DIY 21011 engine repair

In detail: DIY 21011 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The overhaul of VAZ 2101 to 2107 engines is the same, there is only a difference in the size of the pistons and the size of the crankshaft. For example, the VAZ 2101 engine and the 21011 engine differ only in pistons, on the 01 engine there are 76mm pistons and on 011 79mm, and the rest is the same.

Also, the 2103 engine has 76mm pistons. and 2106 79mm. and everything else is the same. Also, the difference between the engine 2101 and 2103 is only in the crankshaft, the size of the chain, 2101 and 21011, the chain length is 114 links, and in 2103 and 2106 there are 116 links, and in the length of the distributor stem, and everything else is the same.

Therefore, when repairing an engine, you just need to know the engine model.

I will give a complete instruction on how to overhaul the engine with your own hands, at home.

I will repair the 2106 engine, it jammed because the owner of the six was driving without oil pressure.

Since the engine is removed, without a head, we can say that half of the work is already done, it remains only to disassemble it, at home it is easier to disassemble it on an old tire, first we begin to remove the pallet.

Photo. Engine sump removed.

Pay attention to the photo, 2 and 3 connecting rods are blue and dry, then remove the oil pump, and start unscrewing the connecting rods, but be sure to unscrew the connecting rod, immediately pull it out, put a pillow on it, and bait it, the pillows cannot be changed, each connecting rod has its own pillow ...

Photo. You can see the torn splines in the oil pump drive gear.

As the connecting rod with the piston was removed, it is immediately possible to determine the wear of the piston engine (the piston with the connecting rod is pushed up the engine), looking at this piston, it is clear that gases have escaped through the rings, this is evidenced by carbon deposits on the piston skirt. Also, sliding your finger along the cylinder, a small step is felt at the top dead center, this indicates that there is a development in the cylinder.

Video (click to play).

I measure the piston, it is 79mm. This means that this engine has never been bored, and there is an opportunity for two more bores. I decide to squander the block for the first repair, these are 79.4mm pistons.

He unscrewed the liner from the jammed connecting rod, and here it is necessary to determine whether to change the connecting rod to a new one or you can leave this one. Not everything is so simple here, of course, if you have extra money, you can immediately buy a new connecting rod and adjust it to the weight of the other connecting rods. But I have been working on engines for a long time and have seen all sorts of breakdowns, the most important thing in the connecting rod, so that the liner does not rotate in the connecting rod bed and the piston pin fits very tightly, and the fact that it turns blue from heating is not scary. So the owner of this six was lucky, the liner in the connecting rod did not turn, I leave these connecting rods, which of course affects the price of spare parts.

Photo. Intermediate shaft sprocket.

After removing the connecting rods, unscrew the intermediate shaft sprocket and remove the chain.

Then unscrew the clutch basket, and the flywheel itself, to make it easier to unscrew the flywheel, put a piece of wood or a large key in the crankshaft so that the crankshaft does not rotate when the flywheel is unscrewed.

Then unwind the crankshaft pillows, but be sure to remember which pillow is in which place, the pillows cannot be swapped. Remove the crankshaft, and unscrew the engine mounting ears, they will interfere with the boring of the block. Usually I do not unscrew the pump, if everything is in order with it, then there is no point in taking it off and wasting time.

Photo. Engine block and crankshaft.

Now we need to make a list of spare parts that will need to be purchased for repairing the engine, but it is very important that the pistons are bought before the block is taken to the boring, the borer bores the engine block under the pistons. And the liners for the crankshaft are bought after boring, when it will be known under what size the boring machine was bored. Since the crankshaft was standard, I predict that, most likely, after boring, the liners will be 0.25, but the borer will say for sure.

It is also very important, be sure to ask that the block was bored out under the mirror, and not under the mesh.

When choosing pistons, I usually put "Kharkov" or "AVTRAMAT".

No matter how I argue that the boring of the block under the mirror is better than under the mesh, this will not seem convincing to many.

Therefore, I will try to explain in such a way that they themselves understand the difference.

When a piston with piston rings rubs against the cylinder wall in the form of a mesh, the mesh is a rough grinding with coarse sandpaper. A cylinder with a mesh turns out like a fine file, of course this file immediately starts to grind down the piston rings and the piston. In turn, the piston rings with the piston, grinding off, smooth the mesh in the cylinder, gradually filling the mirror. As a result, the piston with rings fill the mirror in the cylinder, but they themselves are already half worn out, plus a large output in the cylinder itself. Engines made under the grid do not last long, they start to eat oil very quickly.

Although it seems that the mesh retains the oil on itself, thereby prolonging the life of the piston, but not because the oil holds better on the mesh, this does not prevent the sharp edges of the mesh from eating the piston and piston rings.

Although I met people who proudly said that their engine was bored to the grid, but this until the engine has passed more than 20 thousand, and then questions begin, what to do, the engine starts to eat more and more oil.

It is correct not to spoil the cylinder with a mesh, but to modify the piston, how to modify the piston is described in the next article.

4.Intermediate shaft with liners

5.Shaft and gears of the oil pump

6.Gear wheel drive oil pump (fungus) Niva

8.Support half rings (crescents)

10.Piston rings 79.4 (necessarily German)

12.Rod oil seals (for the German crankshaft)

13.Valve oil seals (German)

14.Chain 116 links (for six)

17.Gasket under the valve cover

18. Crankshaft and main bearings?

A list of spare parts specifically for repairing this engine has been compiled, it remains to take the block and crankshaft to the boring, buy spare parts, and then only assemble the engine.

Patient VAZ 21011 1977 The engine traveled 213491km. without cap. renovation

Expenses:
Washing the engine at a car wash - UAH 30.00.
Tipping to the car washer - UAH 10.00.
Gasoline Ai92 (25 liters) - 100.00 UAH.
TOTAL TODAY: UAH 140.00
TOTAL: 140.00 UAH

Day three
Rest (16 July 2006, Sunday)
It’s not supposed to work on Sunday. And so we did.

Day four
Washing and Valuation (Monday 17 July 2006)
It was not possible to capture the engine wash, and there is hardly anything interesting in it. Everything went quite simply - a brush, gasoline and diesel fuel. All parts of the engine were very carefully washed to a shine and neatly laid out on the table. The master carefully examined all the spare parts and took out his notebook, in which he began to add up the prices. At that moment I was not there. I was told by phone that spare parts would cost about 1400 hryvnia + work. Considering that there is a maximum of 1,500 hryvnia in your pocket. After a hard day, I managed to get the necessary 300 hryvnia.
Four days without a car is hell. Become a helpless little man - sit at home and watch the 5th channel, as politicians beat each other's muzzles. Everything becomes sluggish and even not drink beer in the evening (because the nearest store is 2 km away).

Day five
Boring and Spare Parts Purchase (Tuesday 18 July 2006)
The cylinder block was bored by 79.7 (from 79.0) and the crankshaft at 0.5 (from 0.25). It was hard to walk around the market with a master who chooses his fingers for an hour. As for me, they are all the same.

Expenses:
Pistons 79.7 Kharkiv Avtramat - 60.00 UAH.
Piston pins - UAH 18.00
Rings 79.7 Prima - UAH 57.00
Intermediate shaft (piglet) plant - 45.00 UAH.
TOTAL TODAY: 180,00 UAH
TOTAL: 320.00 UAH

Day six
Parts Purchase and Assembly (Wednesday 19 July 2006)
Summer, hot, I want to die, but I have to buy spare parts. The girl has already tortured with messages like “Why are you visiting, what happened”, etc. Channel 5 has already learned it. I only go to work by taxi, my legs hurt and the fat accumulated over the winter gradually begins to subside.I don't want anything but to get into the car. It's all the same for whom.

Expenses:
Cylinder block boring 79.7 - 60.00 UAH
Crankshaft bore 0.5 - 60.00 UAH
Intermediate shaft boring (piglet) - UAH 15.00
Piston rings 79.7 Prima - 60.00 UAH.
Crescent - 7.00 UAH
Basic inserts 0.5 - 20.00 UAH
Connecting rod bushings 0.5 - 20.00 UAH
Front crankshaft oil seal - UAH 5.00
Rear crankshaft oil seal - UAH 10.00
Crankshaft bearing - UAH 10.00
Fungus + bushing - UAH 26.00
Chain - 35.00 UAH
Chain gears - UAH 48.00
Shoe 2101 - UAH 10.00
Head gasket 79 - UAH 8.00
Pallet gaskets, valve covers, pants, manifold - UAH 30.00.
Stove pipe (short) - UAH 5.00
Valve guides - UAH 38.00
Valve - 90.00 UAH
Valve oil seals - UAH 15.00
Crankshaft pulley - UAH 25.00
Collector nuts - UAH 4.00
Oil pump - UAH 80.00
Alternator pulley - UAH 25.00
Camshaft with bed - UAH 200.00
Rocker - UAH 125.00
Block tap (for draining the coolant) - 8.00 UAH.
Gearbox guide bush and oil seal - UAH 22.00.
Oil "MAST" 5l 15w40 - 50.00 UAH.
Oil, air, fuel filters - UAH 21.00
Candles - UAH 20.00
Chain damper - 7.00 UAH
Several clamps - 4.00 UAH.
Sealant - UAH 8.00
Thermostat - UAH 37.00
Breather pipe - 12.00 UAH
Antifreeze 10l "FELIX" - 75.00 UAH.
Pump - UAH 75.00
Gasoline pump - UAH 45.00
Fuel pump pulley - UAH 3.00
TOTAL TODAY: UAH 1418.00
TOTAL: UAH 1738.00

Seventh day
Build (20 July 2006, Thursday)

Day eight
Grinding (Friday 21 July 2006)
The most uninteresting day. The engine was polished all day - they started * it at idle and waited for it to warm up. Only he warmed up - they jammed it and waited for it to cool down. All day. Burned 5L. gasoline and only after grinding the water in the cooling system was changed to antifreeze.

Day nine
Grinding and starting (22 July 2006, Subota)
We burned 5 liters of gasoline again. Upon arrival to the master, I paid for the work and went for a beer. After passing 6 km I returned with the words “where did my rrrrrr disappear and why I can't hear the engine”. It seemed that my gasoline rrrrr had been changed to some kind of quiet electric switch. The car itself wanted to go and go. I thought, and decided to drink beer and spend the night with the master.
In the morning I started up with a half turn and drove off. After driving 107 km. I did not notice any problems to the house. Everything is working. True, I had to smoke a little in the middle of the road. the temperature began to slowly rise to the middle of the letter “D” of the word “WATER” of the native instrument panel. It was clearly said not to overheat, but these are already features of the running-in.

Expenses:
The work of the master - 400.00 UAH.
TOTAL TODAY: UAH 400.00
TOTAL: UAH 2138.00

Guidance and advice
up to 100 km - Warm up the engine. Drive no faster than 60 km / h. Do not load the machine or exceed 2500 rpm. Do everything smoothly. Slowly. Monitor the temperature.
from 100 to 500 km - Warm up the engine. Go no faster than 70 km / h. Do not load the machine or exceed 3500 rpm. Monitor the temperature.
500 km - Change the oil for a cheap mineral water. Change candles to Bosh or Philips. Adjust the valves. When changing the oil, do not use any detergent additives.
from 500 to 2000 km - Warm up the engine. Go no faster than 70-80 km / h. Do not put more than 3 people in the car, including the driver. Do not overload. Do not exceed 3500 rpm. Monitor the temperature.
2000 km - Change the oil to semi-synthetics (Mobil, Elf, * Shell) or mineral water (Ravenol, Elf, Esso).
5000 km - Change the oil to semi-synthetics (Mobil, Elf, * Shell) or mineral water (Ravenol, Elf, Esso). Adjust the valves.

Acknowledgments
Thanks to the guys, our Autoclub, especially saik, nik_2101, OlegSH and to all whom I have already forgotten for a huge number of sensible advice and recommendations. OlegSH I would gladly take advantage of your offer to buy spare parts in Kiev, but the master took it with hostility and said that he would choose the spare parts himself, otherwise he would not do anything. *

Post modified: Creativ4eg, 29 October 2016 - 01:40.

Many motorists remember the legendary "kopeck". This car has become the standard of an entire era. But, no less legendary is the 21011 engine, which replaced the outdated 2101 power unit. This engine model was installed for many more years on other models of Zhiguli cars.

In addition to "Kopeyka", the 21011 engine was also installed on the VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106 models.This ICE has become very common and popular in the classic family of vehicles produced by the Volga Automobile Plant.

The VAZ 21011 engine is characterized by an upper camshaft arrangement. Closed cooling system with forced circulation and auxiliary cooling. A little later, cars with this motor were equipped with an electric fan with a temperature sensor.

A dry clutch and a 4-speed manual gearbox were attached to the power unit. To increase the efficiency of using the power unit, many motorists installed a 5-speed manual transmission from VAZ production.

The VAZ 21011 engine has the following technical characteristics:

The engine was equipped with a DAAZ 2105 Ozone carburetor. This is a two-chamber carburetor, which was used in many Classic cars.

Maintenance of the power unit is quite simple. The oil and oil filter element are changed every 10,000 km. As with all Classic cars on this engine, it is necessary to change the air filter every 20,000 km. Moreover, every second maintenance requires diagnostics of the ignition and the state of the carburetor.

Repair of the main elements is easy. Many people remember how easy it is to change the spark plug, pump or valve cover gasket. At the same time, many motorists even carried out a major overhaul of the power unit at home.

The current trend is that many fans of retro cars are tuning classic VAZ models. The engine is no exception in this case. Most car enthusiasts carry out this process at home. Do-it-yourself engine tuning includes:

Valve replacement.
Installation of a kit-kit for the cooling system.
Replacement and tuning of ignition.
Clutch change.
Other operations.

If the motorist wants global changes, then he will have to ask for help, since the engine will need to bore the cylinder block to 82 mm and fit tuning pistons that are lighter in weight. To increase power even more, it is necessary to install a lightweight crankshaft and camshaft. The final is the installation of the sports clutch, as well as the replacement of the air supply system.

Important! Do not forget that with a global redesign of the power unit, it is necessary to sort out and squander the carburetor. In the 70s of the 20th century, many racers, in order to improve technical performance and increase power, installed two carburetors on engines of the "2101" family.

For more efficient engine operation, it is worth replacing not only the clutch kit, but also the gearbox. It is recommended to install a 5-speed from the VAZ 2107 or later "six" models.

The VAZ 21011 engine had high technical characteristics. Repair and tuning of the power unit is quite simple, since the engine is structurally simple. Maintenance is carried out every 10,000 km of escape. Most motorists do engine tuning on their own at home and with their own hands.

Zhigulenysh

Group: Zhigulists
Posts: 54
Registration: 27.7.2011
From: Saratov
User #: 54581
Machine: 21063 sl
Green color
Release Year: 1988
Thank you said: 0 times

Inveterate Zhigulist

Group: Zhigulists
Posts: 1547
Registration: 10/17/2009
From: item Yarega
User #: 20413
Car: VAZ 21063
Color: dark beige
Release Year: 1989
Thank you said: 50 times

you can knee with a piston stroke of 80 (2103 or Niva balanced) and either shortened connecting rods (127mm) or pistons with an offset pin. without boring will be 1.6. head, mill a little, combine the manifold / cylinder head holes,

and what are the cartridges already? or did you mean cylinders?

Post has been edited N @ w @ – 5.4.2012, 20:55

In order for all the components and assemblies of the VAZ 2101 engine to remain intact, you need to disassemble the engine correctly. In our guide, everything is detailed.

The procedure for disassembling the engine with your own hands

one.Wash the engine in a washer, place it on a disassembly stand and drain the oil from the crankcase.

2. Remove the carburetor by disconnecting the hoses and throttle linkage from the carburetor.

3. Remove the fuel pump, the ignition distributor, use a key 67.7812.9514 to unscrew the candles and the coolant temperature gauge sensor

4. Remove the alternator and coolant pump drive belt, remove the alternator and alternator bracket.

5. Remove the coolant pump by disconnecting the heater fluid supply line from the pump and the exhaust manifold.

6. Remove the coolant outlet pipe and the heater fluid return pipe from the cylinder head.

7. Using the tool A.60312, unscrew and remove the oil filter with a gasket

8. Unscrew the oil pressure warning lamp sensor, remove the crankcase breather cap, crankcase and oil pump. Remove the oil separator drain tube retainer and remove the crankcase ventilation oil separator.

9. Remove the crankshaft pulley, securing the flywheel with the lock A.60330 / R and unscrewing the ratchet with the A.50121 wrench.

10. Remove the cylinder head cover and the camshaft chain cover. Remove the bolts securing the camshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive shaft.

11. Loosen the cap nut 6 of the chain tensioner, unscrew the nuts 4 fastening it to the cylinder head, remove the tensioner and, unscrewing the bolt 2, remove the shoe 3 of the chain tensioner.

12. Unscrew the chain stop pin, remove the oil pump and camshaft drive sprockets and remove the chain.

13. Loosen the nuts of the studs 4. Having unscrewed the fastening nuts, remove the bearing housing of the studs 4 and, removing the thrust flange 1, carefully so as not to damage the surface of the bearings of the bearing housing 3, take out the camshaft 2.

14. Remove the cylinder head bolts and remove it together with the exhaust manifold and intake manifold.

15. Remove the thrust flange 1 of the oil pump drive shaft and remove the shaft 3 from the cylinder block (2 - flange mounting bolt, 4 - key).

16. Using the universal puller А.40005 / 1/7 from the А.40005 kit, remove the sprocket from the crankshaft.

17. Unscrew the connecting rod bolt nuts, remove the connecting rod caps and carefully remove the pistons with connecting rods through the cylinders.

ATTENTION: When disassembling the engine, mark the piston, connecting rod, main and connecting rod bearing shells so that they can be reinstalled during reassembly. Our article on the selection of a piston for a VAZ 2101 cylinder will suit you.

18. Install the retainer 5 (see Fig. Removing the flywheel), unscrew the bolts 3, remove the washer 4 and the flywheel from the crankshaft, remove the front cover of the clutch housing.

19. Using a pusher А.40006, remove the bearing of the input shaft of the gearbox from its seat in the crankshaft.

20. Remove the crankshaft oil seal retainer.

21. Remove the main bearing cap bolts. Remove them together with the lower liners, remove the crankshaft, upper liners and thrust half rings on the rear support.

Video. Dismantling the engine VAZ 2101

By default, the internal combustion engine 2101 has become the basic option for cars of the VAZ family. The first experiment was modification 21011 - the piston stroke in the engine became shorter, but the cylinder diameter increased. In fact, it was the factory forcing the motor by specialists in order to increase the power, and to save users from the need to carry out overhauls at the same time more often than the specified frequency.

The classic modernization of the internal combustion engine 2101 increased the volume of combustion of the fuel mixture while reducing the piston stroke. Fuel consumption has changed insignificantly, but the engine has become "throttle". The main technical characteristics of variant 21011 are as follows:

combined cycle 9.5 l / 100 km

bearing cover - 80.36 Nm (main) and 50.96 (connecting rod)

cylinder head - two stages 39.2 Nm, 112.7 Nm

A positive feature of the ICE 21011 was the fact that it was developed 4 years later than the base engine model.During this time, the DAAZ plant launched a series of Ozone carburetors, which by default exceeded the performance characteristics of the previously used attachments for preparing the Solex fuel mixture.The management of the manufacturer's plant included the Ozone carburetor in the 21011 package, further increasing the characteristics of this engine.Despite the increased cylinder diameter (79 mm instead of 76 mm), the 21011 motor is overhauled as planned, as indicated by the official manual. All fundamental design features remained the same:

upper positioning of the camshaft of the timing mechanism;

the center-to-center distance of the cylinders for possible boring;

timing chain drive;

slimmed-down cylinder head.

The arrangement of the piston group surpassed the capabilities of the original - the engine became throttle response with virtually no increase in gas mileage.The main disadvantages that the 21011 engine has, it retained from the ICE 2101 sample, from which it arose:

increased noise from the chain drive;

suitability only for rear-wheel drive cars;

periodic adjustment of speed XX;

complex valve adjustment.

Long baffles are used inside the intake manifold, therefore, when the first chamber is throttled, 2 and 3 cylinders experience air-fuel "hunger", and when the flap of the second chamber is opened, on the contrary, 1 and 4 cylinders.However, for its time, 21011 became an advanced technical solution for the domestic auto industry. Knowing the characteristics of the engine, the user does not have any problems, what kind of oil to pour, and what kind of coolant the engine cooling system uses.

On the VAZ of the classic, first model, an in-line, carburetor, four-cylinder engine is installed, the camshaft is located on top. Three types of engine are installed on the vases of the first models, with a volume of 1.2 liters - vaz 2101, 1.3 liters - vaz21011, the difference is that the cylinder block diameter is increased by 3 mm, due to this, the piston and cylinder block differ. The engine cylinders are interconnected in a block cast from cast iron. In general, we can say that vaz engine repair time consuming occupation, but with the appropriate tool and the necessary knowledge, it is not difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence and follow all the instructions.

The pistons are made and cast from an aluminum alloy and are tin plated for better running-in properties.

Camshaft, cast iron, cam surfaces hardened. The shaft is located in an aluminum casing called pastel.

The cylinder head is attached to the block with eleven bolts, the top of the head is closed with an iron cover, also referred to as a valve cover.

The crankshaft is located at the bottom of the engine and is driven by pistons via connecting rods and transfers the force to the camshaft via a chain.

The lubrication system is driven by a gear pump and, under pressure and spray, lubricates the internal rubbing parts of the engine.

The closed crankcase ventilation system provides the exhaust of gases into the cavity of the air filter, further into the engine cylinders for combustion.

The classic forced engine cooling system consists of a liquid pump, a fan, a radiator, a cooling jacket. The circulation of the liquid in the large and small circle is provided by a thermostat.

The power supply system of the VAZ engine consists of a carburetor, a fuel pump, a fine fuel filter.

VAZ 2101 (Lada 1200, Lada 1300, Lada 1200S) or simply “Kopeyka”, “Spear” ... as soon as this most famous and iconic car in the CIS countries was not called. It was created on the basis of the Italian FIAT 124 in 1970 and was produced until 1988.

Subsequently, 2101 was repeatedly refined and gave rise to a whole family of Zhiguli, the next model of which was the VAZ 2103 - a somewhat revised penny.

The characteristics of the VAZ 2101, at the time of its appearance, were very decent, and together with the simplicity of the design and the wide availability of spare parts for the VAZ, made it a mega-popular car. It is not difficult to make sure of this: despite its age, occasionally, this car can even today be found on the streets of our cities.

Along with a penny, a deuce was also produced - VAZ 2102, the body of which is a station wagon. The car itself constructively completely repeats the penny. In the end, 2101 was replaced by a newer and more modern VAZ 2105. This car appeared in 1979 and supplanted its predecessor for 9 long years.

Here you can find complete information about the VAZ 2101 1.2 l and VAZ 21011 1.3 l engines, repair, do-it-yourself tuning, boring, forcing, how to increase engine power, etc.As well as oil for the 2101 engine, power, weight, and so on.
Based on the available information, it is easy to determine which 2101 engine is the most profitable to buy and which one will last as long as possible.

1st generation (1970 - 1988):
VAZ 2101 (64 HP) - 1.2 liters.
VAZ 21011 (69 HP) - 1.3 liters.

Before installing, lubricate the engine cylinders, as well as pistons and oil seals, bearing shells and thrust half rings with engine oil.

Install the main bearing caps in the old block. For this, the cylinder block and the covers belonging to it are marked with the same conditional number (see Fig. Labels on the main bearing caps and the conditional number of the cylinder block and fig. Marking of the size group of cylinders on the block and the conditional number of the cylinder block). Install the thrust half rings with grooves to the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft, and place a steel-aluminum half ring on the front side of the rear support, and a cermet (yellow) one on the back.

The pin hole on the piston is offset by 2 mm, so when installing the pistons in the cylinders, the "P" mark on the pistons must face the front of the engine.

Contents: Prestarting heater Types, features of work Installation of equipment on a car.

Contents: Some nuances Antifreeze heater 220 V Heating device.

Contents: Longfei heaters. Design features Models and their characteristics “Little.

Contents: Types of heaters, features of "Alliance-2-PC" "Alliance" "Alliance -07" "Alliance-08" etc.

Contents: Viscosity Oil type Gear oil Video - What kind of oil is in a car.

Contents: Timing features Stages of work, tools Preparatory work Sequence of adjustment.

Contents: Basic malfunctions What is required for the work Sequence of work.

Contents: Sectional diagram of the VAZ-2101 gearbox Design features A little.

One of the design features of the gas distribution mechanisms of VAZ engines of classic models.

Contents: A little theory When you need to bleed the brakes Tools Work.

Contents: Detonation - what is it Detonation and glow ignition.

Contents: Principle of operation Ignition lock device Malfunctions Removal and installation.

Contents: Advantages of contactless ignition What you need to re-equip the ignition system.

Contents: Preparing a car for the winter period Starting the engine with a carburetor.

Contents: 1. Required tool 2. What is the adjustment for 3.

Contents: Ignition coil Distributor Spark plugs Ignition lock VAZ 2101.

In 1970, the first car of this manufacturer, the VAZ-2101, rolled off the assembly line of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, which later became the basis for the creation of a whole family of models, designated as "Classic".

Popularly nicknamed "Kopeyka", the VAZ-2101 was a really good car, although it was copied from the Fiat 124 (but with strong modifications), as evidenced by the 18-year production period, as well as the fact that there are still a lot of them on the roads. Therefore, to get acquainted with this car, we will make a detailed description of the VAZ-2101.

Let's start with the power plants, which this model had two. The main technical characteristics of 2101 with the first engine are as follows - a 1.2-liter unit capable of producing 64 liters. With. With this power plant, "Kopeyka" was produced until 1983. It was a 4-cylinder engine with in-line pistons and a cylinder diameter of 76 mm, which was installed longitudinally in the engine compartment.

Gas distribution mechanism - with an overhead camshaft and valves, of which there were 2 for each cylinder. The timing was driven by a chain from the crankshaft. The thermal gap was adjusted by changing the length of the rocker adjusting bolts.

Cooling system - liquid, forced. The circulation of the coolant was carried out by means of a centrifugal pump driven by the crankshaft. The system itself had two circles of fluid movement - small and large. The separation between them was carried out by a thermostat.

Supply system - carburetor. The carburetor itself was two-chamber with a sequential throttle valve opening system. Although it had the designation DAAZ, in fact, it was a copy of the Weber carburetor.

Lubrication system - combined. Some of the structural elements of the motor were forcibly lubricated, for which an oil pump was included in the system. But some of the components received splash lubrication.

With regard to speed and dynamic performance, the VAZ-2101 with such an installation could accelerate to a maximum of 137 km / h. At the same time, the car took the mark of 100 km / h in 23 seconds.

Since 1983, the power plant at Kopeyka has been replaced with a more powerful one, which is why the auto index has changed somewhat - VAZ-21011. Conceptually, it was identical to its predecessor, but the characteristics of the 2101 engine have changed. The main changes in the engine affected the cylinder-piston group. By increasing the diameter of the cylinders to 79 mm, it was possible to increase the total volume to 1.3 liters, while the power increased to 69 liters. With. We also changed the power supply system, installing a DAAZ "Ozone" carburetor on this power plant.

With the new engine, the speed characteristic of 2101 increased slightly, the maximum mark for a car began to be 140 km / h, but the dynamics increased more noticeably, a car with a 1.3-liter unit began to take "weaving" in 18 seconds.

Further - the description and technical characteristics of the transmission. For both versions of this car, only one gearbox was provided - a 4-speed, mechanical, longitudinally located. At that time, the characteristics of the VAZ-2101 checkpoint were quite good.

She received rotation from the motor through a "dry" single-plate clutch. In the design of the gearbox, both helical gears with constant engagement (all forward gears) and direct (reverse gear) were used. To ensure smooth shifting, all forward stages were equipped with synchronizers.

The gear ratios of each of the gearbox stages were as follows:

The gearbox was controlled manually by means of a lever mounted on the central tunnel in the cabin.

Rotation from the checkpoint was transmitted to the rear axle by means of a cardan transmission passing under the car in a tunnel specially made in the body.

This element was a structure of two hollow shafts connected by a hinge. To secure the cardan under the car, an intermediate support was additionally used.

The rear axle consisted of a gearbox with a hypoid transmission, a differential and semi-axles. The gear ratio of the gearbox on the VAZ-2101 was 4.3.

Now about the chassis. This car had an independent link suspension in front, the design of which included two wishbones, a spring and a shock absorber on each side. Between themselves, the right and left suspension were connected by an anti-roll bar.

The rear suspension on this car is dependent, consisting of jet rods, springs, buffers and shock absorbers.

The brake system on the VAZ-2101 is double-circuit, with a hydraulic drive, equipped with a vacuum booster. The presence of two circuits made it possible to preserve the ability of the car to brake even in the event of a breakdown of one of the circuits.

Front disc brakes were used on the Kopeyka.

Drum mechanisms were installed at the back.

The parking brake is mechanical, with a cable drive and impact on the rear mechanisms.

The steering of the car consisted of a mechanism, the main element of which was a worm gear.

He acted on a system of levers, through which the force from the gearbox was transmitted to the steering knuckles.

This type of chassis was used in the entire Classics family.

The VAZ-2101 is a sedan, so the body scheme had a three-volume layout - the engine compartment was located in front, in the middle there was a cab for 5 people, and there was a luggage compartment in the back. All three parts of the body were separated by partitions. The total length of the car was 4073 mm, width - 1611 mm with a height of 1382 mm. The ground clearance of the car was 170 mm, and the weight of the car was 955 kg.

The engine compartment is closed, for which there was a hood.

In the front of the car there were elements of light and sound signaling, headlights, a decorative radiator grille and a bumper. The front part of the VAZ-21011 model differed from its predecessor in a slightly different grille and the presence of air vents in the lower part of the body.

Access to the salon was provided by 4 doors. In the front part of the cabin, on the left, the controls for the car were installed - a steering wheel and three pedals, as well as a control panel, and a gearshift lever was located in the center in front.

The front seats are separate, folding, between them there was a hand brake lever. The back seat is solid.

The luggage compartment is also closed with a lid. It was intended for the transportation of goods, in addition, it contained tools and a spare wheel and a fuel tank with a volume of 39 liters.

Outside, at the end of the trunk, the rear elements of the light and sound alarm were installed - parking lights, turn signals, brake lights. Model 21011 was additionally equipped with a reversing light.