin into the retainer.
The silent loop is ready. After the homemade finger is installed, there may be some problem with closing the door, all the same, the tubes are of abnormal thickness. Then the question arises - how to adjust the locks. This is also a fairly simple procedure that does not require special skills:
the fastening on the lock of the lock, which is attached to the body, is slightly loosened;
the latch slides in the direction in which it is necessary for easy closing of the door. If the door sags when it is closed, the catch is lifted. If, on the contrary, the door rests and rises, you must slightly lower the latch. In the same way, its position can be adjusted by sliding the catch forward or backward.
VIDEO Silent locks are a useful thing that saves the nerves of car owners and increases the resource of door fasteners. However, in order for them to work well and for a long time, they need to be looked after and constantly monitored for the correct door adjustments.
Rice. 8.14. Front door window regulator: 1 - window regulator handle; 2 - facing; 3 - socket; 4 - gasket; 5 - window regulator mechanism; 6 - cable sheath; 7 - roller; 8 - glass; 9 - sealant; 10 - outer sealant; 11 - inner seal; 12 - clip; 13 - lowering glass mounting plate; 14 - rope
Unplug the socket 3 and slide the lining 2 of the handle 1 (Fig. 8.14) of the power window until it is completely out. Remove the handle and trim.
Rice. 8.13. Interior view of the front door: 1 - button off the lock; 2 - door upholstery; 3 - armrest handle; 4 - inner door handle; 5 - outside rear-view mirror; 6 - door fastening bolts; 7 - door opening limiter; 8 - power window switch; 9 - door upholstery pocket; 10 - reflector; 11 - outer door lock
After unscrewing the screws, remove the armrest handle 3 (see Fig. 8.13) and the door trim pocket. Using a screwdriver, remove the trim of the inner door handle 4. Unscrew the lock release button 1.
Remove the handle for adjusting the outer rear-view mirror 5, the inner lining and, after unscrewing the fastening screws, remove the mirror.
Overcoming the resistance of the spring plastic holders, remove the 2 door trim. Remove the sliding glass seals from the door. Remove the protective plates through the holes in the inner door panel.
Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the lowering glass guiding grooves down, then disconnect the holder 12 (Fig. 8.14) of the glass from plate 13, unscrew the nuts securing the window regulator, remove it and take out the lowering glass through the top.
Rice. 8.15. Electric window lifter: 1 - roller; 2 - cable sheath; 3 - window regulator support; 4 - window regulator mechanism; 5 - gear motor; 6 - lowering glass mounting plate; 7 - gear motor mounting bracket; 8 - rope
Some cars are equipped with electric windows (Fig. 8.15).
The glass is lifted by transferring torque from the gear motor 5 to the window lifter mechanism 4 and then by vertical movement of the cable 8 with the sliding glass mounting plate 6 fixed to it.
Before disassembling the door and the subsequent removal of the window regulator, it is necessary to disconnect the switch 8 (see Fig. 8.13) from the connector of the gear motor 5 (Fig. 8.15). Remove the window regulator, unscrew the supports 3 and disconnect the gearmotor.
Rice. 8.16. Front right door lock: 1 - key leash; 2 - leash of the lock switch; 3 - shutdown thrust; 4 - thrust of the external drive; 5 - key; 6 - button to turn off the lock; 7 - pull of the shutdown button; 8 and 17 - shutdown levers; 9 - outer door handle; 10 - bracket for the inner handle; 11 - inner door handle; 12 - lining of the inner handle; 13 - thrust of the internal drive; 14 - the body of the internal lock; 15 - external drive lever; 16 - intermediate lever; 18 - outer lock body; 19 - lock drive pin; 20 - dog; 21 - lock retainer; 22 - ratchet; 23 - lock fastening screw
Disconnect from the drawbar lock 4 (Fig. 8.16), 7 and 13, outer 9 and inner 11 door handles. Unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove the outside door handle.
Rice. 8.17. Fastening of locks and handles of the front door: 1 - inner door handle; 2 - front door; 3 - thrust of the internal drive; 4 - button; 5 - outer door handle; 6 - handle key; 7 - lock larva; 8 - handle seal; 9 - button pull; 10 - thrust of the external drive; 11 - leash of the lock switch; 12 - pull of the leash of the lock switch; 13 - pin of the lock retainer; 14 - housing of the lock retainer; 15 - external lock; 16 - internal lock; 17 - traction of the gear motor; 18 - gear motor for locking the door lock
If the car is equipped with electric door locks (Fig. 8.17), after removing the door trim, disconnect the gearmotor connector 18 and pull rod 17.
Unscrew the screws and remove the lock 8 (see Fig. 8.16). Take out the inner door handle assembly with bracket 10, having previously unscrewed the fastening screws.
If necessary, unscrew the fastening screws and remove the door opening limiter.
Reassemble the door in the reverse order. For reliable fastening, lubricate the threads of the lock and retainer screws with UG-9 sealant. Before installing the door trim, check the condition of the holders.
Rice. 8.18. Fastening of locks and handles of the rear door: 1 - lever; 2 - button pull; 3 - button; 4 - thrust of the lock drive; 5 - thrust of the internal drive; 6 - door panel; 7 - handle key; 8 - door handle body; 9 - key leash; 10 - handle seal; 11 - thrust; 12 - external lock; 13 - pin of the lock retainer; 14 - housing of the lock retainer; 15 - internal lock; 16 - thrust of the gear motor; 17 - gear motor for locking the door lock; 18 - inner door handle
Video (click to play).
Disassembly and assembly of the rear door in the same way as the front (Fig. 8.18).