DIY 21213 engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself 21213 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Before disassembling, we clean the engine from dirt.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the three bolts attaching the front axle gearbox bracket to the cylinder block.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the four nuts securing the left support bracket of the power unit to the cylinder block.

... and remove the bracket assembly with a pillow.

After removing the brackets on their fastening pins and threaded holes in the cylinder block, we mount the dismantling stand plate and fix the engine on the stand. Remove the clutch (see here)

Remove the flywheel and clutch housing cover (see here).

Using the "13" head, we unscrew the four nuts securing the bracket for the right support of the power unit to the cylinder block.

... and remove the bracket with a pillow.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the three bolts attaching the generator bracket to the cylinder block.

Using round-nose pliers, we loosen the clamp of attachment to the outlet pipe of the heater radiator of the coolant outlet hose from the throttle assembly (VAZ-21214 engine) or from the carburetor heating unit (VAZ-21213).

We remove the hose from the branch pipe of the outlet tube.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the flange of the heater radiator outlet pipe to the coolant pump housing.

Unscrew the nut that secures the tube bracket to the exhaust manifold (see here).

... remove the heater radiator outlet pipe and its sealing gasket.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the three bolts securing the coolant pump to the cylinder block.

... and remove the coolant pump assembly and its gasket.

On the injection engine, dismantle the cylinder head assembly with the receiver, intake pipe and exhaust manifold (see here).

Video (click to play).

On a carburetor engine, remove the cylinder head assembly with the carburetor, intake pipe and exhaust manifold (see here).

Remove the oil separator of the crankcase ventilation system, the oil pan and the oil pump (see the relevant sections).

Using the "10" head, unscrew the six bolts securing the rear crankshaft oil seal holder to the cylinder block.

We pry the rear oil seal holder with a screwdriver for the tides.

... and remove the holder assembly with an oil seal.

From the grooves of the oil seal holder, remove two special bolts (with square heads) securing the clutch housing cover.

Remove the rear oil seal holder gasket.

Remove the camshaft drive cover, dismantle the chain, crankshaft sprocket, oil pump drive shaft, chain tensioner shoe (see the relevant sections).
Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for the drain pipe of the oil separator of the crankcase ventilation system.

Using the "14" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the connecting rod cover (the piston should be in the BDC).

Knocking on the side surfaces of the lid with a hammer with a plastic striker.

We take out the lower shell of the connecting rod bearing from the cover.

Leaning on the ends of the rods of the connecting rod bolts, we move the lower head of the connecting rod from the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft.

Resting the wooden handle of the hammer on the connector of the lower connecting rod head, push the piston into the cylinder.

... and remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder.

We take out the upper bearing shell from the connecting rod head.

In the same way, we remove the pistons with connecting rods from other cylinders.

We clamp the connecting rod in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

With your fingers, gently (without applying great effort) unclench the lock of the upper compression ring.

... and remove the upper compression ring.

... lower compression ring.

... two discs of an oil ring.

Remove the oil scraper ring expander.

For removing the piston from the connecting rod.

... pry the piston pin retaining ring with a screwdriver.

... and remove it from the annular groove of the piston.

In the same way, we take out the second retaining ring of the finger.

... we remove it from the hole in the piston.

Remove the piston from the upper connecting rod head.

If some parts of the connecting rod-piston group are not damaged and slightly worn, then they can be used again. Therefore, when disassembling, we mark the parts in order to install them in the old cylinder.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing cap.

Remove the main bearing cover.

We take out the lower main bearing shell from the cover.

In the same way, remove four more main bearing caps.

We take out the crankshaft from the cylinder block.

We take out persistent half rings from the grooves of the rear support of the cylinder block.

We take out the upper liners of the crankshaft main bearings from the cylinder block supports.

After disassembling the engine, rinse thoroughly with gasoline and clean the parts from carbon deposits to check their technical condition.

To determine cylinder wear.

... We measure the cylinder diameter in four belts and two planes (parallel and perpendicular to the crankshaft axis) with an internal gage.

Cylinder measurement scheme: A and B - measurement directions; 1,2, 3 and 4 - belt numbers

Main dimensions of the cylinder block

To determine the wear of the piston skirt.

... with a micrometer we measure the diameter in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the piston pin, at a distance of 55 mm from the piston crown.

We measure the diameters with a micrometer.

... and main journals of the crankshaft.

Permissible runout of the main surfaces of the crankshaft

We grind the crankshaft journals to the nearest repair size if their wear or ovality is greater than 0.03 mm, as well as if there are seizures and risks on the journals.
(read also the article "Crankshaft - Grinding or Repair")

After grinding the crankshaft journals.

... it is necessary to remove the plugs of the oil channels.

... Thoroughly rinse the channels to remove abrasive residues and blow with compressed air.
Grinding of the crankshaft journals, removal and installation of new plugs is carried out at the service station.

We assemble the engine in reverse order.

We install new crankshaft bearing shells of nominal or repair size (after grinding the journals).

In the first, second, fourth and fifth bearings of the cylinder block, we install the upper main bearing shells with grooves.

... and in the third support there is a liner without a groove on the inner surface (the same as in the main bearing caps).

Lubricate the main bearing shells with engine oil and put the crankshaft in the supports.

We insert persistent half rings lubricated with engine oil into the grooves of the fifth support.

On the front side of the fifth support, we install a steel-aluminum half-ring, and on the back side - a cermet (yellow).

The surfaces of the semi-rings with an anti-friction coating (grooves are made on them) must face the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft.

We install the main bearing caps in accordance with the marks on their outer surface (counting is carried out from the side of the camshaft drive).

In this case, the locks of the upper and lower shells of each main bearing must be located on one side.

We tighten the bolts of the main bearing caps to the prescribed torque (see here).

Pistons for cylinders are selected by classes.

Marking of the size class of the cylinders on the block

The cylinder diameter class, designated by letters, is stamped on the lower plane of the cylinder block (the plane of the oil pan attachment).

The diameter classes of the piston skirt and the bores for the piston pin are marked on the piston crown.

When installing the piston in the cylinder, the arrow on the piston crown must point towards the camshaft drive.

When assembling the connecting rod-piston group, it is necessary that the piston pin, lubricated with engine oil, enters the hole of the piston or connecting rod with the effort of the hand and does not fall out of them when the finger is vertical.

To check the clearance in the piston ring lock, insert the ring into the cylinder and align the ring with the piston bottom.

Using a set of flat feelers, we check the clearance in the piston ring lock.

Lubricate the grooves on the pistons with engine oil.

We install rings on the pistons.

Install the lower compression ring with the groove ("scraper") down.

If the “TOP” or “TOP” mark is applied to the ring near the lock, then set the ring with the mark up.
The rings should turn freely in the grooves without jamming.

We arrange the rings as follows:

the lock of the upper compression ring is oriented at an angle of 45 ° to the axis of the piston ring;
the lock of the lower compression ring - at an angle of 180 ° to the axis of the lock of the upper ring;
oil scraper ring lock - at an angle of 90 ° to the axis of the upper compression ring lock (the expander joint is located on the side opposite to the lock).

Before installing the ShPG parts, we lubricate the cylinders, pistons with rings and connecting rod bearings with engine oil.

Before installing the piston in the cylinder, we put an adjustable mandrel on the piston.

... and, tightening the mandrel, squeeze the piston rings.

Install the piston with the connecting rod into the cylinder.

Resting the hammer handle on the piston bottom, push it into the cylinder.

When installing the connecting rod cap, the number on the connecting rod and the cap must match and be on one side of the connecting rod.

Tighten the connecting rod nuts with the prescribed torque (see here).

Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

Replace gaskets and gaskets with new ones.

When installing the flywheel, we orient it so that the mounting (conical hole), located on the rear plane of the flywheel next to the ring gear, is located opposite the connecting rod journal of the fourth cylinder.

They removed the cylinder head.

Cylinder block guide

They began to remove the cylinder block, for a long time they could not get it from there, the manual transmission guides dried up. One of the attempts to get the cylinder block.

Then they began to disassemble it in parts and spare parts. Removing the clutch basket and frontal.

"Fitting" the end clearance

I hope this small instruction will help you repair the "heart" of your "iron horse", besides, the photos presented are no worse than any video illustrating the whole process of replacing the piston and piston rings of the VAZ 21213.
Good luck on the road!

Repair motor "Zhiguli": the main concepts

Many car owners, especially beginners, do not quite correctly imagine what is repair engine VAZ 2107, or at least some gasoline engine, for example, VAZ 21213, which is called "overhaul", Or overhaul. Let us explain this using an ordinary “life situation”.

Your car is not new. You drove it, it "ate" excess oil and gasoline, engine had a bad high-torque, noisy. Your car could not climb a long, steep hill in 4th gear. I had to switch to the third one, all the road users following you first signaled for you, then overtook you.

And oh so - then you decided to "save" on the purchase of engine oil. Video and guidance on removing and replacing the cabin filter for vaz 2110, 2111, 2112 - do it yourself car maintenance and repair. The path is not short, and the oil decreases very tangibly. You have purchased an available oil on the market, filled it in engine and forgot. Video guide to removing and replacing the ignition lock Audi 100 (audi 100 c4) - how to make auto repair with your own hands - videos and articles. But on the way I had to skid. Engine began to overheat, evening time, the place is wild. You have a "classic", not a VAZ 21213... There is no handout. You jerked off the gas pedal, and at first speed, finally, left. On the way to the house, the knocking intensified, the oil pressure lamp began to burn constantly, I had to go on "suction", and when entering the garage, the car completely stalled.

In the workshop, it was found that:

the camshafts are scarred and chipped, with coarse burrs.
The splines on the shaft of the oil pump are cut off almost completely, while the entire crankcase and filter of the oil pump is clogged with shavings and metal debris.

The following happened: during the forced operation of a hot engine, the engine oil lost its lubricating properties, and intensively rubbing parts instead of lubrication were worn off, and at the end engine even "jammed".

On the repair significant funds have been spent. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair on a vaz 2109. The following was done:

head replaced cylinder block,
the chain is tightened,
new oil pump delivered,
completely changed oil with engine flushing,
replaced the oil filter,
many gaskets had to be changed,
the ignition moment was re-set, at the same time new high-voltage ignition wires were purchased (the wire from the coil was supplied from VAZ 21213);
new candles were installed;
replaced the generator relay;
timing chain tightened, tensioner and damper adjusted.

Should we consider that a major overhaul has been carried out?

The answer is no. Do-it-yourself gas stove repair | building. Just as the machine before “ate bad oil a lot and well,” so it will consume good oil on an increased scale. Just as she did not ride up the hill before the accident, so she also drives badly after repairs.

Capital car engine repair is the one repair, which is carried out due to the loss of thrust and engine power - namely, a decrease in torque,

What are the ways to identify the loss of power? Simple ways are as follows:

Excessive consumption of oil and gasoline;
Decrease in acceleration dynamics with a well-adjusted carburetor, this applies to all "classics" and to VAZ 21213;
The appearance of black smoke and soot in the exhaust, traces of oily soot at the end of the exhaust pipe.

What can simulate the need for a major overhaul?

After watching the video on YouTube, I decided to repair DIY engine... Collected for the first time in a week.

Sometimes the head bolts are not tightened correctly after opening, as a result of which a skew is created;

In the event that the gasket slightly does not correspond to the dimensions of the cylinder, for example, a gasket from VAZ is supplied 21213.

Loss of power is a consequence of incomplete adherence of the pistons to the cylinder walls, or a decrease in compression. It is the reduction in compression, wear of the piston rings and an increase in the diameters of the working volumes of the cylinders that require major overhaul.

Good compression is especially important in low gears when engine develops great power. This allows, for example, VAZ 21213 overcome off-road.

Remember: the main thing in engine overhaul is repair cylinder block.

Repair stages cylinder block the following:

Troubleshooting - or measuring the compression number in each cylinder;
Disassembly of the block and careful measurement of planes and dimensions;
Boring a block for new dimensions, and honing surfaces - or changing the geometry of cylinders;
Dimension check, surface machining, grinding and honing of the crankshaft (main and brass journals) - this and the previous paragraphs consist of overhaul in its essence;
Balancing the crankshaft with the flywheel and clutch basket;
Selection of new piston rings for new sizes;
Assembly, performance testing and measurement of compression after repair.

For those who decided to do it on their own overhaul do it yourselfso that only spare parts are bought (since for just one job in a car service they will take more than a dozen thousand rubles), we will briefly describe only the disassembly and the extraction process cylinder block (the approach is practically the same for VAZ 2107 and VAZ 21213):

Only now, when the garage has become like a spare parts warehouse, can the crankshaft pulley mount, clutch housing screws, large nuts (2) from the engine mountings be unscrewed, and, with the help of a partner, can be hung on a beam, gently raised above the engine compartment and removed engine.

After that, the clutch is removed, the oil filter, the flywheel, the timing chain, the crankshaft star are also removed, and only after that you can begin to assess the condition of the crankshaft, its necks, liners, and also start working with the cylinder block, evaluating the future overhaul.

In the event that you are not afraid of even the preparatory volume of work, then we can safely recommend that you carry out overhaul engine do it yourself.

In addition, you must find a service station where you will be boring. cylinder block, will grind the crankshaft, perform press fitting and other operations.

Thus, without serious auto repair shops equipped with machine tools, it is still impossible to complete a major repair do it yourself by oneself.

Greetings, dear car owners. I offer you to watch the video instruction on the topic of Assembling the VAZ 21213 engine. Read carefully the naual for the video.

Instruction: Assembling the VAZ 21213 engine In this video, the light is shed not so much on the assembly, it is approximately similar, so much on the intricacies of the assembly process. What procedures should be carried out with the motor parts before installation. Good luck on the road and all the best.

Engine problems - what you need to know

The main disease of the VAZ-21213 engine is the carburetor. When using low quality fuel - and such a problem occurs at our gas stations regularly - the carburetor is constantly clogged. If fuel lines and filters are clogged, simply clean them and install new filters if necessary. But if you do not pay attention to this problem for a long time, then very soon the fuel pump will fail and then you will have to change it.

Another problem, and almost impossible to eliminate, is engine overheating. The reason for this is the unsuccessful design of the cooling system, or rather the blowing system. This is especially noticeable on engines that have undergone overhaul, since due to cylinder bore, the baffle becomes thinner and heat transfer increases.You can fight it only by upgrading the airflow system and installing either an additional fan, or replacing it with a more efficient one. But it is impossible not to pay attention to this problem - even novice motorists know what long-term engine overheating is fraught with.

Another problem that requires a VAZ 21213 repair is vibration. Its cause is the failure of one of the transmission elements. There may be several reasons for this:

Violation of the centering of the transfer case;
Souring of the propeller shaft cross;
Biting the SHRUS promval;
Wear of the elastic clutch of the flush shaft;
Failure of suspension elements.

As long as all transmission and chassis assemblies are adjusted, vibrations are invisible. But it is worth at least one of the parts to fail - it is immediately felt.

Among other things, the VAZ-21213 has a characteristic disease - a failure of the fifth gear gears. The fact is that this box is a modernized version of the old four-speed gearbox. There is a big flaw here - the ill-conceived design of the lubrication system leads to oil starvation of the fifth gears and they wear out much faster than others - literally after 30-40 thousand kilometers.

There is a joke that the Niva's body begins to rust even before it is bought. This is, of course, an exaggeration, but with the anti-corrosion treatment of metal it is simply a disaster - it really starts to rust very quickly, especially in those places where there is active contact with water: sills, rear door, bumper attachment points, fenders, and so on.

In order to delay the appearance of holes in the body to the maximum, it is necessary to carry out anti-corrosion treatment every year. Considering how we struggle with road icing in winter, the bottom can burn out in literally a year, if it is not processed.

Also, pay close attention to the drainage and ventilation holes - if they become clogged, then moisture and condensation begins to accumulate inside.

If you can repair the VAZ 21213 with your own hands, then reinforce the floor with an additional metal plate in the place where the distributor is attached - due to increased vibration, this area is subject to increased loads and can simply fall off.

Video about body and engine repair VAZ 21213

Video (click to play).